Lodi Wines Continue to Impress

I’ve been a fan of wines from Lodi for a long time, and it’s been interesting to follow them for these past ten years or so.

Lodi wines are all about diversity, as the wines in this report show. With old vines, diverse soils, and tons of different grape varieties, winemakers have a lot to work with. There are small lot, old vine, bright and vibrant styles, and large production, jammy, fun styles, and everything in between, really. In addition to all the classic California staples, I enjoy wines made from Spanish, Italian, German and Austrian grapes, too.

And Lodi’s wine trade group has been working hard to promote these wines in the wine community for many years. I think a lot of it has paid off. With an engaged social media presence, a well-done blog, and fascinating projects like the Lodi Native Zinfandels that I first wrote about in 2014, I’m still excited about this region.

I recently had a chance to catch up with Elaine Chukan Brown as she and some other Lodi wine folks were touring the country. I had a great time catching some of her passion for the wines of Lodi and the people who make them. I also received some Lodi samples recently, which I included in this report. The wines were all tasted sighted.

Whites

2018 Acquiesce Ingenue - California, Central Valley, Lodi, Mokelumne River
SRP: $32
So bright and floral on the nose. The palate has a pleasant creaminess, deep texture, but vibrant acidity. Creamy peach, kiwi and melon fruit mix with hay and floral spice. A blend of Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Bourboulenc and Picpoul Blanc, fermented in stainless steel. Owner/winemaker Susan Tipton only produces white blends, in Lodi, nonetheless. She clearly knows what she’s doing. (89 points)

2018 Markus Wine Co. Nativo Mokelumne Glen Vineyards - California, Central Valley, Lodi

SRP: $22
Brisk, alpine aromas of mountain stream, crushed rocks, with sea salt, lime and green melon. Plush texture meets ripping acidity on the palate, which has lovely depth and balance. Lemon, tangerine and green melon mix well with notes of hay, chalk, sea salt. A bright, vibrant, invigorating blend of Kerner, Bacchus and Riesling from Mokelumne Glen Vineyards. (91 points)

Reds

2017 Bokisch Vineyards Graciano Las Cerezas Vineyard - California, Central Valley, Lodi, Clements Hills
SRP: $32
So airy and fresh on the nose, with bright raspberries, red apple peel, with rhubarb, white pepper, rose petals. Crisp and juicy on the palate, smooth tannins, balanced and fresh. Deep core of fruit (raspberries and cherries), but the wine always stays lively and fresh, and shows notes of rose petals and incense sticks. Bokisch does some awesome things with Spanish varieties in Lodi, and this wine is a great example of that. (91 points)

2018 Alquimista Cellars Zinfandel Jessie's Grove Ancient Vine - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $52

So aromatic, with floral perfume, spiced tea, vibrant cherries, raspberries, some leather. On the palate, this is so crisp and inviting, with rounded-edged tannins, lively acidity, crunchy yet suave fruit (raspberries, red cherries). Pinot-like elegance, with time more dusty earth, mineral and clay notes come out. Includes some Carignan, Flame Tokay and Cinsault. This is really special stuff, and one of the prettiest Zin-based wines I’ve tasted in a long time. (93 points)

2017 Markus Wine Co. Touriga Nacional Toura - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $39
Expressive aromas of juicy black cherries, raspberries, cherries, with violet petals, clove, scorched earth. Vibrant acidity frames the wine well against dusty tannins. This has a plush but zippy aesthetic. Cherries and crunchy red apple mix with notes of floral perfume, clove and coffee woven in so well. So pretty and elegant, even at this young age, but I’d love to see it in five years or so. Equal parts Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. (91 points)

2017 Turley Zinfandel Steacy Ranch - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $30
The aromas are so expressive and vibrant: cherries and strawberries topped in tobacco leaf, spiced tea, rhubarb and mus. Velvety tannins meet moderate acidity on the palate, this has a round but fresh and bright appeal, with smooth red cherry and raspberry fruit. Notes of lavender, clay, clove and tobacco add complexity. I’d love to see what this does in three to five years. Includes some Grenache and Carignan, this is sourced from a vineyard planted in 1907. (91 points)

2018 Turley Zinfandel Dogtown Vineyard - California, Central Valley, Lodi, Clement HillsSRP: N/A
Bright ruby color. Gorgeous nose of raspberries, strawberries and cherries, lovely freshness but a lot of deeper tones too, dusty earth, violets, warm mulling spices. On the palate, the acidity is super fresh, the tannins are fine and frame the wine well, lovely balance. Raspberry, strawberry and red apple fruit, mixing with delightful tones of clove rose petals, sage. So bright, elegant and precise, very easy to drink now but I’d love to see this in five or six years. From a vineyard planted in 1944, own-rooted, head-tread vines, this is a very special Zinfandel. (93 points)

2017 Precedent Carignan Mule Plane River - California, Central Valley, Lodi, Mokelumne River

SRP: $24
Light purple color. Spicy aromatic display of rose petals, mint, dusty earth, over deep cherries and raspberries. The acidity is so crisp, and frames the wine perfectly for dusty, fine tannins. Lots of depth and concentration, but there’s an airy elegance that pervades this wine. Cranberries, raspberries and cool cherries, such bright fruit, blended with complex loam, clay, warm black tea and cinnamon notes. THIs is really wonderful, but it does need lots of air to get going. Laying this down for a few years will yield a treasure. Insane value here. (93 points)

2017 The Federalist Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Bourbon Barrel Aged - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Aromas of sweet plums, chocolate-covered raisins, coconut shavings, anise cookies. On the palate, this is plush and jammy with low acidity and a sweet, juicy style, with plums, black cherries, blackberries. Notes of coconut and mint chocolate chip offer lots of yumminess, and while a lot of these bourbon barrel reds can be way over the top, this one shows some nuance. Fun, fan-friendly stuff. All Cabernet aged six months in bourbon barrels. (85 points)

<85 points

2018 Cosentino Winery Zinfandel “Cigar” Old Vine Zinfandel - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $20
Dark purple color. Smoky aromas with sweet, jammy, plummy fruit and sweet cocoa, crème brulee. Full and saucy on the palate with low acidity, and high-octane, jammy fruit (roasted figs, yogurt-covered raisins, and sweet blueberries). Smoky, charcoal, vanilla and cola flavors on top. This is too sweet and off-balance, but I can see why some folks might like it.

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.