Wine Reviews: New Releases from California

We’re back to the Golden State this week with a mix of newly-released wines from various producers.

Old school California powerhouse Wente lays out four Chardonnays that show an interesting diversity of styles. For several years, I’ve loved the bright and brisk Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs coming from Sonoma’s Alma Fria, and their 2015s are singing beautifully right now, and will continue to do so for years. Ehlers Estate’s Sauv Blanc and Chateau Montelena’s Zin deliver yet again, while a few other wines round out the report.

These wines were received as samples and tastes sighted.

Whites

2015 Robert Mondavi Winery Fumé Blanc Oakville - California, Napa Valley, Oakville
SRP: $40
Medium yellow color with aromas of nettle, lemon verbena, sliced jalapeno, on top of white peaches, apricot, honey and white tea. Juicy and full with creamy texture but lively acidity. Apricots, green melon, lemon, with honeyed white tea, cut green herbs, spicy nettle. Notes of cinnamon and almond woven in well, this is a balanced and vibrant wine with a dusty mineral finish. Mostly barrel-fermented with some lees stirring for nine months, 14% Semillon blended in as well. (90 points)

2016 Jack Winery Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $35
Medium yellow color. Richer aromatics of yellow apple, apricot am, white tea, toasted nuts, honey and cinnamon. Plump and rich texture but medium acidity, bold and flavorful but fresh and pretty as well. Yellow apples, bruised pear, lemon curd, with notes of honeyed tea and white pepper. Bold and beautiful style. (90 points)

2017 Ehlers Estate Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $32
Steely lemon color. Nose shows salted lemon, apricot, green apple, with notes of lemon verbena, chalk dust and honeysuckle. Super crisp and nervy, with brisk and salty notes but plenty of texture and depth. Apricot, tart lemon, green apple with complex elements of chalk dust, lemon verbena, basil, honey and white flowers. Lovely complexity, so balanced and expressive, another great example from Ehlers. (90 points)

2016 La Crema Chardonnay Russian River Valley - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. Aromas of yellow pear, peaches and apples, mixed with notes of yellow flowers, honeycomb, white tea, whipped butter. Creamy and bold texture on the palate with medium acidity, and juicy fruits (bruised pear, baked apple) cinnamon notes, toasted almond, with white and yellow flowers and whipped butter. Rich and stylistically forward but well made. Aged eight months in 1/3 new French oak. (87 points)

2017 Wente Vineyards Chardonnay Eric's - California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. Aromas of sea breeze, lemon crème, some green apple, salted almond. Crisp and steely on the palate (no maloactic fermentation, all stainless steel), this is a fresh and appealing style with plump apple and lemon cake flavors. I get notes of sea breeze and almond. Fresh and bright but fun and shows some delicious flavors. (88 points)

2016 Wente Vineyards Chardonnay Morning Fog - California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley
SRP: $18
Light gold color. Nose shows pineapple, lime, rich yellow apples, with honey, almond and biscuits. Bold texture, medium-bodied, with medium acidity that keeps it quite fresh. Yellow plums and bruised apple fruit mix with toasted almond, cinnamon, graham cracker and fresh laundry. Rich but goes down easy and stays lively. Half fermented in American oak, half in stainless steel. Solid stuff for the money. (87 points)

2016 Wente Vineyards Chardonnay Single Vineyard Riva Ranch - California, Central Coast, Arroyo Seco
SRP: $22
Medium gold color. Bold nose of apricot jam, candied orange peel, almond, honey, peanut brittle and some vanilla. Plush texture with medium acidity, this is a warm and jammy style with apricot and orange marmalades, bruised pear, apricot jam, along with notes of vanilla and honey and almond. Tasty and crowd-friendly. All maloactic fermentation, most of the wine sees 60% new French oak. (87 points)

2016 Wente Vineyards Chardonnay 135th Anniversary Limited Release - California, Central Coast
SRP: $40
Medium yellow color. Pleasant and inviting aromas of salted almond, vanilla, hay, cinnamon, on top of white peach, apricots and green apples. Rich textural depth meets vibrant acidity, this is a bold but nuanced chardonnay with a nice mix of bruised yellow and tart green apples. Notes of nougat, cinnamon and vanilla woven in nicely. Most of the wine undergoes maloactic fermentation and is 16 months in a combination of new and used American Oak and French Oak, while 20% fermented in stainless steel without maloactic. (90 points)

