Santa Ynez Producer Kita Continues to Excel

The Camp 4 Vineyard in California's Santa Ynez Valley. Credit: Kita Wines.

I’ve been a big fan of Tara Gomez’s Kita wines for a few years now, and the new releases are true to form.

These wines are mostly sourced from the Camp 4 Vineyard, a former Fess Parker vineyard located on the eastern edge of the Santa Ynez Valley. (For a full backgrounder, check out this post from last year.) While the wines boast plenty of fruit and ripeness, there’s a vibrant, fresh, complex aesthetic in all of the wines that I find really attractive, not to mention the price points.

I recently tasted through a range of Kita’s wines (their 2017 whites, and some reds from 2015 and 2016) and was impressed yet again. These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2017 KITÁ Sauvignon Blanc Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $24
Pale yellow color. Lovely aromas of lemon, apricot, white peach, with steely, floral tones, baby’s breath and lemon verbena. Medium-bodied, pleasantly plump, creamy but bright. Kiwi, lemon, pineapple, the fruit is mixed with honey, almond, floral perfume, subtle notes of lemon verbena and jalapeno. Fresh but generous and highly delicious. (90 points)

2017 KITÁ T'aya Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $22
Lemon color. Nose showed salted almond, brisk salty tones, chalk dust, on top of sour apples, lemon curd and pineapple. Crisp acidity frames the palate, and the wine has a pleasant chalky texture with flavors of white peach, lemons, green apples. Complex notes of honeysuckle, honeycomb, candle wax, a salty, honeyed tea element too. Lively but generous. 50% Marsanne, 44% Roussanne and 6% Grenache Blanc, aged 7 months in 20% new French oak. (91 points)

2017 KITÁ Chardonnay Hilliard Bruce Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $30
Pale lemon color. Nose shows limes, apricots, along with dusty seashells, raw almond, hay and chalky/floral notes. So crisp and steely, salty, too, Chablis-esque appeal with bracing acidity and stony minerals. Lemon, limes, green apples, mixed with hay, almond, white flowers, and complex elements of crushed chalk. Lovely, vibrant style, complex and it should do some really cool things in the next few years. Aged 7 months in French oak, 15% new. (92 points)

2017 KITÁ Grenache Rosé Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $18
Medium salmon color. Aromas of strawberries, raspberries, nettle, basil, white pepper. Crisp and dry on the palate, this is a fresh and tangy rose with white cherries, red apple and watermelon fruit. Spicy, floral, herbal notes (rhubarb, white pepper, spiced apples). Delicious, vibrant, spicy, crisp rose. (89 points)

2015 KITÁ Pinot Noir Hilliard Bruce Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $55
Light ruby color. Aromas of tangy strawberries, sour cherries, red apple, with notes of spicy herbs, white pepper and rhubarb. Medium-bodied with tangy, crisp acidity and dusty tannins. A vibrant, lip-smacking approach, with crunchy red apples, strawberries, raspberries. Dusty, herbal, peppery notes add complexity, with some mushroom as well. Tart throughout, no jammy fruit here, this is elegant and so bright. Love it. Aged 18 months in 20% new French oak. (93 points)

2015 KITÁ Spe'y Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $30
Light ruby color. Aromas of spicy herbal tea, clove, white pepper, rose petals, all whipped up together with raspberries and red apple peel. Medium-bodied frame, silky yet structured, so crisp with tart raspberries, red cherries, hints of blackberry. Complex flavors of clove, leather, roses, grilled herbs, with some underlying iron and mineral tones. Vibrant, exciting Grenache-based blend, with 25% Carignan and 23% Syrah, aged 18 months in 25% new French oak. (92 points)

2016 KITÁ Syrah Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $30
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of black cherries, saucy plums, lots of smoke, barbecue spice rub, pepper and leather. Crisp acidity on the palate (like all wines from this vineyard it seems), but dusty tannins. Tart black cherries, spicy red currants, loaded with smoky charcoal, leather, roasted red pepper, cracked black pepper. Such a pretty, complex wine, gorgeous now but should age well over the next five years. Aged 18 months in French oak, 30% new. (92 points)

2015 KITÁ Cabernet Sauvignon Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $40
Rich purple color. Gorgeous waves of tart cherries, black and red currants, summer plums, mixed with eucalyptus, wild rosemary, tobacco and cedar/coffee notes. Medium-bodied (13.5%) with vibrant acidity and velvety but structured tannins. Crunchy black currants, tangy red cherries, gushing plums, the fruit is matched with notes of smoky tobacco, eucalyptus, roasted bell pepper and espresso. Complex but vibrant, showing well now but can cellar for at least a half-dozen years. Aged in 40% new French oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Summer Sippers to Beat the Heat

It’s the middle of summer, so this week I’m highlighting a range of white and rosés, and an amber (or orange) wine to keep things cool.

