Raptor Ridge offers diverse, exciting Oregon portfolio

Raptor Ridge Winery has been building up a reputation for classic Oregon wines for more than a quarter century now. Founder and winegrower Scott Shull has been vinifying Oregon grapes since 1989, and in 1995, he founded Raptor Ridge as a garage winery. His wife Annie Shull is the winery’s chief operations officer, and together, this power couple went on to prepare their own vineyard in 2000, and open their own tasting room in 2010.

I’ve tasted a few of their wines over the years, and remember being impressed with their liveliness, depth and value. And, as a bird nerd and big-time raptor dork, I’ll confess, I was always attracted to how they incorporate local raptors (like Cooper’s Hawks and Peregrine Falcons) into their whole aesthetic. And I also respect their up-front stance on some of the States’ social woes, and their commitment to do what they can to diversify the wine industry.

But it's all about the juice, and Raptor Ridge delivers. They source grapes from their estate Tuscowallame Vineyard, located in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. The Shulls also obtain grapes from a range of different Willamette Valley vineyards, up to about a dozen, depending on the vintage. If you’re looking to try a few different wines without spending a ton of money, Raptor Ridge offers some pretty cool “$99 AVA Series” three-packs on their website.

I recently received a few Raptor Ridge wines to review, which represent a good cross-section of their portfolio. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Raptor Ridge Pinot Noir Brut Rosé - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
SRP: $50
McIntosh apple-colored. Bright and clean on the nose with strawberry, red apple peel, sour cherries, with rose petals and lilies. On the palate, this has a crisp, focused, zippy appeal, with a leaner, chalkier vibe. 3 g/l dosage, aged four years before disgorgement. All Pinot Noir from Harbinger and Tuscowallame Estate. (89 points)

2019 Raptor Ridge Grüner Veltliner Tuscowallame Estate - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Chehalem Mountains
SRP: $30
Light yellow. Bright, salty, floral and perfumed on the nose, over top of green apples and limes, with some celery seed and mint. On the palate, this is brisk, bright, steely and perfumed, with a flinty, chalky, salty appeal. Lemons and green apple fruit blend well with fresh, spicy tones of honeysuckle and lemon verbena. Beautifully zippy, salad- and summer-friendly. All stainless steel, from vines planted in 2006. (89 points)

2018 Raptor Ridge Auxerrois Zenith Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. The nose pops with lemon, lime and quince, along with notes of hay, sea salt and cucumber slices, chalk dust – really inviting and fresh. Medium/light bodied but nice depth of texture here, too, vibrant, lip-smacking acidity. Lemons, limes and kiwi fruit, woven together with notes of sea salt, floral perfume, oyster shell tones. Zesty but complex, lovely texture, nuanced. Definitely a fun wine to check out. Fermented in neutral oak, with some stainless steel-fermented wine, too. (90 points)

2018 Raptor Ridge Chardonnay Gran Moraine Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $50
Medium yellow color. Lovely mix of yellow apples and lemon curd, with sea salt, chalk dust, honey and ginger complexities, too. The palate is nervy and vibrant but the texture is creamy and generous, too. Yellow apples, lemon zest and orange peel fruit. Complex elements of chalk, flint, honey, ginger, crushed shells, all sorts of flower petals. Pure, expressive, focused, beautiful Chardonnay. This Gran Moraine Vineyard is a really special site for Chardonnay. Aged 10 months in French oak. (92 points)

2016 Raptor Ridge Tempranillo Folin Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Rogue Valley
SRP: $40
Beautiful deep ruby color. Delightful nose of strawberry, black cherry, along with smoky beef jerky, pepper and violets. Medium-bodied with a velvety, chewy, but fresh feel. Balanced, structured, approachable, with deep cherries and plum fruit. Complex notes of black pepper, beef jerky and black tea. Spicy but juicy and fresh, a delightful and expressive interpretation of this grape. Aged 23 months in French oak. (91 points)

2018 Raptor Ridge Pinot Noir Estate 777 Clone Tuscowallame - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Chehalem Mountains
SRP: $50
Dark ruby color. The nose shows an inviting mix of wild cherry and raspberry, with rose petals, rhubarb and some earthy, clay tones. Vibrant acidity on the palate, this is bright and crisp, with velvety tannins. Tangy cherries and wild raspberry mix nicely with mulling spices, bay leaf, herbal tea and roasted chestnut. There’s a pleasantly dusty, earthy, mushroomy and bacon mix that lingers long on the finish. Refined already, but this should really open up over the next two to five years. Aged nine months in about ¼ new French oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Digging into the Rioja Wines of Bodegas LAN

For me, Rioja has always carried with it this sense of noble history and tradition. I associate Rioja with old, dusty cellars, giant oak vats, bottles with Spanish noblemen on the labels. 

But Bodegas LAN is a relative newbie in this time-honored region, and does things a bit differently. Formed in 1972 in Rioja Alta, the name of this estate is an acronym based on the Rioja provinces of Logroño, Alava and Navarra. They produce a wide range of wines, from inexpensive, early-drinking bottles, to deeper, concentrated wines that benefit from years of cellar aging. 

LAN’s best wines come from the Viña Lanciano vineyard, a 180-acre property that sticks out like a thumb into a bend of the Ebro River. Divided into 22 parcels, Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Graciano and Garnacha vines (some of which 60 years old) dig into rocky, riverbed soils. Being surrounded by water helps shield these vines from temperature extremes during the year. 

Another thing about LAN that makes it unique is their barrel regimen and cellar room. The cellar has about 20,000 casks stacked in different pyramids. Installed around 2000, LAN has an automatic stacking and racking system that keeps their barrels organized. Every six months, the barrels are racked, emptied and tasted, allowing the winemaking team to adjust barrel regimen if needed. 

LAN also uses a wide selection of oak types, sourced from France, America, Russia, Hungary and Spain. Hybrid casks (with American oak staves and French oak heads) are used for the LAN Crianza and Reserva. 

In November, I had the opportunity to taste through a bunch of wines from Bodegas LAN with Winestudio, a wine education and marketing program. It was an interesting time, learning about these wines, and being reminded about how much quality these wines can show, for relatively few dollars. 

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted. 

