Wine Reviews: California New Releases

As the year wraps up and 2019 begins, I have one last round-up of new releases from California.

This week, I have another batch from Lake County stalwart producer Jed Steele. I’ve said it before (a bunch of times), and I’ll say it again: some of these wines are so damned good for the money.

I also tasted two vintages of Calla Lily’s Audax Napa Cabernet. The fruit is sourced from a vineyard, first planted in 1995, on the eastern side of Howell Mountain. The vineyard is planted to mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with some Petite Sirah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petite Verdot. They’re big and bold, but I found them vibrant and quite balanced as well.

In this report, I cover the newest vintages of Chalk Hill’s Chardonnay, Louis Martini’s Monte Rosso Vineyard Cabernet, and some new (to me) red wines from Joseph Stephens, a winery in the Santa Clara Valley owned by the Silicon Valley Wine Company.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Eberle Chardonnay Estate - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP: $24

Medium yellow color. Nose shows bruised apples, glazed pear, topped in cinnamon, honey, almond and sea salt. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, while plump texture holds up the rich apple and apricot fruit. Notes of salted almond, graham cracker, sea salt and honeycomb. Rich but still lively. Half stainless steel, half of the wine spends time in 25% new French oak. (87 points)

2016 Chalk Hill Chardonnay - California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill

SRP: $42

Light gold color. On the nose, I get a combination of rich honey, cinnamon, pecans, along with lemon, white flowers and sea salt. Full texture but medium acidity, creamy but crisp, with all sorts of apples, apricots, lemons. Complex notes of sea shells, salted almond, white flowers, and the deeper notes of honeycomb and toasted marshmallow are woven in well. Rich mouthfeel, lots of textural depth, but also maintains an inviting freshness. Full maloactic fermentation and 11 months in 40% new French oak. (90 points)

2017 Steele Wines Pinot Blanc - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County

SRP: $20

Pale straw color. On the nose: peachy! Lots of juicy green melons, lemon curd as well, some orange blossom and clover. On the palate, precise acidity, this is juicy and fun with some nice textural depth, and flavors of green melon, key lime and lemon curd. Notes of orange blossom, perfume, new tennis ball, honeysuckle. This is sourced from Bien Nacido Vineyard, spends six months in old French oak, and is a fascinating and delicious wine, especially for the price. (89 points) 

2016 Steele Wines Shooting Star Cabernet Sauvignon - California, North Coast, Lake County

SRP: $16

Bright purple color. Nose shows tart red and black currants and cherries with a smoky, minty, earthy element. Full but velvety on the palate, medium acidity, a bright and crunchy core of currants and plums. Notes of herbs, spiced coffee mix in nicely. Tangy and earthy finish. It’s hard to find California Cabernet of this quality at this price point. (87 points)

2016 Eberle Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard Selection - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP: $25

Rich purple color. Dark and juicy on the nose with sweet plums, currant jam, smoky charcoal and root beer notes. Medium/full-bodied with soft tannins, moderate acidity, and a chewy texture. Plums and currants and black cherries, ripe and jammy fruit, this is a forward, fun, fan-friendly wine with notes of cola, chocolate and vanilla. 100% Cabernet. (85 points)

2014 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley

SRP: $85

Lively purple color. Beautiful nose of tangy red and black currants, sweet plums, lots of roses, violets, dusty earth, sweet cocoa, cedar – really gorgeous and complex on the nose. This wine is full and juicy but the acidity is lively and crisp, my mouth waters but the tannins provide serious grip. Tangy red and black currants and plums, really pretty, deep fruit, laced with complex elements of eucalyptus, dusty earth, clay, violets, with cocoa and espresso. Lovely now but shows lots of complexity and aging potential. All Cabernet Sauvignon aged 26 months in French and American oak. (91 points)

2014 Arrowood Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley

SRP: $35

Light purple color. Nose show juicy black cherries, plums, kirsch, along with sweet coffee, roasted herbs, vanilla and anise. Full-bodied with a plummy, ripe, juicy feel and velvety tannins, medium-low acidity. Plums and candied black cherries mix with coconut, anise, sweet vanilla coffee and some roasted earth notes. Forward, ripe, fun, crowd-pleasing stuff. Includes 16% Merlot and 4% Malbec aged 24 months in French and American oak. (88 points)

2013 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Audax - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $120

Deep purple color. Nose shows tart black currant, juicy blackberries (gorgeous depth of fruit), with complex notes of mint, scorched earth, cocoa nibs, violets, deep but vibrant scents in here. Full but not heavy (14.5% alcohol), held together with sturdy tannins and surprisingly fresh acidity. Deep, concentrated but tangy black currants and dark plums, the fruit is juicy but really vibrant, and laced with a nice mix of earth, mint, dark chocolate and cedar. Fresh enough to be enjoyed now, but strength for the cellar, surely. (93 points)

2014 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Audax - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $120

Deep purple color. Concentrated fruit on the nose (black currant, blackberries and blueberries), with deep violets, spiced black tea, earth, cocoa and mint. Full-bodied, a bit more powerful in its presence than the 2013, but still vibrant acidity, and the tannins are sturdy but show rounded edges. Pretty depth of fruit (currants, blackberries, plums), but it’s still nice and fresh. Notes of anise, cocoa, earth, mint and cedar. Plush and forward but lively. This could use five to eight years in the cellar, but it’s a lovely wine. 14.7% alcohol. (93 points)

2013 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford - California, Napa Valley, Rutherford