The pink wave of American obsession with rosé is still going strong, and it seems each year I see more rosé wine than the last year. Especially during summertime, we love to drink pink wine. I’ve received a handful of rosé wines since I covered my first batch a few months ago, and found quite a few goodies.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

White Wines

2017 Trefethen Riesling Dry – USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll
SRP: $26
Very pale straw color. Aromas burst out of the glass with lemons, limes, chalk dust, cut flower stems, baby’s breath. Crisp and so zesty, dry and bracing but plenty of vibrant fruit (lime, peach, guava). Complex elements of chalk dust, limestone, mountain stream, honeysuckle. Add in some cucumber slices and a hint of tennis ball, with lots of minerals on the finish. A lovely dry California Riesling that I’d love to re-taste in four or five years. Sourced from Main Ranch Vineyard. (91 points)

2017 Chateau Montelena Riesling - USA, California, North Coast, Potter Valley
SRP: $27
Pale lemon color. A rich and plump aromatic display (orange, white peach, pineapple) along with yellow flowers, honeycomb, white tea, a stony-minty element as well. Plump and juicy fruit, this is richer and more tropical than I remember previous vintages, but it’s tropical and delicious (white peaches, cantaloupe, pineapple) with some drizzled lime on there. White flowers, chalky, spritely and fresh with some mineral and nettle notes and a honeyed finish. So surprised, year after year, at this wine. (91 points)

2017 Gamble Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Gamble Vineyard – USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. The nose boasts bright white and yellow flowers, with green apples and yellow pears, a hint of sea salt. Creamy texture on the palate, this is fresh and crisp with a tangy, salty hint. Green apples and pears, lemon curd, the fruit mixes with honeysuckle, chalk dust, mineral and a hint of lemon verbena. Bright but textured, almost velvety, loving the depth and freshness combo here. Fermented mostly in old French oak, with a bit of new, and some stainless steel. (90 points)

2017 Sanctuary Vineyards Albariño Pearl – USA, North Carolina, Outer Banks
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Aromas of guava, peach, honey and floral tones, with sea salt notes. Rich and peachy with apricots and lemon, this is plumper, richer style but well done, interesting interpretation of this grape. Waxy, honeyed notes to the apricot and peach, but there’s still plenty of flowers and sea salt. Nice effort from North Carolina! (85 points)

Amber and Rosé

2017 Troon Vineyard Riesling Whole Grape Ferment – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $20

Pale gold/amber color. Nose bursts with yellow flowers, honey, candle wax, almond, sea salt, topped on top of bright limes and apricot. Bright and crisp on the palate but the textural richness is awesome, and there are these chalky, dusty elements that I love. Flavors of limes and candied orange peel, mixed with almond, ginger, dried honey, wax. Complex, elegant, deliciousness. 11.6% alcohol, almost bone dry, this is an exciting and delicious orange wine. (92 points)

N.V. Amelia Crémant de Bordeaux Rosé Brut - France, Bordeaux, Crémant de Bordeaux
SRP: $20
Pale copper color. Subtle aromas of white flowers, tangy strawberries and white cherries. Crisp and bright on the palate with high acid and a light, tangy appeal. White cherries, red apple peel flavors. Steely and light, budget and picnic-friendly. Made from Merlot and Cabernet Franc. (85 points)

2017 Tasca D'Almerita Sicilia Le Rose di Regaleali - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $15
Deep copper color. Nose of nectarines, peaches, apricots, lots of blossoms and spiced white tea, a sea salt note. Punchy and juicy but tangy on the palate with crisp, salty, oceanic influences throughout. Juicy nectarines, blood orange, yellow plums, along with notes of roses and spiced tea. This is delicious rose of Nerello Mascalese, and a total steal at this price. (89 points)

2017 Copain Pinot Noir Tous Ensemble Rosé - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $25
Deep copper color. Aromas of roses, lilies, sweet melon, nectarine, with hints of sea spray and chalk dust. Crisp and lip-smacking acidity, so lively, with a nice streak of mineral, chalk and saline throughout. Tart red apple with juicy white peaches and cantaloupe. Tangy, spicy, with floral complexity that lingers on the finish. Delightful Pinot Noir rose. (89 points)

2017 Cambria Pinot Noir Rosé Julia's Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $18
Bright pink color. Nose boasts peaches, spicy wild strawberries, watermelon and some white pepper. Plump, richly-textured, and juicy on the palate with medium acidity. Lots of watermelon, strawberry and red apple fruit. Fruit-forward style with notes of roses, cherry blossoms. All Pinot Noir. (87 points)

