Wine Reviews: Holiday Treats

It’s been a long year, and this is a very different holiday season. But I hope you and yours are safe, healthy, and have an enjoyable holiday season, whatever you are celebrating.

In the spirit of the holidays, I’ve gathered up a collection of wines from all over the world that could add some cheer in the coming winter.

From one of the brightest, most complex Soaves I’ve tried in a long time, to Quilceda Creek’s second wine and the new vintage of Napa’s Cardinale, I’ve found some beauties. Merry Edwards’ first vintage of a Sauvignon Blanc dessert wine is absolutely delicious, and worth checking out, especially if you (like me) are a fan of their classic Sauv Blanc.

There’s some Champagne and other bubbles, of course. And if you’re not up for opening a full bottle, this report also includes several 375ml examples that are widely available in the U.S.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White wines

2018 Pieropan Soave Classico Calvarino - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
SRP: $40
Medium yellow color. Plush but inviting nose of peach, guava, lime, topped in hay, white flowers, mint and chalk dust. Creamy texture on the palate is beautiful, while crisp acidity keeps it focused and bright, backed up with these plump peach and yellow apple fruit, drizzled with lie. The complexity here is great, with mineral, chalk, sandstone, hay and lemon verbena. Zest, focused, complex, stony, with a long, harmonious finish. This is killer single-vineyard Soave. (91 points)

2019 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $13/375ml
Light yellow color. Lively aromas of lemon, guava and ruby red grapefruit, with subtle herbal, peppery tones, white flowers in the mix as well. Ripe and plush on the palate with flavors of grapefruit, white peach and guava, accented with daisies and honeysuckle. A ripe and spicy feel but balanced and nuanced as well. (88 points)

2018 William Hill Winery Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $13/375ml
Rich yellow color. Aromas of honeyed pears and apples, cinnamon crumb cake, but also some lively lemon and chalky tones. Creamy, juicy texture on the palate, moderating acidity, with flavors of yellow apples and lemon curd. Notes of honey, cinnamon and almond are woven in well, and notes of yellow flowers and chalk add vibrancy. Forward but harmonious, and a solid value Napa Chardonnay. (89 points)

2019 Girasole Vineyards Pinot Blanc - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $14
Light yellow color. Nose of white peaches and yellow plums, along with spicy oregano and mint, honey and clover. Juicy, peachy and tropical on the palate, but fresh and crisp throughout. Yellow apples, white peaches, lemon and papaya, this is a juicy but zippy wine tossed with cucumber slices, floral perfume and honeysuckle. There’s a lot going on here for the price. (88 points)

Sparkling, rosé & dessert wines

N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Extra-Brut Rosé Première Cuvée - France, Champagne
SRP: $70
Light salmon color. So bright and brisk with the nosewith wild raspberry and strawberry, along with watermelon rind, topped in crushed shells, chalk dust, hints of white pepper and tomato leaf. Precise and focused on the palate with racy acidity and bright appeal, along with solid textural depth. Grapefruit, strawberry, raspberry and red apple peel fruit mix well with chalk, talc and crushed shell tones. Notes of white pepper and ginger add complexity to this brisk, delightful rosé. Mostly Pinot Noir from Verzenay, Bouzy, Mailly or Les Riceys, along with Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs, with a 6 g/l dosage. (91 points)

2019 Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu'ile de Saint-Tropez Côtes de Provence Fleur de Mer Rosé - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $13/375ml
Deep copper color. Bright and chalky on the nose with sea salt and dandelion over top strawberry, watermelon and white cherry fruit. Fresh and plump texture on the palate, but bright acidity, with flavors of white peach and guava. Notes of yellow flowers, green tea and honey mix in well. Fruity but vibrant, a fun, versatile rosé. (87 points)

N.V. La Marca Prosecco - Italy, Veneto / Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Prosecco
SRP: $11/375ml
Light yellow color. Nose pops with peaches, limes, honeysuckle, and crushed sweet tarts. Light and fresh with moderate acidity and flavors of peaches in honey, candied orange peel, shaved lemon. Nots of floral perfume and crushed sweet tarts mix with a hint of mint. Fun, straightforward, crowd-friendly stuff. (85 points)

N.V. J Vineyards & Winery Brut Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Light salmon color. Aromas of strawberries and watermelon, McIntosh apple, with chalky, seashell tones, spicy oregano and wildflowers. Fine bubbles on the palate, a round and tropical feel but fresh, too. Red apples, apricot, strawberry, mixed in with green and white teas, talc, mint. Juicy and fun but shows a good amount of complexity as well. 57% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay, 6% Pinot Meunier, 12 g/l dosage. (88 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc Late Harvest - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $48/375ml
Rich yellow color. An explosion of peachy goodness on the nose with guava, orange marmalade, candied ginger, white tea and honey. Plush texture on the palate, with moderating acidity, a rich and honeyed texture, with guava and orange marmalade, yellow plums. Delicious tones of candied ginger, almond cake, unctuous yet shows vibrancy underneath. This is a delicious and complex wine, and the first harvest of this noble rot Sauv Blanc from the Maefield Vineyard Merry planted in 2015. An exceptional holiday choice or bury it in the cellar. (93 points)

Red wines

2016 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
SRP: $65
Medium ruby color. The nose shows suave cherries, red currants, topped in a complex host of leather, pepper, grilled steak, clove, with underlying mushroom and rose petal tones. Medium/full-bodied with solid, grippy tannins and racy acidity. A deep but tart core of black cherries and red currants, chewy, ripe but fresh, and topped in elements of menthol, tar, smoky earth, pepper, mushroom and rose petals. This needs at least a few years or a good decant, but is balanced well and has a lot to offer. (90 points)

2017 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir Multi-Appellation - USA, California
SRP: $13/375
Medium ruby color. Aromas of jammy strawberries and cherry pie, cola and rhubarb on top. On the palate, this has velvety tannins, medium-low acidity, and plenty of juicy fruit (raspberries, red plums, cherry cheesecake). Notes of cola, caramel, rose petals, even some earth and herbal tones keep this interesting. Fun accessible, value-driven stuff. Fruit sourced from Monterey, Santa Barbara and Sonoma Counties. (86 points)

2017 Cardinale - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $325
Deep purple color. The nose shows waves of fresh, deep, tangy black currants and cherries, tossed with warm clay, tobacco, potting soil, roasted chestnut, oregano and hot chocolate – it’s a fascinating, diverse, shifting display of aromas. On the palate, this is full but fresh, structured but smooth tannins, and the acidity keeps it fresh and balanced. Plums, cherries, currants, deep but vibrant fruit laced with tobacco, mint, anise, cigar box, tobacco and coffee. Underlying graphite and mineral tones add this integrated, profound feel. This will do excellent things over the next five to 10 years. (96 points)

2017 Barra of Mendocino Petite Sirah - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
SRP: $22
Medium purple color. Boisterous aromas of blackberry and blueberry jam, with smoky earth, dark chocolate, clove and violet petals. Juicy and fun on the palate, warm and inviting with smooth tannins, medium acidity keeps it active. Plummy, blackberry puree and roasted fig tones, mixed with coffee, rocky earth, tilled soil and dark chocolate shavings. Deep but not heavy, stays fresh. Solid value here for near-term wintertime drinking. All Petite Sirah, 14.5% alcohol. (88 points)

2017 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir Annapolis Ridge Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $110
Light purple color. Deep and saucy aromas of black cherries, dark plums, with lots of interesting mesquite, black pepper, rose petals and leather tones. Full, polished on the palate with velvety tannins and medium acidity that balances the deep, ripeness of the black cherries and plum cake fruit. Violets, gravelly earth, lots of concentration here with tones of black pepper glaze, dark chocolate and mesquite. A Pinot for Syrah-lovers for sure, and this needs serious time or a decant, but it has a lot going on. (91 points)

2017 Quilceda Creek CVR Columbia Valley - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $70
Medium purple color. Deep and saucy aromatic display of red and black currants and cherries, laced with mesquite, tobacco, rocky earth, tar and coffee tones. Full-bodied, suave but structured, juicy but shows vibrant acidity. A smooth, deep yet tangy display of currant and black cherries, with a complex mix of graphite, loamy earth and rocky tones, iron, tobacco, with these nuances of cocoa powder and vanilla. This could use a few years or give it a really good decant if drinking soon. Cabernet Sauvignon with 3% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc, aged 18 months in 70% new French oak. A delicious, less expensive way to experience the Quilceda Creek goodness. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Alentejo's Exciting Wines and Sustainability Efforts

I’m thankful and privileged to be healthy and safe during these pandemic times. But, like many millions of people, my travel plans for this year have evaporated.

