Wine Reviews: Italy

This week, I’m focusing on some white and red wines from Italy.

Over the past few weeks, I’ve received a few wines from Veneto, Sicily and Piedmont. Sicilian whites really hit the spot for me pretty frequently, with their bright, tropical aesthetic. While some of the Veneto reds pair well with wintertime and rich, hearty dishes.

Most of these wines cost around $20, so there are some serious bargains in this report.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Whites

2018 Pieropan Soave Classico - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico

SRP: $20

Light yellow color. Aromas of peaches and papayas, topped in floral perfume, chalk, wild herbs and white tea. Bright acidity, but deep texture, lovely balance. Vibrant lemon, lime and peach fruit mixed with white tea, sliced cucumber, and lots of floral perfume. Another solid vintage of this reliably good and worthwhile wine. Garganega and 15% Trebbiano from estate hillside vineyards. (89 points)

2018 Azienda Agricola F. Tornatore Sicilia Etna Bianco - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $20
Deep yellow color. Bursting nose of peaches, lemon and apricot, along with tons of white and yellow flowers, some sea salt, white pepper. Fleshy and plump with lemon curd and pineapple fruit. It has a lively, salty, limestoney feel, too, which is really attractive. Lots of yellow flowers, some wild herbs. Balanced really well, this is such a seafood and salad-friendly wine that brings solid complexity for the price. This is made from 100% Carricante grown on the northern slopes of Mt. Etna (1,800 to 2,300 feet). 12.5% alcohol. (89 points)

2018 Tasca D'Almerita Tenuta Whitaker Grillo Mozia - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia IGT
SRP: $22
Medium yellow color. The nose bursts with pineapple, green apples, key lime pie, with sea salt, honeycomb and lots of white and yellow flowers. Pleasant texture, medium-bodied, yet bright acidity. Lots of tropical goodness (cantaloupe, pineapple, limes) along with honeysuckle, daisies and sea salt. Juicy and tropical but fresh, too. Not “simple,” but simply pleasant; such a seafood bistro kinda wine. (88 points)

2018 Tasca D'Almerita Tenuta Capofaro Didyme - Italy, Sicily, Salina IGT
SRP: $22
Medium yellow. The aromas pop with kiwi, papaya, lychee, with white flowers, wild herbs, notes of pickling spices. Medium-bodied, has a pleasantly plump texture but the bright acidity makes it vibrant. Juicy and tropical with pineapple, lychee and papaya fruit. Complex notes of wildflowers and spices (honeysuckle, dandelion, white pepper). There’s a salty, chalky, mineral combo on the finish that is very nice. Impressive stuff. All Malvasia di Lipari, no maloactic fermentation, all stainless steel. (89 points)

Reds

2018 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Valpolicella Nanfré - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella
SRP: $15
Light ruby color. Peppery, spicy nose with clove, bay leaf and rose hips, accenting the tangy red currant and wild cherry fruit. Fresh and accessible on the palate with light tannins on a medium-bodied frame. Cranberry sauce, red currant compote, the fruit meets with rose petals, clove, some bouillon cubes, chewing tobacco. This is really pleasant, well-integrated, easy-drinking but well-done. Great bistro, pizza wine, that sports a lot of value. 70% Corvina, 30% Rondinella, aged four to six months in stainless steel, 12.5% alcohol. (88 points)

2017 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Ripasso della Valpolicella Superiore Monti Garbi - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Ripasso della Valpolicella Superiore
SRP: $22
Deep ruby color. Nose has a deep core of black currants and roasted digs, with some warm clay, smoky earth, clove notes. Suave and rich on the palate, moderate tannins, medium acidity helps keep it lively. Tart black currants and roasted fig fruit mixes well with leathery, smoky, earthy, coffee tones. Warm and inviting stuff, but this could use a year or two to express itself more. 70% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, and a combined 10% Croatina and Oseleta, aged 12 months in 30% new French oak. (89 points)

2015 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Amarone della Valpolicella Selezione Antonio Castagnedi - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella

SRP: $47

The nose shows a solid core of blackberry, currant compote, roasted digs, along with campfire smoke, dark chocolate shavings, anise cookies. Full-bodied but suave on the palate, with structured tannins, moderating acidity that keeps it away from being too heavy. The currant and fig compote mixes with lots of anise, coffee, scorched earth, violet petals, clove, sweet toffee and vanilla. This should age nicely over the next decade. 70% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 5% Croatina, 5% Oseleta, aged two years in French oak. (90 points)

2015 Allegrini Palazzo della Torre Veronese IGT - Italy, Veneto, Veronese IGT
SRP: $20
Bright purple color. The nose shows smoky earth, anise, cocoa, on top of roasted figs and plum sauce. Medium+ bodied, smooth and velvety tannins, and refreshing acidity. Flavors of tangy currants, black cherries, refreshing fruit but plenty of it. Laced with violets, cigar box, anise, black pepper and cocoa. Another solid vintage of this perennial bargain. A blend of Corvina Veronese, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Sangiovese, aged 15 months in old oak. (89 points)

2017 Renato Ratti Langhe Nebbiolo Ochetti - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe
SRP: $25
Deep ruby color. Nose shows deep cherries and plums with a pleasantly smoky, earthy element, along with mushroom and rose petals. Nice grip on the palate, fresh acid, the balance is on point, and lots of black cherry and tart red currant fruit. Lots of rose petals, herbal tea, along with beefy, saucy, mushroom notes. Fun fruit, spicy and floral complexities. This opens up a lot with air, and could use some time. What a whole lotta Nebbiolo goodness for 25 bucks. From vineyards in Monteu Roero, aged 10 months in old Slavonian oak. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Blind Tasting Some New California Chardonnays

It’s been a while since I’ve focused exclusively on California Chardonnay, so I’m excited to delve back in. 

The breadth of different styles is what always keeps me coming back to Cali Chards. No matter how California Chardonnay is generalized as a category, there are so many wines that do their own thing, buck the trend.

I don’t curate the wines I receive, so while my personal favorites aren’t featured here, I think this is a solid group. 

Ramey comes in with four different single-vineyard wines, each of which stood out. It’s interesting, as all four of these wines are treated the same in the cellar: native yeast fermentation, full maloactic fermentation in barrel, with battonage, aged about 20 months in 20% new French oak. They’re all 14.5% alcohol, too. They all rock a similar tune while showing nuanced harmonies of their vineyard site. Smith-Madrone comes through with a killer Spring Mountain Chard, again. And some less expensive wines like The Paring show that there’s still value to be found in Cali Chard. 

