Wine across America

I can’t believe it’s July. This summer is speeding past, but I’m making plans to take advantage of the weather and time with friends and family. I wish you all a great summer break, wherever and whenever you find it. And as the Fourth of July approaches, it’s a good time to highlight some diverse wines from all across America.

Long-time readers know I’m a big Virginia wine fan, and recently wrote about the Governor’s Cup winners. I’m back with a producer I’ve talked about before, and will do again, because they’re great: Stinson Vineyards. They make some Virginia gems and are not afraid to experiment, from Tannat rosé to skin-ferment Rkatsiteli, I find anything with their label worth buying.

From sea to shining sea on the West Coast, I have some delightfully zippy and coastal Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Fort Ross Seaview Winery that brings serious value to the table. And Fiddlehead Cellars has two seriously complex summer-friendly wines from the Central Coast.

Napa’s Newton comes out swinging with some heavy hitters. Their unfiltered Chardonnay is a regional classic. And the single vineyard Cabernets do an incredible job of showcasing the diversity of Napa regions through their different properties. Taken together, these wines represent a celebration of Napa Cabernet and the varied, exquisite sites where it thrives. The 2019 and 2018 vintages are both singing, and these elegant Cabs would make great gifts or cellar stockers.

From the sun-roasted, high elevation Sonoran Desert comes Aridus, an Arizona-based winery that puts out solid Southwest wines at very reasonable prices. I’m a huge fan of Arizona wines, and this producer offers a nice intro into the state’s industry.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

California

2022 Fiddlehead Cellars Pinot Noir Pink Fiddle Fiddlestix Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $32
Deep watermelon color. Ripe and vibrant on the nose with white peaches, red apples, watermelon, with fresh, floral tones of lilies, grassy meadow, crushed shells and white pepper. The palate shows a creamy depth of texture and lip-smacking acidity. Beautiful flavors of watermelon, orange slices, white cherry and peach. The non-fruit nuances are great – minerals and stones, rushing mountain stream, with notes of fennel, hay, white pepper, dried flowers. A beautifully complex and focused single-vineyard Pinot Noir pink that offers deliciousness and a unique vibe. (91 points)

2022 Fiddlehead Cellars Sauvignon Blanc La Presa Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Los Olivos District
SRP: $32
Pale lemon color. So juicy on the nose, with guava, white peach, and papaya, along with fresh lime zest, sliced flower stems, wild green onion, chalk dust. The palate is so crunchy and fresh, a bright appeal but a pleasantly creamy texture adds to the experience, with flavors of yellow apples, papaya, and white peach. It has these racy undertones of chalk dust, minerals, saline, and plenty of perfume and nuanced white pepper and green herbs. Lively and complex, this is a gem of a Sauv Blanc from a special site (La Presa Vineyard). Stainless steel, no maloactic fermentation. (92+ points)

2022 Ancient Peaks Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Santa Margarita Ranch
SRP: $18
Light yellow color. Aromatically, this pops with flavors of nectarine, guava, and white peach, with a big dose of tropical flowers, dandelion, hints of honey and sliced cucumber – love it. In the mouth, this wine has delightful texture, rich but balanced with moderate acidity, and juicy flavors of cantaloupe, guava, and orange peel. Nuances of yellow and white flowers, some honey, and salty, flinty notes on the finish. For summer outdoor gatherings, this would be perfect. Serious value alert in this dynamic, balanced Paso Sauvignon Blanc. (90 points)

2021 Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California
SRP: $13
Light yellow color. Peachy keen on the nose with guava and banana, with tropical flowers, orange marmalade, some chalky tones. The palate is medium-bodied and creamy with moderate acidity and a fun, summery feel. Creamy and fruity with peaches, guava, and lime zest, mixed with yellow flowers and honey. A fun, crowd-pleasing Sauv Blanc that has a lot of personality and complexity for the price. (86 points)

2021 Newton Chardonnay Unfiltered - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Unabashed yellow color. The nose sports richer tones of honeycomb, ginger snap, whipped honey, with brighter tones of white flowers and dandelions, along with limes, lemon curd, and yellow apple fruit. Deep texture on the palate with racy acidity and a pretty display of yellow apples, golden pears, drizzled with limes. There are a lot of chalky, salty vines in here, and the wine maintains this clear presence throughout, with notes of mountain stream and minerals that accent the honey and nougat nuances. Delicious, balanced, beautiful. Barrel-fermented and aged 10 months in 25% new French oak. (92 points)

N.V. Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Simply Cutrer - USA, California
SRP: $20 – 4/250ml cans
Light yellow color. A lively nose of pineapples, lemons, orange peel, bright and sweet tropical fruits, with notes of celery seed, honey, and yellow flowers. The palate has medium acidity and a nice creaminess with a steely, crisp appeal. Crushable, medium-bodied with flavors of lemon, green and yellow apples, and pineapple. Notes of crushed sweet tarts and chalk add a nice kick. Fresh, enjoyable vibes in this canned Chardonnay that would be a good call for summer camping or outdoor enjoyment. (87 points)

2021 Fort Ross Winery Chardonnay Sea Slopes - USA, California, Sonoma County, Fort Ross - Seaview
SRP: $30
Deep yellow color. The aromas show a pleasantly balanced blend between richer tones (honey, nougat, apricot, ginger, almond) with brighter ones (white flowers, sea salt, crushed limestone). The palate shows rich texture and racy acidity, making for a juicy but lip-smacking Chard with flavors of apricot and yellow apple. Notes of chalk, flint, almond shell, ginger snaps, and honey add complexity. Rich but nuanced, this would please many a Chardonnay-loving palate. Aged eight months in neutral French oak. (90 points)

2021 Fort Ross Winery Pinot Noir Sea Slopes - USA, California, Sonoma County, Fort Ross - Seaview
SRP: $35
Medium ruby color. Such a fresh, floral nose with tangy red plums, wild raspberries, bright strawberries, along with complex notes of rhubarb, rose petals, deep earth, violets. The palate shows moderate but chewy tannins and vibrant acidity, which makes for a lovely, balanced wine, with flavors of zesty cranberry relish and juicy black cherries. There are a host of savory but vibrant accents in this wine (rhubarb, spiced tea, anise). Fun and fresh but serious complexity and balance, not to mention value. Aged nine months in 20% new French oak. (91 points)

