Plenty of wilderness and wine to explore in Arizona

For about a dozen years now, I’ve been taking trips to the Tonto National Forest in Arizona. Each time I go, I hike my ass off, climb a lot of rocks, spend a ton of time along in the wilderness, scoping wildlife. And I haven’t even scratched the surface. There’s so much gnarly country out there, and each time I plan an excursion into a new area, looking for new summits, canyons, creeks, birds.

Out there, I’ve seen lots of lizards and snakes, a ton of birds, a bobcat, coyotes, and my first and only cougar tracks.

When I head to Arizona, I try to order some wines ahead of time from producers I’ve grown to love and respect. Alternatively, there are some shops that carry local producers, and I frequently check the local section to see if they have some of my favorites: Page Springs Cellars, Dos Cabezas, Rune, Callaghan. Nothing beats coming home after a long day of hiking and grilling up some meat, pairing it with a local Arizona wine.

Page Springs Cellars is a gem – great people in a beautiful place making singular wines. “Unique” is an overused word in wine circles (I’m guilty), but these wines are in a league of their own. Their kitchen sink blends mixes are always delicious and interesting, and their varietal single vineyard wines are clear interpretations of their place and grape. So, on my most recent Arizona trip, I had some of their wines shipped to my destination. I also picked up some bottles from another of my favorite producers, Dos Cabezas, based in Cochise County.

Arizona has a lot to offer in terms of wine and wilderness. You just have to hit the trails. Here are some photos and wine notes from my most recent trip this winter.

2020 Page Springs Vino Del Barrio Blanco - Arizona
Pale yellow. Peachy keen on the nose with limes and lemons, honey, white tea, some verbena and oregano elements. I like the zippy elements but there’s a pleasant creaminess that keeps it fun. Peaches and kiwi with honey, raw almond, along with flinty, crunchy, salty elements. Fun, bright, complex. What a cool blend of Traminette, Vidal Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Colombard, Roussanne, Seyval Blanc, Vermentino, Bourbolenc, Malvasia Bianca and Riesling – sheesh! Some Arizona magic happening here. (90 points)

2019 Page Springs Viognier Deep Sky Vineyard – Arizona, Cochise County, Willcox
A beautifully tropical nose of peaches, kiwi and pineapple, with notes of sea salt, cucumber slices and white flowers. The palate is deep but fresh, this is no overly chunky Viognier, not at all. Beautiful texture with peaches and lemon cake, along with flinty, mineral tones and tons of white and yellow flowers. I feel like if you left some of this in the glass, a hummingbird would steal it from you – and for good measure. I’d love to see how this ages. (91 points)

2020 Page Springs Cellars Grenache "Blanc de Noir" Colibri Vineyard - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
So pale copper. The nose is exquisite, with saline and crushed shells, along with grapefruit pith, lemons, white flowers – a taut and bright appeal. The palate is tight and brisk with orange peel, grapefruit and lemon mixed with chalky, clean laundry and saline vibes. Flinty, precise. If I were sipping this blindfolded, I’d be all over the map (Muscadet? Galician white?). Really cool stuff. (91 points)

2020 Page Springs Cellars – Mule’s Mistake – Arizona, Cochise County
This is always such a fun wine, a total kitchen sink blend of everything, and it always delivers fun and excitement. 2020 is a total blast with juicy cherries, spicy pepper, rose petals and red and black licorice candies on the nose. The palate is bright with light tannins and tangy, ripe fruit (raspberries and red cherries) along with roses, black pepper, cola and clay. So fun, accessible, but it’s own thing entirely. One of the most fun, cheap wines I buy from anywhere in the world, year-in, year-out. A blend of so many grapes, each year it’s dizzying. Each vintage has like eight, from Counoise, Pinot Noir, Carignan and Sangiovese to white Rhone grapes and others. This wine portrays a lot about why I love Arizona. (89 points)

