Exploring Some Tasty, Rare, Alpine Wines

Dominique Belluard's Gringet vines. Credit: Selection Massale.

I've recently written about some high elevation wines from Arizona and Argentina. I'm fascinated by wines grown in high altitude vineyards. Maybe it's because of the novelty. Maybe it's because I love mountains. Or maybe it's because I find many of them to be crazy delicious.

Whatever the reason, I was excited to get together with some wine nerd friends for a dinner with a loose theme of "Alpine wine."

When you think of the word "Alpine" you, like me, may think: Switzerland. Well, the Swiss make some really good wine, but not much of it. They drink most of it themselves (smart folks, the Swiss), and little of it gets exported. As such, there's only a single Swiss wine in this bunch.

But we did gather up several wines from France's Savoie region (pronounced "Savv-WAH"). This region in far eastern France stretches south from Lake Geneva, abutting Switzerland, and has long been known as a source of après-ski wines. The vineyards are spread out in small enclaves, planted in diverse soils made up of glacial deposits, alluvial soils, lime-rich soils, clay, etc. Some of the grapes here are more recognizable (Roussanne, Chardonnay), but a lot of them are either indigenous or relatively obscure. In terms of white grapes (whites make up the majority of wines from this region) the popular ones are Jacquère, Altesse, Chasselas and Gringet. Mondeuse, Persan, Gamay and Pinot Noir lead the red grapes. While these wines are easier to find here in the States than Swiss wines, let's put them in perspective. Savoie wines make up less than 1% of France's total wine production. But, as this tasting demonstrated, there are some winemakers here doing fascinating things.

Valle d'Aosta is Italy's smallest, least populous region, dwarfed by neighboring Piedmont in terms of size, wine production, and international recognition of the region's wines. This mountainous region where Italy, France and Switzerland meet, is home to the highest elevation vineyards in continental Europe. The topography is so extreme, the amount of land available to plant vineyards is limited, and some of the vineyards are planted at elevations higher than 5,000 feet.

Lastly, we included a few wines from France's Jura region. This region isn't as topographically extreme as the other regions but the vineyards are still planted between 800 and 1,300 feet. The region isn't far from the Alps, this tasting group all loves Jura wines, and we're not sticklers for rules, so we included a few Jura wines into the mix as well.

Lastly, to top things off, I included a wine from the winery who holds the highest elevation vineyards in the world: Bodegas Colomé. Located in Argentina's Salta region, the winery itself sits at 7,500 feet, but it's Altura Máxima vineyard tops out at a mind-boggling 10,000 feet.

My notes on some fascinating and unique wines are below.

N.V. Lambert de Seyssel Seyssel Petit Royal - France, Savoie, Seyssel
This was a lot of fun, a Pet-Nat blend of Molette and Altesse. Rich nose of peaches, lemon curd, candle wax. Rich texture, nice depth, but really zippy and salty as well. Subtle bubbles, creamy-lees notes add texture. I really liked this stuff. (90 points)

2017 Renardat-Fâche Vin du Bugey-Cerdon - France, Savoie, Vin du Bugey-Cerdon
Perfumed and floral on the nose, with candied red fruit mixed with tea, herbs, cinnamon. Sweetness balanced by vibrant acidity and slight bubbles. Juicy, candied red fruits mixed with cinnamon, herbs and tea notes. Fun, crushable stuff. 7.5% alcohol, this is a unique méthode ancestrale blend of Gamay and Poulsard. (88 points)

2016 Robert Gilliard Fendant Les Murettes - Switzerland, Valais, Sion
Well, this was a pleasant surprise. At first it smelled quite “neutral” but with air and warmth it opened up to show peaches, lemon crème, airy/floral notes. Nice depth of texture, a waxy feel but bright acidity. Dusty mineral and chalk notes with hay, honey. Pleasantly subtle and nuanced. Made from the Chasselas grape (a.k.a. Fendant). (89 points) 

2016 Domaine Belluard Gringet Vin de Savoie Les Alpes - France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie
Dense nose – there is a lot in here – but it breathes and show lemon curd, honey, sea salt. Killer depth on the palate, there’s this plump texture but the acidity and minerality are laser-liked, focused, and pristine. Pretty apples and lemons mixed with minerals, smashed rocks, chalk dust and salted almond. Deep, pretty, this really started to sing after a few hours open. My wine of the night. (93 points)

2014 Domaine du Pelican Savagnin Ouille - France, Jura, Arbois
This wine evolved a ton with air. Deep yellow color. Heavy aromas, this is a dense wine, but it opens to show honey, nuts, nougat, saline, seaweed and a big heaping portion of lemon crème pie. The palate shows really rich texture, and the oak is evident, but there’s still this great saline aspect and crisp, crunchy acidity. Deep yellow fruits laced with minerals, honey, almond and salted butter. There’s a lot going on here, and it got more and more expressive. I’d love to see what this does with five to eight years of age. (92 points)

