Napa Wines Like None Other: Ashes & Diamonds

I’m back this week to focus on more California wines, this time from Napa’s Ashes & Diamonds.

This project was founded by California native Kashy Khaledi, a media and advertising executive, in 2013. The winery brands itself as “a love letter to Napa Valley as it was when it took the world stage in the 1960s.” Their glassy, mid-century modern winery, located off Highway 29, looks like a fascinating place to visit.

For winemaking duties, Khaledi wisely sought out renowned winemaker Steve Matthiasson and Diana Snowden Seysses, enologist at Domaine Dujac and winemaker at Snowden Vineyards. The several vineyard sources seem like truly special sites, from the gravelly, clay and loam soils of the Ashes & Diamonds Vineyard in Oak Knoll to the thin, rocky soils of the Mountain Peak Vineyard in the Atlas Peak appellation.

I had been aware of these wines for a while, but never wrapped my palate around one until recently. I receive and review a lot of California wines, many of which I appreciate and enjoy. But it’s rare that I taste wines that get me as stoked as these. Sipping these wines, I was shocked at their complexity, vibrancy, effortlessness. The wines are really special and delicious, and perfect for palates with a tendency toward old-school California and Old World styles.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.  

2017 Ashes & Diamonds Blanc No. 3 - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Bright yellow color. Wow, the aromas are stunning and invigorating. Quince, fig, lemon peel, papaya, the fruit is topped in yellow flowers, honey, candle wax, sea salt, mountain stream. Precise and focused on the palate, the light body (11.9% alcohol) meets a deeply textured wine, full of apricot, lemon and green melon fruit. Brisk, mineral, wild herb, honey and chalk notes add all sorts of complexity. Such a nervy, packed wine, this will improve for many years. 50/50 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon from two vineyards in Oak Knoll and Yountville, barrel-fermented, aged 10 months in 30% new French oak. (94 points)

2019 Ashes & Diamonds Rosé No. 4 - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $39
Medium copper color. Such an inviting and vibrant mix of aromas, from yellow pear, apricot and raspberry, to celery seed, mint, with notes of crushed shells, clover and chalk dust. Crisp and bright on the palate (12.4%) balanced with this textural depth and flavor complexity. Apricot, melon rind, white peaches and lemons, the fruit is juicy and pure, accented with all sorts of floral, salty, flinty, mineral, herbal tones. Beautiful presence on the palate, opens up wonderfully with air. A fantastic rosé that you can enjoy now or forget about for a few years and be assured of deliciousness. Whole-cluster Made from Cabernet Franc from Carneros, Oak Knoll and Yountville. (92 points)

2017 Ashes & Diamonds Cabernet Sauvignon Mountain Cuvée No. 2 Bates Ranch - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
SRP: $105
Medium purple color. So fresh and inviting on the nose, with chilled black cherries, plums, topped generously with spicy black tea, clove, plenty of rocky, dusty tones, with pepper, violets. Fresh and crisp on the palate, this is a medium-bodied Cabernet (13%) with structured but fine tannins and incredible balance and mouthfeel. Cool black cherries, crunchy plums and wild blackberry fruit mix so well with mint, tilled soil, violets, clove. Lots of pepper, mushroom and mineral tones come out, more so with air. This is beautiful but needs several years at least to show its best. From a 2,100-foot vineyard on a 30% southeast slope. Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc, aged 19 months in 40% new French oak. (94 points)

2017 Ashes & Diamonds Cabernet Sauvignon No. 2 Mountain Peak Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Atlas Peak
SRP: $125
Medium purple color. What a gorgeous nose! Vibrant currants, tangy plums, juicy blackberries, with inviting notes of warm clay, rocky earth, leather, cocoa and mint – needs time to open and show its full aromatic potential, but lots to unpack. Medium-bodied with precise acidity throughout, the tannins show structure but refinement. Black and red currant fruit abounds, with suave plums, and the fruit is laced with fascinating elements of green herbs, leather, rocky earth, black tea and anise. Beautiful, refined but age-worthy – what a stunner. Aged 19 months in 30% new French oak. (94 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Hawk and Horse Vineyards' Lake County Reds

Credit: Hawk and Horse Vineyards

California is on my mind and heart these days, as I watch from afar as these fires destroy so much. My thoughts and hopes are with all of you affected by these California fires. Stay safe.