For my five-year-old daughter’s birthday this spring, I was thrilled to bring my family to Portugal. It is a country whose culture, wine, waves, food and natural bounty fascinate me to no end. When I’m there, I often think, more than any other place I’ve visited: I should have been born here. While that trip is dashed, I can’t wait to get back when it’s safe to do so.

When I visited the region of Alentejo three years ago, I found an overwhelming amount of diverse and high-quality wines and producers. It was such a treat to dig deep into the region’s tradition of wines fermented in amphora, explore the history and diversity of the region’s adopted red grape Alicante Bouschet, and I was impressed to learn about the exciting white wines produced there as well.

As an outdoors, nature and wildlife enthusiast, it was sometimes hard to think about wine while I was traveling through Alentejo — there was just so many rolling hills, forests, fields, and natural beauty going by outside my window. With relatively low population density, large amounts of uncultivated land, and ever presence of the famous cork forests, the region offers a lot of unspoiled natural beauty and thriving wildlife. Among the group I traveled with was Wines of Alentejo’s U.S. director Tiago Caravana, who, in addition to his wine career, is an incredible wildlife photographer, and was always on point with my random questions about the region’s diverse mammals and birds of prey.

So, I hopped at the chance to attend a webinar with Tiago and others in the region’s trade group this summer. We tasted what I consider to be some really solid examples of what the region can produce, and we spent a lot of time discussing the sustainability efforts of the regional winegrowing commission. Lots of Alentejo producers have been taking sustainable vineyard and winery practices serious for many years, but in 2014, the regional winegrowing commission created a voluntary program called Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Program.

This program is designed to improve environmental, social and economic welfare in the region, specifically focusing on issues like water control, pest management, energy conservation, and packaging. Several of the wineries represented in the tasting focused on their attempts at improving sustainability by using sheep to reduce cover crops, utilizing bat boxes to fight pesky insects, increasing use of solar power, reducing bottle weight, etc.

But the proof is in the bottle, and these wines offer a good window into Alentejo’s ancient and thriving wine culture. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2018 Herdade do Esporão “Colheita” Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $16
Medium yellow color. Generous aromas of nectarine, peaches, cantaloupe, with honeycomb, hay, nougat and floral perfume. Creamy texture on the palate with crisp acidity, deep but balanced with lovely yellow plums, apricot and orange peel. Juicy, deep but bright with notes of sea salt, chalk, toasted almond, honey, hay and candle wax. Expressive, complex, everything is lined up wonderfully in this crazy value of a white wine. Antao Vas, Viosinho, Alvarinho and other white grapes, fermented partially in concrete, aged on the lees for four months. (90 points)

2018 Casa Agricola Alexandre Relvas “Sao Miguel do Sul” - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $12
Medium purple color. Aromas of jammy raspberry, blackberries, with vanilla, grilled herbs, pepper and cola. Full-bodied, velvety tannins, medium/low acidity. A soft, accessible, chewy feel with sweet plum and raspberry jams, along with some cocoa, cola and tobacco. Fun, easy-drinking stuff but some freshness and complexity as well. Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira and Cabernet Sauvignon. (86 points)

2018 Herdade dos Grous Tinto - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
SRP: $19
Light purple color. On the nose, with jammy raspberries, strawberry, with smoky earth, mint, charcoal, rose petals. Bold but surprisingly fresh on the palate with velvety tannins and plenty of raspberry, black cherry and plum jam fruit. Notes of spicy tobacco, earth, mint, cocoa powder make this a dynamic wine for the price. Fresh but complex, delightfully grill-out friendly. 35% Alicante Bouschet, 35% Aragonez with Touriga Nacional and Syrah, aged nine months in French oak. (88 points)

2017 Herdade dos Coelheiros “Coelheiros” - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. Rich, suave aromas of black currants, black cherries, roasted plums, with smoky earth, cocoa, ginger snaps and pepper. Full-bodied with velvety tannins, medium acidity keeps it lively. Suave blackberry and roasted fig fruit mixes with notes of pencil lead, cocoa, coffee, vanilla. Fresh despite the generosity of fruit. Could age but great now for grilling. Real good stuff for Zinfandel fans looking to branch out. Aragonez and Alicante Bouschet, aged 12 months in French oak. (88 points)

2014 Carmim Reguengos “Garrafeira dos Sócios” - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo, Reguengos
SRP: $48
Medium purple color. Complex aromas of tart cherries and blackberries, with deep green and black olive tones, tilled earth, anise and coffee grounds. Full-bodied, with dusty tannins, medium acidity, a structured but lively feel. Cherries and blackberries mix well with complex notes of anise, leather, charcoal, dusty earth, mineral and rocky elements. This is in a great place right now, and just goes to show how well Alentejo wines can age. Alicante Bouschet with 20% Touriga Nacional and 15% Tinta Caiada, aged in French and American oak for 14 months. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Book Review: The Wines of South Africa

In these times of pandemic and uncertainty, I’ve found some respite in reading travel books. Being stuck at home for months on end, I have spent a lot of time letting my mind wander as I plan and lust for travel in for post-pandemic times.

As a lover of South Africa and its wines, I was excited to read through Jim Clarke’s new book “The Wines of South Africa.” It has now been six years since my first and only trip to South Africa, where I spent three weeks checking out my three favorite things: waves, wine and wildlife. While reading Jim’s helpful book, I found myself revisiting so many amazing memories, and wishing to make more during future South Africa trips.

Jim Clarke is a writer, educator and all-around South African wine guru. He first traveled to South Africa in 2006, one what would be one of many trips as he delved into the people and places in this dynamic wine scene. Since 2013, he has worked as U.S. marketing manager for Wines of South Africa, the trade group that organizes and supports exports of South African wine. I’ve met Jim at trade events over the years — he always in his dapper fedora hat, me always in my newsie-style cap — and he is such a knowledgeable, personable, genuine guy, and I’m not sure there’s anyone better to write this book.

In the introduction, Clarke reflects on being impressed with the diversity and potential of the South African wine scene during his first trip: “this was not simply an emerging wine industry, but an industry reborn.”

“Since around 2008, more and more producers have been allowing the country’s terroir to represent itself unmasked and without affectation,” Clarke writes. “The peaks of South African wine are higher, and the clumsy wines of the past are bygones, or at least as rare as they are in other modernized wine-producing countries.”

The first chunk of the book is a fascinating history of winemaking in South Africa. It is such a complex and complicated history, that I won’t attempt to summarize portions of it here. Suffice it to say, from 1659 onward, Clarke offers a lot to learn, and he does a great job weaving this history into the complex issues facing contemporary South Africa.

In a section devoted to “transformation and other contemporary issues,” Clarke is frank and sensitive in his discussion of the lasting effects of racism and apartheid on the wine industry. He writes of South African winemaking being “deeply tied together with the country’s broader history, which embodies both a pioneering spirit and deeply colonial, racist attitudes and policies,” and highlights the importance of an honest discussion of the country’s past in order to make change and progress.

The section on the “structures, regulations and institutions of South African wine” is a helpful analysis of the complexities and unique elements of the country’s wine industry. Far more than a dry recitation of rules, Clarke provides a lot of details that would be helpful for folks in the trade.

I really geeked out on the geography and climate portion of the book, which is detailed and great for reference. The vast differences in regional topography, soil and climates in South Africa has long fascinated me, and it makes for interesting reading.

After a summary of the leading grape varieties and wine styles, Clarke moves into profiles of different winegrowing regions. Unlike a lot of straight-up reference books or tourist guides, Clarke this isn’t an exhaustive list of producers or places to visit. For each region, he summarizes what makes the region unique, how its history relates to the current wine scene, and highlights some of the major players. It was a lot of fun revisiting all of my favorite producers, but I also learned a lot and heard many producers for the first time. If you’re looking to dig further into South African wines and, like me, prefer having something tangible to refer to – this paperback is a solid.

South African wine has been on a long, upward hike toward more global recognition, and this book chronicles how we got to this point in the life of South African wine. It’s definitely worth a read for any fans, anyone planning travel, or anyone in the wine trade who wants to hone their knowledge on South Africa’s awesome wines.

