Wednesday, July 29, 2020

Exciting New Releases from Argentina & Chile

I’m excited to be back this week with some offerings from Argentina and Chile.

Domaine Bousquet’s organic “Virgen” reds dole out plenty of freshness and complexity for a crazy low price. I also have some crisp and deep Malbecs from some of the highest elevation vineyards in the world, Bodega Colomé. And Los Vascos continues to put out reliable, value-driven Chilean wines.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Domaine Bousquet Malbec “Virgen” – Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $13
Deep purple color. Jammy and ripe on the nose (black cherries, dark plums) with roasted chestnut, coffee, violets and charred herbs. Silky tannins on the palate, fresh acidity, a medium-bodied frame, this wine spots black cherries, plums and blueberries, fun but fresh fruit. Notes of violets, cedar, coffee, with charcoal and anise. A lot of personality and “realness” for a wine with this low a price point. (87 points)

2019 Domaine Bousquet Red Blend “Virgen” – Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $13
Medium purple color. Nose shows smoky, beefy, peppery spice with tart currants, red plums, menthol. Zippy acidity, light tannins, a tangy but slightly chewy feel with tart currants and plums. Lots off smoky earth, beef cubes, pepper. Fresh and fun, this is a grill and veggie-friendly wine that offers some solid value. 35% Malbec, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc. (86 points)

2019 Domaine Bousquet Cabernet Sauvignon “Virgen” – Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $13
Light purple color. Aromas of plums, black cherries, with mesquite, cocoa, violets, tilled dark soil. Medium/full-bodied with fresh acidity and light tannins. Red and black plums and currants, tangy and bright fruit, mixed in with earth, clay, mesquite, violet petals, some cocoa and light roast coffee tones. Wow, there’s quite a lot going on here in terms of depth and freshness for the price. Accessible yet sports complexity, too. (88 points)

2018 Bodega Amalaya Malbec – Argentina, Salta, Calchaqui
SRP: $16
Bright purple color. Plummy nose with black cherries and prunes, mixed with coffee, anise, charcoal and dusty earth. On the palate, this is full-bodied with suave tannins, a velvety texture, and vibrant acidity. Blackberries, black currants and tangy plums mix well with elements of smoky earth, graphite, soy, bell pepper. Underlying mineral tones. Delightfully delicious but also showing serious complexity and vibrancy. Serious value alert! (90 points)

2017 Bodega Colomé Malbec Estate – Argentina, Salta, Calchaqui
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Aromas of plum cake, rich black cherry, with dark chocolate, smoky earth, roasted chestnut, mesquite, vanilla bean. Vibrant acidity frames this wine perfectly, suave tannins with some moderate grip, balanced and clean mouthfeel. Black cherry and currant compote fruit blends well with anise, black tea, grilled herbs. Notes of vanilla and cedar wove in well. Complex, vibrant, delicious Malbec. (90 points)

2018 Bodega Colomé Malbec Auténtico – Argentina, Salta, Calchaqui
SRP: $30
Inky purple color. Dark and deep aromas of blackberry, roasted fig, with charcoal, loamy earth, graphite, iron, and violet petal notes. Full-bodied and built well with structured tannins, met with vibrant acidity. Blackberry, black currant and roasted fig fruit, deep but tangy fruit with complex notes of graphite, smashed rocks, charcoal, dark chocolate shavings, mint. Sporting a lot of complexity, balance and aging potential. (91 points)

2019 Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Sauvignon Blanc Los Vascos – Chile, Casablanca Valley
SRP: $10
Light yellow color. Aromas of lemon verbena, sliced cucumbers and jalapeno, with lemon, grapefruit, dried white flowers. Zippy and bright on the palate with juicy white peaches and bright lemon and ruby red grapefruit. Notes of honey, clover, basil and lemongrass add complexity, and I get notes of sea salt and floral perfume. Pleasant, crisp, crowd-pleasing stuff that offers a lot of personality and value. All stainless steel. (87 points)

2019 Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Chardonnay Los Vascos – Chile, Central Valley
SRP: $10
Light yellow color. Aromas of white peach, yellow apples, whipped honey, lots of white and yellow wildflowers. Plump but really fresh on the palate, medium-bodied, bright acidity, it has a light, salad-friendly feel. Lemon, white peach and green apple fruit mix with notes of honey, hay, almond. Fun, summery stuff. Stainless steel with some of the wine aged on its lees. (86 points)

