Revisiting Some Delicious Arizona Wines

I've been visiting Arizona for 10 years now, and I feel like I'm just scratching the surface.

As an East Coaster, the desert wilderness intrigues me, and I spend as much time as possible out there in nature. 

Over the holidays, I spent a week in Arizona, and I got in some good hiking in the Superstition Wilderness, east of Phoenix. Although the weather was cold and rainy (for Arizona), and the conditions frequently challenging, I was rewarded with some epic views and great memories.

As a lover of many Arizona wines, I made an effort early in my trip to stock up on some wines from some of my favorite Arizona producers. I've visited Page Springs Cellars in the Verde Valley (and written about them here) and Dos Cabezas in Sonoita before (and written about them here). I always like checking in on these producers, and the batch of wines I picked offered lots of holiday deliciousness and cheer.

See my notes below...


2018 Page Springs Cellars Vino del Barrio Blanca - USA, Arizona
$16
Peachy, guava-rich nose with lychee and lots of flowers and honey. Medium-bodied, creamy texture but surprising acidity. Lots of rich, tropical fruit (white peach, guava, nectarine, lychee) with a good mix of yellow flowers, spicy mint and white pepper. Creamy and plump but also salty and bright. Lots of fun. A mix of Malvasia Bianca, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Vermentino, Colombard, Chardonnay, Roussanne and Ugni Blanc. (87 points)

2017 Page Springs Cellars Counoise Rosé House Mountain Vineyard - USA, Arizona
$28
Deep copper color. Subdued a bit on the nose, but does show some white flower and nettle notes on top of white peach and wild strawberry. Plump, punchy but crisp on the palate with fleshy strawberry and white cherry tones. Nice creaminess and acidity combination, and there’s a good dose of nettle, white pepper and oregano. Subtle and understated, but it’s quite pleasant. (87 points) 

2018 Page Springs Cellars Mule's Mistake - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
$16
Medium ruby color. The nose shows juicy cherries, strawberries, along with pepper, cinnamon, earthy and rose petal notes. Zesty and crisp with light tannins, I always love this wine’s fresh, zippy, red-fruited, spicy appeal. Tangy strawberry, red apple peel, with some pepper, mint, earthy tones. Bright, fun, energetic stuff. A fun, funky blend of Grenache, Carignan, Counoise, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Malvasia Bianca and Colombard. (88 points) 

2016 Page Springs Cellars El Serrano - USA, Arizona
$33
Bold nose of plums, black cherries and dark currants, along with black pepper, leather, cocoa, anise and magic marker. Medium-bodied (13%) with smooth but structured tannins, and fresh acidity. Plums, currants, black cherries, the food is generous but fresh, laced with smoky earth, pepper, anise, cocoa, roasted chestnut and violets. Yummy stuff for sure, but also complex and shows lots of depth. I’d love to see this in two years or so. (90 points) 

2014 Dos Cabezas Wine Works El Norte - USA, Arizona, Cochise County

$25
Warm and spicy aromas, smoky herbs, pepper, wet earth and creosote notes mix with cherries and raspberries. Juicy and smooth on the palate, rich but still fresh. Raspberries, plums and cherries, the fruit is suave and complex, and tossed well with earth, clay, pepper and sagebrush notes. Integrated, delicious, I love this wine. Mourvedre, Garnacha, Syrah, Petite Sirah and Counoise. (90 points) 

2018 Page Springs Cellars Vino de la Familia - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
$25
Juicy and plummy on the nose with black cherries, and roses, violets, clay, pepper and herbs. The acidity is really fresh on the palate, soft tannins, and tangy black cherry and plum fruit – the balance rocks. Roses, violets, sweet coffee, earth. Smooth, fun, balanced, inviting. Syrah, Petite Sirah, Teroldego, Malvasia Bianca. (88 points)

The Exceptional Blaye Wines of Chateau Mondesir-Gazin

Marc Pasquet surveys the barrel room at Chateau Mondesir-Gazin

I had heard of Chateau Mondesir-Gazin's reputation, but I had not previously tasted any of Marc Pasquet’s wines before. But these wines were easily some of the best wines I tasted on a week-long trip to Bordeaux this summer.

The wines show wonderful balance and vibrancy. They have this long-aging, old school aesthetic, like what I imagine early 1980s Bordeaux wines tasted when they were young. But they’re also really delicious and full of beautiful fruit. The blend each year is almost always the same, about two-thirds Merlot with the rest Malbec.

Attracted to the terroir, Marc Pasquet purchased the estate in 1990. He transitioned the vineyards — planted in clay and limestone soils on slopes overlooking the Gironde River estuary — to organic farming. The close proximity to this large river moderates weather extremes like frost and hail.

Owner/winemaker Marc Pasquet is such a genuine dude. I had a great tasting and lunch with him, sharing stories and hearing about his passion, not just for his wines, but for wines from all over the world. He travels extensively and seems genuinely stoked about what other winemakers are doing, even though his own wines are quite traditional in their approach.

I highly recommend these wines, and a visit if you’re ever in the area.

2015 Château Mondesir-Gazin - France, Bordeaux, Blaye
Inviting and warm on the nose with cherries, blackberries, plums, with tobacco, cedar, violets. Great concentration on the palate but balanced so well, tannins are solid but not harsh, vibrant acidity. Tangy and juicy red and black cherries. Lots of woodsy, floral tones, earthy, violets, an underlying rocky, mineral presence. This has an old school, long-aging feel to it. Beautiful stuff. (92 points)

2012 Château Mondesir-Gazin - France, Bordeaux, Blaye
Suave red and black currants on the nose, deep and concentrated fruit with violets, leather, cocoa and anise. Serious grip on the palate with moderate acidity, black cherries and crunchy red currants. I get lots of menthol, leather, pine forest, black tea notes. And there’s a lot of graphite and mineral elements. This needs a lot of time but is really good stuff. (91 points)

2009 Château Mondesir-Gazin - France, Bordeaux, Blaye
Deep and ripe on the nose, beautiful, concentrated black cherries, with violets, anise, chewing tobacco, minty-earthy tones. Solid grip still but the tannins have fined-down edges, medium acidity keeps it fresh. Tangy black currant and plum fruit mixes with earth, tobacco, violets, clove. Evolving so well, beautiful stuff, plenty of years ahead. One of my favorite wines of the trip. (93 points)

2005 Château Mondesir-Gazin - France, Bordeaux, Blaye
This is in a vibrant and lovely place. Nose shows red plums, red currant, with lots of savory tones (mushroom, mossy rocks, leaves) with leather and anise. But the wine is really alive and fresh – doesn’t smell tired at all. Serious grip still on the tannins with balanced acidity – this wine has a long time ahead. Red currants and cherries mix with complex notes of anise, pepper, leather. Balanced and lively, integrated well, and if stored properly a bottle of this should age well for another ten years. (93 points)

Finding Quality & Value in Sainte-Foy and Francs Côtes de Bordeaux

During a week-long trip to the Côtes de Bordeaux regions in July, I had the chance to meet winemakers from two of the smallest of the five appellations, Francs and Sainte-Foy.