2016 Bodegas LAN Rioja Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
$13
This has a pleasantly smoky nose with tangy red cherries, raspberries, and notes of menthol, vanilla and herbs. Medium-bodied, light/moderate tannins, tangy acidity. Juicy black cherries topped in roasted herbs, mint, coffee and pepper. Has an easy-drinking personality, but also shows some solid complexity for a Crianza. Aged 14 months in hybrid oak barrels, includes about 4% Mazuelo. (87 points)


2011 Bodegas LAN Rioja Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
$23
Light purple color. Lovely depth of dark fruit aromas (cassis, black cherries), with lots of anise, violets, potting soil, spiced tea – inviting, integrated aromas. Medium-bodied with structured tannins, nuanced edges, moderate acidity. Nice core of blackberries, red and black currants, fleshy but tangy fruit. Complex earthy, smoky, charcoal, tobacco, violets. There’s a really crisp finish with all sorts of floral and spice tones. Three to four years could do this well. (90 points) 


2016 Bodegas LAN Rioja D-12 Tenth Edition - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
$20
Bright purple color. Quite concentrated on the nose, with red and black cherries, topped in mesquite, pepper, roasted herbs and vanilla. Smooth and velvety on the palate, built well though, with solid grip for a Crianza, and lively acidity. Smooth black cherries and crunchy dark plums, blended with smoky herbs, tobacco leaf, autumn forest and vanilla. Fresh and accessible but “serious,” too. Really opens up with some air, this is a delightful Crianza. All Tempranillo, aged 70% new American oak and 30% new French oak. A blend from a 30 year-old vineyard located in Lanciego (Rioja Alavesa) and one in Rioja Alta. (89 points)   


2015 Bodegas LAN Rioja Xtreme Ecologico Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
$18
Bold purple color. Saucy aromas of black cherries, plum sauce, roasted fig, along with smoky earthy, coffee grounds, violets and spicy black tea. Medium-bodied, moderate tannins fresh acidity, this is bright but structured, balanced quite well. Tangy black cherries and roasted figs mix well with lots of floral complexities, earth, herbs. A lot of refinement for a Crianza, this is lovely now, but two to four years should do it good. All Tempranillo sourced from an organic plot in the Lanciano estate, aged 14 months in French oak. (89 points)


2012 Bodegas LAN Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
$18
Medium purple color. Aromas pop with juicy black cherries, red and black currants, with an enticing aspect of earth, smoke, charcoal and spicy herbs. Medium+bodied with smooth, integrated tannins and moderate acidity. Nice concentration of fruit (black cherries, currant compote), along with charcoal, graphite, fallen leaves and vanilla elements. Drinking well now but this could show more in a few years. Serious value in here. Aged 18 months in hybrid French/American oak barrels. (89 points)

2012 Bodegas LAN Rioja Reserva Viña Lanciano - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
$27
Deep ruby color. Nose shows tart, dark, crunchy cherries, laced with lots of tobacco, spiced black tea, anise and charcoal. Medium-bodied, really fresh and inviting, with velvety but structured tannins, the crisp, cool nature is really attractive. Red and black currants and cherries, raspberries, smooth, crunchy fruit. Notes of smoky charcoal, anise, black tea and chewing tobacco, with a graphite and mineral layer underneath. This should do well with five years in the cellar. Includes a combined 10% Graciano and Mazuelo, sourced from old vines in the Lanciano estate, this wine is aged 14 months in French oak, and then eight months in Russian oak. (91 points)


2016 Bodegas LAN Rioja Edición Limitada - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
$36
Vibrant purple color. Rich core of suave red and black cherries and currants, lots of tobacco, mint, anise, black tea, cocoa powder, vanilla. Medium/full-bodied, nice grip, solid but not abrasive tannins, lively acidity — balance is on point. Gobs of dark cherries and currants, the fruit is ripe but lively. The wine is loaded with graphite, tobacco, mint and coffee. Needs air to coax out the full host of herbal, spicy complexities. Built for aging, but suave and vibrant now as well. Sourced from 35- to 40-year-old vines in the El Rincon parcel of the Lanciano estate, this includes some Mazuelo and Graciano as well. Aged nine months in new French oak, then five months in new Russian oak. (92 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: New Releases from Around the Globe

This week’s report covers wines from all over the globe, including Chile, France, Israel, Italy, Portugal and Spain.

The new vintage of Concha y Toro’s Don Melchor (the 2015), is a real stunner, while the Chilean producer Odfjell offers less expensive but exciting wines.

I cover a few wines from the Abruzzo region of Italy, along with the perennially value-driven wines from M. Chapoutier’s Bila-Haut brand. Yarden offers up a delicious Champagne method bubbly from Israel, while the Spanish region of Navarra (keeping with tradition) comes through with some solid buys.

These wines were all received as samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Odfjell Carignan Orzada - Chile, Maule Valley
SRP $23
Medium purple color. The nose is vibrant but bold with black cherries, red and black currants, and a great mix of black pepper, leather, grilled steak, with some nice floral undertones, too. Full-bodied (15%) with a velvety feel, and the solid tannins align well with medium acidity. Rich but tangy fruit (black cherries, dark plums, saucy black currants), backed up with a mix of leather, roasted herbs, rose petals, anise, charcoal and earth. Loving the depth and complexity here, and I’d like to age this 3-5 years. From 20- to 80-year-old, dry-farmed, Carignan vines. (89 points)

2013 Odfjell Aliara - Chile, Central Valley
SRP: $44
Rich purple color. So spicy on the nose, with a mix of menthol, mint, roasted herbs and pepper on top of black currants and cherries. Full-bodied, nice grip to the tannins but not harsh, this is a smooth and nicely balanced wine with medium acidity. Black cherries and currants are topped in loamy, rocky, earthy notes, as well as black pepper, roasted red pepper and mushroom. This makes me crave steak! Complex, long, this could use a few years of cellar time. A blend of 65% Carignan, 20% Syrah and 15% Malbec from vineyards in Cauquenes, Lontué Valley and Maule Valley. (90 points)

2015 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Don Melchor - Chile, Maipo Valley, Puente Alto
SRP: $120
Rich purple color. The aromas show rich tobacco, pepper, scorched earth, grilled herbs, on top of tangy black currants, dark plums, cocoa and cedar. Full-bodied on the palate with serious grip on the tannins but vibrant acidity, the balance is impressive for a wine this young. Crunchy plums, black currant, rich but fresh fruit laced with complex earth, pepper, chewing tobacco, mint, charcoal, tar, coffee. Wonderful depth and balance with a long finish full of graphite and minerals. So young, with many years ahead, but classic Don Melchor stuff, an excellent vintage of this wine. 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. (94 points)

