Wine reviews: International grab bag

I’m back this week with a handful of diverse and interesting wines from wildly different regions.

From the U.S., a value-driven Oregon Pinot offers a lot to like, and I revisit a Texas producer that plays by their own rules.

Sangiovese is such an absurdly versatile grape, and I have such respect for those winemakers in different Italian regions who have spent centuries dialing in the nuances. Tuscany has so many big-name (and expensive) regions, so I’m always looking for unique, terroir-driven expressions, and have enjoyed digging into the Montecucco region. Located between Morellino di Scansano and Brunello di Montalcino, on the slopes of Monte Amiata, this appellation is only a quarter of a century old. But these ancient sites produce wines of a vibrant, mineral-driven, bright-fruited focus, and show a nuanced interpretation of this grape. And the value is really impressive.

From Rioja Alta, the wines of Ramon Bilbao always deliver for me. Founded in 1924, their entry-level wine is a good introduction, but the Reserva and Gran Reserve featured this week are beautiful expressions of their region. Considering the complexity and age-worthy qualities in these two, the price tags are exciting.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted, except for the Montecucco wines, which were tasted single-blind.

2021 Trivento Malbec Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Light purple color. The nose sports sweet, saucy plums and raspberry jam, with some light roast coffee, light pepper, along with some savory smoky and mesquite tones. The palate shows soft tannins and medium acidity, a fresh and fun appeal, with flavors of raspberry and plum jams. Saucy and fun with notes of cola and coffee. A solid value Malbec, and one the rare widely-available, grocery store wines that delivers a lot of personality and realness. (87 points)

2020 C.L. Butaud Cease & Desist - USA, Texas, Texas High Plains
SRP: $48
Deep ruby color. A yummy nose of jammy raspberries and sweet black cherries, backed up by complex notes of violets, clay, black tea, spicy herbs – it’s all so warm and inviting. The palate shows surprisingly crisp acidity, which is fantastic, backed up but suave tannins and juicy, tangy raspberries and black cherries, saucy plums. I love the spicy complexity, with these paprika, pepper, sage, dusty earth, charcoal. Fun but deep and complex, this blend of Cinsault, Counoise, Tempranillo, and Grenache. Definitely worth checking out if you’d like to explore some tasty Texas red blends. (90 points)

2021 Firesteed Pinot Noir - USA, Oregon
SRP: $17
Bright ruby color. Aromas jump with juicy cherries and strawberry jams, along with rhubarb pie, spiced tea, white pepper, and some herbal nuances. Medium-bodied, light tannins, moderate acidity, this has a friendly, balanced, appeal, and shows farmer’s market fruit in terms of crunchy red apples and tangy strawberries. Nuances of rhubarb, white pepper, earth, tobacco – it’s rare to find a Pinot of this personality and realness at this price point. Aged in French oak (15% new) and stainless steel. (88 points)

2017 Campogiovanni (San Felice) Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
SRP: $62
Light purple color. Such a complex and vibrant aromatic display, with tart currants, tangy plums, and raspberries, along with dusty earth, dried flowers, smoky earth, tobacco, and anise. The palate shows nice grip on the tannins but crisp acidity and a fresh appeal. Flavors of mulled cherries, cranberry relish, along with tar, pepper, earth, and plenty of savory mushroom, soy, dried flowers and minerals. Gorgeous complexity, with plenty of floral-earthy complexity on the finish. Refined already, but I’d love to see this in three to five years. (93+ points)

2018 Le Pianore Montecucco Rosso Tiniatus - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $34
Deep ruby color. The aromas are vibrant and inviting with bright red cherries and raspberries, laced with savory herbs and spices, some earthy tones and minty, rocky vibes. The palate shows accessible, dusty tannins and lively acidity, with a fresh and juicy appeal. Tart red and black cherries and currants mix well with plenty of spices and savory notes (black pepper, dried roses, beef broth). Has an easy-drinking approach but plenty of complexity and nuance. Sangiovese with some Merlot, aged six months in a mix of stainless steel and French oak. (89 points)

2018 Peteglia Montecucco Sangiovese - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $25

Ruby colored with a nose of tangy red fruits (raspberries and tart cherries), along with mesquite, warm clay, fresh mint, and some tar and tobacco tones – such a savory and fun wine to sniff. Dusty tannins, medium-plus acidity, with tangy cherry and red plum fruit. The mouthfeel is really balanced, and this wine is so expressive in its herbal and floral complexity, with notes of roses, incense, mulling spices. Pretty, integrated, this shows a lot of value and personality. Needs a big hearty meal and a crowd of loved ones. Great now but will keep the integration going in the cellar. 100% Sangiovese. (91 points)

2016 Tenuta L'Impostino Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva “Viandante” - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $35
Vibrant ruby colored. Deep cherries and warm currant compote on the nose, complex and inviting with lovely notes of roasted red pepper, tobacco, sage, dried roses, violets, and potting soil. The palate shows solid but integrated tannic structure that balances wonderfully with mouthwatering acidity. Tangy currants and cherry jam mixed with mulling spices, chewing tobacco, clay and earth tones, and there’s this streak of dusty minerality that pervades the wine. Floral and spice rub complexities round out the finish – there’s a lot going on here. It’s in a pretty place now but has lots more to show. Aged two years in French oak barriques. (92 points)

2018 Poggio Stenti Montecucco Rosso Riserva “Tribulo” - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $29
A bright ruby color. The nose sports chilled cherries and raspberries, spicy tobacco, with nuanced earth, fallen leaves, and clay, rose petals. The palate shows a juicy, fresh mix of raspberries and cherries on a frame of dusty tannins and crisp acidity. The fruit plays well off these savory tones of tar, leather, smoked meats, and these dried flowers and black pepper. Structured but nuanced, focused and clear, this will age well but is already friendly and accessible. Sangiovese and Cabernet – a lot of value in here, too. (90+ points)

2016 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
SRP: $27
Light purple color. The nose exudes a deep sense of plum sauce, blackberries, and tart pomegranate, along with spiced berry tea, dried violets, sage and brushy, rocky, sun-roasted hillside vibes. Beautiful balance on the palate, with dusty tannins and crisp acidity, with a chewy but fresh feel, deep cherries, and strawberries. There are a lot of delicious nuances packed in there with the fruit as well: warm clay, garden soil, spicy herbs, with minty, dark chocolate, and smoky vibes. This is pretty stuff with a long life ahead. From 40-year-old vines aged 20 months in American oak. (91 points)

2014 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
SRP: $37
Vibrant ruby color. A complex aromatic display of juicy raspberries, red cherries, with rhubarb, spiced tea, smoky earth and tar, charcoal and graphite vibes, and a nice floral potpourri thing going on, too. The palate has solid grip with fine-grained tannins, supporting ripe black cherries and raspberry jam. There’s a lovely blend of mulling spices, tobacco, spicy mint, warm clay, loamy earth, hints of oak. Stays fresh throughout, with all sorts of pretty nuances to coax out, and lingering minerality and floral tones on the finish. Ready to go now, but I’d bury a few and forget about them for five or six. From 60+ year-old vines, aged 30 months in American oak. (92+ points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.