Summery selections from Oregon's Troon Vineyard

Lately, it’s been so hot and humid I haven’t thought much about wine. But it’s also the Fourth of July, making it a perfect time to highlight one of my favorite American producers. And – bonus – these offerings from Troon are perfect Summery selections, offering brightness and gulpability while delivering serious complexity and staying power.

If you haven’t heard of Troon, I’ve been a big fan for years. Located in the unique terroir of Southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley, they’re a biodynamic purveyor or distinct grapes and blends. And they’re always pushing the envelope, trying something a bit different, while paying homage and respect to Old World grapes and traditional methods and styles. Like the ancient method of fermenting grapes with native yeasts outdoors in clay vessels – amphorae. Troon’s work with this method has yielded some exciting and dynamic wines.

They fit very well in this lane, and offer curious and adventurous wine drinkers many options. I have yet to taste a Troon wine that didn’t win me over, so I’m pretty confident everyone can find something they love in their lineup.

And if you’re looking to stock up on some wines for hot weather, these three options won’t disappoint. These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2023 Troon Vineyard Ascendant Amber - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Medium copper color. So cool and spritely on the nose with an infusion of orange and lemon peels, dried pineapple chunks, and plenty of white flowers, white pepper, and crunchy sea salt. The palate sports a crisp and zesty appeal with lovely textural depth from the amphorae, and a pristine balance. Limes, nectarine, orange peel, and dried pineapple mix well with elements of floral perfume, wild green herbs, and sea breeze. Crisp, deep, complex, mouth-watering, and very interesting! 46% Vermentino, 29% Viognier, and 25% Grenache Blanc, harvested and fermented separately in amphorae with native yeasts and about 30% whole cluster. (92 points)

2024 Troon Vineyard Glou-Glou - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $30
Dark pink color. Such a lovely and spritely nose of watermelon, papaya, quince, along with dandelion, roses, and white pepper. The palate is crisp and inviting with zesty acidity and a medium-bodied frame with a slight spritz. Red apples, papaya, strawberries, the crunchy fruit blends well with tones of rose petals, chalk dust, floral perfume, and subtle pepper and nettle tones. Flinty, lively, crisp, and clean. Made from co-fermented 52% Cinsault and 48% Grenache in a blanc de noirs style. Is it a dark rosé? A light red? Whatever it is, it’s a crushable nouveau-style wine that’s complex and absolutely delicious with a little chill. (90 points)

2023 Troon Vineyard Mourvèdre Amphora - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley

SRP: $65
Rich purple color. The nose shows saucy plums, dark cherries, red and black currants, even some raspberry. With the fruit I get tones of spiced black tea, clove, bay leaf, tilled soil, anise, and some rocky, graphite elements. The palate shows delightfully crisp acidity and dusty tannins frame the wine nicely, making for a wonderfully balanced wine. Black cherries, dark plums, and red/black currant fruit (all tangy and rich) blend with menthol, violets, rose hips, and pepper. Complex, balanced, and a ton of fun. Made from 30% whole-cluster Mourvedre fermented outdoors in amphorae for 18 days with native yeast. A unique and exceptional Mourvedre. (93 points)

An "orange" wine for Autumn and Halloween

Orange wine has been on the rise in terms of availability and popularity for a long time now. When I first started getting into wine about 15 years ago, it was really hard to find orange wines. I was scoping out wines from northern Italy, Georgia, and Spain to find odd but delightful skin-fermented wines. Some of them were a bit, as I like to say, “feral” for the average palate – bracing, taut, spicy, volatile, sometimes overly earthy or just wild. And while I still like some of those orange wines, the accessibility and diversity of these wines has grown with their popularity. And I think that’s a good thing.

Isn't Autumn great? Rock Creek Park, Washington, DC. October 27, 2023

Basically, an “orange” wine is generally a “white” grape that spends some duration of time in contact with the skins, a process which extracts colors and other textural elements similar to how one makes a “red” wine. Just like white wines aren’t white, orange wines aren’t orange. Like a diverse deciduous forest at this time of year, orange wines come in all sorts of fascinating colors.

I recently tasted a wine that sums up what I’m trying to say about orange wines. It’s delicious, accessible, but has a lot of interesting characteristics. And its price makes it a great place to start diving into the world of orange wines. From Kivelstadt Cellars, I have a single-vineyard, skin-fermented Pinot Grigio from a single vineyard in California’s Clarksburg appellation, beside the Sacramento River. I visited this area near Sacramento a few years ago, and was impressed by the diversity of old vines and different varieties, and I fell in love with the old school California, blue collar, farming scene, one that produces legit wines. Pinot Grigio is a great grape for skin contact, the this “gray” grape’s skin provides a lot of depth, flavor, and color to extract. This wine was macerated on the skins for 13 days, then pressed and fermented in old oak for six months.

This wine was received as a sample and tasted sighted.

2022 KivelStadt Cellars Skin-Fermented Pinot Grigio Wayward Son Pintail Ranch - USA, California, Central Valley, Clarksburg
$35
A deep copper/watermelon. The nose exudes a mix of watermelon rind, cantaloupe, limes, with chunky pineapples, mixed with cool tones of white flowers, sea salt, chalk dust, and some honey vibes. The palate is ripe and vibrant with flavors of white cherries, raspberries, strawberries, and orange peels. The fruit is accented with tones of rhubarb, floral perfume, celery seed, watermelon candy, honeyed tea, all sorts of cool flavors and textures to enjoy and parse through. Lots of fun, food-friendly, and a great wine to bring to a Halloween party. (90 points)

Wine reviews: International grab bag

I’m here this week with a roundup of selections from across the globe, with some wines focused around diversity and value.

I can’t believe it’s been nine years since I spent three weeks in South Africa. Those experiences come back to me in memories all the time, from the wildlife and landscapes, big scary waves, and delightful wines tasted and wineries visited. I’ve kept up with the scene from afar since, and I’ve enjoyed watching a new generation of winemakers making a name for themselves and producing expressive, interesting wines. I think there’s an audience for well-made, diverse South African wines in the U.S. – I count myself among them – so I’m always happy to see what’s going on. This week, I have an update on three different skin contact wines that really deliver.

There are some bold, juicy, grill-friendly but complex reds from Spain in this report as well, all three of which offer solid value. From Tuscany, I have a $15 duo from Carpineto that would be a great summer sipper or a nice choice for a by-the-glass list.