2017 M. Chapoutier Côtes du Roussillon Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Blanc - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon
SRP: $15
Pale lemon color. Aromas of lemons, pineapple and kiwi, bright yet rich fruit, along with yellow flowers, honey and sea salt. Rich texture, lovely honeyed and waxy notes but fresh acidity and a crisp feel, too. Flavors of lemon, kiwi and pineapple mixed with flower petals, sea salt, honeyed tea. Plush but crisp, this is fun but serious, and would be so good with a diverse array of foods. A blend of Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Macabeo and Vermentino, this is a perennially awesome value. (88 points)

2017 M. Chapoutier Côtes du Roussillon Villages Les Vignes de Bila-Haut - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages
SRP: $15
Light purple. Nose shows bright raspberries mixed with juicy black cherries, along with rhubarb, black pepper, leather, sweet eucalyptus and rose petals. Fleshy texture on the palate, light and dusty tannins with crisp acidity, lots of red and black cherries, raspberries and plums. Notes of smoke, lavender, charcoal, black pepper and rose petals. Lovely, vibrant, delicious stuff, as usual, seriously delivering for the price. Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. (88 points)

2010 Golan Heights Winery Yarden Blanc de Blancs - Israel, Galilee, Golan Heights
SRP: $33
Light gold color. On the nose, this is breezy and floral, with chalk dust, sea salt and slight biscuit notes on top of lemon, lime and green melon. Crisp and bright on the palate with fine bubbles and a zesty appeal. Lime, lemon, green apple, topped with white flowers, crushed chalk, sea salt. Some light biscuit notes, but this is a bright, light (11.5% alcohol) Chardonnay-based sparkling wine that would be great with salads and sushi. (88 points)

2017 Citra Trebbiano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo
SRP: $10
Light yellow color. Aromas of lemons, white peach, along with floral perfume and honeysuckle. Fresh and bright on the palate, this is plump and peachy but shows nice acidity as well. Lemon, apples, simple, pleasant and fun with notes of honeysuckle, cucumber slices and sea salt. Good for the price. (85 points)

2017 Citra Pecorino Ferzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Terre di Chieti IGT
SRP: $26
Light yellow color. Aromas boast white peaches, green melons, along with flowers, perfume, so bright and vibrant, too. Crisp acidity on the palate with fleshy texture, almost waxy, and the balance and depth is impressive. Melon, lemon, apricot, along with deep floral and mineral tones, some stony, chalky complexity. A juicy and fun-loving wine, this would work nicely with so many different types of foods, but it has a lot of complexity as well. (89 points) 

2016 Citra Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Ferzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
SRP: $26
Light purple color. Aromas of black cherries, plums, dark and fruity with elements of spiced tea, espresso and grilled herbs. Medium+ bodied with tangy, refreshing acidity and moderate tannins. Dark plums and cherries, deep but crunchy fruit, along with some pepper, loamy earth and espresso. Enough grip and depth to age for a few; this could stand up to some hearty grilled meats as well. (88 points)

2012 Dow Porto Late Bottled Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $24
Rich purple color. Nose of roasted fig, sweet plums, blackberry and black cherries, saucy and jammy, with coffee and clove and anise. Full and sweet but fresh, with accessible tannins, moderating acidity, and flavors of juicy black cherries, roasted figs and plum cake. Notes of clove, vanilla, sweet fig cookies and violets. Accessible and fun, but not simple, this delivers a lot of complexity for the price – great cold weather, holiday party choice in LBV Port category. (89 points)

2016 Castillo de Monjardín Navarra La Cantera - Spain, Navarra
SRP: $12
Deep ruby color. Smells of strawberry and black cherry jam, smoky tobacco, herbs, clove and vanilla. Fresh and bright on the palate with light tannins and juicy raspberries, strawberries and red plums. Flavors of tobacco, mint, cola and vanilla add some complexity. Fresh and fun, accessible but balanced, too. Nice for the price. 85% Garnacha and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Stainless steel-fermented, aged six months in old French oak. (87 points)

2016 Bodegas Nekeas Garnacha El Chaparral de Vega Sindoa - Spain, Navarra
SRP: $14
Light purple color. Smells of raspberries and jammy plums, saucy and smoky, with tobacco and anise notes. Light tannins, full-bodied, yet medium acidity helps it balance out. Black cherries, plums, this is a juicy, ripe and plush wine with a nice mix of violets, tobacco, espresso. Fun, crowd-pleasing, value-driven stuff. All Garnacha aged five months in French oak barrels. (87 points)

2010 Bodegas Ochoa Navarra Reserva - Spain, Navarra
SRP: $33Light purple color. Nose boasts dark plums, currants, blackberries, mixed in with a hefty amount of charcoal, leather, coffee grounds and grilled herbs. Dusty tannins but nice grip, velvety feel but bright acidity, and the balance is nice. Tart black currants and tangy plums, I get a lot of deep earth, graphite, leather, violets and soy. Complexity is impressive, this is ready to drink now or hold for a few years. Tempranillo with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, aged 18 months in new American and French oak, aged 36 months in bottle before release. (89 points)

<85 points
2017 Citra Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
SRP: $10 
Medium ruby color. Nose shows raspberries, red cherries, rhubarb and white pepper. Medium-bodied on the palate with dusty-light tannins and tart acidity. Cherries and raspberries mix with notes of spiced tea, coffee and earth. Simple, fun, crowd-pleasing, pizza-friendly wine.

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Incredible Wine & Value from Lodi: Fields Family Wines

This week I have to rant a bit about some really impressive wines from Fields Family Wines. This Lodi estate and winery was purchased by Russ Fields in 2005, and Ryan Sherman makes the wines.

This producer represents everything I love about Lodi wines — lots of old vines, a wide range of grape varieties, vibrant flavor profiles. But these wines are also leaner, fresher and more minimalist in style than some of the burlier wines one can find from Lodi.

I’ve long been a fan of the Syrahs and Tempranillo from this producer, although I’ve never tasted an unexciting wine, and I’m excited to see what Ryan continues to do with Grenache Blanc and Vermentino. On top of the quality, this wines are a ripping deal considering the price tags.