2016 Wente Vineyards Chardonnay Nth Degree - California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley
SRP $70
Deep yellow color. Bold aromatic punch of honey, toasted almond, toasted bread, fresh biscuits, on top of bruised apple and lemon curd. Rich texture, this is a bold presence on the palate with medium acidity to help it balance out. Bruised yellow apple and apricot meet loads of toasted nuts, spicy cedar, vanilla. Full-throttle style, but it’s quite well done. All maloactic fermentation, this spends 14 months in new and used French oak. (89 points)

2015 Alma Fría Chardonnay Plural - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $40
Medium yellow color. Breezy aromas of ocean spray and white flowers, with lemon curd, yellow apples, honeycomb, salted almond and cinnamon notes. Medium-bodied, this is crisp and bright with nervy acidity on a medium-bodied frame (13.4% alcohol). Flavors of tangerine and lemon curd, woven together with honey, white flowers, nougat, saline, dusty/chalky minerals. Another excellent vintage of this elegant Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. (92 points)

2015 Alma Fría Chardonnay Campbell Ranch Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $50
Pretty yellow color. Gorgeous aromatics, contrasting between bright (sea breeze, chalk, river rocks, white flowers) and richer notes (orange marmalade, lemon curd, honey, nougat). Crisp and lip-smacking on the palate, so focused and vibrant, but shows lovely depth. Lemon curd, key lime pie, apricot, seasoned with crusty sea salt, limestone, minerals and crushed shells. Hints of white tea, honeycomb and peanut brittle add complexity. So curious to taste this in 3-5 years from now. Wow. (94 points)

Reds

2016 Cline Cellars Zinfandel Ancient Vines - California, San Francisco Bay, Contra Costa County
SRP: $15
Light purple color. Rich and smoky on the nose, with a cool mix of black cherry and raspberry jam with smoky, barbecue notes, coconut coffee and black pepper sauce. Juicy and plush but some medium-light tannins, lots of ripe red cherries, roasted black cherries. Notes of sweet barbecue sauce, black pepper glaze, some sweet cedar. Fun, delicious Zin for the price. Aged 7 months in 35% new American oak. (87 points)

2016 Sidebar Cellars Zinfandel Alegría Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $28
Light ruby color. Bright and tart red and black currants, lots of spicy rosebush and violets, earthy, clove notes – a lot to like when sniffing. Very pretty structure on the palate with velvety tannins, fresh acidity, and plenty of juicy fruit (cherries, plums, raspberries, currants). Complex elements of clove, cedar, roses, coffee grounds. Round but also tangy, fruity but earthy and savory spice elements. Impressive depth and freshness as well. (90 points)

2015 Chateau Montelena Zinfandel - California, Napa Valley, Calistoga
SRP: $39
Deep ruby, light purple color. Aromas of tart red and black currants, a beautiful mix of black tea and dark floral and clove tones with spicy pepper and sweet pipe tobacco. Tangy acidity frames the palate nicely, but velvety tannins provide structure. Complex tangy black and red currants and cherries, along with clove, violets, cinnamon, eucalyptus, and some deep earthy, rocky elements. Very impressive, and easy to drink now, but can also hold for at least a few years. All Zin aged 16 months in French, Irish and American oak, 15% new. (91 points)

2014 Gamble Family Vineyards Paramount - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $90
Deep purple color. Dark and saucy aromatics with blackberries and dark plums, loamy earth, charcoal, graphite, dark chocolate shavings. Fresh acidity helps frame this wine nicely, while the tannins give grip, but the balance is evident. Tangy blackberries and blueberries are topped in anise, charcoal smoke and graphite. The rich but tart fruit and the mineral streak on the end make a great combo. Will improve with a few years at least. 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Cabernet Franc, 28% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot, aged for 20 months in 46% new French oak barrels. (91 points)

2015 Jack Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley, Diamond Mountain
SRP: $125
Deep purple color. Rich, voluptuous aromas of crushed blueberry, black currants, eucalyptus and vanilla. Grippy but velvety on the palate, some acidity helps moderate. Plump black cherry, tart blueberry, currant jam, gobs of fruit but the wine is also loaded with eucalyptus, mint, gravelly earth. Espresso, cedar and vanilla woven in nicely. Big but nuanced and age-worthy. 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc. Aged 22 months in new French oak. (91 points)

