Wine reviews: Summertime specialties

 I hope you all are enjoying your unofficial start to summer. If you’re traveling far, best of luck! And if you’re sticking close to home, I hope you’re enjoying some great wine, food, and time with loved ones.

The summer vibes are kicking into gear and, as such, I have a handful of diverse wines that would fit well into a mixed case of summer wines. With the coming heat and humidity here in the Mid-Atlantic, I need some sparkling wines in the mix. And I have some delicious, interesting bubbles in this mix, too.

Australia hasn’t appeared for a while, so I want to highlight several summer-friendly wines from Bird in Hand. It had been several years since I tried wines from this South Australia producer, and I had forgotten how expressive and dynamic they were.

Reds are welcome as well, and needed for grill-outs, but I like to stick with juicy, less dense reds over the coming summer season. Rioja comes in great for these situations, and Beronia puts out classic Rioja goodness at very reasonable price points.

I recently attended a virtual tasting with winemaker Paul Warson, a man with a serious resume, spanning renown producers and regions from Los Angeles, Santa Ynez, to Napa. In addition to his own project, he makes wines for Moraga Estate, which is a unique place and project. Located in the Bel-Air hills, this small production winery follows the traditional Bordeaux estate lineup, making an estate red and white from Bordeaux varieties. Paul seems like a great fit: “It’s fantasy land here,” he said. “I consider myself incredibly fortunate.” Yes, if you’ve heard of this winery, you probably know it’s owned by Rupert Murdoch. News and politics aside, the wines are structured, very worthy of cellar time, and undeniably high-quality.

And some value-driven bubbles and white wines round out this report. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Sparkling

2022 Bird in Hand Pinot Noir Sparkling – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $24
Deep salmon color. The nose sports a brisk, chalky appeal with floral perfume, dandelion, along with crunchy white cherries and red apples. The palate sports fine bubbles and a creamy depth that balances well with zesty acidity. The fruit tends toward crunchy red apples, wild raspberries, white cherries, which are mixed well with tones of saline, chalk dusty, white flowers, hints of rhubarb and white pepper. Some flinty minerals on the finish. Super fun, crushable, crowd-pleasing, but complex and nuances throughout. Cool stuff! (90 points IJB)

N.V. Graham Beck Brut Rosé – South Africa, Western Cape
SRP: $20
Lively salmon color. The aromas are bright and airy with flavors of raspberries, watermelon, tart strawberries, mixed with elements of yellow flowers, basil, fresh green herbs. The palate has a chalky feel on a light-bodied frame, generous bubbles, along with flavors of raspberries and watermelon. Nuances of honeysuckle, light biscuits, saline, a fun and refreshing appeal. Such a reliable producer of quality, widely-available Champagne-method bubbles with a lot of personality and value. 2/3 Pinot, 1/3 Chardonnay. (88 points IJB)

2022 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Piquette – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Rich watermelon color. A spritely, chalky, crunchy aromatic display of raspberries and crunchy red apples, with spicy, herbal goodness. The palate is taut and brisk, light-bodied, with flavors of cranberry relish and red apples. Nice kicks of spiced black tea, white pepper, floral perfume, really fun and crushable, in the best way. This new take on ancient farmer fizz is full of summertime goodness. A blend of Mourvèdre, vermentino, Cinsault, Tannat, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Négrette. (88 points IJB)

White and Rosé

2022 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Verdejo Rueda – Spain, Castilla y León, Rueda
SRP: $17
Pale lemon color. The palate is fresh and bright with limes, green apples, and a steely, perfumed, ocean spray vibe. The palate is racy and infused with salty, brisk goodness, light but not lacking in flavor, with crunchy green apples and pears, lime zest. Notes of fennel and basil add a lovely fresh, mildly spicy kick. A crisp and punchy appeal, and seems perfectly situated to a sun-roasted patio with a fresh tray of oysters overlooking an ocean, as it reminds me of just that. A delicious, value-driven, easy half-case buy for summertime, salads, and seafood. (90 points IJB)