And if you’re looking for value in Bordeaux (not an easy task), the Cru Bourgeois wines fit the bill. These tend to be Merlot-heavy wines and offer a more accessible, but still serious and in-depth take on this classic region. The wines don’t cost a lot and there’s a lot of opportunity to venture out and find different options.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Wine reviews: International grab bag

Spring is in full swing, and this week I have a mix of value-driven, bright, fun wines that offer a lot of diversity and appeal for the season.

Since I first started getting into wine, I’ve been a big fan of Picpoul de Pinet from France’s Languedoc region. The value from this region is excellent, and the wines combine warm weather tropical depth with oceanic zesty vibes. For shellfish and warm days, the two wines in this report would fit the bill perfectly.

Australia’s Yalumba has been on my radar for many years, as they consistently produce a wide range of quality wines. Their Y Series is a partnership with Re:wild, which helps preserve land and protect biodiversity. It also helps that the wines are inexpensive and delicious.

I also have a delightful amber wine from Oregon’s Troon – who continues to produce interesting wines that push boundaries. I round things out with a quality rosé from Sonoma-Cutrer, a spring-friendly Port, and a complex, age-worthy Rioja.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Yalumba Chardonnay The Y Series Unwooded – Australia, South Australia
SRP: $14
Light yellow color. Peachy keen nose with lemon and lime zest, yellow apples, along with honeysuckle, hay and honeycomb – a bright a breezy appeal. The palate is light and bright with crisp acidity and a tropical burst of lemon, kiwi and white peaches. Notes of cucumber slices, lilies, dandelion, lots of wildflowers and some honey. A fun, light style that’d be great with seafood and salads. (87 points)

2021 Yalumba Sauvignon Blanc The Y Series – Australia, South Australia
SRP: $14
Pale yellow color. A mix of zesty and tropical on the nose, with limes, white peach, and notes of celery seed, white pepper, and sweeter honey and floral perfume tones. The palate is racy, fun, and fresh, with a pleasantly creamy texture and flavors of white peach and green apples. Has a chalky, punchy, flinty appeal, with a nice basil and white pepper kick. For the price, this provides a lot of complexity and depth. (88 points)

2020 Domaine Reine Juliette Picpoul de Pinet – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Picpoul de Pinet

SRP: $16
Rich yellow color. Juicy aromas of yellow pears and apples, with fresh white and yellow flowers, and airy, bright notes of chalk dust and margarita salt. The palate has a great mix of plush texture and racy acidity, and the balance sets the stage nicely for the kiwi, lemons, and limes. Sea salt, talc, flowers, honey, a lot going on here. Deep texture but so fresh – a great example of this style, and a lot of value. (89 points)

2021 Château Font-Mars Picpoul de Pinet – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Picpoul de Pinet
SRP: $15
Deep yellow color. Enticing nose, the fruit (quince and lime) blend so well with an oceanic infusion of oyster shells, limestone cliffs, sea spray, and chalk. Medium-bodied with zesty acidity, there’s a lovely textural weight that makes it creamy and pleasant throughout. Green and yellow apples mix with plenty of flinty, limestone, chalk dust vibes. Punchy but pristine, a very versatile spring/summer wine. (90 points)

N.V. Mumm Napa Brut Prestige – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $25
Medium yellow color with fine bubbles. The yellow apples and lemon bar aromas mix so well with biscuits, cane sugar, cinnamon crumb cake, and white flowers. Crisp acidity and fine bubbles on a chalky frame with fresh acidity and a pleasant amount of sweetness. Peaches and yellow apples, mixed with lemon curd, and topped in honey, graham cracker, saltines, and white flowers. Fun, crowd-pleasing, reliable stuff that sports solid complexity for the price. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Gris. (88 points)

2021 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Amphora Amber – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $60
Gorgeous light amber color. Such a spritely nose with scents of red apple and orange peels, honey, all sorts of blossoms, and some candle wax and honeycomb elements. The palate has a chalky, skin-contact tannins with a slightly dusty frame. Flavors of candied orange peel, pear skins, red apple peels, and very interesting elements of corn husk, hay, white tea, clay, and honeycomb. The flavors and textures are in-line, and for a skin-contact amphora wine this isn’t too “out there” – it stays focused, fresh, and event accessible. If you’re interested in these styles, or trying to convert friends or family, this is a great one to try. All whole-cluster fermented Vermentino – this producer is an expert with this grape. (93 points)

2022 Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot Noir Rosé – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $20
Very pale copper color. Vibrantly floral on the nose with orange blossom, dandelion, and nettle, over top of gushing guava, lemon, and white peach. Creamy texture and lip-smacking acidity plan well together with the white peach, guava, and orange peel. A lot of flowers and perfume, with notes of white pepper – plenty of springy, spritely goodness. Shows a pleasant depth of crunchy minerals, white tea, and dried flowers. A delightful Sonoma pink from whole-cluster Pinot, and from a consistent producer – this would be good any time of year. (89 points)

N.V. Graham Porto Six Grapes Reserve – Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $29
Deep purple color. Aromas of rich figs and plum cake, mixed with coffee, toffee, milk chocolate, and dried violets, accented by some pleasant earthy tones. The palate shows suave tannins and a chewy feel, sweet but moderated by the acidity. The flavors of sweet plums, raisin cake, fig paste, even some candied orange peel. Sports a lot of pleasantly sweet coffee and dried flowers, nuanced earth and minerals. Fun and value-driven intro Port, but complex and very well made, per usual from Graham’s. (89 points)

2017 Marqués de Riscal Rioja Baron de Chirel Reserva – Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja
SRP: $96
Deep purple color. A deep and concentrated nose with tart blueberries, red and black currants, gorgeous fruit that is matched with a complex bouquet: smoky earth, paprika, barbecue sauce and roasted coffee, a lot to coax out. Full-bodied on the palate with dusty tannins and zesty acidity, so the balance is great. Tart, deep black cherries and currants, deep but bright fruit with savory notes of black pepper, roasted red pepper, mushroom. And it’s rounded out by graphite, earth, stones and minerals. A beautiful Rioja that will age wonderfully. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Oregon's Troon Continues to Impress

I’ve had the pleasure of following Oregon’s Troon Vineyard since 2017, when I first tasted their wines. Since then, the hits just keep coming.

Troon is a biodynamic producer from Oregon’s Applegate Valley, an area in the south of the state that boast diverse geology, warm days, cool nights, and some exciting wineries. Troon, in my opinion, of course, has been consistently slinging out focused, unique wines from a large mix of grape varieties. Over the years, they’ve experimented with different styles, blends, adding things like Pet-Nat and Piquette to the mix, but also focusing on deep, juicy reds made from grapes like Tannat.

