Wine Reviews: California New Releases

Happy Saturday, folks. I hope you’re all healthy and handling these pandemic times as well as can be expected. I’m still receiving lots of samples, and the delivery drivers have been great about social distancing, and I’m making sure to wash my hands after handling wine boxes!

Over these past few weeks at home, I’ve been receiving a lot of samples from California, mostly from producers I know well.

We’ve got some interesting Albarino from Lodi worth checking out, and a delicious Sonoma Roussanne as well. Even if you’re like me, and skeptical of Napa Sauv Blanc, Galerie’s Naissance Sauvignon Blanc is something really special. I also have some Napa Cabernets that deliver a lot of goodness and value.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Sparkling

N.V. J Vineyards & Winery Cuvée 20 – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $38
Medium gold color. Nose shows white flowers, sea breeze, with generous pears and oranges, pie crust and chalk tones. Medium-bodied, the sweetness is balanced with vibrant acidity. Flavors of tangy apples and tangerines, green melon, blend well with notes of sea salt, white flowers, fresh biscuits and sugar cane. Fun, fresh, zippy, but also offering some balance and complexity, especially for the price. 51% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 9% Pinot Meunier, with a 10.5 g/l dosage, aged 30 months on the lees. (88 points)

White wines

2019 FEL Pinot Gris – USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Bright floral tones on the nose with daisies, nettle honeysuckle and mint on top of peach and apricot fruit. Flexy texture on the palate, plush and creamy, but nervy acidity keeps it lively. Apricot and white peach fruit, yellow plum, fresh and vibrant fruit, mixing well with notes of floral perfume, mint, and flinty, salty tones. Inviting and complex. Fermented in old French oak and aged five months on the lees. (90 points)

2018 Oak Farm Vineyards Albariño – USA, California, Central Valley, San Joaquin County
SRP: $24
Deep yellow color. Bright and boastful aromas of white peach, green apple, apricot, with orange blossom, dandelion and sea salt. Crisp and tangy on the palate, yet a plush mouthfeel. Oranges, white peach, papaya, lime, a fruit salad topped in salty, steel, floral complexity. Lively, bright, yet punchy and fruity, this could easily sneak by in a Rias Baixas blind tasting, but it does have a bit more fruit. Delightful spring/summer wine at a bargain price. All stainless steel. (90 points)

2019 Mettler Family Vineyards Albariño Estate Grown – USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Nose shows bright lemons, white peaches and nectarine, with all sorts of wildflowers and some wild herbs. Fleshy texture but bright, zippy appeal here, along with papaya and peach fruit. Spice lemon verbena and sliced green onion mix well with notes of sea breeze and clean laundry. A shellfish and outdoor patio-friendly kind of wine, as Albarino should be. All stainless steel. (87 points)

2018 Galerie Sauvignon Blanc Naissance – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $30
Pale lemon color. Airy, breezy aromatics with lemon pith, green apples, topped in sea spray, baby’s breath and nettle, some mint. On the palate, this has lovely textural depth but a bright, sprightly appeal. Lemon, green apple, kiwi, fun and fruity but complexities abound: chalk, minerals, crushed stones, pure mountain stream. Notes of mint, honeysuckle and sliced cucumber round out the finish. Pure, lively, racy, fun, this is a killer Napa SB for the price. Fermented and aged in a mix of stainless steel, concrete eggs and old oak. (91 points)

2019 Ehlers Estate Sauvignon Blanc – USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $32
Light yellow color. A burst of kiwi, papaya and white peach on the nose, with honeysuckle, white pepper, verbena and clean laundry. Medium-bodied with bright acidity and deep texture, generous but super fresh. Kiwi, lemon, white peach, topped in sliced green onion, white pepper, honeysuckle, with notes of chalk and sea salt. Clean, focused, crisp but shows lots of depth, too. Aged six months on the lees. (89 points)

2017 Sosie Roussanne Vivio Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley
SRP: $38
Deep yellow color. Gorgeous aromas of dried apricot, glazed pears, honey, ginger, white tea. Rich texture on the palate, deep and plush, yet moderate acidity. Apricot, honeyed pears, plush and deep with notes of graham cracker, wax, salted almond, green tea, ginger snaps. Bold but shows lots of nuance and vibrancy, very nice for Roussanne to be this lively. Aged 15 months in 20% new French oak. (90 points)

Red wines

2016 Galerie Cabernet Sauvignon Pleinair – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $65
So inviting on the nose, with dark plums, black cherries, cassis, with earth, leather, sage, menthol and mint complexities. Gorgeous texture on the palate with structured tannins and bright acidity, balanced, vibrant, pure. Black currants, plums, deep, suave fruit, laced with beautiful notes of violets, clove, mineral, graphite, earth, sage. Such a nuanced, fresh style, but this will age beautifully. Aged 19 months in 73% new French oak. For the price, this wine has such an elegant, complex, “real” feel. (93 points)

2016 Mi Sueño Cabernet Sauvignon – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $75
Aromas of blueberry and blackberry, with vanilla, espresso, charcoal, earth and violets. On the palate, this is full-bodied and velvety with medium acidity and a dark, juicy, fruity core (blackberry, blueberry). Complex notes of charcoal, warm earth, graphite, espresso roast and mint chocolate chip. Hedonistic but complex and smooth, this could use a few years or a good decant. Aged 2 months in 65% new French oak. (90 points IJB)