2019 Page Springs Mourvedre Pick 3 Colibri Vineyard – Arizona, Cochise County
Loving the floral and spicy complexity on the nose, these rose petal, rhubarb, creosote and paprika, over raspberries and pomegranate fruit – so good! On the palate, this is zippy and fresh with dusty tannins and a crushable but complex appeal. Raspberries and sour cherry fruit is tangy and so lively. The notes of pepper, paprika, warm clay and rose petals. So vibrant but has a lot of depth, too, and I’d like to see it in three to four years. I’d also love to see this thrown into a blind tasting with some wine nerd friends and see them try to place it. Aged 11 months in 20% Arizona oak. (93 points)

2016 Dos Cabezas Wine Works El Norte - USA, Arizona, Cochise County 

This wine shows classic red Grenache fruit (raspberries and strawberries) along with a complex mix of clove, rose hips, sliced bell pepper, mesquite. Fun appeal on the palate, but all sorts of complexity. Tangy red berries, very fresh but plenty of sun-roasted feel, mixed well with notes of charcoal, smoked meats, pepper, some floral potpourri. This is such a reliably great wine from Dos Cabezas, a cool mix of Garnacha, Syrah, Graciano, Petite Sirah, Monastrell and Vranc. (90 points)

2017 Dos Cabezas - Aguileon – Arizona, Cochise County
Love the nose here, so spicy and classic southern Arizona vibes, with creosote, clay, leather, black pepper, over the top of juicy raspberry and cherry fruit. Smooth but structured with vibrant acid and a juicy frame of raspberries and cherries. A lot of violets, mesquite, tilled soil, warm clay, some campfire and leather. These are flavors that just exude the Sonoran desert mountains, and I’m here for it. Tempranillo, Graciano, Petit Verdot, Garnacha, Petite Sirah and Monastrell. (91 points)

Wine Reviews: Summertime Selections

Here in the U.S. Mid-Atlantic, summer is in full swing. Heat, humidity, summer travel and traffic on the way – I know a lot of people love this season, but I am missing the cooler days already!

And as much as I love some Napa Cabs and burly Southern Rhone wines, I’m not going to be opening one any time soon. I need some crisp whites, interesting rosés, maybe some orange wines and crushable reds.

In recent weeks I’ve received a wide spectrum of wines that would fit this bill. I’ve parsed through some of them and curated this selection of summer-friendly wines. From Grieve and Gamble, Napa Sauvignon Blancs deliver, and I have some cool wines from Germany as well.

Stinson Vineyards is one of Virginia’s most reliable producers for me, and they come through again with the new vintage of their Tannat pink. But what really wowed me was their Meritage Blanc, something I didn’t know was coming and took me by surprise with its beautiful interpretation of a Semillon/Sauv Blanc blend. Oregon’s Troon Vineyard always puts out interesting wines in a lot of styles, and the three offerings from this biodynamic producer are great examples.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Rosé wines

2021 Bouchaine Vin Gris of Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $29
Pale salmon color. So perfumed and inviting on the nose with bright McIntosh apples and strawberry fruit, mixing with elements of talc, white tea, honeysuckle and mint. The palate boasts a delightfully creamy texture and lip-smacking acidity with flavors of white cherries, white peach and lemon. The finish has notes of sliced cucumbers, celery seed and chalky elements. Zesty but complex and deep as well, a delightful pink that is 85% whole cluster pressed, 15% saignée. (90 points)

2021 Bodegas Beronia Tempranillo Rioja Rosado – Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $13
Light pink color. Light and bright on the nose with lots of honeysuckle and dandelion over top of white peaches, lemons and raspberries. Crisp, breezy and springy on the palate with white peach and wild raspberry fruits. Notes of cucumber, freshly cut flower stems, some dusty, mineral-y vibes throughout. 50/50 blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha. Widely available, solid value, what’s not to love? (88 points)

2021 Fleurs de Prairie Rosé – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc
SRP: $20
Pale salmon. Peaches and cream on the nose with some honey, this is a chunky, yummy rose with floral perfume and white tea. Creamy and chunky on the palate but nice acidity, this is full of raspberries and strawberries and mixed with some chalk, dried flowers and dandelion. Juicy, fresh and pleasant, this is crowd-pleasing, fun stuff. Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault and Mourvedre. (87 points)