“The Wines of South Africa” by Jim Clarke
U.S. paperback price: $39.95.
Publisher: Infinite Ideas
Available at Amazon Books and Barnes & Noble
Released July 2020

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Lots of California New Releases

This week I’m back with another roundup of wines from California, including some new-to-me producers, and some I’ve known and loved for many years.

In the latter category, Smith Madrone’s new Chardonnay and Cab are true to their roots, delivering complex, intriguing, delicious Spring Mountain wines whose price points still baffle me.

Louis Martini’s iconic Monte Rosso vineyard, and their Lot 1 Cabernet, are the type of wines I’d want to cellar or enjoy some cold evening this winter.

St. Helena’s Battuello comes through with some interesting offerings from their estate vineyards, which dates back five generations, when Matteo Battuello established it in 1909. The two Valdiguiés that are so delicious, and their Petit Verdot is a stunner.

A delicious, screaming value of a Grenache Blanc and some Sauvignon Blancs round out this report. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Whites and Rosés

2019 Rombauer Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California
SRP: $24
Light yellow color. Aromas boast lemon, apricot, green apples, with some green onion, mint and honeysuckle as well. Fleshy texture on the palate, nice creaminess with racy acidity, well-focused. A fruit salad of ruby red grapefruit, lemon slices, white peach, with some chalky, rocky, tones. Notes of honeysuckle, mint and sea salt. Juicy and fun but expressive and fresh as well. 64% Napa fruit, the rest from Sonoma, fermented mostly in stainless steel with some old French oak and concrete. (89 points)

2019 Stonestreet Sauvignon Blanc Cougar Ridge - USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $35
Light yellow color. Aromas of grapefruit, lemon and papaya with mountain stream, whipped honey and white flowers. Crisp but creamy on the palate with a stony, bright feel that balances well with juicy, fleshy texture, but it stays balanced throughout. Yellow plums, papaya, lime, mixed with chalk, mineral undertones and creamy, honeyed elements. A lot going on here, sort of like a bunch of different SB styles rolled into one, and it is done really well. (91 points)

2018 La Pelle Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Pale lemon color. Crunchy, inviting aromas of green and yellow apples, topped in lemongrass, mint, and a good dose of sea salt. Precision guides the palate; this is crisp, crunchy, with slight creamy tones and solid depth. Lemon, green apple and kiwi fruit blends well with saline, chalk, white floral tones. Lovely depth, minerality, focus. No gimmicks here, just bright, clear, complex, beautiful Napa Sauvignon Blanc. (92 points)

2018 Priest Ranch Grenache Blanc - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $22
A fascinating pale copper color. So bright on the nose, with this burst of lime, kiwi and green apple, met with sliced cucumber, flower stems, oyster shells and brine, chalk dust. Gorgeous texture on the palate, lush but precise, with focused acidity on a medium/full-bodied frame. Crunchy green apples, limes, kiwi and orange peel – such crisp and delicious fruit. Mouthwatering and vibrant, with notes of saline, crushed shells, floral perfume, white tea. This is rocking, especially if you’ve tired of heavier California white Rhone wines. From a 1,250-foot elevation vineyard all stainless steel, native yeasts and eight months of lees aging. For $22? Absurd. (91 points)

2018 Chalone Vineyard Chardonnay - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone
SRP: $30
Medium yellow color. Delightful nose of lemon curd, orange peel, crunchy apricot, along with notes of peanut shell, white tea, chalk dust, perfume and honey. On the palate, this shows a plump but tangy fruit (nectarine, lemon, apricot) on a frame of precise, focused acidity. Pretty notes of honey, almond skin, hay and ginger complement the stony mineral and sea salt notes. Pure, vibrant, complex – it really doesn’t get much better for a California Chardonnay at this price point. (89 points)

2018 Ram's Gate Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $46
Medium yellow with a buttery, honeyed nose, along with papaya, lemon curd, yellow apples, with some dandelion and honeysuckle. Plush and juicy on the palate, medium acidity, the fruit shows a mix of yellow apples, pineapple, lemon bars, mixed with components of honey, graham cracker, but also expressive chalky, river rock tones. Fun stuff, punchy, vibrant style that shows solid complexity, too. 25% maloactic fermentation, aged 10 months in 25% new French oak. (89 points)

2018 Ram's Gate Chardonnay El Diablo Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $70
Rich yellow color. Inviting nose of yellow apples, baked plums, honeycomb, graham crackers, walnut shell, also notes of hay and chalk. Plush texture on the palate, plump but lovely freshness, with golden apples, apricot and pear fruit. Notes of honey, nougat, candied ginger mix with underlying mineral and seashell notes. Lush but complex and very pretty. 38% maloactic fermentation, aged 11 months in 35% new French oak. (91 points)

2017 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $40
Deep yellow color. Inviting, complex aromas of apple butter, lemon curd, grapefruit zesty, topped in notes of honey, graham cracker, sea salt and ginger. Harmonious, complex nose for sure. Rich texture on the palate, the creaminess is matched by this racy, salty aesthetic. Lemon curd, yellow apple and apricot fruit meld well with white tea, graham cracker and ginger, along with these stony, mineral, mountain stream elements. Consistently, such an overperforming Chardonnay that screams value, and the 2017 is a really expressive, vibrant iteration. Aged 10 months in 85% new French oak. (94 points)

2018 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Russian River Selection - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $35
Deep yellow color. Plump aromas of yellow apples and pears, topped in almond, peanut skin, honey, with some chalk dust and floral perfume. Juicy and ripe but the acidity is delightful and precise, framing the wine well and keeping it fresh, while the waves of yellow apple and lemon curd fruit roll in. Has deep, nutty, graham cracker, honeyed tones, but also fresh elements of mountain stream and yellow flowers. Lots of precision and complexity here for the price. Aged eight months in 30% new French oak. (90 points)

2019 Notre Vue Chardonnay Musqué - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $36
Light yellow color. The nose starts with a kick of mint and sliced cucumber, with green apples, lemon and kiwi, and lots of floral tones. Creamy texture meets crisp acidity on the palate, with green apples, white peaches and limes. Floral and bright but lovely texture, and notes of chalk, celery seed, sliced cucumber. Bright and inviting, this rides a nice line, a lighter, nuanced style. (89 points)

2019 Notre Vue GSM Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $29
Vibrant salmon color. Aromas of hay, honeysuckle, wildflowers and mint on top of gushing peach and honeydew fruit – so inviting. Plush texture meets rushing acidity on the palate, really well-balanced with chunks of melon and peach. Complex notes of cut flower stems, sea salt, punchy but also crisp and bright throughout. A spicy, inviting, floral finish – very impressive. (90 points)

2019 Battuello Vineyards Valdiguié Rosé - USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $28
Juicy strawberry color. The nose shows raspberries, white cherries, red apple, watermelon rind, along with rhubarb and celery seed. Juicy and ripe on the palate, but it shows crisp and focused acidity, along with a crushable, delicious feel. Mint, flinty, white pepper and magnolia tones add complexity. Fun and delicious but shows solid complexity and depth. (90 points)

Reds

2018 Battuello Vineyards Valdiguié - USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $45
Vibrant purple color. Fruity, fun but exciting aromas of cherries, plums, violets, some cinnamon and earth tones. Juicy and smooth on the palate, a velvety/light tannic feel mixes with vibrant acidity. Juicy red cherries and wild blackberries mix with elements of violets, pepper, anise, also some graphite, milk chocolate and coffee. This is a fun but complex and exotic Valdiguié worth seeking out. (91 points)

2017 Battuello Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $90
Deep purple color. Saucy, deep aromas with plums, jammy blackberries, with roasted coffee, vanilla, anise, mocha, deep, sweet earth. Full-bodied, rich with chewy tannins and moderate acidity. Plummy, saucy, deep blueberries and sweet blackberries. Notes of mocha, vanilla, charcoal and clove add complexity. A big but charming Cab that has complexities to uncover in the decanter or a few years in the cellar. (89 points)

