For a few years now, I’ve been tasting the winning wines from Colorado’s Governor’s Cup, and this week, I’m focusing on the 2019 winners.
The Rocky Mountain State has some 150 wineries, which grow grapes in vineyards upwards of 4,000 feet in elevation. Riesling, Rhone varieties, Bordeaux blends, and some quirky, inventive stuff as well, the styles have been all over the map. Each year, I find a few that really pop out and make me think: there’s a lot more to explore here, especially on a trip (whenever we can go on trips again).
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2018 The Storm Cellar Mesa Dry Riesling - USA, Colorado, West Elks
SRP: $22
Pale lemon color. Bright and chalky nose, with lemon, orange peel, guava, mixed with white flowers, honeysuckle, tea and wet slate. The palate is dry, fresh, pure, it has a mountain stream sense of clarity, with lemon, quince, guava fruit. The flinty, mineral, lemon verbena notes add all sorts of complexity. Nervy, dry, talc-infused finish. Color me impressed with this Colorado Riesling, from their oldest Riesling vines in rocky soils. The value here is something else. (90 points)
2018 Carlson Vineyards NSFW - USA, Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $12
Pale lemon color. Super peachy on the nose with guava, lemon pith, honeysuckle. Fleshy texture, crisp acidity, this has a light and punchy style with lemon, green melon and lots of canned peach fruit. Some floral perfume and chamomile tea elements as well. Fun, fresh blend of Vidal Blanc, Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer. (85 points)
2016 Plum Creek Cabernet Franc - USA, Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $23
Dark ruby color. The nose shows red cherries, plums and raspberries, with hefty doses of black pepper, herbal tea and dried rose petals. Full-bodied, smooth and velvety tannins, vibrant acidity, there’s a lively, balanced appeal to this wine with tangy cherry and tart plum fruit. Notes of cocoa, coffee, pepper, leather and rose petals add some complexity. Round, fresh, nice stuff! (87 points)
2016 Bookcliff Vineyards Ensemble - USA, Colorado
SRP: $22
Deep purple color. The nose shows tart black cherries, currants and plums. Dense and smoky elements with earth, violets and coffee grounds. Full-bodied, solid grip on the tannins, medium-plus acidity, things line up pretty well on the palate. Crunchy tart black cherries and dense fruit, I like the concentration and tanginess. Earthy, pencil shavings flavors, along with smoky oak and vanilla. Well-balanced, a bit oaky, but well-done Bordeaux blend. (87 points)
2016 Bookcliff Vineyards Graciano - USA, Colorado
SRP: $N/A
Deep purple color. Smells of cassis and black cherries, with tar, sweet pipe tobacco, mint and dark chocolate notes. Full-bodied on the palate with smooth tannins and fresh acidity. Plummy, saucy black cherries, some stemmy notes but they’re subtle. Notes of tar, smoky charcoal and spiced black tea round out this wine. Oaky but not too heavy, I’d like to see what this does in two or three years. (86 points)
2017 Colterris Petit Verdot - USA, Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $24
Deep violet color. Aromas of black cherries and roasted figs with cocoa and violets. Vibrant acidity opens up the wine, with grippy tannins, but not too harsh. Sweet blueberry and fig, rich, jammy fruit, a saucy style. Coffee, coconut and dark chocolate flavors, the oak overpowers some elements but the wine still shows a balanced feel. Could definitely use some time to unwind. (86 points)
2016 Snowy Peaks Winery Petite Sirah - USA, Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $29
Dense purple color. Aromas of deep blueberry and fig paste, along with anise, violets and mocha. Deep but tart on the palate with black cherries, blueberry and roasted fig fruit, while the tannins show grip, and the acidity balances things out quite nicely. Elements of tobacco, campfire smoke, black tea, along with beefy, peppery notes. Bold but nuanced, this is a really solid Petite Sirah. From a 7,500-foot vineyard, aged 12 months in French oak. (88 points)
2017 Qutori Wines Syrah - USA, Colorado
SRP: $30