2022 Bird in Hand Sauvignon Blanc – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $20
Pale straw color. The aromas pop with a mix of pineapple, juicy mango, honeydew melon, drizzled with lime, topped in white flowers, oregano, perfume, freshly sliced cucumbers – a lot to enjoy on the nose. Medium-bodied, pleasant mouthfeel, crisp acidity, and the fruit comes in the form of kiwi, pineapple, orange peel, love the balance, creaminess. The nuances of sliced green onion, honeysuckle, dandelion, and daisies add a lot to like, and there’s this vibrant, stony, mountain stream vibe that lingers on the finish. I was really surprised by the balance and focus in this Sauv Blanc. (91 points IJB)

2012 Moraga Vineyards Estate Bel-Air White – USA, California, South Coast, Los Angeles County
Library Release
An 11-year-old Sauv Blanc from Bel Air, California? Yep, and it is really impressive. Pretty light yellow color. The nose is so bright and vibrant, with fresh salty air, seashells, white and yellow flowers, over a bed of pure lemon and yellow pear fruit. Deep but airy, with floral meadow vibes. The palate shows a creamy, waxy texture with acidity that cuts deep through and provides refreshment. Pineapple and lemon curd fruit mixes with rich tones of honey and nougat, hints of vanilla and almond cake. Contrast that with nuances of seashells, chalk dust, and talc. Deep but vibrant, this could still age a long time. I’d love to throw this into a blind tasting with some white Bordeaux and see heads spin when it is unveiled. Impressive, age-worthy, delicious stuff. All Sauv Blanc, with 30% new French oak fermentation, then in stainless steel. (93 points IJB)

2022 Bird in Hand Pinot Noir Rosé – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $20
Bright watermelon color. So bright and inviting on the nose with fresh red apples, pretty strawberries, and cantaloupe, with a bright, spicy, floral appeal of celery seed, mint, chalk dust, floral meadows. The palate is zesty and tangy but there’s a pretty, honeyed texture and mouthfeel. Watermelon, McIntosh apple, strawberry rhubarb pie, these flavors are delicious and accentuated by effusive chalk, flint, minerals, and notes of white flowers and white pepper. Love the depth, precision, and balance here. (90+ points IJB)

2022 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Rosado – Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $13
Light salmon color. Spritely aromas of red delicious apple, wild raspberries, with white pepper, yellow flowers, hints of sea salt and freshly cut grass. There’s a nice creaminess to accentuate the vibrant acidity on the palate, with flavors of orange peel, red apple slices, wild raspberries. There’s a nice mix of spicy and floral tones interwoven with notes of talc and minerals. For a pink at this price point, there’s a lot to love here – balanced, crowd-pleasing stuff. 50/50 Garnacha and Tempranillo. (87 points IJB)

Red

2019 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Crianza – Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: 15
Deep ruby color. Aromas show fresh red cherries and wild raspberries, along with enticing notes of tobacco, sage, fallen leaves, leather, smoky earth. Medium-bodied, fresh acidity, zesty even, with smooth tannins and a crushable but complex feel. The black cherries, juicy raspberries, strawberry jam fruit mix well with nuances of leather, tar, dried roses and violets, tobacco, roasted red pepper. A lot of fun, but shows balance and complexity, too. (87 points IJB)

2018 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Reserva – Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $25
Bright light purple color. The nose shows mulled cherries, juicy raspberries, plum sauce, tossed with savory spices, tobacco leaf, notes of library dust and clay. The palate has soft tannins and moderate acidity, supporting cherry and mulled raspberry fruit. Notes of tar, tobacco, spiced tea, cracked black pepper, they add complexity and grilled food-friendly vibes. Fun and smooth but nice balance and complexity with a pleasantly smoky finish. Drinking great now. (89 points IJB)

2015 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Gran Reserva – Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $30
Deep ruby color. A delightfully dark and warm aromatic display of red and black currants, laced with graphite, smoky earth, mesquite, tobacco, grilled meats, notes of mineral and vanilla bean. The palate is rich and saucy but really fresh and inviting, with fine-grained tannins and lively acidity. The dark currant and plum fruit is tangy and complex, and mixed with notes of loamy earth, stony minerals, tobacco, anise, nuances of oak and graphite. The deep compote of fruit blends so well with these savory tones, and this has a long life ahead as well. (91 points IJB)

2017 Moraga Vineyards Estate Bel-Air Red – USA, California, South Coast, Los Angeles County
SRP: $140
Deep purple color. Wow, the nose is beautiful, with deep currant, plum back, black cherry cola, laced with smoky earth, savory spice, dried violets, tilled soil, nuanced oak and vanilla. The palate shows nice grip and structure with round-edged tannins and lively acidity. Tangy currant and rich plum fruit, smooth, deep, vibrant, and it’s tossed together well with black pepper, anise, coffee grounds, campfire, pencil lead, tar. Showing wonderfully now but this will age for a long time. No lie, this is legit Cab. All Cab, all new French oak. (92 points IJB)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

RIP, Jan Conn

Photo by Dwight Deal, Wikimedia

This one’s for Jan.