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind. 

2016 Talbott Chardonnay Sleepy Hollow Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $42
Aromas of ripe pears and yellow apples, topped in cinnamon, nougat, salted peanuts. Ripe and juicy on the palate but lively acidity. Creamy apples and pears, lemon curd, juicy fruit but well balanced, too. Nougaty, honeyed tea, cream, but also some floral perfume and chalk dust. Fun stuff, but showing some complexity, too. Aged 10 months in 40% new French oak, 14.1% alcohol. (89 points) 

2017 The Paring Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $25
The nose shows green apples, white peach, limes, with chalky notes, peanut shell, white flowers. Medium-bodied, plush texture, crisp acidity, it’s framed well with nuanced, tangy fruit (green and yellow apples, apricot). Notes of sea salt, chalk dust, minerals, they blend well with these honey, ginger and chestnut elements. Delicious, vibrant style but significant complexity. Aged 1/3 in used French oak, 1/3 new French oak, 1/3 stainless steel,1/3 malolactic fermentation. (90 points)

2016 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay - California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $40
Nuanced aromas of honey, warm tea, almond, with sea salt, crushed chalk, yellow apples and pears. Full but integrated so well, with deep texture, but this racy acidity that keeps it bright and lofty. Glazed apples, candied orange peel, lemon, the fruit mixes well with these salty, chalky, rocky, mineral elements. Lovely stuff that should age wonderfully. From their dry-farmed vineyard, barrel-fermented, aged nine months in 80% new French oak. 14.4% alcohol. (93 points)

2018 Clos Pegase Chardonnay Mitsuko's Vineyard - California, Napa Valley, Carneros
SRP: $30
Nose of apricot and orange marmalade, whipped honey, graham cracker, yellow flowers. Lush texture, full and smooth, but moderate acidity keeps it lively. Hedonistic fruit (glazed pear, orange marmalade, pineapple), with honey, almond cake, vanilla. But there’s also brighter elements of honeysuckle, river rocks and green tea. Lovely depth, very delicious. Aged nine months in 30% new French oak, 14.6% alcohol. (90 points) 

2018 Pfendler Vineyards Chardonnay -
SRP: $45
Bold nose of ginger, spiced tea, honey, candle wax, nutmeg, oCalifornia, Sonoma Coast, Petaluma Gapn top of lemon cake and yellow apple. Juicy and ripe on the palate with plump apricot, bruised yellow apple, and lots of ginger, cinnamon crumb cake. Rich style, but there’s a nice streak of acid and some lime and mineral tones. Aged 14 months in 50% new French oak. 14.2% alcohol. (88 points) 

2018 Cline Cellars Chardonnay Estate - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $13
On the nose, I get a nice mix of toasted nuts, honey, with candied lemon, orange peel. Medium/full-bodied, smooth texture, lively acidity. A bright lemon/orange peel element, with apricot, marmalade and peach. The fruit mixes with toasted nuts, honeycomb. There’s also this floral, perfumed, minty quality, with vanilla and ginger snap notes. I was surprised to see the price point here, because it offers a lot for the money. 60% maloactic fermentation, aged four months in French oak. (87 points)

2016 Ramey Chardonnay Rochioli Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $65
Creamy, inviting nose of buttered pears, yellow apples, with lots of honey, ginger, peanut shell, nougat, some floral perfume. Full and suave with plump texture but vibrant, lip-smacking acidity, and the balance is superb. Apples, pears, orange marmalade, with lots of complex elements of biscuits, peanut brittle. There are also these really lively mountain stream and mineral elements. Delicious, fascinating stuff, a standout in the tasting. A stunner that I’d love to age for five years. Aged 20 months in 21% new French oak. (94 points) 

2016 Ramey Chardonnay Woolsey Road Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $65
The nose shows a bright burst of lime, lemon curd, apricot, along with sea spray, and subtle nutty, waxy, honeyed elements. Crisp acid frames the wine nicely against the plush texture, deep but stays so lively. Green apples, lemon curd, apricot, lush but vibrant, with sea salt, crushed chalk and oyster shell notes that are really delicious. The nutty, almond, ginger snap elements blend in smoothly. I’d love to see this in three to five years. Old Wente clone Chardonnay, aged 19 months in 20% new French oak. (93 points) 

2016 Ramey Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $65
An aromatic burst of yellow apples and pears, with honey, candle wax, candied ginger, white flowers, lots going on. Plump texture, creamy and lush, but the acidity keeps this bright, too. Lemon curd, key lime pie and yellow pear fruit, topped in sea salt, minerals, a crisp streak of those elements, but also buttered biscuits with honey and almond, too. Gorgeous stuff, tons of depth, but also so precise. Aged 20 months in 22% new French oak. (94 points) 

2016 Ramey Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $65
The nose shows lots of apricot, yellow apples and lime, with honeycomb, ginger snap cookies, coffee cake, but also these breezy, airy, floral elements as well. Lush texture on the palate but precise acidity, intriguing balance. Lemon and lime meringue, apricot and green apple (gorgeous fruit). The notes of peanut brittle and ginger snap mix well with the sea salt, chalk and yellow flower tones. Complex, harmonious, this could really age well, too. Aged 20 months in 18% new French oak. (93 points)






This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Holiday Bubbles Round-Up: Champagne, Prosecco & Cava

The holiday season is in full swing — the lights, the commercials and jingles, shopping, all that stuff. And, right on cue, I’ve been receiving a lot of bubbles for review.

Of course, good bubbles (especially Champagne) are good year-round, but popping the cork on a bottle of fizzy wine during the holidays, with family and friends, it really never gets old.