2017 Sidebar Cellars Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $21
Deep copper/light raspberry color. Ripe peaches, juicy strawberries, some spiced cranberry relish, along with white flowers and white pepper note. Bold texture with plenty of fruit (white peaches, mango, strawberry) yet bright acidity. The fruit is so juicy and pretty but I love these white pepper and rhubarb elements as well. Delicious stuff. 100% Syrah. (89 points)

2017 WillaKenzie Estate Rosé - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
SRP: $21
Pale copper color. Super floral on the nose with cut stems, orange blossoms, lilies, nettle, along with peaches galore. Precise acidity from start to finish, dry and tangy, minerality throughout. White cherries, juicy peaches and nectarine topped in rose hips and orange blossoms. Floral, fresh, lovely balance and depth, this is very pretty stuff. Pinot Noir with 3% Pinot Meunier and 2% Pinot Blanc. (90 points)

2017 Veritas Vineyard Rosé - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $20
Medium watermelon color. Aromas of strawberries and white cherries, rose hips and roses, orange blossoms, honeysuckle. Medium-bodied on the palate with a plush and fruity appeal, raspberries and orange blossoms, honeysuckle. Floral and fruity, spicy and herbal, so fresh and lively but it sports significant depth. Lovely Virginia pink from Veritas. (88 points)

<85 points

2017 Concha y Toro Shiraz Rosé Casillero del Diablo - Chile
SRP: $8
Pale copper color. Aromas of strawberries and white cherries, along with roses, nettle, lemon meringue, crushed sweet tart candies. Light and bright with high acid, tart lemon and watermelon rind fruit. Notes of rose hips, rhubarb, sliced cucumber. Light and simple, a blend of Syrah, Cinsault and Carmenere.

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Herdade do Mouchão & the Apex of Alicante Bouschet

The exceptional Alentejo producer Herdade do Mouchão still operates in the original winery, built in 1901.

You’d never find it if you weren’t searching for it. Leaving the small Alentejo village of Estremoz, you pass copses of cork trees before pulling onto a bumpy, winding dirt road littered with boar tracks. Tucked back alongside a sleepy creek bed, Herdade do Mouchão is one of the most memorable wineries I’ve ever visited.

Here, in the Alentejo region of southern Portugal, the Herdade do Mouchão winery seems frozen in time. Oporto resident Thomas Reynolds moved to this rural and largely untouched region around the turn of the 20th Century, mostly to get into the flourishing cork business. He planted vines and built a winery in 1901. A distillery was added in 1929 to produce brandy, and his descendants planted more vines throughout the middle of the 20th Century. Following Portugal’s revolution in 1974, the state expropriated the estate, which deteriorated until it was returned to the family in 1985.

Herdade do Mouchão ages its top wines in old and large (500-liter) casks made of mahogany.

That original winery (which operated without electricity until 1991!) is still in use today, and defines the aesthetic and purpose of Herdade do Mouchão in the 21st Century. The estate is currently run by Elizabeth (daughter of former winemaker Albert Hugh Reynolds) and Iain Richardson. On a June trip to this estate, Iain told me his goal is to preserve that special history. “We want to keep it that way,” he said. “We want to make wines the old way.”

And every aspect of the winemaking here harkens back to a time long past. “There’s really not much sophistication,” Iain said, describing the winemaking style as “rudimentary, in the best sense of the word.” The winery uses only estate grapes, sourced from 40 hectares of vines. (The rest of the massive 1,000 hectare estate is mostly cork forests, with about 50 hectares of olive trees as well.

The grapes are hand harvested and dumped through old wooden windows into large cement fermentation tubs, called lagares, and workers stomp the grapes with their bare feet twice a day for about a week. Some of the wines are then transferred to stainless steel or small oak barrels, some of the only signs of relatively modern technology, while the high-end wines are aged in old 500-liter vats, made from mahogany wood.

While the winery produces some white wine (a blend of indigenous Portuguese varieties), the lynchpin of Herdade do Mouchão is the Alicante Bouschet grape. This grape was created in France in the 1860s, when Henri Bouschet crossed the grape Petite Bouschet (itself a cross between two obscure varieties) with Grenache. Alentejo became the grape’s adopted home, however, largely due to the efforts of Herdade do Mouchão.

Iain Richardson shows off the estate's oldest Alicante Bouschet vines, which go into the estate's flagship bottling.

The grape flourished after the outbreak of phylloxera, when winemakers found its relatively high yields to be an attractive pursuit. The grape ripens early and has a rare dark-colored pulp, so finished wines contain not only color from the grape skins, but from the juice itself. Alicante can produce wines with high alcohol and strong tannins, but the best growers know how to harness greatness from this grape. And, it seems to me, Herdade do Mouchão is the apex of Alicante.

