Summer - Fall Transitional Wines <$20

In the mid-Atlantic the humidity is finally fading, so fall is an amazing time to be outdoors. I’m constantly grilling, reading a book on the patio, sneaking away to the beach when the waves kick up and the crowds die down. In my glass, I move away from my standard summer selections (bright pinks and crisp whites like Muscadet and Chablis), and I look to medium-bodied reds, wines that pack freshness and ripe fruit but also offer more savory and spicy aspects. I look for bottles to pair with late-ripening vegetable dishes and my own conception of autumn.

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Tasting Some 2013 California Pinot Noir

This post first appeared in the daily wine blog Terroirist.

I never tire of tasting California Pinot Noir. Since my last tasting report published in May, I’ve tasted a few newly-released Pinots from across the state. From the $15 multi-regional blends to the $60 100% new oak bottlings, it’s always fun and educational to explore what’s happening with Cali Pinot.

In this batch, I especially liked the two Masút Pinots, which were the first wines I’ve tasted from the relatively new Mendocino American Viticultural Area (AVA) of Eagle Peak. If these wines are any indication of what’s coming out of this region, I can’t wait to taste more.

The wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2013 Tolosa Winery Pinot Noir Estate “Clonal Select” - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
SRP: $45
Medium ruby colored. On the nose, I get juicy fruit (cherries, raspberries, red currants), some green herbs, peppery spice and light roast coffee. Medium tannic structure, brightness from the acid, the fruit (black cherries, red currants, some raspberry jam) is juicy but shows pleasant tartness. Slight toast and roasted chestnut, also some tobacco and black pepper. Maintains elegance despite youth and the finish is quite long and ends fresh. I’d like to taste this again in two or three years but showing well now, too. (89 points)

2013 J. Wilkes Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $26
Deep cherry colored. Dusty and smoky nose with rich red and black plums, some toasted nuts and sweet cola. Bold structure on the palate, full-bodied, medium acid. The black cherry and plum fruit is rich and ripe yet showing some tart edges, tossed with cola and toasted nuts. Forward, rich, a bit intense, although complexity comes in the form of charcoal, roses and tobacco leaf. A bold style, but still a lot to like. (87 points)

2013 Magnolia Court Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast
SRP: $15
Light ruby color. Super fruity nose: strawberry jam, cherry pie topping, black cherry soda, hints of pepper and coffee underneath. Medium-bodied, soft tannins, medium-low acid. Easy-drinking approach, light and slightly chewy. The red fruit is both sweet and tart at the same time, like raspberry and strawberry jam mixed with red apple peel wild cherries. Some toasted coffee on the finish. Fun, crowd-pleasing stuff. (85 points)

2013 Liberated Wine Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Monterey County
SRP: $20
Medium ruby colored. Tangy red fruits on the nose (currants, strawberries and cherries), a bright appeal but also some sweet cola, roses and clove. Medium-bodied, light tannins, tangy acid; Red and black cherries, some raspberry jam, tart red currants, a juicy approach with notes of clove, cedar and birch beer. Fun, tasty, juicy, shows a level of balance and freshness that is quite attractive. (86 points)

2014 Fess Parker Pinot Noir Parker Station - California, Central Coast
SRP: $15
Light ruby color. Nose of strawberries, red cherries, red licorice and some coffee, sweet but fresh. Medium bodied with medium-light tannins, a bit of tang to the acid. Bright strawberries and cherries, mixed with roses and cola and cedar, woven together well. Fresh, juicy, red-fruit-driven, not too complex but a good drink-me-now Pinot for sure. A blend of fruit from Monterey, Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo Counties. (85 points)

2013 Masút Pinot Noir Two Barrel Estate Vineyard - California, Mendocino County, Eagle Peak
SRP: $60
Medium-dark ruby color. Nose of deep black cherries, some raspberry and strawberry, too, deeply floral, with violets, also some vanilla cola and cedar. Medium-firm tannins, medium-plus acid, chewy yet pretty fruit (black and red cherries, some strawberry jam). Silky yet full, showing complex flavors of coffee, tobacco, dusty earth, sweet cola, dark chocolate and cedar shavings. Could use a few years, but quite approachable at this point. For 15 months in 100% new French oak, I’m impressed by its balance. (92 points)

2013 Masút Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard - California, Mendocino County, Eagle Peak
SRP: $40
Medium-deep ruby. Lovely, elegant aromatic approach: roses, lavender, lovely red currants and strawberries, some deep and rocky elements, earth and charcoal. Fresh acid on the palate, bright and elegant with dusty tannins and great balance. Tangy yet fleshy red berry fruit, pulls off the rich yet pretty appeal with ease. Complex loam, pipe tobacco and dried roses along with notes of cedar and cherry wood. Long finish. Beautiful, elegant stuff. Beautiful stuff, aged 15 months in 50% new oak. (93 points)

Columbia Valley: Options at All Price Points

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Columbia Valley is a huge area with multiple sub-appellations, home to a diverse array of grape varieties and wine styles.