To help with the holiday sparkling wine shopping, I have a nice mix of sparkling wines this week. I recently tasted through some delightful Champagne, to some surprisingly good Proseccos, and some value-driven Cavas. These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Palmer & Co Champagne Brut Réserve - France, Champagne
SRP: $60
Rich yellow color. Bold nose of yellow pears, lemon curd, honey, ginger, but also a nice mix of crushed chalk and shells. Bright acidity meets nice creamy texture on the palate, a broad fruit assortment (apple, apricot, lemon). Nice amount of complexity in the form of sea spray, chalk dust, minerals. Biscuit and honey notes woven in well. Gains depth and complexity with air. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and about 15% Pinot Meunier, aged four years on the lees, 8 g/l dosage. (90 points)

N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Rosé Brut Première Cuvée - France, Champagne
SRP: $60
Medium copper color. Chalky, biscuit, sea salty nose with lemon, red apple and apricot fruit, a slight, pleasant musky note. Nervy and brisk on the palate but broad texture, with crunchy red apple, juicy raspberry and strawberry, and nuanced notes of spiced tea, chalk. Brisk but toasty, zesty but plenty of fruit – seems like a holiday crowd-pleaser of a rose Champagne for sure. Pinot Noir with some Chardonnay, the blend includes reserve wine dating back to 1985, aged 3 years sur lie. 6 g/l dosage, disgorged July 2018. (91 points)

N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature - France, Champagne

SRP: $100
Deep gold color. Super bright on the nose, with a chalky, dusty, mineral, saline infusion, along with sea spray, white flowers, lemon curd and tart apricot. On the palate, this is nervy and precise with a lot of focus. It is has a knife’s edge briskness throughout, yet enough depth and creamy texture for balance, and nuanced bready doughy notes. Apricot, lemon curd and lime, topped in minerals, crushed shells, quinine and white flower tones. This is a brand new cuvee from L-P (their first in 30 years), and they’ve managed to pull off a really good Brut Nature, here. Chardonnay sourced from the Côte des Blancs (Avize, Cramant, Oiry, Chouilly) and Montagne de Reims (Tours-sur-Marne, Villers-Marmery, Rilly La Montagne), aged about six years before disgorgement. (92 points)

N.V. Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene Prosecco Val D'Oca - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco
SRP: $13
Pal lemon color. Aromas of white peaches, topped in wildflowers, white tea, nettle and sweet tarts. Crisp on the palate, juicy but tart, with white peaches, lemon and kiwi fruit. Notes of wildflowers and herbs. Food-friendly, simple in a good way, a crisper, dryer style that works well. (87 points)

2018 Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene Val D'Oca Punto Rosa - Italy, Veneto, Marca Trevigiana IGT
SRP: $13
Pale copper color. Aromas of red apple, cranberry, with some nettle and musky tones. Crisp and light on the palate with bright acidity on a light frame. Punchy red apples, watermelon, strawberries, topped in some chalk and flowers. Pleasant, crowd-pleasing stuff, made from Pinot Nero and Pinot Grigio. (87 points)

2018 Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene Val D'Oca Prosecco Millesiamato Extra Dry - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore D.O.C.G.
SRP: $18
Lemon colored. Aromas of quince, lemon and tangerine, along with white tea, crushed sweet tarts, and an interesting musky, spice element. Fleshy texture on the palate but tart acidity. Lime, quince and apricot fruit mixes well with white tea, honey and chalk. There’s some complex floral and spice tones that are quite attractive. (88 points)

2018 Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene Val D'Oca Brut Rive di San Pietro di Barbozza - Italy, Veneto, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG
SRP: $33

Pale lemon color. Steely and bright on the nose, with a burst of lemon/lime, kiwi, and an exciting streak of minerals, chalk and dried flowers and herbs. Lovely creamy depth on the palate, but bright acidity keeps it lively and crisp, delightful balance. Ginger, honey, crushed chalk, white flowers, all of this on top of kiwi, lemon and green apple. This is a really impressive Prosecco that surprised me. (90 points)

N.V. Vilarnau Cava Brut Reserva - Spain, Cava
SRP: $15
Medium yellow color. Aromas pop with lemon, lime, honey, some toasted nuts and baguette. Creamy texture on the palate, refreshing acidity, along with lemon crème, yellow apples. Notes of almond, sea salt, freshly baked biscuits. Fun stuff, this delivers a lot for a low price. 50% Macabeo, 35% Parallada, 15% Xarel-lo, 10 g/l residual sugar. (87 points)

N.V. Vilarnau Cava Rosé Delicat Brut Reserva - Spain, Cava
SRP: $16
Deep copper color. Nose of bright strawberries, cranberry, red apple, along with rose petals, some bread dough and peanut notes. On the palate, fresh acid pervades, but there’s good breadth of texture, and a nice mix of juicy strawberry fruit with crunchy red apples. Elements of sea salt, toasted nuts, baguette, and a spice floral tea note add complexity. This has a lot to show for the price. 85% Garnacha, 15% Pinot Noir, 8 g/l residual sugar. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: Italy, France, Portugal & Spain

To all the American readers, hopefully you’ve been enjoying Thanksgiving with family, friends, delicious food and wines over the holiday weekend!

After focusing a lot on California wines recently, I’ve tasted through a bunch of samples from Italy, Portugal and Spain, and found some good recommendations to share.

Fattoria La Valentina does a good job with inexpensive wines from the Abruzzi region, while two wines from Alto Adige bring that crisp, zesty, Alpine-style goodness.

From France, Ferraton doles out two solid offerings from the Rhone Valley.

Port house Symington Family Estates has ventured further south into Alentejo’s Portalegre region to source grapes for a new project called Quinta da Fonte Souto. I love this region, so I was stoked to taste the inaugural 2017 vintage of their red and white. They’re both good, but the white is really something else.

And from Spain, we have two value-driven Riojas from Bodegas Beronia, and a beefy Garnacha that would pair well with cold, snowy nights.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Italy

2018 Fattoria La Valentina Pecorino - Italy, Abruzzi, Colline Pescaresi IGT
SRP: $17
Light yellow color. The nose is bright and fresh, with guava, lime and melon, topped in yellow flowers, nettle and sea salt. Clean and pretty on the palate, with a steely, mountain stream, chalky aesthetic. Lemons, guava and apricot mix well with perfume, chalk, minerals and white tea. Racy but deep, and showing a lot of complexity for this price point. (89 points)

2016 Fattoria La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
SRP: $15
Deep ruby color. Nose shows red cherries and currants, lots of smoky, beefy, leathery tones, some violets. Medium-bodied, smooth tannins, moderate acidity. Flavors of red and black cherries and spiced cranberry sauce play off of smoky earth and leather tones. Fun stuff, showing quite a bit of depth for the price, this is a seriously good pizza bistro style of wine. Mostly stainless still and some old Slavonian oak. (87 points)

2015 Fattoria La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva Spelt - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
SRP: $22
Medium purple color. Deep core of red currants and black cherries on the nose, with spicy pepper, bay leaf, leather, pretty violets and clove. Velvety but some grip on the palate, moderating acidity, seems young but opens up well with air. Crunchy cherries and currants with a complex herbal, spicy, floral mix (violets, clay, clove, rocky earth). Shows significant complexity for the price, this could improve with a few years as well. (90 points)