For the winery’s Dom Rafael red blend, Iain blends in Trincadeira and Aragonez (aka Tempranillo) with Alicante, while the winery’s flagship wine, Mouchão, is made up of about 90% Alicante Bouschet with some Trincadeira. I was only able to taste one vintage of this glorious wine, the 2013, but it was easily the “greatest” wine I tasted on the trip. Delicious, fascinating, unique, and capable of aging decades, easily. Mouchão also produces a Port-style fortified Alicante Bouschet that is also amazing.

Below, I’ve included tasting notes on all the wines I tasted while visiting with Iain.

Winemaker Iain Richardson is an Alicante wizard.

2017 Herdade do Mouchão Dom Rafael Branco
This was one of the most surprising wines of the trip for me, as I was expecting a basic entry-level white and found an exciting, complex, thrilling wine. So floral and bright on the nose with lemons, apricots, crust sea salt, cucumber slices, baby's breath. Medium-bodied palate, rich texture but so crisp and lively, with a deep, underlying mineral presence. Lemon, lime, apricot, topped in lemon verbena, honeysuckle, baby's breath. Chalky finish. Wow. Antão Vaz, Arinto, Perrum and Fernão Pires. (91 points)

2015 Herdade do Mouchão Dom Rafael Tinto
As I tasted this, I thought: If this is the entry-level red, I am in for a serious treat. This is exceptionally good, fresh, inviting, complex yet so easy to drink. Floral (violets and roses) on the nose, with raspberries, black cherries, pepper and earth, gorgeous stuff. Bold presence but so balanced on the palate, built well but medium acidity. Juicy black cherry fruit laced with roses, bay leaf and black pepper. Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira and Aragonez. (90 points)

2014 Herdade do Mouchão Ponte das Canas
Gorgeous depth of fruit on the nose (blackberry, black cherry, plum) along with complex earth, tar, pepper, violets. Structured with grippy tannins yet fresh acidity on the palate, the balance is so nice. Black cherries and plums mix wonderfully with roasted herbs, coffee, iron, black pepper. Long finish with earth and minerals. Concentrated yet not harsh, this will age 5-8 years easily. Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Syrah, aged in 300-liter French oak barrels for 24 months, aged a year in bottle before release. (92 points)

2013 Herdade do Mouchão
Oh my god this wine is fantastic. I could not believe my senses, it was that good. Incredible depth on the nose: blackberry, blueberry, black cherry, with complex violets, leather, incense sticks, rosemary, mint - just endless nuance on the nose. Concentrated, rich, deep on the palate, this is incredibly young but the quality is undeniable. Tannic yet somehow velvety, big yet somehow not too heavy. Blackberry, blueberry, black cherry, the fruit is pure, vibrant, complex, layered. Complex elements of loam, scorched earth, black pepper, incense sticks, bay leaf, mushroom. Deep earthy-mineral tones. This could be aged for three decades or something, it has that level of depth. Alicante Bouschet with about 10% Trincadeira. The wine of the trip for me. (96 points)

2012 Herdade do Mouchão Alentejo Vinho Licoroso
Really solid fortified Alicante Bouschet from Mouchao. On the nose, I get blueberries, fig cookies, roasted plums, candied pecans, clove. Rich texture, tannins are grippy but have rounded edges, little bit of acidity helps it stay moving. Warm, sweet but woven together well, delicious plum cake, blackberry jam and roasted figs. I get notes of coconut, cinnamon, cocoa powder, sweet espresso. Earthy, charcoal notes on the finish. Very impressed with this wine. (92 points)

Lots of Good Wine from Argentina <$20

This week’s wines hail from Argentina and all should retail for less than $20. With plenty of prime grilling season left, there are a lot of delicious reds in here that would fare well with grilled meats and crowds of friends and family.

Included in this report are four wines from Domaine Bousquet, whose wines are line-priced at $13, widely available, and deliver for the price. In the mostly Malbec category, two producers Ruca Malén and Nieto Senetiner, also offer value-driven wines that provide a whole lot of stuffing for the sub-$20 price points.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2018 Domaine Bousquet Chardonnay - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $13
Light yellow color. Steely aromas, lively and bright with yellow flowers on top of limes and guava. Plush yet crisp with lemon, white peach, yellow apple. Notes of chalk and floral perfume with some wild herb notes. Fresh and vibrant, seafood-friendly style, good for the price. (86 points)

2018 Domaine Bousquet Rosé - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $13
Pale strawberry color. Tangy white cherries, strawberries, salted lime, hints of cucumber, white pepper and cut flower stems. Crisp and lively on the palate with brisk acid and some juicy white cherries, raspberries, strawberries. I get notes of white pepper, sliced cucumber, rhubarb, raspberry leaf. Fun and fresh and quite impressive for the price. A blend of Malbec, Cab Sauv, with some Sauv Blanc and Pinot Gris mixed in. (87 points)