2018 Newton Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder - USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder
SRP: $210
Dark purple color. A deep core of blackberries, currants, wild blueberries on the nose, along with rich soil, graphite, charcoal, cedar, some anise and chewing tobacco – a lot to go through and enjoy. Full and grippy but the acidity is delightfully tangy and keeps this wine so energetic. A dark mix of tangy blackberries, currants, and blueberries, along with complex notes of pencil shavings, coffee grounds, mocha, black tea, and there are complex notes of rocks and minerals to enjoy. A long life ahead of this one. All Cab, aged 18 months in 65% new French oak. (93 points)

2018 Newton Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain District - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $210
Beautifully deep purple. The nose has such a lovely mix of fresh/tangy with deeper, darker elements – juicy black cherries, roasted figs, tangy wild blueberries, the fruit blends so well with graphite, anise, tar, stony, herbal vibes. A solid frame of grippy tannins with refined edges, balanced wonderfully with fresh acidity. The black cherry and tangy currant fruit is lively and focused, and laced with a host of complex earthy, stony elements – minerals, graphite, smashed rocks, with savory black pepper and mushroom glaze notes. Complex and beautiful, this needs a serious decant or to be forgotten in the cellar for a while to show its full potential. All Cabernet, aged 18 months in 65% new French oak. (95 points)

2018 Newton Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville - USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
SRP: $210
Lush, dark purple. On the nose, I get a deep compote of blueberries, plum sauce, tart black currants, mixed with loamy earth, a lot of stony and mineral essence, with dried violets, iron, tobacco, spiced black tea and clove – wow, give this serious swirling or a decant. Grippy but suave on the palate, lovely balance between well-build tannins and lively acidity. Dark and tangy, with pure fruit (black cherry, tart currant, plums, blueberries), blended expertly with pepper, anise, nuanced herbal vibes, spiced tea, graphite and minerals. Deep but effortless feel, and the finish is so long and lovely. This has so much more to show in a decade, but what a beaut. 100% Cab, aged 18 months in 65% new French oak. (95 points)

2019 Newton The Puzzle - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $135

Deep purple color. The aromas show a rich tapestry of figs, plum compote, black cherries, along with savory tones of spiced tea, black pepper, anise, with cocoa and some roasted herb tones – really needs swirling or a decant to get these beautiful tones going. The palate is full but fresh with solid but supple tannins and really fresh acidity. The fruit is a mix of crunchy black currant, roasted figs, and juicy plums, gorgeous concentration, with nuances of black tea, menthol, graphite, flinty mineral tones. This is a long ager for sure, but has such freshness that it makes it enjoyable young as well. Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% Cab Franc, 7% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, and 1% Grenache, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (94 points)

Arizona

2019 Aridus Viognier - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $40
Rich yellow color. Aromatically tropical but with these floral, succulent accents: pineapple, peaches, lemon curd, with notes of tropical flowers, honey, graham cracker and some slight white pepper and sea salt. So fun on the palate, a creamy texture with a waxy appeal, but it stays lively with medium acidity. Flavors of orange marmalade, yellow pears, and lemon cake mix with notes of orange blossom, dandelion, with honey and some white tea. This wine was fermented and aged 14 months in sandstone jars (which is very interesting). A unique and clear expression of Arizona Viognier that is getting more expressive with age. (90 points)

2019 Aridus Tempranillo - USA, Arizona
SRP: $50
Vibrant plum color. Lovely aromas of cranberry sauce, ripe black and red cherries, along with a cool mix of savory tones, like tar, pepper, potpourri, creosote. The palate shows smooth tannins and medium acidity, which supports a mix of gushing black cherry and plum fruit, ripe but nuanced. There are a lot of interesting spicy, meaty, peppery tones, with tar, smoky earth, dried roses. A really fun and accessible style, super juicy and easy-drinking but it sports solid complexity as well. Delicious example of AZ Tempranillo. Includes 14% Graciano, aged 28 months in oak. (90 points)

2019 Aridus Syrah - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $60
Medium purple color. The nose explodes with roasted figs, currant jam, cherry jam, along with complex notes of smoky earth, sage, pepper, clove, dried rose petals, eucalyptus. On the palate, this is suave and ripe with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Roasted plums and figs mix with tangy cherries, and the fruit is mixed with nuances of white pepper, warm clay, desert herbs, and black pepper. I’ve grilled steak in the Arizona desert with a different vintage of this wine, and I highly recommend it, or wherever you’re grilling. 100% Syrah, aged 30 months in oak. (90 points)

Virginia

2022 Stinson Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $25
Medium yellow color. Smells like a burst of guava and white peach, drizzled with lime, topped in sudsy floral brightness, white pepper, fresh basil and sliced cucumber. The palate shows waves of textural depth and pristine acid, with flinty mineral tones. Creamy yellow apples mixed with crunchy green pears and lime, and the floral, herbal, and saline complexity sings. A consistently exciting and clear Virginia Sauvignon Blanc, and this vintage keeps that going. Virginia doesn’t have value? This wine says otherwise. Fermented in a mix of concrete and stainless steel. (91 points)

2022 Stinson Vineyards Tannat Rosé - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $23
Ripe watermelon color. The wine smells of bright red fruits and floral perfume, with red apple and wild raspberry, along with rose petals, floral perfume, and notes of hay, celery seed, sea salt, spicy white pepper. Texturally, this is plush but bright, with juicy texture and a streak of minerals. Flavors of white cherry, crunchy red apple, and watermelon blend well with mint, spiced white tea, and flowers, chalk dust. Classic flavors and feel. A reliably delicious Virginia rosé that continues the streak of excellence. (90 points)

2019 Stinson Vineyards Meritage - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $41Deep ruby color. The palate is a ripe and tangy compote of raspberries, wild blueberries, black cherries, with menthol, earth, clove, anise, all sorts of cool smoky, tar, spicy, violet vibes. Upon sipping, this wine is ripe but nuanced with solid structure, fine-edged tannins, and fresh acidity – each sip is lip-smacking. The black cherry and currant fruit is mixed with spiced cranberry relish, roasted chestnut, dusty earth, tobacco, warm clay – lots of cool things to parse through. A Virginia Meritage worth seeking out for sure: 38% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot, 17% Petit Verdot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Explore Virginia through some of its best wines

 

Virginia is for lovers, they say. And I’m a total Virginia lover. Growing up as a kid on the Jersey Shore, with family connections in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Virginia was always a wild, exciting place to visit. We’d climb mountains, scramble on rocks, jump off waterfalls, catch bass, fend off ticks and ground wasps.

Later in life, when I fell in love with wine and moved to the DC region, I instinctively went to Virginia looking for wines and adventure. I’ve enjoyed following the region’s growth and evolution over these past 15 years. And I’ve been lucky enough to explore Virginia through long drives, hikes, climbs, camping trips, and other adventures.

