Don’t worry – there’s still plenty of time left in summer, at least technically. It seems like summer lasts forever these days anyway, but luckily, so does pink wine season.
This week I have a handful of rosato wines from Italy that I found interesting and exciting. From Veneto to Puglia, these wines are made from traditional regional grapes like Montepulciano and Susumaniello, and their colors span the gamut from pale copper to raspberry juice.
Considering the recent high inflation levels, I find it refreshing to see well-crafted, delicious pink wine at these price points. These wines are all exclusively imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, which allows distributors to get these wines direct from the wineries and keeps the prices very reasonable. Whoever they have selecting Italian rosato wines clearly knows what they’re doing, as I found this to be an impressive and diverse portfolio. If you’re looking to replenish some of your rosé stash, check your local market for some of these wines.
This week’s selections were received as samples and tasted single blind.
2021 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Rondinella Rosato "Scaia” - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $15
Medium copper color. The aromas boast a lovely mix of sea salt, white pepper and crushed rocks along with raspberries and white cherries, some honeysuckle and mint. The palate has a plush texture with crisp acidity, along with raspberry, cherry and crunchy McIntosh apple fruit. The wildflower, breezy open meadow and honeysuckle tones are lively and fresh, and there’s a nice mineral and green herbal undertone. A bright, zippy, floral style with a lot of value. Made from all Rondinella in the Mezzane di Sotto commune of Valpolicella. (89 points)
2021 Garofoli Montepulciano Rosato “Komaros” - Italy, Marche, Marche IGT
SRP: $14
Light strawberry color. The nose pops with a pleasant mix of raspberries, limes and peaches, topped in white and yellow flowers and cool notes of mint and verbena. Punchy texture, lively acidity, this has a pleasant briny element to accent the ripe watermelon, kiwi and white peach fruit. Notes of chalk dust, celery seed and mint add a spicy kick to this fresh, juicy rosato. All Montepulciano from clay soil vineyards in Cònero. (90 points)
2021 Masseria Li Veli Negroamaro Rosato “Torrerose” - Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT
SRP: $15
Pale copper color. A great combination of juicy strawberries, red apples, along with floral perfume, chalk dust, and a mix of spicy, herbal and floral elements that blend well together. Medium-bodied with pleasant creaminess that accents the bright acidity well, and the watermelon, strawberry and white cherry fruit is highly delicious. The complex mix of non-fruit elements is exciting: white pepper, mint, cucumber slices, crushed sea shells. This has finesse and gluggability in equal parts. Negroamaro from clay and limestone soils in the Brindisi province. (90 points)
2021 Masseria Li Veli Susumaniello Rosato “Askos” - Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT
SRP: $23
Medium copper color. An explosion of peaches and cantaloupe on the nose, drizzled with lime, along with and interesting mix of honeysuckle, cucumber slices, whipped cream and honey. The palate shows creamy texture and lively acidity, with a range of juicy fruit (lime, strawberry, cantaloupe and white peach). Some flinty, chalky, green herbal tones mix well with creamier, honeyed elements. Juicy but fresh, balanced and fun. Susumaniello grapes from clay and limestone soils in Brindisi. (89 points)
2021 Fattoria La Valentina Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo
SRP: $14
A deep strawberry color. The nose shows a delightful mix of pomegranate, watermelon and cherry fruit, along with daisies, white pepper and honey, a ripe but nuanced appeal. The palate is packed with juicy deliciousness and creamy texture (flavors of white peach, cherry, strawberry and pomegranate) but also balanced with crisp acidity. Notes of yellow and white flowers, clove, some spicy tones, herbal tea and honey. Delicious and ripe but nuanced and complex. A lot going on here, and tons of value. Cerasuolo grapes from clay soils in the Pescara province. (91 points)
This week’s report encompasses a range of wines that speak to diversity and value.