I recently tasted through a few Columbia Valley whites and reds, and found some really nice bottles. Like any region, there are those larger-production blends that offer some fun flavors but leave the palate and mind wanting more. But I also came across a few higher-end wines that are quite exciting. It’s hard to generalize about an entire region, but I think these wines represent a good cross-section of what’s available from Columbia Valley.

2014 Buried Cane Chardonnay – Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $14

Dark straw color. Peaches and papayas on the nose, some white flowers and honeyed tea, a sweeter, perfumed aspect. Medium-low acid. Chunky pineapple fruit on the palate (papaya, pineapple and mango), with notes of honey, white tea, nougat, sweet white flowers and honeysuckle. Tasty, attractive, fun, not ultimately deep or complex but very good stuff for the price. Aged six months in 20% new French oak, includes 11% Semillon. (85 points)

2014 Nine Hats Cellars Pinot Gris The Benches - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $12

Light gold color. Nose of peaches, white flowers, lime peels. Creamy body, moderate acid, lemon-lime, white peaches, lots of floral kick and laundry freshener. Waxy, a hint of raw almond and nettle. Clean, refreshing, bright yet full of fruit and flowers. (86 points)

2014 Long Shadows Wineries Riesling Poet's Leap - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $20

Pale lemon color. Bright but complex aromatics, like limes, white peach and papaya topped with sea breeze, white flowers and clean laundry. A zesty and brisk wine but such pleasant richness, creaminess and sweetness as well. Peaches, apricot, papaya, drizzled with lime, I like the potpourri, straw, crushed chalk, ocean spray and ginger notes. Complex but stays zesty and downright fun. Delicious now, but perhaps it could do some cool stuff in the cellar. 89 points

2014 Dolan & Weiss Pinot Grigio Julia's Dazzle Rosé Benches Vineyard - Washington, Columbia Valley, Horse Heaven Hills

SRP: $16

White cherry and watermelon colored. Smells of roses and dandelions, white peaches, lime zest. Crisp and clean on the palate but a creamy, waxy feel. Tart white cherries, orange peels, ruby red grapefruit mixed with honeycomb, lesser amounts of pepper, roses, dandelions and chalk. Good balance, tangy stuff, very pleasant and creamy too. The label had me thinking this was a gimmick wine, but it’s really solid juice. (87 points)

2012 Mullan Road Cellars Red Wine Blend - Washington, Columbia Valley 

SRP: $50

Medium purple color. A sweet spice kick (clove, cinnamon?), along with rich but tart fruit (black and red currants, blackberries), backed up by notes of coffee, coconut and cracked pepper. Forward and ripe on the palate with moderate tannins, some tang from the acid. The black cherry, raspberries and blackberries and juicy, ripe, flowing and velvety. Root beer, cola, vanilla and clove add complexity. Juicy, ripe and open, yet so very pretty. Smooth and refined, despite the structure. Hints of baking spices, toasted oak and malt balls. Some interesting complexity to unravel in the cellar, but showing well now. A Dennis Cakebread project, this blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 13% Cabernet Franc shows a whole lot to love. (91 points)

2012 Cadaretta Windthrow - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $50

Vibrant purple color. Bold aromas of the juiciest raspberries and blackberries, some caramel, dried rose petals, vanilla, cedar. Full bodied, a velvety feel to the tannins, moderate acid. The fruit is concentrated and rich, with juicy blackberries and black cherries, add in vanilla, toasted nuts, sweet floral notes, hints of black pepper glaze. I get some dusty-loamy aspects, sweet coffee. Velvety and rich, approachable but it could benefit from two years or more. 56% Syrah, 25% Grenache and 19% Mourvedre, aged 17 months in 1/3 new French oak. (88 points)

2011 Buried Cane Heartwood Red - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $25

Medium purple color. Tight upon opening, needs swirling and time to show the black cherry, raspberry and dark plum fruit, along with hints of white pepper and tobacco. Medium-to-full-bodied with some velvety tannins and moderate-to-low acid. Lots of black cherries, dark plums and blueberries underlined by mocha, violets, some caramel and roasted red pepper notes. Opens to show barbecue sauce and coffee grounds flavors. A bit compact though and could use air or a decant. A wide-ranging Rhone blend of 54% Syrah, 15% Cinsault, 14% Mourvedre, 7% Grenache, 6% Counoise and 4% Viognier. (88 points)

