The clear, oceanic white wines of California's Cormorant Cellars

Much of the U.S. has been hit with some bitterly cold weather in recent weeks. And Winter will have more for us on the way. Many folks take a break from wine for a while around this time of year, or pull the cork on a warm red wine. But once of my favorite things about the dead of winter, is cooking up a vibrant salad, maybe a lemon-butter fish dish, and a crisp, mineral-driven white wine. I like Winter and spend a lot of time outdoors in the cold, but this helps brighten things up during the shorter months as we look forward to Spring.

One California producer that rocks the white wine category is Cormorant Cellars. Based in Sonoma’s Healdsburg, this producer is relatively new, having kicked off in 2018. Founder Charlie Gilmore, however, has been into winemaking for two decades. With this project, he sources organic grapes from Sonoma, Monterey, and the Santa Cruz Mountains, and makes wines in a unfined, unfiltered, but crystal-clear style. They have an old-school, unassuming appeal, but the depth and flavor are packed in there well. 

Sauvignon Blanc vines in the Montorana Vineyard. Credit: Allison Handbury

When I first tasted their Sauvignon Blanc, it hit differently. Vibrant, natural but focused, complex, delicious – and this coming from someone who doesn’t generally turn to California Sauv Blanc that often. To follow that up, their Chardonnay is bright and crystalline, and they also have a new Grenache Blanc-Marsanne blend that brings out the best of both grapes. 

Charlie grew up spending time on the Monterey coast, where he fell spent time with his dad watching and photographing cormorants – long-necked, fish-eating, colony-nesting birds of the coast. (Can you tell I’m a birdwatcher, too?). I grew up on the opposite coast, and my mother, who taught me to surf, also drew my attention to these oceanic birds. (Did you know they can dive for up to two minutes?) Perhaps it’s a coincidence that the wines in this post have such an oceanic essence and would go great with fish. Perhaps. But if you’re feeling a bit stale about California white wines, Cormorant is seriously worth checking out. 

Oh, and they also produce a new red bend of Merlot, Cab, and Petit Verdot, which I didn’t taste here. 

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted. 

2021 Cormorant Cellars Chardonnay Zabala Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Arroyo Seco
SRP: $27
Medium yellow color. The aromas pop with lemon and quince, green lemon, along with plenty of white and yellow flowers, and a pleasantly natty vibe, some saline and oyster shells – lovely. The palate sports a zesty and bracing appeal with salty, rocky shoreline appeal. The green apple, kiwi, and orange peel flavors are accented with a crazy mix of dried honey, almond skin, chalk dust, sea salt. It’s intense in a lot of ways, but I think it’s incredibly well done. (92 points)

Credit: Allison Handbury

2021 Cormorant Cellars Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $24
Pale lemon color. The nose is a bright and aromatic mix of lemon peels, orange zest, grapefruit, along with slate, crunchy sea salt, white flowers, oyster shell, and hints of almond. The palate is racy and taut with an energetic appeal but some nice textural depth. Crunchy green apples, lemons, orange peel, the fruit is infused with saline, ocean spray, honeysuckle, some mint. Such a focused wine with a mineral kick on the finish. Racy, vibrant, complex, and this should age well, too. A beautiful Dry Creek Sauv Blanc. (92 points)

2021 Cormorant Cellars Preston Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $27
Light yellow color. Peachy keen on the nose with a great mix of green melon, peach nectar, papaya, lime zest, along with yellow and white flowers, potpourri, some pineapple candies and honey. The palate sports a rich texture but a classic Grenache Blanc salty-zesty appeal, with flavors of peaches, papaya, kiwi, and oranges. I love the intricacies and detail within the floral and spice tones, and lots of chalk and minerals. Rich but vibrant, pure and racy, this is a wonderful blend of these two varieties (Grenache Blanc with 36% Marsanne). (91 points) 

A cormorant with a fish lunch off the Jersey Shore. 

Merry Edwards continues to excel with new releases

I’ve been visiting, tasting, and writing about Merry Edwards and their wines for many years, and I love revisiting (and being revitalized by) them.

A legend of early Sonoma winemaking, Merry Edwards helped blaze a path for Sonoma Pinot Noir decades ago. Over the years, they’ve never lost their stride, keeping the classics going while experimenting with new blends and vineyards.

Since taking over winemaking four years ago upon Merry’s retirement, winemaker Heidi Von Der Mehden and her team have kept the ship running smoothly since then. I really enjoyed some of the 2021 Pinot Noirs last year, and also had a great time visiting the winery again in the Spring.