Bright purple color. Spicy as heck on the nose, with mesquite, tar, black olive and cigar smoke on top of black currants. Full-bodied, smooth tannins, bright acidity, with deep currants and sweet, jammy black cherries. Beefy, grilled herb and anise notes. Ripe but fresh, it is a bit hefty, but the acidity keeps it lively. Aged 18 months in a mix of Hungarian, French and American oak. (86 points)
2017 Red Fox Cellars Nebbiolo - USA, Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $38
Medium ruby color. Aromas of tart cherries, raspberries, red apple, with spicy herbs and rhubarb notes. Full-bodied on the palate (15% alcohol) with solid grip and zesty acidity. Tangy cherries and red apple peel fruit are mixed with cocoa, black pepper, with notes of mushroom and tar. Nice tartness and concentration here, perhaps a few years will help this open up more. (86 points)
2018 Bonacquisti Wine Company Tempranillo - USA, Colorado
SRP: $N/A
Medium ruby color. Aromas of juicy raspberries, red cherries, sweet cranberry sauce, with violets, roses and cola. Medium/full-bodied with velvety tannins and really fresh acidity. Flavors of sweet plums, raspberry jam, black cherry cola, with elements of mint chewing tobacco, coffee, toffee and cedar. Fun stuff, fruit-forward but the acidity lifts this wine up and makes it easier to drink. (85 points)
N.V. Vino Salida Vermouth di Salida - USA, Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $19/375ml
Deep salmon color. Super spicy aromatics that pop, like anise, clove, cigar smoke, and white pepper over cranberry relish and candied apple peel. Full-bodied but fresh acidity sets the frame for wild raspberry and cranberry relish, topped in a hefty dose of clove, black licorice, some rhubarb, rose petals and black tea. This is really fun, sipping as an aperitif, or for use in cocktails. Brandy infused with all sorts of spices, blend with a base wine of Black Moscato, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, sweetened with Colorado honey. Unique, interesting stuff. (86 points)
2018 Whitewater Hill Moscato - USA, Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $N/A
Light yellow color. Juicy and sweet aromas of white peach, lychee, guava nectar, with floral spice and honey. Plush and sweet on the palate with medium acidity and plenty of plump white peach and lychee fruit, topped in honey and circus peanut candies. Yummy, fun, summertime sweet Moscato. (84 points)
N.V. Carlson Vineyards Cherry - USA, Colorado
SRP: $N/A
Color like cherry liqueur and bourbon, really cool. Ripe cherries and raspberries on the nose with a streak of cinnamon sticks, mint and spiced tea. Plush texture, vibrant acidity keeps the sweetness in balance. This shows tangy cherry and stewed strawberry fruit, with a big punch of cinnamon and clove. Spicy, juicy – I could see using this in some cocktails. From Montmorency cherries. I’m no fruit wine fan, but this is pretty solid. (84 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
Isaac James Baker is a wine lover and writer, wildlife photographer, hiker, climber, and all-around fan of wild places and experiences.
Showing posts with label Colorado wine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Colorado wine. Show all posts
Saturday, April 18, 2020
Saturday, February 16, 2019
Digging into Colorado Wine with the 2018 Governor's Cup Winners
Back for the fourth time, I’m digging into some wines from the state of Colorado. Yep, it’s more than just good beer in the Centennial State.
I recently tasted through the winners of the 2018 Colorado Governor’s Cup. Like Virginia’s renowned Governor’s Cup, the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board kicked off a similar program in 2011. In 2018, 46 Colorado wineries submitted 344 wines to the competition. These wines were judged by a panel of somms, chefs, writers, and wine experts, including Warren Winiarski. They chose a baker’s dozen worth of winning wines.
Colorado is a huge state, but it doesn’t crack the top 10 states in terms of wine production. The state’s winegrowing regions boast plenty of sunshine, low humidity, diverse soils, offering up plenty of opportunity to grow quality wine grapes. And, fun fact: the state’s two American Viticultural Areas (Grand Valley and West Elks, located in the western part of the state) are the highest elevation appellations in the country.