2016 La Crema Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $23
Bright ruby color. Aromas of sweet raspberries, cherry cola, sweet strawberry, rhubarb pie and roses. Medium-bodied, medium acidity, juicy and ripe with an easygoing appeal. Strawberry and raspberry jam with cola, roses and rhubarb notes. Fun, fruity, playful style, well done for the price. Aged nine months in 25% new French oak. (86 points)

2016 La Crema Pinot Noir Monterey - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $23
Light ruby color. On the nose, strawberries, sour cherries, red apple peel, cola and rhubarb. Crisp acidity, light tannins, 13.9% alcohol but a medium to light-bodied feel, with flavors of red cherries, raspberries and red apples. Notes of spiced tea, rhubarb, sweet cola. A fresh and bright style with plenty of juicy red fruit. Nine months in 21% new French oak. (86 points)

2015 Alma Fría Pinot Noir Plural Sonoma Coast - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $40
Bright medium ruby color. Very pretty aromatics of tart red cherries, wild raspberries, matched with spicy clove, mint, rhubarb, rose petals. Such a fresh and vibrant wine but not lacking at all in structure and flavor. Solid but velvety, crisp acidity, waves of tart cherry and strawberry fruit. Roses, rhubarb and white pepper linger with richer notes of clove and cola. Beautiful stuff to drink now or cellar for a few years. (92 points)

2015 Alma Fría Pinot Noir Holtermann Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $62
Deep ruby color. Gorgeous aromas of chilled raspberries, fresh strawberries, re apple peel, along with a complex host of spicy rhubarb, white pepper, rose petals. Medium-bodied on the palate this is a brisk style but plenty of fleshy fruit and supported by dusty tannins. Crisp, chilled red fruits (raspberries, strawberries, red apple), with complex elements of spicy herbs, mushroom and soy. So harmonious right now but I’d love to hold for three or four years. (93 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Mendocino Dreaming: Surfing and Sipping Parducci Wines

Cold, remote and rugged, the Mendocino Coast is full of empty (and sharky) surf spots.

Wine and waves are two of my favorite things in life. On a recent trip to Mendocino County, California, I got to enjoy both in the same day.

I was visiting with friends and family in Potter Valley, a small inland enclave that’s home to an increasing amount of vineyards. My mother, father, brother, sister and I all got up well before dawn and loaded up the car. My brother drove us up steep mountain roads lined with redwoods until we reached the coast. I’ve spent a lot of time in Mendocino — it’s one of my favorite places on the planet so far — but each time I catch a glimpse of the rugged, rocky coast, my stomach knots up with excitement.

The remote beach we chose was populated only by a handful of sleeping hippies. My brother and I suited up and paddled out into 50-degree waves. We surfed some frigid five-to-six foot beauties as the sun rose over the mountains to the west. After a few hours, I couldn’t feel my feet or move my lips, but I was in a state of complete bliss. Later that morning we hit up at a beach break at the mouth of the Big River and caught another hour’s worth of solid waves. When we couldn’t surf any more, we packed up the car and head inland.

A hillside Sauvignon Blanc vineyard in Potter Valley, Medoncino.

The next stop was Ukiah, home to one of my favorite Mendocino County winemakers, Parducci. I’ve spent many hours in the Parducci tasting room, sipping from their wide array of wines, touring the vineyards and winery. Still, Parducci is one of those places I’ll always come back to. Even though Parducci is a large producer, their tasting room is totally Mendocino: laid back, rustic, calm. I wore sandy flip-flops and a death metal T-shirt while others wore dusty boots and tank tops, and no one gave a damn. My tasting crew had grown to ten, including a baby in tow, and we all crowded around the bar to taste through Parducci’s portfolio. The tasting room attendant took care of our group like a pro, serving up decent-sized pours, answering questions, telling stories.