There's never been a better time to support California wineries, so today I want to shine a light on some interesting wines from Lake County, which has some special sites and exciting vineyards. These wines still don’t get nearly as much attention as wines from its neighboring counties, but that just means there is much to explore. I’ve tried to highlight different Lake County producers, and this week, I’m excited to dig into an old favorite: Hawk and Horse Vineyards.

After an exhaustive search for a site in the North Coast, David Boies settled on the El Roble Grande Ranch in Lower Lake, California, in 1982. It was an abandoned horse-breeding facility surrounded by 900 acres of wilderness. But the high-elevation (1,800 to 2,200 feet), red volcanic soils, pristine nature and access to water, showed potential for growing great grapes.

Co-owners Mitch and Tracey Hawkins took over daily ranch operations and planted the vines in 2001. Today, they have about 18 acres of grapes, mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with about an acre apiece of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Petite Sirah. The winery still houses some horses and cattle, and is home to many red-tailed hawks (hence the name). The vineyards have been certified organic since 2004 and biodynamic since 2008.

I’ve tasted this Cabernet Sauvignon a few times over the years, and found it to be a consistently exciting and dynamic wine, showing structure, pretty fruit, and some unique and complex earthy, spicy tones. It seemed like a wine that could age, but I never had the chance to test that out, until now. In addition to the other wines in this tasting report, the winery is also selling a trio of library releases (which includes the 2008, 2009 and 2010 vintages) for $330. While that’s not cheap, if these wines said Napa on the label, I think folks would call this a “value.” Tasting these aged wines was an eye-opening experience that really allows the taster to understand the intricacies of this special place.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2008 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $110
Light purple color. Aromas of mulled cherries and plums, still lively, aged but by no means tired, with notes of anise, cocoa, charcoal, tart. Velvety, smooth tannins (still some dusty grip) with medium acidity. Black currant, roasted sweet plum fruit, nuanced and aged but still juicy. Integrated and balanced with elements of pine tar, fallen leaves, cedar and cocoa powder. Complex, interesting, and not done yet. Includes 2% Merlot, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)

2009 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $110
Deep purple color. Aromas of mulled blackberries and red currants, dark and saucy, with anise, graphite, lots of tar, some mocha and leather. Full-bodied but fresh on the palate with structured, suave tannins and medium acidity. The tangy blackberry and spiced currant jam fruit is lovely, and accented with leather, coffee beans, anise cookie, fallen leaves. Still vibrant, the acidity is great, the fruit is waning and allowing secondary notes to take the forefront, but it’s still in a great place right now and will evolve well over the next five years. All Cabernet aged 13 months in 100% new French oak. (91 points)

2010 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $110
Medium purple color. Nose of black currants and blackberry with smoky earth, menthol, tar, sooty but lively with dark chocolate and anise – gorgeous aromatics. On the palate, this is lively and balanced, tannins still grippy, fresh acidity, along with plums and mulled currants. Lots of underlying mineral, graphite and rocky earth tones, with dried leaves and soy. Wow, this has some Left Bank signatures but clearly California, too. I’d love to see this in three or four years. Really well done, holding up great. All Cabernet aged 21 months in 90% new French oak. (92 points)

2015 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $75
Medium purple color. Aromas of plums, dark currants, laced with smoky earth, leather, tar, fallen leaves, with notes of iron and menthol. Full-bodied, structured and suave with fresh acidity. Deep, tart fresh fruit (blueberry, black currant, plums) with complex notes of charcoal, pencil shavings, clove and anise. Deep but fresh, especially after tasting the older wines, I realize just how long this vintage will probably last. Hold or decant. Includes 10% Petit Verdot and 6% Cabernet Franc aged 23 months in 80% new French oak. (91 points)

2016 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Block Three - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. Nose shows rich plums, prunes, violets, saucy blueberries, with graphite, vanilla and coffee. Full, smooth, fresh, impressive balanced, with roasted but tangy fruit (fig, blueberries, black currants), along with concentrated notes of mint chocolate chip, anise, charcoal, dark chocolate. Forward, dark and concentrated, but shows freshness underneath, and significant complexity. I’d hold onto this for a few years. Includes 5% Petit Verdot, aged 25 months in French oak. (90 points)