When it comes to wineries, it should be obvious to anyone who has been paying attention that Virginia is home to some world-class producers. The scene is dynamic, with new winemakers or shifting teams making waves, while to the older wineries who helped establish this wine region are sticking around and continuing their legacy.

I recently tasted through the big winners at the Virginia Governor’s Cup, something I’ve been doing for a decade now. This prestigious competition has been judged people I respect, including some friends of mine, and I always find the top 12 provide a good overview of what’s currently up in the Virginia wine scene. This year (with more than 600 wines submitted) was no different, as the selections are really nice.

But there’s also a glaring trend worth pointing out – Petit Verdot taking charge. I’ve been stoked on Virginia Petit Verdot for many years. More and more, Virginia winemakers are making varietal wines from this traditional blending grape. And I’m a fan of this trend. The best Virginia Petit Verdots have this racy acidity that helps balance the grippy tannins. I do love how a grape like Merlot and Malbec can soften and add some padding to Petit Verdot’s sharp edges, but when done right, this grape shines on its own. Like the rare background band member that can, at the right place and time, break out into an awesome solo career.

Petit Manseng is another grape I love in Virginia, and have written about for many years. This grape does so well in the Commonwealth, and can be made in such a diversity of styles. We also have some a delicious Italian white variety that has found a home in which to thrive here in Virginia. And Virginia Meritage? Seriously worth checking out.

If you haven’t yet explored Virginia wines, the ones in this report will give you some good guideposts. But it’s beautiful country out there, and the best way to dig in is to visit. These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

American Wines from Coast to Coast

With Thanksgiving coming up, I wanted to share some American wines I think would fit well with any seasonal fare you and your friends and family may be serving. These represent a drop in the bucket of the diversity in regions, of course, but I’d be stoked to share these wines with my family and friends this week.

I haven’t (yet) made a wine trip to Long Island’s North Fork – but that’s long overdue. I’m a long-time East Coast wine fan, and it’s been awesome to see the growth in regions like Virginia, Maryland, and others since I started paying attention about 15 years ago. Recently, I received a six-pack of wines from Long Island’s North Fork that made me think: I’ve gotta get out there already!

And speaking of Virginia: Early Mountain. I love this place and their wines – just such reliably exciting, delicious, honest Virginia expressions. Their Petit Manseng rocks, and is worth checking out if you don’t have much experience with this grape and worth checking out even more if you do. Their reds offer a lot of juicy, spicy, Virginia goodness as well. And the value in here is really something. Very much worth a visit if you’re ever passing through the region.

Troon shouldn’t be a new name to long-time readers, as I’ve been stoked on this Oregon producer’s wines for years. This biodynamic outfit from Southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley is always experimenting with exciting blends and styles. But two of their classic reds in this report make for great cold weather sipping.

And, of course, California is represented here. FEL delivers again with two delightful Savoy Vineyard wines from Anderson Valley that are a great choice for Pinot and Chard-lovers.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 FEL Chardonnay Savoy Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $52
Medium yellow color. A deep but lively aromatic blend of yellow apples, tart lemons, with nougat and almond, cinnamon crumb cake, and notes of ginger and chalk dust, too. The palate shows crisp acidity and a creamy mouthfeel, with flavors of lemon bars and yellow apples and pears. The complexities in here are exceptional: almond cake, honey, yellow flowers, cinnamon, shaved ginger, with an underlying mineral essence. Gorgeous depth and texture, this should age wonderfully. 13.8% alcohol, this wine is aged 16 months on the lees in 35% new oak. (93 points)

2020 FEL Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $75
Vibrant cherry color. The nose is lovely, with these waves of tangy raspberries, strawberries, with rose petals, clay pot, tobacco, earthy-savory tones, too – there’s a lot to unpack in here. Warm and smooth on the palate with structured tannins and vibrant acidity. Red cherries, tangy strawberries, juicy raspberries, the fruit is laced with tones of floral perfume, pepper, clove, clay and potting soil elements. Suave, silky, crisp, this is ready to drink but will open up nicely over the coming years. 13.9% alcohol, aged 16 months in 24% new French oak. (93 points)

N.V. Sparkling Pointe Brut Nature - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $42
Light gold color. I like the chalky, salty, flinty aromas (really catches the oceanic vibes of Long Island) with some honey and yellow flowers, and lemon and green apple fruit. Juicy yellow apple and lime fruit on the palate, supported with brisk acidity and some nuanced baguette tones. Chalky, spritely and dry, with fresh cut floral stems, dandelion and some spiced white tea. Fun, fresh, delicious blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier from this prolific sparkling wine producer. (88 points)

2020 Peconic Bay Vineyards Riesling - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $28
Bright yellow color. Lovely aromatic display here, with an infusion of juicy peaches and limes, chalk dust and saline, sugar cane, and fresh new tennis balls (in a good way!). Racy acidity frames the palate nicely, balanced sugar throughout, with big chunks of fresh pineapples, drizzled with lime. The chalk dust, crushed sea shells and minerals linger long on the finish. Racy, refreshing and tasty. (90 points)

2021 Lieb Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Bridge Lane - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $16
Medium straw color. Bright and floral on the nose, with tangy limes and juicy white peaches, topped in white flowers, mint and celery seed tones. Zippy, crisp and floral on the nose, with some pleasant creaminess and flavors of white peaches, pineapple and limes. Flinty, chalky tones, with a creamy but vibrant finish. Fun, fresh, a lot of personality for the price here. Really solid value. (87 points)

2021 Macari Vineyards Horses - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $29
Bright fizzy raspberry color. Spritely and tangy on the palate, with crunchy red apples, wild raspberries, with notes of white pepper, rose hips and bay leaf. Dusty texture, very zesty, this has a crunchy feel with tangy red apples and cranberry fruit. Fun and fresh with some cool spicy, herbal tones. A fun accompaniment to a wide variety of foods for sure. A crown cap Cabernet Franc sparkler, destemmed, it spends two days on the skins and is disgorged after five months. (88 points)

2019 Pellegrini Vineyards Chardonnay Stainless Steel - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $23
Pale lemon color. A tangy and brisk style on the nose with lemons and green apples, lemon verbena, seashells, some dandelion and daisy tones. Floral and tangy on the palate with citrus and green apple fruits on a crunchy, vibrant frame. Flinty, oceanic goodness abounds in this seafood-friendly style Chardonnay. (88 points)