More and more, it seems to me, Colorado winemakers are not afraid to experiment and strike their own path, like Infinite Monkey Theorem’s quirky blends and branding aesthetic, and Red Fox’s Teroldego in this report. This is the most impressive batch of Colorado wines I’ve tasted yet. Now, to get out there for some tourism.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2017 Colterris Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé “Coral” - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $22
Pale salmon color. Nose shows white peaches, white cherries, white lemon verbena, sea salt, white pepper and cut flower stems. Crisp acidity on the palate but a nice, plump texture, the balance is quite nice. White cherries, watermelon, peach, lemon, a nice fruit salad topped in white pepper, sea salt, honeysuckle, a slight tobacco note. Really balanced and fresh and fun. (87 points)
2017 Whitewater Hill Riesling - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $14
Light yellow color. Lots of peach nectar, apricot, candied orange peel, along with honeycomb, lychee and floral perfume. Medium-bodied, moderate acidity, there’s significant sweetness in here, but it’s not too heavy. Pineapple, peach and mango nectar, with sweet floral perfume, orange blossoms, sugar cane and candied ginger. It finishes clean and with notes of minerals and mountain stream, and the sweetness is balanced quite nicely. (86 points)
2016 Bookcliff Vineyards Tempranillo - Colorado
SRP: $19
Light purple color. Super spicy on the nose with tart, dark currants, spiced cranberry sauce, along with leather, clove, black pepper and musk. Medium-bodied with bright acidity, the tannins are structured and provide serious grip, but the acidity helps balance them out. Black cherries and tart currants mix with a host of pepper, tar, coffee, clove, and there’s this sandy, rocky, earthy undertone that is lovely. Could use at least a few years to unwind, but the concentration and quality is there. (87 points)
2015 Bookcliff Vineyards Cabernet Franc Reserve - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Concentrated aromas of black cherries and currants, with coffee and cedar, notes of tar, tobacco, sage and creosote. Fresh acidity frames the wine nicely, but the tannins provide serious structure. Black cherries and blackberry fruit, dark, deep and tart, mixed with earth, graphite. Oak, cedar, coffee notes are strong but the fruit is concentrated enough that it all works, and I love the black pepper and sage notes on the finish. Could do well with three-to-five years of age. (88 points)
2016 Infinite Monkey Theorem Cabernet Franc - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $24
Light purple color. Really interesting nose, like tart black cherries and wild raspberries with lots of rosebush, clove, tobacco, mesquite and scorched earth. Medium-bodied on the palate, the tannins give structure but show smooth edges, and the acidity rally pops, from start to finish. Vibrant red and black cherry fruit, wild raspberry, spicy cranberry sauce, with notes of clove, cinnamon, and lots of rose hips and leathery stuff. Complex and interesting, this is a really zippy, different kind of Cab Franc, worth checking out! I’d love to see how it ages over the next few years. (90 points)
2016 Red Fox Cellars Teroldego - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $40
Bright purple color. Whoa, what a burst of sweet plums, cherries, with roasted coffee and candied pecan notes. Fresh acidity, really zippy here, on a medium-bodied frame with velvety mouthfeel and a nice line between silky and tangy. Tart cranberry meets sweet plums and back cherries, the fruit is juicy but really vibrant. Notes of pepper, herbal tea, oak, coffee, it’s woven together very nicely. Ready to drink now, really versatile stuff. (88 points)
2016 Colterris Petit Verdot - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $24
Bold purple color. Nose shows dark and concentrated elements of black cherries and currants, topped in pepper, leather, magic marker and charcoal. Grippy, concentrated and dark on the palate but the acidity is surprisingly vibrant. A core of tart dark currant and plum fruit blends well with smoky charcoal, mesquite-grilled beef, pen ink, dark chocolate. This could use some years in the cellar to unwind, but a well-done and interesting take on this variety. (87 points)
2016 Colterris Merlot Riverside Vineyard - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $45
Deep ruby color. Aromas of tangy black cherries, juicy plums, raspberry jam, with roasted chestnut and violets. Big and full on the palate (15.2% alcohol) with velvety tannins and vibrant acidity, so it all fits together quite nicely. Juicy raspberries, black cherry jam, yummy and Zinfandel-esque fruit but it’s fresh, too. Nots of violets, roasted herbs, chestnut, coffee and cedar. Drinking really well right now. Highly delicious. (88 points)
2016 Monkshood Cellars Syrah White Water Vineyard - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $44
Bright, almost neon purple color. Nice aromatic combination of tart blueberries, black currants, sweet plums, along with smoky menthol, tar, graphite, mint. On the palate, bright acidity rips in, supported by strong tannins, this is a young wine but has a lot of tanginess and depth. Tart currants, black cherries, some pomegranate, loaded with elements of smashed rocks, minerals, charcoal, charred herbs, cocoa, a lot going on here. A bit austere in its youth perhaps, but I think this will be singing in about five years. Impressive stuff. (89 points)