2018 Battuello Vineyards Petit Verdot Battuello Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena

SRP: $70
Dark purple color. The nose is deep and saucy with blackberries and roasted fig, lots of graphite, smoky charcoal, black pepper, with violets and clove. Full-bodied on the palate with solid, grippy tannins but the acidity is vibrant and keeps the wine balanced. Dark plums, blackberries and roasted figs (rich but vibrant fruit) mixed with complex elements of rocky earth, anise, black pepper, with nuanced mocha and caramel tones. Complex, delicious, this is one to age or crack around a campfire with grilled steaks. (91 points)

2018 Banshee Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $28
Deep ruby color. Aromas of jammy cherries, cool, chilled blackberry, along with cola, roses, fallen leaves and potting soil – quite a bit going on here. Juicy and fresh on the palate, this is a medium-bodied Pinot with smooth tannins and fresh acidity. Red and black cherry fruit, raspberry jam, topped in cola, light roast coffee, roses and clove, even some leathery, minty, earthy accents. Yummy but crisp, accessible and fan-friendly but shows complexity and value as well. (88 points)

2016 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
SRP: $125
Light purple color. Gorgeous, expressive, vibrant aromas of anise, tobacco, violets, warm clay and cocoa, over top of saucy plums and black cherries. Full-bodied on the palate with earthy, dusty tannins, showing grip but accessibility, with moderating acidity – it’s big but balanced really well. Suave, complex fruit (currants, black cherries and plums) mix with notes of tobacco, mint, dark chocolate, graphite, minerals, violets. Shows structure, freshness and aging potential, but beautiful already. It’s great to see this wine continue to excel. All Monte Rosso fruit, includes 5% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec, aged 26 months in a mix of French oak (75% new) and American oak (19% new). (94 points)

2016 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Lot No. 1 - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $250
Vibrant purple color. Suave, deep aromas of blackberries, black currants, roasted fig, laced with tobacco, leather, pencil shavings, cocoa – takes time and air to really bring out the aromatic complexities, but there’s a ton in here. Full-bodied, solid tannins for aging but no harsh edges, the acidity is lovely and fresh. A deep, tangy core of black cherries, red and black currants, plum skins, mixed with delicious elements of tobacco, leather, cigar shop, some black pepper and clay. Notes of stony, mineral and graphite blend with cocoa and vanilla. Complex, age-worthy but vibrant, age this for five to 10 years or give it a solid decant. 100% Cabernet aged 21 months in 93% new French oak. (94 points)

2016 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $58
Medium purple color. Aromas show tart but deep currants and black cherries, with lots of earthy, spicy complexity (tobacco, paved road, warm clay, graphite) with dark chocolate and espresso notes. Full but nuanced on the palate, well-built, grippy but refined tannins support juicy, tart red and black currant, and the balance between all these elements is lovely. Notes of leather, black pepper, tobacco leaf, mint, along with charcoal, vanilla and cedar nuances. Delicious, pretty, packs complexity and nuance. Long life ahead for this beautiful Cab. Includes a combined 10% Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this is aged 19 months in 45% new French oak. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

American Wines from Arizona & Virginia

Happy Friday, and I hope, if you’re reading this, you are healthy and well. This week, I have a mix of wines from two of my favorite U.S. states.

I’ve written a lot about Arizona wines in the past, since I’ve been visiting the state to hike and visit family for the past 10 years or so. The Arizona wine scene is diverse, and my favorites tend to be hard to find. But Aridus, based in the high-elevation region of Willcox, makes more widely-available wines that offer a good introduction to what the state has to offer.

Living in DC, I will admit my local bias: I am passionate about the land and wines of the commonwealth of Virginia. I recently caught up for a virtual chat with Virginia wine guru Frank Morgan, and four producers to taste and talk about what’s going on in Virginia wine these days. If you haven’t tried Virginia Petit Manseng or Petit Verdot, and are up for venturing out into new territory, there are two excellent examples in this report.

There’s also a lonely Oregon wine in this report as well.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2015 Aridus Chardonnay Barrel Select - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $47
Rich yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd and bruised pear with salted peanut, pecans, whipped butter. Plump texture on a medium-bodied frame with balanced acid and notes of nougat, honeycomb, butterscotch and white tea to mix with the apricot and yellow apple fruit. A fun, crowd-friendly style. (86 points)

2016 Aridus Grenache - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $40
Deep raspberry color. Nose shows melted red licorice with spicy red currants and raspberries, topped in smoky earth, a dry rub of paprika, pepper and red pepper flakes. On the palate, this is a medium/full-bodied wine with a juicy and fun appeal, low tannins, medium/low acidity. Cherries and raspberries mix with pepper, clove, paprika and rose petals. Ripe but nuanced. Showing freshness and spiciness – solid introduction to Arizona’s take on Rhone varieties. Includes 10% Graciano, aged 18 months in oak. (88 points)

2017 Aridus Tempranillo - USA, Arizona
SRP: $40
Deep purple color. Aromas show jams of sweet raspberries and red cherries, along with some tobacco, smoky earth, warm clay and mesquite smoke. Plush texture on a medium-bodied palate with some moderate acidity for balance, showing a smooth, chewy but fresh approach. Jammy raspberry and plum fruit mixed with notes of oregano, creosote, dusty earth. Ripe and fun, but fresh and shows savory complexity – a killer grill wine that could also age for a few. (88 points)

2017 Aridus Petite Sirah - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $39
Dark purple color. On the nose, I get blackberry, roasted figs, with black pepper, pine, wild herb tones. Full-bodied, the tannins have this chewy feel and medium/low acidity holds it together. The blackberry and black currant fruit mixes well with notes of tar, dark chocolate, black tea and some mineral, rocky tones and cedar. If you’re a Petite Sirah fan, and interested in Arizona wines, you have to check this one out. Aged in 90% new oak for 28 months. (88 points)

2018 Acrobat Winery Pinot Gris - USA, Oregon
SRP: $15
Light yellow, copper-tinged color. Perfumed aromas of dandelion and magnolia petals, with cucumber slices, over top white peach and kiwi fruit. Texture is juicy and ripe with pleasantly balanced, bright acidity. Lemon and white peach fruit blend with verbena, dandelion, some chalky, flinty tones. Quite complex and balanced for a wine at this price point. Solid value! (88 points)

2018 Narmada Winery Mom - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Rappahannock County
SRP: $21
Light yellow color. Bright aromas of lemons and peaches and lots of tropical flowers, topped with nettle and sea salt notes. Juicy chunks of pineapple, peach and papaya on the palate, but this is a focused wine with precise acidity. The 1.7% residual sugar is woven in really well, and the acidity keeps this zesty and fresh. Lots of floral complexity, verbena, mint, sea salt. Really interesting stuff, worth checking out, especially for the price. It made me think of a blend between Alsace and Alto Adige white wines. A stainless steel blend of Vidal Blanc, Chardonel and Chardonnay. (88 points)

2018 Walsh Family Wine Petit Manseng North Gate Vineyard - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County

SRP: $30
Light gold color. Delicious, inviting nose of white peaches, guava, limes, along with honey, white flowers and a cool kick of sea salt and chalk dust. Plump texture but the acidity is focused and sharp, mixed with juicy nectarines, peaches and lemons. I get complex elements of almond skin, honeyed green tea, with rushing minerals and chalk dust. Deep but precise, complex but gluggable, this is a beautiful Petit Manseng that should age nicely. (90 points)

2018 Blenheim Vineyards Cabernet Franc - USA, Virginia
SRP: $22
Vibrant purple color. Juicy, fresh aromas of plums, tangy blackberries and black cherries, with smoky, earthy tones, anise and magic marker. Accessible on the palate with dusty tannins and fresh acidity, with a core of tangy black cherry and blackberry fruit. Notes of violets, tobacco, mint mix with graphite and cedar. Tangy, fresh, but enough depth, too. Delicious and a solid value, reliable Virginia Cab Franc. Sourced from two sites in Shenandoah and Southern Virginia. Aged nine months in 90% French and 10% American oak. (88 points)

2017 Williamsburg Winery Petit Verdot Reserve - USA, Virginia
SRP: $49
Vibrant purple color. Nose shows tart dark currants and plums, saucy black cherries, with smoky, graphite, charcoal tones, cocoa powder and some leather, too. Vibrant acidity meet grippy tannins, and the balance is impressive. The fruit is a warm, tart compote of blackberry and black currant, tossed with oregano, anise, roasted coffee, cocoa, cedar and graphite. Lovely now but this deserves some time in the cellar (four to six or so). All Petit Verdot, aged in 40% new French oak. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Sonoma Wines from Knights Bridge

This week, I’m visiting some wines from Sonoma’s Knights Valley.