2018 Colterenzio Schreckbichl Sauvignon Prail - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $22

Medium yellow color. Bright and punchy nose with lemon, green apple, kiwi, along with honeysuckle, sliced cucumber. Lovely depth of texture on the palate, with crisp, nervy acidity. Lemon, lime, crunchy green apples, the fruit is accented with elements of honeysuckle, hay, mountain stream, chalky mineral tones. The herbal elements are subtle and blended in well. Lots of depth and flavor for the price. From calcareous soils, fermented in a mix of stainless steel and old oak, with six months of lees aging. (88 points)

2017 Franz Haas Pinot Nero - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $35
Light ruby color. Aromas of tangy cherries and raspberries, along with black pepper, rose petals, some clove and herbal tea notes. On the palate, this is zippy and tangy with light tannins and juicy fruit (raspberries, strawberries. Peppery, herbal, floral tones underneath. Fun, vibrant, food-friendly Pinot Nero, with an enjoyably bright and spicy personality. Fermented in stainless steel and aged one year in barrel. (87 points)

France

2017 Ferraton Père & Fils Crozes-Hermitage La Matinière - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage
SRP: $26
Medium purple color. Ripe and bright on the nose, black cherries, plums, with smoky, leather, peppery, anise notes. Medium-bodied, smooth tannins, fresh acid, this wine is open and bright, but shows a solid core of black cherry fruit. Peppery, leather, spice rub elements add complexity. An early-drinking style, but it doesn’t lack for complexity. (88 points)

2017 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Samorëns - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
SRP: $16
Deep ruby color. Smells like cherries, raspberries, with sweet roses, pepper, oregano and cola notes. Medium-bodied with smooth tannins, chewy texture, moderate acidity. Jammy raspberries and cherries mix well with dried rose petals, black pepper, clove, leather, sweet cola. Fun, accessible and food-friendly, but still showing complexity for thee price. Grenache with 10% Syrah, 5% Cinsault. (87 points)

Portugal

2017 Quinta da Fonte Souto Portalegre Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo, Portalegre

SRP: $25

Rich yellow color. Lovely nose of honeyed apricot, lemon curd, orange marmalade, but also bright, floral and salty. Plump and lush on the palate, but the nervy, crisp acidity is great, balanced very well. Lemon curd, apricot, yellow apples, with flavors of graham cracker, honeyed white tea, but also these salty, mineral elements. I love the depth, but it stays brisk as well. Alentejo whites are underrated (I think), and this is a great example of what I mean. This wine is crazy good for the money. 75% Arinto, 25% Verdelho, barrel-fermented with lees stirring. (91 points)

2017 Quinta da Fonte Souto Portalegre Tinto - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo, Portalegre
SRP: $25
Almost neon purple color. Rich on the nose with black cherries, plums, blueberries, with smoky, leathery tones, coffee and vanilla. Full-bodied with a chewy texture, but moderate acidity. A saucy compote of blueberries and plums, but the fruit has a nice, crunchy edge. Laced with cocoa, lavender, violets, earth and leather. Good stuff, showing good complexity. Alicante Bouschet with Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Alfrocheiro. (88 points)

Spain

2016 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $15
Light purple. Smells of bright cherries and strawberries, with spicy tobacco, rose petals and floral tea. Medium-bodied on the palate, with light, dusty tannins. Fresh and zippy stile with juicy red fruits (strawberries and raspberries), with lots of tobacco and rose petals. Fun, fresh Rioja that delivers quite a bit of balance and depth for a Crianza at this price point. Tempranillo with 8% Garnacha and 1% Mazuelo, aged 12 months in a mix of French and American oak. (87 points)

2014 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $20
Medium purple color. Lovely earthy, spicy and floral notes on the nose, along with leaves, soil, tobacco, red pepper flakes, over top of fresh cherry fruit. Medium/full-bodied with suave tannins and vibrant acidity, with crisp black cherry fruit. Quite complex notes of cigar lounge, leather, pepper, floral and earth, with a smooth, vanilla finish. Lovely freshness and balance. Drink now or hold for a few. Tempranillo with a combined 5% Graciano, Mazuelo. (89 points)

2014 Viñas del Vero Somontano Secastilla - Spain, Aragón, Somontano
SRP: $40
Deep purple color. Big and dark on the nose, with black cherries and blackberries, topped in campfire smoke, cocoa, anise, scorched earth, vanilla. Full-bodied with sweet, smooth tannins and surprisingly moderate acidity that helps keep it going. Black cherries, dark plums, blueberries, juicy dark fruit is matched with smoky charcoal, cocoa, mint, black pepper. Rich, suave and plush, but showing liveliness as well. Drink on the early side. 100% Garnacha, aged 10 months in French oak. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Historic Sanford Wines Still a Benchmark

The first time I heard of California Pinot Noir producer Sanford was while watching a movie in the theater. You may have heard of it: Sideways.

I was living in New York, not yet of legal drinking age, but I had the early stages of the wine bug after a few years of high school in Germany. I distinctly remember having the rare day off work at Kinko’s, so I caught a matinee showing of the film. At this point, I had never visited California, but as I watched Miles and Jack sip wines with Sanford tasting room manager Chris Burrows, I took note — more investigation of this Cali Pinot thing was in order.

John Terlato (left), me, and Michael Benedict (right).

Of course, for decades before Hollywood got involved, Sanford had been a crucial part of the California wine landscape.

It all starts in the late 1960s and early 1970s, when botanist Michael Benedict and his friend Richard Sanford set out to find a cooler climate area where they could ripen (but not over-ripen), wine grapes. After gathering, analyzing and scrutinizing data concerning weather, climate, soils, etc., they decided on an area of the Santa Ynez Valley, a region that would later become the “Sta. Rita Hills” American Viticultural Area. The first Sanford & Benedict Vineyard vines were planted in 1971, and two years later, they planted the first Pinot Noir vines.

Michael Benedict and Richard Sanford split after the 1980 vintage, and Richard sold his interest in the vineyard and founded Sanford Winery. There was a lot of back-and-forth in the following years, as control of the vineyard and the winery shifted hands.

La Riconada Vineyard, which abuts the Sanford & Benedict vineyard, was planted in 1997, and this would also become home to the winery and tasting room. The Terlato family partnered with Sanford Winery in 2002, making investments in the vineyards and winery. They became the majority owner and managing partners. In 2007, they purchased the Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, re-uniting the winery with its original site.

Earlier this year I had the great pleasure of meeting John Terlato and Michael Benedict. We tasted through a variety of new and aged Sanford Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, and discussed the special place these wines have in the history of California viticulture.