2019 Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard Pink Satin - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $34
Pale salmon color. Nose pops with white cherries and strawberries, along with notes of honeysuckle, mint and orange blossom. Crisp acidity, moderate but balanced sugar adds some creaminess and sweetness, but it stays refreshing. Notes of tangy strawberries and juicy cherries, with some nice tea, white pepper and floral perfume tones. A nice salty kick on the finish as well. Melot, Cab Franc and Cab Sauv. (86 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Syrah - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Dark purple color. The nose kicks off with a great burst of smoky, beefy, peppery goodness, with roasted red pepper and mesquite, grille steak, over tangy blueberries and black cherry fruit. The palate shows nice grip with smooth tannic edges and delightfully fresh acidity and tangy plums, blueberries and black cherry fruit. The complex notes of roasted red pepper, soy, glazed mushrooms, gravelly earth and clove. Age-worthy but fresh, this has a lot of deliciousness and savory goodness packed in here, especially for the price. (92 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Tannat - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. The nose of tart black currants and blackberries is great, laced with complexities of smashed rocks, anise, tar, pencil shavings, dried violet petals. The palate is grippy but suave with tangy acidity and a nice core of tar blueberries and currants. Elements of smoky earth, charcoal, anise, coffee grounds and violets add complexity. The notes of savory broth and mushroom need years to unravel, and this will age gloriously for quite some time. Deep, tangy, balanced, spicy – a ton to love. (92 points)

2020 Early Mountain Vineyards Petit Manseng - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $30
Rich gold color. The nose bursts with personality, showing deep apricot, orange marmalade, candied lemon peel, with notes of honey, graham cracker, white flowers, mint leaves and some salty tones. The palate shows classic Petit Manseng vibes with racy acidity, lip-smacking goodness, and rich, waxy texture, and the balance is just lovely. Nuanced throughout, with a complex mix of honey, hay, almond, yellow flowers. Exciting, delicious stuff that I’d love to taste in three to five years. Includes 4% Pinot Gris and 3% Chardonnay. (90 points)

2021 Early Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Franc Shenandoah Valley - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $30
Medium ruby color. Loving the spicy aromatic kick here, with rose hips, black and white pepper, forest floor, along with a display of fresh raspberries, red apple and black cherry fruit. The palate is so fresh but deeply textured, with dusty tannins and a bright core of black cherries and wild raspberries. Lovely earthy tones, red clay, and notes of sage, white pepper, some black olive. Delightfully fresh appeal but a lot of complexity and depth as well. This should age nicely for a few years. If you haven’t tried Shenandoah Cab Franc, this is a great intro and value. (91 points)

2021 Early Mountain Vineyards Foothills - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $27
Deep ruby color. Inviting and juicy on the nose, with raspberries, red plums, topped in hefty amounts of roses, pepper, violets, leather and clove. The palate is silky and zippy with tangy red and black cherry fruit, juicy strawberries, the fruit is just delish. Notes of sage, rose petals, mint, spiced tea, it adds a lovely autumnal complexity. So darn fun. A fascinating blend of 28% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Petit Verdot, 8% Tanat, 8% Petit Manseng and 5% Cabernet Franc. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Enjoying the Wilderness and White Wines of Virginia

Remote Shenandoah beauty.

Virginia is on my mind this week. I had a great solo winter hike and scramble in Shenandoah National Park, and I recently tasted through some beautiful Virginia wines.

Long-time readers have heard me rave about Virginia wines for many years, and it’s been interesting to see how the perception of Virginia wine has improved, in other wine media and the public at large. The landscape has shifted so much, and there’s way more out there than some zippy Cab Francs and rich Viogniers.

The Virginia Governor’s Cup Awards each year have been an exciting way to promote the state’s wines, and next month we’ll know the 12 winners of 2022. I think we could likely see some of the producers featured in this report on that list. I love some Bordeaux blends, Cab Francs, and have a soft spot for VA Petit Verdot, but this report is all white wines (and a sparkler). The diversity of styles and flavors in just this small gathering of wines really speaks to Virginia’s strengths.

And, hey, if you’re looking to explore wines from the commonwealth, Valentine’s Day coming up. Virginia is for (wine)lovers. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Williamsburg Winery Chardonnay Stainless Steel Fermented – USA, Virginia
$20
Light yellow color. The nose shows lemons and white peach along with white flowers, celery seed and lemon verbena. The palate is light and zesty, bright and crisp, with lemons and kiwi fruit. I like the affirming tones of mint, white pepper and sage that add complexity to this brisk style. A tough year, but this wine offers a lot of fun and a nice take on this style. (87 points)

2019 Williamsburg Winery Chardonnay Limited Release Monticello – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$32
Medium yellow color. The nose is lovely, with honey, white tea and cinnamon crumb cake, over top of yellow pears and lemon curds, yellow flowers. The palate shows crisp acidity and a creamy texture, with yellow apples and lemons. Nuances of gingerbread, honey, graham cracker, balanced out by notes of sea salt, white tea and minerals. Nice depth of texture, but solid balance. (88 points)

2017 Linden Chardonnay Village – USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia
$32
Rich yellow color. Aromas of lemon crème, yellow apples, with chalk dust, sea salt, with some floral perfume. The palate shows nice depth but vibrant acidity, and the balance is really nice. Lemons, kiwi and yellow apples mix with honey, almond shell and white flowers. Bright, juicy, salty, pure and vibrant. Classic Virginia Chardonnay. Mostly declassified Hardscrabble grapes, no maloactic fermentation, aged 10 months on the lees in old French oak barrels. (90 points)

2018 Michael Shaps Petit Manseng – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$35
Rich orange color. The nose is just gorgeous, with apricots and orange marmalade, topped in honey, graham cracker crumbs and zesty, salty vibes. The palate is beautifully textured and creamy, backed up with racy acidity, and that nervy, live-wire balance is something that this wine excels at. Lemon drops and orange marmalade fruit blend well with minerals, chalk dust, tones of honey comb and candles. Unique, beautiful stuff that will age wonderfully. (91 points)

2018 King Family Vineyards Viognier Small Batch Series – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$35
Medium orange color. The nose has a lot on offer, with lemons and yellow apples mixing in with green olives, brine, clover and honey. Creamy texture on the palate, this also sports briny acidity, it’s rich and tropical but focused throughout. Lemons and orange peel, juicy yellow apples, the fruit is laced with flowers and green olives. Beautiful, fresh, has a natty but pristine vibe and a creamy yet lip-smacking finish. This skin-fermented Viognier is equally interesting and delicious. (91 points)