2017 Domaine Bousquet Cabernet Sauvignon - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $13
Bright purple color. Aromas of black cherries, juicy red currants, with smoke and leathery notes. Full-bodied, moderate tannins, fresh acidity, this is a velvety but tangy wine with black cherries and crunchy dark plums. Some notes of smoke and dark earth add complexity. Surprising complexity for a wine at this price point. (87 points)

2017 Domaine Bousquet Malbec - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $13

Bold purple color. Nose shows juicy plums, rich blackberries, with vanilla, cocoa and sweet cedar notes. Medium-bodied, smooth tannins and moderating acidity, with jammy raspberry and blackberry fruit. Delicious and very nice for the price. (86 points)

2017 Bodegas Nieto Senetiner Malbec - Argentina, Mendoza, Lujan de Cuyo, Vistalba
SRP: $13
Bright purple color. Juicy nose of blackberries and blueberry jam with mint, vanilla and loamy earth. Saucy and plush on the palate with smooth tannins and fresh acidity, supporting blueberry and blackberry fruit. Notes of violets, cocoa and cedar mix together nicely. Pleasant, crowd-pleasing stuff. (86 points)

2015 Bodegas Nieto Senetiner Blend Collection - Argentina, Mendoza, Lujan de Cuyo
SRP: $15
Light purple color. Smoky nose with scorched earth and eucalyptus on top of blackberries and dark currants. Tangy on the palate with some bite to the tannins, and saucy black fruits. Loaded with smoky herbs, espresso, dark chocolate and charcoal. A bit tightly wound but moderating acidity is attractive. Malbec with 35% Cabernet Franc and 15% Petit Verdot. (87 points)

2016 Bodegas Nieto Senetiner Malbec Don Nicanor - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $18
Bright purple color. Dark and smoky with plums, black cherry, dark and saucy but really spicy too, with black pepper, sage and scorched earth. Bold presence with dark and rich fruit (blackberries and black cherries) on a frame of dusty tannins, kept alive with tangy acidity, which keeps the lips smacking. Notes of black pepper, leather, coffee, cedar and clove. Really fun for the price, food-friendly and interesting. (88 points)

2015 Bodega Ruca Malén Petit Verdot Terroir Series - Argentina, Mendoza, Lujan de Cuyo, Agrelo
SRP: $18
Deep purple color. Deep aromas of tangy black currants and dark plums, along with anise, magic marker and scorched earth. Solid grip on the palate, dry tannins, but tangy acid frames it nicely Crunchy black cherries, tangy black currant, the fruit is dark but fresh and laced with notes of smoke, pine sap, charcoal, anise. So spicy, with a finish showing clove and cedar. Could use a decant and some grilled steak, but this is really impressive for the price. All Petit Verdot aged in a mix of used and new French and American oak for 12 months. (90 points)

2015 Bodega Ruca Malén Malbec Terroir Series - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $18
Deep ruby color. The nose shows tart raspberry and rich black cherry, along with roses, and a soapy-floral note. Medium/full-bodied structured quite nicely with medium tannins, but the tangy acidity keeps this wine so lively. Tart red currant, roasted fig, black cherry, the fruit is mixed with notes of tobacco, cove, clay and graphite. Very nice depth yet finishes fresh and floral. All Malbec aged 12 months in a mix of new and used French and American oak. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Standard-Bearing Wines from Chile's Concha y Toro

Concha y Toro fascinates me as a business enterprise. It’s Chile’s biggest wine producer, one of the largest wine companies in the world, and it exports millions of cases of its Casillero del Diablo wine to countries all over the world. It was those wines, and the Marques de Casa Concha brands, that introduced me to Chilean wines a dozen or so years ago. But corporate success aside, the wines are delicious and accessible. 

From entry-level all the way up to the incredible (and expensive) Don Melchor Cabernet, Concha y Toro casts a wide net, with brands at different price points, focusing on different regions. I recently received a handful of Concha y Toro wines (no Don Melchor this time, alas) and found what I usually do when I taste these wines: significant quality and value. 

