Exploring the unique wines of Uruguay

I don’t know a ton about Uruguayan wines, but the more I learn, the more I like.

I’ve tasted a few dozen wines from Uruguay before, and enjoyed them. I also appreciate, and seek out, wines from lesser-known regions. Uruguay is no newb to winemaking – the first winery dates back to the 1850s. And unlike other South American wine regions whose terroirs are defined by the Andes Mountains or Pacific Ocean, Uruguay wines hail from the Atlantic Coast-influenced areas near the capital of Montevideo. These days, wineries number about 180, most of which are family-owned. There’s something like 15,000 acres under vine, and most of the grapes are harvested by hand.

I recently dug into a bunch of wines from this hidden South American gem, and I found a lot to love. Uruguay is ripe for wine enthusiast exploration, with plenty of producers and appellations to discover, and reasonable price points that making taking a chance worthwhile.

Tannat is a big player here, and I think that’s great. Yes, it can be big and burly, but even as a varietal wine, Uruguayan producers seem to have this grape dialed in. You get that dark core of fruit and structured tannins, but these wines show tangy acidity and balance, along with plenty of unique spices and nuances. It also makes sense with the local fare – as cows outnumber humans four-to-one in Uruguay, and they eat more meat per capita than any other country. But there’s more than just Tannat, with some blends and whites with vibrant, tropical vibes.

I’m looking forward to digging further into wines from Uruguay and, hopefully, visiting one day to experience the country and culture for myself.  These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Establecimiento Juanico Don Pascual Coastal White - Uruguay, Canelones, Juanicó
SRP: $12
Medium yellow color. The nose sports a citrus and guava infusion with chalk dust, sea spray, crushed shells, and hints of white pepper and basil. Crisp, light and floral on the palate, the acidity is bright and the kiwi and green apple fruit maintain a crunchy appeal. Racy and oceanic, with sea salt and oyster shells, along with pleasant, nuanced bits of green onion and white pepper. This has coastal vibes for days, and really brings a lot of depth and complexity for a wine at this price point. Albarino, Chardonnay, and Verdejo. Uruguay with the value! (87 points)

2022 Familia Traversa Sauvignon Blanc - Uruguay, Canelones, Montevideo
SRP: $12

Light yellow color. The aromas pop with green apple, kiwi, limes, and spritely elements of white pepper, basil, and honeysuckle. The palate shows zesty acidity and a pleasantly creamy texture, with flavors of pineapple, green apple, and limes. There’s a cool mix of mineral, oceanic, and crushed stone vibes that pervades the wine, and that textural depth carries the finish, with nuances of honey and herbs. Tons of value packed in here. All Sauvignon Blanc, fermented in stainless steel with a small portion in new American oak. (89 points)

2021 Bodegas Cerro Chapeu Folklore Blanco - Uruguay, Rivera, Cerro Chapeu
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. So floral and alive on the nose, with peaches, orange peels, along with all sorts of tropical and breezy wildflowers. The palate sports a creamy texture and moderate acidity. Flavors of orange rind, yellow apples, and limes, the fruit is tropical but zesty, and supported by cool notes of cut flower stems, dandelion, chalk dust, lots of breezy, airy vibes. Wow, there is a lot of complexity and depth packed into a wine at this price point. Trebbiano and 30% Malvasia, fermented sur lie in stainless steel for six months. (90 points)

2020 Viña Progreso Cabernet Franc Overground - Uruguay, Progreso
SRP: $26
Light purple color. The nose sports tangy currants and plums with a uniquely spicy, meaty appeal – tones of smoked meats, roasted hillside herbs, sun-warmed spices and black tea. The palate shows smooth tannins and moderate acidity on a chewy but vibrant frame, with tart and spicy red and black currants. Savory herbs and spices, leather, with stony, earthy vibes. Fun and spicy but complex and nuanced. A unique regional interpretation on this great grape, and I like it. Versatile, delicious. (89 points) 