We started off with a few wines from Parducci’s Paul Dolan label, which is focused on organic and biodynamic fruit. Generally, the winery strives for organic grapes in most of their wines, but Paul Dolan wines fully embrace organic viticulture and winemaking. Paul Dolan also embraces the Potter Valley appellation on some of their labels. Much of the fruit from Potter goes into blends that sport a simple Mendocino County label, so it’s nice to see a producer trying to get the name of this appellation out there. I may be biased because I’ve spent a lot of time in Potter Valley and loved every minute of it, but I really think this is a special winegrowing region. Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir do very well here in the dry climate and long growing season. It gets hot during the summer, which allows the fruit to grow plenty ripe, but during my July trip the temperature dropped 45 degrees at night, which helps the wines maintain crisp acidity.

Here are my thoughts on the Parducci wines I tasted…

N.V. Paul Dolan Vineyards Brut - Mendocino County ($27)
Paul Dolan’s done a great job making a Mendocino Brut at a very reasonable price. This blend of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay smells of lemon, lime and freshly baked biscuits, a hint of butter. The palate is loaded with minerals and acid, backed up by crisp lime and green apple fruit. Very focused with delicate brioche and lemon butter undertones. Brisk, long finish. I’m impressed. (90 points)

2011 Paul Dolan Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - Mendocino County, Potter Valley ($18)
It’s nice to see Paul Dolan embracing the Potter Valley label. This Sauvignon Blanc is a good example of what Potter can do with this grape. The wine smells of guava, honey, some flowers and just a whiff of chive. Juicy guava on the palate but the grapefruit and lemon flavors are zesty. I really appreciate the zippy acid and high minerality in this wine. Just a hint of grass, but this isn’t your average lawnmower New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. (88 points)

2011 Paul Dolan Vineyards Chardonnay - Mendocino County ($18)
Aromas of white flowers, brisk lemon and honey. Creamy on the palate with notes of whipped honey and nougat, but the citrus fruit keeps it tangy and balanced. A nice mineral tinge to the finish. Aged for five months in 15% new French oak and 85% stainless steel, giving the final wine a combination of richness and crispness. Well-done stuff. (88 points)

2010 Paul Dolan Vineyards Zinfandel - Mendocino County ($25)
Lots of stuff going on aromatically: a burst of wild strawberry and blackberry, mocha, pepper and an aroma that reminds me of dried hay or a briar patch or something. Anyway, it smells good. Loads of plums on the palate, a bit raisined perhaps, but not too much. Creamy tannins and medium acid come together to make this easy to sip and enjoy. Big, but not too overbearing. (87 points)

2010 Paul Dolan Vineyards Pinot Noir - Mendocino County, Potter Valley ($38)
Hey, this looks like Pinot! Light ruby color. A cranberry focus on the nose, along with spicy pepper notes, earth and sweet lavender. Beautifully aromatic and deserving of more than a tasting room sniff. On the palate, the acid is wonderfully brisk. Fine, creamy tannins support the fresh cranberry and cherry fruit. This shows some really interesting savory and earthy tones, and a bacon note lingers on the long finish. Elegant and light (with a moderate 13.5% alcohol content) but not simple in any way. I know Anderson Valley gets all the love, but I’m really digging Potter Pinot Noir. This wine is aged 19 months in 23% new oak barrels. (91 points)

I appreciate the way Parducci produces a range of wines at all sorts of price points. Their cheaper labels like the Small Lot Blends and Sketchbook are frequently good buys. I was also happy that the True Grit Petite Sirah made a showing at this tasting, as I’ve enjoyed previous vintages. In fact, it’s high up there on my list of best California Petite Sirahs.

2011 Parducci Pinot Noir Small Lot – California ($14)
I rarely recommend $14 Pinot Noirs. Well, here’s one. Light cranberry color is the first good sign. On the nose, strawberry jam mixes with rhubarb and subtle pepper. Fine tannins, crisp acid, a light and tangy approach. Strawberry and raspberry fruit with notes of vanilla and caramel. It’s not the most complex Pinot, but it does what it does very well. Harmonious and crowd-pleasing, it seems everyone at the tasting enjoyed this wine. (87 points)

2010 Parducci Cabernet Sauvignon Small Lot - Mendocino County ($14)
A combination of black and green pepper kicks off the nose, but there are also some saucy black cherry and currant aromas. Very creamy and silky on the palate with soft tannins for a Cabernet and medium acid. Currant and plum fruit is dusted with loam, bell pepper and toasty notes. Easy-drinking and a good Cab for $14. A blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petite Verdot. (85 points)