They were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Fields Family Wines Grenache Blanc DeLu Vineyard - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $24
Interesting pale copper color. Aromas of chalk dust, sea shells, limestone on top of peaches and apricots and orange blossom. Zesty acidity on the palate of this medium-bodied wine, it’s full of juicy fruit (apricot, green apple, lemon curd) but complex with elements of chalk dust, honeysuckle, sea shells, floral perfume. Mineral-driven, oceanic, crisp, lively, delicious stuff. More California Grenache Blanc, please! (91 points) 

2016 Fields Family Wines Vermentino DeLu Vineyard - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $21
Medium yellow color. Love the nose of peaches and citrus peel, along with complex floral notes and sea salt. Crisp and lively wine on a medium-bodied frame with lots of lemon zest, peach nectar, apricot, along with chalky, sea shell and sea breeze notes and a whole lot of baby’s breath and cut flowers. Tingling minerality on the finish. Delicious, complex stuff. Insane value here. (92 points)  

2014 Fields Family Wines Tempranillo Lot 13 Vineyard - California, Central Valley, Lodi

SRP: $28
Light purple color. Aromatic waves of red and black cherries and currants, complex roses and violets, spicy potpourri, anise, clay pots, tobacco and coffee grounds. Full-bodied, solid grip to the tannins, moderating acidity keeps it balanced. Plush but tangy with red and black cherries, plums and smoky figs, along with cocoa, anise, charcoal dust, tobacco pipe, grilled herbs, violets. Wow, the balance is pristine, the depth is obvious, the deliciousness is undeniable and I’d love to hold this for 3-5 years. (92 points)  

2014 Fields Family Wines Syrah Estate - California, Central Valley, Lodi, Mokelumne River
SRP: $25
Light purple color. Smells of spiced coffee, tobacco, black pepper, cinnamon, on top of tart black cherries, raspberries and tangy plums. Medium+ tannins, fresh acidity, nice balance and vibrancy but structure for the cellar. Tart plums and raspberries mix with cola, cocoa powder, spiced black tea, chicory coffee, cedar, fallen leaves and pepper. Lovely balance and freshness but this is also serious and will improve in the cellar. Stellar for the price. All Syrah aged in less than 20% new French oak. (91 points)

2016 Fields Family Wines Syrah Whole Cluster - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $25
Lively ruby color. Aromas of bright red cherries, wild blueberries, roses, black pepper, lavender, incense sticks. Wow, complex elements of earth and smashed rocks – fascinating to sniff. Medium-bodied with lip-smacking acidity, fresh but shows medium/dusty tannins. Plump but tart fruit (red and black cherries and tangy plums). Notes of coffee, black pepper, clove, bay leaf, loamy soil. Bright and juicy but complex, yet so easy to drink. 100% whole cluster, semi-carbonic fermentation in old barrels, 12.8% alcohol. Seek this out if you’re looking for a more Old World style Syrah from Lodi. Wow. (93 points) 

2014 Fields Family Wines Zinfandel Stampede Vineyard - California, Central Valley, Lodi, Clements Hills
SRP: $28
Gorgeous ruby color. Vibrant aromas of red cherries, currants, strawberry, with lots of spicy oregano, rhubarb, pipe tobacco, violets and pepper. On the palate this shows solid but suave tannins, moderating acidity, and a lip-smacking appeal. Packed with cherries and currants, the fruit is tart but deep, and laced with notes of rich clay and loamy earth, violets, coffee, black olive, clove and spiced coffee. Silky, clean and crisp but packed with complex flavors and aging potential. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Paso Robles - Beyond Bordeaux & Rhone Reds

A vineyard in the Templeton Gap District of Paso Robles, which I visited in early September.

Paso Robles built its reputation on big, juicy red wines made from Rhone or Bordeaux varieties. That reputation is well-earned, as there are thrilling Cabs, Syrahs, Mourvedres, and all sorts of blends, coming out of Paso. But, after spending a few days exploring the wine scene in this Central Coast wine region, I came away impressed with lots of wines, made from grapes that might surprise you. And a lot of them are really, really good.

Cabernet Sauvignon is the most widely planted grape in Paso Robles, and Bordeaux varieties make up 55% of the region’s vineyard acreage, according to the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance. And there are Rhone grapes (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Counoise, Petite Sirah), all over the place. Add in Zinfandel, and you’ve got most of Paso’s wine covered.

But to focus solely on those wines (as good as they are) would be to miss out on a lot really cool stuff. I found several white Rhones that were salty, brisk and delicious (Grenache Blanc, usually blended, seems to do exceedingly well here.) More producers and releasing rosé, both from Rhone and other grapes, so there are plenty of lively, spicy pinks out in Paso. Then there are wines made from Spanish, Portuguese, and Italian grapes.

Paso’s varied soils and microclimates allow conscientious winegrowers to explore all sorts of grapes for all sorts of wine styles. More than 40 grape varieties are grown in Paso Robles, and there is likely room for growth in that department.

These wines were tasted in Paso Robles, sighted, usually with the winemaker.

2016 Brecon Estate Viognier-Grenache Blanc

$34
The aromas on this white blend pop like crazy with white peaches, green melons, lime zest, floral perfume. Plump and peachy with guava nectar, honey, slight oily note, but also fresh and lively. Medium acid from the Grenache Blanc, juicy honeyed fruit from the Viognier, this is a fun blend with a good combo of oily-honey aspects with crisp, salty aspects. (50/50 Viognier and Grenache Blanc) (89 points)

2015 Brecon Estate Albariño
$30
Bright but tropical nose with white peaches, pineapple, and some almond, sea salt notes. Crisp but nice weight on the palate (a stirred lees character is evident, and adds complexity). Peaches and green melon, orange zest and honey, but a bright salty streak throughout, this is a very pretty and quite complex Albarino. There are a bunch of producers in Paso taking this grape seriously, and it shows. (90 points)

2016 Vino Vargas Albariño Aha!
$24
The nose shows peaches and bright oranges, along with flowers and sea breeze. Zesty and bright on the palate with a dry, mouthwatering feel despite the solid depth of peach and apricot fruit. Flowers and sea salt, drizzled with lime, that’s the finish. Lovely. I’m stoked a bunch of Paso winemakers are taking Albarino seriously, because it can work really well. (90 points)