2016 Lucien Aviet Arbois Cuvée des Docteurs - France, Jura, Arbois
The funk blew off to show red apple, spiced tea, pepper and green herbs. Bright and spicy with raspberry and red apple peel, dusty tannins. Zippy and spicy with pepper and herbs. This got more and more smooth and refreshing with air. (90 points)

2016 Château de Merande Mondeuse La Belle Romaine - France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie Arbin
So much laffy taffy on the nose, along with pepper and black tea. The palate is dry, the tannins seem a bit bitter and green, medium acidity. Juicy purple fruit mixes with smoky earth, pepper and black tea. Interesting stuff, but not a very balanced wine. Maybe it deserved more time and air. Made from Mondeuse Noir. (85 points)

2017 Domaine des Ardoisières Vin des Allobroges Argile - France, Savoie, Vin des Allobroges
Loving the nose here, as it’s a big mix of spices and savory elements (pepper, leather, spiced tea, scorched earth) on top of juicy raspberries and black cherries. Plush texture on the palate, with dusty tannins and really lively acidity, the balance is lovely. Juicy raspberries and red apple doused in pepper, anise, charcoal, with smashed rocks and mineral notes. This got more and more expressive with air, and it was my favorite red of the night. A Gamay and Persan blend. (92 points)

2016 Grosjean Petite Arvine Vigne Rovettaz - Italy, Valle d'Aosta
Fascinating stuff. The nose is steely and floral with honey and lemon curd. Creamy depth on the palate but there’s bright acidity and a good dose of saline-infused mineral goodness. Fresh and vibrant with yellow apple, lemons, rich fruit but complex non-fruit elements as well. Balanced, complex, a lot going for it. (91 points)

2016 Bodega Colomé Malbec Estate - Argentina, Salta, Calchaquies
Deep purple color. Aromas are dark and tart with blackberry, blueberry, plum, with lots of loamy earth, cocoa, mint and graphite. Tangy acidity frames the wine nicely, balancing the moderate tannins, the balance is on point. Blackberry and tart blueberry, laced with mineral, graphite, earth. So pure and lively, this is showing very well now but I’d like to see it with a few years of age. (90 points)

Exciting, Unique Wines from France's Jura Region

Vineyard holdings of Domaine Desire Petit. Credit: Desire Petit.

I'm a huge fan of wines from France's Jura region. This stretch of land between Burgundy and Switzerland has seen a ton of increased focus from American consumers in the past decade.

And for good reason. Traditional (and otherwise obscure) grapes like Trousseau and Poulsard offer red wines like no other on earth. Not to mention the producers making terroir-mirroring examples of Chardonnay, and other grapes.

Weygandt Wines, my favorite wine store in DC, has long been importing exciting selections from Jura producers, many of which I buy each and every year. I recently attended a tasting of some of Weygandt's Jura selecions, and, per usual, found a lot to get stoked about. And considering most of the wines cost about $20-$30, Jura wines (if you can find them) are relatively inexpensive to explore. Sure there are those expensive cult bottles that nerds gobble up, but there's still plenty of value hidden in Jura.

My notes are below on the wines I tasted...

N.V. Les Granges Paquenesses Crémant du Jura (France, Jura, Crémant du Jura)
$22
Delicious stuff, as always from this producer. This is a bright and zesty cremant with floral, herbs, chalk dust flavors on top of apple and lemon fruit. For the price, so reliably good. 100% Chardonnay rom clay-limestone soils. (88 points)

2014 Domaine de la Pinte Chardonnay Arbois Pupillin Fonteneille (France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin)
$24
Richly aromatic, delicious on the palate with a nice combo of creaminess and zestiness. Apples and honey and almond laced with chalk dust and some herbal tea and spice elements. Crisp, mineral-laden finish. Yum. This is always a delicious and fascinating Chardonnay. (91 points)

2015 Domaine Ratte Arbois (France, Jura, Arbois)
$31
Love the spicy and herbal elements on this wine, lots of mineral depth and crushed rocks accent the juicy peaches and yellow pear fruit. Spicy, zesty, lots of minerals. From 60-year-old vines in the Grand Curoulet vineyard. Not sure if this is improving with age or a better bottle or I was just paying more attention but I liked this more than last times I tried it. Made from the Melon à Queue Rouge grape. (90 points)

2015 Domaine de la Borde Poulsard Arbois Pupillin Côte de Feule (France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin)
$29
Love this stuff for its spicy, floral, delicate aromas, with red apple peel and raspberry leaf. On the palate this is vibrant and smooth and tangy with light tannins and serious gluggability, despite significant complexity and depth of flavors: red apple, raspberry, savory broth, pickling spices, meat drippings. Delicious stuff. (91 points)

2015 Domaine Désiré Petit Trousseau Arbois Pupillin (France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin)
$22
Delicious stuff, bright and zesty but also intense and spicy. Red berries and earthy spice and clove. Elegant, harmonious stuff. (91 points)

2014 Domaine de la Pinte Pinot Noir Arbois (France, Jura, Arbois)
$30
Another good showing of this Pinot, which is amazing for the price. Spicy, red fruit aromas. The palate is bright and fresh but structure is there. Red fruits mix with spicy tobacco, herbs, rhubarb. I love this so much for the price. (91 points)

Summer of Jura - These Whites & Reds Pair Perfectly with Summertime

Remember the Summer of Riesling promotional campaign? That was fun, if a bit gimmicky. Riesling in the summer is a no-brainer, and I'm always keeping my eye out for delicious and crisp rose wines to combat the insane heat and humidity here in the mid-Atlantic. 