2010 Parducci Grenache Reserve - Mendocino County ($27)
A cranberry-plum color with thick legs in the glass. Dense on the nose, rather closed at first. I let it sit, swirled it around, and started getting raspberries, caramel and spice notes. Rich but juicy on the palate. Nice mix of blueberry and cranberry fruit, along with hazelnut, tobacco and loam. This wine tasted riper and more forward than the other wines in this tasting, but it holds its ripeness well. Huge flavor packed in here. This is a really young wine that could benefit from a long decant or some cellar time. Aged 20 months in seasoned French and American oak. (88 points)

2010 Parducci Petite Sirah True Grit - Mendocino County ($29)
This is the best True Grit Petite Sirah I’ve tasted so far. Inky black-purple color with thunder thighs in the glass. Huge nose of blackberry puree and boysenberry but there are also some potpourri and lavender aromas that rock. Dense and lush on the palate with firm, grippy tannins. The plum and boysenberry fruit is rich and pure, and accented by notes of grilled steak, earth and charcoal. Long, dusty finish. This is a really young wine that would benefit from a decant, but it’s beautiful stuff. One of the best Petite Sirahs I’ve had in a long time. (91 points)

2010 Parducci Port Reserve - Mendocino County ($30)
Big and sweet on the nose, with prunes, plum cake, vanilla wafers and rich mocha. Actually quite silky on the palate, with medium tannins. Fig paste, prunes and brandied plums on the palate, with notes of caramel and nuts. A little heat from the alcohol, but it’s not too bad. Everyone at the tasting enjoyed this wine. Bring on the bleu cheese. A unique blend of 50% Souzao, 20% Tinta Cao, 17.5% fortified brandy and 12.5% Touriga Nacional. (88 points)

See you in Mendocino!

Holman Ranch: A Lighter Shade of California

Monetery County’s Holman Ranch has been a popular destination for decades. In its heydey, Holman Ranch hosted dinners and parties for the likes of Clark Gable, Vincent Price and Marlon Brando. These days the property has stables capable of holding more than 100 horses and contains a 20-stall show barn. Nearby, olive trees soak up the warm Monterey sun.

Oh, yeah, and Holman Ranch also produces wine.

Thomas and Jarman Lowder bought Holman Ranch in 2006 with the idea of making their own wine and olive oil. The property, located in the Carmel Valley appellation, is now home to 19 acres of vines, most of which were planted in 2007 and 2008. These estate vineyards sit 12 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean at an elevation of about 1,000 feet. (Here’s a map of the vineyard plantings.)

The Lowders also wanted to continue Holman Ranch’s heritage as a kind of Monterey wine country destination, so they refurbished the property with all the bells and whistles and now market the ranch as a place for weddings and retreats. Their daughter, Hunter, coordinates the winery’s special events. (Judging from the view in these pictures, it does seem like an awesome place for a wedding.)

I’ll admit that the emphasis on Holman Ranch as an event space and tourist destination made me wonder if their wines might be a littly gimmicky. The ’90s script on the labels and the corny language in the press materials — “Where the Past is Always Present” — didn’t help my prejudices. I was expecting run-of-the-mill pinot and chardonnay without much personality. I’m happy to admit I was wrong.



Don't be scared. Tartrate crystals in a bottle usually signify
a minimalist approach to winemaking, not a faulty wine.  

These wines, like the Holman Ranch property, are old school. They display high acid and low alcohol, a combination that is far too uncommon in California these days. The wines are unfined and the whites show a significant amount of tartrate crystals in the bottle. (Tartrates are harmless, natural crystalline deposits, so don’t worry. They’re not the result of the winemaker doing something wrong.) If I had to ascribe a common theme to Holman Ranch wines it would be freshness. These wines are easy to drink and perfect for the seafood, salads and chicken dishes of summer. I have to praise the modest price points as well.

  

These wines were made by Greg Vito, a UC Davis graduate. Before opening his own vineyard and winemaking consultancy, he used to work for Spring Mountain Vineyards in St. Helena.  