2010 Denner Viognier
$ n/a
Oily and rich on the nose with almond and lemon curd. Creamy but shows vibrancy. Lemon, quince, almond, hay, candle wax. Oily but not heavy and surprisingly fresh at this age. A great example of how Paso wines (and not just reds), can age very nicely. From winemaker Anthony Yount's first year as winemaker, this is an excellent effort, an eye-opening one for me. (91 points)

2015 Denner Viognier
$48
Aromatics show peaches and lemon curd with brighter floral tones and notes of almond and candle wax. Richness and creaminess is helped by moderate acidity. Peaches and lemon curd blend with spiced tea, honey and almond. Very nice stuff, and an interesting comparison back-to-back with the 2010. (90 points)

2013 Le Cuvíer Viognier
$58
Bold golden color (this is made with significant skin contact). Awesome aromatic blend of honey, almond, olive oil, dried mango, circus peanuts. On the palate this is plush and waxy but actually shows some acidity to balance it out. Plump apricot, mango slices, orange marmalade, I also get flavors of warm honey and tea, almond skin, clove, green tea leaves. Whoa, this is unique, crazy, wild, delicious stuff. It’s made like a red wine and aged 42 months in old oak and served at cellar temperature. Very cool. I could see lots of people disliking this, but I find it fascinating and delicious. (91 points)

2012 Derby Wine Estates Project España
$32
Nose shows fresh red fruits and bright roses. Medium tannins, vibrant acidity, crisp red fruit, this is a spicy, pepper, herb-tinged homage to Spanish Tempranillo-based blends, and it pulls it off well. But it still has this saucy fruit/fresh mineral combo that is uniquely Paso. Really fun stuff. Tempranillo with Graciano, Grenache and Carignan. (89 points)

2015 Wild Horse Blaufränkisch Reserve
$30
The nose is spicy and awesome, with red and blue fruit, laced with cinnamon and dark spiced tea. Plush and juicy on the palate with solid tannic bite and medium/fresh acidity. Lots of spice cake, cinnamon, herbal tea. Seriously deep and fresh. (91 points)

2015 Pasoport Wine Co. Chenin Blanc Per Caso
$27
I was stoked to finally taste a Chenin on this trip, and I was shocked by how good this one was. Nose is super zippy with lemon pith, lime, sea salt, chalk dust. Full of acidity and salinity on the palate but pretty texture and weight as well. Lemon/lime and pineapple blend with crushed shells and rocks, sea spray and almond shell. Really cool stuff. (90 points)

2012 Pasoport Wine Co. Per Caso Iberian Blend
$45
Aromas gush with red and black cherries, blueberries, rolled together with coffee and incense sticks. Great concentration on the palate, sturdy but refreshing, with black cherry and currant compote-style fruit, along with complex elements of clove, spiced coffee, pepper, mint and earth. Long finish, long time ahead, I’m really enjoying this blend of Portuguese grapes. 63% Touriga Nacional, 29% Tinto Cão, 8% Souzão. (91 points)

2013 Pasoport Wine Co. Touriga Nacional Per Caso
$49
Bursting aromas of raspberry jam and red currants, along with spicy clove, sweet herbs and red licorice. Juicy on the palate but nice grip to the tannins, gushing red fruits mix with pepper, charcoal, black tea, cocoa and coffee notes. Per Caso’s Glenrose Vineyard wines are making me think I need to see more Paso wines made from Portuguese grapes, because these wines are firing. 100% Touriga Nacional. (91 points)

2013 Seashell Cellars Balboa Reserve

$25
Love the charred herbs on the nose, and some black cherries, raspberry jam and cocoa powder. Silky, velvety, beautiful texture and nice balance, with lots of crushed blueberries and plums. Notes of mocha, charcoal, herbs, tobacco, and anise. Grippy and forward but delicious and complex, too. Tempranillo-based blend. (91 points)

2016 Clesi Malvasia Bianca San Bernabe
$24
Punchy nose with apricots, mango, floral extract. Floral and bright on the palate with so, so much lychee, and some peach and honey. Dry, super tropical and a bit heavily floral but it stays fresh and goes down easy. (87 points)

2014 Clesi Dolcetto Nevarez Vineyard
$28
Aromas of sweet black cherries, red flowers, cola and tar. On the palate it shows dusty tannins, zesty acid, lots of black cherry and currant compote. Smoky herbal tones meet sweet violets. Delicious, well-balanced example of this grape – very impressive. (89 points)

2014 Clesi Sangiovese
$36
Pretty red currants, violets and roses on the nose, with some spiced berry tea. Pretty, so pretty on the palate with silky tannins, fresh acidity, spicy red currants. Notes of violets, cola, tobacco and rosemary add complexity. Nice stuff. (89 points)

2014 Clesi Convivio

$34
Aromas of red currants and cherries, along with evocative waves of fruit and spice, violets and black tea. Silky, fleshy red fruit with spicy earth, tar and clove flavors on a medium-bodied, sturdy but fresh frame. This producer’s only blended wine, it’s 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 20% Sangiovese. (90 points)

2012 Clesi Aglianico
$36
Wow, the nose is super spicy and awesome with cherries, red currants, pepper, bay leaf, tar. Structured with bold tannins and medium acidity. Grippy but vibrant, delicious but complex with currants, iodine, tar, pepper and leather – lots going on here, and lots to show over the next five years. (90 points)

2013 Clesi Aglianico
$36
Fresher than the 2012, with more juicy cherries, some delicious leather, pepper and sage. Grippy but silky, vibrant acidity. Black cherries and red currants mix with sage, pepper, tar and mocha. Another awesome interpretation of this killer grape. Chris knows his stuff! (90 points)

2013 Clesi Aglianico Amphora
$36
Wow, this is fascinating to taste this next to the one aged in barrel. The amphora adds this airy, floral delicacy to a wine that can be dense and powerful. Spicy floral, lifted aromatics, tarter red fruits. On the palate this has great grip but such freshness and vibrancy. Pretty red fruits and spices – bold flavors but also airy and elegant. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Excellent, Ageworthy, Old-School Rioja from Viña Ardanza

Viña Ardanza is the flagship wine of La Rioja Alta, S.A., which is celebrating its 75^th anniversary this year.

