Lately, it’s been so hot and humid I haven’t thought much about wine. But it’s also the Fourth of July, making it a perfect time to highlight one of my favorite American producers. And – bonus – these offerings from Troon are perfect Summery selections, offering brightness and gulpability while delivering serious complexity and staying power.
If you haven’t heard of Troon, I’ve been a big fan for years. Located in the unique terroir of Southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley, they’re a biodynamic purveyor or distinct grapes and blends. And they’re always pushing the envelope, trying something a bit different, while paying homage and respect to Old World grapes and traditional methods and styles. Like the ancient method of fermenting grapes with native yeasts outdoors in clay vessels – amphorae. Troon’s work with this method has yielded some exciting and dynamic wines.
They fit very well in this lane, and offer curious and adventurous wine drinkers many options. I have yet to taste a Troon wine that didn’t win me over, so I’m pretty confident everyone can find something they love in their lineup.
And if you’re looking to stock up on some wines for hot weather, these three options won’t disappoint. These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.
2023 Troon Vineyard Ascendant Amber - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Medium copper color. So cool and spritely on the nose with an infusion of orange and lemon peels, dried pineapple chunks, and plenty of white flowers, white pepper, and crunchy sea salt. The palate sports a crisp and zesty appeal with lovely textural depth from the amphorae, and a pristine balance. Limes, nectarine, orange peel, and dried pineapple mix well with elements of floral perfume, wild green herbs, and sea breeze. Crisp, deep, complex, mouth-watering, and very interesting! 46% Vermentino, 29% Viognier, and 25% Grenache Blanc, harvested and fermented separately in amphorae with native yeasts and about 30% whole cluster. (92 points)
2024 Troon Vineyard Glou-Glou - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $30
Dark pink color. Such a lovely and spritely nose of watermelon, papaya, quince, along with dandelion, roses, and white pepper. The palate is crisp and inviting with zesty acidity and a medium-bodied frame with a slight spritz. Red apples, papaya, strawberries, the crunchy fruit blends well with tones of rose petals, chalk dust, floral perfume, and subtle pepper and nettle tones. Flinty, lively, crisp, and clean. Made from co-fermented 52% Cinsault and 48% Grenache in a blanc de noirs style. Is it a dark rosé? A light red? Whatever it is, it’s a crushable nouveau-style wine that’s complex and absolutely delicious with a little chill. (90 points)
2023 Troon Vineyard Mourvèdre Amphora - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $65
Rich purple color. The nose shows saucy plums, dark cherries, red and black currants, even some raspberry. With the fruit I get tones of spiced black tea, clove, bay leaf, tilled soil, anise, and some rocky, graphite elements. The palate shows delightfully crisp acidity and dusty tannins frame the wine nicely, making for a wonderfully balanced wine. Black cherries, dark plums, and red/black currant fruit (all tangy and rich) blend with menthol, violets, rose hips, and pepper. Complex, balanced, and a ton of fun. Made from 30% whole-cluster Mourvedre fermented outdoors in amphorae for 18 days with native yeast. A unique and exceptional Mourvedre. (93 points)