But this year I've been approaching summer sipping a bit differently: with Jura wines. 

Whites from grapes like Chardonnay and Savagnin provide oodles of minerality, brisk acidity, and tart fruit flavors. And the reds from this fascinating region in Eastern France work well in the heat as well. These wines (made from grapes like Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard) are not dense, heavy, extracted reds. Many of them drink like pink wines, with refreshingly lip-smacking flavors, and they taste delicious when chilled.

I've recently tasted through some beautiful Jura wines from my personal collection during the heat of this summer, and both worked really well.

2010 Domaine de la Pinte Arbois - France, Jura, Arbois
$20
Funky, medicinal and herbal liqueur aromas (I mean that in a good way), with tart red apple and white cherries. Light tannins at this point in its life, brisk acidity keeps this wine intensely bright and lip-smacking. Love the white and red cherry fruit, but at this point it's all about the earth, tobacco, herbal and spice components. Fun stuff, the Kevins and Ian dug this wine, too. We drank it chilled on a Saturday afternoon beach day in Atlantic City. This was a new, absurd, and awesome experience. Life is good. I'm not sure I'd age this much longer, though, but it's kicking. (90 points)

2012 Domaine de la Borde Arbois Pupillin Côte de Caillot - France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
$30
Medium gold color. The aromas are KILLING IT: Gorgeous mix of orange marmalade, lemon curd, shaved ginger, sea brine and crushed shells. On the palate, a waxy mouthfeel combines with brisk, bracing acidity, and the presentation is beautiful. Flavors of orange peel, lemon curd, salted lime and green apple glide across the palate with ease. Flavors of chalk, minerals, sea salt, brine, smoked herbs, honeyed tea, dried nuts, ginger - this is a complex ball of goodness that also seems effortless. Gorgeous stuff with a long finish. Must get more for the cellar. I drank this on a sweltering hot DC. (94 points)

Prime Time for Jura Wine

Jura wines boast their region in raised glass on the bottle.

I’m a huge fan of wines from France’s Jura region. They’ve been “hip” for quite a few years now – making appearances on natural wine lists at all sorts of wine bars and restaurants. My wine nerd friends and I love them, but the obscure varieties, small levels of production and old school labels and bottles might strike novices as strange. 

Sure some of these wines can be funky and earthy with intense acidity, and sometimes the whites show nutty and oxidized elements (depending on the producer and style). But I’m convinced Jura wines (sparkling, white and red) offer the wine newcomer an intellectually-fascinating and palate-expanding experience, but also a damn pleasurable one. When it comes to unique wines with quirky personalities and complex flavors, Jura wines are quintessential. 

The prices are right, that’s for sure. There are so many Jura wines that you can find in the $20-$25 range. As with any wine region, sure, you can spend more. But entry-level Jura wines are so much fun, and even the age-worthy wines frequently show well upon release. 

I recently tasted through a bunch of Jura wines at my favorite wine shop, Weygandt Wines in DC's Cleveland Park neighborhood. They've been importing a range of Jura wines for a while, and they're always on the lookout for new and exciting producers.

If you're looking for a unique and interesting wine, you can't do much better with $20-$30.

My notes:

N.V. Domaine Désiré Petit Crémant du Jura - France, Jura, Crémant du Jura
$21
Lots of spice and nutty elements on the nose. Creamy, spiced apple on the palate but so zesty. Flavors of toasted bread crumbs over oyster shells. Lots of fun, unique flavors. 100% Chardonnay. (88 points)

N.V. Domaine Désiré Petit Crémant du Jura - France, Jura, Crémant du Jura
$21
Zesty aromas of roses, baby’s breath and strawberries. Crisp and spicy on the palate, full of strawberries and white peach, accented by notes of white tea and spice. Very good for under $20. 100% Pinot Noir. (87 points)

2011 Les Granges Paquenesses Côtes du Jura La Mamette - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
$23
This is getting better and better with age. Lots of minerals and stones with some salted almond accents to the melon and orange fruit. I’m impressed by the depth and complexity this is gaining but it’s still so fresh and vibrant. (89 points)