SRP: $70

Deep purple color. Rich purple color, with dark, concentrated blueberry, black cherry, along with anise, eucalyptus, dark chocolate, cocoa and earth. Full-bodied, significant tannins but it maintains a velvety feel, medium-low acidity. A dark, saucy style with blueberries, cassis, blackberries, along with notes of mint, eucalyptus, sweet cocoa, cedar. Rich and delicious but the balance lines up nicely here. Hedonistic now, but this could do some fun things over the next five years. Includes Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, aged 28 months in 67% new French oak. (90 points)

2014 Bootleg Wine Works Red - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $38

Medium purple color. Heck of a lot of plums and blackberries on the nose, with roasted fig, smoky charcoal, vanilla and mint. Full-bodied on the palate, this wine is all about the velvety mouthfeel, medium-low acidity, along with juicy plums, black cherries, blueberries, juicy and plump. Notes of mocha, scorched earth, vanilla, roasted chestnut. Big and hedonistic but well-made and undeniably yummy. A blend of Syrah, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 18 months in French and American oak. (89 points)

2014 Jason Stephens Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Central Coast, Santa Clara Valley

SRP: $34

Light purple color. Aromas of spice tea, anise and cocoa underneath currant jam, cherry compote, with tobacco and magic marker notes. Full but plush, chewy yet moderating acidity. Plums and currant compote laced with chai, clove, sweet coffee, anise and cedar. Bold but vibrant, cool stuff from Santa Clara! Includes 10% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 6% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc, aged 30 months in 25% new American oak. (88 points)

2014 Jason Stephens Winery Meritage - California, Central Coast, Santa Clara Valley

SRP: $34

Rich purple color. Aromas of saucy black cherries, dark plums, with a mix of floral potpourri, sweet cocoa, roasted and candied nuts. Full but suave on the palate with rich, plush tannins and medium/low acidity. Plummy, saucy black fruit mixed with cocoa, coffee, sweet pipe tobacco and herbs. Lovely, juicy, rich but accessible. 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 10% Malbec, 10% Carmenere, 10% Cabernet Franc, aged 36 months in oak. (88 points)

2014 Jason Stephens Winery Merlot - California, Central Coast, Santa Clara Valley

SRP: $24

Light purple color. Gushing nose of plums, black and red cherries, along with cinnamon, sweet herbs and vanilla. Full but smooth on the palate, velvety tannins, moderate acidity, and plenty of currants, plums, raspberry jam, backed up with anise, violets, vanilla. Juicy and suave fruit but a liveliness pervades the wine, too. Includes 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec, aged 36 month in 25% new oak. (88 points)

2016 French Bar Petite Sirah - California

SRP: $16

Bright purple color. Nose shows sweet cherries, boysenberry, with cola and black pepper glaze. Full and juicy on the palate with fleshy tannins and medium acidity. Flavors of baked figs, plum cake, tart currants, mixed with coffee and cola. Fun, approachable style. Includes 5% Teroldego and 2% Petite Verdot, aged eight months in French oak. (85 points)

2016 Steele Wines Shooting Star Zinfandel - California, North Coast, Lake County

SRP: $14

Dark ruby color. Aromas of plump plums, raspberries, juicy cherries, with roses, rhubarb and tobacco notes. Full-bodied but really vibrant, the acidity sings, and the tannins and smooth and velvety tannins. Lots of juicy, ripe but vibrant red berry fruit mixed in with tobacco, cocoa, mint and rose petals. Loving this ripe but crisp feel. Aged eight months in 20% new American and Hungarian oak. (87 points)

2016 Steele Wines Zinfandel Writer's Block - California, North Coast, Lake County

SRP: $18

Bright purple color. Juicy and plummy on the nose with raspberries and black cherries, topped in spicy tobacco, black pepper, roses, rhubarb. Juicy and approachable on the palate with light tannins and fresh acidity, and a nice mix of tangy raspberries, plums and black cherries. Smoky, tar, tobacco and floral tones mixed in nicely. Vibrant and fresh but fruity and fun. Aged 12 months in 15% new oak. (87 points)

2015 Markus Wine Co. Domo - California, Central Valley, Lodi

SRP: $39

Bright ruby color. Lovely aromas of spiced black tea, anise, violets and earth over tart red currants and raspberries. On the palate, this is crisp and vibrant, medium-bodied, with velvety tannins, but packed with flavor. Plummy with raspberries and black cherries, topped in complex notes of anise, cocoa, violets, pepper, earth. Deep mineral notes. complex yet deep and bright. This is gorgeous. Carignan, Petite Sirah and Syrah. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Exploring Wines from Michigan's Old Mission Peninsula

This week, I’m digging into some wines from Michigan’s Old Mission Peninsula. The state overall has lots of vineyards, most of which are planted to juice grapes like Concord and Niagara. But, wine grape acreage has been increasing and now tops 3,000 acres, putting it in the top 10 states. Some 50 different wine grape varieties are grown here, with Riesling the main one, followed by Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc. 

Most of Michigan’s grapes are grown close to Lake Michigan, like these ones from the Old Mission Peninsula American Viticultural Area (AVA). The lake affects the winegrowing by extends the growing season and it moderates the climate in the coldest months and can protect against frost. The Old Mission Peninsula juts out from Traverse City, and its rolling hills are surrounded on both sides by the East and West Traverse Bays of Lake Michigan.The nine wineries of the Old Mission Peninsula account for nearly 30% of the state’s wine grapes (and each winery is represented in this report). 