I also tasted several Carmeneres from different regions and price points, and was reminded again how fun that variety is. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2016 Concha y Toro Chardonnay Marqués de Casa Concha - Chile, Limarí Valley
SRP: $22
Bright yellow color. Bright aromas of lemons and limes, with sea salt, nettle, with salted almond and nougat. Crisp yet plump, full but fresh, with creamy, white peach, yellow apples, drizzled with lime. Notes of sea salt and almond mix with honey and toasted biscuits. Harmonious and balanced, impressive for the price, as is usually the case with wines from this line. 12 months in French oak. (89 points)

2016 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Marqués de Casa Concha - Chile, Maipo Valley, Puente Alto
SRP: $25
Rich purple color. Dark and saucy waves of currants, plums and black cherries, along with loamy earth, sweet pipe tobacco, menthol, vanilla. Full-bodied with velvety, chewy tannins and tart dark fruit (currants and blueberry), with flavors of scorched earth, coffee. A bold but vibrant wine that could improve for a few years. Includes 5% Syrah and 4% Cabernet Franc, aged 16 months in French oak. (89 points) 

2016 Concha y Toro Carménère Gran Reserva Serie Riberas - Chile, Rapel Valley, Cachapoal Valley, Peumo
SRP: $17
Aromas boast spicy green herbs, charcoal pit, black pepper, sliced bell pepper, along with smoky currants, blackberries and plums. Nicely balanced with fresh acidity and velvety tannins, mixed with tart black cherries and currants. Flavors of coffee grounds, charcoal, grilled herbs and tobacco. Impressive complexity for a wine at this price point. (88 points) 

2016 Concha y Toro Carménère Marqués de Casa Concha - Chile, Rapel Valley
SRP: $25
Spicy herbal nose with black olive and chewing tobacco on top of black cherries and red and black currants. Plush texture on the palate, medium acidity keeps it fresh, this is a plummy, black cherry jam-focused wine with complex elements of tobacco, roasted red pepper, black tea and grilled herbs. A reliably well-made wine. (88 points) 

2016 Concha y Toro Carménère Terrunyo - Chile, Rapel Valley, Cachapoal Valley, Peumo
SRP: $40
Nose shows bold black cherries and dark currant fruit, with a mix of black pepper, campfire smoke, green herbs and roasted red pepper. Dusty tannins and fresh acidity frame the wine nicely, with smoky currants and juicy black cherries provide plenty to munch on. Notes of tobacco, scorched earth, spicy black pepper and green herbs add complexity. Delish. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

The Exceptional Alentejo Wines of Susana Esteban

In June, I spent a week digging into the wines and culture of Alentejo, a fascinating and historic winegrowing region of southern Portugal. I visited lots of wineries, tasted tons of really good wine, but if I had to name a favorite, easy: Susana Esteban. 

Most of the wine-growing regions of Alentejo feature sun-roasted rolling hills, cork forests, mixed in with fields of cereals, grazing livestock, and the scattered village or town. Susana Esteban sources her fruit from higher elevation sites in the Portalegre area of Alentejo. This is in the northeast part of Alentenjo, near the Serra de Sao Mamede National Park, which abuts the Spanish border. 

Spanish by birth, Susana has worked as a consulting winemaker in the Douro and Alentejo before starting her own project, Procura, in 2011. The idea, as she explained it to me on a recent trip, was to focus on “small quantity, high quality.” After tasting her wines, I can say with enthusiasm that the quality is indeed very high. 

She tracked down some exceptional fruit for her wines: a hilly site that sits about 700 meters above sea level in granite and schist soils. An old school vineyard, different indigenous Portuguese varieties are inter-planted in a field blend style, and some of the vines are 80 years old. “When I found this vineyard,” she explained during my visit, “I can’t believe it still exists here.”

She sources fruit from other sites for her entry-level Aventura wines (which I found excellent for the price). The grapes for Susana’s wines are hand-harvested, and she ferments her wine in a mix of stainless steel and large, old oak barrels, always aiming, she says, for “freshness.” Susana only produces some 30,000 bottles of wine a year, but the wines are imported into the U.S. by the Spanish Acquisition and Ideal Wine & Spirits. 

If you ever see a wine with her name on it, pay close attention. These are thrilling, dynamic, unique wines that stun for their price. Below are the notes I took on the wines I tasted. 

2017 Susana Esteban Aventura Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$19
Aromas are super peachy and bright but steely, too. Crisp, bright, brisk, mineral-driven on the palate with chalky notes, baby’s breath and green olive notes mixed with the juicy green apple and lemon fruit. Mineral dust note stand out, this shows lovely texture but such freshness. A co-fermented field blend from 30-year-old vineyards in Portalegre, which is at higher elevation, 700 meters. (89 points)

2017 Susana Esteban Procura Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$37
Gorgeous aromatics of lemon curd, apricot, peaches, with yellow flowers and raw almonds. The textural depth is amazing, brisk acidity, lovely combo with peaches and lemon curd. Complex elements of sea salt, mineral, dusty chalk. Layered, vibrant, complex, deep, yet so refreshing. No lees-stirring, no maloactic fermentation, this is aged in old oak. Fascinating, excellent white field blend from 80-year-old vines. (93 points) 