2014 Domaine Didier Grappe Chardonnay Côtes du Jura Novelin - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
$25
So bright and clean, with flowers, sea spray and clean laundry on the nose. Creamy palate but so tangy and salty with a brightness that tingles onto the finish. (87 points)

2014 Les Granges Paquenesses Côtes du Jura La Pierre - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
$28
Non-oxidized style, this is a fresh, bright and salty wine with a lovely creaminess as well. Zesty but nervy, tons of mineral complexity, along with notes of honeycomb and white tea. Lovely stuff. (90 points)

2013 Caveau de Bacchus Melon à Queue Rouge Aviet - France, Jura, Arbois
$35
Smells peachy and clean with orange rind and lime juice. Rich but crunchy and salty on the palate. Lime and orange peels mixed with crunchy sea salt and hints of white pepper. Bright, long finish. Really interesting stuff – I’d love to cellar some for a few years and see what comes out. (90 points)

2014 Domaine Désiré Petit Arbois - France, Jura, Arbois
$21
I love the fresh aromatics of Trousseau, and this one is so perfumed: black tea, roses, spiced red berry compote. Crisp and juicy on the palate with red cherries and red apple peel. Clean and soft tannins with fresh acid. Salty and spicy on the finish. So good for the money. (89 points)

2011 Domaine de la Pinte Pinot Noir Arbois - France, Jura, Arbois
$30
Fresh, vibrant and floral aromatics, fresh raspberries and cherries. Silky but structured with fine, dusty tannins and, of course, bright, refreshing acid. Tart cherries and wild strawberries mix with black tea, bay leaf and pepper. Vibrant and open now but I’m interested to see what develops in the next two to four years. (90 points)

2014 Domaine Didier Grappe Côtes du Jura Insouciantes - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
$30
Very interesting aromatics here: wild cherries, red apple, grapefruit, and a host of spice and nut elements. Great acid, fine tannins, the crunchy red berries are laced with spices and herbs. That acidity is rocking and this wine is pure and vibrant. Trousseau, Ploussard and Pinot blend. (90 points)

My Most Exciting Wines of 2014

Whoa — 2014 is almost over? 

When I think back on this year’s awesomeness, it’s no wonder it went so damn fast. I kicked off the year with a wine trip to the Languedoc and Roussillon regions of Southern France, and had a blast exploring vineyards and tasting lots of organic and biodynamic wines.

I surfed some powerful swells on the East Coast this year. And I finally made it to my personal Mecca, South Africa, where I surfed some incredible waves and sipped many a fine wine. While here in DC, I tasted many great wines with friends and for tasting reports for the daily wine blog Terroirist. Oh, and my wife is pregnant with our first ─ a baby girl due in vintage 2015. So, yes, its been quite a year.

Like I’ve done in 2013 and 2012, I looked back over the year and picked out the wines that excited me most. When scrolling over my tasting notes from a full year, I remember not only the tasting experience but all the great people who shared the experience with me. Friends and family are a crucial ingredient to wine tasting, and I’m lucky to know some solid human beings. And I’m lucky they love wine.   

Champagne is well-represented this year. I’ve long been excited by wines from the Jura region of France, and this year I tasted a bunch of really interesting ones. We’ve also got some wines from two of my favorite American wine producers, Cayuse and Cameron. Their wines always stun me, and this year was no exception. And, look at that, a Barossa Valley Shiraz made the list.

I hope your 2014 was amazing and full of good wine and people. Cheers to 2015!

2013 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Bouzy Rouge Clos Colin - France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois
Cherry juice color. Intoxicating nose of white and red cherries, wild strawberries, dried cranberries, not to mention the fall leaves, violets, nettles and graphite. The palate is incredibly smooth and clean while the acid is electric, well-structured by the dusty tannins. Red cherries and raspberries, so fresh, tangy and pure, backed up by complex notes of loam, truffle, cigar smoke and gravel roads. The minerality in this wine is intense, and the overall package is so complex. More black fruit than the other two wines, this is the most intricate and lasting, at the same time it’s so delicate and elegant wine. I’m stunned. This limited still Pinot (6 barrels) goes into Clicquot's La Grand Dame Rose Champagne. (96 points)

2008 Cameron Blanc Clos Electrique - Oregon
I tasted this during an amazing wine dinner, and it got me stoked. Just intoxicating with its aromas: pineapple, lime, mixed nuts, white flowers, whipped honey, crushed chalk, sea salt, quinine, endlessly complex. Palate shows lots of melon and lime, plus crisp, racy acid. Salty, chalky, lots of seashells, a mineral-driven but it’s also full and creamy. Balanced but intense, deserving even more cellar sleep. 3.5 years since I tasted this and it’s just as amazing as it was then, if not slightly more complex and nuanced. An amazing Chardonnay. (96 points)