2019 Stinson Vineyards Rkatsiteli Wildkat – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$29
Deep orange color. The aromas boast elements of lemon, papaya, along with ginger anf precise notes of flowers and talc. Medium-bodied with a salty, racy, briny appeal. Clean and precise with lemon and quince, racy yet deep with complexities of sea salt, white pepper and oregano. White tea, waxy, creamy elements as well. Super fun and nerdy but also straightforward in its deliciousness. Georgian style skin-fermented Rkatsiteli from Virginia – I’m stoked this wine exists. (90 points)

Sparkling and dessert wines

2018 Linden Petit Manseng Demi-Sec – USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia
$26
Medium gold color. Aromas of apricots and golden apples, topped in candle wax, honey, candied pecans and daisies. Gorgeous acidity on the palate, keeps it pristine and fresh against the creamy texture and rich, sweet fruit (orange, pineapple, apricots, glazed apples). Zesty, chalky tones are framed well against notes of honey and pineapple cake. Gorgeous depth but stays focused. Petit Manseng really is one of the best grapes for this style of wine, and Linden is a great producer, which adds up to one heck of an exceptional demi-sec wine. 20 g/l residual sugar. (92 points)

2015 Barboursville Vineyards Paxxito – USA, Virginia
$60
Deep orange color. The nose is so pretty, with orange marmalade, pineapple upside cake, with white and yellow flowers, almond, cinnamon, notes of dried nuts – just goes on and on. Gorgeous creaminess with honeyed, unctuous mouthfeel and the lively acidity is just perfect. The pineapple and mango fruit is laced with notes of nougat, gingerbread, honeyed white tea, some flinty/mineral elements underneath as well. This won the Governor’s Cup in 2021, and for good reason. Muscat Ottonel and Vidal Blanc grapes dried via the Passito method. Just an exquisite dessert wine that could fool a lot of people in a blind tasting, and likely win over new fans. Will age wonderfully for who knows how long. (92 points)

N.V. Valley Road Vineyards Joie – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$40
Bright watermelon color. Smells like red apple peels, sweet tarts, crunchy white cherries, rose petals and chalk dust. Crisp on the palate with light bubbles and flavors of sweet red apples, raspberries, light and crunchy vibes. Notes of nettle, chalk, sweet tarts and talc. Fun, bright carbonized pink. (87 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

American Wines for the Fourth of July

Happy Fourth of July to all the American readers out there. As has grown to be my custom, I take this time to highlight some recent American wines that came across the sample pile. And I have a fun, diverse group today.

I’ve long been a fan (and something of an evangelist) for Arizona wines. I can’t help myself, I love it out there, and there are some really cool people making really fun wines. Aridus, based in one of my favorite areas of Cochise County, is a good intro into AZ wines, and are more widely available than most.

From Oregon, Applegate Valley’s biodynamic stalwart Troon Vineyards delivers three summery, spritzy, crushable wines. They’re always experimenting, and I respect that.

And, of course, California wines make appearances. Ashes & Diamonds 2020 pink is about as complex and impressive a California rosé I’ve come across in a long time. A case buy kind of wine. Howell Mountain Cabernet comes out to show why this appellation is so excellent, and a few other legit Cab-based wines round out the mix.

Lastly, from Virginia, Monticello-based producer Stinson continues to deliver with their Tannat-based pink, and a Merlot and Meritage definitely worth checking out if you’re interested in Virginia wines.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Delicious Wines from Virginia's Monticello

Considering today is Independence Day in the United States, I thought it fitting to highlight some recent samples from the Commonwealth of Virginia.

I’ve been a big fan and follower of Virginia wine since I moved to Washington, DC, about 12 years ago. I’ve had the privilege to taste many wines from all over the Commonwealth, but this week I’m highlighting wines from the Monticello AVA. Carrying on Thomas Jefferson’s wine vision for this region, some 33 wineries call this area home. The region is centered around Charlottesville, stretching toward the gorgeous Blue Ridge Mountains. If you’re ever travelling in the Mid-Atlantic (one can dream of post-pandemic wines, can’t one?) and looking for a wine trail adventure, this is a great place to start.

Stinson Vineyards makes two super-reliable pink wines from Tannat and Mourvedre. I’ve been tasting these wines for years now, and Rachel Stinson’s 2019s are true to form – some of my favorite rosés from the Commonwealth. The three red blends stem from a webinar I attended on the French influence in Virginia wine, curated by a great Virginia wine writer and ambassador, Frank Morgan. Matthieu Finot of King Family, Damien Blanchon of Afton Mountain, and Benoit Pineau of Pollak are all Frenchmen doing exciting things in Virginia, and the state’s wine industry is lucky to have them.

These wines were all received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Stinson Vineyards Tannat Rosé – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $21
Light pink color. Aromas of peach, cantaloupe rind, white cherries, with chalk, sliced cucumber, white flowers and rose petals. Zippy and salty on the palate with punchy, tangy lemons, apricot, white peaches, Complex, pretty notes of mint, English cucumbers, chalk dust, lemon pith. Tangy, fresh finish with notes of talc, slate and minerals. Another great vintage of a perennially solid pink. (90 points)

2019 Stinson Vineyards Mourvèdre Rosé – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $21
Medium strawberry color. Bouncy, boastful aromas of white peach, orange peel, with white and yellow flowers, white pepper, mint, sea salt – so inviting. Plump texture, delightful presence on the palate, with zippy acidity. Crisp but juicy fruit (yellow plums, white cherries, strawberries) with notes of mint, white pepper, sliced yellow bell pepper, white tea. There’s this rocky, mineral presence underneath. A phenomenal rosé at a crazy price. (91 points)

2017 Afton Mountain Vineyards Tradition – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $50
Medium purple color. The nose shows tart blueberries, black currants, with graphite, smoky earth, eucalyptus and mint chocolate chips. Crisp on the palate with pleasantly bright acidity, moderate tannins, this is a vibrant, fresh style with tart currants and wild blueberries. Notes of graphite, cocoa, mesquite, roasted chestnut. A vibrant and exciting blend of 41% Merlot, 37% Petit Verdot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged two years in 25% new French oak. (90 points)

2017 Pollak Vineyards Meritage ­ USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $40
Light purple color. Aromas show tart red and black currants, mixed with leather, cedar, menthol, and inviting notes of incense sticks and pepper. Full-bodied, medium acidity, smooth tannins, integrated nicely. Spicy red plum and cherry fruit, a zippy feel with notes of eucalyptus, mint, leather, roasted red pepper, roasted chestnut. Great to go now, but will hold well for a few years, too. 60% Cabernet Franc, 24% Merlot, 16% Petit Verdot. (87 points)