Here are my notes on Holman Ranch’s new releases. All of these wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

 

2011 Holman Ranch Sauvignon Blanc ($20)

Some tartrate crystals in the glass, but no worries. Aromatically, this takes the citrus and floral road, with grapefruit, lime and honeysuckle. Really tangy on the palate with lots of acid. Ruby red grapefruit flavors all the way, along with green melon and lemon peel. Brisk as all get out and the 12.5% alcohol keeps it light. Not your typical California sauvignon blanc, and I mean that in a good way. Bring on summer. (87 points)

2010 Holman Ranch Chardonnay ($28)

Aromas of oil, dried wax and sea salt — what is this, Jura? — along with some lemon-lime and honeycomb. The palate starts off with a tremendous rush of acid. It’s incredibly brisk in its approach, with flavors of mineral and oyster shell battling it out with the grapefruit and rich honey notes. This is aged three months in new French oak, but, at first, all I could taste was the acid. As the wine opened up and warmed up to near room temperature, you can start to fully taste the toasted popcorn notes. Overall, this wine is intriguing, but definitely a stylistic wine that might not be for everyone. I say open this with oysters, pair it like you would a Chablis. Very good stuff. (90 points)

2011 Holman Ranch Pinot Gris Estate Grown ($20)

Green melon and yellow apple fruit combine with floral notes on the nose. On the palate, high acid starts it off. Apricot, melon and yellow apple fruit, along with notes of quinine and dandelion. Fresh and floral in its approach with a medium finish. 12.5% alcohol. (85 points)

2011 Holman Ranch Rosé of Pinot Noir ($22)

Bright strawberry-cherry colored. Smells of watermelon and wild strawberry topped with lime juice. Brisk acid on the palate, with flavors of wild strawberry and lime mixed with a spicy-herbal note that reminds me of rosemary. 12.5% alcohol, this wine is a light, bright rose that paired wonderfully with an array of hard cheeses. (87 points)

2010 Holman Ranch Pinot Noir Estate Grown ($33)

A flat-out joyous pinot noir. Mix of sour and ripe cherries on the nose, along with rose petals and pepper. Bright and juicy on the palate, with fresh cherries, cola, earth and notes of chewing tobacco. Firm tannins and fresh acid make this a refreshing pinot. Minerality and pepper linger on the finish. Not the deepest or most profound pinot noir, but delicious and very brisk for a California pinot noir. 12.5% alcohol. (88 points)

2011 Holman Ranch Pinot Noir Heather’s Hill ($37)

Plums, cherry pie and some dusty, earthy notes on the nose, along with rose petals and hints of pepper. The palate shows fresh, juicy red fruit and black fruit mix together with notes of cola, tobacco, cedar and soil. Medium acid with fine tannins, quite delightful. This is bigger than the estate pinot noir but not necessarily more complex. Still quite delightful. (88 points)

Blind Tasting Oregon and California Pinot Noirs

It’s a whole lot of fun to taste wines blind, especially when the wines run a range of prices. You don’t know who made the wine or what the wine costs, so your subconscious can’t factor those elements into the equation. Blind tasting is just you, your senses and the wine, and all you can do is focus on how those three things interact.

To help out my friends at Terroirist.com, I tasted through a dozen or so pinot noirs from Oregon and California. All of the wines were newly-released trade samples, and they were all tasted blind, meaning I didn’t know anything except that they were American pinot noirs. After writing my full tasting note and scoring the wines, I unveiled them. Then I checked their prices on Wine-Searcher, a wine sales aggregator, and included the average price.

As all blind tastings are, this exercise was educational and enlightening, and these wines demonstrate the range of styles and flavors available from domestic pinot noir.

Here’s my report…

2010 Van Duzer Pinot Noir Estate Oregon, Willamette Valley ($30)
Pretty cherry color. Aromas of blackberries and cherries, along with rich loam and a distinct musk and herbal tinge. Dry tannins and lots of fresh acid provide a solid background for the ripe plum and strawberry flavors. Cedar and pepper linger onto the finish. I imagine this would be more expressive in a year or two, but it's still quite impressive. (88 points)

2010 Stepping Stone by Cornerstone Pinot Noir Oregon, Willamette Valley ($30)
Dark ruby color. Gushing cherries on the nose. Also very floral , like a potpourri of dried roses, and hints of earth. On the palate, cherry and red licorice lead the way to some rose petals, tobacco and beef flavors. The acid is really pretty and it keeps the wine balanced in the face of grainy tannins. It seems approachable now, but I'd like to see what five years would do for some of those savory-herbal elements. (89 points)