2016 Snowy Peaks Winery Eleve - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $24
Light purple color. Whoa, what a spicy aromatic display: black pepper, beef bouillon cubes, leather, tobacco and mint along with tangy black cherries and plums. Grippy tannins meet bright acidity on a medium-bodied frame. Juicy and tangy red and black cherries, the acidity really rips through. Lots of spicy, beefy, pepper, earthy, leathery notes that I’m really enjoying, with violets and coffee, too. I’d love to revisit this in 4-5 years. A spicy and exciting blend of Syrah, Petite Sirah and Mourvedre from vineyards some 7,500 feet above sea level. (89 points)
1999 Colorado Cellars Colorado Port - Colorado
SRP: $40/500ml
Medium ruby color. Lovely aromas of spiced cranberry jelly, candied cherries, berry compote, with roses, clove and black tea. Full and sweet, smooth tannins, but it sports some moderating acidity. The tawny-style elements of gingerbread, candied ginger and apricot marmalade mix well with darker elements of dates, candied cherries. There’s an earthy, clove, spiced coffee note that is woven in really well. I am quite impressed with this Colorado dessert wine! (88 points)
2017 Carlson Vineyards Gewürztraminer Laughing Cat - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $15
Medium yellow color. Aromas of sweet peaches, guava nectar, honey, spiced white tea, some herbal tea notes. Plump texture, the sweetness isn’t too heavy, there’s moderating acidity that keeps it refreshing. Flavors of sweet apricot jam, guava, peaches, mixed with honey, spiced white tea and nettle. I’m really impressed with how well this shows at the price point. (85 points)
<85 points
2016 Carlson Vineyards Plum Wine - Colorado
SRP: $15
Bright strawberry colored. Nose shows fresh pears, peaches, glazed with honey, topped in some rose hips and herbal tea. The palate is where things go off course (for me). Plump, medium acidity, sweet and sugary with flavors of apricot skin and peach pits. Strawberries and Southern sweet tea elements are quite strong. The sweetness and flavors aren’t lining up for me but I could see this being popular with some.
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
I recently tasted through the winners of the 2018 Colorado Governor’s Cup. Like Virginia’s renowned Governor’s Cup, the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board kicked off a similar program in 2011. In 2018, 46 Colorado wineries submitted 344 wines to the competition. These wines were judged by a panel of somms, chefs, writers, and wine experts, including Warren Winiarski. They chose a baker’s dozen worth of winning wines.
Colorado is a huge state, but it doesn’t crack the top 10 states in terms of wine production. The state’s winegrowing regions boast plenty of sunshine, low humidity, diverse soils, offering up plenty of opportunity to grow quality wine grapes. And, fun fact: the state’s two American Viticultural Areas (Grand Valley and West Elks, located in the western part of the state) are the highest elevation appellations in the country.
More and more, it seems to me, Colorado winemakers are not afraid to experiment and strike their own path, like Infinite Monkey Theorem’s quirky blends and branding aesthetic, and Red Fox’s Teroldego in this report. This is the most impressive batch of Colorado wines I’ve tasted yet. Now, to get out there for some tourism.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2017 Colterris Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé “Coral” - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $22
Pale salmon color. Nose shows white peaches, white cherries, white lemon verbena, sea salt, white pepper and cut flower stems. Crisp acidity on the palate but a nice, plump texture, the balance is quite nice. White cherries, watermelon, peach, lemon, a nice fruit salad topped in white pepper, sea salt, honeysuckle, a slight tobacco note. Really balanced and fresh and fun. (87 points)
2017 Whitewater Hill Riesling - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $14
Light yellow color. Lots of peach nectar, apricot, candied orange peel, along with honeycomb, lychee and floral perfume. Medium-bodied, moderate acidity, there’s significant sweetness in here, but it’s not too heavy. Pineapple, peach and mango nectar, with sweet floral perfume, orange blossoms, sugar cane and candied ginger. It finishes clean and with notes of minerals and mountain stream, and the sweetness is balanced quite nicely. (86 points)
2016 Bookcliff Vineyards Tempranillo - Colorado
SRP: $19
Light purple color. Super spicy on the nose with tart, dark currants, spiced cranberry sauce, along with leather, clove, black pepper and musk. Medium-bodied with bright acidity, the tannins are structured and provide serious grip, but the acidity helps balance them out. Black cherries and tart currants mix with a host of pepper, tar, coffee, clove, and there’s this sandy, rocky, earthy undertone that is lovely. Could use at least a few years to unwind, but the concentration and quality is there. (87 points)
