This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
Bulgarian’s Thracian Valley is home to a wide array of wines that can be as impressive as they are inexpensive.
“It’s no longer that crap they used to sell to Russia by the millions,” a Bulgarian vintner once told me.
Indeed.
I recently tasted through the lineup from a relatively new project called Parallel 43, a Virginia-based importer and wholesaler focused on promoting Bulgarian wines. It can’t be easy trying to convince consumers to drink Bulgarian Mavrud, but, for the adventurous and value-minded, there’s a lot to like coming out of the Thracian Valley.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2013 Parallel 43 Selections “Dreamy Wendy” - Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $12
Pale lemon color with a slight spritz in the glass. Smells of white peach, rich apple, yellow pear and a hint of green herbs. Tangy and lip-smacking on the palate but a creamy body. Tangerine and white-peach dominated with just a hint of minerals. Zesty, fun, a middle-of-the-road style. 80% Chardonnay, 20% Sauvignon Blanc. (85 points)
2013 Parallel 43 Selections Syrah Rosé “Circulus” - Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $12
Medium salmon color. Nose of red apple peel, wild strawberries, some mixed green herbs and some stony accents. Full-bodied and waxy on the palate (14.5% alcohol), but refreshing acid. I enjoy the strawberry and McIntosh apple-driven approach, along with the elements of white pepper and rose tea. Chalk and mineral notes on the finish. Crisp and clean but gutsy as well. I’m a big advocate of regional diversity in rose – the more the better – but this is impressive stuff. (88 points)
2012 Parallel 43 Selections Syrah “Quadratus” - Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $12
Dark ruby color. Tart blueberries and blackberries on the nose, some violets, lavender and cracked pepper, but overall the nose needs time to open up. Solid tannic structure, some moderate acid, full body. Mulberries, blueberries and blackberries blend together, all of it tart and brisk. A mix of chestnut, loamy soil, graphite and sweet lavender add complexity, smoke and pencil lead on the finish. Tartness helps balance the 14.5% alcohol. I’m trying to come up with comparisons with other Syrahs, but they all fall flat. Could use two to four years. One of the more thought-provoking sub-$15 Syrahs I’ve tasted. (87 points)
2013 Parallel 43 Selections Cabernet Franc “Trianguli” - Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $10
Medium purple color. Tart blueberries and raspberries on the nose, some pepper and sweet clove, with strong dusty elements. Solid, sturdy tannic structure on the palate, a bold presence. Bright blueberry and black currant fruit, some sweet teriyaki glaze as well as mushroom, earth and a bit of burned word. Surprised by the grip to this wine, but the acid is a bit low for my palate. The rare $10 wine that needs to be cellared for a while, I think. (85 points)
2013 Parallel 43 Selections Mavrud “Trianguli” - Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $15
Dark cherry colored. Deep and dark blackberry and plum fruit on the nose, along with an interesting mix of campfire, herbal liqueur, and a metallic and iron-like note. Medium-bodied with quite intense tannins and medium+ acid. The blackberry and blueberry fruit is rich and chewy, laced with smoke, beef jerky, granite and pencil lead. Lots of smoky, loamy, notes like floral incense sticks and heavy, wet soil. Complex, food-friendly because of its balance and freshness, but also rich. Lovely tartness and earthy flavors linger on the finish. (88 points)
Robert Hayk is a man on a mission: convincing Americans to give Bulgarian wines a try.
“It’s no longer that crap they used to sell to Russia by the millions,” Hayk said. “Bulgarians have so much passion and potential.” To prove it, Hayk kicked off a new project called Grapes & Barley. He coordinates with growers in Bulgaria’s Thracian Valley and international winemakers to craft inexpensive and accessible wines under the Bulgariana label.
I met with Hayk last week at the Blue Duck Tavern in Washington, DC. We shared stories of travels in Eastern Europe as we tasted Bulgariana’s wines, which were served alongside a menu prepared by Chef Sebastian Archambault.
My experience with Bulgarian wine is limited to a few bottles my father brought back from his European travels. I’ve had some solid Gewürztraminers and some heavily-oaked but delicious Thracian Valley Cabernets that, if served blind, might make an unsuspecting wine drinker shout: “Napa!” But few American consumers have made a connection between Bulgaria and good wine.
Hayk admits it’s not easy getting Americans hooked on Bulgarian wine. But Hayk, who comes from an Armenian family and grew up in Moscow, has some experience with bridging cultures. He’s fluent in five languages and has worked at U.S. embassies in Armenia and Sofia. His love of Bulgaria’s people, history, and wine is addictive.
To gain ground in the American market, Bulgariana aims for value-driven wines. All of Bulgariana’s wines carry suggested price tags of $15 or less. The brand's $10 Cabernet Sauvignon has sold well at Total Wine in Virginia, Calvert-Woodley in DC and a slew of stores in Montgomery County, Maryland, Hayk said. I asked Hayk if Bulgaria’s portfolio would someday feature a Mavrud, an indigenous Bulgarian grape that can produce some spicy and tannic wines. Hayk said he’d like to work more with Mavrud in the future but market research hasn’t turned up much interest in this relatively obscure red grape. Overall, I have to say, it’s rare I find sub-$15 wines that have such character, those distinct little traits that tell the palate: “I come from somewhere special.”
My notes on Bulgariana’s wines...
2011 Bulgariana Thracian White Blend
Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $10
Very floral on the nose, like pungent wildflowers and honeysuckle, blended together with yellow apple and pear. Crisp acid kicks off the medium-bodied palate. The green and yellow apple fruit is mixed with white pepper and sage notes. A mineral aspect on the finish. Surprisingly fresh and complex. An all stainless steel blend of 60% Chardonnay, 20% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Riesling and 10% Gewürztraminer. (87 points)
2011 Bulgariana Sauvignon Blanc
Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $11
The green and yellow apple aromas are matched with white pepper, green olive and potpourri. Juicy mango and pineapple fruit blends with honey and herbal tones on the palate. There’s a lot going on here for $11. (86 points)
2011 Bulgariana Cabernet Sauvignon
Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $10
Aromas of bright berries and smoke. Juicy plum fruit mixes with tobacco and earth. No toast or cedar flavors in this stainless steel Cab. Medium tannins and acid provide enough structure. A near-term-drinker, but quite nice and crowd-pleasing. (85 points)
2008 Bulgariana Imperial Red Blend
Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $14
On the nose, plums and currants, along with interesting notes of red pepper and cocoa powder. Juicy red fruit on the palate with firm tannins and a medium amount of acid. I also get some notes of toast, mocha and spice rub. Bold and rich, but balanced. A blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% each of the Bulgarian varieties Mavrud and Rubin. (88 points)
2009 Bulgariana Cabernet Sauvignon & Syrah
Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $14
Lots happening aromatically: black currants, plums, black pepper and a shot of olive brine. Juicy black currant and blackberry fruit, held together with grippy tannins and medium acid that combine to form a velvety texture. I really enjoy the herbal, pepper and olive accents. (90 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