2017 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon One Point Five – USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
SRP: $95
Aromas show a deep core of black cherries, black currants, tart blueberry, with smoky earth, tobacco, clove, black pepper, tar and vanilla. Big and voluptuous on the palate, rich and structured with fine-grained tannins, moderating acidity. Gorgeous blueberry and blackberry fruit mixes well with complex, violets, tar, pencil lead, smoky earth, nuanced cedar and clove. Another stunning vintage of this Cabernet, which doesn’t disappoint. 100% Cabernet aged 20 months in all new French oak. (94 points)

2016 The Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder – USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder
SRP: $80
Aromas of tangy black cherries, tart currants, with charcoal, vanilla, dark chocolate, some black tea, leather and clove. Full but balanced with moderating acidity. Bold and expressive with a chewy but lively texture, deep currants, plum sauce. Notes of mint, chewing tobacco and earth blend well with vanilla, coconut and dark chocolate. Saucy and rich but lovely vibrancy throughout. I’m curious to see what four or five years does to this wine. Aged 22 months in 80% new French oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

New Wine Releases from California

I’ve been receiving a lot of new releases from California lately (especially rosés), so this report is my attempt to keep up!

This week, I’m taking a look at two Sonoma County wines from Sosie, which really wowed me with their brightness, freshness and lower alcohol vibes. I also tasted some big name 2015 Napa Cabs (Beaulieu’s Georges de Latour Private Reserve and LaJota’s Howell Mountain), which showed why they’re popular and expensive.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Castello di Amorosa Chardonnay Reserve - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $58

Bold yellow color. The nose jumps out with rich baked apples, orange marmalade, lots of honey, butter, cinnamon and nougat. The palate shows rich, buttery texture but medium acidity. Baked apples and glazed pear fruit, topped in honey, almond, ginger, cinnamon and floral perfume. A plump, rich style, but it wrapped together well. Aged 10 months in all new French oak, with 75% maloactic fermentation. (88 points)

2015 Sosie Roussanne Vivio Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley

SRP: $38

Bold yellow color. Aromas pop with super tropical combos of pineapple, lychee, honey butter, almond, tropical flowers. Medium-bodied (only 12.9% alcohol) with moderating acidity, which really helps, and there’s a creamy, waxy texture. Flavors of yellow apples and pineapple, laced with floral potpourri, salted nuts, white tea, there’s some underlying mineral tones. Bold and tropical in flavors yet it’s nuanced and light on its feel – a nice combo to find in California Roussanne. Native yeasts, barrel fermented, all maloactic fermentation. (90 points)

2015 Sosie Pinot Noir Spring Hill Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $43

Bright cherry colored. Nose shows fresh red cherries and pomegranate with lots of spiced tea, bay leaf, pepper, paprika, rose petals – this has a really spicy, savory nose that I love. Medium-bodied and really fresh with dusty tannins and bright acidity on a frame of about 13% alcohol. Red cherries, raspberries and pomegranate fruit blend well with notes of spiced tea, pepper, bay leaf, subtle coffee and cedar notes. Complex and could develop in the cellar but it’s already harmonious. Aged 16 months in 25% new French oak. (91 points)

2016 Sidebar Cellars Zinfandel - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $28

Bright deep ruby color. Aromas of wild red currant, raspberries, tangy summer plums, with spiced tea, lavender, clove, pepper and forest floor. Full-bodied but fresh with velvety tannins and zesty acidity. The juicy plums and wild raspberry fruit is topped in sweet clove, coffee, pepper, tobacco, and an earthy-mineral component. A gorgeous, vibrant Zinfandel. Includes 10% Alicante, 10% Petite Sirah and 12 other varieties compose 2% of the blend, aged in old oak for 12 months. From the Alegria Vineyard, replanted in 1950. (91 points)

2016 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $33

Deep purple color. Nose boasts juicy, sweet black cherries, dark plums and blackberries, backed up by cocoa, vanilla and sweet tobacco. Velvety on the palate, full and juicy with medium acidity and plenty of juicy dark currants and plums. Notes of violets, coco, leather, tobacco, some savory notes as well. Easy-drinking, accessible now, yet shows some solid complexity and depth. Includes a combined 22% Syrah, Petite Sirah, Touriga Nacional, Malbec, and more. Aged 15 months in 30% new oak. (88 points)

2015 Beaulieu Vineyard Tapestry Reserve - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $65

Bright purple color. Rich and bold on the nose with a solid core of black cherries and currants, roasted plums, with sweet cocoa, violet petals, clove, espresso, and some underlying earthy, savory notes. Full-bodied on the palate with a rich, velvety tannic structure, moderating acidity underneath helps keep it relatively fresh, but this is a big, smooth red with lots of juicy black fruit. Very pretty, though, with violets, clove, mint, vanilla and cocoa notes, with earthy undertones. Really opens up with air, so I’d recommend decanting or sometime in the cellar. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 7% Malbec, 4% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot aged in 60% new French, American and Hungarian oak for 22 months. (91 points)

2015 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $150

Vibrant purple color. Nose shows deep, rich, pure fruit (blackberry, cassis, roasted fig), along with an intoxicating blend of violets, tobacco, eucalyptus, mint, and an earthy, rocky essence in there, too. So suave and texturally flashy the palate with a full, bold presence (15%+) but there’s a lively, elegant feel too, with velvety tannins and medium adity. Black currant and dark plums along with a complex mix of earthy, rocky, forest floor notes with sweet tobacco, espresso, mint chocolate chip, and a spicy potpourri element. Big stuff but it holds itself together really well, and while it can age wonderfully, I’m really surprised by how accessible this is right out of the gates. Includes 4% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 3% Malbec, aged 22 months in 90% new French oak. (93 points)