Last week, legend and pioneer Jan Conn passed away at the age of 99. Along with her husband Herb Conn, they put up a bunch of first ascents in some of the classic climbing crags in the Maryland/Virginia area. In the early 1940s, they developed what has become my home crag – Carderock, Maryland. 

Their style was amazing – they used neither harnesses nor belay devices, and would hip belay the climber on a hemp rope from atop the cliff, or lead routes using two or three pitons for protection. 

This place is special to me, and generations of climbers. I’ve thought about her and the departed Herb while climbing here –enjoying the quartz knob holds on Jan’s Face, delicately dancing on Herbie’s Horror, or cruising up Ronnie’s Leap (named after their dog who took a leap off the top – he was OK).

They also put up Conn’s East in Seneca Rock, in addition to gnarly first ascents in desert spires out West. The pair explored and mapped South Dakota’s Jewel Cave for more than 22 years and over 700 trips, and they received numerous awards for their outdoor endeavors. I recently read a post calling Jan “the oldest living dirtbag” – a term of endearment applied to scrappy, obsessive climbers who charge hard and tend to live on the fringes of society. She earned all her titles and praise, and I wish I could have met her.

In her post-climbing years, she still loved the outdoors, and once said: “Fortunately, the slower we move, the more we see.” A fitting reminder to slow down and take in the beauty of nature around us, wherever we find it. 

Carderock today, from atop Trudy's Terror

RIP, Jan, ya legend.

Wine reviews: California new releases

I’m still on a cloud from a recent trip to California. From rock-hopping, surfing, and bouldering on the Sonoma Coast, to visiting one of my favorite vineyards in the Russian River Valley (Merry Edwards), to mountaineering the high country of Mount Shasta. It was a rich and fulfilling experience. The bountiful wildflower blooms in the river valleys are something I will never forget. I know this winter season has been difficult for so many, and the snow and coming flooding will be problematic. I’m hoping for the best for you all.

But I know that, whatever Mother Nature deals out, from heat and wildfires to massive snowpack and flooding, California winegrowers and vintners are a hearty bunch. They’ll will power through, and make amazing wines.

So, this week, I want to pay respect with a mix of diverse wines from California. No further introductions needed – from known producers to value wines, they speak for themselves. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White wines and rosés

2020 Ram’s Gate Chardonnay Estate – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $76
Medium yellow color. A complex aromatic display that bounces between the richer/deeper tones (yellow apples, lemon pie, graham cracker, nougat) and bright elements (chalk dust, honeysuckle, saline), and it works so well. The palate shows a pleasant creaminess with racy acidity on a medium-bodied frame. Flavors of lemon, quince, and key lime pie, mixed with saline, minerals, crushed seashells, along with nuanced tones of honey, saltine crackers, and bread dough. Racy and vibrant throughout, a Carneros Chardonnay that might fool some for Old World in a blind tasting. (91 points)

2021 Frank Family Vineyards Chardonnay – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $40
Yellow apple skin color. The palate shows juicy yellow pears and apples, topped with honeyed white tea, almond skin, cinnamon crumb cake, but also tones of white flowers and crushed shells. Crisp acidity frames this wine well, and it has a lot of deep texture but never feels weighty. The white peach and yellow pear fruit is vibrant, and blends well with tones of honey, walnut, white tea, with some salty-mineral vibes as well. A great all-around Carneros Chardonnay that should please almost any palate. Aged nine months in 1/3 new French oak. (90 points)

2021 Ron Rubin Chardonnay Pam’s Un-Oaked – USA, California
SRP: $16
Ripe yellow color. Juicy nose of yellow apples, honey, glazed pear, nougat, with some cinnamon and honeycomb. Creamy but fresh on the palate, a fun appeal with flavors of yellow apples and pears, whipped honey and some nutshell tones. Notes of hay and white flowers add complexity to this medium-bodied wine with medium-low acidity. Nice value for a creamy, fun style. (85 points)