2015 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Petite Sirah - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $65
Deep purple. Nose of deep, tart currants, along with plums, smoky earth, graphite, tobacco and ink. Full-bodied, built solidly, but there’s some freshness as well. Dark plums, saucy blueberries, fleshy but vibrant with lots of iron, pencil lead, charcoal, balsamic glazed mushrooms, grilled steak. Smoky and deep but also fresh – this would be great in a few years, as those savory elements come out even more. All Petite Sirah aged 20 months in French oak. (90 points)

2014 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Latigo - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $50/375ml
Medium purple color. Aromas of sweet figs, roasted plums, mixed with inviting elements of toffee, dark chocolate, vanilla, also earthy, roasted herb tones – lovely stuff to sniff. Plush and rich on the palate (19% alcohol) with smooth tannins, moderating acidity really helps balance out the sweetness – well-integrated. Flavors of sweet figs and saucy plums and blackberry glaze, suave, delightful fruit. Notes of caramel, espresso, roasted nuts mix so well with these black tea, charcoal and graphite elements. This is a delicious, complex, all Cabernet Franc dessert wine. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Brengman Brothers' Exciting Michigan Wines

Michigan wines have fascinated me for a while, so I’m excited to be back this week tasting a bunch of wines from Brengman Brothers.

This family-run winery, now entering its 17th vintage, is based near Traverse City, Michigan, in the Leelanau Peninsula American Viticultural Area (AVA). The peninsula, which juts into Grand Traverse Bay, is home to more than 20 wineries. Cool climate grapes like Riesling thrive here, and the Bordeaux style blends from this region can show brisk, bright, Old World appeal, with lots of spicy and floral components.

The appellation, which was formed in 1982, is characterized by its proximity to Lake Michigan, creating an inland maritime climate which helps moderate temperature extremes. Lake effect snow can actually help protect vines against potentially devastating spring frosts. The climate allows for ice wine production in some vintages. Vineyards are planted on hills of

Brengman Bros. sources their grapes from three vineyards. In their Timberlee Vineyard (30 acres) Crain Hill Vineyard (25 acres) and Cedar Lake Vineyard (5 acres) they grow a wide range of grape varieties, from Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc to Muscat Ottonel, Petit Verdot, even some Rotgipfler. (I had to revisit my textbooks for that last one.) The winery is 100% solar powered, and equipped to move barrels outside for cold stabilization in the Michigan winter.

While I thought a few of the wines really stood out, they were all interesting, and only one missed the mark (for me). I can struggle with hot, heavy wines (especially in summer), so I found these wines a delightful, refreshing experience. They’re certainly worth checking out if you’re in the area or buying direct.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Brengman Brothers Chenin Blanc Timberlee Vineyard -­ USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $30
Medium lemon color. Nose shows mint and verbena over chalk, talc, saline, lemons and tart apricots. On the palate this is racy, rushing and lip-smacking with a tart, live-wire feel that works really well with this green apple, lemon and apricot fruit. Crusty sea salt, honeysuckle and minerals abound. Some may find this too lean/tart, but I think it’s exciting and quite delicious. Begs for oysters. (88 points)

2018 Brengman Brothers Dagüdscht - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: 25
Very pale copper color. Boisterous aromas of lemon, lychee, peach nectar, with orange blossom, dandelions, ginger and floral perfume. Light-bodied, dry and brisk, with a slightly creamy texture and precise acidity and balance. Chunks of pineapple, green apple, apricot and white peach, drizzled with lemon, topped in mint, white pepper, smashed seashells and honey. Dry and brisk but deep and complex. This is a fascinating and delicious take on a Gemischter Satz blend, and really delicious. A blend of Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Muscat, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Chenin Blanc and Rotgipfler from Timberlee and Crain Hill Vineyards. (90 points)

2019 Brengman Brothers Block 65 Blend Crain Hill Vineyards - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $25
Medium yellow color. So floral on the nose with white peaches, lemons, honey, orange blossom, nettle and lemon verbena. Crisp and bright on the palate, brisk but balanced with a light, steely, feel, yet shows solid complexity. Tart lemon, orange peel, apricots, with notes of white flowers, crushed limestone, white tea. Cool, crunchy, interesting stuff. Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurztraminer. (88 points)