Francs is home to about 40 winemakers, while Sainte-Foy only about 20. As I tend to find in smaller, lesser-heralded regions, the winemakers I met here seemed to have a cooperative spirit, an ethos that a rising tide of attention on the region's wines will lift all boats.

Most of the Côtes de Bordeaux wines are made in small quantities and sold within France itself. The value of these wines has been evident to me for years, and the wines feature prominently in shops and bistros throughout Bordeaux. Of the export market, China leads the way, followed by Belgium, while the United States comes in third.

The vineyards in Francs are spread among the rolling hills on the northern banks of the Dordogne River. Lots of limestone soils here fit the Merlot grape well, but Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 25% of red grapes, followed by Cabernet Franc. Semillon leads the pack of white grapes here.

Sainte-Foy is the smallest and newest of the Côtes de Bordeaux appellations, joining the union in 2016. East of the city of Bordeaux, along the Gironde River and near the mouth of the Dordogne River, the clay and limestone soils here support vibrant Merlots, along with a good amount of Cabernet Sauvignon. The vineyards are spread among the communes outside of the town of Sainte-Foy, and the average estate is about 20 acres.

During a lovely lunch at Chateau La Peyronie, located in the Francs Côtes de Bordeaux appellation, I had the chance to taste through a bunch of Sainte-Foy and Francs wines. Unfortunately, only a few of these wines seem to be available in the U.S. The price points (when available) are based on Wine-Searcher averages.

I'm hoping that I see more and more of these wines on U.S. shelves. The high quality, relatively low price points, and early-drinking appeal of many of these wines make them quite attractive.

My notes on the wines I tasted are listed below.


2018 Château Martet Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Entre-Deux-Mers, Sainte Foy Côtes de Bordeaux
$12

Aromas of apricot, orange, with lemongrass and white pepper. Very bright on the palate, but bountiful tropical fruit (grapefruit, peach, pineapple), with mineral, floral and chalky tones. Plush texture but fresh, very good stuff. Semillon with Sauvignon Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. (89 points)

2018 Château Puyanché Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux
$10
Creamy and inviting on the nose, apples, pears, honey. On the palate, this barrel-fermented wine stands out, but it’s also quite nuanced and vibrant. Creamy, plush and leesy, but there’s a talc, mineral and chalk essence that I really like. Eye-opening stuff for me. 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Semillon, started in stainless steel and aged seven months in barrel with lees stirring. Insane value here. (91 points)

2016 Château Franc Cardinal - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux
$14
Nose shows strawberries, cherries, roses, sweet smelling herbs. Smooth on the palate, light tannins, medium+ acid. Raspberry and strawberry-driven with earth, cola, coffee tones. Light and fresh fun style. Merlot with 24% Cabernet Franc and 4% Malbec aged eight months in French oak. (87 points) 

2016 Château Galouchey - France, Bordeaux, Entre-Deux-Mers, Sainte Foy Côtes de Bordeaux
Fresh strawberries and cherries on the nose. Light tannins, fresh acidity, juicy and fruity but easy-drinking with subtle earth and leather notes. Fun, simple, in a good way. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 12 months in French oak. (86 points)

2016 Château Coutelor La Romarine - France, Bordeaux, Entre-Deux-Mers, Sainte Foy Côtes de Bordeaux
Dark currants on the nose with bell pepper and roasted herbs. Bold tannins with fresh acidity, dark and crunchy currant fruit. Nuanced earth, coffee, pepper. Cabernet Sauvignon with 5% Merlot. (88 points)

2016 Château Laulan - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux
Cherry compote on the nose. Plush yet shows moderate tannins, with cranberry, strawberry, pepper and spice. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec aged 12 months in oak. (87 points)

2015 Château Godard Bellevue - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux
$20
Sweet and rich and saucy on the nose. All sorts of jammy fruits, plush texture and light tannins, low acidity. Jammy, forward style. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon aged 12 months in oak. (84 points)

2015 Château Le Prévot - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux

Juicy and dark aromas with sweet coffee, black pepper glaze. Rich and fruity with moderate tannins, fresh acidity, and tart currant fruit. Coffee, cocoa, pepper tones. Merlot with 10% apiece of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. (87 points)

2015 L'Eden de Lapeyronie J. F. Lapeyronie - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux
$28
Plummy, cherries, earth on the nose. Full and velvety on the palate with suave tannins and fresh acidity. Currants and plums mixd with cocoa, pepper and cedar. Well done. 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc aged in 30% new oak. (88 points)

2014 Château de Francs Les Cerisiers - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux
$15
Nose shows saucy red and black currants, cocoa, scorched earth. Plush feel, velvety tannins, this is a juicy, sweet plum-dominated wine with some interesting anise and roasted coffee tones. 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. (87 points)

2012 Château Moulin de Gueyraude - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux
Smells of plum cake, prunes and sweet black licorice candies. Tannins are smooth, medium acidity, with plums and prune fruit. Notes of coffee and black tea. Merlot with 10% apiece Cab Franc and Cab Sauv. (85 points)

2016 Château Lapeyronie - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
Sweet plums on the nose with roasted figs, cocoa and earth. Quite refined and fresh with juicy cherries and figs. Lovely acidity and freshness. Really vibrant, crisp, floral, but plenty of red fruits. (90 points)

2016 Château Tour de Goupin - France, Bordeaux, Entre-Deux-Mers, Sainte Foy Côtes de Bordeaux Liquoreux
Sweet honey and tennis balls on the nose. The palate is rich and unctuous, showing medium-low acidity, and flavors of apricot, orange marmalade. Sweet but seems a bit thin the same time? All Semillon from 50-year-old vines in clay and limestone soils. (85 points)

Adapting to a new climate reality in the Côtes de Bordeaux

Merlot vines at Chateau La Peyruche.

I was gearing up for a day of touring vineyards and tasting dry red wines in Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux, yet I felt anxious. The temperature reached 104 Farenheit the day I arrived, and I had been reading about the record-breaking high temperatures across Western and Northern Europe. Prone to heat exhaustion and missing my air conditioner at home, I hydrated feverishly, soaked my cooling towel and hung it around my neck, as I headed out for the day. It reached 108 degrees that July afternoon.

The intense heat wave passed halfway through the trip, as rain fell on these vineyards for the first time in more than a month. And while this was one for the books, bouts of extreme heat are becoming more commonplace.