2015 Bookcliff Vineyards Cabernet Franc Reserve - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Concentrated aromas of black cherries and currants, with coffee and cedar, notes of tar, tobacco, sage and creosote. Fresh acidity frames the wine nicely, but the tannins provide serious structure. Black cherries and blackberry fruit, dark, deep and tart, mixed with earth, graphite. Oak, cedar, coffee notes are strong but the fruit is concentrated enough that it all works, and I love the black pepper and sage notes on the finish. Could do well with three-to-five years of age. (88 points)
2016 Infinite Monkey Theorem Cabernet Franc - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $24
Light purple color. Really interesting nose, like tart black cherries and wild raspberries with lots of rosebush, clove, tobacco, mesquite and scorched earth. Medium-bodied on the palate, the tannins give structure but show smooth edges, and the acidity rally pops, from start to finish. Vibrant red and black cherry fruit, wild raspberry, spicy cranberry sauce, with notes of clove, cinnamon, and lots of rose hips and leathery stuff. Complex and interesting, this is a really zippy, different kind of Cab Franc, worth checking out! I’d love to see how it ages over the next few years. (90 points)
2016 Red Fox Cellars Teroldego - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $40
Bright purple color. Whoa, what a burst of sweet plums, cherries, with roasted coffee and candied pecan notes. Fresh acidity, really zippy here, on a medium-bodied frame with velvety mouthfeel and a nice line between silky and tangy. Tart cranberry meets sweet plums and back cherries, the fruit is juicy but really vibrant. Notes of pepper, herbal tea, oak, coffee, it’s woven together very nicely. Ready to drink now, really versatile stuff. (88 points)
2016 Colterris Petit Verdot - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $24
Bold purple color. Nose shows dark and concentrated elements of black cherries and currants, topped in pepper, leather, magic marker and charcoal. Grippy, concentrated and dark on the palate but the acidity is surprisingly vibrant. A core of tart dark currant and plum fruit blends well with smoky charcoal, mesquite-grilled beef, pen ink, dark chocolate. This could use some years in the cellar to unwind, but a well-done and interesting take on this variety. (87 points)
2016 Colterris Merlot Riverside Vineyard - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $45
Deep ruby color. Aromas of tangy black cherries, juicy plums, raspberry jam, with roasted chestnut and violets. Big and full on the palate (15.2% alcohol) with velvety tannins and vibrant acidity, so it all fits together quite nicely. Juicy raspberries, black cherry jam, yummy and Zinfandel-esque fruit but it’s fresh, too. Nots of violets, roasted herbs, chestnut, coffee and cedar. Drinking really well right now. Highly delicious. (88 points)
2016 Monkshood Cellars Syrah White Water Vineyard - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $44
Bright, almost neon purple color. Nice aromatic combination of tart blueberries, black currants, sweet plums, along with smoky menthol, tar, graphite, mint. On the palate, bright acidity rips in, supported by strong tannins, this is a young wine but has a lot of tanginess and depth. Tart currants, black cherries, some pomegranate, loaded with elements of smashed rocks, minerals, charcoal, charred herbs, cocoa, a lot going on here. A bit austere in its youth perhaps, but I think this will be singing in about five years. Impressive stuff. (89 points)
2016 Snowy Peaks Winery Eleve - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $24
Light purple color. Whoa, what a spicy aromatic display: black pepper, beef bouillon cubes, leather, tobacco and mint along with tangy black cherries and plums. Grippy tannins meet bright acidity on a medium-bodied frame. Juicy and tangy red and black cherries, the acidity really rips through. Lots of spicy, beefy, pepper, earthy, leathery notes that I’m really enjoying, with violets and coffee, too. I’d love to revisit this in 4-5 years. A spicy and exciting blend of Syrah, Petite Sirah and Mourvedre from vineyards some 7,500 feet above sea level. (89 points)
1999 Colorado Cellars Colorado Port - Colorado
SRP: $40/500ml
Medium ruby color. Lovely aromas of spiced cranberry jelly, candied cherries, berry compote, with roses, clove and black tea. Full and sweet, smooth tannins, but it sports some moderating acidity. The tawny-style elements of gingerbread, candied ginger and apricot marmalade mix well with darker elements of dates, candied cherries. There’s an earthy, clove, spiced coffee note that is woven in really well. I am quite impressed with this Colorado dessert wine! (88 points)
2017 Carlson Vineyards Gewürztraminer Laughing Cat - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $15
Medium yellow color. Aromas of sweet peaches, guava nectar, honey, spiced white tea, some herbal tea notes. Plump texture, the sweetness isn’t too heavy, there’s moderating acidity that keeps it refreshing. Flavors of sweet apricot jam, guava, peaches, mixed with honey, spiced white tea and nettle. I’m really impressed with how well this shows at the price point. (85 points)
<85 points
2016 Carlson Vineyards Plum Wine - Colorado
SRP: $15
Bright strawberry colored. Nose shows fresh pears, peaches, glazed with honey, topped in some rose hips and herbal tea. The palate is where things go off course (for me). Plump, medium acidity, sweet and sugary with flavors of apricot skin and peach pits. Strawberries and Southern sweet tea elements are quite strong. The sweetness and flavors aren’t lining up for me but I could see this being popular with some.