I’ve tasted a decent amount of Michigan wines in the past, but this lot was the most impressive I’ve come across yet. The white wines have a brisk, vibrant, aspect to them. Just smelling a few of these wines made me salivate. I’m glad this lot focused less on reds. I love Loire Valley reds even in wet vintages, for example, but I’ve felt some Michigan reds can struggle with body and depth. 

That said, I am stoked about the Michigan Gamay in this report. I kept revisiting it because it fascinated me, as a Beaujolais devotee and fan of Gamay from other regions. I was also excited to learn that, according to Michigan Wines, Gamay Noir acreage jumped from almost nothing in 2014, to 29 acres in 2016. I can only hope to find more Michigan Gamay of this quality.  

You may be skeptical (and for good reason), and surely there are some uninspired wines from Michigan. But there are some seriously good wines out here. I would drink the Bowers Chardonnay in this report over pretty much any California Chardonnay at a $16 price point, for example. And, seriously, the Chateau Grand Traverse Dry Riesling may be my favorite Riesling in America for its price. And even though this is a small sample size, I’m excited to follow how the rest of American opens up to Michigan’s wine culture. 

The wines below were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Black Star Farms Sauvignon Blanc Arcturos - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $18
Pale straw color. Zesty on the nose, with limes, lemons, guava, topped with nettle, white pepper and cucumber slices. Pleasantly light and fresh on the palate with crisp, zesty acidity and flavors of lemons and limes drizzled over guava. Notes of chalk and white flowers mix with nettle, mint and white pepper. A crisp, bright, vibrant, easy-drinking style of Sauv Blanc. (86 points) 

2017 Bowers Harbor Vineyards Chardonnay Unwooded - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula
SRP: $16
Light yellow color. Juicy aromas of green and yellow apples, kiwi, topped in yellow flowers and chalk dust. Plush texture, nice depth, but this is a bright and zesty Chardonnay with a salty, chalky streak to match the green apples and lemon curd. A cool mix of breezy floral and deeper honey and raw almond notes, with an underlying mineral streak. A pure, zesty, impressive Chardonnay from Michigan. (88 points) 

2017 Chateau Grand Traverse Dry Riesling - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula
SRP: $13
Medium yellow color. Aromas of juicy peaches, green melon, with a lovely flinty, mineral, chalky, mountain stream aesthetic, and plenty of flowers. Crisp and nervy on the palate, lots of texture and depth but so tangy, brisk and dry, too. White peaches, limes, lemons, mixed with complex floral and honey notes. Lovely stony, mineral, crushed shell aspect. I’ve enjoyed this producer before but this is an eye-opening Old Mission Peninsula Riesling. Crazy value. 10.5% alcohol. (90 points)

2016 Hawthorne Vineyards Rosé - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula
SRP: $12
Light raspberry color. Smells of subtle red fruits and floral tones, raspberries, sour red apple, roses and some white pepper. Crisp acidity on the palate, this shows high-toned red fruit (crunchy red apple, tangy cherry), along with rose petals and white pepper. Fun, straightforward, tangy, stuff, not too complex, but well made. A saignée method blend of Cabernet Franc, Pinot Meunier, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Gamay. (85 points) 

2016 2 Lads Cabernet Franc - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula
SRP: $35
Deep ruby color. Intense aromatics with tons of spice (black pepper, tobacco, clove) along with roses and tangy red currants. Dusty, light tannins on the palate with crisp, crunchy acidity. A leaner style with tangy red currants, red and black cherries. Lots of roses, pepper, sage, tobacco, over a constantly zippy aesthetic. Fresh, vibrant, interesting stuff! Includes 15% Merlot, aged nine months in a mix of French oak. (88 points) 

2017 Mari Vineyards Gamay Noir - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula
SRP: $26
Bright purple color. Love the nose: tart cherries, red currants, pomegranate, with elements of earth, pepper and rose petals. Crisp acidity frames this wine so well, and light tannins provide enough structure, but this goes down easily, with juicy but tart cherries, cranberries and red currants. Notes of roses, violets, black pepper, black tea and mushroom add significant complexity. A spicy, tart, vibrant, fruity, eye-opening Gamay for me. This was the first vintage of Gamay from this winery’s Jamieson Vineyard, and if this is any sign, this is a wine to pay attention to in the future. (90 points) 

2016 Brys Estate Pinot Noir Reserve - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula
SRP: $32
Pale ruby color. Bright and vibrant on the nose, rose petals, rhubarb, clove, white pepper, along with red cherries, cranberries, red apples, love the spicy edge to it. Medium-bodied on the palate with brisk, refreshing acidity and light, fine-grained tannins. Bright and crunchy with herbal tones that pop (rose petals, rhubarb, white pepper, clove). A bright style but shows some smoothness and velvety appeal, too. (87 points) 

2016 Chateau Chantal Proprietor's Reserve Trio - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula
SRP: $27
Light purple color. Aromas of tart cherries and red plums, along with rose hips, spicy pepper, sliced bell pepper and smoky tar. Medium-bodied on the palate with zippy acidity and lean tannins, a brisk approach here. Tart plums and cherries topped in spicy pepper, anise, rhubarb and soy. Lighter, fresher, veggie-friendly style. A blend of 61% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Franc and 1% Pinot Noir. (85 points)

2016 Peninsula Cellars Riesling Late Harvest - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula
SRP: $19
Light straw color. Aromas of sugar cane, white flowers, clean laundry, on top of white peaches, honey and spiced tea. Plump and rich on the palate, sweet and honeyed but crisp, vibrant acidity throughout, and the depth is impressive. Oranges, white peaches, apricots, honeyed and juicy but vibrant and crisp with mineral, chalky, floral elements. This is lovely, balanced stuff. 8.5% alcohol, 8.75% residual sugar. (87 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Year-End Round-Up

Happy holidays, wine-lovers! I sure hope your holidays are filled with friends, family, fun, and plenty of good wine. As the year wraps up, I have a bunch of wines that didn’t fit neatly into a particular category, so I wanted to include them in my final grab bag report of 2018. And this one has some goodies.