The wines are currently made by Trey Fletcher (senior winemaker) and Laura Roach (assistant winemaker). Cellar master Auggie Rodriguez has been working at Sanford for more than 20 years, and his father was hired to plant the Sanford & Benedict Vineyard in the early 1970s.

With all this history, how do the winery’s current releases stand up? Well, I recently tasted some new Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, and found them vibrant, delicious, and highly satisfying. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.


2018 Sanford Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $40
Medium yellow color. So bright on the nose, with lime, kiwi, green and yellow apples, with honey, sea salt, nougat and ginger nuances. Plush, beautiful texture, bright acidity, balanced so well. Flavors of lemon curd, yellow apple and apricot, topped in sea salt, almond skin, hay, white tea. All the elements are woven together really well, and this is so bright, pretty and also age-worthy. There’s a lot to unpack in here over the next few years. (91 points)

2017 Sanford Chardonnay Sanford & Benedict Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $50
Vibrant yellow color. So fresh on the nose, with lemon curd, yellow apples, apricot, and all these sea salt, white flowers and hay elements. Rich texture, plush but so balanced, with focused, crisp acidity. Lovely pear, lemon curd and kiwi fruit, doused in attractive notes of sea salt, wet rocks, crushed chalk, and the notes of vanilla and toffee and blended in so well. Concentration and depth are there, but so fresh and tangy, too. I’d love to see what four to five years can do to this wine. (93 points)


2017 Sanford Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $45
Bold ruby color. Juicy cherries and strawberries on the nose, along with generous floral, white pepper and rhubarb elements. On the palate, this is a medium-bodied wine with smooth tannins, crisp acidity, and a mix of pretty, chilled, vibrant red fruits (strawberries, McIntosh apple, wild raspberries). Complex notes of rhubarb, rose petals, tilled soil, all woven in well, accented with light roast coffee and cola. For the price, this is such a great value. This is ready to drink, but this could also age well for years ahead. The fruit is sourced mostly from Sanford and Benedict Vineyard, 12% from La Rinconada. (91 points)


2016 Sanford Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $72
Deep ruby color. Aromas of bright, generous red cherries, strawberries, and even at this young age it has this airy, lifted quality, with rhubarb, rose potpourri, some herbal tones. On the palate, this is fresh and inviting, built well tannin-wise, with rounded edges, and crisp acidity. Juicy, pretty cherries and raspberry fruit, mixed with violets, clove, pepper, rose petals and bay leaf. Nuanced cola and coffee, the whole package is sewn together so well. Aging potential in here, I’d love to see this in 8-10 years. (93 points)




This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

The Exceptional Blaye Wines of Chateau Mondesir-Gazin

Marc Pasquet surveys the barrel room at Chateau Mondesir-Gazin

I had heard of Chateau Mondesir-Gazin's reputation, but I had not previously tasted any of Marc Pasquet’s wines before. But these wines were easily some of the best wines I tasted on a week-long trip to Bordeaux this summer.

The wines show wonderful balance and vibrancy. They have this long-aging, old school aesthetic, like what I imagine early 1980s Bordeaux wines tasted when they were young. But they’re also really delicious and full of beautiful fruit. The blend each year is almost always the same, about two-thirds Merlot with the rest Malbec.

Attracted to the terroir, Marc Pasquet purchased the estate in 1990. He transitioned the vineyards — planted in clay and limestone soils on slopes overlooking the Gironde River estuary — to organic farming. The close proximity to this large river moderates weather extremes like frost and hail.

Owner/winemaker Marc Pasquet is such a genuine dude. I had a great tasting and lunch with him, sharing stories and hearing about his passion, not just for his wines, but for wines from all over the world. He travels extensively and seems genuinely stoked about what other winemakers are doing, even though his own wines are quite traditional in their approach.

I highly recommend these wines, and a visit if you’re ever in the area.

2015 Château Mondesir-Gazin - France, Bordeaux, Blaye
Inviting and warm on the nose with cherries, blackberries, plums, with tobacco, cedar, violets. Great concentration on the palate but balanced so well, tannins are solid but not harsh, vibrant acidity. Tangy and juicy red and black cherries. Lots of woodsy, floral tones, earthy, violets, an underlying rocky, mineral presence. This has an old school, long-aging feel to it. Beautiful stuff. (92 points)

2012 Château Mondesir-Gazin - France, Bordeaux, Blaye
Suave red and black currants on the nose, deep and concentrated fruit with violets, leather, cocoa and anise. Serious grip on the palate with moderate acidity, black cherries and crunchy red currants. I get lots of menthol, leather, pine forest, black tea notes. And there’s a lot of graphite and mineral elements. This needs a lot of time but is really good stuff. (91 points)

2009 Château Mondesir-Gazin - France, Bordeaux, Blaye
Deep and ripe on the nose, beautiful, concentrated black cherries, with violets, anise, chewing tobacco, minty-earthy tones. Solid grip still but the tannins have fined-down edges, medium acidity keeps it fresh. Tangy black currant and plum fruit mixes with earth, tobacco, violets, clove. Evolving so well, beautiful stuff, plenty of years ahead. One of my favorite wines of the trip. (93 points)

2005 Château Mondesir-Gazin - France, Bordeaux, Blaye
This is in a vibrant and lovely place. Nose shows red plums, red currant, with lots of savory tones (mushroom, mossy rocks, leaves) with leather and anise. But the wine is really alive and fresh – doesn’t smell tired at all. Serious grip still on the tannins with balanced acidity – this wine has a long time ahead. Red currants and cherries mix with complex notes of anise, pepper, leather. Balanced and lively, integrated well, and if stored properly a bottle of this should age well for another ten years. (93 points)

Wine Reviews: New Releases from California

This week, we have another round of new releases from California. In recent weeks, I’ve received a lot of different wines (whites and reds) from all over the state, from good bargains for early drinking, to splurge-worthy wines that should be cellared for a few Presidential elections.

For me, Steele wine from Lake County has long been a reputable producer of value-driven wines of high quality and distinction. The current crop of releases keeps going on that same track.

There are a few wines from different Gallo brands in this tasting, and some wines from the Hess Collection as well. I also tasted four wines from Hestan Vineyards (a first for me). These “Stephanie” label wines are sourced from a 56-acre estate vineyard, and all four of these wines hail from that vineyard’s 2015 vintage. I found these four wines (treated the same way in the cellar), offered a nice look into their vineyard and style, and I think the wines are really pretty and offer a lot of value compared to many other Napa reds.