Known for its iconic sense of history and tradition, Bordeaux winegrowers and vintners are reassessing how they operate in light of climate change. From picking grapes earlier, to altering their blends, to considering new grape varieties altogether, winemakers are utilizing different tools to brace for the impact of a much warmer climate.

To be clear, I felt no sense of panic from anyone I spoke with about this topic. Winemakers all over the world are struggling with how to adapt to climate change (some more than others), and when it comes to farming, change is constant.

But as I talked to people in the wine industry during a week-long trip, I found a stoic acceptance that climate change will drastically alter the landscape of Bordeaux wine. Adaptations are necessary, and well underway.

Earlier this summer, the Bordeaux winemaker’s syndicate voted unanimously to amend rules for the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur appellations, allowing for seven new grape varieties to be included for wines bottled under these appellations.

France’s National Institute for Agricultural Research has been testing dozens of grape varieties for years, to determine which might fare better in the hotter, drier climate to come. Among the new grape varieties are: Touriga Nacional (renowned grape of Portugal’s Douro Valley); Arinarnoa (a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat); and Marselan (a Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache crossing). White grapes like Petit Manseng and Albariño will also be permitted for white blends. These grapes may soon be included in these Bordeaux wines up to a combined 10% of the blend.

The move would only affect two appellations, but Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur make up about half of the wine produced in the entire region. The change still needs approval from the French government, so the process will take time. But this would be the first amendment to these appellation rules since the 1930s, and it demonstrates that Bordeaux winemakers are doing what they can to hedge their bets.

During my visit to the Côtes de Bordeaux (a group of appellations spread among the Entre-Deux-Mers and Right Banks) the shifting climate was a hot topic of discussion. All the winemakers I spoke with seemed to have a wait-and-see approach to planting these new grape varieties. While no one I spoke with voiced any objection to this move, neither was anyone chomping at the bit to plant Marselan — although one winemaker told me he had planted Albariño years earlier.

It’s too early to tell how vintners will weave these varieties into the larger quilt of Bordeaux wines. As I toured a new Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard on a scorching, sunny day, Bertrand Weisgerber (owner of Chateau La Peyruche in Cadillac) said he sees opportunity in having different options when planting or re-planting a vineyard. “It makes sense,” he said. “I think it’s a good time to try new things.”

Wine producers here have been adapting to climate change in their own ways for years and years, because they’ve been seeing the change in their vineyards first-hand. “The wine industry has been [one of the] first to face this challenge,” said Stéphane Apelbaum of Optimum Vineyard Management & Consulting. “It seems like we’re having two seasons instead of four.”

At Chateau Les Conseillans, in Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux, I tasted some beautiful Merlot-based wines and talked about the future of the grape. Here on the Right Bank of the Garonne, the early-ripening Merlot grape has long dominated, backed up by the other major Bordeaux grapes. But Apelbaum says, as the climate changes, he sees Merlot’s dominance fading.

Stephane Apelbaum at Chateau Les Conseillans.

Thirty-five years ago, he said, Merlot was often harvested fully ripe at levels that led to an alcohol content of about 12.5%. In current vintages, he said, Merlot grapes are being harvested with potential alcohol around 15% or higher. Merlot grapes can be picked even earlier (which many winemakers are already doing), but not too early, or you end up with bitter and unbalanced wines.

This Merlot dynamic is leading some winemakers in these Right Bank regions to focus more on grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, which can ripen more evenly in warmer temperatures. And other, non-traditional grapes may feature more in future red Bordeaux blends. Apelbaum mentioned interest in Tempranillo as an option, given that long-term projections of Bordeaux’s climate start to resemble those of some warmer regions in southern Spain. Other winemakers I spoke with showed interest in Portuguese reds as well.

The changing climate can pose difficulties for winemakers trying to create balanced wines, said Patrick Honnef of Côtes de Castillon’s Chateau Page. But his Merlot-based reds (especially the 2016), showed that fresh, vibrant Merlots are still alive and well. “I would not say there is panic, but a lot of work to do,” Honnef said, adding that he would soon be visiting southern Spain to meet with winemakers and discuss how they’re adapting to climate change.

Even a region with such storied history and winemaking tradition, growers and winemakers will have to evolve and adapt with this new climate reality. At the same time, I found passionate winemakers who want to continue making wines that represent their house’s history, style, and terroir.

“We still have to respect the Bordeaux style,” Apelbaum said. “But we must prepare. We must face this.”

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Bordeaux Newcomer Château Page is a Project to Watch

Patrick Honnef and Gerald Lecomte were neighbors before they were business partners. Patrick worked in the wine business while Gerald Lecomte came from the world of finance, and they would frequently spend time together, enjoying sports and drinking wine.

In 2011, they had hatched a plan to purchase a small vineyard and start their own winery. Chateau Page (which is a combination of the first two letters of their first names) is their cooperative project — and if you like suave, balanced Bordeaux, it’s a project to watch.

Patrick, who is German by birth, isn’t new to Bordeaux. He worked as technical director of Chateau d’Aiguilhe for 10 years. He also lives a good portion of the year in the ancient winemaking country of Georgia, where he oversees the viticulture at Chateau Mukhrani (whose wines I know and respect).

During a week of visiting winemakers in Bordeaux, I had the pleasure of meeting with Patrick and Gerald and tasting their wines. I had never heard of this very small producer before, but the wines showed a level of class and quality well beyond their humble beginnings.

The winery is located in the Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux appellation, which rises up from the banks of the Dordogne River and shares similar qualities to nearby Saint-Emilion. Patrick and Gerald’s vines (only about four acres) are located on a plateau with clay and limestone soils.

When they purchased the vineyard, it was in a sorry state, due to years of generous doses of herbicides and pesticides. Immediately, Patrick kicked off a transition to organic farming. While not common in Bordeaux, Castillon has a higher percentage (about 25%) of organic estates than most other appellations in Bordeaux. He says he saw change almost immediately. “The vines came back to life,” he said.

Their flagship wine is a blend of about 80% Merlot with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. In certain vintages they also produce a Page Noir, which is about 90% Cabernet Sauvignon. I tasted a few vintages of each wine, and really grew to appreciate their style. More old school in their earliest vintages, the wines had more pronounced dusty-earthy elements. While the wines seem even fresher and more refined in the 2016 vintage (which has quickly become one of my favorite recent Bordeaux vintages).

My notes on the wines I tasted are below. 