I recently tasted four of their releases from 2020, and I’m excited to share them. These wines sport new labels this year, tastefully designed and incorporating images of their biodynamic preparations. (I only point this out because, well, like record album artwork, I think labels matter — and this aesthetic is really working.)

Their Kubli Bench line is composed of really interesting blends, two of which are featured in this week’s report. There’s a delicious Vermentino (definitely a specialty of the winery) and a new, Beaujolais-inspired Grenache that is perfect for warmer weather.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Troon Vineyard Vermentino – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Such a fresh, inviting, floral, airy wine, like a spring field of all sorts of flowers, with white tea over top of generous peach and zesty lime. Punchy texture, vibrant acidity, this is a zesty and focused wine with yellow plums, white peach and cantaloupe fruit, drizzled with lime. The honey, clean laundry and floral perfume tones add complexity. Texturally, the depth of this wine is fantastic, too. Fermented in old French oak, aged on the lees for five months. (91 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Rosé – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Pale, pale pink color. So fresh and bright on the nose, like a spring field of buttercups, dandelion and clover over top of McIntosh apple, white cherry and peach skin, with some chalk and basil tones, too. Gorgeous texture on the palate, has nice richness but is really zesty and focused at the same time. Peaches, white cherries and honeydew melon fruit blend with perfume, chalky, crusty sea salt tones. Notes of clover, honey, minerals and shells add all sorts of complexity. Exciting, deep but also gluggable as can be. Really well done blend of Primitivo and Tinta Roriz. Fermented in old French oak, 11.7% alcohol. (92 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Amber – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Gorgeous honey, light orange color. Bright aromas that just pop: limes, lemon and kumquat, followed up by clover, candied lemon, sea salt, this is just a spritzy, fun-smelling wine. Medium-bodied with bright acidity, and the texture is really fascinating, waxy but never heavy, and the balance is lovely. Chunks of lemon, pineapple and green melon fruit bounce off these flinty, mineral, chalky elements, and there’s some white tea and hints of tobacco as well. Just a lot to unpack. Don’t worry, this is not a feral orange wine, but a pretty, focused and fresh blend of Riesling, Vermentino and Viognier that spends three weeks on the skins. Well, done, Troon! (92 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Grenache Glou-Glou Cowhorn Vineyard – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Bright purple color. Juicy and inviting on the nose with strawberries and fresh plums, roses, red licorice – just a ton of fun to sniff. Zesty acidity and light tannins frame the wine nicely, and the raspberry and strawberry fruit is bright and delicious. Notes of rose petals, wildflowers, and mild spicy tones add some complexity, too. Stainless steel, carbonic maceration, this is crushable but complex, easy-drinking but sporting impressive depth as well. This is Troon’s first take on this wine, and I look forward to what they’re going to do with it in the future. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

New Releases from California and Oregon

Happy belated new year. I’m back this week with a round-up of new releases from California and Oregon for my first reviews of 2021. And I’m starting off with some good stuff.

Merry Edwards, whose wines I fell in love with on one of my first California wine trips, comes out swinging with four rocking single-vineyard Pinots from the 2018 vintage.

Paso Robles’ Rabble Wine Company puts out several brands. Aesthetic and marketing matters, and they seem to do a great job of it, while maintaining quality in the bottle that could make you a return customer.

Long-time readers will have seen Troon’s wines on here before, and I have a lot of respect for this producer and their wines. Always experimenting with different styles, grapes, this biodynamic winery puts out nerdy but pristine and highly delicious wines in so many styles it seems there’s something for everyone in their portfolio.

Some other new releases round out this report. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White wines

2018 Talbott Chardonnay Block 50 South Sleepy Hollow Vineyard ­- USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $60
Rich yellow color. The aromas are deep and suave, with bruised pears, yellow apples, with complex floral tones, cinnamon crumb cake, honeycomb. Plump texture on the palate but moderate acidity keeps it vibrant throughout. Juicy flavors of yellow pears and apples, with apricot jam, mix with complex floral tones (honeysuckle, orange blossom). Notes of honey, graham cracker and brown sugar contrast against a chalky element. Rich but vibrant and fresh, too, this should age nicely. (90 points)

2018 Rabble Wine Company “Stasis” Grüner Veltliner - USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
SRP: $41
Medium yellow color. Inviting aromas of yellow apples, limes, along with this pretty combination of floral and spicy elements (honeysuckle fresh ramps) with honey and chalky elements as well. Precise acidity frames the wine nicely on a zesty, focused frame with delicious yellow apple, kiwi and lemon fruit. A crunchy, salty, floral appeal, with honeysuckle, ginger, cucumber slices and celery seed tones. A lot going on, bright and complex, but it’s also so fun and crushable, too. (90 points)

2018 Grieve Family Winery Double Eagle White Wine - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $48
Medium yellow color. Rich aromas of honeydew, pineapple and yellow apple with honeyed, floral tones but also these vibrant tones of hay, chalk and mint. Plush texture on the palate, vibrant acid, with flavors of white peach, pineapple and lemon tart fruit. Notes of chalk, minerals, tomato leaf and sea salt add complexity. Nuanced, plump but fresh, this Sauvignon Blanc has lovely clarity and focus to it. (90 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Côtes du Kubli Blanc - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Deep yellow color. Aromas of lemon, orange, yellow plum, a rushing display with notes of sea salt, white tea, honey, all sorts of flowers. A juicy, creamy mouthfeel but, considering the blend, the acidity is really surprising, offer pleasant moderation for the yellow plum, orange marmalade fruit, lime notes, too. Honey, marzipan and floral tones add complexity. Lovely stuff to serve with savory dishes on a cold night. Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne fermented with native yeasts in Old French oak. (91 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Amphora Amber - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
An orange, light gold color. The nose is bright, with orange peel, lemon, has a natural but focused appeal with wildflowers, crushed sweet tarts, quinine and talc. On the palate, this shows chunks of pineapple, orange peel and preserved lemon, plump but shows some medium-low acidity as well. Complex notes of crushed shells, floral perfume and subtle notes of mint, tobacco and earth. Really enjoyable and unique. Fermented in amphorae, two with whole grapes, one with whole cluster. (90 points)

Red wines

2017 Rabble Wine Company Tooth & Nail Wines “The Stand” - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Deep, roasted figs, blackberries and black currant compote, with cedar, coffee, tar and sweet cocoa. Juicy and full on the palate with velvety tannins, surprisingly fresh acidity. Jammy blackberries, blueberries, roasted figs, laced with cocoa, coffee, graphite, scorched earth, pepper and tar, yet this forward, winter-hearty wine shows vibrancy throughout. 85% Petite Sirah, 14% Syrah, 1% Viognier, aged 15 months in 34% new French oak. (89 points)