2015 La Jota Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain

SRP: $125

Bright purple color. Gorgeous aromatics that shift and evolve wonderfully: dark currants, black cherries, complex waves of graphite, smashed rocks, menthol, tobacco, espresso, violets. The palate is full but suave, and the tannins show grip but rounded edges, while the acidity is really bright and keeps me salivating. Pure black currant and tart blackberry fruit is laced with tobacco leaf, graphite, violets, mint, coffee, dark chocolate, espresso. Air does wonders to this wine, so I’d recommend a serious decant if opening in the next few years, otherwise feel free to properly cellar this and forget about it for a long time. Includes a combined 25% Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Aged 22 months in 65% new French oak. (95 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Vibrant & Delicious Australian Wines from Yangarra Estate

High Sands Grenache. Credit: Yangarrra Estate

Yangarra is one of those producers that has kept me interested in Australian wine when so many other American wine-lovers moved on.

I’ve found their wines boast plenty of sunshiny fruit, but I love the freshness, acidity and non-fruit complexity I get in these wines.

Located in the northeast part of the McLaren Vale, Yangarra is certified biodynamic and focused on the classic Rhone varieties. Grapevines have been planted on the estate since the late 1800s, but its modern history begins in 1946, when Bernard Smart planted unirrigated bush vine Grenache. This became known as the High Sands Vineyard (because of its sandy clay soil), and demand for the fruit from this vineyard grew and grew. Today, Yangarra’s vineyards comprise some 100 hectares, spread into 35 different blocks.

In 2001, Jackson Family Wines purchased Yangarra, and soon after local winemaker Peter Fraser took the helm. He uses wild yeast fermentation and judicious use of new oak, and the resulting wines have a purity of expression that I find really attractive.

I recently tasted through some Yangarra wines, and found across-the-board quality. The ceramic egg and skin-fermented Roussanne, as well as the High Sands Grenache, really stood out and wowed me. I received these wines as trade samples and tasted them sighted.

2017 Yangarra Estate Roussanne - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $35
Rich yellow color. Nose of apricot, lime, papaya, surprisingly vibrant fruit mixed with honey and orange blossoms. Plump texture, real depth on the palate, yet fresh acidity keeps the wine bright. Apricot, lime, green melon, pineapple, lots of fruit but it’s accented by honey, candle wax, white tea and ginger, notes of hay and salted almond. The balance here is really impressive, and the wine finishes clean and fresh. 13.5% alcohol, 100% Roussanne, aged 7 months in French oak, 10% new. (91 points)

2016 Yangarra Estate Roussanne Roux Beaute - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $50
Deep yellow, light orange color. The nose is wonderfully complex. It bursts with lemon curd, honeydew, white peach and lots of floral and spice notes (dandelion, mint, hay), even some subtle earth and desert after rain kind of notes – very cool. Medium-bodied (13.5%) with lovely freshness, beautifully integrated on the palate. Honeydew, lemon curd, peaches, and I love the complex floral tones, smashed rocks, minerals, hay, creosote – really complex and vibrant stuff. The textural depth adds all sorts of dynamics to this fascinating and delicious wine. This is all fermented in eggs, with half of the wine getting 137 days of skin contact. (94 points) 

2015 Yangarra Estate Grenache High Sands - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $100
Light purple color. Deep yet pretty aromatics of red and black raspberries, plums, red cherries, along with complex roses, violets, wild herbs and spices – a lot going on here. Full-bodied but velvety tannins, yet fresh acidity keeps it really lively. Tart cherries, raspberries, plums, the fruit is rich but tangy and laced with mint, eucalyptus, wild herbs, black pepper, rose potpourri, some coffee and cinnamon notes. There’s a deep, pervasive minerality here as well. Bold flavors but a lot of freshness and elegance. Very impressive stuff. From 70-year-old vines in sandy soils aged 11 months in old French oak. (93 points)

2016 Yangarra Estate Grenache Ovitelli - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $50
Deep ruby color. Such pretty aromatics of raspberries, red cherries, candied apple peel, along with a host of spicy, earthy, floral tones (rose petals, rhubarb, spiced chai, clay soil and dusty earth). Full-bodied on the palate with smooth tannins and medium acidity; there’s this effortless, balanced mouthfeel that is great. Flavors of raspberries, cherries and red apple, the fruit is juicy, rich but tart. Complex notes of earth, clay, spiced tea, rose hips, menthol and white pepper – such complexity in here. There’s a lovely briskness despite the richness. Deep, intriguing, lovely Grenache, fermented and aged exclusively in ceramic eggs. (92 points)

2014 Yangarra Estate Shiraz - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $35
Rich purple color. Nose boasts tart black cherries and currants, plums, lots of fruit but shows freshness too, and notes of black pepper glaze, violets, Turkish coffee and mint. Full-bodied, velvety tannins, moderating acidity, and plenty of juicy but tangy black and blue fruit (black cherry, cassis, blueberry). Notes of charcoal, coffee, vanilla, along with pepper, scorched earth and mint. Lots of depth and vibrancy in this wine — classic Yangarra style. All Shiraz, aged 13 months in ¼ new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Yangarra Estate Shiraz Ironheart - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $100
Deep purple. Deep aromas of black cherries, dark currants, roasted figs, along with violets, sweet cocoa, mint, menthol and warm clay. Full and rich on the palate with velvety tannins and medium acidity. Flavors of roasted figs, plum cake, black cherries, along with mint, pepper, violets, cocoa. There’s some earthy, dusty, spice rub mixed in here, too. A lot going on, and it’s bright despite its richness and depth. I’d love to taste this in five years. Aged 15 months in 45% new French oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Exceptional New Releases from Oregon's Troon Vineyard

I’ve been tasting the wines of Oregon’s Troon Vineyard for a few years now, and their new releases continue this winery’s tradition of excellence.