Lastly, Napa stalwart Shafer contributes three exciting wines. And the Relentless Syrah and Hillside Select Cabernet strut their stuff.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.


Whites

2018 Steele Wines Pinot Blanc Bien Nacido Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $20
Pale lemon color. Bright and juicy nose of kiwi, peaches and pineapple, with lots of floral tones (dandelion, honeysuckle, orange blossom). Nice creaminess on the palate, balanced well with bright acidity. Tangy and fresh but plump with lemon curd, pineapple and peaches. Topped in sea spray, floral perfume, cut flower stems, some hints of love and white pepper, too. Lovely stuff at a great price. Stainless steel-fermented (maloactic fermentation, too) and aged in old French oak. (88 points)

2017 Steele Wines Chardonnay Cuvée - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $24
Light gold color. Nose boasts yellow apples, apricot, guava, a tropical but zesty blend with honey, sea salt and wildflowers. Plush texture on the palate, crisp acidity, and there’s a nice mix of papaya, yellow pears, lime juice. Notes of chalk, sea salt, honey and graham cracker add complexity, and there’s this real sense of vibrancy, harmony and balance that is rare to find in a Chardonnay at this price point. Tons of value, highly recommended. Aged eight months in 20% new French oak. (90 points)

2018 William Hill Winery Chardonnay Winemaker's Series - California, Napa Valley, Coombsville
SRP: $50
Medium yellow color. On the nose, yellow apples, juicy pears, oranges, with cinnamon, salted nuts, hay and honeycomb. Medium+ bodied, creamy yet zesty acidity. Juicy green and yellow apples, lemon curd, the fruit is balanced with chalky, crushed shell vibes, and richer notes of nougat and pie crust. Rich and deep but balanced and vibrant as well. Sourced from Haynes Vineyard old vine Wente clone Chardonnay. (90 points)

2017 San Simeon Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $19
Deep gold color. The nose pops with honeybutter, candied pecans, peanut brittle and ginger, over top bruised apple and orange marmalade. Plump and creamy texture with medium acid, and plenty of juicy pineapple, yellow apple and orange marmalade fruit. Hedonistic elements of toasted pecan, honey and oak round out the finish. Rich, fun and yummy. Barrel-fermented (75% new French and American oak), and this goes through about 70% maloactic fermentation. (86 points)

2016 Maddalena Vineyards Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $15
Intense gold color. On the nose: hunks of pineapple, baked apple, with toasted nuts, nougat, whipped honey and cinnamon sticks. Plump and texturally rich with medium/low acidity. Honeyed, waxy and nutty with baked apple and pears and lemon bars. Notes of almond brittle and peanut as well. For fans of juicy, nutty, oaky Chardonnay. This sees 30% new American and French oak, and 35% maloactic fermentation, sourced from three vineyards in Arroyo Seco and the Santa Lucia Highlands. (85 points)

2017 The Hess Collection Chardonnay Panthera - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Rich yellow color. Aromas are rich and inviting, with pineapple, lemon curd, sea salt, ginger, cinnamon. Very pretty texture, plump, full, medium/low acidity but the wine stays lively. Lemon curd, yellow apple and pineapple, topped in ginger, cinnamon coffee cake, and honey tones, but also brighter elements of white flowers and crushed chalky. Bold but nuanced. Aged 18 months in 35% new French oak. (89 points)

Reds

2016 Talbott Pinot Noir Sleepy Hollow Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $45
Medium ruby color. I like these aromas of spicy cranberries, tangy strawberries, with bright notes of white pepper, sweet roses and rhubarb. Medium+ bodied on the palate with soft tannins, and super fresh, zippy acidity. Juicy cherries, spiced cranberry sauce, sweet red plums, the fruit is mixed with rhubarb, clove, white pepper and roses. I like the vibrancy, and these mushroom, earth tones underneath. A lot of personality and freshness. (89 points)

2016 Maddalena Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $17
Vibrant purple color. Smells of sweet plums, blueberry jam, with violets, vanilla and mocha. Full and smooth, chewy and dark with velvety tannins and medium/low acidity. Blackberries and blueberry jam, bold and fruity but not too over-the-top. Notes of anise, dark chocolate and mocha. Juicy and fruit-forward but it holds itself together well for a wine at this price point. (85 points)

2016 San Simeon Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $26
Medium purple color. Nose shows tangy black currants, wild blueberries, with a nice kick of smoky earth, cracked black pepper and green herbs. Fresh acidity frames the wine quite nicely, accessible tannins, the balance is attractive. Tart black currants and black cherries, with notes of incense sticks, spice rub, cocoa and vanilla. Fun, early-drinking style, but it could actually improve for two or three years. Aged 36 months in a mix of new and old French and American. (87 points)

2016 Mount Peak Winery Zinfandel Rattlesnake - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $48
Bright purple color. Smells of sweet black cherries, plum cake, with sweet cocoa, anise, vanilla cookies. Rich and huge on the palate (16%), with chewy tannins and just enough acidity to carry itself. Jammy, juicy, with plums, raspberries, black cherries, roasted figs, with sweet pipe tobacco, coffee, vanilla, hazelnut crème. Lush and bold, but well-done and undeniably delicious. From mostly Monte Rosso Vineyard fruit. (89 points)

2017 Steele Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $28
Medium purple color. Juicy black cherries and smoky cherries on the nose, with charcoal, anise and black pepper notes. Medium/full-bodied, nice grip but the tannins have rounded edges, and the acidity is lively. Dusty, juicy ad pleasantly spicy, as black cherries blend well with nose of rose petals, charcoal, scorched earth and pepper. Smooth coffee and vanilla woven in well. Lots of depth, freshness, and this could even improve for a few years. Impressive Lake County value, per usual from Steele. Aged 18 months in 30% new French and America oak. (88 points)

2017 Steele Wines Cabernet Franc - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $20
Loving the spicy aromas here (oregano, sage, black pepper, clove) on top of juicy cherries and raspberries. Vibrant acidity frames the wine well, a medium-bodied frame, velvety but structured tannins, nicely balanced. Black cherries and raspberry jam topped in anise, pepper, cocoa. Fresh and delicious with a spicy, earthy, herbal, floral finish. Aged 14 months in 30% new French and American oak. (88 points)

2017 The Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Lion Tamer - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Medium purple color. Lush, inviting nose of sweet plums, red and black currants, and lavender, dark chocolate, coffee and vanilla. Full-bodied, velvety and suave with lively acidity, tangy red and black cherries, juicy but fresh fruit. Nicely integrated aspects of coffee, sweet green herbs, black tea, with nuanced vanilla and cedar. Lots going on, but really accessible now. Cabernet, 11% Petite Sirah, 8% Malbec. Aged in 33% new French and American oak for 20 months. (90 points)