2017 Susana Esteban Procura Amphora - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$37
Clay sample. This unfinished wine is awesome. Brisk and floral aromas on the nose with apricot and lemon pith. The palate is bright and tangy but shows an earthy, waxy depth with flavors of almond and spiced white tea. Intriguing and delicious. (91 points) 

2017 Susana Esteban Sidecar - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$N/A 
One of the most fascinating white wines of the trip. Pear nectar, guava and flowers on the nose. Crisp acidity on the palate, lovely texture, mineral depth. Complex notes of sea salt, honeycomb, oyster shell, bread crumbs, with apricot and tangerine fruit. Complex, mouthfeel is gorgeous, this is a unique and exciting blend that's aged in huge Alsace-style foudre. I'd love to see how it ages, because it's seriously good stuff. (93 points) 

2015 Susana Esteban Aventura Tinto - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$19
Nose shows raspberries and cherry preserves, violets and spiced tea, chestnut and pope tobacco. Freshness on this wine is key, dusty, fine tannins and lively acidity. Raspberries, black cherries, plums, the fruit mixes with smoky, earthy, tobacco elements. Delicious, approachable but serious juice. A blend of Aragones, Touriga Nacional and other varieties, all stainless steel. (88 points) 

2013 Susana Esteban Procura Tinto - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$37
Concentrated aromas of black cherries, currant compote, warm clay, espresso, dark earth. Bold and concentrated on the palate with some strong tannins, yet an underlying freshness keeps it bright. Deep blackberry and currant fruit, mixed with complex elements of black tea, anise, black pepper, scorched earth. Lots of depth here, and aging potential. Alicante Bouschet-based blend, aged 16 months in French oak, 30% new. (91 points) 

2016 Susana Esteban Castelão Sem Vergonha - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
$33
Waves of bright red fruit on the nose, cranberry, currants, along with black cherries, rose petals, some roasted herbs. Lighter style, this has an inviting smoothness and fresh acidity with solid tannic structure, but nothing here is harsh. Cranberry, black cherries, mixed with rose potpourri and some tobacco notes. 100% Castelão, aged 12 months in old French oak barrels, 13.1% alcohol. Susana made this wine as a challenge with Dirk Niepoort to make a "Burgundian" wine, and I think she nailed it. (91 points)

Godforsaken Grapes: Jason Wilson's Book is a Romp through the World's Obscure Wines

Many wine nerds have likely heard a similar statistic: about 80% of the world’s wine comes from about 20 grapes. Meanwhile, planet Earth boasts some 1,400 grape varieties used in winemaking, which means there is a whole lot of “obscure” wine out there. Since I’ve been paying close attention to wine, for about a dozen years now, I’ve seen a huge uptick in excitement about wines like Mtsvane from Georgia, Trousseau from Jura, orange wines from Slovenia, etc. Even though I’m still totally happy sipping California Chardonnay, I think this increased attention on lesser known wines has been extremely positive in many ways.

In his new book, “Godforsaken Grapes: A Slightly Tipsy Journey through the World of Strange, Obscure, and Underappreciated Wine,” Philly’s Jason Wilson digs deep into the other 20% of the world’s wine. After focusing on spirits and cocktails for much of his life, Wilson caught a bad case of the wine geek bug, and soon began traveling to Austria, Switzerland, Northeast Italy, and other regions, searching for obscure wines and the interesting people who keep them alive.  

In an interview with Wine Enthusiast, Wilson said this about his motivations behind writing the book: “This book is very personal, dealing with my own growing obsession with wine during my late 30s and 40s. I wanted to write about what happens when one goes down the rabbit hole into serious geekdom. I also saw a bigger story. The wine industry is undergoing a massive sea change and the influence of a certain type of ‘serious wine critic’ is on the wane. I wanted to capture this moment.”

The title of the book was taken from a now infamous screed posted by Robert Parker in 2014, in which he complained that a younger generation of wine-lovers (which he called a “group of absolutists”) was engaging in, “near-complete rejection of some of the finest grapes and the wines they produce. Instead they espouse, with enormous gusto and noise, grapes and wines that are virtually unknown.” These “godforsaken grapes” (like Trousseau, Savagnin, Blaufränkisch and others), Parker decreed, made wines that were “rarely palatable.”

A lot of people were ruffled by Parker’s post, but I remember feeling a bit sad. It reminded me of an old metalhead ranting about how bands these days don’t make music like they used to. Blah, blah, blah. This thinking also sets up a false dichotomy, pitting what Wilson calls “serious wines” against the “obscure” or “natural” or “geeky” wines. I’ve never felt the need to pick a side in this fight — Napa Cabs are great, so is Schiava from Alto Adige. The world is big enough for everything. Isn’t there enough tribalism in the world already? It’s just wine — right?  

