Moraga's Ambitious California Wines (from Bel Air, Los Angeles)

Moraga Estate in Bel Air, Los Angeles. 

So, there’s this wine... it’s sourced from a vineyard within Los Angeles city limits and the estate is owned by Rupert Murdoch. 

If you haven’t tasted Moraga, I can’t blame you for being highly skeptical. 

But, after tasting these wines, it’s clear to me that this is no novelty wine, no vanity endeavor.

The small estate (only six acres combined) is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Sauvignon Blanc, is located within the city limits of Los Angeles, in the Santa Monica Mountains of Bel Air. (As in, “Yo homes, to Bel Air!” – Fresh Prince). This is the sole winery that sources estate grapes from within LA, and it is likely one of the most valuable plots of vineyard land in California. (I’m sure a developer would love to have a crack at this hillside, so I think it’s great vines are still there.)  

Tom Jones, former Northrop Grumman CEO, purchased this property in 1959, and slowly converted the small ranch into a winery and estate vineyards. He first planted vines in 1978, and but 1989 was Moraga’s first vintage. Conservative media titan Rupert Murdoch purchased Moraga in 2013. Murdoch had fallen in love with the property and wine, and, as part of the purchase, he agreed to keep the estate contiguous. He also kept the long-time winemaker, Scott Rich. Today, Moraga produces about 10,000 bottles per year (approximately 70% red, 30% white).

The vines are planted on steep slopes of Santa Monica shale. Yes, this area can get lots of heat, but the Pacific Ocean sits just a few miles away, and cooling influences are pulled inland through a canyon that connects the vineyard to the sea.

The white sells for about $115 and the red sells for about $175, so these wines don’t come cheap. But, if you’re a high roller looking for something unique to add to a California collection, these should fit the mold.

I received these wines as trade samples and tasted them sighted.

2015 Moraga Vineyards White Bel-Air - California, South Coast, Los Angeles County

Rich yellow color. Aromas of honeysuckle, lemon pith, apricot jam, almond and sea salt. Viscous texture on the palate but vibrant acidity which plays well with waxy/honeyed elements and rich fruit (bruised pear, apricot jam, also some lemon meringue). Notes of honeyed tea, almond, nougat, vanilla, some white pepper and spice flavors that say “Hi, I’m Sauv Blanc,” but this is a uniquely rich style of this grape. The oak influences (20% sees new French oak, the rest stainless steel) is obvious but not overwhelming. A bold take on the grape but it’s done very well, and the depth of flavors is very impressive. (90 points)

2013 Moraga Vineyards Bel-Air - California, South Coast, Los Angeles County

Medium purple color. Nose shows tart black currants, gushing black cherries, roasted figs, mixed in with charcoal, violets, espresso, vanilla bean, some bell pepper and tobacco. Full-bodied, structured well but rounded edges on the tannins, and medium acidity offers some surprising but needed freshness. Roasted plums, fig paste, black currant, rich, roasted fruit but delicious for sure. Laced with cocoa powder, tobacco, vanilla, coffee grounds, grilled bell pepper, tobacco. Bold but silky with a smooth presence but this could age nicely (5-8 easily). Opens up nicely, so decant if drinking soon. Aged in 100% new French oak and two years in bottle before release. I’m seriously impressed, this is legit Cabernet-based wine from Los Angeles. (91 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: New Releases from California

This week I’m back with another round-up of new releases from all over California.

The Quilt wines are a new brand from Copper Cane, Joe Wager's project, sourced from various Napa appellations. This is a higher-level brand, with some gutsy pricing, but the deliciousness delivers. In keeping with the company style of producing bold, decadent wines, these are massive and highly delicious examples.

J. McClelland is producing some exciting wines from Napa’s Oak Knoll appellation, three of which I tasted for this report. Named for John McClelland, who spent 50+ years making wine in California for labels like Steele Canyon Cellars, these are moderately priced but very high quality wines.

The Malibu-based winery Dolin Estate wowed me with two impressive offerings, especially the Blue Note red blend from a Malibu Coast vineyard. We also have some reliably delicious wines from Napa’s Frank Family, a stunning Cabernet from Grgich Hills, and some Zinfandel from Dry Creek.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2014 J. McClelland Chardonnay - California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll

SRP: $35
Rich yellow color. Aromas of yellow pears, juicy green apples, buttered toast, a host of honey and floral tones. Creamy and plush texture with vibrant acidity makes a balanced but bold Chardonnay. Lime drizzled on apricots and baked pears, followed up with integrated elements of almond, nougat and butter with some mineral dust on the finish. Delicious, long, impressive depth. 30% barrel-fermented, aged in oak for 12 months. (90 points)

2014 Dolin Estate Chardonnay Bien Nacido - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $39
Light yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd, apricot, melted butter, graham cracker. Full-bodied with pleasant creaminess and fresh acidity. Rich but pure and vibrant with lime, apricot, bruised apple, richer elements of toasted nuts, lemon curd and honey mix well with sea salt and chalk dust. Packed with flavor, delicious but so lively. Fermented in 1/3 new French oak, 100% maloactic fermentation, aged 13 months in oak. (90 points)