All Troon wines come from estate grapes in the cool Applegate Valley appellation of South Oregon. The winery sits at 1,400 feet above sea level, on a high bench above the Applegate River. Surrounded by the Siskiyou Mountains, the Applegate and Rogue rivers allow cooling Pacific breezes to flow into the valley in the afternoons, which helps keep the diurnal temperature shifts high.

The Troon team has been making a lot of effort in the vineyard of late, as the 2018 grapes were farmed organically and biodynamically. They expect their first Demeter certification with the next vintage. The wines are generally picked with brix measurements between 21 and 24, and the acidity really shines through in all of these wines. In the winery, all the wine are crushed by foot, fermentation is done with native yeasts, there’s no correcting for acids or sugars, and the wines don’t see any new oak.

Their range of releases is wide, from Skin-fermented Riesling, to Rhone whites, to Cabernet, Zinfandel, Syrah and Vermentino. In this new batch of Troon wines, I found, yet again, excellent wines at exceptional prices.

2017 Troon Vineyard Roussanne - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP $30
Medium yellow color. Apricot and white peach aromas, with lots of floral perfume, baby’s breath and lilies. Light-bodied, only 11% alcohol, which is kind of crazy for a Roussanne but this totally works. Texture is rich and waxy and dusty but acidity is there and keeps it fresh. Apricot and lime peel mix with yellow flowers, raw almond, and some flinty, stony notes. Complex, texturally fascinating, a very unique Roussanne. Barrel fermented, aged for 6 months in mature oak. (90 points)

2017 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Blanc - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP $30
Rich yellow color. Wow, aromatics pop with apricot, pineapple, orange marmalade, and complex elements of lamp oil, raw almond and herbal extract kind of thing – unique and interesting. 11.8% alcohol but texturally deep, creamy, chalky, with moderating acidity. The flavors are delicious (apricot and orange marmalade, mango, notes of salted almond and sweet white flowers), but the mouthfeel is just so lovely, and the most fascinating aspect of the wine. Really cool stuff. 52% marsanne 48% viognier barrel co-fermented, aged for 6 months in mature oak. (91 points)

2017 Troon Vineyard Vermentino - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP $18
Light yellow color. Pretty aromatics of salted lemon and lime, orange peel, along with floral, spice, herbal complexity. Lovely texture and balance with fresh, crisp acidity and a smooth and vibrant mouthfeel. Apricot, lemon, pineapple and orange, along with sea salt, crushed shells, honeyed white tea. A brighter, leaner version of the Whole Grape Ferment, but still plenty of depth and texture here. Insane value for the price. Barrel fermented, aged six months in mature oak, 12% alcohol. (91 points)

2017 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Whole Grape Ferment - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP $25
Medium yellow color. Fascinating aromas of apricot, orange and lemon pith, sea salt, white tea, hay, freshly cut flowers. On the palate, this is pristine and crisp, but crunchy and full of textural depth as well, with lovely balance. Apricot, lemon pith, along with complex elements of saline, crushed shells, white tea, bamboo and white pepper, seriously cool stuff going on here. Texture and mouthfeel on this wine is glorious. Barrel fermented and aged six months in mature oak, 12.6% alcohol. (92 points)

2016 Troon Vineyard Malbec Cuvée Cot - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP $35
Light purple color. Aromas of warm plum and blackberry compote, tart wild blueberries, and a cool mix of lavender, violets, black tea and warm clay. So vibrant and tangy on the palate, but structured tannins provide some grip. The black cherry, plums and blueberry fruit is tart and tangy, and laced with a complex mix of incense sticks, lavender, violets, loamy soil, black tea and tar. This is delicious now, but has the acidity, structure and fruit to age quite a while. 18 months in mature oak, 13.4% alcohol. (91 points)

2017 Troon Vineyard Zinfandel Kubli Bench - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP $20
Vibrant purple color. The aromas really pop with aromas of red cherries, strawberries, pomegranate, with notes of roses, pepper, lavender, some cola, I love this fresh, bright appeal. Suave and medium/full-bodied with crisp acidity and fleshy, velvety tannins. Crisp red and black cherries, pomegranate, strawberries, lots of fruit but an airy, more restrained feel. Complex elements of spicy tobacco, pepper, leather and a whole lot of red flowers. So pretty, so delicious. Zinfandel co-fermented with 3% Petite Sirah, aged 12 months in mature oak, 13.6% alcohol. Applegate Valley Zin, who knew? Not me, but this is eye-opening stuff. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: California White Wines for Summertime

Well, I never go too long without another batch of new releases from California. I’ve been receiving all sorts of different California wines lately, and the white wines especially are piling up. It’s been hot and humid here on the East Coast, and a lot of fresh 2017s are headed out to consumers, so I’m stoked to offer up some new releases that will get you through the heat.

Sure, there are plenty of uninspiring California Sauvignon Blancs, but I didn’t find any here — just some serious wines and distinct styles. Paso Robles offers up a few strikingly crisp white wines, and it continues a long run of exciting white wines I’ve tasted from Paso over the past year or so. A killer Kerner from Lodi (California’s only varietal Kerner) makes a serious impression, as does the new vintage of one of my favorite California Rieslings, Smith-Madrone’s Spring Mountain. Lastly, a few Chardonnays round out this report.