Starting with Argentina’s Domaine Bousquet: Their vineyards, in the Andes foothills appellation of Tupungato, sit in gravelly, sandy soils at about 4,000 feet in elevation. The wines have lots of juicy fruit but the freshness is really attractive, and the balance and depth for their prices is quite impressive.

Ferraton Père & Fils deliver yet again with a pair of sub-$20 Rhone blends, a white and a red, which offer up a lot of class and style in this price point. At $30, M. Chapoutier’s new vintage of the Occultum Lapidem red blend is insanely good, deep, and cellar-worthy.

Italy’s Abruzzi region has a few value-friendly wines in this report, as well as an Amarone that would pair perfectly with a snowstorm and a campfire. Portugal’s Douro provides a few tasty red blends in this report, while I’ve included three American reds from Inconceivable. Lastly, Troon, from Oregon’s Applegate Valley, comes through again with an excellent pair of Tannat-based reds. They excel with all sorts of grapes and wines, and I loved these reds for their uniquely fresh, crunchy, lip-smacking appeal.

All of these wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Domaine Bousquet Chardonnay Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP $18
Medium yellow color. Nose shows honey, peanut brittle, almond and ginger on top of yellow apples and apricots. Plump and rich texturally, but zesty acidity, and the balance is quite nice. Juicy apples and apricot mixed with graham cracker, almond, honeyed white tea, with salty, floral tones, too. Rich but fresh, a nice combination of elements here, this is delicious and good for the price. (88 points)

2017 Domaine Bousquet Malbec Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $18
Rich purple color. Deep and saucy but bright with spiced cranberry sauce, fig paste, smoky blackberries, with pipe tobacco, charcoal pit, and sweet, spiced black tea – lots going on here. Rich texture, velvety tannins, the acidity is vibrant. Tangy black cherries, plum, cranberry jam, with lots of herbal, earthy, spicy elements, an underlying mineral, floral aesthetic. Toffee and cocoa notes woven in nicely. Lots on offer here, but it’s still fresh, fun, and easy-drinking style for consumption over the next few years. Includes 5% apiece of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, aged 10 months in French oak. (90 points)

2017 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Blanc Samorëns - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
SRP: $16
Light yellow color. Juicy peaches and guava, some lemon crème pie, sea salt and honey. Juicy, plump, waxy texture but fresh acidity. Yellow apples, peaches, guava, the fruit is topped in flowers, honey, hay, sea salt. All elements woven in quite nicely, and there’s a delicious mineral kick on the zesty finish. A blend of Clairette and Grenache Blanc. Solid value, loving the freshness. (88 points)

2017 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Villages Rouge Plan de Dieu - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages Plan de Dieu
SRP: $18
Light purple color. Super spicy on the nose, with sage, menthol, black pepper, bay leaf, scorched earth, over top of raspberries and black cherries. Suave and velvety on the palate, medium/full-bodied with moderating acidity. Raspberries, black cherries, plum sauce, the fruit is mixed with anise, pepper, earth and leather. Lots of interesting flavors here, this is really nicely done for the price. 65 % Grenache, 25% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. (88 points)

2016 M. Chapoutier Domaine de Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages Latour
SRP: $30
Deep purple color. Nose of concentrated black currants and dark plums, mixed with lots of violets, menthol, anise, grilled herbs, some leather and pepper, too. Serious grip from the tannins but the acidity is lovely and balancing, and the black fruit is dark and deep but crunchy. Lots of black pepper, sage, mint, coffee anise, this is packed with depth and flavor but stays fresh. This has the stuffing to age and improve for at least a decade. 50% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 20% Carignan from vines averaging 60 years old. (92 points)

2017 Fattoria La Valentina Pecorino - Italy, Abruzzi, Colline Pescaresi IGT
SRP: $16
Deep yellow color. Aromas of pineapple, lemon, papaya, with some flowers and honey. Juicy and plump on the palate with crisp acidity, and flavors of pineapple, apricot and lemon cake. Notes of sea salt, minerals, whipped honey and almond, this is rich and deep but stays lively and crisp, too. Complexity is impressive. All stainless steel. (89 points)

2015 Fattoria La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
SRP: $14
Rich purple color. Plump and juicy on the palate with plump black cherries, cassis, coffee, vanilla. Chewy texture on the palate with medium/light tannins and moderating acidity. Juicy black cherries, plums, topped in smoke, earth, coffee and vanilla. Juicy, accessible, fun stuff. Mostly stainless steel with some Slavonian oak. (86 points)

2015 Fattoria La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva Spelt - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
SRP: $21
Light purple color. Aromas of dark cherries, plums, blackberry, along with earthy, dark flower petals, clove, some leathery notes. Smooth texture on the palate, dusty tannins with moderating acidity, fresh black cherries and plums abound. I get notes of smoky charcoal, leather, mint, clove and earth. Some floral and savory elements on the finish. This is in a good place now but could do well with a few more years. Aged 16 months in Slavonian oak. (90 points)