2018 Rabble Wine Company Rabble Red - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $13
Medium purple color. Jammy aromas of cherries and plums, smoky figs, with vanilla and chocolate covered raisins. Ripe and juicy on the palate with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Flavors of blackberry and smoky figs mix with vanilla, chocolate and coffee tones. Chewy and forward but shows some vibrancy, and has a fan-friendly, disappear at a party vibe to it. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Petite Sirah. (86 points)

2016 Rabble Wine Company “Amor Fati” Syrah Murmur Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $60
Vibrant purple color. Ooh! The nose oozes olives (green, black, some pimentos and garlic cloves thrown in, and I love it) backed up by these tones of beef jerk over top of tangy, juicy cherries and red plums. Full-bodied but fresh with this zippy acidity and some solid but slightly dusty tannins. Vibrant but chewy fruit, cherries and blackberries, along with lots of tobacco, black pepper, leather, lots green olives. Undertones of rocky earth and mineral round out this lovely, complex Syrah that will reward age. Spends 18 months in 30% new French oak. (92 points)

2019 Girasole Vineyards Pinot Noir - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $16
Medium ruby color. Aromas of raspberries, juicy cherries, with roses, cola, suave but shows some spicy, herbal tones as well. Juicy, smooth but fresh on the palate with soft tannins and medium acidity. Raspberry and cherry fruit mix with light roast coffee, nice tones of rose petals and save, nuanced toffee and cola. Fun, fresh, style, ripe but shows a lot of nuance and balance for the price. (87 points)

2016 Grieve Family Vineyard Double Eagle - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $88
Deep purple color. Aromas of juicy blackberries, blueberries, with tar, anise, roasted coffee and cedar, classic, deep, inviting Napa goodness. Full and suave on the palate with velvety tannins and fresh acidity, finely balanced. Ripe blackberry and smoky blueberry with plummy, sauce tones, backed up by complex graphite, mineral, charcoal and tobacco. Boastful but nuanced and fresh, too. Delicious, exciting stuff. Cabernet Sauvignon with 10% Petit Verdot. (92 points)

2017 Sebastiani Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $40
Light purple color. Aromas of smoky earth and mint chocolate chip over top spicy black currants, sweet plums, with pepper and black tea. Full-bodied on the palate with smooth tannins, medium acidity. Juicy and ripe with plush black cherry and plum fruit. Notes of cocoa, toasted coconut and coffee grounds are woven in well. A forward, yummy style, but it has some solid complexity and depth as well. (89 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Bucher Vineyard ­- USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $63
Aromas pop with raspberry and blueberry jams with spicy mint, menthol and clove, backed up by milk chocolate and rhubarb. Full but fresh with a slightly chewy texture and waves of plums, raspberry and blueberry fruit. Cola, rose petals, nuanced notes of toffee and roasted chestnut, complex floral and earth tones as well. Bold but beautiful, smooth and vibrant, and should be stellar in three to six years. (92 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Warrens' Hill Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Green Valley of Russian River Valley
SRP: $66
Cherries galore on the nose, vibrant and floral as well, with roses, violets, tobacco and sarsaparilla. Full-bodied, lively acidity, full of juicy cherries and red plums on a frame of dusty tannins. Complex notes of oregano, roses, coffee, clay and earth, with herbal and minty tones. Vibrant finish, harmonious and complex, the freshest, spiciest iteration in this mix, and it’s lovely. (93 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $63
Aromas of juicy cherries and plums meet notes of violets, cola and sweet oregano. Full-bodied with velvety tannins, a chewy texture with a concentrated feel, but stays vibrant with acidity as well. Deep cherry and roasted figs, wild blueberries, suave fruit mixes well with cola, sage and tobacco. Pretty underlying mineral and earth tones This could use some time, but it’s vibrant and exciting. (92 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Meredith Estate Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $72
The nose boasts sweet plums and deep black cherries, with rich tones of cola, cocoa and coffee. Full and chewy with moderate acidity and a deep core of black cherry and tart plum fruit. Saucy with notes of coffee, toffee, sarsaparilla, roasted chestnut and potting soil. Needs air and time to coax out the nuances, but it’s lovely and good for fans of the deeper style. (91 points)

2018 Troon Vineyard Syrah - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $30
Medium purple color. Aromas of suave black cherries, blackberries, with pepper, cocoa, mesquite, graphite and tilled soil. Full and fresh, nice tannic structure but velvety feel and vibrant acidity. Black cherries and blueberry compote mixes with all sorts of spicy tones (olives, pickling spices, mesquite, charcoal) with violet and cocoa tones. Integrated, lively, spicy, serious stuff for the price. (91 points)

2018 Troon Vineyard Syrah Whole Cluster Fermented ­- USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Medium purple color. So enticing on the nose, deep but vibrant with red and black cherries and currants, figs, and notes of pine, pepper, menthol and charcoal grill. Full-bodied and suave on the palate with bright acidity and a grippy but gorgeous, deep texture. Pretty blueberries and blackberry fruit mix well with complex notes of bacon fat, beef jerky, black olive, scorched earth. A silky, mineral-laden finish. This should age wonderfully over the next decade. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Celebrating Summer & Natural Wines with Maryland's Burnt Hill

I've grown tired of the term "natural wine."

When I first heard the term pop up a decade or so ago, usually among conversation with my dorky wine trade friends, it made some sense. It was used to describe a lot of the wines we all had liked for a long time: lower alcohol, no overt new oak, sometimes fizzy (Pet-Nat, for example), sometimes funky and quirky.

The winemakers who extolled this old-school, less technologically-focused aesthetic seemed like the kind of crunchy nerds I loved to hang out with. The focus on sustainability, biodynamics and other eco-conscious farming and winemaking methods has always resonated with me. And, of course, I found the wines to be delicious and fascinating.

But the term avoided definition or classification, and was used loosely and unsparingly. As the movement grew and garnered more and more attention in the culture, I noticed two loose camps begin to assemble.

The Natural Wine Evangelists seemed driven by levels of conviction and certainty that were beyond me. Now, I'm a semi-crunchy, organic-loving, biodynamic-supporting, nature-worshipping outdoorsman who really enjoys plenty of low-sulfite, extended skin contact, funky wines. But while I support low-intervention farming methods for environmental reasons, I'm unconvinced natural wines are any better for the human body. I have similar worries about the holier-than-thou attitude that seems to be a byproduct of the certain elements within the natural wine movement.

Then there are the Natural Wine Haters. They write off the entire movement as misguided, the wines as undrinkable, the natural wine-lovers as hipster lemmings. Their disdain for natural wines rivals the missionary zeal of the other side.