Maybe I got lucky with these samples (which I tasted sighted), but I couldn’t find a mediocre wine in the lot. 

2017 Lucas & Lewellen Sauvignon Blanc - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $18
Medium lemon color. Aromas burst with white peach, lime and grapefruit, along with yellow flower petals and cut floral stems. Crisp and zesty on the palate but moderately creamy texture. Bright lemon, grapefruit and white peach fruit, mixed with dandelion, white pepper and lemongrass. Crisp and clean and Spring-y. Includes 10% Viognier. (87 points) 

2016 Chalk Hill Sauvignon Blanc - California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $33
Light yellow color. Nose boasts peaches, green and yellow apples, with honeysuckle, lilies, crushed limestone and river rocks. Zesty on the palate with medium/full body and plush texture as well, with clean, crisp, mineral elements. Sea salt, chives, lemon grass, along with some chalk dust and white flowers. Pure, vibrant, pleasant Sauv Blanc. (89 points) 

2017 Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $25
A wonderful follow-up to the exceptional 2016 vintage, this light gold-colored wine bursts with aromas of papaya, lime, apricot, sea salt, lemon verbena. A creamy rich texture (14.6% alcohol), yet the acidity keeps it lip-smacking. Pineapple, juicy white peach, drizzled with limes. Notes of dried honey, white pepper, mint, with elements of minerals and raw almond. Pretty, complex, balanced Napa Sauvignon Blanc that delivers for the price. Includes a bit of Sémillon and Sauvignon Vert. (90 points)

2017 Rombauer Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $24
Lively yellow color. Aromas of limes, grapefruit, white peach, on top of mint and honeysuckle. Plush and juicy texture, zesty acid throughout, flavors of peaches, grapefruit and lime. Notes of cucumber slices, white pepper, lilies, mix with deeper notes of whipped honey. Balanced, easy-going, summer-friendly wine, but it sports seriously complexity as well, and offers a lot for the price. (89 points) 

2016 Robert Mondavi Winery Fumé Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $22
Light yellow color. Smells bright and lively with lemon and sea salt and white pepper, but also notes of pineapple and honey. Full-bodied and creamy texture to the palate, but the acidity is bright and crisp. Yellow apples, quince, lemon curd, the fruit is mixed with white pepper, oregano, salted almond, honey and seashells. Rich but nuanced, this is always a reliably good Napa Sauv Blanc, but 2016 is something special. Includes Semillon, this wine is all barrel fermented and aged six months in French oak. (89 points) 

2017 FEL Pinot Gris - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Bursts with aromas of pineapples, peaches, limes, white flowers and honey. Rich textural depth but crisp throughout. Nectarine, peaches, green melon rind, limes, topped with salted almond, floral perfume, cut flower stems, sliced cucumber. Fresh, lovely, seems like a perfect sushi wine to me. (88 points)  

2017 J. Dusi Pinot Grigio - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $24
Pale straw color. Aromas of peaches, limes, nectarines, with honeysuckle and clover. Tart acid on a medium-bodied frame, this PG has a steely and salty appeal with tart green apples and nectarine. Floral-spice notes, chalkboard, sea salt, this is so fresh (begs for oysters) but shows some impressive depth, too. This wine is not what you might be thinking – give it a shot. (88 points)

2015 Smith-Madrone Riesling - California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $32
Light yellow. Aromas of which peaches, salted limes, chalk dust, white tea and fresh tennis balls. On the palate this is juicy and zesty with live-wire acidity that kicks off the wine and finishes it. Gorgeous peaches, nectarines and limes, with complex minerals, ocean rocks, mountain streams. Lip-smacking stuff that leaves the palate salivating. Another great vintage of this Riesling, and t will surely age quite nicely for at least a decade. (91 points)

2015 Robert Mondavi Winery Chardonnay - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $24
Medium yellow color. Aromas of green and yellow pears, with white flowers and chalk contrasting against honey, nougat and cinnamon notes. Juicy palate with plump texture but refreshing acidity. Crisp green apple with richer bruised pear and glazed apricot. Notes of toasted almond, honey and cinnamon mix well with bright flowers. Classic Napa chard for the price, and the 2015 is lovely. Mostly barrel fermented in French oak (16% new) and aged nine months on the lees. (90 points)

2016 Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Jackson Estate - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $32
Rich yellow color. Aromas of almonds, honey, bruised apple, along with sea breeze and white flowers. Rich texture and it’s creamy and bold but also fresh acidity. Bruised apple, lemon curd, yellow pears, along with flavors of almond cake, cinnamon. Underlying notes of minerals, sea salt and ocean breeze. Lovely, rich, nuanced. Aged 10 months in 40% new French oak. (89 points)

2016 Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Jackson Estate Camelot Highlands - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $38
Bright gold color. Bright aromas of sea salt, almond, lots of ocean breeze, along with rich elements of toasted biscuits and toffee. Brisk acidity on the palate aligns with a rich texture, all balanced nicely. Lemon curd, bruised apple, pineapple upside down cake, along with toffee, almond, toasted biscuits, but there’s also a streak of chalk and seashells. Rich but lively, too, there is a lot going on here! Fermented and aged in 41% new French oak. (90 points) 

