Wine Reviews: Italian Selections

Despite this current dose of winter weather across much of the country, Spring has seemed close for a while now. I’m looking forward to foraging spring mushrooms and celebrating with some bright white wines. Etna Bianco is great for this, and I have two delightful examples in this report, from the renowned producers Donnafugata and Duca di Salaparuta. Tuscany’s Pomino Bianco DOC also hits the spot with their zesty, focused, mineral-driven blends of Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco.

For reds, I have matching Etna Rossos – wines I’ve long loved from a region that is endlessly exciting to explore. And we have a relative rarity this week as well: a delicious, complex yet inexpensive Barolo. Perla Terra’s 2018 delivers what, for me, is an easy six-pack buy.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2021 Frescobaldi Pomino Bianco - Italy, Tuscany, Pomino
SRP: $26
Light yellow color. A fascinating aromatic display of chalk and flint over top of dandelion and daisies, honeycomb, hay, basil and some chalk dust – spritely and complex. The palate shows a honeyed texture with salty, flinty vibes and crisp acidity, over top of yellow apples, which peach and limes. The notes of chamomile tea, white flowers, sea salt and honey round out this juicy but fresh, brisk, balanced wine. Perfect spring sipping Italian white wine. Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco. (89 points)

2021 Duca di Salaparuta Etna Bianco Làvico - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC
SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. The nose shows vibrancy but a creamy, tropical depth as well, with lemons, kiwi and pineapple, topped in white flowers, honey, chalk dust, flinty and salty tones. The palate shows gorgeous balance with creamy, chunky fruit and racy, mouthwatering acidity. Flavors of pineapple, green apples and lemon, tossed with complex notes of yellow flowers, clean laundry, dried green herbs. The wine maintains this pure mountain stream and limestone essence throughout. Made from Carricante, and a lovely expression of this variety. (91 points)

2020 Donnafugata Etna Bianco Sul Vulcano - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC
SRP: $39
A bright yellow color. The nose pops with peaches, lemons and kiwi, and a host of white and yellow flowers, with crushed stones and salty vibes. On the palate, this sports a nice depth of texture and crisp acidity, and the balance is very pretty. Limes, papayas, peaches, the fruit is matched with racy, salty, chalky vibes. There are so many nuances of flowers, minerals, mountain stream and green herbs. A crisp, vibrant, classic Carricante-based Etna Bianco, and worth seeking out! (92 points)

2020 Donnafugata Etna Rosso Sul Vulcano - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC
SRP: $34
Vibrant ruby. Aromas of juicy cherries and wild raspberries, and complex tones of wild herbs, dried roses, menthol and white pepper. The palate shows a fresh and crushable appeal with dusty tannins, but it has a lot of depth and complexity as well. Raspberries, red apple peel, red cherries, the fruit is tangy and juicy and mixed with all sorts of savory, spicy nuances. Delicious notes of sage, earth, smoke, dried flowers, rose tea and white pepper add a lot to parse through and enjoy. A ton of fun, and a solid value. Nerello Mascalese with a dose of Nerello Cappuccio, aged 12 months in tank and French oak. (91 points)

2020 Duca di Salaparuta Etna Rosso Làvico - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC
SRP: $30
Bright ruby color. So spicy and fresh on the nose, with crunchy red apples and tart cranberry, laced with all sorts of tea and spice, tobacco, warm clay, wild herbs, but it maintains this airy quality. The palate is crisp and fresh with dusty tannins, tangy raspberry and red plum fruit. Tones of paprika, red pepper, black tea and pickling spice add a lot of enjoyable, unique vibes. Pretty, complex, with a finish that sports the volcanic nuances and mineral elements. Really sums up what I love about Etna Rosso. Nerello Mascalese aged in a mix of tank and French oak for 12 months. (91 points)

2018 Perla Terra Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
SRP: $40
Deep purple color. The nose is delightfully spicy, with tobacco, black pepper and green herbs over a deep core of plum and tart currant fruit, with notes of fallen leaves and dried mushrooms. The palate sports crisp acidity and grippy tannins, and the balance is on point, build solidly but fresh and vibrant, with tangy currant and red plum fruit. The complexity is great, with these spiced tea, tar, black pepper, chewing tobacco and dried violets. This has a lot of depth, personality and age-worthiness packed in, and it’s a crazy good value for a Barolo – which is quite the rare treat. Give it a decant or a leave plenty for the second day, but this is delightful. (92 points)

2017 Frescobaldi Chianti Classico Tenuta Perano - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
SRP: $28
Deep ruby color. A vibrant nose of red currants and tangy raspberries, with delightful mulling spices, dried roses, some mushroom and menthol tones – a savory, floral display. Suave tannins and fresh acidity on the palate, the fruit is a delicious mix of mulled cherries and tangy red plums, tossed with an interesting mix of spiced black tea, tobacco, bell pepper, incense and some soy tones. So food-friendly, ready to drink and please a crowd, while showing good balance and focus. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Selections from California and Oregon

 California’s been on my mind a lot lately. I’ve been following these crazy winter storms from afar, and hoping for the best for you all. I’m also excited to visit soon, and very much looking forward to seeing family and friends in Sonoma, doing some surfing, going on climbing adventures, and visiting some of my favorite wine country.