Here, in the northeast corner of Sonoma, where Napa and Sonoma meet at the base of Mount Saint Helena, the climate is the warm and the soils rocky.

I recently received a group of wines from Knights Bridge from this area. This winery was formed in 2006, and the wines are made by Douglas Daneilak, who has been with Knights Bridge since the beginning. Their diverse mix of Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays offers an interesting way to analyze what this region has to offer. This was my first time tasting wines from this producer, and I found a fascinating mix of complex white wines (and a few reds) worth seeking out.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2018 Knights Bridge Sauvignon Blanc KB Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $30
Medium yellow color. Bright and stony on the nose with apricot, grapefruit, with lemongrass, basil and chalk dust. Plump texture on the palate with crisp acidity, balancing it well. Apricot, green apple, kiwi and orange peel, mixed with honeysuckle, daisies, along with notes of river rocks and minerals. Vibrant, lively, nuanced feel. (88 points)

2019 Knights Bridge Sauvignon Blanc Fairview - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $70
Pale yellow color. Aromas show lemons, apricot and white peach, topped in nettle, honeysuckle, with some cream, whipped butter and sea salt. Creamy texture on the palate, fleshy but vibrant with a bright, crunchy feel, and delicious yellow apple, apricot and lemon fruit. Steel, floral, perfumed and mineral tones contrast nicely with these cinnamon, vanilla and white tea elements. Rich but complex and nuanced. (91 points)

2019 Knights Bridge Sauvignon Blanc Pont de Chevalier - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $40
Medium yellow. Rich and deep on the nose, with a tropical blast of papaya, green melons, topped in honey, whipped cream, white tea and vanilla candle. Full and creamy on the palate with rich texture, but medium acidity keeps it moderately fresh. Papaya, white peach and cantaloupe fruit mix with lemon crème, vanilla and cinnamon, subtle white pepper and white tea tones. A Chardonnay-esque Sauvignon Blanc, but it’s well done. (88 points)

2018 Knights Bridge Chardonnay KB Estate Unoaked - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. Aromas of green apples, lemon, topped in mint, yellow flowers, hay and honeysuckle. Crisp and bright on the palate with green apples, pineapple, lemon and guava. Accents of honeysuckle, daisies and dandelion add a nice touch. Ripe but fresh and steely. Nicely done, seafood-friendly stuff that stays fresh and inviting. (87 points)

2018 Knights Bridge Chardonnay KB Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $40
Deep yellow color. Aromas of yellow apples, lemon bars, topped in salted almonds and pecans, with graham cracker and chalk tones. On the palate, this shows chunks of yellow plums, yellow apples, lemon curd and green melon. Creamy but nuanced, moderate acidity, has a subtly salty and chalky feel to the richer elements of nutshells and whipped honey. Showing some balance and nuance, though. (88 points)

2018 Knights Bridge Chardonnay East Block - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $75
Light gold color. Creamy, warm, inviting aromas of yellow apples, apricot and orange marmalade, with peanut brittle, hay and white flowers. Full and creamy on the palate, but nice acidity keeps it from being heavy. Delicious fruit (creamy yellow apples, orange marmalade) mixes well with graham cracker, almond butter, creamy, waxy tones, topped in some white flowers and notes of sea salt. Lush, creamy, but also very pretty. (89 points)

2018 Knights Bridge Chardonnay West Block - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $85
Light yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd, baked apple, topped in cinnamon crumb and almond cake, with honey, graham cracker, also some sea salt and chalk. Plump and rich and creamy on the palate with moderate acidity. Flavors of lemon bars, yellow apples, mixed with whipped butter, mixed nuts, hay and shaved ginger. Deep, delicious, rich, yet shows nuances and complexity that keep it interesting. (90 points)

2018 Knights Bridge Chardonnay Pont de Chevalier - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $50
Rich yellow color. Bold aromas of graham cracker, almond cake, whipped honey and nougat, with baked apples, yellow plums and orange marmalade. Plush, waxy texture, rich and inviting, with medium-low acidity. Juicy yellow apples, baked pears, lemon bars and orange marmalade, the fruit is mixed with cinnamon crumb cake, vanilla crème, peanut brittle. Subtle chalk and white floral tones. Rich and boastful but it is undeniably delicious and sports solid complexity if you like this style. (89 points)

2016 Knights Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon KB Estate ­­- USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $60
Deep purple color. Nose shows smoky earth, dark chocolate, cedar and roasted chestnut over top deep currant and blackberry fruit. Plush texture on the palate, with surprisingly vibrant acidity, on a chewy-textured frame with smooth tannins. Juicy plums, red and black currants, smooth, refined fruit with notes of smoky earth, graphite, anise and dark chocolate adding complexity. Violets and pencil lead on the finish, this is a deep but refreshing Cabernet showing very well at the moment but should show even better in a few years. (90 points)

2016 Knights Bridge Red Blend KB Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $50 

Deep purple color. Aromas of plums, saucy cherries with smoky earth, grilled herbs and vanilla bean. Full-bodied with velvety tannins, some medium acidity with flavors of saucy plums and currants. Notes of tilled soil, black pepper, roasted bell pepper and grilled herbs really jive well with the deep yet silky fruit and feel. Juicy, vibrant and lush, this should open nicely in a few years. Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Napa Valley Reds

My heart is breaking as I follow from afar the news of more fires in California. The impacts of the Glass Fire that continues to devastate Napa are tragic and overwhelming. The scale of the destruction of life, property, livelihoods seems impossible to imagine. My sincerest thoughts and wishes for safety are with all of the people affected by this and other fires.

While there are so many more immediate concerns and ways to support those affected, it seems to be a good time to buy some Napa wine and raise a glass to wish them well. This week, in a spirit of support for the people who make Napa Valley wine possible, I have a round-up of some recent Napa red wine releases.

Sullivan, under new ownership since 2018, was founded by Jim O’Neill Sullivan in 1972. This Rutherford estate offers up two exciting reds in this report.

Calla Lilly Estate also brings a pair of delicious wines. This Pope Valley estate was founded by two Hong Kong-based entrepreneurs, who sought out winemaker Cary Gott. The 20 acres of vineyards reside on the eastern slopes of Howell Mountain. The 2015 vintage of their Audax is really something.

La Pelle is a Napa project that brings together Israeli-born winemaker Maayan Koschitzky, Mexican-born farmer and winemaker Miguel Luna, and American-born farmer and founder of Silverado Farming Company Peter Richmond. I’ll let their wines speak for themselves.

Shafer is a Napa stalwart that needs to introduction. Their TD-9 continues to deliver deep, Napa goodness for a reasonable price, while the Relentless Syrah lives up to its name.

All of these wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Deep purple color. Rich aromatic display of plums, tart blackberries, black currants, imbued with violets, coffee, potting soil. Ripe, juicy and full-bodied on the palate (15%) with a chewy texture, smooth tannins and medium-low acidity. Deep plum and blackberry fruit blend with coffee, dark chocolate shavings, vanilla and scorched earth tones. For fans of ripe, juicy Cabs, this offers a lot of Napa goodness for a reasonable price. Includes 11% Petite Sirah, aged 16 months in about 29% new French and American oak. (88 points)

2018 La Pelle Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $80
Vibrant purple color. A vibrant but deep mix of currant and blackberry fruit with enticing tobacco, earth, cocoa and grilled herb tones. On the palate, shows a deep, vibrant core of dark but fresh fruit, complemented by elements of tobacco leaf, bay leaf, mint, spiced black tea. Integrated vanilla and cocoa, this shows an exciting amount of freshness, which matches the juicy fruit. Offers a lot of depth and vibrancy. A blend of fruit from four appellations, includes 2% Petit Verdot, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (91 points)

2017 La Pelle Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $125
Deep purple color. Suave black cherries, currants and plums on the nose, with complex notes of earthy, tilled soil, graphite, mint and dark chocolate. A deep core of tart black currants and blackberries on the palate; grippy tannins but no harsh edges, fresh acidity. Big but refined and balanced with notes of smoky peat, potting soil, graphite, rocky earth, and carefully-woven notes of coffee and cedar. Beautiful stuff that will get even more so over the next five to eight years. Give this a lot of time in the decanter if opening anytime soon. Includes a combined 6% Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, aged 20 months in 80% new French oak. (93 points)