2016 Sidebar Cellars Kerner - California, Central Valley, Lodi Mokelumne River

SRP: $25
Bright yellow color. Peaches and dried mango, honey, some olive oil and spicy herbal elements as well. On the palate, the acidity is pristine, and it’s balanced wonderfully with a rich texture – but, wow that acidity carries this wine from start to finish. Lemon, white peach, yellow plums, mixed with dried white flowers, wild clover, honeysuckle, and a salty-mineral element that is delicious. Very impressive stuff. (91 points) 

2016 Steele Wines Writer's Block Roussanne - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $18
Light gold color. Bright aromas of apricot, nectarine, lime, a brighter aromatic approach than I usually get from this grape, but also some nougat, honeyed tea, chalk dust elements. Rich texture on the palate, this is a creamy but zesty and crisp wine. Apricots, green apples and pears, nectarine, topped in raw almond, honey, chalk dust and white tea. Delicious but also complex and a steal at this price. The freshness of this wine is crazy when compared with so many honeyed, oily California Roussannes (many of which I love), but this is a very crisp example. Sourced exclusively from Las Lomas vineyard, which sits in sandy soils at 1,500+ feet elevation. The wine is aged nine months in oak, 20% new. (90 points)

2017 Opolo Roussanne - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP: $18
Bright lemon color. Surprising bright aromas of chalk, ocean breeze, lemons, with some richer pineapple and cantaloupe notes. Pleasantly medium-bodied (13.5% alcohol) with moderating acidity, this isn’t your typical fat Roussanne. Lots of pineapple, apricot, white peach, drizzled with lime, with notes of tropical flowers and honeyed tea. Rich in flavors but lively in style. (88 points)

2017 Pomar Junction Vineyard Sidetrack - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles, El Pomar District
SRP: $15
Straw colored. A burst of wildflowers and clover on the nose, along with papaya, lime, guava, and notes of crushed shells. Full-bodied (14.2%) with a waxy textural dynamic underlined by moderate acidity. Flavors of pineapple, papaya, drizzled with lime and complex notes of chalk dust, limestone sea rocks, lemon verbena, spiced tea. I was shocked to see the retail price; this is bold but complex and nuanced. A blend of Viognier, 35% Roussanne and 15% Grenache Blanc. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

More Intriguing New Releases from Paso Robles

In September, I spent a few days exploring the winelands of Paso Robles, California, and came back with a renewed love of these wines and a deeper understanding of what makes them special. Diversity among grape varieties, blends and winemaking styles is on the rise in Paso, but Rhone and Bordeaux grapes (mostly red) dominate, and for good reason. Over and over again, these Paso wines show me richness of fruit combined with freshness and complex, non-fruit flavors.

Today’s report features three wines from Le Cuvier, whose wines blew me away when I tasted them in Paso Robles earlier this year. I jumped on the chance to taste a few more, and they were even better than I remembered. The skin-contact Viognier is exceptional, and the Grenache is one of the burliest things I’ve tasted all year.

Also included is an exceptional Roussanne from Alta Colina and a fascinating Aglianico from Giornata, which focuses on Italian grape varieties. Lastly, we visit a delicious Grenache-based red from The Farm Winery. Owned by Jim and Azmina Madesen, the wine is made in consultation with Azmina’s brother, Santiago Achaval, of renowned Mendoza powerhouse Achaval-Ferrer.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2013 Le Cuvíer Viognier Glenrose Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $59
Rich gold color. I’m loving the aromatics, olive oil, candle wax, almond, honeycomb, on top of mango, apricot jam and circus peanut candies. On the palate this has a rich and oily texture but actually some acid, so it helps balance things out nicely. Skin contact is evident in the mouthfeel, this drinks like a heavier orange wine, but stays fresh. Flavors of mango, apricot, orange peel, laced with complex elements of honeyed tea, spiced apple, almond cake, clove. Wow, this is so, so delicious, very complex, and certainly one of the most fascinating California Viogniers I’ve tasted this year. Lots of time ahead here. Aged more than three-and-a-half years in cask before bottling. (92 point)

2014 Le Cuvíer Grenache - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $59
Medium ruby color. Smells or rich, gushing cherries, strawberries, juicy plums, along with cola, sweet black licorice, menthol, pepper. On the palate, this is full-bodied and massive (17.3% alcohol!) with chewy tannins and low acidity, but somehow it all works for me. Tons of cherries, red apple peel, raspberry jam, the fruit is laced with rich earth, clay, fallen leaves, coffee grounds, red and black licorice, rose and violets, clove, cedar. So big and bold but complex as well, a brooding beast of a Grenache but so, so good. (91 points)

N.V. Le Cuvíer Pentimento - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $47
Dark and richly purple color. Smells jammy and rich with complex plum, roasted fig, blackberry jam, along with caramel, pie crust, coffee and fig cookies. On the palate this is full-bodied with medium tannins and medium-low acidity. Juicy and suave with sweet plums, figs, blueberry jam, mixed with coffee, cola, pepper, dark chocolate, cedar. Bold, rich, smooth, delicious. What a cool and unique blend, basically a blend of other finished wines. This is composed of 44% of last year’s Pentimento, with the rest coming from the 2014 Petite Verdot Kirk-Landry, 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Kirk-Landry, 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Conway and 2013 Malbec Kirk-Landry. (90 points)

2015 Alta Colina Roussanne Model Citizen - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $35
Rich golden color. Gorgeous aromatic display of apricot, yellow pears, cantaloupe, also lots of fresh aspects like clean laundry, baby’s breath, lilies, some almond. Full-bodied but surprising acidity, oily and waxy but balanced. Peaches, apricot, nectarine, the fruit is topped in baby’s breath, cut flower stems, sea salt, honeycomb, almond, salted caramel. Rich textural depth and lots of intense flavors but there’s a real sense of freshness in this wine, too, which I love. Aged in 25% new French oak for 16 months, no maloactic fermentation. (91 points)

One of the coolest uses of cork text I've seen: The Farm Winery
prints the names of the winery and vineyard workers on their corks!