Patrick (left) and Gerald (right) of Chateau Page. Credit: Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux

2012 Château Page - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
Dark and saucy aromas, tangy black currants and cherries, with lots of earthy, smoky, peppery elements. Shows tannic guts on the palate, and there’s a lot of concentration in the blackberry and raspberry fruit, but the acidity is fresh. Notes of anise, graphite, smoke, this has an old school feel to it, like it needs a while to come around. The non-fruit elements are going to evolve into something beautiful, but there’s also enough delicious fruit to age as well. (91 points)

2013 Château Page - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
Saucy fruit, dark and plummy with violets, coffee, loamy earth. On the palate, this is dark and juicy with velvety tannins, more approachable than the 2012, moderate acidity keeps it lively, but this is a dark and juicy wine with a forward but fresh appeal. (89 points)

2014 Château Page - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
So pretty, wow, lots of violets, floral perfume, anise, pepper, on top of pure, juicy cherries. Great balance on the palate, medium-velvety tannins meet vibrant acidity. Tangy red plums and red and black cherries mix well with lots of earthy, soy, violets, and underlying notes of minerals and graphite. Elegant, complex, a very expressive 2014. (91 points)

2015 Château Page - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
Gorgeous dark fruits on the nose (all kinds of fruit), pure and juicy, with soy, leaves, pencil lead. Such intrepid balance on the palate with great tannic grip and vibrant acidity. Plums, blackberry and cassis, laced with lots of violets, loamy earth, pencil lead and charcoal. Long time ahead for this wine. Really impressive stuff. (93 points)

2016 Château Page - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
The nose is gorgeous, waves of dark fruit, with lots of soy, pencil lead, leaves, coffee. Beautiful balance between tannic grip and vibrant acidity on the palate. Plum, blackberry and cassis fruit, complex and crunchy with violets, loamy earth notes. Complex forest floor, anise, cedar. Great concentration, but also balance. Another beautiful 2016, but this was is really special. (93 points)

2012 Château Page Page Noir - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
Deep currants on the nose with lots of tobacco, pepper, leather. Serious grip to the tannins (this is a powerful and young wine) with medium/low acidity. Dark currant and tart plum skin flavors. I love the gravelly, earthy, tobacco notes. Still quite tight, but this is quite lovely and should do great things over the next five to ten years. (91 points)

2015 Château Page Page Noir - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
Beautiful core of blackberry and cassis on the nose, with mint, pepper, leather. Pure and fresh, built on solid tannic group but the acidity is fresh as well, and the wine has an effortless feel at this young age. Blackberry and currant, smooth but tangy fruits, laced with complex earth, cocoa, pepper, anise. The depth and balance are delightful. (93 points)

Celebrating Summer & Natural Wines with Maryland's Burnt Hill

I've grown tired of the term "natural wine."

When I first heard the term pop up a decade or so ago, usually among conversation with my dorky wine trade friends, it made some sense. It was used to describe a lot of the wines we all had liked for a long time: lower alcohol, no overt new oak, sometimes fizzy (Pet-Nat, for example), sometimes funky and quirky.

The winemakers who extolled this old-school, less technologically-focused aesthetic seemed like the kind of crunchy nerds I loved to hang out with. The focus on sustainability, biodynamics and other eco-conscious farming and winemaking methods has always resonated with me. And, of course, I found the wines to be delicious and fascinating.

But the term avoided definition or classification, and was used loosely and unsparingly. As the movement grew and garnered more and more attention in the culture, I noticed two loose camps begin to assemble.

The Natural Wine Evangelists seemed driven by levels of conviction and certainty that were beyond me. Now, I'm a semi-crunchy, organic-loving, biodynamic-supporting, nature-worshipping outdoorsman who really enjoys plenty of low-sulfite, extended skin contact, funky wines. But while I support low-intervention farming methods for environmental reasons, I'm unconvinced natural wines are any better for the human body. I have similar worries about the holier-than-thou attitude that seems to be a byproduct of the certain elements within the natural wine movement.

Then there are the Natural Wine Haters. They write off the entire movement as misguided, the wines as undrinkable, the natural wine-lovers as hipster lemmings. Their disdain for natural wines rivals the missionary zeal of the other side.

I'm not happy in either camp, although my sympathies lie with small producers trying to minimize their impact on the environment. But I find most of the discussion about what is and what is not "natural wine" and why it's good or bad to be exhausting. This is why I've written so little on the topic.

But I was beyond stoked to attend the inaugural Solstice Festival at Burnt Hill in Montgomery County, Maryland. This natural wine festival attracted me, first and foremost, because of the people behind it. I first wrote about Old Westminster Winery in 2016. I could tell Drew Baker and his sisters Ashli and Lisa were onto something great, and I was going to keep my eye on them.

When they broke ground on their new farm, Burnt Hill, and started talking about Maryland Gamay, I was all ears. Dave McIntyre at the Washington Post has a great, in-depth write-up on Burnt Hill in the Washington Post, which I won't attempt to reiterate because, well, he gets it all down pretty damn well here.

The Burnt Hill Crew teamed up with a few dozen low-intervention winemakers from all over the country (and world). They all gathered at a gorgeous farm in the rolling hills of Clarksburg, Maryland, to crack open bottles and spread positive wine vibes.

Only a cynical teetotaler could manage not to have a total blast at this festival. Hundreds of people gathered under large tents to taste unique and quirky wines of all different varieties and styles. I saw a few greased mustaches, but found nary a hint of pretension. I met up with some old friends, made a few new ones, and enjoyed supporting one of the Mid-Atlantic's most exciting wine producers.

Through it all, I managed to take a bunch of tasting notes on some delicious wines, which are included below. Enjoy! I sure did. And I can't wait to celebrate the Summer Solstice again at this festival in 2020.


Broc Cellars

2018 Broc Cellars Chenin Blanc Pétillant Shell Creek Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Yeasty, lots of fizz, pear, honey, dusty, tart lemon, some spice and herbal tones, Really delicious. (90 points)

2018 Broc Cellars Friulano amore bianco Fox Hill Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
Tropical, floral, peach nectar, tiny bubbles, lots of flowers and fruit, balanced nicely, a transparent style, and I love it. (91 points)

2017 Broc Cellars Cabernet Franc Whole Cluster - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
Juicy, cherries, plush, not too herbaceous, bright and spicy, whole-cluster fermented. (88 points)

Hiyu Wine Farm

N.V. Hiyu Apple Floreal Cider - USA, Oregon, Hood River County
Juicy, crunchy, fizzy, fun. (87 points)

2018 Hiyu Zinfandel Smockshop Band Rosé - USA, Oregon, Columbia Valley
Gorgeous cherry color. Rich texture, juicy raspberries, with spice and herbs. (89 points)

2018 Hiyu Grenache Smockshop Band - USA, Oregon, Columbia Valley
Spicy, earthy, strawberries, bright and fun, spicy and tangy with a charcoal and forest floor element. Very exciting. (91 points)

N.V. Hiyu The May II - USA, Oregon/Washington, Columbia Gorge
Deep auburn color. Shows caramel, spiced tea, tons of pepper and grilling spices, shows some tannins, some volatile acidity but it’s woven in nicely (kind of like Madeira) and the wine shows a lot of depth and intrigue. A blend of wines from five different vintages, skin-fermented Pinot varieties. A weird wine that actually really works out, and I’m a fan. (89 points)