2015 Rutherford Hill Merlot - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $36
Light purple color. Aromas of mulled raspberries and cherries with earthy, sooty, tobacco and some mushroom tones. Silky tannins on the palate with fresh acidity and a smooth, velvety feel. Cherry and raspberry jam fruit mix well with nuanced coffee, dark chocolate, and earthy-tilled soil notes. Subtle tobacco and mushroom tones coming out. Quite nice, this has aged well and has more to go. (88 points)

2016 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Ultimate Red - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $65
Deep purple color. On the nose, a core of rich, deep, saucy black currants, wild blueberries, with deep earth, pencil lead, anise cookie and magic marker. Full-bodied, rich texture, chewy tannins, moderate acid, with ripe and bold but nuanced and fresh as well. Gushing, deep blueberries, blackberry and currant jam, with mint, cocoa, vanilla, dark chocolate. Ripe and deep, this is delicious, hedonistic but balanced goodness. Includes 6% Cabernet Franc, 6% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, aged 22 months in 40% new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Audax - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $120
Deep purple color. Deep but inviting, with currants and dark plums, lots of coffee, dark chocolate, clove and cinnamon. Velvety tannins, structured but the acidity is quite precise and the moderate feel (14.1% alcohol) make for a really vibrant and dynamic wine. Great concentration of fruit (blueberry, black currant) with complex notes of grilled herbs, bay leaf, spicy steak rub, with nuanced cocoa and coffee. I love the vibrancy here, this isn’t a dense, heavy Napa Cab by any means - there is a ton going on here. Decant or age for some years but this is lovely. Includes a combined 8% Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, aged 27 months in 50% new French oak. (93 points)

2016 Sullivan Vineyards Coeur de Vigne - USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford
SRP: $90

Deep purple color. Bold but vibrant aromas of plums and currants, mixed with menthol, cocoa, anise, roasted chestnut. On the palate, this is vibrant and pretty but well-built with dusty tannins, moderate acidity and a deep but lively fruit blend of currants, plums and blackberries. Notes of cocoa, anise, graphite, charcoal, along with this invigorating mineral and rocky aesthetic. Earthy, violets, potting soil tones come out with time. This has an old-school feel that is really attractive, and it needs five to six years in the cellar to start showing its best, but this is beautiful stuff. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc with Malbec and Petit Verdot. (93 points)

2016 Sullivan Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Estate - USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford
SRP: $110
Medium purple color. Smooth, deep, inviting nose of sweet black cherries and currants, blackberries, along with scorched earth, cocoa, coffee, and rocky-dusty tones. Full-bodied, suave tannins, smooth and velvety feel with moderating acidity. A rich mix of roasted fig and plums, deep currants and blackberry jam, topped in mocha, coffee, anise. Bold flavors are accented with complexities of graphite, rocky earth and dried leaves. Delicious now but should do interesting things over the next three to five years. (91 points)

2018 Shafer TD-9 - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Light purple color. Beautiful nose of blackberries, black cherries and roasted figs, laced with enticing notes of scorched earth, anise, graphite, with cocoa, sweet vanilla. On the palate, this is full and suave with well-built but velvety tannins, medium/low acidity, this is big but shows lots of nuance, too. Roasted fig, blackberry and dark plum fruit is tossed with mesquite, mint, eucalyptus and clove notes, along with pretty violets and earth that come out more and more with air. This really does need time and air to unwind, but it is delightful, delicious, complex stuff. Tons of Napa goodness for a reasonable price. Merlot with 23% Cabernet Sauvignon and 21% Merlot, aged 20 months in all new French oak. (93 points)

2017 Shafer Relentless - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $95
Deep purple color. Aromas of saucy plums, black currants, roasted figs, with these deep, dark, earthy tones, charcoal and graphite. Big and bold on the palate, juicy tannins, moderate acidity, it is boastful but nuanced with suave, tangy currant and plum fruit. Complex notes of mesquite, beef jerky, mint, leather, rocky elements that are delicious and fascinating to pull out. I feel like these need quite a bit of time to show their best – I think this will be beautiful in eight to 10 years. Includes 14% Petite Sirah, aged 30 months in new French oak. (93 points)

2016 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
SRP: $300
Deep purple color. Dark, deep and inviting on the nose, with suave blackberries, tart plums, black currants, laced with graphite, cocoa, anise, tobacco, and rocky, earthy tones. On the palate, this is full but fresh, with gorgeous balance between structured tannins and tangy acidity, which frames the wine so well. Juicy dark currants, plums and blackberries, with complex notes of graphite, stony earth, cocoa powder, espresso. These underlying notes of tobacco, violet petals need time to come out. This is a beautiful Hillside Select, such elegance and balance, but also staying power. I would love to see this in 10 years. Aged 32 months in new French oak. (96 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Lake County's Steele Wines Keeps Delivering the Goods

Jed Steele. Credit: Steele Wines

Long-time readers may have seen me focus on Steele Wines in the past. And that’s because there’s something about this producer’s old-school aesthetic, budget friendly appeal, and diverse and delicious portfolio, that I think deserves attention. Owner/winemaker Jed Steele has been vinifying grapes for 50 years; this year Steele Wines marked its 28th anniversary.

This old school Lake County producer puts out a staggering array of wines. There are different brands, price-points, and lots of different sources of fruit from around California. Thing is, from entry-level to their upper tier wines, these wines are reliably well-made, delicious, and frequently complex, offering a lot of bang for the buck.

I recently tasted a batch of new releases and found a lot of wines that I would recommend for those looking to try something yummy and a bit off-the-beaten path without spending a lot of money.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White wines

2019 Steele Wines Sauvignon Blanc "Shooting Star" - USA, California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $15
Light yellow color. Interesting notes of lemon verbena, clover and honeysuckle, on top of grapefruit and white peach. Plush texture, medium/full body, with zippy acidity, this has a real sense of precision and balance that is rare for the price point. Lemons, peaches, with minty, chalky, steely, mineral tones. From 30-year-old vines in Kelseyville, Lake County, this is fermented and aged in stainless steel. Really solid value here. (88 points)

2018 Steele Wines Cuvée Chardonnay - USA, California
SRP: $24
Light yellow color. Fresh aromas of green apples and kiwi, with hay, sea spray and honeysuckle. The palate is fresh and vibrant with zippy acidity, but solid depth and texture as well. A bright, accessible style with flavors of green apples, limes, white peach. Notes of white tea, honeysuckle, raw almond and floral perfume add complexity. Solid value here, especially for fans of brighter, less heavy styles. Blended from five vineyards in Sonoma, Santa Barbara and Lake Counties, aged eight months in 20% new French oak. (87 points)

2018 Steele Wines Chardonnay Parmelee-Hill Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
SRP: $36
Medium yellow color. Gorgeous nose of honey, ginger, almond, toasted nuts, but also these brighter, sea breeze tones, all on top of juicy yellow pears. Plump and lovely texture on the palate but vibrant acidity, matched with pure, deep fruit (honeydew, lemon, yellow pear. Nuanced notes of nougat, honeycomb and ginger snap contrast with these crushed shells, sea salt and mineral elements really well. This is Sonoma Valley Chardonnay goodness at a great price, aged 12 months in 30% new French oak. (91 points)





2018 Steele Wines Chardonnay Durell Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Carneros
SRP: $38
Medium yellow color. Creamy nose with salted almond, dried straw, shaved ginger, over top of juicy yellow apples and pears. Lively acidity frames the wine well, supported with a creamy texture and ripe but lively fruit (yellow apples, lemon curd, white peach). Complex, racy elements of minerals, crushed seashells, rocky stream add lip-smacking elements while notes of graham cracker and honeycomb add depth. Balanced, serious, age-worthy stuff here. Aged 12 months in 30% new French oak. (92 points)

Red wines

2017 Steele Wines Merlot - USA, California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. Nose of currants and juicy plums, fig paste, with anise, violets, toffee and cedar. Full and suave with fresh acidity, this has chunks of plum, crunchy blackberries, suave but fresh fruit. Pepper, tobacco, cedar and coffee grounds, this has a lot of nuance and freshness for a Zinfandel at this price point. Serious Zinfandel from the Kelsey Bench AVA, this spends 14 months in 30% new French and American oak. (89 points)