2022 Ehlers Estate Sauvignon Blanc – USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $38
Pale lemon color. The nose sports a ripe but nuanced mix of guava, pineapple, limes, topped in chalk and sliced cucumber, with floral and nettle nuances – lovely. The palate is fun and inviting but balanced and complex. Crisp acidity on a medium-bodied frame with beautiful depth of texture. Kiwi, guava, and lemon fruit blend well with racy minerals, white and yellow flowers, and a springy, spritely appeal throughout. Such personality, precision, and value – a Napa Sauv Blanc worth seeking out for sure. (92 points)

2022 Ehlers Estate Sylviane Rosé – USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $38
Deep watermelon color. The nose is so crisp and perfumed, with a spring meadow packed with flowers, along with chalk dust, watermelon rind, wild raspberries, and minty-dandelion tones – wow! Deep but crunchy texture on the palate, with flavors of pomegranate, white cherries, watermelon. The complexities dance nicely, with floral, herbs, mint, minerals. An impressive highly pleasing pink with a lot of nuances to parse through – or just chill and crush a glass. 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 14% Cab Franc and 5% Malbec. (91 points)

Red wines

2021 Balverne Pinot Noir Forever Wild – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Bright ruby color. The nose is a red-fruited compote of cherries, raspberries, and tangy strawberries, laced with tones of dried rose petals, dusty earth, warm clay, nuances of white pepper and rhubarb. The palate shows delightful tannins and crisp acidity that balance wonderfully off each other. Flavors of juicy strawberries and tangy red cherries, laced with notes of rhubarb, tobacco, with a lot of pretty, mineral vibes and undertones. A generous but precise interpretation that is delicious now but will age well over the coming years as well. (92 points)

2020 Ram’s Gate Pinot Noir Estate – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $85
Vibrant ruby color. The nose is a floral, red-fruited, delightful blend of cherries, raspberries, rhubarb, rose petals, with tomato leaf and all sorts of herbal nuances. The palate is a sleek but deep affair with crisp acidity and dusty tannins, and plenty of tangy raspberry and black cherry fruit. Nuances of tobacco, white pepper, warm clay, rhubarb, loamy earth – there’s a lot to coax out with air and swirling. Delightful now, but I’d love to see this in three to five years with a duck dish. Expressive, attractive Pinot, per usual from Ram’s Gate. (93 points)

2021 Frank Family Vineyards Pinot Noir – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $40
Medium ruby color. Ooh, such an inviting nose of raspberries and juicy black cherries, along with rhubarb, cola, dried roses, even some minty-tobacco notes – a lot blended together really well. Ripe and juicy on the palate, with raspberry jam and tang black cherries, over suave tannins and a lively acidity that keeps things going forward. Complex tones of roasted chestnut, tobacco, lavender, dried roses. This is easy-drinking and fun but shows serious complexity and poise as well. Such value here, and an impressively “real” Pinot Noir for this price point. (91 points)

2021 Ron Rubin Cabernet Sauvignon Pam’s Un-Oaked – USA, California
SRP: $16
Ripe ruby color. A pleasant burst of raspberries and strawberries on the nose, along with rose petals, some clove, mint, cola, and milk chocolate. On the palate, this sports soft tannins, medium-low acidity, and a fun, jammy appeal of raspberries and red plums. Ripe and fun with floral tones and coffee, some subtle earth and roasted chestnut. Smooth, crowd-pleasing, accessible Cabernet at a solid price. (86 points)

2019 Balverne Cabernet Sauvignon Forever Wild – USA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $48
Vibrant purple color. Beautiful concentration on the nose, it exudes an inviting mix of deep plums, currants, with cocoa, coffee, and earthy tones of roasted red bell pepper and mint. The palate shows a smooth and velvety appeal, with a deep textural feel and plenty of dusty, mineral vibes, which accent the dark currant and black cherry fruit. Notes of earth, savory spices, black tea, anise, and charcoal add complexity. This is a great example of the nuance and vibrancy that can be achieved with Chalk Hill Cabernet, and I’d love to revisit this in a few years. Seek out! Includes 9% Petit Verdot, 9% Malbec, 3% Cabernet Franc. (92 points)