2015 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Lot No. 1 - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $175
Dark purple color. Gorgeous, deep nose of currants, black cherries and plum skin, with eucalyptus, sweet pipe tobacco, scorched earth, vanilla – complex! Full and plush on the palate with smooth tannins, and delightful acidity, so the balance works out quite well. Rich, juicy plums, black cherries, black currants. The fruit melds well with complex graphite, charcoal, loamy and rocky earth, sweet pipe tobacco, mint, with notes of vanilla and cedar rounding things out. Long, lush finish. Lovely stuff that will do well with three to five years in the cellar and hold for quite some time. All Cabernet (a blend from various vineyards in Napa) aged 20 months in 97% new French oak. (93 points)

2017 Shafer TD-9 - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Deep purple color. Delightful nose, deep, rich and vibrant, with black cherries, blackberries, topped with scorched earth, graphite, and coffee. Full but smooth, suave and velvety tannins, but vibrant acidity, which keeps it lively. Pretty plum, currant and cherry fruit, with violets, earth and coffee. Complex, structured, deep, but also lively and downright fun to drink. This is delicious now but also could improve over the next handful of years. 62% Merlot, 22% Malbec, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 20 months in all new French oak. (92 points)

2016 Shafer Relentless - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $95
Deep purple color. So much to unpack on the nose, it’s kind of crazy. Gorgeous boysenberry, blueberry and blackberry fruit, tossed with waves of pepper, anise, clove, leather, charcoal and espresso elements. Obviously full-bodied and burly, this is big stuff but the acidity actually keeps it lip-smacking in spite of its richness. The freshest, sweetness blueberries and blackberries, and the fruit is laced with leather, pepper, spicy herbs, charcoal and rocky earth tones. Complex and rich, yet effortless and pure — a beautiful young Relentless that is built the long haul (a decade at least would do it good). Syrah and 10% Petite Sirah, aged 30 months in all new French oak. (96 points)

2015 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap DistrictSRP: $310
Deep, concentrated purple color. The aromas are dark and rich, and the wine needs time to show the full aromatic display: dark currants, plum cake, fig paste, along with violets, espresso, graphite, smashed rocks, scorched earth and vanilla. Full-bodied, grippy and young, but it shows moderating acidity, and it amounts to a bold, concentrated but smooth and integrate feel. Boysenberry, black currants and black cherries abound (exquisite fruit), and it’s matched with complex notes of charcoal, graphite, rocky soil, also vanilla, sarsaparilla and cedar. Concentrated for the long-term, but also already elegant and expressive. All Cabernet aged 32 months in 100% new French oak barrels. (95 points)

2015 Hestan Vineyards Malbec Stephanie Selection - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Dark, saucy purple. Lush aromas of raspberries and blackberries, topped in sweet cocoa, mint, eucalyptus and violets. Full-bodied, smooth tannins, this is velvety and sports crisp acidity, framing the wine nicely. Blackberries and raspberries, accented with coffee, violets, cedar and vanilla. Plush and juicy but it has a bright, floral aesthetic with subtle earth, iron and minerals. Delicious. Includes a 7% mix of Cab Sauv, Merlot and Petit Verdot, aged 28 months in 40% new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Hestan Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Stephanie - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $50
Dark purple color. A nice tart, dark core of black cherries, roasted figs and sweet pipe tobacco. Powerful but suave, with a chewy texture and medium/low acidity. Lots of dark currants, tart blackberries, laced with graphite, smoky charcoal, and cool mint and eucalyptus notes. Lots of depth, but the balance is impressive. Five years should do this well. Includes a combined 16% Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, aged 28 months in 40% new French oak. (89 points)

2015 Hestan Vineyards Red Wine Stephanie - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $85
Inky purple color. Bold aromas of black cherries and cassis, concentrated but suave, with lots of black pepper, smoky charcoal, cedar and pencil shavings. Serious concentration and grip on the palate with tart black currants and juicy black cherries. Complex notes of spicy pepper, wild herbs, eucalyptus, charcoal, violets and anise. There’s a lot going on here, deep and concentrated, but also fresh, this could easily improve for 5-8 years. 32% Petit Verdot, 22% Cabernet Franc, 21% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Malbec, aged 28 months in 40% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Hestan Vineyards Merlot Stephanie - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Medium purple color. Smells of juicy red and black cherries, dark plums, lots of violets, rose petals, sweet coffee, pleasantly earthy elements. Medium/full-bodied with lively acidity, moderate tannins. Smooth plum and currant fruit blend well with potting soil, cigar box, with cedar, smoke and violet elements as well. Nice concentration, but balanced and quite fresh, too. This could do well with a few years in the cellar. Includes 9% Petit Verdot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 28 months in 40% new French oak. (90 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Lots to Love in "DC's Wine Country" - Loudoun County, Virginia

Washington, DC, has become my adopted hometown. When I first moved here from New York about a dozen years ago, I spent one of my first weekend trips hiking around the Potomac River and tasting wines in the area around Leesburg, Virginia. 

The wines I tasted were hit-and-miss, but I fell in love with the area, and have been trying to keep up with the wine scene since. Loudoun is full of beautiful spots, and with more and more quality wines coming out of this region, there is plenty to see and taste.  “DC’s Wine Country” (yes, they’ve trademarked that) dates back to 1981, when Lew Parker planted his first grapes at Willowcroft Farm. Now, there are more than 40 wineries in the county.

During a recent online tasting coordinated by Virginia wine guru Frank Morgan, I tasted through several wines from this Northern Virginia region. While many of the wines and wineries were familiar to me before, this tasting reminded me that I need to get back to Loudoun more often — there’s still so much to explore.  Casanel comes through with a sparkling Chardonnay, and I learned they also make a sparkling Norton that I now must try. Walsh Family makes some really good stuff, and I highly recommend tasting their wines if you get a chance. Their Viognier (notoriously fickle and frequently flabby) was one of the most vibrant Virginia iterations I’ve tasted in a long time. Breaux (another producer I really appreciate) has gotten a lot of praise over the years for their Meritage, Merlot and other reds — and for good reason. Lost Creek and 50 West were both new to me, and offer up some interesting red blends, especially 50 West’s Tannat/Petit Verdot-based blend, which I found fascinating. Lastly, I tasted a Merlot from Rocky & Co., and I found the wine very attractive. This Middleburg-based project seems like one I need to watch.

