The ocean gives us everything. May we strive to be better stewards than we were last year.
I love it when one of the best waves of a session goes unridden, even in a crowded field of highly talented surfers. It serves as a good reminder that no one bests the ocean -- nobody conquers anything. Rather, we commune with the waves for a period of time, harness the ocean's raw energy, and return to shore rejuvenated, humbled and stoked.
What a truly astounding wave this is, and I am so thankful to mother ocean and the absolute charging locals who shared it with me. About 15 years ago now, I was surfing my home break in New Jersey on a fun four-foot day. I noticed two guys who seemed experienced but not from around here, so I paddled up and asked them where they were from. Portugal, one said. I was shocked. "No way! Where exactly?" They said Peniche. It blew my mind and I expressed how stoked I was to have Portuguese surfers visiting my wave. I officially welcomed them, and told them to have fun. They even said it reminded them of home on a small day. I told them I had always wanted to surf Supertubos. "You must," one said. So I said, "OK, I will," not knowing if I would ever live to see that promise fulfilled.
I was sitting on the beach, preparing myself mentally on a particularly intimidating Supertubos dawn raid -- six foot and barreling heavier than I've seen at that size, eight foot sneaker closeout sets, howling offshore winds, nobody yet out on the peak. A bodyboarder, older than me, with the look and presence of a true OG who I'd seen out a few times, comes up and asks me where I'm from. I say Bom Dia but he asks in English and somehow knows I'm American. "USA East Coast - New Jersey." He gives me a nod and says, "Welcome to our waves," and paddles out. No one had ever just come up to me and been so explicitly welcoming, in all the places I've traveled and shared waves.
Dues must be payed.
I'm so thankful I was able to surf this wave a lot in different conditions and sizes, and get to know it a bit. I am humbled and in awe of this magical stretch of sand.
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