2019 Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Rosé Los Vascos – Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $10
Bright pink color. Nose pops with spicy verbena, mint, with lemon, green apple, rose tea – spicy! Zippy, crisp, crunchy with lemon and tart apple, and notes of mint, white pepper and sea salt add some complexity. This is fun, fresh, salad-friendly stuff. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre. (86 points)

2016 Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Le Dix de Los Vascos – Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $55
Light purple color. On the nose, I get waves of deep but vibrant fruit (black cherries, blackberry, plums) with tobacco leaf, charcoal, loamy earth, coffee grounds, accented with vanilla and cocoa powder. Plush and full texture with structured but velvety tannins and crisp acidity – it is all balanced really well. Smooth black currants with deep cherry and fresh wild blackberry. Complex notes of earth, roasted chestnut, pencil shavings with vanilla and coffee. Gorgeous depth and freshness, this is drinking well now, but 2-5 years in the cellar would help this integrate and allow more complex secondary elements to come out. Really impressive stuff. Cabernet Sauvignon with 10% Carmenere and 5% Syrah, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (92 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Friday, July 24, 2020

Wine Reviews: Italian Grab Bag

I’ve been at home for 19 weeks now, and the travel lust is in full swing. Unfortunately, here in the U.S. we are still in the middle of the first pandemic wave, and things look worse and worse these days. So, this week, to satiate my desire for travel and cheery myself up, I’m visiting a range of Italian wines.

The estate wines of Alois Lageder, in Italy’s Dolomiti region, are organic and biodynamic and really exciting. But I was pleasantly surprised to taste the quality and vibrancy in their Terra Alpina wines, which are sourced from different growers in the region. For the price, these wines offer this sense of regional typicity, depth, and “realness.”

I also tasted an impressive Super Tuscan at an entry-level price from Tenuta di Arceno, and some crushable Veneto wines from Pasqua. Lastly, Zenato’s Amarone makes me long for autumnal weather and slow-cooked meats.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio Terra Alpina – Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT
SRP: $16
Pale lemon color. The nose gushes with kiwi, lime and green melon, mixed with spicy herbs, verbena, talc notes. Plush, medium-bodied, a pretty texture with racy acidity. Ripe melon meets zippy kiwi and lime fruit, which is doused in minerals, chalk, limestone notes. Floral, herbal elements add complexity. This is racy, bright, complex stuff, and a serious value. (90 points)

2019 Alois Lageder Pinot Bianco Terra Alpina – Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT
SRP: $15
Light straw color. Aromas of lemon and kiwi, spiced tea, ginger, sea salt and mint. On the palate, this has a bright, chalky, dusty feel with lots of energy and juicy, tangy fruit (white peach, kiwi, lime). Notes of spiced tea and ginger meet chalk, mineral and quinine notes. Brisk but shows depth and value. (89 points)

2016 Tenuta di Arceno Il Fauno Di Arcanum – Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $35
Medium purple color. Aromas of juicy plums, dark currants, with smoky earth, tobacco, mint chocolate chip and spiced black tea. Full-bodied, structured but velvety, fresh acidity, this is balanced very nicely. Tangy red and black currants and cherries mixed with complex notes of spiced coffee, earth, tar, pepper and coffee grounds. This is a bright but complex Super Tuscan that offers a lot of what I look for in these wines at a very reasonable price. Could use air or a year or two. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot aged 12 months in French oak. (90 points)

2018 Pasqua Romeo & Juliet Passione e Sentimento Bianco – Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $16
Light yellow color. Brisk notes of honeysuckle and lilies, celery seed and mint, over lemon and kiwi fruit. Zippy and crisp on the palate with fresh acidity, and flavors of lemons, green apples and white peach. There’s a flinty, salty undertone that makes this seafood and salad-friendly. Brisk yet some moderate creamy depth with floral perfume to round out the finish. Would be a great BTG pour at a seafood spot. All Garganega. (87 points)

2017 Pasqua Romeo & Juliet Passione e Sentimento Rosso – Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $16
Bright purple color. Aromas of plums, sweet currant jam, with spicy tobacco, cloves, coffee and violets. Smooth and chewy texture on the palate with medium/low acidity, and a velvety feel with plums, raspberry and currant jams. Notes of smoky, resiny, herbal tones with clove. Accessible and fun but has some complexity, too. Merlot, Corvina and Croatina. (87 points)