2021 Gamble Family Vineyards Rosé – USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
SRP: $26
Bright pink color. The nose pops with a orange peel and raspberries, topped in honeysuckle, magnolia petal, some mint and breezy, spring field vibes. Crisp acidity, sports a honeyed depth of texture with bright citrus and juicy rubus fruits, some McIntosh apples. Floral perfume, chalk dust, whipped honey, shows richness but stays really vibrant. Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon base with Cab Franc Merlot and Petit Verdot. (90 points)

2020 Josh Cellars Rosé – USA, California
SRP: $15
Medium copper color. Smells of strawberries and red delicious apples with notes of nettle and fresh cut grass. Lively but creamy with white peach and strawberry fruit, drizzled with lemon. Honeyed and pleasant with some notes of dandelion, lily, orange blossom. Some slight green herb tones as well. Fun, crowd-pleasing, value-driven stuff. (86 points)

2021 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Rosé – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Gorgeous light peach color. A crunchy and spicy aromatic display with kiwi and white cherry, along with chalk dust, sliced cucumber, celery seed and honeysuckle. Crisp and punchy on the palate with a delightful richness, matched with precise acidity. The fruit is a mix of juicy white peaches and wild raspberries, and I get notes of clover, thistle flower, celery seed and white flowers. Very pretty, the mouthfeel is gorgeous, and the level of complexity and focus is really something. A stellar pink made from Tinta Roriz, Malbec and Counoise. (92 points)

2021 Stinson Vineyards Tannat Rosé – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $23
Pretty light salmon color. The nose is bright and juicy with white cherries, raspberries and red apple peel, tossed with a cool blend of spicy white pepper, fresh basil and some crushed chalk. The palate is crisp but deeply textured and the balance is delightful. Crunchy red apple peel and ripe raspberry fruit mix well with these basil, rose petal, magnolia and white pepper elements. Lively and pure with racy minerals on the finish, this fresh and complex rose delivers, year after year. From Horton Vineyards’ fruit, this is a great value. (91 points)

White wines

2019 Weingut A Diehl Chardonnay Sekt – Germany, Pfalz
SRP: $25
Medium gold color. The nose has a nice mix of bright citrus fruits and saline tossed with hay, almond and honey. The palate has some nice texture, but brisk acidity, and it boasts this talc/mineral undertone. Lemon and yellow apple with some cracker crumbs and crushed oyster shells. Bright and nervy and fun. Chardonnay. (89 points)

2021 Gamble Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Gamble Vineyard – USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
SRP: $35
Pale straw color. The nose shows a gorgeous blend of gooseberry, white peach and guava nectar, along with honey, white flowers, some notes of dill and dandelion. Racy acidity, creamy texture, balanced well with a tropical mélange of white peach, guava and lemon juice. Some waxy, honeyed tones mix well with floral elements and this flinty, stony, mineral-packed appeal. Refreshing and nervy with a lot of depth, this would be interesting to see how it ages for a few years as well. Fermented on the lees for six months in stainless steel and a mix of new and used French oak. (91 points)

2019 Grieve Family Winery Sauvignon Blanc – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $98
Light yellow color. A rich, inviting nose of papaya, iwi and mango, tossed with honey, white pepper, ramp leaves and chalk dust. The palate shows a pleasantly creamy texture with racy acidity and rushing mineral presences. The lime and papaya fruit is glazed with honey, white pepper and a tantalizing mix of chalk dust, saline and limestone. From the family’s Lovall Valley site, this is a special and unique Napa Sauv Blanc. Aged 16 months in 60% new French oak. (91 points)

2020 Stinson Vineyards Meritage Blanc – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $31
Medium yellow color. Gorgeous aromas of pineapple and lemon, with this refreshing, briny, chalky tones, balanced with honey and raw almond. The palate has a rich, creamy texture with vibrant acidity and lovely balance. The lemon, yellow apple, honeydew fruit, it’s all so fresh and focused, and the hay, honey, chamomile and peanut shell notes add a lot of complexity. This has such a level of verve, balance and focus – a really special Virginia white wine. Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, aged 16 months in 15% new French oak. This should age nicely, too, and would be a great ringer in a Bordeaux Blanc tasting or a “Wow”-inducing wine for Virginia newbs. (92 points)