So, I was excited to taste another lineup of new releases, including a few more 2021s, another great Olivet Lane Chardonnay, and the new vintage of the iconic Sauvignon Blanc. Across-the-board, the wines are great – which are the at the top of this lineup just depends on your stylistic preferences. And while I wouldn’t describe these wines as inexpensive, the quality you get for your dollar here is very impressive. Also, if you haven’t tried aging some of Merry Edwards’ wines, it is worth it. I’ve had a 10-year-old Sauvignon before, and it was stellar. And years in the cellar coaxes out all sorts of savory nuances and elegant flourishes in the Pinot Noirs.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Merry Edwards Chardonnay Olivet Lane Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $68
Medium yellow color. Aromatically, this sings clearly with bright tones of quince, lemon, and crunchy apricot, and I also get an infusion of saline, chalk dust, white tea, some almond skin – delightful. The palate is racy and focused, balanced with a creamy texture, and bright with fruit (apricot, papaya, drizzled with lime). The fruit is backed up with complex notes of almond, hay, honey, some chalk dusty, with a salty mineral kick that lingers long on the finish. A delightful example of a classic Chardonnay vineyard – worth stashing a few in the cellar for sure, as this will improve wonderfully. Aged nine months on the lees in 47% new French oak. (94 points)

2022 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $50
Light golden color. The nose is peachy keen with cantaloupe, lime, kiwi, and papaya, backed up with spicy white pepper, sliced jalapeno, with some almond skin, honey, and candle wax – a lot to dig into. The palate is plush but taut with a spritely appeal and flavors of papaya, yellow apples, kiwi, lemon slices. There’s a brisk infusion of minerals, chalk dust, and mountain stream, with some white pepper and dandelion and deeper tones of honey, white tea, and hay. Complex, vibrant, racy, this is a perennial winner, and another great vintage. Aged five months on the lees in 18% new French oak. (94 points)

2021 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $60
Bright ruby color. The aromas are lively and fresh with strawberries and red currants, along with saucier notes of cranberry relish, and notes of spiced rhubarb pie, white pepper, rose petals. The palate sings with crisp acidity and the tannins show smooth edges, supporting the tangy, juicy fruit (strawberries, wild raspberries, red cherries). There’s a lot of nuance and cool elements and textures, with herbal tea, clay, rhubarb, pepper, a variety of green herbs and anise. Delightful balance and overall vibe, a great introduction to Merry Edwards’ Pinot and a solid value. Aged nine months in 47% new French oak. (93 points)

2021 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Meredith Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $90
Light purple color. A deep but inviting aromatic display of black cherries, strawberry jam, red plums, with rhubarb pie, clove, nuanced cola, warm clay, violet petals. The palate shows a lush texture with suave tannins and fresh acidity, giving the wine a deep but racy feel with flavors of black cherries, plum sauce, and tangy strawberries. The non-fruit complexities abound (rhubarb, spiced tea, violets and roses, white pepper, coffee grounds). Expressive already, bright and elegant right out of the gate, but this also has the stuffing for the cellar. Aged nine months in 55% new French oak. (94 points)

2021 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Richaven - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $80 

Deep ruby color. Beautiful aromas of tangy red and black currants, raspberry jam, fresh strawberries, with an interesting mix of white pepper, eucalyptus, mint, some clove and leather – air brings all sorts of cool nuances. Racy acidity frames this wine well, with structured but smooth tannins, such poise and balance in this wine. Tangy red plums, juicy black cherries, jammy raspberries, with all sorts of floral potpourri, mint, eucalyptus, some menthol, roasted chestnut. Love the complexity of flavors and the balance and focus. Polished already but another one I’d like to taste again in five years. A newer addition to the lineup, this vineyard near the Meredith Estate was planted in 2015. Wow, does it show promise. Aged nine months in 50% new French oak. (94 points)

Kicking off the New Year with new California releases

Happy New Year! It’s January 7 – but, still. I hope everyone had a safe and joyous holiday season, and your 2024 is off to a great start. If you’re not doing a dry January, or if you just want to keep up with new wines while taking some time off this month, I have a few wines this week to kick off 2024 on the right foot.

I’m focusing on some new releases from California today, and on wines that deliver quality along with a lot of value. Early January can be a time to tighten up the belts and pay down those travel or holiday bills. So, the wines this week are very reasonably priced, which makes exploring a new-to-you producer a lot easier.

Juggernaut is a California project that immediately grabs your eyes with their intricate animal artwork on the labels. But these are no “critter wine” – there’s serious juice in here. For $20, their Pinot and Cab deliver about as much complexity and depth as humanly possible.