2013 The Farm Winery Touchy-Feely - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $60
Deep ruby color. Gushes with aromas of sweet cherries, raspberry jam, and waves of cola, coffee, rose petals, black pepper, bold and hedonistic but lovely. Full-bodied (duh, 14.9%) but not heavy, the tannins have grip but feel suave and there is a surprising amount of acidity in this wine that makes it refreshing. Cherries, raspberries, dark plums, bold but fruit has some tartness to it. Notes of coffee, pepper, mocha, cola, clove and leather add complexity. Delicious, polished, really opens up with time so there’s no rush to drink this. From limestone soils, this is made from Grenache with 20% Syrah, aged in old French oak for 24 months. (92 points)

2015 Giornata Aglianico French Camp Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $30
Light purple color. Aromas of dark cherries and plum cake mix with coffee grounds, anise, sweet pipe tobacco, incense sticks and loamy soil. Suave on the palate but structure to the tannins and moderating acidity makes for a fleshy, smooth wine. Plummy with sweet black cherries and laced with cola, coffee, eucalyptus, loamy soil, incense sticks. Despite texture and depth, this is lively as well. Impressive Paso example of this grape! All Aglianico aged in 20% new French oak. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Hillsborough Vineyards: High Quality Virginia Wine from Loudoun County

Shades of green welcome visitors to the rolling hills of Loudoun County's wine country.

The Virginia wine scene has exploded in the 10 years or so that I’ve been paying attention. More and more wineries are popping up all over the state (in 2016, the state boasted more than 285). Virginia wineries sold more than 6.5 million bottles in fiscal year 2016, and sales have increased by 34 percent since 2010.

Living in the DC area, I make sporadic trips to Virginia wineries (in addition to tasting many more for reports on this blog and the daily wine site Terroirist.). But, with so many excellent producers, it’s getting harder and harder to keep up.

On a sunny day in May, I made a trek to Hillsborough Vineyards, nestled among the beautiful rolling hills of Loudoun County, to taste their new releases. I brought my toddler and a group of friends, and we spent a lovely afternoon tasting and chasing my kid through the vineyards. I knew I was in for solid Virginia vino, as I had tasted several Hillsborough wines not long before the trip. But the beauty of the location and the overall high quality of the wines still impressed me.

Cellar Master and Tasting Room Manager Jim Koennicke poured our group a range of Hillsborough wines and walked us through some history of the estate, its founders, and what makes their site unique. Hillsborough was founded by husband-wife duo Bora and Zeynep Baki, who hail from Turkey. They fell in love with the site that is now Hillsborough and set the building blocks for a boutique winery, which was finished in 2003. Today, the estate’s 36 acres contain 12 acres planted to vines, split into three vineyards. Winemaker Kerem Baki, who studied biochemistry and enology at Virginia Tech, keeps the family tradition going with some absolutely delicious wines.

Fascinating tidbit: Hillsborough is home to perhaps the only wine in the U.S. made solely from the Fer Servadou grape, which is indigenous to Southwest France. If this wine is any sign, this grape seems to do very well in Virginia’s humid climate, and I look forward to seeing if anyone else gives it a shot.  

If you live in the Washington, DC, area, I highly recommend a visit. It’s a beautiful area to hike and explore, and the wines will not disappoint. My notes on the wines I tasted are below…

Scoping out the vineyards at Hillsborough.

2014 Hillsborough Vineyards Carnelian - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County

$24

Nose of juicy apple and bright floral notes. Salty and peachy and spicy with lots of floral elements. 100% Roussanne, this is a crisp and bright Virginia interpretation of this grape. All stainless steel. (87 points)

2014 Hillsborough Vineyards Petit Manseng Opal - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County

$28

Aromas of honey, peach nectar, bright white flowers and herbal spice notes. Creamy, lovely texture on the palate with bright acidity. The peach and apricot fruit mixes with honeycomb, saline and chalky mineral notes. A gorgeous Virginia Petit Manseng. (90 points)

2014 Hillsborough Vineyards Merlot Rosé - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County

$26

For a rose, this is so dark ruby colored. Smells super-fruity with raspberry and strawberry jams. Bright but lots of fruit, shows wide appeal and zesty elements to keep it fresh. (86 points)

2013 Hillsborough Vineyards Syrah - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County

$28

On the nose this is smoky, peppery and earthy with bright red berries. Plump but bright on the palate with structured tannins and lots of freshness. Not super complex, but nice bright red fruits with pepper and smoke. (87 points)

2014 Hillsborough Vineyards Ruby's Blush - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County

$26

Sweet floral perfume and candied cherry aromas. Fruity and fun but not too sweet. A blend of 20% apiece of Tannat, Petit Verdot, Fer, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. (85 points)

2013 Hillsborough Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Vintners Selection - Virginia, Northern Virginia

$32

Nose shows lots of spicy pepper and leather on top of red currants. Plush and silky with strawberry and red cherry fruit mixed with savory herbs. Lighter style, but fresh and tasty. Includes 13% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc, aged 18 months in French oak and one in bottle before release. (86 points)

2014 Hillsborough Vineyards Moonstone Late Harvest - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County

$26

So much honey and pineapple and flowers on the nose. Rich but not cloying on the palate with lots of juicy pineapple and peach, notes of floral spice.  All late harvest Viognier with 5% residual sugar. (87 points)

2014 Hillsborough Vineyards Bloodstone - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County

$N/A

Such a spicy aromatic display with tart black currant, black pepper, leather, clove, sage and herbal liqueur. Juicy and tart with so much complex spice flavors (black pepper, beef broth, clove, grilled herbs). Unique flavor profile but some nice black currant fruit that balances out the spice. 100% Fer Servadou, which is supposedly the only such wine made solely from this variety in the United States. There’s another small vineyard of this grape nearby, but maybe there’s a bigger future for this grape in Virginia? (89 points)

Campovida Finds a Sense of Place in Mendocino

Photo courtesy of Campovida.