In anticipation, I’ve had the pleasure of tasting through some lovely California wines recently, and I have some selections this week that keep my love for California wine thriving. There are some real Cabernet-based gems in here, from the likes Napa’s Kelly Fleming and Priest Ranch, and from Sonoma’s Chalk Hill and Hamel Family.

From Oregon, I have some new options from the always inventive, reliably delicious Troon Vineyard. This crew does a whole lot, from Vermentinos to skin contact whites, deep Tannats and spicy Syrahs. But this week I want to highlight their Druid’s Fluid blends, which are really tasty and do a good job representing a cross-section of their different estate grapes.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Kelly Fleming Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $185
A deep, lively purple color. The nose shows a pretty core of plum, tart currant, suave black cherries, with a wrapped-up mix of violets, cocoa, cedar and eucalyptus. The palate has deep texture, structured tannins and vibrant acidity, all balanced very well. Tart black currant and juicy black cherry fruit blends well with stony, earthy, graphite, violets and anise. Time and air coaxes out so many nuances, and the mouthfeel is pristine throughout – very long finish. The crisp, tart appeal is gorgeous. This will age gracefully for many years, and a great example of the vintage. All estate vineyard Cabernet aged 20 months in 85% new French oak. (95 points)

2011 Kelly Fleming Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
Library release
A vibrant purple color. Gorgeous aromas of currants, black cherries, dark plums, a compote of deliciousness, mixed with mint, eucalyptus, clove, some coffee and black pepper. Still so alive, but those secondary nuances are really popping. The palate has structured but suave tannins and crisp acidity, and lots of juicy, tart currants and plum fruit. The accents of dusty earth, smoked meat, mint, some black olive, mushroom and spice rub – it all adds a fascinating and delicious display. The fruit is still so full, but has that tangy, edge from the age and vintage, but it’s holding up really well and has a lot more evolution to go. I’d love to re-taste this in five to seven years to see where the savory tones go and how the tannins and fruit integrate further. (94 points)

2019 Priest Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Snake Oil - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $110
Deep purple. Dark and saucy aromas, blueberries and wild blackberries, laced with gravelly, loamy, stony, earthy vibes, and a mix of eucalyptus, mint and white pepper – wow, really interesting. Deep but crunchy and lively on the palate, grippy tannins but refined edges. Tangy blackberry fruit, laced with a unique blend of these graphite, riverbed stones, tar, iron elements. There’s plenty of anise, clove and coffee in here as well, it’s a bold but nuanced and complex wine that will benefit from many years in the cellar, but it’s also great to drink young, with plenty of air and a big meal. Exceptional 2019 Napa Cab. (95 points)

2018 Chalk Hill Estate Red - USA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $75
Deep purple color. The nose exudes gorgeous plum, fig, black cherries, along with complex tones of tobacco, mint, anise, violets, with leather and graphite and coffee. The palate is full but pretty and nuanced with suave tannins and fresh acidity, sporting tart black currant and juicy black cherry fruit. The nuances in the savory, spicy elements are great, with tobacco, earth, roasted red pepper and dried flowers. Complex and elegant, drinking great now but will have a lot more to show in the next few years. A blend of estate Cabernet Sauvignon (54%), Malbec (34%), Petit Verdot (10%) and Carmenere (2%) aged 21 months in 61% new French oak. Wow, what a stunner for the price. (94 points)

2018 Hamel Family Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Nuns Canyon - USA, California, Sonoma County, Moon Mountain District
SRP: $110
Dark purple color. The nose starts with earthy, smoky, spicy tones and then opens up into a deep, tangy core of mountain blueberries, black currants, with dark floral and coffee tones. The palate is full but really fresh, and the fruit is a juicy, cool mix of blueberries and black cherries, highly delicious. There’s a lot going on, with this mocha/toffee/charcoal vibe playing off the anise/pepper/paprika, and it’s a blast parsing everything out. Deep and dark, this needs some years in the cellar or a decanter and a grilled steak, and will age for so long. Gorgeous stuff. Cabernet Sauvignon with 26% Cab Franc, aged 20 months in 36% new French oak. (94 points IJB)

2021 Troon Vineyard Druid's Fluid White - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. The nose pops with peaches, nectarines and lemon curd, tossed with yellow and white flowers, some sea salt, candlewax – a lot going on. The palate shows a creamy, rich texture but the acidity is so focused and pristine, and the balance is lovely. Lemons, pineapple and orange peel fruit blends well with tones of shaved ginger, crushed shells, honeycomb, and it finishes with this pretty, flinty, mineral and chalky vibe. Complex and beautiful, and a great value. Vermentino, Marsanne and Roussanne. (91 points)

2021 Troon Vineyard Druid's Fluid Red ­ USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Vibrant purple color. The nose has a great mix of spices and seasonings over top of violets, charcoal and juicy red and black plums. The palate shows smooth tannins and a chewy but balanced feel, lively acidity. Juicy cherries, raspberries and plum fruit blends well with a complex mix of herbs and spices (pepper, paprika, oregano) and earthy, soil-y vibes as well. This is a lot of fun with an accessible appeal but the complexity and balance are on point. A delish blend of Tempranillo, Malbec, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.