Georgian wines

2017 Chona's Marani Mtsvane & Rkatsiteli - Georgia, Kakheti
Almond, hay, waxy, apricot, sea salt. (88 points)

2017 Chona's Marani Rkatsiteli - Georgia, Kakheti
Very perfumed, briny, big texture, spiced tea and ginger, mint and menthol elements, a really balanced but wild wine that I found really impressive. (90 points)

2018 Baia's Wine Tsolikouri - Georgia, West Georgia, Imereti
Quince, orange marmalade, super zippy with briny, salty complexities, and hay, waxy, honeyed notes. Really unique and fascinating, totally delicious, a real surprise and treat. (91 points)

2018 Gvantsa's Wine Aladasturi - Georgia, West Georgia, Imereti
Super spicy red with cherries, strawberries, lots of incense, potpourri, spiced tea, bitter black tea. Fun stuff with some unique spicy flavor profiles. (88 points)

2016 Naotari Rkatsiteli Kisi Khikhvi Amber Wine - Georgia, Kakheti, Kvareli
So briny, dusty, earthy, a bit heavy and bitter. Pass. A blend of Rkatsiteli, Kisi and Khikhvi. (80 points)

2017 Orgo Saperavi - Georgia, Kakheti
Dark tart, anise, incense sticks, tangy plum skins and pepper. Fun! (87 points)

California

2017 Matthiasson Chardonnay Harms Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
Salty and fresh with lemon crème, apricot. Pure, salty, a bit briny but lots of lush elements of honey and cream as well. Very pretty Chardonnay from Matthiasson, per usual. (91 points)

2018 Matthiasson Mataro Tendu - USA, California, Central Valley, Yolo County
Fresh, spicy, tangy, yet shows complexity. Vibrant red fruits with earthy, savory elements. Complex yet goes down so easily. (88 points)

2018 Matthiasson Tendu - USA, California
Barbera-based blend. Juicy, tangy but sweet cranberry sauce, raspberries, fun and fresh and crushable. (87 points)

2017 Matthiasson Grenache Syrah Mourvèdre - USA, California, Napa Valley
So fresh and floral with tangy red fruits and lots of pepper, potpourri, grilled herbs. Juicy but it’s really complex and spicy as well. (90 points)

Lightwell Survey

2016 Lightwell Survey Cabernet Franc The Weird Ones Are Wolves - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
Crushable, punchy, juice, nice floral, spice, tea elements. Has dashed of Petite Manseng and Riesling in it. Pretty cool stuff. (88 points)

2018 Lightwell Survey Blaufränkisch Dark Days - USA, Virginia
Really dark ruby color. Lots of fun, fresh, juicy strawberries and floral, spicy tones. 100% Blaufränkisch. (87 points)

2016 Lightwell Survey Hintermen - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
Peachy, tennis ball, magnolia flowers on the nose. Floral and juicy on the palate with super ripe peach, drizzled with lime, a mineral-rocky undertone. Really fun and cool stuff. Riesling and Petite Manseng. (89 points)

Fausse Piste

2018 Fausse Piste Muscat Fish Sauce Pet-Nat - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills
Spicy, floral, punchy, fine bubbles, really fresh. (88 points)

2018 Fausse Piste Oyster Sauce Grenache Rosé - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Rogue Valley
Grenache rose. Fresh cherries and strawberries, racy acidity. (89 points)

N.V. Fausse Piste Pizza Sauce - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
Zesty, cherry-driven, accessible but has this complexity of texture and flavors from the aging and solera-style of this wine. Easy-drinking in the best sense of the word, but a lot of fun, too. A multi-vintage blend of all sorts of red (and some white) grapes. (90 points)

Scholium Project

2015 Scholium Project La Severità di Bruto Farina - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
Deep texture, rich fruit (orange, lemon, peach) with spicy herbal tones. Vibrant and impressive. (89 points)

2016 Scholium Project The Prince In His Caves Farina - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
Lemon, peach, honey, waxy notes, some mint and white pepper. This has some skin-contact that gives it a lot more textural depth and some cool olive oil and almond elements. (90 points)

2016 Scholium Project 1MN Bechtold Ranch - USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi
So aromatic with rose potpourri, pepper, clove, warm clay, tangy red apple and raspberry fruit. Gorgeous texture, dusty tannins, crisp acidity, crunchy red fruits laced with all sorts of earthy, savory complexities. A beautiful Bechtoldt vineyard that should do interesting things with age. Wine of the festival for me. (93 points)

Purity

2018 Purity Wine Verdelho Silvaspoons - USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi
Whoa! No formal notes, but this wine wowed me and kept me at this table to try the others. (90 points)

2018 Purity Wine Roussanne Orange Carbo-Crush Oakstone - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Nevada County
So, this is really fun. Skin-fermented, semi-carbonic Roussanne – and it works! Texturally deep but fresh, with a pleasant bitterness and lots of complex spicy, floral tones. Fascinating and, yeah, weird, but it works. I bought a bottle to blind some wine nerds on and mess with them. (91 points)

2016 Purity Wine Grenache Covfefe Oakstone Vineyard - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Nevada County
So spicy, tangy, nice grip. Tart fruits with lots of pepper and earth and a fun but not overwhelming amount of funky, beefy notes. (87 points)

2015 Purity Wine Syrah Blackbird - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
Stewed plums, incense sticks, black pepper, mulling spices. A warm and roasted kind of Syrah, but still nice. (86 points)

Much to Discover in the High Desert Wines of Southern Arizona

Surreal scenery outside Sonoita, Arizona.

As an East Coaster, I didn’t see a proper American desert until I first traveled to Arizona in 2010. Immediately, I became obsessed with this state and all its extreme natural beauty. With few expectations, I also dove deep into the wine scene, and found some dynamic producers making delicious wines.

Many of the wines I enjoyed most hailed from the Southeast of Arizona, the Cochise County area, which abuts Mexico and New Mexico. The state’s only American Viticultural Areas are located here, Sonoita and Willcox. This is also where the modern Arizona wine industry began, when soil scientist Dr. Gordon Dutt founded Sonoita Vineyards in 1983 after an experimental vineyard showed promise. I recently visited the region for the first time and encountered a beautiful land of high desert plains, rugged mountains, wide open space, and exciting wines.

Yes, Arizona is hot and dry. But the diversity in microclimates, soil types, winegrapes, and winemakers tells a much more complex story. Geologic maps of Arizona are dizzying, and the area has an abundance of rocky, sandy soils, limestone, clay, giving winegrowers many great options to work with.