2018 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Ultimate Red – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $65
Deep purple color. The nose shows gorgeous currants, black cherries, and cassis, with evocative notes of pepper, sage, menthol, mint, and a host of earthy, gravelly, stony aromas that need time so show their full effect. The palate shows tart, welcome acidity, framing the grippy tannins well, and sporting a dark core of currants, plums, and black cherries. Such freshness in the fruit, and the complexities abound: mint, charcoal, rocky earth, pencil shavings, black pepper, violet potpourri. This will benefit from age, but the young expressiveness is impressive. A 2019 Napa classic that drinks like a wine two or three times its price. Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. (93+ points)

2018 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Audax – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $120
Vibrant purple color. Such an inviting nose, with dark, tangy currants and plums, plenty of savory nuances (tar, tobacco, pepper) with herbal earthy tones (tobacco, eucalyptus, red pepper flakes) – a lot of fun to swirl and sniff. The palate is framed with fresh acidity and grippy tannins that show the more refined edges. The fruit is a tangy, lovely compote of black cherries and currants, and mixes well with tones of anise, black pepper, rose petals. Plenty of earthy, stony, Napa goodness, and the nuances of cocoa and oak and woven in expertly. Open and expressive now (I’d decant for sure), but holding off for five to seven will result in an awesome experience. Cabernet with dabs of Petit Verdot and Merlot. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine reviews: International grab bag

I’m back this week with a handful of diverse and interesting wines from wildly different regions.

From the U.S., a value-driven Oregon Pinot offers a lot to like, and I revisit a Texas producer that plays by their own rules.

Sangiovese is such an absurdly versatile grape, and I have such respect for those winemakers in different Italian regions who have spent centuries dialing in the nuances. Tuscany has so many big-name (and expensive) regions, so I’m always looking for unique, terroir-driven expressions, and have enjoyed digging into the Montecucco region. Located between Morellino di Scansano and Brunello di Montalcino, on the slopes of Monte Amiata, this appellation is only a quarter of a century old. But these ancient sites produce wines of a vibrant, mineral-driven, bright-fruited focus, and show a nuanced interpretation of this grape. And the value is really impressive.

From Rioja Alta, the wines of Ramon Bilbao always deliver for me. Founded in 1924, their entry-level wine is a good introduction, but the Reserva and Gran Reserve featured this week are beautiful expressions of their region. Considering the complexity and age-worthy qualities in these two, the price tags are exciting.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted, except for the Montecucco wines, which were tasted single-blind.

2021 Trivento Malbec Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Light purple color. The nose sports sweet, saucy plums and raspberry jam, with some light roast coffee, light pepper, along with some savory smoky and mesquite tones. The palate shows soft tannins and medium acidity, a fresh and fun appeal, with flavors of raspberry and plum jams. Saucy and fun with notes of cola and coffee. A solid value Malbec, and one the rare widely-available, grocery store wines that delivers a lot of personality and realness. (87 points)

2020 C.L. Butaud Cease & Desist - USA, Texas, Texas High Plains
SRP: $48
Deep ruby color. A yummy nose of jammy raspberries and sweet black cherries, backed up by complex notes of violets, clay, black tea, spicy herbs – it’s all so warm and inviting. The palate shows surprisingly crisp acidity, which is fantastic, backed up but suave tannins and juicy, tangy raspberries and black cherries, saucy plums. I love the spicy complexity, with these paprika, pepper, sage, dusty earth, charcoal. Fun but deep and complex, this blend of Cinsault, Counoise, Tempranillo, and Grenache. Definitely worth checking out if you’d like to explore some tasty Texas red blends. (90 points)

2021 Firesteed Pinot Noir - USA, Oregon
SRP: $17
Bright ruby color. Aromas jump with juicy cherries and strawberry jams, along with rhubarb pie, spiced tea, white pepper, and some herbal nuances. Medium-bodied, light tannins, moderate acidity, this has a friendly, balanced, appeal, and shows farmer’s market fruit in terms of crunchy red apples and tangy strawberries. Nuances of rhubarb, white pepper, earth, tobacco – it’s rare to find a Pinot of this personality and realness at this price point. Aged in French oak (15% new) and stainless steel. (88 points)