  

2013 Columbia Winery Chardonnay - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $14

Light gold color. Smells like oranges, yellow apples, honeybutter, some floral white tea notes as well. Creamy body, medium weight, medium acid. Rich yellow apples, papaya, drizzled with honeycomb and hazelnut. Some circus peanut candies and caramel apple. Fun stuff, not really complicated, but tasty. (84 points)

N.V. Columbia Winery Red - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $14

Bright ruby color. Aromas of fig cookies, raspberry jam, mocha. Medium-light bodied, low tannin and low acid. Red apple peel and raspberry jam blend with toast, vanilla and caramel flavors. Tastes manufactured, the toasted oak is a bit much, overwhelms the sweet red fruit. (78 points)

2013 Columbia Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley 

SRP: $16

Medium ruby color. Smells of currant jam, roses, sweet vanilla and coffee. On the palate, light tannins, medium acid, tart cranberries, roasted plums and black currants mix with sweeter cherry jam, toasted oak, mocha and sweet vanilla. A fun, fruit-forward wine with easy drinking appeal for the near-term. (79 points)

2013 Columbia Winery Merlot - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $16

Light purple color. Smells like raspberry cheesecake topping, black cherry soda, vanilla and coconut. Light tannins, low acid, a candied, chewy feel to the palate. The black cherry and plum fruit tastes sweet and slightly cooked, mixed in with vanilla, caramel and espresso. Simple, sweet, syrupy, lacks a signature of place. (78 points)

Celebrating the End of Summer with Muscadet and Chablis

Well, Labor Day weekend is in the past and autumn is on the way. But it’s still hot here in the mid-Atlantic and, now that the crowds have subsided, it’s still prime time for the beach.

I drink Muscadet and Chablis all year, but they’re my go-to choices for hot weather. I had some friends over this weekend and popped a bunch of bottles, but these two were the best of the bunch.

2010 Domaine Servin Chablis 1er Cru Les Forêts - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Light gold color. Love the salty, briny, oceanic nose on this. Lemon peel, candied ginger and almond notes, too, really lovely to sniff. Medium-bodied, tangy acid, plenty of life and briskness. Orange and lemon peels with richer yellow pear fruit as well, all of it slathered in crusty sea salt and oyster shells. Love the way these honey and nougat notes are woven in so well. Complex, long, mineral-laden, lots to contemplate but so fresh and easy to drink. Glad I opened this now because it’s singing, but I’d be interested to try this again in 2017 or so. (92 points)

2014 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
I can’t believe it’s taken me until Labor Day weekend to pop the new vintage of Briords, but glad I did. A beautiful wine, per usual, classic nose of seashell, chalk, talc, lemon-limes, oyster, white flowers, hints of white peppery spice underneath. Salty and crunchy with the lime and lemon fruit. Gorgeous acid but balanced by some creaminess. Notes of chalk, clamshells, talc and limestone make this a complex, mineral-laden wine that begs for all sorts of shellfish. Glad I have some more to cellar. Will check back in two or three years because I love how these age. (92 points)

Good Mosel Riesling for <$15

When it comes to Mosel Riesling, I like a diversity of styles. But the terroir explorer in me almost exclusively buys and cellars single vineyard wines so I can compare and contrast the different individual sites and producers. 

But there is a place for inexpensive regional blends from every region. And the 2014 Urban Riesling from St. Urbans-Hof is a solid entry-level Riesling for the price. This reliable producer sources non-estate grapes and blends them into a bright, refreshing Riesling.

If you're just getting into German Riesling and don't know where to start, this is as good a place as any. If you're a Mosel nerd but looking for something inexpensive to have around while the beauties age in the cellar, well, here ya go. 

2014 Urban Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

$14

Light gold color. Pleasant nose of juicy peaches, lychee and honey, some chalky, rocky elements. Moderate sweetness is kept in check by refreshing acid. Juicy white peach, green pear, lychee, some waxy, dried honey and clover elements. Bright, tangy finish with minerals and candied orange peel. Impressive amount of dusty minerality for an entry level wine. Lots of fun. Well worth $14, and a great introduction to Mosel Riesling. 9.5% alcohol. (87 points)

Idaho Wine: Prime Time to Explore This State's Vino

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

People make wine in all 50 states. You’ve probably heard this before and thought: Yeah, but how many states produce wine worth buying and drinking? California, Oregon and Washington State lead the pack, of course, and wines from New York and Virginia have been showing great stuff for many years now.