These wines were all received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2015 Casanel Vineyards Chardonnay White Spark - Casey's Cuvee - USA, Virginia, Middleburg
SRP: $60
Light yellow color. Nose of tart lime, quince, sour lemon, with some perfume and sea spray notes. Zippy and tart on the palate, brisk with light bubbles and flavors of lime and crunchy green apples. Slight nutty and bread notes. Fun, fresh stuff, I’d love this with oysters. Made from all estate-grown Chardonnay, aged 36 months on the lees. (87 points)

2017 Walsh Family Wine Viognier - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $29
Light yellow color. Floral and bright (baby’s breath, spearmint, honeysuckle) over top of peaches, lime, apricot, a very lively and bright aromatic display for Viognier. Plump texture but the acidity frames the wine well, keeps it fresh. Creamy but crisp with yellow apple, juicy peach, limes. Complex notes of hay, honeycomb, chalk dust, white tea. Harmonious and vibrant, this is a seriously well-done Virginia Viognier. 13.5%, aged in old oak, a blend of fruit from Bethany Ridge and October One Vineyards. (89 points) 

2015 Breaux Vineyards Meritage - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $45
Light purple color. Nose shows tart red and black currants, smoky tobacco, charcoal, leather and anise – super complex nose. Medium+ bodied, velvety tannins but nice backbone of acidity. A good mix of red and black fruits (currants, cherries) rich fruit but a tart edge, and some minty, smoky, beefy, peppery notes. Also some toasted coconut and vanilla, but it’s woven in well. Balanced, vibrant, expressive this is a really well-done Virginia Meritage. Aging this 2-3 years would be a great call. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Petit Verdot, 23% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec, aged 18 months in oak. 13.9% alcohol. (89 points)

2016 Lost Creek Genesis - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $40
Deep ruby color. Bright cherries and red plums on the nose with tobacco, mint, roses, cinnamon and spiced tea. Zippy acidity keeps it really fresh, yet dusty tannins provide support, with tart cherries and currants. Notes of spicy pepper and black tea. Minty, spicy, floral and earthy notes. Really vibrant style, and while it’s ready to drink, I’d love to see what this does in three or four years. 67% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc, aged 18 months in French oak, 16% new. (87 points) 

2015 50 West Aldie Heights Cuvee - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $38
Bright purple color. Aromas gush with dark plums and black cherries, along with violets, mint and dark chocolate. Impressive concentration on the palate balances off of zesty acidity on a medium/full-bodied frame. Crushed black cherries, red and black currants, along with violets, clove, dark chocolate. Lots of vibrancy here, really tangy but also has enough depth and concentration to age for at least 3-5 years. 34% Tannat, 34% Petit Verdot, 24% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot, 13.9% alcohol. (88 points) 

2017 Rocky & Co. Wines Merlot Reserve “Deterts” - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Middleburg
SRP: $49
 Medium ruby color. Spicy and lively on the nose, with a kick of rose petals, clove, pepper and sage over top of red and black cherries. Medium-bodied (13.3%), built well but a pleasant roundness to the tannins and lively acidity. Juicy cherry fruit (nuanced, bright and yummy), and I get a complex blend of violets, sage and earth, with cocoa, anise and coven woven in well. Delicious, complex, stuff, it gets really floral with air. I’d love to see this in three to five years. Four barrels made, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Bubbles

Sparkling wine shows no signs of slowing down with sales up 5.6% in 2018, making for 16 consecutive years of category growth.

Americans love their bubbles. Even after more than a dozen years of growth, sparkling wine in U.S. is still on the rise, up about 5% last year. And, with the holidays and the New Year coming up, it’s a good time to be on the lookout for inexpensive bubbles.

I recently received some sparkling wines from around the world, almost all of which come in under $25 — no Champagne here, sorry!

Most of these wines come from Freixenet Mionetto USA, an amalgamation of the two brands known for their Cava and Prosecco, respectively.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Gratien & Meyer Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé - France, Loire Valley, Crémant de Loire
SRP: $18
Deep copper color. Smells of peaches, red apple peel, with chalk, sweet roses and some oregano and mint. Crisp yet juicy and punchy on the palate, with plenty of juicy raspberry, strawberry and red apple fruit. A light, brisk style with salty, floral and chalky notes. Vibrant, tasty, seafood-friendly stuff. (87 points)

N.V. Freixenet Prosecco Extra Dry - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco
SRP: $22
Light lemon color. Nose shows green apples, lemons, faint white flowers. Crisp and light on the palate with plump texture and medium acidity. Lemons, apricots, tangy green apples, this is a light, crisp, straightforward Prosecco with foamy, spritzy, floral appeal. Lemons and apricots topped in white and yellow flowers. Simple but balanced well, and the drier take makes this a really seafood- and salad-friendly Prosecco. (85 points)

N.V. Mionetto Prosecco Organic Extra Dry - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco
SRP: $16
Medium yellow color. Aromas of lemons, limes, crushed sweet tarts, nettle, and a nice mix of white and yellow flowers. Crisp and bright on the palate, not too sweet, quite balanced and crunchy. Green apples, limes and kiwi fuse with chalky, salty notes, and lots of honeysuckle, baby’s breath and floral perfume. A crisp, chalky finish. Good amount going on here in this value-driven Prosecco. (86 points)

N.V. Segura Viudas Cava Brut - Spain, Cava
SRP: $12
Pale yellow color. Aromas show lemon curd and apricot with baby’s breath, sea salt and chalk zdust. Crisp and juicy on the palate with brisk acidity and a slight creaminess to the texture as well. Fresh, vibrant, with yellow apples and lemon curd. Notes of sea salt, cut flower stems and perfume add some complexity. Serious value here. (87 points)

N.V. Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut - USA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $22
Light gold color. Nose boast juicy peaches, apricot, lemon crème, with chalky, floral, honeyed notes. Crisp acidity and fine bubbles blend well with a round, creamy texture and flavors of sweet white peach, yellow apple and apricot. Notes of honey, chalk, floral perfume add complexity. A reliably solid California sparkling wine that is widely available and a real value. (88 points)

N.V. J Vineyards & Winery Brut Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Light salmon color. Smells of strawberries, red apples, apricot, light chalky, crushed shell notes, with some spice and white floral tones. Round texture on the palate, slight but balanced sugar, moderate acidity. A dusty, chalky, talc feel with fresh roses, green tea leaves and clove notes to accent the red apple and strawberry fruit. Juicy and plump, but vibrant as well. Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier aged 30 months on the lees. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.