2018 Brengman Brothers Chardonnay Barrel Aged Crain Hill Vineyards - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $45
Deep yellow color. Nose of ripe apples, lemon curd, orange peel, with a cool mix of yellow flowers, chalk, oyster brine tones, some candle wax. Medium-bodied, crisp and bright with slightly waxy texture but a light and juicy appeal. Green apples and crunchy apricot, a bit thin on the midpalate but it also shows notes of toasted almond, hay, honeycomb. Stays bright and shellfish-friendly throughout. Aged 12 months in French oak. (87 points)

2019 Brengman Brothers Chardonnay Concrete Crain Hill Vineyards - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. Bursting aromas of apricot, white peach, guava, along with white flowers, white pepper, crushed shells and smashed sweet tart candies. Vibrant and nervy on the palate with a mineral and mountain stream aesthetic, along with lemon, white peach and guava. Racy but juicy with chalk dust, stony minerals. A Chardonnay for Sauv Blanc lovers, but this offers a lot of dynamic and flavorful elements. (88 points)

2019 Brengman Brothers Pinot Noir Rosé Block 7 Crain Hill Vineyard - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $25
Bright pink color. Zesty aromas of red apple peel, watermelon rind, spiced tea, mint and rhubarb. Fleshy texture with zesty acidity meets red apple peel, white cherry fruit, along with elements of mint, dandelion. Delightful, crisp and fun, this shows some fun, floral and spicy complexity. (87 points)

2017 Brengman Brothers Right Bank Cedar Lake Vineyard - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $60
Bright ruby color. What a spicy nose with green herbs, tobacco and white pepper on top of sour cherry, red apple and wild raspberry. On the palate, this shows bright acid, a crisp and crunchy frame with light tannins and a spicy appeal. Wild raspberry and red currant mixes with bell pepper, tobacco, mint and earth. Crunchy, vibrant style. Cabernet Franc with 20% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Petit Verdot. (87 points)

2017 Brengman Brothers Left Bank - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $65
Medium purple color. Aromas of tart black cherries and red and black currants, along with spiced black tea, anise, wild herbs and beef broth tones. Medium-bodied with a tart and zippy appeal, with tart currants, wild raspberry, red plums. Elements of earth, beef broth, anise, cocoa, leather. Already complex and integrated, this seems like one to pop now, but also shows significant complexity and balance. Interesting Cab Sauv-based blend with Merlot, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. (88 points)

2016 Brengman Brothers Riesling Beerenauslese Crain Hill Vineyards - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $35
Light gold color. Impressive, complex aromas of baked apples and honey with lively, fresh tones of candied lemon, white flowers and chalk dust. On the palate, the richness and sweetness is woven in so well bright acidity. Fruit-wise, we have plump yellow apples meeting lime zest, with complex notes of chalk, minerals, nuanced graham cracker, honey glaze and toasted almond. This is vibrant, balanced and exciting American noble rot Riesling worth checking out! Gaining depth with age, I think this will continue to improve for years to come. (90 points)

2016 Brengman Brothers Gewürztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles Crain Hill Vineyards - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $30
Deep gold color. Rich and honeyed on the nose with glazed pear, baked apple, candied nuts, cinnamon, graham cracker and shaved ginger. On the palate, this is sweet and plum but balanced with crisp acidity, round but precise. Baked yellow apples and orange marmalade mix with cinnamon crumb cake, honeycomb and glazed pecans, but there’s also this underlying seashell, mineral and spiced tea aesthetic. Nuanced and delightful, should continue to age well. (89 points)

2017 Brengman Brothers Riesling Ice Wine - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $80
Deep yellow color. Aromas of gorgeous honey, apricot marmalade, with lychee, graham cracker, lamp oil – a really cool mix. The texture is waxy and plump but the acidity is really vibrant, balanced well with unctuous sweetness. Sweet, honeyed, orange and apricot marmalade fruit – juicy, ripe and plush. But there’s also notes of chalk, mineral, clover and white tea, with some floral perfume and oyster shell tones. Finishes with lovely freshness and sweetness – the balance and depth are really something. I’d love to see how this ages over the next 10 years or so. (91 points)

<85 points

2019 Brengman Brothers Sauvignon Blanc Timberlee Vineyard - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $25
Pale lemon color. The nose shows lots of floral perfume, sudsy, soapy notes and lime. High acidity on the palate, light and brisk with green apple peel, lime, and lots of floral perfume. A bit austere and heavily perfumed.

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

 Happy Saturday, folks. I’m back this week with a mix of wines from around the world, a lot of which are great options for summertime.