2010 Cornerstone Cellars Pinot Noir Oregon, Willamette Valley ($26)
Bright purple colored. Explosive aromas of cherry pie filling, brown sugar and black pepper. The palate shows bright acid, very rich cherry fruit, and a nice kick of pepper. The toasty oak adds a real richness to this wine, and it borders on the extreme end of the oak spectrum. That said, the fine tannins and solid fruit hold up well against the oak. (87 points)

2009 Stoller Pinot Noir JV Estate Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills ($24)

Bright cherry colored with a tiny hint of spritz. More strawberry and cherry fruit on the nose than the other wines, with some vanilla coke as well. A nice kick of dill and sage linger on the nose. On the palate, this is fresh and light, with an approachable personality. Really pure flavors of cherry and raspberry, but there's some sage and pepper flavors that add complexity. An undeniably tasty pinot. (89 points)

2010 Robert Mondavi Winery Pinot Noir California, Napa, Carneros ($23)

Dark and deep on the nose, showing black cherries and plums along with a hint of anise. Fine tannins and medium-to-low acid on the palate. Flavors of sweet plum, cassis and red licorice, beefed up with toasted oak. Hints of chocolate linger on the finish. Big, hedonistic and very toasty. (85 points)

2009 Inman Family Pinot Noir Olivet Grange Vineyard California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley ($60)
Light ruby color. The burst of rhubarb and white pepper on the nose is really interesting. Underneath, aromas of raspberry jam, wild strawberry and rose petals. The acid on this wine is really superb, giving the wine incredible freshness for a New World pinot. Raspberry and wild strawberry fruit flavors blend nicely with white pepper and incense. Medium-to-fine grained tannins provide structure. Long, zesty finish. It would probably benefit from a few hours in the decanter or a few more years in the cellar, but this is a beautiful and elegant young pinot. (91 points)

2011 Hahn Estates Pinot Noir California ($13)
Pretty cherry color, very clear. Soft and inviting on the nose with cherry cola, rose petals and rich soil. Fine-grained tannins and just below medium acid. Juicy flavors of cherry preserves, red plums along with that same rich soil note that’s so nice on the nose. Sweet cherry, earth and mocha carry the finish. A big, fruity pinot with decent structure. (86 points)

2010 Gainey Pinot Noir California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills ($29)
Raspberry jam colored. Lots of cedar on the nose, along with raspberry and sour cherries. On the palate, a burst of sour cherry fruit and acid leads the way to a richer, blackberry flavor, along with some vanilla and toasted oak. Very pretty, with medium-grain tannins and a Thanksgiving dinner-like finish of cranberry sauce and pepper. It has a unique sense of purity and balance. (90 points)

2010 Hahn Estates Pinot Noir SLH California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands ($29)
Vibrant red plum color. Plum skins and cherry jam on the nose, mixed in with a sweet, almost molasses-like aroma. On the palate, the wine is surprisingly smooth, with tannins like satin and medium acid providing a soft background for the bright red and black fruit. Notes of baker’s chocolate, coffee and coconut-toasty oak round out the finish. Unashamedly delicious. Very silky, but the structure hints that it could last a few years. (88 points)

This single-vineyard pinot from Breggo was my favorite of the lot.
Even when blind tasted, Anderson Valley pinot noir comes out on top.

2010 Breggo Cellars Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard California, North Coast, Anderson Valley ($60)
Medium ruby colored. Aromatically, this wine explodes with sweet berries, rose petals, vanilla bean and a hint of coconut. Firm tannins on the palate, medium acid, and gushing cherry and raspberry fruit combine in a full-bodied, but juicy style. This wine has a great herbal-savory kick that adds complexity. Tinges of sweet mocha and oak linger onto the finish, but not enough to overwhelm the wine’s other aspects. Despite its richness, the wine somehow maintains lightness and balance, which will probably only improve with time. (93 points)