2017 King Family Vineyards Mountain Plains – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $70
Medium purple color. Beautiful aromas of tangy cherries, plums, red and black currants, laced with complex notes of roasted herbs, clove, leather, vanilla and cocoa. Fresh and focused on the palate, this is well-built and solid with nice grip, but no harshness – the balance is lovely. Tangy currants, crunch plums, juicy wild cherries – generous fruit yet really fresh. Mixed with tobacco leaf, tilled soil, pine needles, clove, with integrated cocoa and cedar. Wow, this is expert Virginia Meritage that deserves a solid sleep in the cellar or a decant and a grilled steak. 43% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Franc, 20% Petit Verdot, aged in new French oak. (91 points)

2017 Stinson Vineyards Tannat – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $36
Deep purple color. Aromas show deep currants and black cherries, with violets, tar, potting soil and graphite notes. Full-bodied with solid grip and moderate acidity – this is balanced really well. Tart black currants, roasted figs, plum, the fruit is juicy and tangy and laced with underlying graphite, tar, mineral, pine and cedar. The deep core of fruit blends so well with these earth, floral, spicy undertones. I’d love to see this in five years. All Tannat aged 27 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Virginia Governor's Cup Winners Wow Again

I love Virginia wines, and not just because a lot of Virginia wine country is close to my home in Washington, DC. It’s been difficult to keep up, however, with Virginia wines, as more and more producers keep popping up, year after year.

For the past seven years or so, I’ve enjoyed sampling some of the Commonwealth’s best wines through the Governor’s Cup Case. For the 2019 Governor’s Cup competition, wineries submitted more than 500 entries. An esteemed group of wine experts blind-tasted their way through them all, narrowing the winners down to 12.

This year features some well-known producers, and some that I was not as familiar with. Stalwarts like Horton and Barboursville make an appearance, as does King Family, whose wines frequently feature in the winning dozen. And Early Mountain’s Eluvium blend wows again.

But winemaker Michael Shaps really ran away with this in the 2019 Governor’s Cup. He makes wine in Burgundy (under the Maison Shaps label), and some excellent Virginia wines under the Michael Shaps Wineworks moniker, three of which made it into this case. He also works as a consulting winemaker for more than a dozen Virginia wineries. Two of those wines also made it into this case.

These wines were received as part of an online tasting organized by my friend and Virginia wine whiz Frank Morgan. They were tasted sighted.

2017 Barboursville Vineyards Vermentino Reserve - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello

$23

Light yellow color. So fresh with its aromatic display of wet rocks, mountain stream, crushed shells, wild green herbs, honeysuckle, over lime and crunchy apricot fruit. Vibrant, gorgeous acidity on the palate meets a waxy mouthfeel, and the balance is superb. Juicy lime, apricot and papaya fruit blends well with river rocks, fresh rain, wet slate elements, and I get these cool notes of mint, verbena and honeysuckle. I’ve loved this wine before in other vintages, but this one is extra special. Gorgeous stuff, and great value. (91 points)

2016 Michael Shaps Petit Manseng - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello

$30

Almost neon yellow color. These aromas are hedonistic as hell, with rich nougat, almond butter, orange marmalade, lemon cake, graham cracker and candied ginger. Plump texture on the palate, this is bold and waxy but sports lively acidity. Hard-punching fruit (baked apple, glazed pear, candied orange), and mixed with flavors of cinnamon cake, peanut brittle, orange creamsicle, honey and graham cracker. There are some salty, white tea notes. Still a lively wine, but I feel some of the nuances of the fruit are masked by oak. (88 points)

2016 Horton Vineyards Petit Manseng - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Orange County

$25

Rich gold color. A bright and attractive nose of sea salt, white tea, waxy-oily tones and honey, on top of lemon curd and kiwi fruit. Rich textural depth on the palate, but ripping acidity (which I love), and the balance is on point. Tropical, a burst of lime, kiwi, green melon, but there’s a rush of underlying chalk dust, minerals, and sea salt that keeps it racy, lively, complex. A well-deserved spot on among the Governor’s Cup winners. (90 points)

2016 Early Mountain Vineyards Eluvium - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County

$35

Deep purple color. A dark aromatic core of blackberry and black cherry, with loads of pepper, anise, magic marker, a saucy and spicy nose. Sturdy and well-built, with solid tannic grip but moderate acidity, set against a core of blackberry and currant fruit. Lots of smoky, earthy, tar notes, with anise, black pepper glaze, accented with coffee and vanilla elements. This needs three years or so to show it’s best, but with air and time, it has a lot to show. Very good stuff again from Early Mountain. Merlot and Petit Verdot. (91 points)

2015 Glen Manor Vineyards Cabernet Franc - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley

$34

Medium purple color. Smells lively and fresh, with black cherries, wild blueberries, along with plenty of mesquite, barbecue sauce, black pepper glaze, sweet violets and coffee. Medium/full-bodied with solid tannic grip, moderate acidity, this is pieced together nicely. Vibrant black cherries and blueberry fruit blends well with complex smoky, menthol, barbecue sauce and leather notes. A riper, darker style of Cab Franc, but very well done. Dark chocolate and coffee grounds elements are woven in well. This could really use four or five years, but it’s a beautiful Virginia Cabernet Franc. (90 points)

2016 King Family Vineyards Mountain Plains - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello

$70

Medium purple color. On the nose, there’s a solid core of currants, black cherries, red plums, with violets, sage, menthol, fallen leaves, cedar shavings. On the palate this wine shows solid grip but crisp, focused acidity. Crunchy currant fruit mixes well with complex elements of campfire smoke, grilled meat, violets, tobacco leaf, graphite. Notes of roasted coffee and vanilla are woven in expertly. This is really, really good, and deserves five years of time in the cellar to show its best potential. Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. (91 points)

2016 King Family Vineyards Meritage - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello

$75

Light purple color. Beautiful aromas of crushed raspberries, juicy black currants, and a complex host of tobacco leaf, sweet violets, mint, loamy earth, espresso and cedar. Medium/full-bodied, crisp acidity balances out the sturdy tannins nicely, and the freshness is gorgeous. Crushed black cherries, raspberries and currants, the fruit is laced with notes of racy minerals, graphite, smashed rocks. Tobacco, mushroom and fallen leaves add complexity, while cedar and coffee notes mix in well. This is beautiful stuff that will age for a decade easily. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. (91 points)