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
Monday, March 5, 2018
Wine Reviews: Colorado's Governor Cup Award Winners
I’ve been tasting the winners of Colorado’s Governor’s Cup Awards for two years now, and here’s my third installment.
Like Virginia’s renowned Governor’s Cup, the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board kicked off a similar program in 2011. For the 2017 competition, 46 wineries submitted 325 wines, and the top 12, which I reviewed, are featured prominently as part of a “Governor’s Cup Case.”
Colorado doesn’t crack the top 10 states in terms of production. According to the Colorado Wine trade group, Colorado wineries released about 178,000 cases in 2017. But with abundant sunshine (more than 300 days per year) and low humidity, the raw ingredients are there. And there seems to be quite a bit of enthusiasm and experimentation going on in Colorado.
A few of the “wines” in this case aren’t grape wines. A cider, a mead and a fruit wine are included. Also, one of the wines comes from Sonoma County fruit, which struck me as odd, and perhaps counterproductive, for a competition designed to focus on Colorado’s wine industry. That said, there were some delicious and impressive wines in the mix.
These were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2013 Infinite Monkey Theorem Sparkling Albariño
SRP: $55
Golden color. Lovely aromas of apricots, lemons, chalk dust, dandelion, honeysuckle, sea sat. Crisp and bright on the palate with faint but pleasant bubbles. Kumquat, tangerine and apricot fruit, juicy and delicious, mixed well with yellow flowers, chalk dust, smashed seashells, honeycomb. Wow, the complexity and deliciousness are impressive. This is a gutsy wine (considering the name, the fact it is a sparkling Albarino under crown cap, and costs $55), but it somehow pulls it off. (90 points)
2016 Bookcliff Vineyards Riesling
SRP: $14
Medium gold color. Aromas of peach, guava, lime, notes of sea salt and honeysuckle. Creamy texture on the palate, medium acidity balances out some sweetness. Peaches, yellow plum and yellow raisins. Lots of yellow flowers, with some honey, cinnamon sticks. Plush, rich, not too sweet. (86 points)
2015 Carlson Vineyards Lemberger Tyrannosaurus Red
SRP: $17
Pale ruby color. Aromas of sweet raspberries, strawberry jam, roses, some black pepper and rhubarb. Medium+ bodied with medium acidity and fleshy tannins. Spicy wild raspberry, strawberry, black cherry, the fruit mixes with notes of cola, rhubarb and black tea. Impressive take on this grape, food-friendly, fun (if not super deep or complex), well-made. (86 points)
2015 The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey Merlot Reserve
SRP: $28
Rich ruby color. Aromas of sweet plums, red and black currants, blueberries, some spicy tobacco and pepper and violets. Fresh acidity frames the palate, and the tannins and light and dusty, velvety red and black plums and cherries. Some leathery, charcoal, spiced tea, some roses and red licorice. Stays vibrant, bright, easy to drink, but shows some delicious and complex elements. (87 points)
2015 Guy Drew Vineyards Syrah
SRP: $18
Bright purple color. Tangy black fruit (blackberries and plums) along with ginger, cinnamon, black pepper and campfire smoke. Full-bodied on the palate with grippy, structured tannins and moderating acidity to set the stage for sweet but tart black currant and plum fruit. Lots of dark chocolate, espresso, gravelly-loam notes and some vanilla, cedar. Impressive, delicious stuff from Montezuma County. (87 points)
2014 Creekside Cellars Franc Colorado's Cabernet
SRP: $45
Deep ruby color. Aromas of red and black cherries and plums, along with black pepper, mushroom, cedar shavings, coffee grounds. Full-bodied, structured well but silky, with fresh acidity. Tart black cherries, blackberries, crunchy plum skins. Coffee, cedar and roasted chestnut mix with black olive, charred herbs and cracked pepper. A bit overt with oak influences perhaps, but still very well done. (88 points)
2015 Decadent Saint Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
SRP: $40
Medium purple color. Aromas of smoky and sweet black cherries, black currant, saucy and rich fruit with notes of mocha, eucalyptus, cigar lounge and vanilla. Surprisingly fresh acidity on a full-bodied frame with silky tannins. Fresh but bold with tart black currant and blueberry, the fruit is laced with graphite, sweet pipe tobacco, eucalyptus and cedar shavings. Rich but fresh finish. The wine is produced in Colorado, but the grapes are sourced from Sonoma County. (88 points)