2017 Steele Wines Pinot Noir “Shooting Star” - USA, California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $15
Light ruby color. Spicy rhubarb and pepper on the nose with rose petals, red currants and wild raspberries. Medium-bodied with silky-light tannins, fresh acidity, this is zippy and crushable, which is great, whole sporting some fun flavors. Wild strawberries and raspberries, crunchy red apples, with cinnamon sticks, pepper, tobacco and clove. Fun, fresh, vibrant, this has a lot of appeal for a Pinot at this price point, which is rare. Aged nine months in French and Hungarian oak. (86 points)

2018 Steele Wines Zinfandel “Shooting Star” - USA, California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $15
Deep ruby color. Smells of jammy cherries and raspberries with smoky earth, chewing tobacco, mocha and root beer. Full-bodied on the palate with chewy texture, light tannins, rich, ripe and summer-friendly stuff. Jammy black cherries and plum sauce fruit mixed with cola, toffee and vanilla. Fun, grill-friendly stuff. Aged eight months in American and Hungarian oak. (86 points)

2017 Steele Wines Zinfandel Old Vines Pacini Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Aromas of cherries, wild blueberries, raspberries, with integrated notes of mesquite, anise cookie, scorched earth. Full-bodied, chewy texture, velvety tannins, but stays lively and fresh with some moderating acidity. Black cherries, tart plums, wild raspberries, with bold notes of earth, tobacco, roasted chestnut, along with vanilla, coffee and dark chocolate Forward and packed with fruit but this shows a lot of complexity as well. Aged 12 months in 30% new American oak. (89 points)

2016 Steele Wines Zinfandel Century Old Vines Catfish Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Clear Lake
SRP: $25
Bright purple color. Nose shows jammy raspberries, blueberries, blackberries, with violets, coffee and vanilla. Vibrant acidity makes this a pleasure to drink from start to finish, the smooth tannins have some structure, but the wine feels accessible with tart black cherry and blueberry fruit. Notes of scorched earth, pepper, graphite, loamy earth. Deep but fresh, showing mineral tones, this is just entering a good drinking phase, and I’d love to see this in two or three years. Seriously impressive Zin for this price point. Originally planted in 1901, own-rooted, head pruned vines that include small amounts of Carignan, Alicante, and others. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

I’m back this week with another round-up of some recent samples from around the world.

This week, Umberto Cesari delivers two interesting wines from Emilia-Romagna’s Rubicone region.

For years now, I’ve been very impressed with Troon’s wines, and they continue to keep their stride. These wines are biodynamic, lower-alcohol, made with native yeasts, and they show tremendous depth and complexity. The U.S. wine scene is lucky to have Troon, an outfit that always maintains quality and focus while constantly branching out and experimenting. And, apparently, now they make one of the only Piquettes I’ve tasted that I can honestly recommend.

And there’s also Post Malone’s Maison No. 9 French pink – hey, I review what I get!

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Maison No. 9 Mediterranée Rosé - France, Provence, Mediterranée
SRP: $22
Medium copper color. Juicy aromas of sweet white peach, juicy watermelon, with honey, sweet white flowers. On the palate, this has a light and crunchy feel with white peach, McIntosh apple, lemon peel. Notes of celery seed, white pepper and mint. Fun, light, stuff but shows some interesting elements – not just celebrity plonk. A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Merlot. (86 points)

2019 Benvolio Pinot Grigio - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Friuli Grave
$10
Pale copper color. Aromas of white peaches, honey, pineapple, with white flowers, fresh laundry and clover. Peaches and green melons lead the way on the palate, a creamy texture with bright acidity works nicely, and the wine has this interesting chalky, flinty aspect. White tea, verbena and mint, even some minerality showing through, this has a lot going on for a budget-friendly Pinot Grigio. (87 points)

2018 Umberto Cesari Liano Bianco - Italy, Emilia-Romagna, Rubicone
SRP: $26
Light yellow color. Inviting nose of creamy pears, guava, orange peel, along with honeysuckle, daisies, dandelion – ripe but fresh. Plump texture on the palate, vibrant acidity, this is fruity but fresh, with a medley of guava, orange, papaya and lime. Creamy and juicy but balanced, too, accented with notes of honeycomb, chamomile tea, minerals and sea salt. Focused and bright on the finish, this is lovely. Chardonnay with 30% Sauvignon Blanc, aged three months in oak. (90 points)

2017 Umberto Cesari Liano - Italy, Emilia-Romagna, Rubicone
SRP: $35
Light purple color. Nose shows smoky earth, tobacco and charcoal on top of black tea, oregano, with juicy black cherries and currant jam. On the palate, this shows silky tannins, medium acidity, and a chewy, approachable presence with black cherries and raspberry jam. Notes of green herbs, glazed mushroom and cocoa add complexity. Fun, spicy, juicy style that offers lots of food pairing options. Sangiovese with 30% Cabernet, aged 18 months in barrel. (88 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Rosé - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Pale copper color. Aromas pop with daisies, baby’s breath, dandelion and mint, over white cherries, watermelon rind and chalk dust. Zesty and clean on the palate, this light-bodied rose has such focus and precision. Tangy white cherries and strawberry, watermelon rind, mixing with gorgeous rose petals, dandelion, wild clover, hay and white tea. Really pretty and complex, this is serious pink, here. A co-fermented blend of Tinta Roriz, Primitivo and Grenache, 11.7% alcohol. (91 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Amber - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $30
Beautiful light amber color. Aromas of salty, briny goodness, with orange peel, candied lemon, and some wild herbs, spiced tea, clay and musk – a lot going on. Such clarity and focus on the palate, medium-bodied, a deeply texture wine but it’s so bright throughout. Candied lemon, orange peel, apricot, the fruit mixes with ginger, mint, fennel, mineral, clay. So complex but it goes down so easily. Not too wild or out there, this would be a great way to introduce folks to orange/amber wines, but it has enough to get orange wine geeks excited, too. Exceptional stuff. 74% Riesling, 16% Vermentino and 10% Marsanne, fermented separately then aged in old French oak. (93 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Piquette - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light watermelon color. Aromas of wild strawberry, tart cranberry, with watermelon rind, white pepper, musk and bay leaf. Light and zippy on the palate with fine bubbles and crunchy tart white cherries and wild raspberries. Notes of mint, bay leaf, musk, spiced tea. Crushable but interesting, funky and spicy, but fun. Made from the pomace of whole-cluster-pressed white grapes (Marsanne and Vermentino) and from red grapes for rosé or pét nat (TInta Roriz, Primitivo and Tannat), with no added sugar. (88 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Pét tanNat - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $30
Deep yellow color. Bright and zesty aromas of white pepper, white flowers, sea salt and chalk on top of apricot and tart yellow plum fruit. So crisp on the palate, this is chalky, dry, bright but sports delightful creaminess and fine bubbles. Tart yellow plum and lemon fruit mix well with talc, chalk, limestone notes, even some cucumber and tobacco leaf elements. This is brisk and light-bodied but shows a lot of depth. It’s also really versatile and a really hard wine not to love. Nothing but praise for this effort from Troon. Made from 100% estate Tannat. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Napa Wines Like None Other: Ashes & Diamonds

I’m back this week to focus on more California wines, this time from Napa’s Ashes & Diamonds.

This project was founded by California native Kashy Khaledi, a media and advertising executive, in 2013. The winery brands itself as “a love letter to Napa Valley as it was when it took the world stage in the 1960s.” Their glassy, mid-century modern winery, located off Highway 29, looks like a fascinating place to visit.

For winemaking duties, Khaledi wisely sought out renowned winemaker Steve Matthiasson and Diana Snowden Seysses, enologist at Domaine Dujac and winemaker at Snowden Vineyards. The several vineyard sources seem like truly special sites, from the gravelly, clay and loam soils of the Ashes & Diamonds Vineyard in Oak Knoll to the thin, rocky soils of the Mountain Peak Vineyard in the Atlas Peak appellation.

I had been aware of these wines for a while, but never wrapped my palate around one until recently. I receive and review a lot of California wines, many of which I appreciate and enjoy. But it’s rare that I taste wines that get me as stoked as these. Sipping these wines, I was shocked at their complexity, vibrancy, effortlessness. The wines are really special and delicious, and perfect for palates with a tendency toward old-school California and Old World styles.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.  