2013 Pasqua Amarone della Valpolicella - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. The nose shows lots of roasted plums and figs, cassis, violets, and some cool incense, coffee, earth and peppery notes. Full and rich, grippy but not too heavy or harsh, with some medium acidity for balance. Suave but tart black cherries, raisings and roasted figs, backed up with black licorice, coffee, cedar and dark chocolate. Impressive depth, but not heavy, this shows some interesting earthy, savory elements on the finish as well. Cellar-worthy but surprisingly accessible in its youth. 65% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 5% Corvinone and 5% Negrara. (90 points)

2016 Dow Douro Reserva Vale do Bomfim - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $13
Deep purple color. Nose is deep and dark with roasted plums, blackberries, violets, earth, warm black tea. Juicy on the palate, a medium/full-bodied frame with velvety tannins and lively acidity. Dark, saucy fruit (plums and black cherries) mixed with dark chocolate, violets, loamy earth, charcoal. Warm, lovely, dark and earthy but vibrant, this is so good at this price point. (88 points)

2015 Quinta do Vesuvio Douro Pombal do Vesuvio - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $28
Rich purple color. Nose shows lots of plums, black cherries and blackberries, topped in vanilla, cocoa, but also soy and spicy herbs. The palate shows structured tannins (not harsh), moderating acidity, and lots of tangy black cherries and cassis. Quite complex in terms of the pepper, earth, sage, smoky charcoal and mineral tones. Showing well now but will improve over the next few years. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Naciona and Tinta Amarela, aged 10 months in French oak. (89 points)

2015 Inconceivable Wines Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $25
Medium ruby color. Bright red and juicy black cherries, along with sweet raspberry, cola, with cocoa, mint and sweet tobacco. Juicy but really fresh on the palate, with vibrant acidity and smooth, light tannins. Red cherries and juicy plums, tangy but plump fruit, mixed in with notes of roasted chestnut, mint, eucalyptus, cola and roses. A lot going on here for the price. Aged 10 months in 60% new French oak. (88 points)

2014 Inconceivable Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $25
Light purple color. Nose shows tangy black cherries and juicy plums, I get a nice mix of earth, cocoa, cedar and eucalyptus. Full-bodied (14.5%) with slightly chewy tannins and medium acidity. Tangy black currants and cherries, nice zip to the fruit. Mixed in with tobacco, earth, charcoal and some moderate cocoa and cedar. Fun stuff, accessible but nice complexity as well. Includes some Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, this wine spends 23 months in a mix of used and new French oak. (88 points)

2014 Inconceivable Wines Red - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $25
Light purple color. Nose boasts juicy plums and sweet black cherries, along with a nice mix of tobacco, smoky charcoal, pepper and earth. Full-bodied and smooth, light grip to the tannins, not harsh but nice structure, medium acidity, all balanced quite well. Plums, blackberries and tart black cherries mix with tobacco, pepper, leather, soy, some cocoa and vanilla. Complexity and balance is really impressive at this price point. Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Viognier. (90 points)

2016 Troon Vineyard Tannat - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Deep purple color. Tart but deep on the nose, with tangy black cherries, dark plums, and loaded with lavender, violets, roses, inky and coffee and clove. Full-bodied with some serious grip to the tannins, but moderated by lovely acidity. Tart black cherries, cassis, lovely fruit mixed with complex notes of flowers, potpourri, clove, anise, rocky earth. Long, full, complex, I’m stoked to see what this does with five years or so in the cellar. Aged 18 months in mature oak. (90 points)
2016 Troon Vineyard Cuvée Pyrénées - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $60
Bright purple color. Aromas of tart blackberries, sour cherries, black currant, raspberry, such bright and lively fruit mixed in with sage, violets, clove, warm leather and herbs. Crisp and lively acidity from start to finish on the palate, with velvety tannins and vibrant red and black fruit (currants, plums, raspberries), laced with savory herbs, lots of violets and floral potpourri. Deep earthy, mineral element here, too. Vibrant and delicious now but I’d be interested in what this does over the next few years. Tannat and Malbec, co-fermented, aged 18 months in old oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Virginia Bubbles for the Holidays

Sparkling wine as a category has been on the rise here in the States for a while. And Virginia is no exception.

Earlier this month I did a round-up of sparkling wines. I love drinking bubbles (especially Champagne) all year, but the holiday season surely correlates with more frequent bubble-popping. But the day after that post ran, I tasted four bubblies from Virginia that I wanted to highlight.

This tasting was coordinated by Virginia wine buff Frank Morgan and attended by three Virginia winemakers and one cidery.

I'm not a huge cider fan, but I was blown away by how good the cider in this report showed. And three other reliable Virginia producers delivered with their sparkling wines.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.