2015 Michael Shaps Tannat - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello

$35

Deep purple color. On the nose, a deep core of tart currant and black cherry fruit, mixed with lovely mesquite, incense, pepper, cocoa, tons going on but it needs a lot of air. Full but fresh on the palate, solid grip, this is young but balanced. Tangy black cherry and cassis mix with lots of complex barbecue, anise, pepper, grilled herbs, and dark chocolate notes. The freshness is really attractive, and the wine finishes with deep mineral and graphite elements. I’d love to see this with five to eight years of age on it. (90 points)

2015 Paradise Springs Meritage - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia

$49

Deep purple color. So peppery and leathery on the nose, with grilled steak and campfire smoke, mixed with blackberry compote. Fresh acidity frames the wine nicely, structured but smooth tannins, with velvety, suave currant and blackberry fruit. Significant oak signatures (chocolate chip, vanilla, espresso), but they’re woven in well with elements of tilled soil, graphite, leather, pepper and grilled steak. This could use a year or two to open up, or a good decant. Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. (88 points)

2016 Hamlet Vineyards Eltham - USA, Virginia

$27

Medium purple color. Smoky aromas of mesquite, grilled steak, coffee and anise, on top of tangy red and black currants. Medium-bodied, zippy and fresh acidity, structured tannins, but they have rounded edges and are integrated well. Crisp black cherries, crunchy plums and cranberry fruit, topped in pepper, soy, menthol, violets and leather. Fruity yet vibrant with integrated coffee and oak elements. Fresh but not simple, this is my first time tasting from this producer, and it’s a good introduction. 50/50 Merlot and Petit Verdot. (88 points)

2014 Upper Shirley Vineyards Zachariah Reserve - USA, Virginia

$40

Deep purple color. Deep and spicy nose with a dark core of blackberry and dark plum, mixed with tobacco, charcoal, magic marker. Full-bodied with solid tannic grip, medium acidity. The dark, crunchy currant and plum fruit is blended with smoky, beefy, menthol tones, violets, with coffee and cocoa tones. The oak signature is heavy, here. A bit intense, this could use some age, as it took a while to open up. Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Tannat. (86 points)

2016 Michael Shaps Raisin d'Etre - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello

$25/375ml

Deep orange color. Such bold, rich, inviting aromas, with guava, candied orange peel, lychee, glazed pears, roasted nuts. The texture on the palate is sweet and lush with gorgeous depth and vibrant, crisp acidity – the balance is superb. Honeyed pears, apricot, the fruit is mixed with graham cracker, peanut brittle, cinnamon crumb cake, but also these salted almond and crushed shell tones. Delicious, complex, harmonious, this can age a long time. Petit Manseng grapes dried in tobacco barns, this has 13% alcohol and 7% residual sugar. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Lots to Love in "DC's Wine Country" - Loudoun County, Virginia

Washington, DC, has become my adopted hometown. When I first moved here from New York about a dozen years ago, I spent one of my first weekend trips hiking around the Potomac River and tasting wines in the area around Leesburg, Virginia. 

The wines I tasted were hit-and-miss, but I fell in love with the area, and have been trying to keep up with the wine scene since. Loudoun is full of beautiful spots, and with more and more quality wines coming out of this region, there is plenty to see and taste.  “DC’s Wine Country” (yes, they’ve trademarked that) dates back to 1981, when Lew Parker planted his first grapes at Willowcroft Farm. Now, there are more than 40 wineries in the county.

During a recent online tasting coordinated by Virginia wine guru Frank Morgan, I tasted through several wines from this Northern Virginia region. While many of the wines and wineries were familiar to me before, this tasting reminded me that I need to get back to Loudoun more often — there’s still so much to explore.  Casanel comes through with a sparkling Chardonnay, and I learned they also make a sparkling Norton that I now must try. Walsh Family makes some really good stuff, and I highly recommend tasting their wines if you get a chance. Their Viognier (notoriously fickle and frequently flabby) was one of the most vibrant Virginia iterations I’ve tasted in a long time. Breaux (another producer I really appreciate) has gotten a lot of praise over the years for their Meritage, Merlot and other reds — and for good reason. Lost Creek and 50 West were both new to me, and offer up some interesting red blends, especially 50 West’s Tannat/Petit Verdot-based blend, which I found fascinating. Lastly, I tasted a Merlot from Rocky & Co., and I found the wine very attractive. This Middleburg-based project seems like one I need to watch.

These wines were all received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2015 Casanel Vineyards Chardonnay White Spark - Casey's Cuvee - USA, Virginia, Middleburg
SRP: $60
Light yellow color. Nose of tart lime, quince, sour lemon, with some perfume and sea spray notes. Zippy and tart on the palate, brisk with light bubbles and flavors of lime and crunchy green apples. Slight nutty and bread notes. Fun, fresh stuff, I’d love this with oysters. Made from all estate-grown Chardonnay, aged 36 months on the lees. (87 points)

2017 Walsh Family Wine Viognier - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $29
Light yellow color. Floral and bright (baby’s breath, spearmint, honeysuckle) over top of peaches, lime, apricot, a very lively and bright aromatic display for Viognier. Plump texture but the acidity frames the wine well, keeps it fresh. Creamy but crisp with yellow apple, juicy peach, limes. Complex notes of hay, honeycomb, chalk dust, white tea. Harmonious and vibrant, this is a seriously well-done Virginia Viognier. 13.5%, aged in old oak, a blend of fruit from Bethany Ridge and October One Vineyards. (89 points) 

2015 Breaux Vineyards Meritage - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $45
Light purple color. Nose shows tart red and black currants, smoky tobacco, charcoal, leather and anise – super complex nose. Medium+ bodied, velvety tannins but nice backbone of acidity. A good mix of red and black fruits (currants, cherries) rich fruit but a tart edge, and some minty, smoky, beefy, peppery notes. Also some toasted coconut and vanilla, but it’s woven in well. Balanced, vibrant, expressive this is a really well-done Virginia Meritage. Aging this 2-3 years would be a great call. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Petit Verdot, 23% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec, aged 18 months in oak. 13.9% alcohol. (89 points)

2016 Lost Creek Genesis - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $40
Deep ruby color. Bright cherries and red plums on the nose with tobacco, mint, roses, cinnamon and spiced tea. Zippy acidity keeps it really fresh, yet dusty tannins provide support, with tart cherries and currants. Notes of spicy pepper and black tea. Minty, spicy, floral and earthy notes. Really vibrant style, and while it’s ready to drink, I’d love to see what this does in three or four years. 67% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc, aged 18 months in French oak, 16% new. (87 points) 