2010 Robert Mondavi Winery Pinot Noir Reserve California, Napa, Carneros ($55)

Bright ruby colored. Very dense on the nose, a bit closed, but with swirling the aromas of cool plum and pomegranate came out, also some notes of pine needle and dried leaves. Very full on the palate, with medium acid and incredibly silky tannins. It’s got the big flavors of cherry pie, vanilla cola and milk chocolate, but it’s accented with notes of cinnamon stick and pine wood. Toasty oak lingers on a long, creamy finish. Seems like it has a long time ahead of it. Very impressive. (91 points)

Buy this $15 pinot noir now

Buy this $15 pinot noir now

Bourgogne wines, like all red Burgundy, are hit or miss. To navigate Burgundy, you have to have rely on good producers, good vintages and good luck. Wines labeled “Bourgogne” are ranked lower in appellation than village level, premier cru and grand cru wines. This means they come from outside of classified vineyards, and they are sometimes a blend of pinot noir from different regions. Since the appellation is so broad, the wines can vary wildly. Many times Bourgogne wines are mediocre. Many times they are decent. And every once in a while there’s one that really stands out and says, “I’m pinot noir, bitch. You best recognize.”

I am drinking just such a wine right now. It is the 2009 Joseph Faiveley Bourgogne “Paulee” and I bought it from Calvert Woodley Wines in DC for $15.

It’s a vibrant, black cherry color in the glass. It shows a lot of black cherry and ripe plum aromas, but there’s an underlying earthiness that I love. With time in the glass, it opened up aromatically to show rose petal and coffee aromas. On the palate, this wine has grainy tannins. Dark cherry flavors lead into plum and mocha. There’s some oak in this wine, but not too much. It’s fresh all the way through, with a solid dose of acid. The cranberry fruit on the finish is pure and delicious.
This really is a solid pinot noir, and an amazing value at $15. I really like the 2009 vintage in Burgundy. Joseph Faively has done a great job with this wine.

88 points

Buy this pinot noir, thank me later. Post your tasting notes!

5 Wines Under $25

One of my favorite wine stores of all time is back up and running. Weygandt Wines in Washington DC's Cleveland Park neighborhood is re-launching with a great new selection of under $25 wines. They still have their classic offerings from Burgundy, Rhone and Germany, as well as an incredible selection of Austrian rieslings and gruner veltliner's from one of my all-time favorite producers, F.X. Pichler.

I stopped by the shop and tasted through five wines, all priced at less than $25. There is serious value out there in Old World wines, and I was impressed at how well these wines showed. The three pinots were all great, which is quite an achievement considering their low price point. Anyway, here are some notes... Cheers! Remember: drink well; drink cheap.

2008 Domaine des Cassagnoles Gros Manseng Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne (France, Southwest France, Gascony, Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne)

this wine is made from 100 percent gros manseng. the color is very light straw. the nose shows grass, flowers and green pears. the palate shows fresh acidity and delicious, tangy lemon-lime flavors. at $12, this wine is a steal, and a no-brainer for scallops, light pastas or salads. (86 pts)

2009 Christophe Denizot Givry Domaine des Moirots (France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Givry)

i was surprised by the amount of funkiness on the nose. it's matched with bright red fruit as well, so it's interesting. the palate is bright with acid, it has a solid tannic structure. rich cherry fruit and a distinct iron note. this is a complex wine, but it's also straight up delicious and showing very well right now. this is a steal at $24. (90 pts) 

2009 Gerard & Pierre Morin Sancerre Rouge (France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre)

this pinot noir is really exciting, especially at $25. it's gorgeous purple in color, and the aromas are great: flowers, red currants, plums and just a little bit of loam. the palate is rich with red cherry fruit and dark chocolate, but the iron-like minerality and the fresh acid make this a balanced package. i really enjoyed it, and i think this wine could please pretty much any palate. (90 pts) 

2009 Gerard & Pierre Morin Sancerre Rouge Bellechaume (France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre)

this pinot noir was much richer in style. the nose was full of flowers and dark cherries. i really liked the silkiness of this wine, and the rich cherry and cranberry fruit. (88 pts) 

2010 L'Oustal Blanc (Isabel et Claude Fonquerle) Vin de France K (France, Vin de France) 

this 100 percent carignan is a gorgeous purple color in the glass. it smells like plum cake and blackberry sauce. the palate is really dense and rich. the alcohol shows a bit at 15%. there's a lot of sweet blackberries and milk chocolate on the palate. if you like fruit bomb syrahs, this wine is for you. (87 pts)