Campovida isn’t just a winery. It’s a 13-acre organic garden, a community supported agriculture program, a 10-room center for corporate retreats, a meeting space for “meaningful conversations.” Based in the small Mendocino County town of Hopland, the Campovida property once comprised the Fetzer Valley Oaks Food and Wine Center. The Campovida website is full of poetic musings about sustainable living, community, a sense of place. One thing you won’t find is a way to buy the wines. Yep, Campovida is a different kind of outfit.

The folks behind this project are wife-husband duo Anna Beuselinck and Gary Breen. Originally from Oakland, the couple bought the closed facility in 2006 and got to work. They must’ve been quite busy over the last few years.

Despite all the time I’ve spent in Mendocino County, I knew nothing about this project before I opened Campovida’s wines a few weeks ago. The wines (five whites and a rosé) were received as trade samples and I tasted all of them sighted. These wines were made by Sebastian Donoso. Born in Chile, Sebastian studied enology at Fresno State and made wine for Sacina before joining Campovida in 2012. (Click here for a Terroirist interview with Sebastian.)

As I tasted through the wines, I started to second-guess my senses. Was I really picking up all this freshness, acidity and minerality? But after thoroughly swirling and tasting, the wines had won me over. My notes…

2011 Campovida Viognier Riserva - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

SRP: $34

A yellow-gold color in the glass. On the nose, this bright wine explodes with lime and white flowers, green apple and a rocky, mineral aroma like some sort of mountain spring. A full-bodied palate provides weight to the tangy lime and apple fruit. A real sense of richness from the honeycomb and nougat, but it’s balanced by white tea, mineral notes and medium acid. Impressive stuff. (89 points)

2012 Campovida Chardonnay Oppenlander Vineyard - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

SRP: $36

Light yellow color. Perfumed and elegant on the nose, with white flowers, lime, mineral, sea spray, almost Chablis-like in its oceanic approach. The acid rips across the palate. The green apple, lime and tangerine rind fruit is tangy and intense, and the level of minerals in this wine is really awesome. What a brisk, fresh wine that speaks to the terroir of the Mendocino Coast. Singing now, but I’d actually like to set this down for two or three years to see what happens. (90 points)

2012 Campovida Roussanne Bonofiglio Vineyard - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

SRP: $32

Light gold color. Lovely perfumed nose of banana, white peach, circus peanut candy and lavender. Plump on the palate with a waxy mouthfeel, balanced with soft acid. I like the combination of tropical fruit (banana, mango and papaya) with these notes of lanolin and candle wax. Slightly nutty but not fat. Long finish. (88 points)

2012 Campovida Campo di Blanca Riserva - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

SRP: $32

The nose blends brighter tones of lime, orange and flowers with richer honeycomb, melted butter and hazelnut, and the combination is lovely. Rich on the palate but balanced by tangy acid and some fresh minerals. I get lots of pear, bruised apple and honey, and there’s a nutty and waxy feel to this wine, which isn’t overdone. A buttery aspect lingers on the finish, but the acid doesn’t stop. Richer than some of the other whites, but still balanced and delightful. A blend of 67% Marsanne, 22% Viognier and 11% Roussanne.  (91 points)

2012 Campovida Arneis Spirit Ranch Vineyard - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

SRP: $36

Very perfumed on the nose, with all sorts of citrus and flowers. The palate shows lemon, orange and apricot, along with some more tropical notes of pineapple and green melon. The acid shines through all the way, giving the wine an airy feel despite the ripe fruit. A white tea and honey flavor lingers on the finish. A Northern Italian grape has found a good home in Mendocino. (89 points)

Behold, an amazing pink!

2012 Campovida Rosé di Grenache Riserva - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

SRP: $34

A radiant copper-salmon color with the faintest spritz in the glass. Fresh aromas of watermelon, ruby red grapefruit, wildflowers and a subtle herbal note. Crisp acid kicks off the palate. The wild strawberry and white cherry fruit is snappy and fresh rather than ripe and sweet, and the minerals add to this wine’s overall verve. I also get some white pepper and grapefruit rind notes. Pure and delicious, this is one of the best domestic roses I’ve had in a long time. The Grenache comes from Trail’s End Vineyard in the Potter Valley appellation. At 1,000 feet in a relatively cool area, Grenache grapes don’t ripen as quickly, says winemaker Sebastian Denoso, allowing for lower sugar and more focused acid. (91 points)

If you’re in the Bay Area and looking to try Campovida’s wines, you’re in luck. In April, they opened a tasting room in Oakland called the Taste of Place. Located at 95 Linden Street, it’s open from 5-9 on Thursdays and Fridays and 1-6 on Saturdays and Sundays. “Going to Oakland has been a return to our own roots and beginnings of starting our lives as a family,” said Anna Beuselinck, “as well as connecting the urban and rural worlds.”

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.