Other goodies

2021 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Amber – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Light orange/copper color. A fascinating mix of honey, whipped butter, dried flowers, over top of candied orange peel, dried pineapple and some quince. Deep, waxy texture on the palate with gorgeous acidity and complex minerals. Orange blossoms, honeycomb, dried flowers, with these flinty, stony, mountain stream vibes. A lot going on here, this orange wine is up there with the most “accessible” I’ve tasted, but it’s still got that complexity and fascinating texture. A blend of Vermentino, Riesling and Roussanne, fermented on the skins separately in open-top vessels with 30% whole-cluster. (91 points)

2021 Troon Vineyard Grenache Glou-Glou Cowhorn Vineyard – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $30
Bright/light purple color. The nose is lovely and fresh with rhubarb, rose petals and pepper over top of juicy raspberries and cherries, with some tar and charcoal elements. The palate is dusty and fresh with a crunchy, fresh vibe, and flavors of cherries and raspberries. Dusty tannins and brisk acidity, with tones of violets, white pepper, charcoal and rose hips. Fun and lively but a lot of complexity as well. All whole-cluster Grenache fermented in stainless steel with two weeks of carbonic maceration. (90 points)

N.V. Jan Matthias Klein Pinot Noir Little Red Riding Wolf – Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
SRP: $33
Bright raspberry color. Natty but fun on the nose with tangy raspberries, red apple peel, with spicy pepper and paprika. The palate is zesty with light, chalky tannins and crunchy red fruits. Brisk cherries and raspberries mix with pepper, oregano, some tobacco, and there’s this mineral-limestone essence underneath as well. Clean and fresh, natty-lovers and those wary of the wild stuff should both appreciate this. A fun, fresh and spicy German Pinot Noir. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Bidding Farewell To Dirty & Rowdy Mourvèdre

I had mixed feelings when I recently opened two Dirty and Rowdy wines. I’ve long loved this producer’s wines, and have found their different Mourvedres to be some of the most fascinating reds from anywhere in California.

Usually, it’s with pure stoke and joy that I crack open a D&R bottle, preferably to blind some friends on one during a gathering. But, now that this winery has dissolved, there was some longing as I sniffed the bright red fruits. Their wines made quite a splash when they first started, and they have grown a loyal fanbase over the years with their bright, low-intervention wines and whimsical, fun outlook.

In September, Hardy Wallace announced that he and winery co-founder Matt Richardson had come to an “amicable” agreement to dissolve the Napa-based brand. I was saddened to hear this, as I was looking forward to stocking my cellar with more of their delicious vino. Luckily, the news wasn’t all bad, as Hardy and his wife Kate Graham announced they were starting a new venture: Extradimensional Wine Co. I have yet to taste these wines, but they seem like a worthy successor project (like Tryptikon is to Celtic Frost, if that makes sense to a random metalhead, wine-loving reader).

Below are my notes on two exceptional Dirty and Rowdy wines, my last from their mailing list. I hope to open some more D&R wines before the stock diminishes all over, and look forward to Hardy and Kate’s new project as well. 

2018 Dirty and Rowdy Mourvèdre 'ESPECIAL' Rodnick Farm - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone
$35
I don’t usually think of “elegance” as a term applicable to Mourvedre, but it sure is to this one. So floral, airy, delightful on the nose with juicy red cherries and bright pomegranate. Notes of pepper, lavender, mesquite and rose hips add complexity. Medium-bodied, the mouthfeel is gorgeous, a combination of brisk acidity and dusty tannins supporting bright cherry and tangy strawberry fruit. A racy feel, so floral and perfumed, with complexities of tar, black tea, beef drippings, mushrooms. Refined and pretty, but this should continue to deal out goodness for a while, although it’s drinking really great now. (92 points)

2019 Dirty and Rowdy Mourvèdre Shake Ridge Ranch - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County
$60
The nose here is something else: the freshest raspberries and strawberries, mixed with tones of spicy red pepper, black pepper, white pepper, rose petals, cherry blossoms, even some orange peel, along with anise and sage – wow. Structured well with dusty, mid-strength tannins and crisp acidity, with tart currant and raspberry – so tangy and alive. Roses, paprika, clay, black pepper, minerals and graphite, this has so much going on for it. The mouthfeel is perfectly balanced. I’d love to see this in three or four years, as this got so much better on day two. (94 points)