2015 Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella Classico – Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
SRP: $60
Deep ruby color. Aromas of juicy raspberry, sweet cherries, raisins, sweet roses, vanilla, cocoa and earth. Full-bodied, big and burly at 16.5%, with chewy tannins and medium acidity, a rich and suave feel. Pretty cherries, plum sauce, raisins, kirsch, mixed with elements of cocoa, violets, clove, coffee. Underlying charcoal, mineral and earth vibes. Rich and juicy but shows freshness and complexity. Accessible now but bury for five or eight years and this should show some interesting development. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wednesday, July 15, 2020

The Timeless Sonoma Wines of Merry Edwards

Merry Edwards is an icon in California winemaking. She has a long history of blazing trails and making exceptional wine, from her days in the mid-70s working at Mount Eden, to becoming founding winemaker at Matanzas Creek in 1977, to creating her own consulting business and eventually her own eponymous wine brand in the 90s. Her well-deserved accolades are too many to list.

I’ve visited the Sonoma County winery several over the years, always tying it in with a visit to Joseph Swan, whose founder mentored Merry in the early days. Merry’s well-known Sauvignon Blanc has always excited me, but the single-vineyard Pinots and Chardonnay are what have kept me coming back to these wines year after year.

There have been some recent changes at Merry Edwards Winery. In 2018, Merry announced Heidi von der Mehden (who joined in 2015 as associate winemaker) would succeed her as winemaker, the first time anyone else held that position. Last year, the French firm Maison Louis Roederer purchased the winery. Despite these changes, I’m hoping the wines in the glass stay the same – delicious, exciting, memorable interpretations of their place. After tasting a few of their new releases, that sure seems to be the case.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Merry Edwards Chardonnay Olivet Lane  USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $72
Rich yellow color. Aromas of juicy yellow apple, apricot, lemon bars, with rich notes of hazelnut meeting chalky, oyster shell notes. On the palate, this is lush and creamy but sports vibrant acidity and a zippy, stony, chalky presence. Apricot, green apple, key lime pie, complex, harmonious fruit mixing with notes of almond, caramel, honey and sea salt. Pure, vibrant, delicious, I’d love to see this in three to five years. (92 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir – USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $48
Ripe dark cherry color. Really aromatic, with black cherry preserves, raspberry jam, with rose petals, clove, cola, warm clay. Medium+ bodied, fresh acidity, silky tannins, it has a ripe but crisp feel throughout. Black cherries and raspberries mix with cranberry jam, spiced tea, clove and earth. This is a fresh, complex, delicious Pinot that covers a lot of different bases. (91 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $55
Deep ruby color. Smells of juicy cherries, red plums, red licorice, cola, with earth and violets. Chewy feel on a medium/full-bodied palate with zippy acidity, which balances the mouthfeel nicely. Saucy plums, raspberries, strawberry jam, along with notes of cola, violets, coffee, potpourri. Delicious but vibrant, too. Classic Russian River goodness. (91 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $66
Light purple color. The nose boasts black cherries, raspberries, with cola, sweet violets, tilled soil, rhubarb and mint leaves. Full and suave on the palate with velvety tannins and medium acidity, this sports pretty balance and juicy black cherries, plums and blood orange. Complex notes of chestnut, clove, clay, earth, with cola and vanilla tones. Deep, rich, yet vibrant, this will do well with a few years of age. (92 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $72
Medium ruby color. Vibrant, deep aromas with raspberry, bright cherry, fresh strawberries, with complex elements of clove, rose petals, pine forest. On the palate, this is crisp and elegant on a medium/full-bodied frame with velvety but structured tannins – the balance is pristine. Delicious cherries, pomegranate, plum, raspberry fruit, tangy but deep. Complex elements of pine sap, crunchy leaves, tobacco, bay leaf, rose petals, just all sorts of things going on. Pure, delicious, give this air or five years of age and listen to it sing. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Saturday, July 4, 2020

Delicious Wines from Virginia's Monticello

Considering today is Independence Day in the United States, I thought it fitting to highlight some recent samples from the Commonwealth of Virginia.