So, which state is next to prove itself to the broader American palate? Michigan is home to some exciting vino. Missouri has been a key player in the history of American viticulture. And I’m a big fan of wines from some high elevation vineyards in Arizona. New Mexico, Texas, Maryland — the patriotic palate has plenty of options.

Well, what about Idaho?

When I told my wife I’d be tasting through a dozen Idaho wines she asked: “Umm… are they potato wines?”

I’m sure Idaho winemakers have heard similar comments more times than they care to remember. It can’t be easy convincing the average American wine drinker they should consider shelling out money for a wine from a state they know little about and have probably never visited. But if you shelve any preconceived notions and actually taste the wines, you may be surprised.

Idaho wine isn’t new, but it’s growing. In 2002, the state was home to just 11 wineries. By 2014 that number had grown to 51, according to the Idaho Wine Commission. These wineries produce more than 200,000 cases of wine a year, but that amount doesn’t even put Idaho in the top ten states in terms of production. (A bit of perspective: Ohio, the tenth-largest wine producing state, churns out about four times more wine than Idaho, according to Wines Vines Analytics.) So it’s understandable that Idaho wines don’t get much recognition on retail shelves or placement on restaurant lists outside of the immediate area.

Most of the states wineries are located in the Snake River Valley, southwest of Boise. In 2007, the Snake River Valley became the state’s first American Viticultural Area (AVA), an area that includes parts of eastern Washington. Several Idaho wineries in the Willow Creek area (a more hilly and rugged region) applied for their own AVA status in 2013, but that AVA is still pending.

I’d tasted a few Idaho Rieslings before, but this mixed case was my first real introduction to the state’s wines. And, I have to say, they make a good argument that Idaho wines should be taken seriously. I appreciated the freshness in a lot of these wines, and many of them have moderate alcohol levels. Also, the price points are generally quite attractive. If I have an overall concern about this lot, it’s the overreliance on new oak. Much of the underlying fruit seems solid, but too many of the nuances are overpowered by toasted barrel scents and flavors.

Still, if this batch is any sign, there’s a lot to explore in Idaho.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2012 Ste. Chapelle Riesling Special Harvest - Idaho, Snake River Valley

SRP: $12

Rich golden color. Bright nose of limes and white peaches with sweeter notes of honeycomb and sugarcane, and a new plastic toy smell (I know that sounds strange but it’s something I think of in some Rieslings, and this one totally has it). Sweet and rich on the palate, the acidity helps it out a little bit, but we’re dealing with a honeyed wine, covered in white peaches, guava paste and sugar cane. Fun and tasty but not enough verve, lacking in acid and minerality. (84 points)

2012 Bitner Vineyards Riesling Reserve - Idaho, Snake River Valley

SRP: $17

Pale yellow color. Bright and clean on the nose, fresh laundry, limes, green apples, hints of white pepper and chalk. Bright acid, a lean and taut wine (0.5% residual sugar) with crisp green apple, lime peel and nectarine elements. A nice mix of stony minerality and chalk. Not too deep, but it does what it does well. (85 points)

2012 Koenig Vineyards Viognier Williamson Vineyard - Idaho, Snake River Valley

SRP: $15

Pretty light gold color. Bright aromatics, pineapple and kiwi mixes with lime and green melon, some breezy, floral and honeyed components as well. Full-bodied, moderate acid, a creamy, rich body. Flavors of cantaloupe, kiwi and white peaches, the fruit is juicy and tropical. Notes of almond and birch bark, some honeycomb, floral notes last onto the finish. Interesting to taste this Idaho interpretation of Viognier, a richer, chunkier style but still welcome on the table.  (86 points)

2010 Snake River Winery GSM Arena Valley - Idaho, Snake River Valley

SRP: $21

Pale ruby color. Smells of tart red currants, raspberry, matched with pepper, dried roses, some clove and toasted oak. Medium-bodied, medium tannins that are fined down nicely around the edges, some refreshing acid. Flavors of tart red currants mix with blackberry and raspberry jam, the wine is laced with notes of clove, pepper and toasted oak, a bit too much of the latter for my palate. But it finishes tart and crunchy with floral and spice notes. 55% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre. (86 points)

2012 Colter's Creek Koos Koos Kia - Idaho

SRP: $22

Medium ruby color. Nose of currant compote, plum sauce, jammy raspberries, a sweet and spicy element, like honeyed fruit tea and black tea mixed together, some alcohol shows through at 14.2%. Full-bodied, a rich and chewy mouthfeel with moderate tannins, providing a dusty structure, some freshness from the moderate acid. Dusty and earthy, with black pepper sauce, bay leaf, black tea, some complex notes of cedar, coffee and roasted chestnut but it holds the new oak well. A big wine but balanced quite well with a lot of complexity to unravel, could last for four or five years, I’m guessing. A big five Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petite Verdot. Impressive stuff. (88 points)