2018 Antigua Bodega Stagnari Tannat Prima Donna Riberas del Santa Lucia - Uruguay, Canelones
SRP: $23
Deep purple color. The nose exudes deep blueberry and roasted figs, along with dark elements of magic marker, graphite, charcoal, withs some potting soil and violets. The palate sports a deep and chewy core with grippy tannins and lively acidity. The fruit is a concentration of dark plums, roasted figs, and blueberries, matched with notes of mesquite, graphite, black pepper, tobacco. Spicy and deep but shows mineral vibrancy throughout. Really solid and age-worthy stuff! All Tannat aged eight months in French oak. (90 points)

2020 Artesana Tannat -  Merlot- Zinfandel Reserva - Uruguay, Canelones
SRP: $23
Juicy purple color. The nose shows tangy blueberries, tart currants, with a lot of smoky earth, pepper, anise, tar, dried rose petals. The palate is inky and deep with chewy tannins and medium+ acidity. Deep, tart, smoky black fruit blends well with a host of cool spicy and earth tones (paprika, roasted red pepper, campfire pit, black pepper). Dark coffee and earth on the finish. I love the spice and darker elements in this wine, and it stays fresh throughout. 55% Tannat, 35% Merlot, 15% Zinfandel, aged 12 months in French and American oak. (89 points)

2018 El Capricho Tannat Aguará Special Reserve - Uruguay, Durazno
SRP: $55
Deep purple color. The nose is packed with smoky, earthy vibes, tar, and graphite (love it!) over top of deep blackberries, coffee grounds, dark chocolate. Strong but refined tannins, moderate acidity balances things nicely. There’s a bold but welcome presence of barbecue, earth, chorizo, roasted red pepper, which serve well to accent the black cherry and jammy blackberry fruit. Notes of tar, menthol, fallen leaves, and graphite add complexity. This could use some time in the decanter and will age nicely. Impressive! All Tannat aged 18 months in new French oak. (90 points)

2020 Bodega Garzón Tannat Single Vineyard - Uruguay, Maldonado
SRP: $29
Dark purple color. The nose boasts a deep but vibrant core of juicy dark plums and blueberries, along with potting soil, spiced tea, cocoa, and magic marker tones. The palate kicks off with grippy tannins and moderating acidity, showing a deep and concentrated but fresh and suave feel. The blackberry and blueberry fruit shows a nice dark crunch, and the fruit is mixed with minerals, graphite, and spicy tones of anise and black pepper. Needs time to show its best, but there’s a lot to love in here. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Mendoza wines from Traphiche

This week I’m headed to Mendoza, Argentina. Well, not physically, but at least through my senses. Mendoza’s Trapiche winery recently celebrated 140 years, and their lineup has a lot to offer.

You may be familiar with some of their more widely-available bargain brands – that’s  certainly how I first learned of them. From their fun and accessible Oak Cask label, their tiers go up and up, and at all price points, I’ve found the quality to be very reliable.

This week, I take a deep dive into some of their wines, with a focus on some of their Cabernet Sauvignons. It’s amazing the level of nuance and expression some of these 100% Cabs can show, and Trapiche has a diverse and deep lineup. And their Iscay Syrah-Viognier is one of the most exciting South American Syrahs I can remember sampling.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Trapiche Cabernet Sauvignon Oak Cask – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $10
Juicy purple color. A nice mix of sweet black cherries and plums on the nose, with some toasty oak and pleasant savory spices, roasted red pepper, tobacco. The palate is smooth and ripe with soft tannins and medium acidity. Juicy blueberries and black cherries with notes of chewing tobacco, sage, earth, cocoa. Accessible and fun but stays lively and balanced, and offers a lot of realness at this price point. 100% Cabernet. (87 points)

2021 Trapiche Malbec Oak Cask – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $10
Bright purple color. A nose of saucy plums and baked figs, with earth tones, vanilla, violets, sweet coffee and cocoa. The palate shows suave tannins and moderate acidity, with ripe black cherries and fig paste. Notes of smoky earth, charcoal, mocha and roasted chestnut add complexity. Fun but fresh and balanced. (87 points)