2015 50 West Aldie Heights Cuvee - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $38
Bright purple color. Aromas gush with dark plums and black cherries, along with violets, mint and dark chocolate. Impressive concentration on the palate balances off of zesty acidity on a medium/full-bodied frame. Crushed black cherries, red and black currants, along with violets, clove, dark chocolate. Lots of vibrancy here, really tangy but also has enough depth and concentration to age for at least 3-5 years. 34% Tannat, 34% Petit Verdot, 24% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot, 13.9% alcohol. (88 points) 

2017 Rocky & Co. Wines Merlot Reserve “Deterts” - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Middleburg
SRP: $49
 Medium ruby color. Spicy and lively on the nose, with a kick of rose petals, clove, pepper and sage over top of red and black cherries. Medium-bodied (13.3%), built well but a pleasant roundness to the tannins and lively acidity. Juicy cherry fruit (nuanced, bright and yummy), and I get a complex blend of violets, sage and earth, with cocoa, anise and coven woven in well. Delicious, complex, stuff, it gets really floral with air. I’d love to see this in three to five years. Four barrels made, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

This week, I’m back with a catch-all report of wines I received these past few months but didn’t get around to reviewing until recently. (It’s been a busy and enjoyable summer, and I hope the same is true for you.) 

Smith-Madrone’s Spring Mountain wines are consistently some of my favorite from Napa, and I love their Chardonnay and Riesling. So, since I tasted these wines sighted, I tried to approach them with as much skepticism as possible. That said, the 2016s showed wonderfully. Crystal clear, pristine wines that are both begging for serious cellar time. And for the price, I’m still amazed these wines exist.   

C.V.N.E. comes through with some moderately-priced Riojas worth checking out. And Italy’s Garafoli provides three wines from Marche that offer some deliciousness and intrigue for the price. 

Lastly, Virginia’s Early Mountain delivers a juicy red quaffer for those late summer scorchers. 

All of these wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2016 Garafoli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore “Podium” - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
SRP: $26
Light yellow color. So perfumed, with aromas of peaches, limes, dandelion, floral potpourri, sea salt. Nice breadth of texture on the palate with vibrant acidity. Oranges, yellow plums, apricot, lots of fresh fruit, with plenty of sea salt and spicy floral potpourri, along with richer elements of honey and wax. Lots going on here. A single-vineyard Verdicchio, fermented and aged in concrete and stainless steel. (90 points)  

2018 Garofoli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore “Macrina” - Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
SRP: $15
Light yellow color. So floral, with lots of honeysuckle and daisies, along with peaches, honeydew and limes. Lively and crisp on the palate with a pleasantly plump feel. Honeydew drizzled with lime, and I get these notes of chalk, minerals, punchy herbal tones as well. This is pure summer fun but also shows significant complexity, especially for the price. Aged five months in concrete and stainless steel. (88 points)  

2016 Garofoli Rosso Conero Piancarda - Italy, Marche, Rosso Conero
SRP: $17
Deep, juicy purple color. The nose boasts raspberries and black cherries with smoky menthol, wild herbs, eucalyptus and pepper. Vibrant acidity, dusty tannins, with a solid core of red and black cherry fruit. Notes of smoky, charcoal, herbs, a bit sharp and linear, but there’s enough juiciness and complexity that it works. Spicy incense notes on the finish. 100% Montepulciano aged one year in oak. (88 points)  

2016 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Cune Crianza - Spain, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
SRP: $13
Vibrant ruby color. Nose shows juicy black cherries, spiced cranberry sauce, clove, roses and tobacco. Crisp, lively and fresh on the palate with dusty tannins. The wine is ripe and juicy but stays fresh and bright. Raspberries, cherries, topped in cocoa, dusty earth, roses, clove and mint. Lots of complexity here for a wine at this price point. An attractive, inviting, drink-me-now Rioja. (88 points)  

2016 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Viña Real Crianza - Spain, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
SRP: $16
Bright ruby color. Aromas of cherries, chilled strawberries, along with sweet roses, clay/earthy tones and cocoa powder. Fresh and bright, light tannins, juicy red fruit, crisp acidity. Cherries, raspberries and pomegranate mix well with roses, rhubarb, anise and mint. Fun, juicy, balanced, accessible but complex for the price. Aged 10 months in American oak. (88 points)  

2016 Com Tu - Spain, Catalunya, Tarragona, Montsant
SRP: $55
Rich purple color. Spicy aromatics with sage, pepper, creosote and mint, along with smoky cherries, sweet cranberry sauce, with cedar, coffee and incense. Juicy and full-bodied with suave tannins and moderating acidity, not too heavy for 15%. Raspberry and strawberry jam fruit mixes well with sweet coffee, mint, eucalyptus and pepper. The complexity is quite nice, smooth and accessible, totally delicious, but showing some complex floral, spice and earth tones. Grill-friendly stuff that packs a punch. A project from Rene Barbier Ferrer of Clos Mogador. 100% Garnacha from 35- to 50-year-old vines, aged 18 months in barrel. (90 points)  

2016 Smith-Madrone Riesling - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $34
Light yellow color. Gorgeous nose of salted limes, apricot, pineapple, with dusty, chalky, sea spray notes. Laser-like focus on the palate, quite dry and vibrant. Juicy yellow and green apples with limes, and a complex mix of limestone, ocean spray, mountain stream and crushed shells. Such a lively, complex, balanced and age-worthy Riesling. Smith-Madrone does it again, and this vintage is a stunner for the cellar. 12.8% alcohol, about 0.7% residual sugar. (93 points)  

2016 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $40
Light yellow color. Aromas of juicy yellow apples topped in complex notes of honey, almond, cinnamon, sea salt, hay and chalk dust. Deep texture on the palate with pretty acidity and lovely balance. Yellow apples, candied lemons, orange peel and apricot, juicy and fruity but also airy and elegant. Salty, minerals, chalky, with notes of honey, nougat and hay. Gorgeous, deep, yet vibrant. Another beautiful Chardonnay from Smith-Madrone. Barrel fermented with 80% new French oak. I’d love to age this for five years. (93 points) 

2018 Early Mountain Vineyards Soif - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $26
Deep but bright ruby color. Very pretty, juicy, fresh nose of red plums, candied cherries, bubble gum, with sweet pipe tobacco. Fresh and lively on the palate, light-bodied (12.3% alcohol) with soft tannins and zippy acidity. Plums, cherries, raspberries, super juicy but it’s also showing complex nots of earth, soy, rose potpourri and clove. So fun and delicious. An interesting semi-carbonic wine, a blend of 49% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot, 13% Petit Verdot, 3% Chardonnay and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Soif means thirst in French and Early Mountain certainly made a gulpable, juicy, low tannin, crushable red in this difficult vintage. (88 points)