2015 Quilt Chardonnay - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $35
Light gold color. Nose shows buttercream, lemon cake, key lime pie, yellow flowers, some chalk notes. Decadent, full-throttle style, this is but partially balanced out by quite fresh acidity. Bruised apple and rich yellow pear fruit mixes with roasted peanuts, candied pecans and orange marmalade flavors. 15 months in 70% new French oak, all maloactic fermentation, this is a burly style, but a delicious expression of Napa Chardonnay. (88 points)

2015 Frank Family Vineyards Chardonnay - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $35
Rich yellow color. Aromas of almond paste, whipped honey, buttercream, but also peaches and pears drizzled with lime. On the palate, this is bold but balanced, creamy but moderate acidity. Bruised apple, peach, apricot, rich fruit but stays fresh. Pretty yellow flowers, clover, honeysuckle, lemon curd, notes of peanut brittle and buttercream are mixed together well. A Chardonnay that should please many a palate, fermented and aged in 1/3 new French oak. (89 points)

2016 Pedroncelli Dry Rosé of Zinfandel - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $12
Medium watermelon color. Juicy red apples and watermelon on the nose with some white pepper, basil and green tea leaves. Medium-bodied, moderate acidity, fleshy texture with flavors of cherries and watermelon. Notes of white pepper and basil mix with whipped honey and cream notes. Tasty, crowd-pleasing stuff. (86 points)

2015 Frank Family Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $35
Deep ruby/light purple color. Nose shows spiced cranberry jam, black cherries, rhubarb, rose hips, chewing tobacco. Fleshy texture with velvety tannins and medium acidity. Juicy red plums, Thanksgiving cranberry sauce, rhubarb pie, rose petals, pepper. This is ripe and plush but fresh, earthy, complex, and it finishes with notes of cocoa and clove. Two to four years could do interesting things for this wine, but shows well right out of the bottle. 10 months in 1/3 new French oak. (89 points)

2012 Dolin Estate The Blue Note - California, South Coast, Malibu
SRP: $45
Light purple color. Awesome aromas of black cherries, raspberry jam, roasted fig, coffee, candied pecans. Lovely balance on the palate with bold texture, velvety tannins, moderate acidity keeps it fresh. Tart plum, blackberry, the fruit is loaded with coffee, charcoal, tar, cedar and cola. This was an eye-opening wine for me in the sense that it was absolutely delicious, showed solid balance, lots of depth, and it’s the first wine from this area I’ve tasted. A blend of 44% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc, aged 21 months in oak. The vineyard sits 1,450 feet above the Malibu coast. Intriguing and special stuff. (91 points)

2013 J. McClelland Merlot - California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll

SRP: $35
Light purple color. Rich, pretty aromas of violets, sweet pipe tobacco and cola on top of juicy red and black cherries and plums. Full but not heavy with velvety tannins and moderate acidity. Dark plums, tart black cherries, the fruit meshes with tobacco, violets, potting soil and notes of cedar and vanilla. This could unfurl for a few years, but it’s good to go now, although it really opens up with air. Includes 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine spends 28 months in French oak. (90 points)

2013 J. McClelland Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll
SRP: $45
Light purple color. Nose shows juicy blackberries, saucy dark currant, and a whole lot of chewing tobacco, mint, coffee grounds, fallen leaves, bell pepper – the aromas are complex and firing. Full-bodied on the palate with nice grip to the tannins with medium acidity to balance it all out. Tart but rich black currants and black cherry fruit, and I love the level of earth and spice complexities: tobacco, mint, charcoal, charred herbs, bell pepper. Notes of cedar linger on the finish. Structure and depth are impressive but it maintains a spicy and fresh style, which balances out very nicely. (92 points)

2014 Frank Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $52
Light purple color. Tart black currants, black cherry, plum skins, mixed in with vanilla, cola, but also some mint, eucalyptus and spicy pepper. The palate shows dry but velvety tannins and some moderate acidity, surprising balance and freshness. The black cherry, tart blueberry and cassis fruit is fresh and vibrant but plenty ripe, and mixed with notes of tobacco, soy sauce, potting soil, and integrated cedar, vanilla and coffee notes. Yummy but also structured, this could do nicely with three to six years in the cellar, but delicious now. Includes 8% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc, this wine is aged 20 months in 1/3 new French oak. (90 points)

2014 Grgich Hills Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $72
Rich purple color. Gorgeous aromatics of currants, dark plums, so much spicy, herbal and savory tones as well: pepper, sage, mint, dusty earth, leather, soy. Full and structured well with taut tannins and lively acidity. Gushing plums and tart currants glide over the palate despite the youthfulness of the wine. So much earth, charcoal, pepper, leather, sage, woven in with cedar, mocha and clove. Gorgeous stuff but built for the long haul, this is another killer vintage of a perennial performer (in my book). Includes 14% Merlot and a combined 7% Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, aged 21 months in 60% new French oak. (93 points)