2005 Cameron Blanc Clos Electrique - Oregon
My first taste of this vintage, and I love it. I'm perpetually impressed by this wine, every vintage, but this one is classic. Aromas of saline, apricot, graham cracker, flowers, so deep and aromatically intriguing. Pure and fresh on the palate, this is a deep and incredibly complex wine. Almonds and white tea mix with quince, lime, apples and minerals. Endless finish. Creamy and rich but the acid sings. The C word (Chablis) was thrown out a few times, and it does have that depth and nerve, but it’s also pure Oregon goodness. A beauty. (95 points)

1985 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon - France, Champagne
Gorgeous juice. Apple cider colored with a nose of hazelnut, mushroom, potpourri, rye bread and baked apples. Tingly acid, full body, creamy, with incredibly complex notes of mushroom, dark bread, forest floor on top of candied citrus. An amazing experience. (95 points)

2004 Cayuse Syrah En Cerise Vineyard - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley
Beautiful stuff, holding up amazingly well. Smells like every kind of olive, bloody Mary, radish, seaweed, roses, wet earth and white pepper, and underneath some currants and plum sauce. Really velvety on the palate, with polished tannins and tangy acid in perfect balance. Juicy and fleshy with raspberry and black cherries, but this is all about the non-fruit flavors: olive tapenade, seaweed, roasted meat, smoke, pickled beets. Also some sweet floral and caramel notes. So long and pure and complex. I love the state this wine is in right now. Not sure how much longer I’d cellar this if I had some. (95 points)

2004 Cayuse Syrah En Chamberlin Vineyard - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley
Deeper and darker on the nose than the 04 Cailloux tasted side by side. More plum cake, baked berry pie, more black olives. I also get a meat and seaweed note. Plummy and rich with blueberries, almost cough syrup-like presence, but it’s actually very pleasant and precise at the same time – somehow. So many complex flavors to unpack: fall leaves, bacon fat, teriyaki jerky, also some dried rose potpourri and lavender notes. A feast for the senses and a beautiful accompaniment to the slow cooked lamb shoulder. (95 points)

2002 Two Hands Shiraz Ares - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
The cork was in great condition, the purple having oozed into the cork only an 1/8th of an inch or so. Aromas of plums, blueberry pie, pickled beets, braised meat and BBQ sauce. The palate is rich and bold but also fresh from some medium acid. Dense and plummy with blueberry and fig paste. I also get some roasted red peppers, capers and olive brine. Rich and bombastic, but also velvety and kept in some level of balance by the acid. The label reads 13-16% alcohol, but it’s gotta be 15+. Still packed with flavor and nuance, with a long finish full of black and green olive. At 12 years old, this is a beautiful Aussie Shiraz. If kept in perfect condition, this is doing well, but perhaps time to drink up over the next year or two? (94 points)

2000 Domaine Ganevat Côtes du Jura Les Vignes de Mon Père - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
What a cool wine. Color of dried honey with some spritz in the glass. Smells like my wetsuit after surfing in winter on the East Coast, with sea brine and jetty rocks and seashells all thrown together, and that is a very good thing. The acid rips across the palate, and the lemon seed and green melon notes are strong and complex, backed up by mineral, white tea and all sorts of green herbs and pickling spices. Not for the unadventurous, but I think this wine slays. (94 points)

2009 Jacques Puffeney Savagnin Arbois - France, Jura, Arbois
A crazy interesting wine. Aromas of hazelnut, sea salt, oregano, dried honey and lamp oil. Medium-bodied with bright acidity, the oxidative winemaking is obvious and intriguing, but I love the way it weaves into the other elements instead of dominating the entire wine. Flavors of green apple and apricot, laced with sea brine, jetty rocks, crushed peanut shells, oil and brie rind. Long, complex, deep, this maintains freshness and vibrancy throughout. I need to pick up some more and bury it for a decade because I'm interested to see what comes out. (94 points)

2013 Hamilton Russell Vineyards Chardonnay - South Africa, Walker Bay, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley
This was one of my favorite wines from my trip to South Africa. It’s a deep, complex aromas of peach, flowers, slate, honey and minerals. So pure, clean and fleshy on the palate, with flavors of white peach, pear. lemon curd, apricot and green melon. Creamy but mineral-driven, so complex yet subtle and nuanced, with all sorts of tea and slate notes. Long, complex, verging on the profound. Wow. I’d love to cellar this for two or three years. (94 points)

2004 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Brut Rosé La Grande Dame - France, Champagne
Vibrant copper-salmon-orange color, a bit deeper in color than the 2004 Brut Rosé. Such aromatic complexity, it really takes time to open up and show its true stuffing: strawberries, apricot, red apple peel, limestone, oyster shell, sea breeze, biscuits and a hint of smoke. Tart acid on the palate, this is an intense wine but it maintains an elegant posture despite itself. Red cherries, currants and wild strawberries play off of minerals, chalk, oyster shell. Lovely toast and brioche, I get some really interesting notes that I can’t quite place, something like barley and sweet onions, but whatever it is I love it. Time coaxes out all sorts of complexity. A beautiful wine, but decades away from maturity. The Pinot in here comes from the Clos Colin plot of Bouzy, so it was fascinating to taste this wine alongside the still 2013 Clos Colin Pinot Noir. (94 points)

Friends, Bottles & Broken Bones

One of the things I love most about wine is its ability to bring people together. Writing, on the other hand, is a solitary pursuit.