One of my favorite German producers, Peter Lauer, makes an appearance with a serious value of a Riesling. Domaine Wachau comes out swinging with a fun and inexpensive Gruner that is definitely worth checking out. And a smattering of different Rioja offers up a lot of quality and value that would be great with summer grill-outs.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Federspiel - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
SRP: $15
Medium yellow color. Nose of crushed shells and sea salt on top of lime and green melon, topped in lemon verbena. Pretty, spicy and fresh on the palate, with limes, lemon and ruby red grapefruit. Focused acidity, racy and bright, but the texture shows plumpness and depth. Elements of chalky minerals, saline, with sliced celery and cool mint notes. Really delicious and showing tremendous value. (90 points)

2018 Peter Lauer Ayler Riesling Faß 4 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Aromas of lively lime, apricot, white peach, with tennis balls, honey, stony minerals. Plump texture on the palate is met with racy, vibrant acidity, and a complex host of stony, chalky, mineral elements. Limes, peaches, sliced green apples, topped in honey, white tea, clover and candle wax notes. Such precision, the sweetness is balanced wonderfully, this feinherb has a lot of depth and punches way above its weight. (92 points)

2019 White Cliff Sauvignon Blanc Winemaker's Selection - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $16
Pale lemon color. A strong burst of lemon, grapefruit, green apple on the nose, with mint, and sliced cucumbers and jalapeno. Crisp and bright on the palate, with crunchy green apples and limes, topped in mint, white pepper, and oyster shell notes. Classic, bright, spicy Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. (86 points)

2019 White Cliff Pinot Noir Winemaker's Selection - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $20
Medium ruby color. Aromas of bright raspberries, red cherries and pomegranate, with menthol, spiced tea, mint and white pepper. Crisp and vibrant on the palate with dusty-light tannins and fresh acidity. Tangy cranberries and sour cherries mix with mulling spices, subtle earth, white pepper and rose petals. Brisk but juicy, crushable but a lot of complexity, especially for a wine at this price point. (88 points)

N.V. Graham Porto 20-Year-Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $65
Warm, inviting nose of roasted pecans, caramel, yellow raisins, apple cider, ginger, lemon peel, almond cake. Plush texture on the palate, medium acidity keeps it fresh on the palate against the richness and sweetness, but it’s balanced very well. Yellow raisins and glazed pear fruit mixes with delicious notes of candied nuts, honey, ginger snap, and there’s this underlying salty aspect that I love. Balanced, lovely Tawny. (92 points)

2019 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Rosado - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $13
Pale watermelon color. Bright and fresh on the nose with chalk, talc, celery seed and honeysuckle, over red apple peels and white cherries. Plush texture but zesty acidity on the palate, a creamy texture supports watermelon rind, red apple. Notes of lime zest, cucumber, celery seed, with some chalk and mineral tones. Lots of character and verve, great value. Tempranillo and Garnacha. (88 points)

2016 Bodegas Palacio Rioja Glorioso Crianza ­- Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $N/A
Bright purple color. Nose shows juicy raspberries and red plums, with smoky earth, sweet red flowers and mint. Velvety tannins, fresh acidity, a deeply fruity but lively wine with black cherry and ripe plum fruit. Notes of earth, dried rose petals, cocoa and vanilla. Smooth, fresh, fun, accessible but sporting some solid complexity for a Crianza. (87 points)

2015 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Fresh nose of cherries and red currants, mixed with spicy herbs, tobacco, red pepper, paprika, with smoky earth. Super fresh and crisp on the palate with dusty tannins, very accessible feel with a tangy vibe. Notes of pine needle, chewing tobacco, rhubarb, light roast coffee and earth accent the tangy red cherry and spicy cranberry fruit. Fun now, but will drink well over the next few years. Good, bargain-priced stuff that would be great with grilled veg and roast chicken. (87 points)

2012 Bodegas LAN Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
SRP: $18
Medium purple color. Aromas of red and black cherries, currants and plums, with violets, charcoal, fallen leaves, tobacco and vanilla. Medium-bodied with silky tannins and medium acidity, vibrant and refined but structured, still. Red and black cherries, currants, mulled fruits mixed with tobacco, leather, leaves, cocoa and vanilla. Refined and pretty, this seems to be entering a good drinking phase, but no rush. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.