Oregon Pinot fans are surely aware of Willakenzie, which formed in 1991 and boasts a 420-acre estate in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. Five years ago, Erik Kramer joined as winemaker, continuing on the Pinot legacy but branching out into Chardonnay as well.
I’ve known Mendoza’s Trapiche mostly for their widely-available and inexpensive Malbec, but they’ve got some gems in their portfolio as well. Take the Terroir Series, three single-vineyard Malbecs that offer nuance, depth and distinction at a very reasonable price. From vines all planted above 3,000 feet, winemaker Sergio Case is doing something special with these wines. Age-worthy and packed with value, I wouldn’t hesitate to buy a few of these apiece and forget about them in the cellar for a few election cycles.
For these hot, humid days, I also have some Cavas from Bella Conchi that offer a lot of fun without breaking the bank. And one rosé from Napa’s Smith-Madrone – only the third time they’ve made this one, but it really rocks.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted, while the Trapiche wines were tasted single blind.
2017 Trapiche Malbec Terroir Series Finca Ambrosia - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Gualtallary
SRP: $40
Dark purple color. Saucy but tart nose of red and black currants and cherries, along with mesquite, chewing tobacco, some sage, violet petals, and rich, loamy soil. The palate is precise and focused with dusty tannins and lively acidity. The black cherry and currant fruit is juicy but tangy, and topped in dustings of mesquite, tobacco, tar, leather, campfire, hints of mushroom and forest floor. There’s this stony, mineral essence that lingers long on the finish. Complex but vibrant, this is showing great right now but will do well with three-to-five in the cellar. From Gualtallary vines planted at 4,200 feet. (92 points)
2017 Trapiche Malbec Terroir Series Finca Orellana - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, La Consulta
SRP: $40
Deep purple color. Ooh this nose is lovely! I get dark plums, black cherries, with these deep, stony, rocky, earthy tones (graphite, smashed rocks, paved road, potting soil), with violet and pepper nuances. The palate is grippy and well-structured with vibrant, lip-smacking acidity – the balance is on point. Tart black currant and blackberry fruit blends well with notes of tar, campfire, potting soil, roasted red pepper, anise and leather. I also get nuanced tones of coffee and mocha and a deep mineral presence throughout. A stony but bright finish. Wow, I’d love to see this in five years, but it’s so expressive young, too. From 62-year-old La Consulta vines at 3,250 feet, aged 18 months in French oak and a year in bottle. (93 points)
2018 Trapiche Malbec Terroir Series Finca Coletto - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $40
Deep purple color. So suave and inviting on the nose, with fig paste and plum sauce, doused in violets, clay and potting soil, some cocoa, anise and pencil shavings. Structured so well, grippy but refined tannins, balanced with crisp acidity. Tangy but deep plums, with figs and cranberry relish – interesting mix of fruit – backed up with complexities of violet and clove potpourri, tilled soil, graphite, minerals. This needs time to coax out the savory nuances packed in here, and this will age so nicely. Long, zippy, fresh, spicy finish. Aged 18 months in French oak and 12 months in bottle. From 57-year-old vines at El Peral, 3,700 feet. (92 points)
2019 WillaKenzie Estate Chardonnay Estate Cuvée - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $75
Medium yellow color. The aromas are so fresh, with kiwi, yellow apples, topped in chalk, stony minerals, saline, some bread crumbs and honey. The palate is full of precise acidity and deep texture, with flavors of lemons and limes and crunchy yellow apples. Some floral perfume and saline tones blend well with biscuits, bread dough and some honey. A very clear and focused Chardonnay that should age nicely. Really surprising and delicious stuff. (92 points)