2017 Castle Hill Cider Levity - Virginia
SRP: $25
Golden apricot/honey colored. The nose boasts lots of honey, apple blossom, warm white tea and an earthy-dusty notes. Crisp and zesty on the palate, bright, quite dry, with lemons, apples, apricot, along with notes of spiced tea, honey. Earthy and savory and herbal tones underneath, this is a subtle, vibrant and complex cider. 50% Harrison apples with the rest a mix of nine different varieties. Fermented in buried terra-cotta pots (a la Georgian qvevri) with native yeasts, 7.9% alcohol. (90 points)

2018 Early Mountain Malvasia Bianca Petillant Naturel - Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $27
Pale lemon color with fine bubbles. The aromas burst with dandelion, orange blossom, lychee, guava and honey. Crisp and bright on the palate, with light bubbles, yet lots of juicy tropical fruit (lychee, green melon, guava). Brisk, bright and fun but lots of honey, orange blossoms, nettle, clean laundry. Another solid Mid-Atlantic Pet-Nat, and I think Malvasia Bianca lends itself very well to this style. 10% alcohol. (89 points) 

2014 Veritas Vineyard Scintilla Brut - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $30
Light gold color. Rich and biscuit with sugar cane, apricot, baked apple, bread dough, toasted almonds, some yellow flowers. Plump texture on the palate, richly fruity with apples, apricot, lemon crème pie, but bright acidity keeps it fresh. A mix of doughy, flinty, musky notes as well, with some floral and honey on the finish. 90% Chardonnay and 10% Cabernet Franc, 12% alcohol, 12 g/l dosage. (87 points) 

2017 Rappahannock Cellars Sparkling Rosé - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Rappahannock County
SRP: $34
Bright watermelon color. Nose shows strawberries, white cherries and red apple peel topped in strong musk, white pepper, clove and nettle notes. Bright acidity frames the wine nicely, but this has a lot of textural depth and richness. Red apples, strawberries, cherries, the fruit is generous and deep and topped in white pepper, chalk dust, honeyed white tea and basil notes. 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 30% Cab Franc, 10% Petit Verdot, 8 g/l dosage. (88 points)

Wine Reviews: Sparkling Wines for the Holidays

So, the holiday season is in full swing, and, like every year, the bubbles abound. 

I drink Champagne (and, to a lesser extent, Champagne-method bubbles from other regions) year-round, but the average occurrence of bubbly-popping definitely spikes between Thanksgiving and New Year’s. 

In this report, Champagne gets its due, with some wines from the houses of Bruno Paillard and Laurent Perrier. Gloria Ferrer, the Sonoma bubbly powerhouse, offers up three budget-friendly offerings, and a Santa Barbara sparkler from Lucas & Lewellen impresses. Lastly, a few sparklers from Alsace deliver — Crémant d’Alsace being one of my favorite sources of inexpensive but delicious sparkling wines. 

All of the wines in this report were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. Happy holidays, and I hope the last few days of your 2018 include some lovely Champagne-method wines. 

N.V. Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $22
Light copper color. Nose shows lemons, grapefruit, sea salt, white flowers, some musk notes. Crisp and bright on the palate with fresh acidity, fine bubbles, and very light biscuit notes. Green apples, apricots, wild strawberries, backed up with chalk dust and floral perfume notes. Fresh, bright, these are fun, accessible bubbles for the price. Mostly Pinot Noir with about 14% Chardonnay. (87 points) 

N.V. Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs - California, Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $22
Pale copper color. Smells fresh and bright with red apples, raspberries, rose hips and some salted biscuits. Fresh and crisp with a salty, zippy, light appeal. Raspberries, red apple and lemon mix with white flowers, white pepper and sea salt notes. Some sugar adds to the texture and flavor, but it stays fresh and fun for the price. Includes a bit of Chardonnay, this spends 18 months on the lees. (87 points) 

N.V. Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs - California, Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $22
Light yellow color. Aromas are tart and tangy with limes and green apples, light biscuits, sea salt, with some nettle and honeysuckle. Light and zesty on the palate with fine bubbles, this is fun and fresh with lines and green apples. Saline, chalk, lots of white flowers. Fresh and fun but significant complexity, this is a solid bubbly for holiday parties for sure. Aged two years on the lees, 100% Chardonnay. (88 points) 

2016 Lucas & Lewellen Brut - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $36
Deep yellow color. Nose shows a bunch of honey and graham cracker on top of yellow apples, apricots, and floral perfume. Ooh, this is nice on the palate, some rich texture with honeyed, baked apple elements nice hint of sweetness to the fruit but a brisk appeal. Flowers, graham crackers, honey, chalk, sea salt and toasted bread. A lot of flavor, depth and appeal here. 55% Pinot Noir, 45% Chardonnay. (90 points) 

N.V. Pierre Sparr Crémant d’Alsace Brut Réserve - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $19
Deep yellow color. On the nose, lots of chalk, sea salt, crushed shells, with lemons, green apples, ginger and baguette notes. Super bright and zesty but some plumpness as well. Crunchy green apples, lemons, limes, doused in chalk, limestone and mountain stream. Ginger, musk, mineral, toasted baguette notes, all of this combines in a bracing but richly textured Crémant that is surprisingly good for the money. 80% Pinot Blanc and 20% Pinot Auxerrois. (89 points) 

N.V. Keuntz-Bas Crémant d'Alsace Brut Tradition - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $18
Deep yellow color. The aromas show lots of honey, salted almond, biscuits, spiced white tea, with apricot and yellow apples. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely but there’s a nice honeyed, biscuity richness as well. Bruised apple and apricot topped in honeyed tea, ginger, sea salt, minerals. Rich but zesty, lovely balance and complexity here, especially when you consider the price point. A blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc aged 18 months on the lees. (89 points) 

N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne Brut Nature “Ultra Brut” - France, Champagne
SRP: $80
Medium yellow color. Lots of yellow apples, apricots, lemon curd, with rich honey, toasted biscuits and salted butter, but also bright chalk and sea salt notes. Precise and brisk on the palate with focused acidity but plenty of texture and depth. Apricots, yellow apples, lemons, laced with sea salt, crushed shells, with rich, deep notes of honey, ginger snap, toasted biscuits. The focus, precision and minerality is really impressive, this wine is lip-smackingly tasty with significant complexity. 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir, no dosage, aged six years on the lees. (91 points) 