I'm not happy in either camp, although my sympathies lie with small producers trying to minimize their impact on the environment. But I find most of the discussion about what is and what is not "natural wine" and why it's good or bad to be exhausting. This is why I've written so little on the topic.

But I was beyond stoked to attend the inaugural Solstice Festival at Burnt Hill in Montgomery County, Maryland. This natural wine festival attracted me, first and foremost, because of the people behind it. I first wrote about Old Westminster Winery in 2016. I could tell Drew Baker and his sisters Ashli and Lisa were onto something great, and I was going to keep my eye on them.

When they broke ground on their new farm, Burnt Hill, and started talking about Maryland Gamay, I was all ears. Dave McIntyre at the Washington Post has a great, in-depth write-up on Burnt Hill in the Washington Post, which I won't attempt to reiterate because, well, he gets it all down pretty damn well here.

The Burnt Hill Crew teamed up with a few dozen low-intervention winemakers from all over the country (and world). They all gathered at a gorgeous farm in the rolling hills of Clarksburg, Maryland, to crack open bottles and spread positive wine vibes.

Only a cynical teetotaler could manage not to have a total blast at this festival. Hundreds of people gathered under large tents to taste unique and quirky wines of all different varieties and styles. I saw a few greased mustaches, but found nary a hint of pretension. I met up with some old friends, made a few new ones, and enjoyed supporting one of the Mid-Atlantic's most exciting wine producers.

Through it all, I managed to take a bunch of tasting notes on some delicious wines, which are included below. Enjoy! I sure did. And I can't wait to celebrate the Summer Solstice again at this festival in 2020.


Broc Cellars

2018 Broc Cellars Chenin Blanc Pétillant Shell Creek Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Yeasty, lots of fizz, pear, honey, dusty, tart lemon, some spice and herbal tones, Really delicious. (90 points)

2018 Broc Cellars Friulano amore bianco Fox Hill Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
Tropical, floral, peach nectar, tiny bubbles, lots of flowers and fruit, balanced nicely, a transparent style, and I love it. (91 points)

2017 Broc Cellars Cabernet Franc Whole Cluster - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
Juicy, cherries, plush, not too herbaceous, bright and spicy, whole-cluster fermented. (88 points)

Hiyu Wine Farm

N.V. Hiyu Apple Floreal Cider - USA, Oregon, Hood River County
Juicy, crunchy, fizzy, fun. (87 points)

2018 Hiyu Zinfandel Smockshop Band Rosé - USA, Oregon, Columbia Valley
Gorgeous cherry color. Rich texture, juicy raspberries, with spice and herbs. (89 points)

2018 Hiyu Grenache Smockshop Band - USA, Oregon, Columbia Valley
Spicy, earthy, strawberries, bright and fun, spicy and tangy with a charcoal and forest floor element. Very exciting. (91 points)

N.V. Hiyu The May II - USA, Oregon/Washington, Columbia Gorge
Deep auburn color. Shows caramel, spiced tea, tons of pepper and grilling spices, shows some tannins, some volatile acidity but it’s woven in nicely (kind of like Madeira) and the wine shows a lot of depth and intrigue. A blend of wines from five different vintages, skin-fermented Pinot varieties. A weird wine that actually really works out, and I’m a fan. (89 points)

Georgian wines

2017 Chona's Marani Mtsvane & Rkatsiteli - Georgia, Kakheti
Almond, hay, waxy, apricot, sea salt. (88 points)

2017 Chona's Marani Rkatsiteli - Georgia, Kakheti
Very perfumed, briny, big texture, spiced tea and ginger, mint and menthol elements, a really balanced but wild wine that I found really impressive. (90 points)

2018 Baia's Wine Tsolikouri - Georgia, West Georgia, Imereti
Quince, orange marmalade, super zippy with briny, salty complexities, and hay, waxy, honeyed notes. Really unique and fascinating, totally delicious, a real surprise and treat. (91 points)

2018 Gvantsa's Wine Aladasturi - Georgia, West Georgia, Imereti
Super spicy red with cherries, strawberries, lots of incense, potpourri, spiced tea, bitter black tea. Fun stuff with some unique spicy flavor profiles. (88 points)

2016 Naotari Rkatsiteli Kisi Khikhvi Amber Wine - Georgia, Kakheti, Kvareli
So briny, dusty, earthy, a bit heavy and bitter. Pass. A blend of Rkatsiteli, Kisi and Khikhvi. (80 points)

2017 Orgo Saperavi - Georgia, Kakheti
Dark tart, anise, incense sticks, tangy plum skins and pepper. Fun! (87 points)

California

2017 Matthiasson Chardonnay Harms Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
Salty and fresh with lemon crème, apricot. Pure, salty, a bit briny but lots of lush elements of honey and cream as well. Very pretty Chardonnay from Matthiasson, per usual. (91 points)

2018 Matthiasson Mataro Tendu - USA, California, Central Valley, Yolo County
Fresh, spicy, tangy, yet shows complexity. Vibrant red fruits with earthy, savory elements. Complex yet goes down so easily. (88 points)

2018 Matthiasson Tendu - USA, California
Barbera-based blend. Juicy, tangy but sweet cranberry sauce, raspberries, fun and fresh and crushable. (87 points)

2017 Matthiasson Grenache Syrah Mourvèdre - USA, California, Napa Valley
So fresh and floral with tangy red fruits and lots of pepper, potpourri, grilled herbs. Juicy but it’s really complex and spicy as well. (90 points)

Lightwell Survey

2016 Lightwell Survey Cabernet Franc The Weird Ones Are Wolves - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
Crushable, punchy, juice, nice floral, spice, tea elements. Has dashed of Petite Manseng and Riesling in it. Pretty cool stuff. (88 points)

2018 Lightwell Survey Blaufränkisch Dark Days - USA, Virginia
Really dark ruby color. Lots of fun, fresh, juicy strawberries and floral, spicy tones. 100% Blaufränkisch. (87 points)

2016 Lightwell Survey Hintermen - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
Peachy, tennis ball, magnolia flowers on the nose. Floral and juicy on the palate with super ripe peach, drizzled with lime, a mineral-rocky undertone. Really fun and cool stuff. Riesling and Petite Manseng. (89 points)

Fausse Piste

2018 Fausse Piste Muscat Fish Sauce Pet-Nat - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills
Spicy, floral, punchy, fine bubbles, really fresh. (88 points)

2018 Fausse Piste Oyster Sauce Grenache Rosé - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Rogue Valley
Grenache rose. Fresh cherries and strawberries, racy acidity. (89 points)