But last week I got the chance to share wine and writing with some friends to celebrate the launch of my first novel, Broken Bones. We got together at Weygandt Wines, one of my favorite wine shops anywhere, to sip some wine and catch up.

I plan on hosting a bigger launch party soon, as well as readings and perhaps another tasting. To keep up with future events, follow Broken Bones on Facebook or me (@IsaacJamesBaker) on Twitter.

Here are some notes and pictures from an awesome night...
 

N.V. Nicolas Maillart Champagne 1er Cru Brut Platine - France, Champagne
As always, a solid Champers. I got lemon cake, sea breeze, toast and yellow apples on the nose. Crisp and creamy on the palate, with crushed rocks and seashells to accent the toasty almond and yellow apple fruit. Definitely a fan-friendly Champagne, but also showing some serious complexity. (89 points)

N.V. Ulysse Collin Champagne Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne
An almost orange color in the glass. Aromas of lemon zest, dried pineapple and flowers, sea salt. Tangy and mineral-driven on the palate, but this also has a lot of depth and power, like dried pineapple and mango, along with some apple peel and apricot. I also get some saline and sea brine notes. A lot going on here, and I dig it. Seems like this has aged well, although I'm not sure of the date when it was disgorged. (88 points)

2002 Meulenhof Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Cork and wine were in perfect condition. Lots of apricot, lychee and slate on the note, with some spice and crushed sweet tarts. Ripping acid on the palate, very dry, with flavors of green apple peel, lime and apricot. I also get sweet tart candies, sea salt and crushed rock notes. Dry, nervy, complex, holding up well. (90 points)

2010 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Nahe
Every time I drink a 2010 German Riesling, especially a Donnhoff, I have competing thoughts. #1) This wine is so amazing and ripping I just want to drink it all the time. #2) Bury this wine for 10-30 years and don't you dare touch it! Isn't that the hallmark of an amazing vintage? I love 2010s, and Donnhoff's are just epic. I picked up sweet tarts, lime, margarita salt, crushed rocks and slate notes on this one. The palate shows ripping acid, alongside clean lemon-lime and white peach notes. Honey mixes in with the minerals and sea shell notes. Long, complex, deserving of cellar time and, at the same time, immediate praise. (92 points)

2010 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Very rich, one of the richer 2010 Mosel Spatleses I've tasted. Aromas of apricot and papaya drizzled in lime juice and crushed rocks. Chunky pineapple, apricot and honey on the palate. The acid is relentless, though, giving the wine verve. I get nougat, honey and gingerbread cookies on the finish, but also some citrus peel and minerals. This wine could use 10 to 15 years in the cellar, easily, because this density and richness will take a long time to complex, but the racy acid will hold this wine for a long time. (91 points)

2012 Michel Gahier Arbois Ploussard - France, Jura, Arbois
Another solid wine from Gahier. I love the tart red fruit, floral, rhubarb and pickle notes on the nose. Zesty acid, very fine tannins, lots of tart raspberry and strawberry fruit. I get a ton of pickles, tobacco, bay leaf, radish, all sorts of earthy, tangy, vegetal notes, and I love it. This paired really well with a red pepper and garlic pizza. (90 points)

2005 Domaine Matrot Volnay 1er Cru Santenots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Tight and dull at first, but really opened up after about two or three hours, and was singing the next day. Floral, spice, tobacco and cherries on the nose. Firm tannic structure, medium+ acid, with tart red fruit. Notes of roses, rhubarb and mineral on a long, crisp finish. It was delicious but I wish I would've let it sleep for another five years. (91 points)

2009 Novy Family Wines Syrah Rosella's Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
Two years since my last bottle and this has aged wonderfully. Opened the day before and tasted, but left the rest for Day 2, when it really began to sing. A kind of roasted plum color. Aromas of black currants, plums, black olive, soil and herbs. I like the tart red and black fruit and the freshness from the acid. Not overbearing or too rich at all, actually quite silky. More braised meat, smoke and charcoal aspects than I remember from before, some olive bring and coffee as well. Long and pure, pretty much everyone enjoyed this. Such a good buy for $28 from the winery; too bad I don't have any more. (91 points)

2004 Cayuse Syrah En Cerise Vineyard - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley
Beautiful stuff, holding up amazingly well. Smells like every kind of olive, bloody mary, radish, seaweed, roses, wet earth and white pepper, and underneath some currants and plum sauce. Really velvety on the palate, with polished tannins and tangy acid in perfect balance. Juicy and fleshy with raspberry and black cherries, but this is all about the non-fruit flavors: olive tapenade, seaweed, roasted meat, smoke, pickled beets. Also some sweet floral and caramel notes. So long and pure and complex. I love the state this wine is in right now. Not sure how much longer I'd cellar this if I had some. (95 points)