N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne Harmony Demi-Sec - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Medium yellow color. Nose shows rich honey, apricot marmalade, candied ginger and apple peel, some sea salt biscuit notes. Plump and sweet on the palate but shows vibrancy throughout, sugar cane and candied apple notes mix with chalk, dried flowers and limestone. This is rich and sweet but shows liveliness as well, and would pair nicely with pastries or after-dinner cheeses. 45% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Meunier, 45 g/l dosage. (89 points) 

N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Brut Premiere Cuvée - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Rich yellow color. Nice mix of chalk, limestone, flowers, with lemons, apricots, and notes of biscuits and toasted almond. Brisk and vibrant on the palate with clean, crisp acidity and lots of minerals and chalk and crushed shells. Flavors of lemons, orange, apricot mix with biscuits, flowers, ginger, and minerals. Lovely, as usual, from Bruno Paillard. From 32 different villages, vinified separately, this wine consists of 45% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay, 22% Pinot Meunier, with at least 25% reserve wine. Disgorged Sept. 2017. (90 points) 

N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $70
Deep yellow color. Brisk nose of sea salt, crushed chalk, white flowers and fresh biscuits on top of lemon curd, green apple, apricot. Pretty, clean and crisp on the palate with salty minerals and high acidity, but some nice depth and texture throughout. Lemon, crunchy apricot and green apples mixed with honey, chalk, mountain streams and minerals. Dry, crunchy, vibrant. Aged four years on the lees, with a 5 g/l dosage. Disgorged October 2016. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: New Releases from California

We’re headed back to California this week for another batch of new releases.

I’ve reviewed the wines of Jed Steele several times in the past, and they continue to offer tons of value for the money. Although the winery sources grapes from other regions, all of the wines in this report hail from Lake County. With more than 50 vintages under his belt, these are tried and true California wines that deliver gobs of goodness, and most of them cost $20 or less.

I also reviewed two wines from Windvane, the new Ramey Claret, and the new release of Cardinale, the latter of which (while expensive), is something to behold.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Steele Wines Riesling Shooting Star - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $14
Pale straw color. Aromas of lime, peaches and lychee, mixed in with new tennis ball and clover honey. Crisp and punchy, the sugar (about 20 grams/liter) is woven in well. Lemons, peaches, guava and lychee, lot of juicy, tropical goodness mixed with a lot of orange blossoms, honey and dandelion. Fun Riesling at a good price. 12.1% alcohol. (86 points)

2017 Steele Wines Viognier - California, North Coast, Lake County
$20

Light yellow color. Lovely aromas of peaches, kiwi, lemon curd, with whipped honey, orange blossoms, yellow flowers. Full and plump on the palate, nice waxy texture but — crisp acidity in my Viognier? Love it. Peaches, lemon curd, oranges, kiwi, fun and fruity but balanced and quite complex, with stony minerals, honey, white and yellow flowers. Excellent value, this is even better than I remember the 2016. Stainless steel fermented and aged four months in old oak. (90 points)

2016 Steele Wines Merlot Shooting Star - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $15
Light purple. Aromas of plums, black cherries, along with some violets, pepper and leather, which I find really attractive. The balance on the palate is quite nice, a good mix of dusty-light tannins and really fresh acidity. Black cherries, tangy currants, summer plums, the fruit is mixed with elements of cocoa, leather, pepper. Fresh and juicy but nice complexity, too. Aged eight months in French and American oak. (87 points)

2016 Steele Wines Cabernet Franc - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Nose shows pure, deep plums and black cherries on the nose, along with anise, pepper, sage and sweet cocoa. Full but fresh, medium-strength tannins meets moderate acidity, balanced off of black cherries and dark plums, rich but tangy fruit. Notes of loamy earth, black pepper, anise, with coffee and wood notes woven in well. Yummy now, this could actually age for a few years, too. Aged 14 months in 30% new French and American oak. (88 points)

2016 Steele Wines Cabernet Franc Writer's Block - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $17
Deep ruby, light purple. Smells of sweet plums and red and black cherries, with cola, clove and black pepper, some violets and earth. Fleshy and velvety but stays fresh, a nice mix of juicy, tangy, red and black cherries and plums, backed up by notes of cedar, cola, coffee, and some black pepper and earth. Fun, pleasant, shows some complexity at the price point. (87 points)

2016 Steele Wines Syrah Stymie Founder’s Reserve - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $38
Deep purple color. Smells like tart black currants and dark plums, along with smoky, earthy, leathery notes that are quite complex, along with some violets and clove. Full-bodied, surprising acidity on the palate, integrated but structured tannins, and tangy plums and black cherries — the balance is quite nice. Lots of violets, clove, pepper and leather notes, some cocoa and wood as well, with an earthy, tangy finish. Nice now, but you could easily forget about this in the cellar for three or four years. Aged 22 months in 20% new French and American oak. (90 points)

2016 Windvane Chardonnay - California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $40
Light yellow color. Nose boasts yellow apples, lemon curd, apricot, along with toasted almond, whipped butter and sea salt. Full and rich, a bold and classic style but fresh acidity keeps it lively. Lemon curd, bruised apple, mixed with nougat, honey butter, spiced white tea, sea salt and ginger. Bold but lovely depth and balance. About a third of the wine goes through maloactic fermentation, and the wine is aged nine months in ¼ new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Windvane Pinot Noir - California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $45
Dark ruby color. Pretty, warm, inviting nose with raspberries, black cherries, birch beer, rose petals. Full-bodied but crisp and bright with fleshy tannins and flavors of cherries, raspberry jam, dark plums. Notes of cola, rhubarb, mint and cedar, with some nice floral, earthy depth. Lovely vibrancy here, and I’d love to see this in three to four years. Aged nine months in 46% new French oak. (90 points)