2012 Clearwater Canyon Merlot - Idaho

SRP: $25

Medium ruby color. Bright and floral on the nose, tangy strawberries and cherries, some spicy tobacco, eucalyptus and cherry wood notes. Medium-bodied, the tannins are dusty and approachable, the acid keeps the wine tangy. Bright red and black cherries, some strawberry jam notes. Fresh and juicy and accessible at 13.7% alcohol, I like the earthy and eucalyptus notes. But vanilla, coffee and cedar drown out the finish. Good fruit underneath, but a bit too strong on the oak. (85 points)

2010 Fujishin Family Cellars Amatino Red Blend - Idaho, Snake River Valley

SRP: $23

Deep ruby color. Jammy black and red berries on the nose, along with violets, rich and sweet earthy notes mixed in with some sweet basil and sage aromas, toasty oak. Full bodied, velvety tannins still providing plenty of structure, moderate acid. Rich black currant, black cherries, the jammy and chewy fruit is supported by savory notes of cracked pepper and beef brisket. Toasted coconut and mocha, lots of it, but the structure and strength of the other flavors pulls the wine together and keeps the oak from dominating. 92% Syrah, 5% Viognier and 3% Petite Sirah.  14.6% alcohol. (88 points)

2012 Cinder Tempranillo - Idaho, Snake River Valley

SRP: $30

A deep ruby color. Smells smoky and toasty, like someone threw chestnuts and cedar planks on a fire pit then doused them in cherries and plums, then topped it off with tobacco and mocha. Medium-bodied, smooth tannins, the acid offers freshness. Black cherries, plums and some red currant fruit, which is matched by notes of toasted almond, roasted coffee, backed up by some spicy tobacco and black pepper. Bold and toasty (21 months in oak) but this is still a smooth and approachable wine that’s good for drinking in the near term. 13.5% alcohol. (86 points)

2012 Sawtooth Tempranillo Classic Fly Series -Idaho, Snake River Valley

SRP: $25

Dark ruby colored. Aromas of roasted coffee, black and red cherries, a deep sense of tobacco and soil. On the palate, the wine shows dusty-velvety tannins on a medium-bodied frame with medium acid. Spicy red raspberries, juicy cherries, some tart blackberries, the fruit is mixed with spiced coffee, cedar shavings and toasted almonds. Feels silky and smooth on the finish, an interesting take on this variety, but perhaps a bit too high on the oak that it jumbles the other aspects. (86 points)

2012 Sawtooth Malbec Trout Trilogy - Idaho, Snake River Valley

SRP: $35

Light purple color. Smells of tart red currants, juicy black and red cherries, topped with some roasted chestnut, violet and potting soil aromas. Full-bodied (14.6% alcohol), silky tannins but plenty of structure, the refreshing acid really keeps this wine alive and bright. Chewy blackberry and plum fruit but tart aspects as well. Earthy with charcoal, graphite and tar accents, definitely showing its oak signature with chestnut, mocha and dark chocolate shavings, but there’s a lovely balance and freshness to this wine, elegance even. Drinking well now but I’d love to revisit this wine in three or four years. Impressed. (90 points)

2012 Huston Vineyards Malbec - Idaho, Snake River Valley

SRP: $29

Deep ruby color. The nose is dark and deep with currants, fig paste, blackberries, anise, charcoal and freshly paved roads. Silky tannins but still sturdy, refreshing acidity, makes for a pleasant and unassuming presence on the palate. Plenty of chewy fruit though, blackberries and black cherries, hints of crunchy skins in there. A complex web of anise, flower pot, sweet cedar, eucalyptus, pine tree and cherry wood. Moderate-long finish with hints of mineral and graphite. Ready to drink but time ahead, a very good effort, surprising in its balance. (88 points)

2011 Hat Ranch Winery Malbec - Idaho, Snake River Valley

SRP: $27

Vibrant ruby color. Nose of tart plums and red currants, rose petals, some smoke, earth, coffee and cedar. Medium-bodied, this wine shows some refreshing acid and fleshy tannins with a smooth but slightly dusty mouthfeel. Juicy black currants and plums abound, the fruit is blended in with dark chocolate shavings, espresso grounds. Very pretty, bright and refreshing wine despite the rich and ever-present oak (24 months in oak). I’d like to try this again in two years.  (87 points)