The Pronghorn Vineyard. Credit: Dos Cabezas

Most of the vineyards in Southeast Arizona are planted around 4,300-5,000 feet in elevation. This leads to serious temperature swings, allowing grapes to ripen in the sun and heat, and maintain acidity as the nighttime temperatures drop. During my visit to Sonoita in February, I woke up to 18 degrees Fahrenheit after driving through snow-covered mountains, their peaks sometimes hidden above the clouds. The day after I left, six inches of snow fell, which goes to show how variable and extreme conditions can be.

To start off my visit, I met Todd Bostock, winemaker at Dos Cabezas, a producer I’ve grown to respect. We met on a cold, sunny day in Sonoita, and I tasted through his wines and chatted about what he’s up to these days at his winery. And he’s up to a lot of awesome stuff.

The late Arizona winegrower Al Buhl started Dos Cabezas in 1995. Todd, who started home winemaking early before studying with UC Davis’ extension program, took a winemaking job at Dos Cabezas in 2002. The Bostock family took control over the project in 2006. 

Todd Bostock in the Dos Cabezas barrel room.

Todd farms 37 acres in Willcox’s Cimarron Vineyard, which sit at 4,300 feet. This fascinating vineyard is home to seven white grape varieties (from Albarino to Viognier) and 17 red grapes (from Aglianico to Vranec). The 15-acre Pronghorn vineyard, in Sonoita, sits at 4,800 feet and is home to ten different grape varieties.

As such, Dos Cabezas is all about the blends. There’s a lot of vintage variation in this part of the country, and lots of weather difficulties, including early and late frosts, hail, so having access to a wide array of grapes gives Todd freedom to tweak the makeup of his wines each vintage. 

You can tell a lot about a wine nerd by what empty bottles they keep around on shelves or cabinets. In Todd’s barrel room, I saw a diverse selection and epic bottles, but it was the Chateauneuf wines (from several of my favorite producers) that stood out. And that Chateauneuf ethos of blending all sorts of different grapes comes through in Todd’s wines. 

Like many winemakers I’ve met over the years, Todd seems driven to experiment. For example, he makes a Ramato-style, skin-fermented Pinot Grigio. I tasted a Madeira-style fortified desert wine, which gets the whole treatment of oxygen and blistering Arizona summer heat. 

Todd is also working on a solera-style sparkling wine, which so far includes wine from three vintages. It’s a quirky blend of Tempranillo, Grenache and Riesling, and the barrel sample he poured me was delightfully bright, zesty, floral, with sea salt and chalky notes. The finished wine should be something special.

To get a handle on the heights that varietal wines can achieve in Southeast Arizona, look no further than Rune wines. Rune founder James Callahan embodies the DIY spirit that attracted me to Arizona and its wines. With the goal of making due with what he had, James built his Sonoita winery and tasting room by hand, laying the concrete himself. He stores his wines in temperature-controlled trucking containers, which he ordered off Craig’s List. His winery is off the grid, fully solar-powered, and rustic, but it is home to some pristine and beautiful wines.

James worked harvests in Walla Walla, Washington and Wairarapa, New Zealand, before landing a job at the Sonoma Pinot powerhouse Kosta-Browne. A native of Arizona, he was excited to come home for a winemaking job with Willcox-based Aridus. He then struck off on his own with Rune in 2013, and he works as a consulting winemaker for other producers as well.

James sources his a lot of his fruit from Pillsbury Vineyard in the Willcox region, which he calls, “truly a petri dish of wine industry growth.” He also recently planted a vineyard near his winery in Sonoita. In the winery, James uses native yeasts to craft small lot varietal wines from Rhone grapes. 

The entrance to Rune wines in Sonoita, AZ.

I hadn’t tasted a single Rune wine before my trip, but I was blown away by the quality of these wines. If you’re skeptical that Roussanne and Viognier wines from Arizona can be fresh, bright and balanced — I was — may I present these wines.

Unfortunately, I was unable to meet up with well-known Arizona vintner Kent Callaghan of Elgin-based Callaghan Vineyards during my trip, whose wines I’ve tasted and enjoyed in the past. This producer dates back to 1990, during what must’ve been a really gutsy time to plant a vineyard in Southeast Arizona. Right after planting his Buena Vista Vineyard in 1990, Arizona experienced a tremendous heatwave that led to the closure of the Phoenix airport for a few days, and the death of many a young vine. But, since then, Callaghan has been producing some lovely wines based on classic Mediterranean grapes from France and Spain. I would be remiss to leave these wines out of this report, so Kent sent me a case to taste, including some library vintages.

Lastly, I’ve included some wines from Aridus in this report as well. Located in Willcox, this producer has been getting some attention lately, and they’ve even opened a tasting room in bustling Old Tow Scottsdale. It’s worth a visit if you’re in that area for a while.

I’ve included a lengthy list of tasting notes from my trip below. The Dos Cabezas and Rune wines were tasted with the winemakers, while I tasted the Callaghan and Aridus wines sighted, at home. Most of the wines are available directly from the producers, or a handful of select wine shops in Arizona. Since these wines are made in small amounts, finding them outside of the state can be difficult. Another reason why a trip is a good idea.

Dos Cabezas

2018 Dos Cabezas Wine Works White Cimarron Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County
$19
This Cimarron vineyard has a kitchen sink of white varieties planted, and this wine captures a lot of them: 38% Picpoul Blanc, 22% Viognier, 16% Roussanne, 10% Malvasia, 7% Albariño, 7% Grenache Blanc. It’s a fascinating and expressive wine that offers a panoramic picture of the vineyard through all these grapes. I get aromas of peaches, limes, lemon peel, green melon, all sorts of flowers. The palate is pure and vibrant with a waxy texture but bright acidity. Peaches, lemon curd, papaya — tropical meets citrus in just the right amounts, with notes of sea salt, almond, complex floral notes. Balanced, complex, vibrant. (90 points)

2017 Dos Cabezas Wine Works El Campo Blanco Pronghorn Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County
$30
This is a fascinating blend of Roussanne, Viognier, Picpoul, whole-cluster pressed, 12 months in Austrian oak. These grapes are harvested in two stages, an early harvest and a second one weeks later. The aromas pop with peaches, apples, pineapple, white tea. Plump texture, yet (again with these wines) that crisp acidity keeps it lively. Apples, peaches, lemon, mixed with sea salt, almond, some herbal and chalky elements. Really impressive stuff. (91 points)

2018 Dos Cabezas Wine Works Pink - Arizona, Cochise County
$19
Another interesting blend, this one has 50% Garnacha, 20% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre, 10% Graciano, and 5% Piquepoul Blanc. Fermented in tank, old 500 liter barrels, and a new 1,500 liter Austrian foudre. Smells of all sorts of wildflowers, verbena, wild cherries and strawberries. Crisp acidity frames the wine, it’s bright but shows nice depth of texture. Strawberries, wild cherries, red apple peel, along with spicy herbs, rose petals, verbena and tobacco elements. A seriously good rosé. They also release a carbonated, canned version that is a ton of fun. (89 points)