N.V. Fausse Piste Pizza Sauce - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
Zesty, cherry-driven, accessible but has this complexity of texture and flavors from the aging and solera-style of this wine. Easy-drinking in the best sense of the word, but a lot of fun, too. A multi-vintage blend of all sorts of red (and some white) grapes. (90 points)

Scholium Project

2015 Scholium Project La Severità di Bruto Farina - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
Deep texture, rich fruit (orange, lemon, peach) with spicy herbal tones. Vibrant and impressive. (89 points)

2016 Scholium Project The Prince In His Caves Farina - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
Lemon, peach, honey, waxy notes, some mint and white pepper. This has some skin-contact that gives it a lot more textural depth and some cool olive oil and almond elements. (90 points)

2016 Scholium Project 1MN Bechtold Ranch - USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi
So aromatic with rose potpourri, pepper, clove, warm clay, tangy red apple and raspberry fruit. Gorgeous texture, dusty tannins, crisp acidity, crunchy red fruits laced with all sorts of earthy, savory complexities. A beautiful Bechtoldt vineyard that should do interesting things with age. Wine of the festival for me. (93 points)

Purity

2018 Purity Wine Verdelho Silvaspoons - USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi
Whoa! No formal notes, but this wine wowed me and kept me at this table to try the others. (90 points)

2018 Purity Wine Roussanne Orange Carbo-Crush Oakstone - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Nevada County
So, this is really fun. Skin-fermented, semi-carbonic Roussanne – and it works! Texturally deep but fresh, with a pleasant bitterness and lots of complex spicy, floral tones. Fascinating and, yeah, weird, but it works. I bought a bottle to blind some wine nerds on and mess with them. (91 points)

2016 Purity Wine Grenache Covfefe Oakstone Vineyard - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Nevada County
So spicy, tangy, nice grip. Tart fruits with lots of pepper and earth and a fun but not overwhelming amount of funky, beefy notes. (87 points)

2015 Purity Wine Syrah Blackbird - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
Stewed plums, incense sticks, black pepper, mulling spices. A warm and roasted kind of Syrah, but still nice. (86 points)

Exceptional New Releases from Oregon's Troon Vineyard

I’ve been tasting the wines of Oregon’s Troon Vineyard for a few years now, and their new releases continue this winery’s tradition of excellence.

All Troon wines come from estate grapes in the cool Applegate Valley appellation of South Oregon. The winery sits at 1,400 feet above sea level, on a high bench above the Applegate River. Surrounded by the Siskiyou Mountains, the Applegate and Rogue rivers allow cooling Pacific breezes to flow into the valley in the afternoons, which helps keep the diurnal temperature shifts high.

The Troon team has been making a lot of effort in the vineyard of late, as the 2018 grapes were farmed organically and biodynamically. They expect their first Demeter certification with the next vintage. The wines are generally picked with brix measurements between 21 and 24, and the acidity really shines through in all of these wines. In the winery, all the wine are crushed by foot, fermentation is done with native yeasts, there’s no correcting for acids or sugars, and the wines don’t see any new oak.

Their range of releases is wide, from Skin-fermented Riesling, to Rhone whites, to Cabernet, Zinfandel, Syrah and Vermentino. In this new batch of Troon wines, I found, yet again, excellent wines at exceptional prices.

2017 Troon Vineyard Roussanne - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP $30
Medium yellow color. Apricot and white peach aromas, with lots of floral perfume, baby’s breath and lilies. Light-bodied, only 11% alcohol, which is kind of crazy for a Roussanne but this totally works. Texture is rich and waxy and dusty but acidity is there and keeps it fresh. Apricot and lime peel mix with yellow flowers, raw almond, and some flinty, stony notes. Complex, texturally fascinating, a very unique Roussanne. Barrel fermented, aged for 6 months in mature oak. (90 points)

2017 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Blanc - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP $30
Rich yellow color. Wow, aromatics pop with apricot, pineapple, orange marmalade, and complex elements of lamp oil, raw almond and herbal extract kind of thing – unique and interesting. 11.8% alcohol but texturally deep, creamy, chalky, with moderating acidity. The flavors are delicious (apricot and orange marmalade, mango, notes of salted almond and sweet white flowers), but the mouthfeel is just so lovely, and the most fascinating aspect of the wine. Really cool stuff. 52% marsanne 48% viognier barrel co-fermented, aged for 6 months in mature oak. (91 points)

2017 Troon Vineyard Vermentino - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP $18
Light yellow color. Pretty aromatics of salted lemon and lime, orange peel, along with floral, spice, herbal complexity. Lovely texture and balance with fresh, crisp acidity and a smooth and vibrant mouthfeel. Apricot, lemon, pineapple and orange, along with sea salt, crushed shells, honeyed white tea. A brighter, leaner version of the Whole Grape Ferment, but still plenty of depth and texture here. Insane value for the price. Barrel fermented, aged six months in mature oak, 12% alcohol. (91 points)

2017 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Whole Grape Ferment - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP $25
Medium yellow color. Fascinating aromas of apricot, orange and lemon pith, sea salt, white tea, hay, freshly cut flowers. On the palate, this is pristine and crisp, but crunchy and full of textural depth as well, with lovely balance. Apricot, lemon pith, along with complex elements of saline, crushed shells, white tea, bamboo and white pepper, seriously cool stuff going on here. Texture and mouthfeel on this wine is glorious. Barrel fermented and aged six months in mature oak, 12.6% alcohol. (92 points)

2016 Troon Vineyard Malbec Cuvée Cot - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP $35
Light purple color. Aromas of warm plum and blackberry compote, tart wild blueberries, and a cool mix of lavender, violets, black tea and warm clay. So vibrant and tangy on the palate, but structured tannins provide some grip. The black cherry, plums and blueberry fruit is tart and tangy, and laced with a complex mix of incense sticks, lavender, violets, loamy soil, black tea and tar. This is delicious now, but has the acidity, structure and fruit to age quite a while. 18 months in mature oak, 13.4% alcohol. (91 points)

2017 Troon Vineyard Zinfandel Kubli Bench - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP $20
Vibrant purple color. The aromas really pop with aromas of red cherries, strawberries, pomegranate, with notes of roses, pepper, lavender, some cola, I love this fresh, bright appeal. Suave and medium/full-bodied with crisp acidity and fleshy, velvety tannins. Crisp red and black cherries, pomegranate, strawberries, lots of fruit but an airy, more restrained feel. Complex elements of spicy tobacco, pepper, leather and a whole lot of red flowers. So pretty, so delicious. Zinfandel co-fermented with 3% Petite Sirah, aged 12 months in mature oak, 13.6% alcohol. Applegate Valley Zin, who knew? Not me, but this is eye-opening stuff. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: Summer Sippers to Beat the Heat

It’s the middle of summer, so this week I’m highlighting a range of white and rosés, and an amber (or orange) wine to keep things cool.