2021 Trapiche Cabernet Sauvignon Broquel – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $20
Ripe and juicy on the nose but vibrant as well, with ripe black cherries and plums, along with violets, clove, coffee, some mesquite and tobacco. The palate sports crisp acidity and suave tannins, framing the dark plum and tangy currant jam fruit. Notes of tobacco, tar, violets, pepper, and earth add complexity. Well-balanced, there’s so much Mendoza authenticity packed into a small price tag. Crowd-pleasing but complex. All Cabernet aged 15 months in 20% new oak. (89 points)

2019 Trapiche Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Medalla – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $30
Deep purple color. Aromas of deep currants and blackberries, with dark, gravelly loam, and notes of charcoal, cocoa shavings, floral potpourri. The mouthfeel is beautiful, with suave tannins and vibrant acidity, and flavors of blackberries and tangy blueberries. There’s a deep presence of earth, iron, gravel underneath this wine, accented with pepper, bay leaf, violets, and nuanced vanilla and cedar. A refined example of Mendoza Cabernet goodness. All Cabernet from their Finca Las Palmas Vineyard, aged 18 months in new French oak. (91 points)

2018 Trapiche Cabernet Sauvignon Terroir Series Finca Laborde – Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, La Consulta
SRP: $50
Vibrant purple color. Gorgeous plum and dark currants on the nose, laced with smoky earth, tobacco, anise and sage – a lot to unpack with air or in the decanter, but already a refined bouquet. The palate shows vibrant acidity and structured, fine-edged tannins, with a tart core of plums and currants. The earthy, gravelly, rocky tones provide a refined structure, and the savory, meaty, floral tones dance with time and air. I’d love to see this in a few years. From 40+ year-old vines, aged 18 months in new French oak. (93 points)

2019 Trapiche Iscay Syrah-Viognier –Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $100
Deep purple color. The nose is an exquisite display of plum cake, fig paste, with cocoa, tobacco, beef jerky, and dusty earth vibes. The palate starts off with racy acidity and solid concentration, but the balance and mouthfeel is so pretty and alive. Tangy black currants and blueberries mix with nuances of roasted red pepper, black olive, grilled steak, black pepper, black tea. This really needs a decant or some time to coax out the nuances, but it’s beautiful. A long-aging stunner. Includes 3% co-fermented Viognier, aged 15 months in new French oak. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine reviews: International grab bag

Spring is in full swing, and this week I have a mix of value-driven, bright, fun wines that offer a lot of diversity and appeal for the season.

Since I first started getting into wine, I’ve been a big fan of Picpoul de Pinet from France’s Languedoc region. The value from this region is excellent, and the wines combine warm weather tropical depth with oceanic zesty vibes. For shellfish and warm days, the two wines in this report would fit the bill perfectly.

Australia’s Yalumba has been on my radar for many years, as they consistently produce a wide range of quality wines. Their Y Series is a partnership with Re:wild, which helps preserve land and protect biodiversity. It also helps that the wines are inexpensive and delicious.

I also have a delightful amber wine from Oregon’s Troon – who continues to produce interesting wines that push boundaries. I round things out with a quality rosé from Sonoma-Cutrer, a spring-friendly Port, and a complex, age-worthy Rioja.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Yalumba Chardonnay The Y Series Unwooded – Australia, South Australia
SRP: $14
Light yellow color. Peachy keen nose with lemon and lime zest, yellow apples, along with honeysuckle, hay and honeycomb – a bright a breezy appeal. The palate is light and bright with crisp acidity and a tropical burst of lemon, kiwi and white peaches. Notes of cucumber slices, lilies, dandelion, lots of wildflowers and some honey. A fun, light style that’d be great with seafood and salads. (87 points)

2021 Yalumba Sauvignon Blanc The Y Series – Australia, South Australia
SRP: $14
Pale yellow color. A mix of zesty and tropical on the nose, with limes, white peach, and notes of celery seed, white pepper, and sweeter honey and floral perfume tones. The palate is racy, fun, and fresh, with a pleasantly creamy texture and flavors of white peach and green apples. Has a chalky, punchy, flinty appeal, with a nice basil and white pepper kick. For the price, this provides a lot of complexity and depth. (88 points)