N.V. Meadery of the Rockies Strawberry Honey Wine
SRP: $15
Deep copper color. Smells of strawberries, candied apple, white flowers, sweet perfume. Full and rich on the palate but moderate acidity, the sweetness is integrated well. Tangy cherry and strawberries, honeyed richness, candle wax notes, floral perfume. Plump but balanced quite nicely. (85 points)
2017 Colorado Cider Company Grasshop'ah
SRP: $11/4-pack cans
Shows a zippy, fresh appeal with plenty of ripe apple, apricot and peach along with notes of spiced herbs, white pepper, floral perfume. Zippy, fresh and fun. A lightly hopped cider. (87 points)
<85 points
N.V. Colorado Cellars Raspberry
SRP: $15
Light cherry color. Smells like raspberry jam, maraschino cherries, red hot candies and rose tea. Juicy and sweet but some refreshing acidity keeps it from being too heavy. Candied fruit (raspberry jam, cherry cough drops, strawberry cheesecake topping) flavors dominate, with hints of roses and bitter tea. Grape wine with raspberry juice added.
2016 Whitewater Hill Sweetheart Red
SRP: $14
Bright ruby color. Aromas of sweet cherry preserves, prunes, currant paste, sweet coffee. Rich and sweet but some lively (surprisingly so) acidity. Red currant and strawberry jams mix with sweet cola, coffee, toasted coconut. Simple, fun, sweet red dessert wine.
2013 Two Rivers Port Château Deux Fleuves
SRP: $14/375ml
Deep ruby color. Aromas of cranberry sauce, fig paste, with cedar, sweet coffee and vanilla. Sweet and chewy on the palate with medium tannins and tangy acidity. Red currant jam, sour cherries, along with flavors of red licorice and ginger snap. Interesting flavors but the sweetness and sour aspects seem a bit off balance. 19.6% alcohol.
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
Like Virginia’s renowned Governor’s Cup, the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board kicked off a similar program in 2011. For the 2017 competition, 46 wineries submitted 325 wines, and the top 12, which I reviewed, are featured prominently as part of a “Governor’s Cup Case.”
Colorado doesn’t crack the top 10 states in terms of production. According to the Colorado Wine trade group, Colorado wineries released about 178,000 cases in 2017. But with abundant sunshine (more than 300 days per year) and low humidity, the raw ingredients are there. And there seems to be quite a bit of enthusiasm and experimentation going on in Colorado.
A few of the “wines” in this case aren’t grape wines. A cider, a mead and a fruit wine are included. Also, one of the wines comes from Sonoma County fruit, which struck me as odd, and perhaps counterproductive, for a competition designed to focus on Colorado’s wine industry. That said, there were some delicious and impressive wines in the mix.
These were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2013 Infinite Monkey Theorem Sparkling Albariño
SRP: $55
Golden color. Lovely aromas of apricots, lemons, chalk dust, dandelion, honeysuckle, sea sat. Crisp and bright on the palate with faint but pleasant bubbles. Kumquat, tangerine and apricot fruit, juicy and delicious, mixed well with yellow flowers, chalk dust, smashed seashells, honeycomb. Wow, the complexity and deliciousness are impressive. This is a gutsy wine (considering the name, the fact it is a sparkling Albarino under crown cap, and costs $55), but it somehow pulls it off. (90 points)
2016 Bookcliff Vineyards Riesling
SRP: $14
Medium gold color. Aromas of peach, guava, lime, notes of sea salt and honeysuckle. Creamy texture on the palate, medium acidity balances out some sweetness. Peaches, yellow plum and yellow raisins. Lots of yellow flowers, with some honey, cinnamon sticks. Plush, rich, not too sweet. (86 points)
2015 Carlson Vineyards Lemberger Tyrannosaurus Red
SRP: $17
Pale ruby color. Aromas of sweet raspberries, strawberry jam, roses, some black pepper and rhubarb. Medium+ bodied with medium acidity and fleshy tannins. Spicy wild raspberry, strawberry, black cherry, the fruit mixes with notes of cola, rhubarb and black tea. Impressive take on this grape, food-friendly, fun (if not super deep or complex), well-made. (86 points)
2015 The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey Merlot Reserve