2018 WillaKenzie Estate Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $50
Medium ruby color. The aromas are so juicy and fresh, with raspberries and fresh cherries, along with rhubarb and cola, rose petals and some earthy, clay tones. The palate shows suave tannins and crisp acidity, with tangy, fresh raspberries, cherries and red plums. The fruit is blended well with notes of rose petals, pepper, cola, some tobacco. Lots to unpack with air and time; this is delightful. (91 points)
2018 WillaKenzie Estate Pinot Noir Emery - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
SRP: $75
Deep ruby color. Beautiful nose of tangy strawberries with warm raspberry jam, topped in complex tones of mint, pepper, anise, rhubarb, just a lot going on here. The tannins are chalky but structured, balanced nicely with zippy acidity, and the red cherry and strawberry fruit is juicy and fresh. The complexities of black tea, pepper, sage, oregano, cola and rhubarb go on and on and offer a lot to contemplate and enjoy. Pretty, balanced, with a very long finish. This could use at least two or three years, but what a beaut. (93 points)
2021 Smith-Madrone Rosé - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $30
Deep watermelon color. Juicy strawberry aromas, watermelon, lemon, topped in a complex mix of roses and daisies, honeysuckle, saline and mint – smells so delightful. The palate sports juicy texture with vibrant acidity, and the balance between the depth and freshness is great. Watermelon, red apple peel and ripe pear fruit mixes with rose petals and honeysuckle. Air and warmth bring out notes of sea salt, chalk, white pepper and oregano add complexity. The nuance and balance are delightful. Cabernet Franc with 33% Merlot. Awesome value. (92 points)
N.V. Bella Conchi Cava Brut Reserva - Spain, Cava
SRP: $17
Light yellow color. The nose is bright and zesty with yellow apples, limes, tones of floral perfume and chalk dust. The palate is zippy and brisk with limes, tart apricot and yellow apples. Light bubbles and a chalky, talc-infused frame mixes with white and yellow flowers and slight biscuit tones. A lighter style but a lot going on as well, and solid value. (87 points)
N.V. Bella Conchi Cava Brut Rosé - Spain, Cava
SRP: $16
Bright watermelon color. Nose of red apple peel, tar cranberry, with floral perfume, crushed sweet tarts and hints of white pepper. Crisp and zippy on the palate with a tart, crunchy feel to the fruit (raspberry, red apple peel). Notes of chalk, limestone, sliced cucumber and some mint add complexity. A racy, fun appeal. (86 points)
N.V. Bella Conchi Cava Brut Seleccion - Spain, Cava
SRP: $17
Medium yellow color. Aromas of crisp green and yellow apples, with some hay, saline and crushed limestone – a lemony, fresh appeal. Nice textural depth on the palate, with bright acidity. Green apple and papaya fruit mixes with yellow flowers, fresh basil, cucumber slices and limestone elements. Lots going on here, with light biscuit dough on the finish. (88 points)
I’m back to California this week with two producers who have some delightful new releases worth sharing.
I’ve been a fan of Lake County’s Hawk and Horse for years, so I was excited to taste their 2019 offerings. Especially considering the winery didn’t produce any wines in 2018 due to wildfires. Luckily, they’re back to form with their consistent, small-lot Bordeaux reds, which are sourced from the winery’s 18-acre estate vineyard, sitting at 1,800 to 2,000 feet with some steep slopes. The rocky, red volcanic soil and terroir here offer a signature fresh acidity that complements the dark fruit and pronounces spice tones very well. If you haven’t ventured far into Lake County wines, this is a great biodynamic producer to get to know.