2013 Quilt Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $100
Bold purple color. Nose shows dark currants, black cherries, lots of violets, vanilla, graphite, charcoal, lots going on. Bold and ripe on the palate with gushing dark plums and blueberries on a frame of chewy tannins, plush mouthfeel, and moderate acidity that helps it from being too intense. Creamy vanilla, coffee, sweet pipe tobacco, roasted chestnut, this is an extracted, gushing style, but it’s all held together quite well, and straight delicious. 70% new oak, all Cabernet from valley floor fruit. (90 points)

2014 Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $37
Deep ruby/light purple color. Dark and saucy red and black berry fruit on the nose, along with coffee beans, black pepper, tobacco, root beer and eucalyptus. Full-bodied, dry but rounded tannins, medium-low acidity. The palate is loaded with blackberry and raspberry, some roasted fig and plum cake, and mixed with cocoa, coffee, roasted chestnut, root beer and chewing tobacco. Hedonistic and rich but nuanced. Includes 14% Petite Sirah, this wine is aged 16 months in 1/3 new French oak. (89 points)

2014 Mounts Family Winery Zinfandel Old Vine - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $36
Rich ruby color. Aromas of dark cherries, jammy blackberry and raspberries, also cola, sweet barbecue, roasted chestnut and vanilla. Full-bodied and burly, this is a chewy, rich wine with velvety tannins and low acid, but it’s so delicious. Plump black cherries, jammy raspberries and blackberries, fig paste. I get complex notes of bourbon, cola, coffee, sweet barbecue sauce, black pepper. Big, bold, but quite nice. 15.8% alcohol, this spends 17 months in 60% new French oak. (88 points)

2014 Mauritson Wines Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $35
Light purple. Nose of fig paste, plum cake, black cherry ice cream, with some scorched earth mixed in. Full-bodied, so smooth, velvety tannins, low acidity, a chewy wine. Rich black fruit and roasted figs, laced with milk chocolate, sarsaparilla, roasted chestnut, also some earthy, peppery tones. A burly hedonistic Zinfandel for near-term consumption. All Zin, 14.6% alcohol, this spends 14 months in mostly French oak. (87 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Malibu Winery Shows Southern California Can Produce Exceptional Wine

Vineyards thrive all over California. North, South, East, West, there are far more wine regions than the average consumer is aware of. Humboldt, El Dorado, Temecula… Malibu?

When I hear Malibu, I think of surfing, especially this time of year when Southern California is graced with frequently large swells from the Southern Hemisphere. Malibu’s legendary point break is one of the most famous (and crowded) in the state. But take a trek to higher inland ground, and, sure enough, there are grapevines.

I recently tasted my first wine from the Malibu Coast American Viticultural Area, and was really impressed. It hails from Malibu’s Dolin Estate, which overlooks the Pacific Ocean near the Pacific Coast highway. Elliott and Lynn Dolin decided to plant a small vineyard in the backyard of their Malibu home in 2006. This estate Chardonnay apparently turned out quite well, and Dolin Estate has been expanding since.

With Central Coast winemaker Kirby Anderson in the cellar, Dolin Estate also produces a Bordeaux-style blend from a site in Newton Canyon, four miles from the coast and 1,450 feet in elevation. There aren’t too many grapes around here, so Dolin also sources Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from some well-known Central Coast vineyards.

The wine I tasted is called the Blue Note, and it is killer. Elliott Dolin was a session bassist for jazz bands, so this wine (a Right Bank Bordeaux-inspired blend) pays homage to the iconic NYC jazz club, the Blue Note. Elliott also has plans for a Left Bank-inspired blend named after the West Coast club, The Troubadour.

The wines are available in some local bars and restaurants, local retailers, and online.

Below are my notes on two Dolin Estate wines I tasted recently.

2014 Dolin Estate Chardonnay Bien Nacido - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $39
Light yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd, apricot, melted butter, graham cracker. Full-bodied with pleasant creaminess and fresh acidity. Rich but pure and vibrant with lime, apricot, bruised apple, richer elements of toasted nuts, lemon curd and honey mix well with sea salt and chalk dust. Packed with flavor, delicious but so lively. Fermented in 1/3 new French oak, 100% maloactic fermentation, aged 13 months in oak. (90 points)

2012 Dolin Estate The Blue Note - California, South Coast, Malibu
SRP: $45
Light purple color. Awesome aromas of black cherries, raspberry jam, roasted fig, coffee, candied pecans. Lovely balance on the palate with bold texture, velvety tannins, moderate acidity keeps it fresh. Tart plum, blackberry, the fruit is loaded with coffee, charcoal, tar, cedar and cola. This was an eye-opening wine for me in the sense that it was absolutely delicious, showed solid balance, lots of depth, and it’s the first wine from this area I’ve tasted. A blend of 44% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc, aged 21 months in French oak. The vineyard sits 1,450 feet above the Malibu coast. Intriguing and special stuff. (91 points)