2014 Dos Cabezas Wine Works El Norte Cimarron Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County
$30
A blend of Mourvèdre and Grenache that spends 24 months in large oak barrels. Age has done this well, and more time will continue that trend. The aromas boast warm spices (clove, pepper, bay leaf and creosote) with red cherries, raspberries and red apple. The palate is warm and inviting yet vibrant with light/medium tannins and moderate acidity. Juicy, tangy red plums and cherries, with a complex, well-integrated blend of spicy pepper, clove, bay leaf, warm clay. Vibrant yet deep, this could age for a while. (90 points)

2015 Dos Cabezas Wine Works Toscano - Arizona, Cochise County
$30

A blend of 55% Sangiovese, 21% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Aglianico, 7% Petit Verdot, aged two years in oak barrels. Lovely aromas of berry compote, spiced black tea, pepper, cedar, chewing tobacco and mint. The palate is full and velvety with medium acidity and lots of plums and cherry fruit. Rich yet bright, juicy but complex, with lots of leathery, peppery, herbal tones. I’d love to see what this does in the next three or four years. (90 points)

2012 Dos Cabezas Wine Works El Campo Pronghorn Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County
$50
Tempranillo and Mourvedre with Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah and Graciano, aged two years in new French oak. Lots of spicy aromas of bay leaf, pepper, creosote, leather, which play well with the juicy, bright red fruits. On the palate, this is vibrant and spicy with integrated tannins and fresh acidity. Red cherries and plums play well with cocoa, earth, leather, warm clay, creosote, cedar. Complex and delicious with lots of time ahead. This is a beautiful blended expression of Pronghorn goodness. (92 points)

2014 Dos Cabezas Wine Works Aguileon - Arizona, Cochise County
$30
49% Tempranillo, 30% Graciano, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petite Sirah. Smells like warm cherries and plums, tobacco, clove, coffee, clay and earthy notes. On the palate, it’s full and rich, with some grippy structure, but the acidity moderates nicely. Plums, black cherries, the fruit is full but tangy, laced with earthy/spiccoffee, cedar, pepper and olive notes – the complexity is nuts. This could use at least a few years in the cellar, but it’s still highly delicious right now. (91 points)

2015 Dos Cabezas Wine Works La Montaña - Arizona, Cochise County
$50
Petite Sirah, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine has a dark core of aromas (blackberry and back cherry compote) with clove, coffee, anise, pepper and creosote notes. Full and saucy on the palate with nice grip and medium/low acidity. Plum cake and blackberry compote mix nicely with anise, clove, dark chocolate, espresso, cedar. This is rich and deep but also earthy and spicy. I’d like to see what this does in three or four years. (91 points)

Rune

James Callahan (background) and I tasting his exceptional Rune wines.

2017 Rune Wines Rosé - Arizona, Cochise County, Willcox
$20
Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Petite Sirah, and Graciano. Saigneé method, fermented in stainless steel and a French oak puncheon. Pretty pink color. Aromas show spicy pepper and wildflowers on top of cherries and strawberries. This is fresh and zippy on the palate with a lovely, deep texture and mouthfeel. Strawberries, white cherries, topped in white pepper with some chalky, crusty, mineral notes. This is a serious pink. (90 points)

2017 Rune Wines Viognier Pillsbury Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County, Willcox
$28
Lovely aromas of peaches, green melon, guava, lemon, lots of flowers, too. The palate is plump and lees-stirr-y and round yet super crisp, and there's a lively mineral streak throughout that I really like. Pure and vibrant, which is not something I say often about a Viognier, but I love these honey, floral complexities, the vibrant and deep fruit. I'd like to see how this ages over the next five years. One of the best Viogniers I've had from anywhere in a long time. Fermented in stainless steel and old French oak. (92 points)

2016 Rune Wines Mourvedre Pillsbury Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County, Willcox,
$32
This is a really cool wine that is co-fermented with 3% Symphony, aged 20 months in neutral French oak. The nose is juicy with cherries and red plums, along with pepper, leather, paprika and other cool stuff going on. Juicy and cherry-driven on the palate with plums and raspberries, lots of spiced tea, herbs, pepper. There’s a mineral depth here as well that makes this wine pop. (92 points)

2016 Rune Wines Wild Syrah Pillsbury Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County, Willcox
$45
This Cote-Rotie-style Syrah is co-fermented with Viognier and some Malvasia. It’s saucy and dark on the nose, black cherries and plums, laced with pepper, herbs, cocoa, violets and earth. Full and grippy on the palate but vibrant acidity, and the balance is superb. Juicy, full with black cherries and dark plums but the fruit has a tangy edge. Complex notes of spicy herbs, pepper, leather, cocoa and coffee. Lots going on here. I bought a few bottles to bury for a few years, because this will do more in the cellar. (92 points)

2016 Rune Wines Petite Sirah Pillsbury Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County, Willcox
Nose shows surprising red fruits for a Petite Sirah – yeah there’s blackberry jam and such but also some juicy red plums and raspberries, with roses, violets, coffee. Serious grip on the tannins, this is a young wine, with medium acidity which helps keep the tannins in check. Plum cake, blackberry and raspberry am, along with smoky herbs, pepper, spiced tea, black olives. For a PS, this is almost “elegant” in a way, yet still seriously grippy. Really curious what this does with four or five years. (90 points)

2016 Rune Wines Grenache Pillsbury Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County, Willcox
$28
This wine totally blew me away – the eye-opening wine of the trip. Nose shows bright and juicy cherries, strawberries, all sorts of airy, floral notes, herbs, lavender, pepper. On the palate this is juicy but smooth, delicious but really fresh, and the acidity is impressive. Bright cherry fruit topped in dusty, earthy, pepper, sage, all sorts of complexities. This is such a pretty Grenache that will age well, and I think it’d be a great ringer in a Chateauneuf tasting. Just wow. (93 points)

2014 Rune Wines Wild Syrah Pillsbury Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County, Willcox
$45
Aromas of dark and juicy plums with earthy, peppery notes, iron and herbs. Still tannic and strong but it has some velvety feel to it, and bright acidity. Plums and dark cherries mix well with smoky herbs, coffee, leather, sage, warm clay, and some flower pot and violet petal notes. Wow, this has a lot of cellar time ahead, too. Beautiful stuff. Co-fermented with 3% Viognier. (93 points)

Callaghan

2017 Callaghan Dry Grenache Rosé - Arizona, Sonoita
$25
Bright pink color. Super floral on the nose with lots of spicy, herbal, rhubarb notes, along with white cherries and wild strawberries. Plump texture on the palate, mild acidity, this is fruity and fun with white cherries, strawberries, raspberries, red apple peel. Notes of white pepper, roses, spiced white tea. This is fun, fan-friendly stuff. (86 points)