Even though it is only produced in certain years, Viña Ardanza aims for a level of consistency in how the wine is made. It’s a blend of 80% Tempranillo (from the Vina Ardanza vineyard in Rioja Alta) and 20% Garnacha from Rioja Baja. Both wines are aged in American oak — the Tempranillo sees some 36 months in mostly four-year-old oak while the Garnacha gets about 30 months in two- to three-year-old. The 2008 vintage is the first made from entirely estate-grown fruit.

These are old school Riojas with vibrant red fruits and a maze of earthy, savory, spicy elements.  The 2008 should still be on shelves ($32 SRP), while the 2001 Reserva Especial and the 2004 Reserva can be found on the secondary market for about $50. For that kind of money, these wines are absolutely worth it.

I received these wines as trade samples and tasted them sighted.

2001 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Ardanza Reserva Especial - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

Medium ruby color. Aromas of red cherries, dried red currants, red berry compote, and a host of really earthy, savory and floral notes (fallen leaves, tobacco pipe, pine resin, dried roses, smoky herbs) – so much to unpack. The palate is beautiful, tannins provide serious structure and grip, but there’s moderating acidity. Lots of red plum and currant compote, the fruit is slathered in forest floor, chewing tobacco, loamy earth, dried roses, leather – so much complexity. Long, long finish, crisp and bright with mineral tones. Gorgeous stuff for sure, but this could be even more elegant and expressive 10 years from now. (94 points) 

2004 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Ardanza Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

Deep ruby color. There’s a core of black and red cherries and plums on the nose, along with lots of smoke (charcoal, tobacco, roasted cedar, grilled herbs), leather, rose potpourri, lots going on. Pure, vibrant palate with sturdy tannins, but not harsh, moderating acidity. Black and red cherries, crunchy but also slightly roasted notes to the fruit. Laced with so much complex non-fruit elements (tree bark, cigar lounge, leather jacket, rose potpourri, vanilla bean, coffee). Deep mineral tones as well. This has 10+ years of development easily, it’s quite young, but its quality still shows at this point. (93 points)

2008 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Ardanza Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

Deep ruby color. Nose is dense with a deep core of plums, black cherries and red currants, along with potting soil, chewing tobacco, leather, allspice, some cedar and vanilla. Medium-bodied, seriously sturdy tannins, but vibrant acidity, makes for a young but fresh wine. Plums, black cherries, currants, the fruit is dense but crisp, laced with soil, tobacco, leather, pepper, sage, also some coffee grounds and dark chocolate. Lots going on here, but I would bury this in the back of the cellar, forget it for 10-15 years, and be amazed at what it has to offer. 80% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, bottled in 2013. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Delicious Value Wines from Spain's Navarra Region

A vineyard in the Spanish region of Navarra. Credit: Navarra US.

This week, I’m delving into a range of wines from the Spanish region of Navarra.

This region, which is located east of La Rioja, is only about 120 miles from north to south and 60 miles east to west, but it shows a wide range of soils and microclimates. With the Pyrenees Mountains to the north and the Bardenas Reales Desert to the south, the average vineyard in Navarra sits at about 1,300 feet in elevation. Navarra is home to a wide variety of both classic Spanish and international grape varieties.

Most of the wines in this report fall into that “bargain” range of $10-$15, but I found the quality and value to be very solid. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Bodega Inurrieta Sauvignon Blanc Orchidea - Spain, Navarra
SRP: $13
Light gold color. Super bright aromatics with lemons, ruby red grapefruit, some guava, honeysuckle, cut grass. Medium-bodied, slightly creamy with plump fruit (peaches, guava), but moderating acidity. Lots of cut flower stems, some honeyed tea, grass and oregano. Simple, delicious, summer- and salad-friendly stuff. (86 points)

2015 Bodegas Berceo Viura Mas de Berceo - Spain, Navarra
SRP: $15
Pale lemon color. Nose shows tart lime, green apple, saline and some white pepper and green grass. Medium-bodied, bright acidity, a lighter, steely style with flavors of lime, lemon and green pears. Notes of whipped honey and cut flower stems. Light, simple, pleasant wine made from the Viura grape. (85 points)

2015 Castillo de Monjardín Chardonnay El Cerezo Unoaked - Spain, Navarra
SRP: $12
Medium yellow color. Nose of honeyed tea, yellow apples, dandelions and nettle. Medium-bodied and clean with crisp acidity and plump fruit (peach, yellow apple, some lime juice on top). Notes of white and yellow flowers, some nougat and honey woven in but this is a tangy, lighter, shellfish-accompanying style of Chardonnay. (87 points)

2015 Camilo Castilla Muscat Rayo de Sol - Spain, Navarra
SRP: $15
Pale straw. Aromas of lychee, white table grapes, sweet floral perfume, tropical flowers. Round on the palate with sweet tropical fruit (papaya, pineapple, banana) and low acidity. A bit heavy but I could see many palates liking this. (82 points)

2016 Bodegas Ochoa Garnacha Calendas Rosado - Spain, Navarra
SRP: $15
Light watermelon color. Nose shows watermelon, white cherries, notes of cinnamon candy and nettle. Bold and juicy but very bright and crisp of white cherries, strawberries, watermelon, plump but tart fruit. Laced with honeysuckle, rose petal, raspberry leaf tea, honeyed notes. Some chalky mineral elements linger on the finish. So good for the price! (88 points)

2015 Castillo de Monjardín Garnacha La Cantera - Spain, Navarra
SRP: $15
Medium ruby colored. Nose of juicy red cherries, lots of spicy tobacco, pepper, sage and desert brush. Medium-bodied, light tannin, medium acidity, this is a fresh and easy-drinking wine but it shows lots of cherry fruit mixed with a fun mix of tobacco, sage, pepper, some sweeter cola and coffee notes. Lighter-styled for grill-outs and summer drinking. (86 points) 

2015 Bodegas Berceo Tempranillo Mas de Berceo - Spain, Navarra
SRP: $15
Deep ruby/light purple color. Nose shows tangy red and black plums with spicy pepper, sweet cola, leather. Medium+ bodied with light tannins and moderate acidity tangy red and black fruit but plenty of juicy ripeness. Soot, campfire, coffee and cola notes on the finish, drink now, this is a fun, delicious, grill-friendly Tempranillo at a solid price. (87 points)