2016 Ramey Claret - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $42
Deep ruby color. I love the nose, a mix of juicy, bright fruit (cherries, cranberries, currant) along with anise, tilled soil and pine. Full-bodied but velvety, this wine is smooth and approachable but balanced with vibrant acidity. Nice depth to the red and black cherries, spiced cranberry sauce flavors, along with sweet spice, lots of floral and earthy tones. Deep but lots of brightness and spicy elements. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with 26% Merlot, 12% Malbec, 8% Syrah and 20% Petit Verdot aged 12 months in 13% new French and American oak. (90 points)

2015 Cardinale - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $275
Bright purple color. Needs time to open up, but has lovely aromas: showing blackberries, dark currants, plums, concentrated but lovely fruit, with complex notes of sweet pipe tobacco, mint, eucalyptus, black tea, vanilla. Full-bodied, structured but so velvety and suave, medium acidity keeping it vibrant. Blackberry, cassis, plum, mixed with a complex host of roasted chestnut, espresso, tobacco, mint, charcoal, earth and mineral. Complex, long-lasting, this could be buried and forgotten for a long time but gorgeous and polished young. A blend of fruit from 12 different vineyards across Napa Valley, with a focus on Mountain fruit, this includes 10% Howell Mountain Merlot. This is aged 20 months in 84% new French oak. (96 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terrroirist.

Always a Good Time for Albariño from Rias Baixas

Albarino grapes being harvested in Rias Baixas. Credit: Rias Baixas Wines.

I love Albariño, and there’s no better place to find the good ones than the Rias Baixas region of Galicia, Spain. 

This winegrowing region, located across the Miño River from Portugal, produces 99% white wine, and Albariño makes up about 96% of all grape varieties planted there. So, it’s safe to say, producers here know what they’re doing with the grape. 

Rias Baixas wines get lots of cooling, coastal influences from the Atlantic Ocean, and the region is also known for its series of jagged inlets, like shallow fjords, called rias. (The region’s name means “lower rias.”) The region is divided into five subzones (Val do Salnés, Ribeira do Ulla, Condado de Tea, O Rosal, and Soutomaior) typified by their topography and proximity to the ocean or rivers. The soils here boast lots of granite and schist, and the rivers add in alluvial elements. 

All of this results in wines that are bright, vibrant, floral, salty, crisp and full of minerals. Plenty of fruit for sure, but I love the complexity of non-fruit elements in Albariño, and its lively, food-friendly appeal. It’s cold and windy on the East Coast as I write this, but crisp white wines are always welcome on my table, regardless of season. 

I’ve covered this region before, but I recently tasted a few Albariño wines from Rias Baixas, and found a lot of quality for the price points. I received these wines as trade samples and tasted them single-blind (except for the sole sparkling one). 


2017 Santiago Ruiz Albariño - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas, O Rosal
SRP: $20

Medium yellow color. So floral on the nose, with all kinds of blossoms and baby’s breath, along with peaches, lemon curd, petrichor and sea salt. Crisp and fresh on the palate with zesty acidity and a clean, mineral-driven appeal. Lemons, peaches, nectarine, laced with sea salt, white tea, honeysuckle and minerals. Juicy, fleshy, yet so nervy and crisp, this is just lovely. (90 points)

2017 Marqués de Frías Albariño - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas
SRP: $13
Rich yellow color. Bright and floral with magnolia and lemongrass, lots of kiwi and peaches and honey, sea salt. Juicy white peaches, kiwis and limes, a plump texture but brisk acidity. A floral, honeyed, salty complexity here that is really attractive, a lot of depth and some exciting mineral and seashell notes. Complex, delicious, and very, very good for the price. (89 points) 

2016 Pazo Pondal Albariño - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas
SRP: $20
Bold yellow color. Perfumed with white peaches, lemons, lots of nettle, cut flower stems, crusty sea salt. Crisp acidity on the palate but lots of juicy appeal and punchy fruit (orange, white peach, lemon curd). Notes of ocean spray, sea salt and crushed shells mix nicely with white and yellow flowers. Impressive, depth, precision, this is a delicious Albarino. (90 points) 

2017 Bodegas Altos de Torona Albariño Sobre Lías - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas, O Rosal 
SRP: $20
Medium yellow color. Bursting aromas of limes, lemons, green and yellow apples, with lots of white flowers, sea salt, oyster shell, some green onion, too. A plump texture balances out with the bright acidity, along with lemons and limes, green apples, white peach, fruity but really fresh. Complex notes of honeysuckle, nettle, sea salt, crushed chalk. Love the balance here between zesty and juicy elements. (89 points) 

2016 Bodegas As Laxas Sparkling Albariño Sensum - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas
SRP: $30
Medium yellow color with fine bubbles. So bright on the nose, like a bouquet of honeysuckle, baby’s breath, dandelion and lilies, along with white peaches and lemons. Crisp acidity on the palate, with a nervy appeal and light, focused bubbles (not a lot of yeasty depth). This is a zesty, light, brisk sparkler with lemons and white peaches mixed in with a generous helping of flowers, minerals and chalk. Lots of fun, and so widely food-friendly. (88 points)  

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.