I’ve been a big fan and follower of Virginia wine since I moved to Washington, DC, about 12 years ago. I’ve had the privilege to taste many wines from all over the Commonwealth, but this week I’m highlighting wines from the Monticello AVA. Carrying on Thomas Jefferson’s wine vision for this region, some 33 wineries call this area home. The region is centered around Charlottesville, stretching toward the gorgeous Blue Ridge Mountains. If you’re ever travelling in the Mid-Atlantic (one can dream of post-pandemic wines, can’t one?) and looking for a wine trail adventure, this is a great place to start.

Stinson Vineyards makes two super-reliable pink wines from Tannat and Mourvedre. I’ve been tasting these wines for years now, and Rachel Stinson’s 2019s are true to form – some of my favorite rosés from the Commonwealth. The three red blends stem from a webinar I attended on the French influence in Virginia wine, curated by a great Virginia wine writer and ambassador, Frank Morgan. Matthieu Finot of King Family, Damien Blanchon of Afton Mountain, and Benoit Pineau of Pollak are all Frenchmen doing exciting things in Virginia, and the state’s wine industry is lucky to have them.

These wines were all received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Stinson Vineyards Tannat Rosé – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $21
Light pink color. Aromas of peach, cantaloupe rind, white cherries, with chalk, sliced cucumber, white flowers and rose petals. Zippy and salty on the palate with punchy, tangy lemons, apricot, white peaches, Complex, pretty notes of mint, English cucumbers, chalk dust, lemon pith. Tangy, fresh finish with notes of talc, slate and minerals. Another great vintage of a perennially solid pink. (90 points)

2019 Stinson Vineyards Mourvèdre Rosé – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $21
Medium strawberry color. Bouncy, boastful aromas of white peach, orange peel, with white and yellow flowers, white pepper, mint, sea salt – so inviting. Plump texture, delightful presence on the palate, with zippy acidity. Crisp but juicy fruit (yellow plums, white cherries, strawberries) with notes of mint, white pepper, sliced yellow bell pepper, white tea. There’s this rocky, mineral presence underneath. A phenomenal rosé at a crazy price. (91 points)

2017 Afton Mountain Vineyards Tradition – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $50
Medium purple color. The nose shows tart blueberries, black currants, with graphite, smoky earth, eucalyptus and mint chocolate chips. Crisp on the palate with pleasantly bright acidity, moderate tannins, this is a vibrant, fresh style with tart currants and wild blueberries. Notes of graphite, cocoa, mesquite, roasted chestnut. A vibrant and exciting blend of 41% Merlot, 37% Petit Verdot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged two years in 25% new French oak. (90 points)

2017 Pollak Vineyards Meritage ­ USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $40
Light purple color. Aromas show tart red and black currants, mixed with leather, cedar, menthol, and inviting notes of incense sticks and pepper. Full-bodied, medium acidity, smooth tannins, integrated nicely. Spicy red plum and cherry fruit, a zippy feel with notes of eucalyptus, mint, leather, roasted red pepper, roasted chestnut. Great to go now, but will hold well for a few years, too. 60% Cabernet Franc, 24% Merlot, 16% Petit Verdot. (87 points)

2017 King Family Vineyards Mountain Plains – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $70
Medium purple color. Beautiful aromas of tangy cherries, plums, red and black currants, laced with complex notes of roasted herbs, clove, leather, vanilla and cocoa. Fresh and focused on the palate, this is well-built and solid with nice grip, but no harshness – the balance is lovely. Tangy currants, crunch plums, juicy wild cherries – generous fruit yet really fresh. Mixed with tobacco leaf, tilled soil, pine needles, clove, with integrated cocoa and cedar. Wow, this is expert Virginia Meritage that deserves a solid sleep in the cellar or a decant and a grilled steak. 43% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Franc, 20% Petit Verdot, aged in new French oak. (91 points)

2017 Stinson Vineyards Tannat – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $36
Deep purple color. Aromas show deep currants and black cherries, with violets, tar, potting soil and graphite notes. Full-bodied with solid grip and moderate acidity – this is balanced really well. Tart black currants, roasted figs, plum, the fruit is juicy and tangy and laced with underlying graphite, tar, mineral, pine and cedar. The deep core of fruit blends so well with these earth, floral, spicy undertones. I’d love to see this in five years. All Tannat aged 27 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.