  

N.V. Duval-Leroy Champagne Brut - France, Champagne
Aromas of seashell, white flowers, minerals, toasted biscuits. I like the combination of tart green apple, lime and sea shell notes with the richer tones of honey, almond and biscuits. Tart but toasty. Digging this. (88 points)

N.V. Chambers Rosewood Muscat - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
Rich caramel, toasted nuts, raisins and orange marmalade on the nose. Rich and honeyed on the palate, packed with figs and dates, caramelized sugar and candy-coated almonds. Rich and bold, lacking enough acid to get me really thrilled about it, but overall this is a lot of fun. (88 points)

Rocking Jura Wines from Domaine de la Pinte

Bruno is the man. 

Bruno Ciofi seems perpetually stoked about life. He’s always smiling and sharing stories, and whenever I asked him a question, he listened carefully, took it to heart and provided thoughtful answers from a unique perspective. Talk to him for just a few minutes, and you realize you’re stoked about life as well.

I’ve been a fan of Bruno’s Jura wines for years, having tasted many of them at Weygandt Wines in DC, which imports them. But I’d never had the pleasure of meeting the man behind Domaine de la Pinte until I ran into him at Millésime Bio Fair in Montpellier in January.

His wines are packed with character. Quirky, yet elegant, they scream Jura with their fresh acid and mineral tones, yet the wines avoid some of the more extreme elements associated with the region, like oxidization and intensely funky flavors. I chatted with Bruno for a good 40 minutes or so, tasting some wines I hadn’t tried before. 

I had an absolute blast and was reminded again why I love Jura wines, and why Domaine de la Pinte is such a special producer.

My notes…

2011 Domaine de la Pinte Chardonnay Arbois Pupillin “Fonteneille” - France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
A blissful and unique Chardonnay. A special selection from limestone and blue marl soils, it smells like dried apricot, clover honey, lemon verbena and crushed rocks. Rich texture but terrific acid and a pure stream of minerals throughout. Yellow apple and green pear fruit are matched with minerals, sage, lemon pepper and mountain stream notes. Such minerality and elegance. Love this stuff. (91 points)

2011 Domaine de la Pinte Arbois “del Ami Karl” - France, Jura, Arbois
Aromas of smoke, sour cherries, pickles, clay and a note that reminds me of red beet. All about the freshness on the palate, with crisp acid and lots of minerals. Tangy sour cherry fruit mixes with clay, tobacco and dried rose flavors. Not quite as good as I remember the 2010, but another delicious Poulsard from Bruno. (89 points)

Bruno's loyal assistant... asleep on the job at Millesime BioFair.

2011 Domaine de la Pinte Arbois “a la capitaine” - France, Jura, Arbois
Light rose color. Smells like cranberries, rose hips and dried herbs. Such freshness on the palate, with tart berries and red apple peel, matched by notes of roses, dusty road and crushed limestone. So elegant and crisp with a tobacco-laced finish. A blend of Pinot, Poulsard and Trousseau. (90 points)

2011 Domaine de la Pinte Melon à Queue Rouge Arbois Pupillin - France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
Highly aromatic, with honey, peach and a floral-grass note that reminds me of daffodils and hay. Creamy texture, live-wire acid and such purity on the palate. Nectarine and honeydew melon mix with dried honey and peanut shell. I like to generous feel but it's still precise and elegant. (90 points)

2007 Domaine de la Pinte Savagnin Arbois - France, Jura, Arbois
Aromas of yellow apple, dried honey, wax and an aroma that reminds of wood after it's been rubbed with that lemon-scented dusting oil, as crazy as that may sound. Tangy as hell on the palate, but full and creamy. Green pear and apricot mix with nutty, dried honey notes. The wine spends 18 months on the lees and five years in barrel, although the oxidation is controlled and not overwhelming. (91 points)

N.V. Domaine de la Pinte Arbois “Cuvée d'Automne” - France, Jura, Arbois
Exotic on the nose, rich and waxy with lemon peel, smoke and floral incense. Nutty, complex on the palate with nectarine, dried pineapple and yellow apple. I get some nutty, dried wax notes as well. The oxidation is minor, and as Bruno describes it, this wine is a fresher alternative to Vin Jaune. Really unique and tasty, this would be a great pairing with all sorts of cheese. A blend of 80% Savagnin from 2006 (some of which is oxidized) and 20% Chardonnay from 2008. (90 points)

2005 Domaine de la Pinte Arbois Vin Jaune - France, Jura, Arbois
Smells like nuts, hay, dried wax, lemon peel and white pepper. A complex mix of aromas. Full and waxy on the palate, complex, but full of fresh acid. Flavors of almond, lemon oil, sea brine and green olive combine in a unique package. Finish with notes of preserved lemon, nuts and graham cracker crust. Despite the oxidation, it's still fresh and subtle, and not overwhelming given this style. Delicious stuff, I'd love to cellar some for a decade to see what happens. (91 points)