2017 Ashes & Diamonds Blanc No. 3 - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Bright yellow color. Wow, the aromas are stunning and invigorating. Quince, fig, lemon peel, papaya, the fruit is topped in yellow flowers, honey, candle wax, sea salt, mountain stream. Precise and focused on the palate, the light body (11.9% alcohol) meets a deeply textured wine, full of apricot, lemon and green melon fruit. Brisk, mineral, wild herb, honey and chalk notes add all sorts of complexity. Such a nervy, packed wine, this will improve for many years. 50/50 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon from two vineyards in Oak Knoll and Yountville, barrel-fermented, aged 10 months in 30% new French oak. (94 points)

2019 Ashes & Diamonds Rosé No. 4 - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $39
Medium copper color. Such an inviting and vibrant mix of aromas, from yellow pear, apricot and raspberry, to celery seed, mint, with notes of crushed shells, clover and chalk dust. Crisp and bright on the palate (12.4%) balanced with this textural depth and flavor complexity. Apricot, melon rind, white peaches and lemons, the fruit is juicy and pure, accented with all sorts of floral, salty, flinty, mineral, herbal tones. Beautiful presence on the palate, opens up wonderfully with air. A fantastic rosé that you can enjoy now or forget about for a few years and be assured of deliciousness. Whole-cluster Made from Cabernet Franc from Carneros, Oak Knoll and Yountville. (92 points)

2017 Ashes & Diamonds Cabernet Sauvignon Mountain Cuvée No. 2 Bates Ranch - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
SRP: $105
Medium purple color. So fresh and inviting on the nose, with chilled black cherries, plums, topped generously with spicy black tea, clove, plenty of rocky, dusty tones, with pepper, violets. Fresh and crisp on the palate, this is a medium-bodied Cabernet (13%) with structured but fine tannins and incredible balance and mouthfeel. Cool black cherries, crunchy plums and wild blackberry fruit mix so well with mint, tilled soil, violets, clove. Lots of pepper, mushroom and mineral tones come out, more so with air. This is beautiful but needs several years at least to show its best. From a 2,100-foot vineyard on a 30% southeast slope. Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc, aged 19 months in 40% new French oak. (94 points)

2017 Ashes & Diamonds Cabernet Sauvignon No. 2 Mountain Peak Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Atlas Peak
SRP: $125
Medium purple color. What a gorgeous nose! Vibrant currants, tangy plums, juicy blackberries, with inviting notes of warm clay, rocky earth, leather, cocoa and mint – needs time to open and show its full aromatic potential, but lots to unpack. Medium-bodied with precise acidity throughout, the tannins show structure but refinement. Black and red currant fruit abounds, with suave plums, and the fruit is laced with fascinating elements of green herbs, leather, rocky earth, black tea and anise. Beautiful, refined but age-worthy – what a stunner. Aged 19 months in 30% new French oak. (94 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Hawk and Horse Vineyards' Lake County Reds

Credit: Hawk and Horse Vineyards

California is on my mind and heart these days, as I watch from afar as these fires destroy so much. My thoughts and hopes are with all of you affected by these California fires. Stay safe.

There's never been a better time to support California wineries, so today I want to shine a light on some interesting wines from Lake County, which has some special sites and exciting vineyards. These wines still don’t get nearly as much attention as wines from its neighboring counties, but that just means there is much to explore. I’ve tried to highlight different Lake County producers, and this week, I’m excited to dig into an old favorite: Hawk and Horse Vineyards.

After an exhaustive search for a site in the North Coast, David Boies settled on the El Roble Grande Ranch in Lower Lake, California, in 1982. It was an abandoned horse-breeding facility surrounded by 900 acres of wilderness. But the high-elevation (1,800 to 2,200 feet), red volcanic soils, pristine nature and access to water, showed potential for growing great grapes.

Co-owners Mitch and Tracey Hawkins took over daily ranch operations and planted the vines in 2001. Today, they have about 18 acres of grapes, mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with about an acre apiece of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Petite Sirah. The winery still houses some horses and cattle, and is home to many red-tailed hawks (hence the name). The vineyards have been certified organic since 2004 and biodynamic since 2008.

I’ve tasted this Cabernet Sauvignon a few times over the years, and found it to be a consistently exciting and dynamic wine, showing structure, pretty fruit, and some unique and complex earthy, spicy tones. It seemed like a wine that could age, but I never had the chance to test that out, until now. In addition to the other wines in this tasting report, the winery is also selling a trio of library releases (which includes the 2008, 2009 and 2010 vintages) for $330. While that’s not cheap, if these wines said Napa on the label, I think folks would call this a “value.” Tasting these aged wines was an eye-opening experience that really allows the taster to understand the intricacies of this special place.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2008 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $110
Light purple color. Aromas of mulled cherries and plums, still lively, aged but by no means tired, with notes of anise, cocoa, charcoal, tart. Velvety, smooth tannins (still some dusty grip) with medium acidity. Black currant, roasted sweet plum fruit, nuanced and aged but still juicy. Integrated and balanced with elements of pine tar, fallen leaves, cedar and cocoa powder. Complex, interesting, and not done yet. Includes 2% Merlot, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)

2009 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $110
Deep purple color. Aromas of mulled blackberries and red currants, dark and saucy, with anise, graphite, lots of tar, some mocha and leather. Full-bodied but fresh on the palate with structured, suave tannins and medium acidity. The tangy blackberry and spiced currant jam fruit is lovely, and accented with leather, coffee beans, anise cookie, fallen leaves. Still vibrant, the acidity is great, the fruit is waning and allowing secondary notes to take the forefront, but it’s still in a great place right now and will evolve well over the next five years. All Cabernet aged 13 months in 100% new French oak. (91 points)

2010 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $110
Medium purple color. Nose of black currants and blackberry with smoky earth, menthol, tar, sooty but lively with dark chocolate and anise – gorgeous aromatics. On the palate, this is lively and balanced, tannins still grippy, fresh acidity, along with plums and mulled currants. Lots of underlying mineral, graphite and rocky earth tones, with dried leaves and soy. Wow, this has some Left Bank signatures but clearly California, too. I’d love to see this in three or four years. Really well done, holding up great. All Cabernet aged 21 months in 90% new French oak. (92 points)

2015 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $75
Medium purple color. Aromas of plums, dark currants, laced with smoky earth, leather, tar, fallen leaves, with notes of iron and menthol. Full-bodied, structured and suave with fresh acidity. Deep, tart fresh fruit (blueberry, black currant, plums) with complex notes of charcoal, pencil shavings, clove and anise. Deep but fresh, especially after tasting the older wines, I realize just how long this vintage will probably last. Hold or decant. Includes 10% Petit Verdot and 6% Cabernet Franc aged 23 months in 80% new French oak. (91 points)

2016 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Block Three - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. Nose shows rich plums, prunes, violets, saucy blueberries, with graphite, vanilla and coffee. Full, smooth, fresh, impressive balanced, with roasted but tangy fruit (fig, blueberries, black currants), along with concentrated notes of mint chocolate chip, anise, charcoal, dark chocolate. Forward, dark and concentrated, but shows freshness underneath, and significant complexity. I’d hold onto this for a few years. Includes 5% Petit Verdot, aged 25 months in French oak. (90 points)

2015 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Petite Sirah - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $65
Deep purple. Nose of deep, tart currants, along with plums, smoky earth, graphite, tobacco and ink. Full-bodied, built solidly, but there’s some freshness as well. Dark plums, saucy blueberries, fleshy but vibrant with lots of iron, pencil lead, charcoal, balsamic glazed mushrooms, grilled steak. Smoky and deep but also fresh – this would be great in a few years, as those savory elements come out even more. All Petite Sirah aged 20 months in French oak. (90 points)

2014 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Latigo - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $50/375ml
Medium purple color. Aromas of sweet figs, roasted plums, mixed with inviting elements of toffee, dark chocolate, vanilla, also earthy, roasted herb tones – lovely stuff to sniff. Plush and rich on the palate (19% alcohol) with smooth tannins, moderating acidity really helps balance out the sweetness – well-integrated. Flavors of sweet figs and saucy plums and blackberry glaze, suave, delightful fruit. Notes of caramel, espresso, roasted nuts mix so well with these black tea, charcoal and graphite elements. This is a delicious, complex, all Cabernet Franc dessert wine. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.