2020 Domaine Reine Juliette Picpoul de Pinet – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Picpoul de Pinet

SRP: $16
Rich yellow color. Juicy aromas of yellow pears and apples, with fresh white and yellow flowers, and airy, bright notes of chalk dust and margarita salt. The palate has a great mix of plush texture and racy acidity, and the balance sets the stage nicely for the kiwi, lemons, and limes. Sea salt, talc, flowers, honey, a lot going on here. Deep texture but so fresh – a great example of this style, and a lot of value. (89 points)

2021 Château Font-Mars Picpoul de Pinet – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Picpoul de Pinet
SRP: $15
Deep yellow color. Enticing nose, the fruit (quince and lime) blend so well with an oceanic infusion of oyster shells, limestone cliffs, sea spray, and chalk. Medium-bodied with zesty acidity, there’s a lovely textural weight that makes it creamy and pleasant throughout. Green and yellow apples mix with plenty of flinty, limestone, chalk dust vibes. Punchy but pristine, a very versatile spring/summer wine. (90 points)

N.V. Mumm Napa Brut Prestige – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $25
Medium yellow color with fine bubbles. The yellow apples and lemon bar aromas mix so well with biscuits, cane sugar, cinnamon crumb cake, and white flowers. Crisp acidity and fine bubbles on a chalky frame with fresh acidity and a pleasant amount of sweetness. Peaches and yellow apples, mixed with lemon curd, and topped in honey, graham cracker, saltines, and white flowers. Fun, crowd-pleasing, reliable stuff that sports solid complexity for the price. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Gris. (88 points)

2021 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Amphora Amber – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $60
Gorgeous light amber color. Such a spritely nose with scents of red apple and orange peels, honey, all sorts of blossoms, and some candle wax and honeycomb elements. The palate has a chalky, skin-contact tannins with a slightly dusty frame. Flavors of candied orange peel, pear skins, red apple peels, and very interesting elements of corn husk, hay, white tea, clay, and honeycomb. The flavors and textures are in-line, and for a skin-contact amphora wine this isn’t too “out there” – it stays focused, fresh, and event accessible. If you’re interested in these styles, or trying to convert friends or family, this is a great one to try. All whole-cluster fermented Vermentino – this producer is an expert with this grape. (93 points)

2022 Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot Noir Rosé – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $20
Very pale copper color. Vibrantly floral on the nose with orange blossom, dandelion, and nettle, over top of gushing guava, lemon, and white peach. Creamy texture and lip-smacking acidity plan well together with the white peach, guava, and orange peel. A lot of flowers and perfume, with notes of white pepper – plenty of springy, spritely goodness. Shows a pleasant depth of crunchy minerals, white tea, and dried flowers. A delightful Sonoma pink from whole-cluster Pinot, and from a consistent producer – this would be good any time of year. (89 points)

N.V. Graham Porto Six Grapes Reserve – Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $29
Deep purple color. Aromas of rich figs and plum cake, mixed with coffee, toffee, milk chocolate, and dried violets, accented by some pleasant earthy tones. The palate shows suave tannins and a chewy feel, sweet but moderated by the acidity. The flavors of sweet plums, raisin cake, fig paste, even some candied orange peel. Sports a lot of pleasantly sweet coffee and dried flowers, nuanced earth and minerals. Fun and value-driven intro Port, but complex and very well made, per usual from Graham’s. (89 points)

2017 Marqués de Riscal Rioja Baron de Chirel Reserva – Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja
SRP: $96
Deep purple color. A deep and concentrated nose with tart blueberries, red and black currants, gorgeous fruit that is matched with a complex bouquet: smoky earth, paprika, barbecue sauce and roasted coffee, a lot to coax out. Full-bodied on the palate with dusty tannins and zesty acidity, so the balance is great. Tart, deep black cherries and currants, deep but bright fruit with savory notes of black pepper, roasted red pepper, mushroom. And it’s rounded out by graphite, earth, stones and minerals. A beautiful Rioja that will age wonderfully. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.