The most refreshing aspect about Wilson’s voice is his sense of self-doubt, the way he questions his own assumptions and applies skepticism to his own views when he feels he might be getting ahead of himself. Since wine, as the cliché goes, is a journey, I appreciate how Wilson always checks his tracks to see where he’s been and where he’s going.

“Was all of this just a privileged exercise in geekiness and arcane trivia?” Wilson asks himself. “I’d started to worry I was falling down the same rabbit hole as those hipper-than-thou wine snobs who sneer at people who order chardonnay.”

Several times in the book, Wilson compares extreme wine geekism to bizarre, obscure performance art, and wonders if some of us are seeking out oddity for oddity’s sake: “I occasionally worry that the pursuit of even more obscure and lesser-known wines is sort of like Dada. What’s cool and enigmatic one day — trollinger from Germany or encruzado from Portugal or malagousia from Greece — could very well become boring tomorrow.”

And sometimes we can get so caught up in wine geek navel gazing, perhaps sometimes we miss the entire point. I mean, isn’t this all about happiness and pleasure anyway? Again, Wilson asks: “But has this quest into pleasure led toward some enlightenment or happiness, or has it simply succeeded in making me a miserable person? I occasionally worry about these sorts of things. I am well aware how ridiculous or pathetic that may sound, the ultimate First World Problem.”

Wilson’s book is divvied up into self-enclosed chapters focusing on a certain region or a certain type of wine. I will say, some of the chapters (like the one on Port) seem tacked on, and sometimes Wilson rambles on for far too long about his travel logistics. That said, I genuinely enjoyed this book, learned more than a few things, and finished it feeling invigorated about where we are in this moment of wine’s history.

If you’re still looking for a wine-related summer beach read, this is a great one. I confess that reading this book on a beach in Portugal (while sipping a chilled local white made from Antão Vaz) was a delightful experience.

$26, hardcover

Abrams Press

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Crémant d'Alsace - Delicious Champagne-Method Bubbles <$25

High quality Champagne-method sparkling wine and value — not always an easy combination to come by. Luckily, Crémant d’Alsace exists.

For less than $25, Crémant d’Alsace provides some of my favorite sparkling wines from France. In Alsace, the producer Lucien Albrecht first began applying the Champagne method process to their own grapes in 1971, and, after lobbying the French authorities for an official designation, the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée Crémant d’Alsace was born in 1976. Now, producers all over Alsace make wines this way from a variety of grapes. I’ve been drinking Crémant d’Alsace since I was legally able to purchase alcohol, because I found a few reliably good producers whose wines were so delicious and affordable.

I’m a Champagne worshipper; nothing will ever rival that. But I can’t always spend the money on Champagne, and sometimes I want something good but inexpensive to share with family and friends. And this is where Alsace wines excel, with high quality and $20-ish price points.

Since my last post on Alsace, I received four Crémants d’Alsace, all of which should retail for $25 or less. These wines were received as samples and tastes sighted. 

N.V. Gustave Lorentz Crémant d'Alsace - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace

SRP: $25
Light gold color. Aromas of yellow apples, toasted biscuits, crushed shells, cut flower stems. On the palate this is crisp and nervy with a mineral tang and flavors of lemon, green apple. Toasted bread crumbs, chalk dust, floral perfume, this is a bright and zesty style that really powers through on the finish. Yum. A split blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. (90 points)

N.V. J.B. Adam Crémant d'Alsace Emotion - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $22
Light gold color. Bright and floral on the nose, also yellow apples, lemons, with richer cinnamon, biscuits and nougat. Zesty and brisk on the palate, I like the chalky brightness on this wine, but depth is impressive, too. Apricots and limes dusted with chalk, sea salt and candied orange peel. 95% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Noir. (89 points)

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $22
Pale rose petal color. Fresh and floral aromas of red apple peel, peaches and ruby red grapefruit with some spicy nettle. Crisp and bright on the palate with zesty strawberry, red apple peel, along with spiced white tea, chalk dust and some white pepper. Fresh, brisk, minerally. All Pinot Noir. (87 points)

N.V. Willm Crémant d'Alsace Blanc de Noirs - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $15
Very pale copper color. Yeasty and biscuit nose with apricot, red apple peel, lemon zest, mixed with yellow flowers, honeysuckle and musky cologne. Lively and crisp on the palate with a deep mineral and slate element, impressive depth, highly delicious. Strawberries, lemons and apricots mixed with musk, yellow flowers, almond and rose hips. For $15, this could easily become a house sparkling wine. All Pinot Noir. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.