The pink wave of American obsession with rosé is still going strong, and it seems each year I see more rosé wine than the last year. Especially during summertime, we love to drink pink wine. I’ve received a handful of rosé wines since I covered my first batch a few months ago, and found quite a few goodies.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

White Wines

2017 Trefethen Riesling Dry – USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll
SRP: $26
Very pale straw color. Aromas burst out of the glass with lemons, limes, chalk dust, cut flower stems, baby’s breath. Crisp and so zesty, dry and bracing but plenty of vibrant fruit (lime, peach, guava). Complex elements of chalk dust, limestone, mountain stream, honeysuckle. Add in some cucumber slices and a hint of tennis ball, with lots of minerals on the finish. A lovely dry California Riesling that I’d love to re-taste in four or five years. Sourced from Main Ranch Vineyard. (91 points)

2017 Chateau Montelena Riesling - USA, California, North Coast, Potter Valley
SRP: $27
Pale lemon color. A rich and plump aromatic display (orange, white peach, pineapple) along with yellow flowers, honeycomb, white tea, a stony-minty element as well. Plump and juicy fruit, this is richer and more tropical than I remember previous vintages, but it’s tropical and delicious (white peaches, cantaloupe, pineapple) with some drizzled lime on there. White flowers, chalky, spritely and fresh with some mineral and nettle notes and a honeyed finish. So surprised, year after year, at this wine. (91 points)

2017 Gamble Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Gamble Vineyard – USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. The nose boasts bright white and yellow flowers, with green apples and yellow pears, a hint of sea salt. Creamy texture on the palate, this is fresh and crisp with a tangy, salty hint. Green apples and pears, lemon curd, the fruit mixes with honeysuckle, chalk dust, mineral and a hint of lemon verbena. Bright but textured, almost velvety, loving the depth and freshness combo here. Fermented mostly in old French oak, with a bit of new, and some stainless steel. (90 points)

2017 Sanctuary Vineyards Albariño Pearl – USA, North Carolina, Outer Banks
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Aromas of guava, peach, honey and floral tones, with sea salt notes. Rich and peachy with apricots and lemon, this is plumper, richer style but well done, interesting interpretation of this grape. Waxy, honeyed notes to the apricot and peach, but there’s still plenty of flowers and sea salt. Nice effort from North Carolina! (85 points)

Amber and Rosé

2017 Troon Vineyard Riesling Whole Grape Ferment – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $20

Pale gold/amber color. Nose bursts with yellow flowers, honey, candle wax, almond, sea salt, topped on top of bright limes and apricot. Bright and crisp on the palate but the textural richness is awesome, and there are these chalky, dusty elements that I love. Flavors of limes and candied orange peel, mixed with almond, ginger, dried honey, wax. Complex, elegant, deliciousness. 11.6% alcohol, almost bone dry, this is an exciting and delicious orange wine. (92 points)

N.V. Amelia Crémant de Bordeaux Rosé Brut - France, Bordeaux, Crémant de Bordeaux
SRP: $20
Pale copper color. Subtle aromas of white flowers, tangy strawberries and white cherries. Crisp and bright on the palate with high acid and a light, tangy appeal. White cherries, red apple peel flavors. Steely and light, budget and picnic-friendly. Made from Merlot and Cabernet Franc. (85 points)

2017 Tasca D'Almerita Sicilia Le Rose di Regaleali - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $15
Deep copper color. Nose of nectarines, peaches, apricots, lots of blossoms and spiced white tea, a sea salt note. Punchy and juicy but tangy on the palate with crisp, salty, oceanic influences throughout. Juicy nectarines, blood orange, yellow plums, along with notes of roses and spiced tea. This is delicious rose of Nerello Mascalese, and a total steal at this price. (89 points)

2017 Copain Pinot Noir Tous Ensemble Rosé - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $25
Deep copper color. Aromas of roses, lilies, sweet melon, nectarine, with hints of sea spray and chalk dust. Crisp and lip-smacking acidity, so lively, with a nice streak of mineral, chalk and saline throughout. Tart red apple with juicy white peaches and cantaloupe. Tangy, spicy, with floral complexity that lingers on the finish. Delightful Pinot Noir rose. (89 points)

2017 Cambria Pinot Noir Rosé Julia's Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $18
Bright pink color. Nose boasts peaches, spicy wild strawberries, watermelon and some white pepper. Plump, richly-textured, and juicy on the palate with medium acidity. Lots of watermelon, strawberry and red apple fruit. Fruit-forward style with notes of roses, cherry blossoms. All Pinot Noir. (87 points)

2017 Sidebar Cellars Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $21
Deep copper/light raspberry color. Ripe peaches, juicy strawberries, some spiced cranberry relish, along with white flowers and white pepper note. Bold texture with plenty of fruit (white peaches, mango, strawberry) yet bright acidity. The fruit is so juicy and pretty but I love these white pepper and rhubarb elements as well. Delicious stuff. 100% Syrah. (89 points)

2017 WillaKenzie Estate Rosé - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
SRP: $21
Pale copper color. Super floral on the nose with cut stems, orange blossoms, lilies, nettle, along with peaches galore. Precise acidity from start to finish, dry and tangy, minerality throughout. White cherries, juicy peaches and nectarine topped in rose hips and orange blossoms. Floral, fresh, lovely balance and depth, this is very pretty stuff. Pinot Noir with 3% Pinot Meunier and 2% Pinot Blanc. (90 points)

2017 Veritas Vineyard Rosé - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $20
Medium watermelon color. Aromas of strawberries and white cherries, rose hips and roses, orange blossoms, honeysuckle. Medium-bodied on the palate with a plush and fruity appeal, raspberries and orange blossoms, honeysuckle. Floral and fruity, spicy and herbal, so fresh and lively but it sports significant depth. Lovely Virginia pink from Veritas. (88 points)

<85 points

2017 Concha y Toro Shiraz Rosé Casillero del Diablo - Chile
SRP: $8
Pale copper color. Aromas of strawberries and white cherries, along with roses, nettle, lemon meringue, crushed sweet tart candies. Light and bright with high acid, tart lemon and watermelon rind fruit. Notes of rose hips, rhubarb, sliced cucumber. Light and simple, a blend of Syrah, Cinsault and Carmenere.