N.V. Domaine de la Pinte Arbois Vin de Paille “Paradoxe” - France, Jura, Arbois
Aromas of glazed pear, peach, honey, preserved lemon and an oily-waxy note. Flavors of apricot, sweet pineapple, honey and mixed nuts on a full-bodied frame with lovely acid. I love the combination of freshness and fullness, and the sweetness is much more reserved and balanced than a lot of dessert wines. Caramel-laden finish. Bruno calls this wine Paradoxe because he says it tastes less sweet than it actually is. Delicious stuff. (91 points)

Grab Bag Whites with Good Friends

When drinking wine with good friends, German riesling is always a wise choice.

My friend Tooch and I have been drinking wine together for five years. We’ve shared hundreds of bottles from practically every premium wine region in the world. Last year he moved from DC to Chicago, and Friday was his first day back in town for 11 months. Naturally, our tight-knit wine crew threw a tasting at our favorite wine shop, Weygandt Wines in Cleveland Park. We didn't plan ahead for a theme, and  everyone just bought a bottle they wanted to share with good friends. Based on the wines people brought, the tasting took on several themes of its own: Burgudy, the Jura, the Loire Valley, German riesling. There were a lot of people and even more bottles. (I believe the final body count was 30-something.) There was no way I could make it through all the wines on the table, so I had to prioritize.

Here are some notes on some of the white wines in the tasting. You know, when I'm drinking such good wine and hanging out with good friends, I can’t help but think: I'm a blessed guy.

2009 Rudi Pichler Grüner Veltliner Federspiel - Austria, Wachau
Not a bad way to start off the tasting. Initially a bit closed, but with some air and time the wine opened up to show slate, lemon and white pepper. Very bold palate, with delicious acid, and gummy white peach fruit. Finish is laced with minerals. Classic Rudi Pichler. 88 points

2008 Domaine de Montbourgeau L'Etoile - France, Jura, L'Etoile
This is an extreme wine, even for Jura chardonnay. Seriously, it smells like my wetsuit after surfing for hours on end, complete with hints of seaweed, brine and sea salt. Hints of lemon and sherry round out the nose. Massive acid on the palate, along with clean flavors of lemon, quince, almonds and sea salt. This wine is quite young, and I imagine it would show better in a few years. This chardonnay is powerful enough to stand up to pretty much any sharp cheese. 88 points

2010 Domaine Servin Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre - France, Burgundy, Chablis
I pretty much knew this wine was going to be awesome, but it still surprised me. Very young, but stunning. Aromas of lemons, limes, limestone, salt and crushed rocks. High acid from start to finish, buttressed by green pears and apples, bright minerals, seaweed and salty air. Long, crisp finish. Bring on the oysters because this stuff is simply beautiful. The Montée de Tonnerre vineyard is one of my favorite places for chardonnay, and in 2010 Domaine Servin really nails it. 93 points

2002 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel
I always welcome a Christoffel Erben riesling to a tasting, and this 2002 showed quite well. Vibrant peach on the nose, hints of petrol and honey as well. Still smells youthful. The palate shows nice balance between fruit and acid. Lovely white peach and lychee flavors, along with minerals the first signs of petrol. More of a boisterous wine than an elegant one, but it's delicious. 90 points

1990 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhauser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel
An absolutely beautiful aged riesling. Gorgeous aromas of petrol, orange peel, marmalade and a hint of white flower. Huge acid on the palate provides freshness and elegance, supporting the rich flavors of dried pineapple, mango and apricot. Fleshed out with nougat and bracing minerals. This is everything I love about Mosel riesling, and Maximin Grünhauser in particular. I'd love to taste this again in five years. There was a lot of discussion amongst the older folks at the tasting that 1990 was their favorite vintage. With a wine like this, it's understandable. 93 points

2005 Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Pfalz
Hmmm... strange wine. First of all, it's only seven years old but it's got the orange color of a 20-year-old riesling. Aged aromas of peach juice, honeycomb and dried mango. The palate has a lot of honey, dried apricot and even caramel flavors. I can't believe this is only a spätlese, as the sweetness is reminiscent of an auslese. Lower acid than the other rieslings in the tasting, but low acid for 2005 in general. I don't know how this wine got so old so quickly, but it's a riesling to drink in the near term. 84 points

2010 Patz & Hall Chardonnay Sonoma Coast - California, Sonoma Coast
Aromas of peanut shell, buttered popcorn and green apple. Actually some solid acid on the palate, nice bit of kick. Flavors of lemonhead candy, buttered cookies and green apple. I like the cut to this wine. I’m a fan of this producer’s pinots, and I was expecting a bit more from their chardonnay. 86 points