2017 Campogiovanni (San Felice) Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
SRP: $62
Light purple color. Such a complex and vibrant aromatic display, with tart currants, tangy plums, and raspberries, along with dusty earth, dried flowers, smoky earth, tobacco, and anise. The palate shows nice grip on the tannins but crisp acidity and a fresh appeal. Flavors of mulled cherries, cranberry relish, along with tar, pepper, earth, and plenty of savory mushroom, soy, dried flowers and minerals. Gorgeous complexity, with plenty of floral-earthy complexity on the finish. Refined already, but I’d love to see this in three to five years. (93+ points)

2018 Le Pianore Montecucco Rosso Tiniatus - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $34
Deep ruby color. The aromas are vibrant and inviting with bright red cherries and raspberries, laced with savory herbs and spices, some earthy tones and minty, rocky vibes. The palate shows accessible, dusty tannins and lively acidity, with a fresh and juicy appeal. Tart red and black cherries and currants mix well with plenty of spices and savory notes (black pepper, dried roses, beef broth). Has an easy-drinking approach but plenty of complexity and nuance. Sangiovese with some Merlot, aged six months in a mix of stainless steel and French oak. (89 points)

2018 Peteglia Montecucco Sangiovese - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $25

Ruby colored with a nose of tangy red fruits (raspberries and tart cherries), along with mesquite, warm clay, fresh mint, and some tar and tobacco tones – such a savory and fun wine to sniff. Dusty tannins, medium-plus acidity, with tangy cherry and red plum fruit. The mouthfeel is really balanced, and this wine is so expressive in its herbal and floral complexity, with notes of roses, incense, mulling spices. Pretty, integrated, this shows a lot of value and personality. Needs a big hearty meal and a crowd of loved ones. Great now but will keep the integration going in the cellar. 100% Sangiovese. (91 points)

2016 Tenuta L'Impostino Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva “Viandante” - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $35
Vibrant ruby colored. Deep cherries and warm currant compote on the nose, complex and inviting with lovely notes of roasted red pepper, tobacco, sage, dried roses, violets, and potting soil. The palate shows solid but integrated tannic structure that balances wonderfully with mouthwatering acidity. Tangy currants and cherry jam mixed with mulling spices, chewing tobacco, clay and earth tones, and there’s this streak of dusty minerality that pervades the wine. Floral and spice rub complexities round out the finish – there’s a lot going on here. It’s in a pretty place now but has lots more to show. Aged two years in French oak barriques. (92 points)

2018 Poggio Stenti Montecucco Rosso Riserva “Tribulo” - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $29
A bright ruby color. The nose sports chilled cherries and raspberries, spicy tobacco, with nuanced earth, fallen leaves, and clay, rose petals. The palate shows a juicy, fresh mix of raspberries and cherries on a frame of dusty tannins and crisp acidity. The fruit plays well off these savory tones of tar, leather, smoked meats, and these dried flowers and black pepper. Structured but nuanced, focused and clear, this will age well but is already friendly and accessible. Sangiovese and Cabernet – a lot of value in here, too. (90+ points)

2016 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
SRP: $27
Light purple color. The nose exudes a deep sense of plum sauce, blackberries, and tart pomegranate, along with spiced berry tea, dried violets, sage and brushy, rocky, sun-roasted hillside vibes. Beautiful balance on the palate, with dusty tannins and crisp acidity, with a chewy but fresh feel, deep cherries, and strawberries. There are a lot of delicious nuances packed in there with the fruit as well: warm clay, garden soil, spicy herbs, with minty, dark chocolate, and smoky vibes. This is pretty stuff with a long life ahead. From 40-year-old vines aged 20 months in American oak. (91 points)

2014 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
SRP: $37
Vibrant ruby color. A complex aromatic display of juicy raspberries, red cherries, with rhubarb, spiced tea, smoky earth and tar, charcoal and graphite vibes, and a nice floral potpourri thing going on, too. The palate has solid grip with fine-grained tannins, supporting ripe black cherries and raspberry jam. There’s a lovely blend of mulling spices, tobacco, spicy mint, warm clay, loamy earth, hints of oak. Stays fresh throughout, with all sorts of pretty nuances to coax out, and lingering minerality and floral tones on the finish. Ready to go now, but I’d bury a few and forget about them for five or six. From 60+ year-old vines, aged 30 months in American oak. (92+ points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.