2017 Callaghan Love Muffin - Arizona
$28
Deep yellow color. Nose pops with lychee, pineapple, melon, along with lots of orange blossom, honeysuckle and sweet perfume. Plump and waxy texture on the palate, medium/low acidity offers a bit of freshness. Pineapple, lychee, so tropical, with lots of orange blossom, honeysuckle, nettle, white tea and nougat. Fun, forward, rich white blend. (86 points)

2017 Callaghan Grenache Rhumb Line - Arizona, Cochise County
Medium ruby color. Aromas of red apples, raspberry and strawberry jam, along with rhubarb, cinnamon sticks and rose hips. Full-bodied, smooth tannins, medium acidity, packed with tart but jammy notes of strawberries, raspberries and candied red apple. Complex notes of sage, white pepper, sweet cola, rhubarb, with some cedar and espresso. Fun and forward but also lively and complex. Impressive stuff. (90 points)

2013 Callaghan Padres - Arizona, Sonoita
Deep ruby/light purple color. Rich aromas of plums, a compote of raspberries, cranberries and red currants, topped in cinnamon, herbal tea and cocoa. Full-bodied with a velvety feel to the tannins, a big bold red but medium acidity helps. Saucy cranberries, currants, figs and raspberry jam, along with sweet herbs, cocoa, cinnamon, roasted chestnut. Bold and chewy but well-done, a log of depth and complexity here. 62% Graciano, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Tannat. (89 points)

2016 Callaghan Padres - Arizona, Sonoita
Deep ruby/light purple color. Bold aromatics of sweet plums, raspberry jam, cherry pie, with cocoa, cola and spiced tea. Full-bodied with a plump and chewy feel medium tannins, medium acidity, the balance is quite nice. Sweet plums, raspberries and fig paste topped in roasted cocoa, sweet herbs, some nice earthy notes. A red for rich foods and a snowstorm! 65% Graciano, 17% Petite Verdot, 9% Tempranillo, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. (88 points)

2013 Callaghan Caitlin's - Arizona, Sonoita
Light purple color. Nose boasts rich plums, currants, fig paste, with violets, sage, menthol and earth. Full-bodied (15.3%) with velvety tannins and surprising acidity. Juicy and generous with its dark currant and black cherry fruit mixed with savory tones, grilled herbs, cracker pepper, menthol and vanilla. Fuller than the 2016 but it’s also settled down nicely and the balance is impressive. 64% Petite Verdot, 25% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc. (89 points)

2016 Callaghan Caitlin's - Arizona, Sonoita
$45
Light purple color. Nose shows currants, black cherries, fig paste, along with eucalyptus, sweet coffee, anise, cedar. Plush texture on the palate but some significant grip to the tannins, while surprising acidity keeps it lively. Tart currants laced with smoky herbs, menthol, black pepper and cocoa. Rich and saucy yet it maintains brightness. 67% Petite Verdot, 33% Cabernet Franc. (88 points)

2015 Callaghan Aglianico Cimarron - Arizona, Cochise County
Deep purple color. Nose shows rich plums, blueberries, blackberries, this is dark and deep with milk chocolate, roasted chestnut. Full (15.3%) and plush with a velvety feel, although the tannins provide structure. Packed with hedonistic black fruit, and lots of it, but it’s also nicely mixed with coffee, cocoa, charcoal and mint. Bigger, more intense than the 2016, but really good. I’d like to see this in a few years. (88 points)

2016 Callaghan Aglianico Cimarron - Arizona, Cochise County
Bright purple color. Whoa, the nose is packed with fruit (jammy blueberries and blackberries, roasted fig) with some cocoa and sweet vanilla. Full-bodied (14.7%) with chewy tannins and medium-low acidity. Cherries, fig cookies and blackberries, tons of fruit but it’s complemented by earth, clove, charred herbs, creosote and warm clay notes. Complex, unique, this should age nicely. (89 points)

2013 Callaghan Tannat - Arizona, Sonoita
Rich purple color. Smoky nose of roasted figs, black currants and black cherry compote, along with anise and charcoal. Full-bodied on the palate with a velvety feel, medium acidity. Tart plums and plump black cherries, smooth and dark fruit, laced with anise, cocoa, sage, herbal tea. Really smoky and roasted, but fun stuff. (87 points)

2016 Callaghan Tannat - Arizona, Sonoita
$35
Deep purple color. Dark and inky on the nose (blackberries, currant paste, plum compote) with smoky menthol, anise and charcoal elements. Full-bodied, grippy tannins, the acidity here is surprisingly tangy and really balances things out nicely. Black currants and dark plums, tangy, dark and suave, along with coffee, charcoal, anise, with black pepper, tar, vanilla and magic marker. Deep but tangy and complex, I’d love to see this in four or five years. (89 points)

2017 Callaghan Tannat Rhumb Line - Arizona, Cochise County
Dark purple color. Nose boasts black cherries, roasted figs, blackberries, laced with smoke, charcoal, magic marker, sweet coffee and vanilla bean. Strong tannic backbone but a chewy feel, too, with moderating acidity. Saucy and rich with dark, deep black fruit (loads of it), backed up with charcoal, espresso, mint, earthy-mineral tones. Lots going on here, but this could use some time in the cellar. (88 points)

Aridus

2017 Aridus White Field Blend - Arizona, Willco
SRP: $28

Light yellow color. Aromas pop with pineapple, guava and lemon, topped in bright floral tones and some dusty, chalky notes. Light-bodied but nice depth on the palate, juicy yet light and brisk, this goes down so easily. Lemons, pineapple, green apples, topped in floral tones, crushed sweet tart candies, chalk, white pepper. Surprisingly brisk for a Viognier-based blend from Arizona – this is a serious patio pounder kind of wine. A low 11.0% alcohol, this is the first harvest from a new estate vineyard, and this wine is a field blend of Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Malvasia Bianca. (87 points)

2016 Aridus Syrah - Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $37
Bold purple color. Aromas of smoky earth, violets, pepper, black tea, with plum cake and roasted fig. Burly on the palate yet velvety with medium/low acidity, enough to balance it out. Dark and saucy with black cherries, dark currants, roasted fig, mixed with clove, pepper, sage. Big, saucy, barbecue-friendly stuff. Co-fermented with 17% Viognier, aged 19 months in oak. (87 points)

2016 Aridus Graciano - Arizona, Willcox
SRP: $37
Light ruby color. Smells of raspberries, strawberries, spicy rhubarb, white pepper, sage, clay, earth. Medium-tannins on the palate with bright acidity and tangy raspberries and cherries. Balanced and vibrant, structured but accessible and fresh. Complex notes of spicy herbs, dried rose petals, pepper and clove. Apparently, Graciano does well here, because they nailed this. Aged 18 months in a mix of French and American oak. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.