2011 Bodegas Ochoa Tempranillo Crianza - Spain, Navarra
SRP: $23
Light purple color. Aromas of red plums, red and black cherries, tobacco smoke, charcoal and spicy pepper. Medium-bodied with velvety tannins, decent structure, medium acidity. Plenty of juicy red and black plums and cherries, mixed with notes of tobacco, charcoal, leather. Still a few years ahead but this would be good now with grilled meat and veg. (87 points)

N.V. Camilo Castilla Navarra Capricho de Goya - Spain, Navarra
SRP: $29/500ml
 An auburn/rich brown color. Nose of raisins, roasted figs, musk cologne, sweet cola, brown sugar, pepper. Full-bodied but sports moderate acidity (some volatile acidity) and moderate alcohol (16%), the sugar is balanced quite nicely. Roasted figs, candied apples, yellow raisin, mixed with pepper, root beer, caramelized sugar, a lot going on here. This shows tawny fortified notes mixed with Madeira-style acidity and baked elements, and the end result is delicious. A fortified, barrel-aged, Muscat-based wine. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Arinzano: Stunning Wines from a Spanish "Grand Cru"

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Sancho Fortuñones de Arínzano first produced wine in this Navarra site in the 11th Century. So, yeah, there's some history behind this special spot.

Arinzano received a Vino de Pago classification in 2007, a heralded designation for certain estate-grown and produced Spanish wines. The vines are planted in loam, sand and limestone soils in a cooler area of the Pyrennes, and the vines climb to 1,600 feet.

In brief, these wines are exciting and delicious. Vibrant, bright, complex, full of earthy spice and complexity.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2014 Arinzano Hacienda de Arinzano Blanco - Spain, Navarra, Arinzano
$18
Medium yellow color. Lively aromatic bursts of lemon curd, green apples and juicy pears. The oak shows through on the nose with vanilla and toasted almond but I also get some salty air and floral perfume. Creamy texture on the palate but zesty acidity keeps it fresh. Green apples, lemon curd and pear skin flavors blend with a pronounced sense of chalk, minerals and quinine. The oak is noticeable with vanilla and nut flavors, but they're mixed in very well. The wine is long and seamless, Burgundian, dare I say it. Aged 12 months ion French oak (30% new, 70% second year). (89 points)

2015 Arinzano Hacienda de Arinzano Rosado - Spain, Navarra, Arinzano
$19
Ripe watermelon color. Smells of juicy strawberries, white cherries, watermelon, along with some chalky and spicy notes. Very pretty in its creaminess but quite tart and bright in its approach, Notes of crushed chalk and minerals add complexity to the strawberry, red apple and quince fruit. A nice kick of spiced tea, pepper and nettle comes out as it warms up. Crisp and clean but this packs quite a lot of flavor and depth. 100% Tempranillo from a vineyard that is designated particularly for making this rosé. (88 points)

2011 Arinzano Hacienda de Arinzano Tinto - Spain, Navarra, Arinzano
$23
Gorgeous light purple color. Deep aromas of black cherries, red and black currants, violets, cedar, tobacco, roasted coffee, but the wine needs time to open up to show its full aromatic capacity. Full but fleshy with wonderfully vibrant acidity and structured, dry, dusty tannins. Gorgeous tart fruit (black currant, plum skins) mix with a note of roasted fig, all of it backed by pipe tobacco, forest floor, sage, tobacco. A savory, earthy finish, this wine is great for the lover of brightness and freshness in a bold wine. Impressive but accessible now. Tempranillo with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot, aged 14 months in 40% new French oak. (90 points)

2008 Arinzano La Casona ­- Spain, Navarra, Arinzano
$32
Vibrant dark ruby color. Loamy, cigar shop and herbal notes roll over red currant and dark cherry aromas. The wine really opens up a lot with air to show spicy and earthy complexity. Pure silky on the palate, sure the tannins are structured but they're fined down around the edges and bright acidity pulls it all together. Full of black cherry and dark plum fruit, some lively red berry fruit tossed into the mix as well. I get a host of cedar, cigar box, dried leaves, charcoal and tobacco flavors. So much going on here, but this is also an elegant and pure expression. I'd love to revisit this in three years. A blend of 75% Tempranillo and 25% Merlot aged 14 months in 40% new French oak. (92 points)

Time to Explore American Tempranillo

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

I recently tasted through a half-case of American Tempranillo, and found myself thinking: I wish I saw more of this stuff. The wines came from TAPAS (the Tempranillo Advocates Producers and Amigos Society — clever, huh?), a group of winemakers spreading the word about American interpretations of the classic grape of Rioja.

Four of the wines hail from California, two from Oregon. In 2014, Oregon growers reported more than 340 acres of Tempranillo. Umpqua Valley seems to be leading the pack, and I’ve been floored by Abacecla’s Tempranillo in the past. I agree with Nancy Rodriguez, who pointed out in Oregon Wine Press that Umpqua Valley Tempranillo wines stand out and demand attention. In California, Tempranillo is peppered (generally in small amounts) all over the state, totaling a little less than 1,000 acres as of 2014, according to a USDA report.

So, while there aren’t massive amounts of American Tempranillo, some producers have found a nice niche for these wines. They’re worth checking out.

These wines were tasted single-blind.

2011 Coquerel Tempranillo - California, Napa Valley, Calistoga
SRP: $42
Light purple color. Smoky and earthy on the nose, like loam and campfire, along with black pepper and sweet pipe tobacco, on top of tart red and black currants and juicy dark plums. Full-bodied with moderate structure to the tannins, some fresh acid keeps it moving forward. The black currant and blueberry fruit is rich but pure and tart around the edges. Complex notes of mint, tobacco, pepper and dusty soil, along with some coffee and vanilla accents. Bold but pieced together well, this is quite nice now but will improve with a few years in the cellar. Aged 20 months in used French oak. (90 points)

2013 Castoro Cellars Tempranillo Reserve Whale Rock Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $30
Bright purple color. Smells of raspberry jam, juicy summer plums, some blackberries as well, backed up by cola, violets and pepper glaze. Full-bodied, a juicy texture with velvety tannins, medium-low acid. Jammy black and red fruit, I also get flavors of loamy soil, tobacco and sweet coffee. Not as deep or complex as some of the others in this tasting, but well done, especially if you like a jammier style. Aged 13 months in French and American oak. (86 points)