Barra of Mendocino has been such a reliable producer for me, annually putting out classic varietal wines that speak truly of their place. I’ve spent a lot of time in Mendocino over the years, and it’s rugged coast, mountains, and deep forests will always call to me. Sipping one of Barra’s wines is a great way to transport myself back there. The three wines featured here offer a good window into this producer’s style and reliability.

I also have a tradition of opening a bottle of rosé on the first proper snowstorm of the winter. Living in the Mid-Atlantic region, that day has not come yet. We just got hit with inches of cold rain instead. I’m hoping snow is on the way in a few weeks, and when it finally arrives, I think this rosé from Napa’s Hoopes Vineyard is an excellent choice.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Hoopes Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé - USA, California, Napa Valley

SRP: $38
Ripe watermelon color. The aromas pop with tangy strawberries, watermelon, raspberries, with saline, basil, yellow flowers, hay – really vibrant and inviting. The palate is racy and taut with a crunchy mouthfeel but plenty of textural depth and juicy fruit (watermelon, honeydew, strawberries). I get all sorts of cool notes: chalk dust, floral perfume, limestone, basil, white pepper. Lovely freshness and minerality, which lingers on the finish. Lovely Napa Rose here. 80% Cab, with some Malbec, Syrah, Petit Verdot, and Merlot. (91 points)

2021 Juggernaut Wine Company Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $20
Bright ruby color. So fresh and crunchy on the nose with raspberries, red apples, strawberries, along with rhubarb, rose petals, clay soil, and some herbal tea tones. The palate is tangy and zippy with nice depth and dusty tannins, buttressed by fresh acidity. The flavors of tangy strawberries and raspberries mix well with nuances of earth, dried roses and violets, white pepper, and hints of cola and rhubarb pie. Lots of fun, fresh, quite complex, and balanced. (90 points)

2021 Juggernaut Wine Company Hillside Cabernet - USA, California
SRP: $20
Light purple color. The nose exudes smoky earth, tar, and grilled steak along with notes of plum sauce, blackberry jam, mocha, and some tar and dried violets. The palate shows ripe tannins and medium acidity with flavors of saucy cherries and plums, blackberry jam, plum cake. The fruit is mixed with tones of spiced black tea, mesquite, tar, and mocha. Spicy, juicy, lots of fun. (89 points)

2022 The Federalist Wines Pinot Noir - USA, California, Central Coast
SRP: $21
Vibrant ruby color. The nose shows saucy, jammy fruit (black cherries, raspberry, wild blueberries) along with rhubarb, mocha, some toffee, violets. The palate shows smooth tannins and medium acidity, setting the stage for the flavors of plum sauce and black cherry and raspberry jams. Notes of sage, earth, tobacco, and mint add complexity, with some sweet oak on the finish. This is a fun, fresh, crowd-pleasing, value-driven Pinot. (87 points)

2021 Barra of Mendocino Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $28
Ripe purple color. The aromas show a deep, saucy, warm appeal, with black cherries and currant jam, along with smoky earth, charcoal, dried sage and thyme, and notes of tobacco and clove. The palate shows a ripe and saucy appeal, with suave but structured tannins, and pleasantly refreshing acidity that keeps it together. Plums, red and black currants, roasted figs, the fruit is tangy, deep, and delicious, accented by coffee grounds, dark chocolate shavings, chewing tobacco, rocky earth, and a vein of graphite and minerals running through it all. Super fun, and really well done. (90 points)

2020 Barra of Mendocino Zinfandel Reserve -

USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
SRP: $26
Vibrant purple color. Ripe and jammy aromas of black cherries, wild blueberries, raspberries, mixed with spicy green herbs, tobacco leaf, black tea, spiced coffee, hints of dark chocolate. The palate is full but plush with smooth tannins, fresh acidity, and a host of complex, tangy fruits (cherries, raspberries, currants). Notes of spiced black tea, violets and roses, with tobacco and oregano vibes. Super fun and fan-friendly, but the balance, vibrancy, and complexity are impressive. (91 points)

2020 Barra of Mendocino Petite Sirah Reserve - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
SRP: $28
Deep purple color. The aromas have this dark, compact feel, but air coaxes out a lot of nuance – roasted figs and plum sauce fruit blends well with roasted red pepper, barbecue sauce, black pepper, leather, and anise. The palate kicks off with fresh acidity that carries through the entire experience, and the tannins provide a nice amount of grip. Currant paste, roasted figs, and tangy plums, the fruit is mixed expertly with tones of pepper, smoky earth, tar, coffee grounds, and clove. Dark and spicy, but expressive and fresh. A perfect wine for a cold winter night and braised meat. (91 points)