Autumn is in full swing, and I am loving it. I've been enjoying cool morning birdwatching walks, seeing the leaves start to change and evenings spent cooking up soups, stews and braised meat dishes after a long summer. I’m looking forward to hosting friends and family over the coming weeks, and, of course, planning some wines to share.
I’m always stocking up on whites, pinks and bubbles around this time of year, and I’ve got a few selections that would be versatile options for the upcoming season. For sparklers, I have an interesting new project to share: Vara from sparkling wine guru Laurent Gruet. This Brut blends Washington state Chardonnay with some Cava grapes from Spain – and the result is pretty darn cool.
Italian reds will definitely be a big feature of my fall and winter meal planning, and I’ll share some really nice ones this week. Founded in 1857, Bertani knows what they’re doing with Amarone, and their 2011 Amarone Classico is a stunner. And I have some value-driven reds that would be great for big gatherings.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
Rosé, white and sparkling
2021 Vinhos
Sogrape Mateus Rosé - Portugal
SRP: $13
Deep copper color.
Aromas of white cherries, raspberries, red apple peel, along with white
flowers, honeysuckle, some chalk dust and mint. Bright and spritely on the palate
with raspberries and tart white cherry fruit. There’s a pleasant creaminess and
waxiness to the texture with tones of white pepper, honeysuckle, along with
some talc and mineral tones. Ripe, pleasant, crisp, food-friendly and fun. (87
points)
N.V. Vara
Silverhead Brut - USA, American
SRP: $25
Palest copper
color. Gorgeous aromas of dough, hay, chalk dust and limestone, with white
cherry and raspberry fruit, with floral perfume tones as well. Crisp, nervy and
focused on the palate, this has a salty, briny appeal but also nice depth, with
juicy white cherry and red apple fruit. Flavors of biscuits, almond and hay mix
with saline and mineral-infused goodness. Has a brisk, clear feel but a lot of
cool, complex elements. An interesting mix of 72% Chardonnay from the Ancient
Lakes AVA in Washington, with 25% Xarel-lo/Macabeo from the Penedés in Spain,
and a 3% shot of Syrah from Washington as well. An 8 g/l dosage, aged 18
months, disgorged May 2022. (91 points)
N.V. Luretta
Principessa Emilia IGT - Italy, Emilia-Romagna, Emilia
IGT
SRP: $25
Pale lemon color. A
refreshing aromatic display of lemons, orange peel and yellow apples, with
tones of crushed chalk, talc, fresh biscuits, with white tea and honeysuckle.
Delightfully creamy and plush texture combines with racy acidity, which
supports the creamy yellow apples and lemon pie flavors. Balanced sugar, notes
of saline, enjoyable bread dough and biscuit flavors, topped in some crushed
chalk and notes of verbena. This is a fun, fresh, classic method Chardonnay
that would be a great idea on for a holiday party or a by-the-glass list at a
restaurant that doesn’t shy away from spice. (88 points)
2008 La
Scolca Gavi D’Antan - Italy, Piedmont, Gavi
SRP: $100
Deep lemon
color. The aromas have such a dynamic and shifting display, with spiced tea,
honey, and bread crumbs over lemon and orange peels and these chalky,
saline-infused elements. The palate shows deep texture, a honeyed feel but so
taut and nervy as well, with orange peel and lemon curd. There’s this stony,
mineral, salty essence throughout that is great, and complex elements of white
tea, mint and umami come out with time. Fascinating and delicious, worth
seeking out if you’re into unique, aged whites. Their flagship white from
Rovereto in Gavi, it’s a Cortese that’s aged for 10 years before release. (94
points)
Reds
2019 Seña - Chile, Aconcagua Valley
SRP: $125
Deep purple color. Beautiful, deep aromas of plums, black currants and tart wild blueberries, supported by a complex host of mint, anise, coffee, loamy soil, tobacco and campfire – a ton going on here. Grippy tannins, refined edges, and vibrant acidity makes for a tangy, dark and balanced wine. The plum, currant and black cherry fruit is tangy and pure, laced with mesquite, black pepper, loamy earth and graphite, roasted red pepper. The complexity of flavors is matched with seamless integration, and this wine, while expressive now, deserves a few years and a really good decant to show its stuff. Cabernet Sauvignon with 21% Malbec, 15% Carmenere, 4% Petit Verdot, aged 22 months in 80% new French oak. (94 points)
2014 Azienda
Agricola Spadafora Nero d'Avola Schietto - Italy,
Sicily, Terre Siciliane
SRP: $45
Medium purple
color. The nose is delightfully spicy, like grilled meats topped in black
pepper, anise, tar, menthol, over a deep core of saucy plum and black fruit,
showing nuanced of age but liveliness for the cellar. On the palate, the
tannins are refined and dusty, backed up by tart currant and mulled black
cherry fruit. I get a lot of pepper, clove, campfire, anise and clay/earthy
tones, along with floral potpourri. Complex, delicious, lovely mouthfeel, this
is a Nero d’Avola that offers a lot to ponder and enjoy, and I’d be interested
to see what this does with another few years in the cellar, too. (92 points)
2020 Caldora
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano
d'Abruzzo
SRP: $15
Bright purple
color. Aromas of juicy cherries, raspberry and strawberry jam, along with rose
petals, white pepper, a friendly, inviting aromatic display. Ripe tannins and
medium acidity make for a vibrant but chewy feel with black cherries and
raspberry jam fruit. Juicy and fun but shows some nice complexity in terms of
pepper, violets, clove, tar and some dried rose petals. A lively,
crowd-pleasing Montepulicano at a very reasonable price. Aged nine months in
oak. (87 points)
2020 Michele
Chiarlo Barbera d'Asti Le Orme - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Barbera
d'Asti
SRP: $18
Vibrant ruby
color. Lovely fruit on the nose (juicy blackberries, spiced cranberry relish)
with secondary notes of pepper, savory broth, bright red flowers, some earthy
tones. Vibrant acidity, a juicy feel with smooth tannins, it makes for a
balanced and lively wine. Tangy black cherries and bright red plum fruit mix
with tobacco, clay, fallen leaves, adding lots of complexity and depth.
Crowd-pleasing but offers nerds a lot to love, too, this is a great bottle to
add to the holiday gathering table. Really solid value. (90 points)
2018 Tenuta di
Arceno Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti,
Chianti Classico DOCG
SRP: $40
Bright purple color.
The nose shows juicy black cherries, red currants, laced with charcoal, tar,
tobacco, balanced with this brighter floral and spicy herbal tones. Structured
well, delightfully chewy tannins and moderate-plus acidity makes for a juicy
but fresh wine with raspberries, black cherries and currant fruit. Complex
notes of tobacco, sage, black olive, violets and black pepper add complexity,
but they need air and some time to show their stuff. Drink now or hold for a
while, but this is a solid Chianti Classico. (91 points)
2011 Bertani
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico - Italy,
Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
SRP: $130
Deep purple color.
An amazing aromatic display of tart currants, roasted figs, sweet black
cherries, with a host of complex herbal tea, violets, toffee, chewing tobacco,
and these rocky/earthy tones. Lots to ponder and sniff with air. Full and deep
on the palate, solid grip, while the moderate acidity keeps it focused. Pure,
deep fruit (plums, currants, roasted figs and boysenberry) mix with delicious
flavors of clove, violet, tobacco, soy and mushroom tones, and there’s a stony,
gravelly, mineral vibe underneath that is delightful. 80% Corvina, 20%
Rondinella, aged six years and oak and a year in bottle, this will age
gracefully for many years, or enjoy over a few cold nights. (95 points)