2013 Lee Family Farm (Morgan Winery) Tempranillo - California, Central Coast, Arroyo Seco
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Smells of black and red currants and tart red berries, sweet cocoa powder, vanilla, along with notes of eucalyptus and tobacco. The palate shows a full-bodied approach with velvety tannins and a refreshing tartness. Black cherries, red and black currants, the fruit is rich but crunchy. Leafy, earthy, dusty elements mix with vanilla and cedar. Open, juicy, ready for business but showing a lot of complexity. Aged in ¼ new French oak. What a solid value. (88 points)

2013 St. Amant Winery Tempranillo The Road Less Traveled - California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County
SRP: $18
Light purple color. Aromas of juicy raspberries and black cherries, along with a hefty dose of pepper, tobacco and clove. Full-bodied, mouth-filling, chewy tannins and low acid. The black cherry and dark plum fruit is jammy and topped in fig cookies, coffee, chocolate, cedar and toasted oak. A more bombastic style for sure, but plenty of fun. (85 points)

2012 Abacela Tempranillo Barrel Select Estate - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Umpqua ValleySRP: $32
Dark ruby color. Smooth and enticing on the nose, with juicy blackberries and black cherries, notes of sweet coffee, rich soil, eucalyptus and tobacco. Full-bodied with a chewy presence, velvety tannins and medium-low acid. The black cherries, blueberries and black currant fruit is really rich and jammy, but it tastes pure, not candied. The fruit is topped with notes of sweet tobacco, eucalyptus, black olive and black pepper. A sense of loamy minerality lingers on the long finish. Rich, bold, chewy but maintains lots of intrigue and complexity. I’d love to retaste in three or four years. (92 points)

2012 Domaine Trouvére Tempranillo Riserva - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Umpqua Valley
SRP: $40
Deep ruby colored. Smells of red and black currants, along with coffee, vanilla and a spicy, earthy, peppery streak. Medium to full-bodied with velvety tannins and medium acid. Rich black currant and blackberries, the fruit is bold but shows a tart edge. Dark and saucy with flavors of mocha, vanilla, black pepper, bay leaf and tobacco. This could use a few years of aging, but an impressive wine for sure. (88 points)

2001 Rioja - Strong, Beautiful Wines With Many Years Left

I recently attended a 2001 Rioja tasting, a vintage widely heralded as “historic.” Grapes struggled through early problems with an April frost, lots of summertime heat and the lingering effects of a drought. However, the resulting wines are beautiful – a bunch of rich and concentrated wines packed with life and power for the cellar. Most of these wines will be better with four or five years or a whole lot of air, as many of them showed best at the end of the night after starting off hesitantly. Yet, at 14 years in, lots of these wines showed elegance and complexity.

2001 Bodegas Hermanos Peciña Rioja Señorío de P. Peciña Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

Pale ruby color. I get a nice mix of wild red berries, dusty earth, wet leaves. Fresh acidity on the palate, this has a tart approach (complemented by tangy red berry fruit), but the wine shows plenty of dusty tannins. An interesting blend of earth, tobacco and pickling spices, a crisp and refreshing finish. Expressive, refreshing, showing nicely but some cellar potential for sure. (88 points)

2001 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

Deep nose of rich plums and earth, with time all sorts of spicy tobacco and floral notes come out with a real sense of elegance. On the palate the tannins are firm and the acid is ravenous. Almost abrasive at first but settles down and shows all sorts of elegance. Fleshy red cherries, plums, some currant jam notes, full of dusty earth, tobacco and spiced coffee complexity. Opens up with air and develops all sorts of nuanced spice and deep floral tones. Plenty of time to go in the cellar, so I’ll hold onto my sole bottle for four or five years. (92 points)

2001 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Ardanza Reserva Especial - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

Smooth and ripe on the nose, rich, velvety waves of cherries, rose petals and vanilla. Juicy with smooth yet structured tannins, the bing cherry, red apple and tangerine fruit maintains a fresh vibe. I get lots of peppercorns and tobacco and an earthy-vanilla finish. More “hedonistic” than the first two wines, but this is, at heart, a bright and vibrant wine. (91 points)

2001 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

Smells of red apples, jammy cherries along with some sweet violets, vanilla and earth. Tart acid bounces off firm tannins, this was closed at first but evolves significantly. Lots of tobacco, campsite, wet leaves, oak shavings, vanilla, dried flowers and baking spices. Complex waves of red fruit flow in. Despite the boldness the elegance underneath comes out with air. No rush at all on this one. (91 points)

2001 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Viña Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

Initially this wine and the Imperial were quite shut down and it was difficult to tell them apart. But this opens to show a bit more red fruit, but still lots of dark earth and violets. Fleshy berries on the palate with tangy acid and some real firmness to the palate. Complex earthy and smoky elements come out, but this wine needs a whole lot of air and/or cellar time to really show its stuff. (90 points)

2001 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

Takes more time to open up, but by the end of the night this was in stellar shape. Deep aromas of plums, currants, earth, roses and violets, smoky earth. Bright acidity, great structure, compact at first but smooths out and opens up beautifully. Juicy red currants and red apple fruit is laced with tobacco, olive, earth, roasted coffee, vanilla and violets. Really starts rocking after a few hours and some heavy swirling. I’d love to taste this again in eight or ten years. (93 points)

2001 Faustino Rioja I Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

Beautifully fruity aromas (juicy black and red cherries) along with tobacco and white pepper. Refined but structured tannins, medium acid, the wine is quite velvety and silky despite the firmness. Juicy raspberry and cherry fruit, which tastes pure and bright, with an impressive complexity of smoke, cedar, potting soil, dried rose and spice potpourri elements. A rich style but so much besides instant gratification going on here. (92 points)

2001 Marqués de Riscal Rioja Baron de Chirel Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

Much darker color. Initially a bit musty on the nose (“like dune sand and library dust” – I’m not sure either but that’s what I have written down). Shifts to a rich, dark fruit profile with lots of bay leaf and chewing tobacco. Firm grip on the palate, medium acid, the currant and dark plum fruit is rich and smoky. I was pulling out all sorts of interesting but quirky elements of tree bark, anise, animal hide and campsite. Finishes firm and sooty. This wine has a significant percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, which really makes it stand out against the other wines in the tasting and offered an interesting comparison. One to revisit in five or six years. (90 points)