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

An Exceptional Orange Viognier From Virginia

Orange wines (ancient as they may be) have seen quite a renaissance over the course of the 12 years or so I've been paying serious attention to the American wine market.

If you've heard much about orange wine you probably fall into one of two categories: you enjoy them and seek them out, or you dismiss them as generally flawed wines promoted ad nauseam by obnoxious "hipster sommeliers."

Orange wines are called such because they are made from white grapes but, unlike white wines, the juice is allowed some period of contact with the skins of the grapes. Grape skins give wine its color (this is why red wines are red and not pale copper in color), so white grapes that get skin contact come out in a range of orange-like hues. Usually categorized as so-called "natural" wines, they tend to be made in an old school, minimal-intervention kind of way. And, yes, while some surely suffer from a specific wine flaw, I've found the vast majority to be as delicious as they are fascinating.

During a recent Twitter tasting with my friend, and Virginia wine buff, Frank Morgan, I cracked open a Virginia orange wine that really astounded me. Hailing from Virginia powerhouse producer King Family Vineyards (in Crozet, VA) this Viognier is, hands down, the best I've tasted from Virginia all year. I don't usually do posts on a single wine, but I couldn't help myself with this beauty.

My notes...

2014 King Family Vineyards Viognier Small Batch Series - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$35
Rich golden, slightly orange color. Smells amazing: orange peel, shaved ginger, salted almond, yellow flowers, honey, spiced white tea — wow! Full-bodied with a plump and waxy mouthfeel but not heavy, and medium acidity keeps it alive. Complex, interwoven flavors of sea salt, crushed shells, salted almond, ginger, graham cracker, lemon curd, orange liqueur. Wow this is exceptional, delicious, complex, harmonious stuff. Virginia Viognier orange wine is apparently a thing and I, for one, am stoked. (92 points)

Sorry to report that the wine is sold out! This was the first year the wine was produced, and they only made one barrel of it. Good news is, the next release comes from seven barrels, which, while not a lot, is at least a bit more to go around.

A Grab Bag of Italian Wines

The diversity of Italian wine regions, the seemingly endless amount of native grape varieties, the different styles and winemaking methods, it’s all a bit daunting. But you don’t have to be an expert to enjoy Italian wine. You just need a glass, an open mind and, preferably, some delicious food.

I recently had the pleasure of tasting through a few Italian wines. A drop in the bucket for sure, but it was an enjoyable and educational experience. All wines were received as trade samples and tasted blind.

White

2011 Arnaldo-Caprai Grechetto Colli Martani “Grecante” - Italy, Umbria, Colli Martani
SRP: $20
Medium gold color. Interesting nose of honeycomb, dried pineapple, apricot and hazelnut. On the palate, this wine has an oily texture and medium acid. The flavors of yellow apple and apricot are light and easy, and the nutty-honeycomb aspect adds a bit of punch. A hint of green herbs carries the finish, which isn’t long. While it has some attractive components, overall this isn’t a thought-provoking wine. 100% Grechetto. (83 points)

Orange?

2011 Attems Pinot Grigio “Cupra Ramato” - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT
SRP: $19
Pretty gold-pink color, like honey mixed with grapefruit juice. Aromas of honeycomb, honeydew melon, ruby red grapefruit and sweet flowers. The palate shows high acid and medium body, with flavors of honeydew melon, white peach and grapefruit. Notes of quinine and minerals add a racy component. Long finish. A really unique and punchy Pinot Grigio. The must remains in contact with the grape skins for 12 hours, which gives this wine that nice coppery color and maybe some of the depth and complex flavors. (89 points)

Red

2008 Valturio “Solco” Marche IGT - Italy, Marche, Marche IGT
SRP: $34
Aromas of violets, mixed dark berries, cranberry sauce, pencil shavings. The palate is wonderfully fresh, as the acid sets the stage for the cranberry, strawberry and fig paste. Notes of coffee, leather, musk and charcoal add layers of complexity. There’s an underlying earthiness that pervades this wine, just like the acid, which starts and finishes this wine. 100% Rebo, which is a hybrid of Merlot and Teroldego, aged 12 months in 50% new French barriques. An elegant yet serious wine that deserves a homemade Italian meal and some time in the decanter. (90 points)

2010 Bersano Dolcetto d'Alba “Coldelfosso” - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba

SRP: $20
Sour cherries, raspberries and dusty earth on the nose. Tart acid, soft tannins, the fruit tastes like tangy cherries and raspberries. Some earth and charcoal flavors add complexity. That said, it’s more of a simple wine for easy drinking. Medium finish. Seems like a drink-me-now. (85 points)

2009 Piccini Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

SRP: $16
A little reticent on the nose, faint red plum, rose petals, dusty earth and a bit of dried tobacco. Medium-bodied on the palate, moderate acid and fine tannins. Flavors of sour cherry, red plum and raspberry jam, along with notes of cocoa powder and tobacco. The wine falls off a bit on the finish. A simple, easy-sipping wine. (82 points)

2006 Castelnuovo Dell'Abate Brunello di Montalcino Riserva “La Fiorita” - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
SRP: $95
A beautiful mix of earth and fruit flavors on the nose, raspberries, figs, green olive, lamb and soy. Medium-to-high acid kicks off the palate along with fine-grained but firm tannins. The raspberry and red currant fruit is pure and complex and mixed with notes of coffee, sage, soy, chewing tobacco, rounded out with some toast. Tasted blind, this screamed Tuscany. A very pretty wine, but there’s no rush because this could use some time in the cellar. (90 points)

2008 Arnaldo-Caprai Sagrantino di Montefalco “Collepiano” - Italy, Umbria, Montefalco, Sagrantino di Montefalco

SRP: $60
A bold purple-magenta color. The plum and blackberry fruit smells roasted and inky, and I get notes of violet and dark chocolate as well. The tannins are seriously grippy, and medium acid tries to fight back. The plum and currant fruit tastes deep and compact. Really smoky, like a steak on a charcoal grill. The toasty oak mixes with notes of roasted coffee, herbal liqueur and incense. This 100% Sagrantino is aged for two years in French oak, then six more months in bottle. A bold, gritty wine, I think cellaring this for five to eight years might be a good idea. (90 points)

2010 Arnaldo-Caprai Montefalco Rosso - Italy, Umbria, Montefalco, Montefalco Rosso

SRP: $22

Smells of cherries in sauce, bright berries, along with some tobacco and roasted coffee. The palate shows grippy tannins and medium acid. The cherry and currant fruit is snappy and fresh. Notes of green pepper, anise and tobacco add complexity. The tannins need some time to mellow out, but this wine packs a lot of complexity for $22. A blend of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino and 15% Merlot. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.