Earlier this year, I tasted Napa’s Lobo Wines for the first time, and I’m back to check out their new 2019 vintage releases. I’m finding a lot of consistency in quality and deliciousness from this producer. Napa wines are never cheap, but this producer really offers a lot of interesting wines with fun flavors and styles for very reasonable prices.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2019 Lobo Wines Pinot Noir Wulff Vineyards – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $50
Deep ruby color. The nose shows a nice mix of sweet plums and black cherries along with tart red currants and cranberry relish, along with savory spices, rose potpourri, some clay and potting soil elements – a lot going on. Suave, full but fresh on the palate with smooth tannins and moderate acidity, with flavors of tart cranberry relish and juicy red cherries. Tones of cinnamon, rose hips, rhubarb, clay, spicy pepper. Very pretty, nuanced, should show a lot of exciting development the next three to five years. (91 points)
2019 Lobo Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Wulff Vineyards – USA, California, Napa Valley, Atlas Peak
SRP: $105
Deep purple color. Ooh, such a deep and saucy nose, with a compote of plums, blackberry, and complex tones of mocha, spiced black tea, gravelly earth and warm, sun-roasted herbs. The palate is full but vibrant with grippy but chewy tannins and lively acidity, with bold but tart blackberry, currant and plum fruit. Notes of earth, tar, chewing tobacco, they add complexity and depth, nuanced cedar and mocha elements. This will age wonderfully. (93 points)
2019 Lobo Wines Merlot Wulff Vineyards – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $70
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of cherries and tart currants, plum sauce, with violets and graphite, along with tilled soil, coffee grounds – a lot going on here. The palate shows suave tannins, moderate acidity, a velvety and balanced appeal here. Tangy black and red currant fruit mixed with complexities of black tea, pepper, rosemary and thyme. Intriguing stuff that should age nicely for a solid bunch of years to come. (91 points)
2019 Lobo Wines Howl Wulff Vineyards – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $70
Vibrant purple color. Smells delightful, with plum and black cherry compote, so spicy and fun, with pepper, paprika, campfire and mesquite. The palate is full with a nice grip, smooth edges to the tannins, buttressed by vibrant acidity, well-balanced. The plum and tart blueberry fruit is delicious, with notes of tar, anise, mesquite, violets. There are some stony, mineral and earth tones to spare. Love the freshness – and this will age nicely. Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. (92 points)
2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Petit Verdot – USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $65
Dark purple color. A deep core of roasted figs, plum sauce, along with charcoal, graphite, tilled soil, coffee grounds, violets – needs air to coax out the depths. The palate shows a solid core of roasted figs and currant paste, grippy tannins, moderate acidity, impressive balance and complexity. Cool mix of spicy and refreshing elements, and I get a lot of mesquite, tar, graphite, roasted red peppers and gravelly earth. A long-ager for sure. Don’t be scared of PV – this is delicious stuff! All Petit Verdot aged in 100% French oak. (91 points)
2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Petite Sirah – USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $65
Deep purple color. The nose shows a nice mix of tangy plums and blueberries, with spicy pepper, anise, some coffee, toffee and mocha. Nice grip on the palate but the tannins have these suave edges and the acidity is really nice, balancing out the deep plum and currant fruit. Notes of black olive, tar, mocha, black pepper and bell pepper add complexity, and I love the deep, earthy, mineral and stony vibes in here. There’s a ton of freshness in here for a Petite Sirah. This puppy will age wonderfully. All PS aged in all French oak. (91 points)
2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon – USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $75
Medium purple color. Deep but tart aromas of blueberry and black cherries, with complex, deep and spicy tones: tar, mocha, sage, sweet red pepper, black pepper and balsamic glaze. The palate is full but smooth and, like the others, this wine’s acidity is really nice. Tangy plums and juicy black currant fruit blends well with leather, paprika, black pepper, spicy tobacco, mint. A lot going on, and I’d like to see this in five or six years. Cab Sauv with 2% Petit Verdot, aged in 100% French oak. (92 points)
2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Franc – USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $65
Deep purple color. The nose sports mulled cherries and deep currant fruit, with a spicy mix of anise, black pepper, tar, leather and espresso. Full but fresh, this shows solid grip but smooth edges to the tannins and moderate acidity. The fig paste and cranberry relish fruit is delicious, and it’s backed up with tar, anise, cocoa, sweet bell pepper, chewing tobacco and some black olive. Really fun and lively but also pretty, complex and age-worthy. All Cab Franc aged in 100% French oak. (91 points)