SRP: $28
Rich ruby color. Aromas of sweet plums, red and black currants, blueberries, some spicy tobacco and pepper and violets. Fresh acidity frames the palate, and the tannins and light and dusty, velvety red and black plums and cherries. Some leathery, charcoal, spiced tea, some roses and red licorice. Stays vibrant, bright, easy to drink, but shows some delicious and complex elements. (87 points)
2015 Guy Drew Vineyards Syrah
SRP: $18
Bright purple color. Tangy black fruit (blackberries and plums) along with ginger, cinnamon, black pepper and campfire smoke. Full-bodied on the palate with grippy, structured tannins and moderating acidity to set the stage for sweet but tart black currant and plum fruit. Lots of dark chocolate, espresso, gravelly-loam notes and some vanilla, cedar. Impressive, delicious stuff from Montezuma County. (87 points)
2014 Creekside Cellars Franc Colorado's Cabernet
SRP: $45
Deep ruby color. Aromas of red and black cherries and plums, along with black pepper, mushroom, cedar shavings, coffee grounds. Full-bodied, structured well but silky, with fresh acidity. Tart black cherries, blackberries, crunchy plum skins. Coffee, cedar and roasted chestnut mix with black olive, charred herbs and cracked pepper. A bit overt with oak influences perhaps, but still very well done. (88 points)
2015 Decadent Saint Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
SRP: $40
Medium purple color. Aromas of smoky and sweet black cherries, black currant, saucy and rich fruit with notes of mocha, eucalyptus, cigar lounge and vanilla. Surprisingly fresh acidity on a full-bodied frame with silky tannins. Fresh but bold with tart black currant and blueberry, the fruit is laced with graphite, sweet pipe tobacco, eucalyptus and cedar shavings. Rich but fresh finish. The wine is produced in Colorado, but the grapes are sourced from Sonoma County. (88 points)
N.V. Meadery of the Rockies Strawberry Honey Wine
SRP: $15
Deep copper color. Smells of strawberries, candied apple, white flowers, sweet perfume. Full and rich on the palate but moderate acidity, the sweetness is integrated well. Tangy cherry and strawberries, honeyed richness, candle wax notes, floral perfume. Plump but balanced quite nicely. (85 points)
2017 Colorado Cider Company Grasshop'ah
SRP: $11/4-pack cans
Shows a zippy, fresh appeal with plenty of ripe apple, apricot and peach along with notes of spiced herbs, white pepper, floral perfume. Zippy, fresh and fun. A lightly hopped cider. (87 points)
<85 points
N.V. Colorado Cellars Raspberry
SRP: $15
Light cherry color. Smells like raspberry jam, maraschino cherries, red hot candies and rose tea. Juicy and sweet but some refreshing acidity keeps it from being too heavy. Candied fruit (raspberry jam, cherry cough drops, strawberry cheesecake topping) flavors dominate, with hints of roses and bitter tea. Grape wine with raspberry juice added.
2016 Whitewater Hill Sweetheart Red
SRP: $14
Bright ruby color. Aromas of sweet cherry preserves, prunes, currant paste, sweet coffee. Rich and sweet but some lively (surprisingly so) acidity. Red currant and strawberry jams mix with sweet cola, coffee, toasted coconut. Simple, fun, sweet red dessert wine.
2013 Two Rivers Port Château Deux Fleuves
SRP: $14/375ml
Deep ruby color. Aromas of cranberry sauce, fig paste, with cedar, sweet coffee and vanilla. Sweet and chewy on the palate with medium tannins and tangy acidity. Red currant jam, sour cherries, along with flavors of red licorice and ginger snap. Interesting flavors but the sweetness and sour aspects seem a bit off balance. 19.6% alcohol.
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
Monday, December 26, 2016
Rocky Mountain Wine: Surprisingly Good Vino from Colorado
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
Back in March, I reviewed a case of wines from Colorado, the winners of the state’s 2015 Governor’s Cup Awards. While I found some fun bottles, some wines felt out of whack, unbalanced, weird. I recently tasted through this year’s top 12 Colorado wines, and found much more to get excited about.
Colorado, perhaps better known for brews than vino, has been growing in recent years. In 2009, Colorado wineries sold about 100,000 cases, but that number had jumped to almost 150,000 by 2015, according to Colorado Wine.
Back in March, I reviewed a case of wines from Colorado, the winners of the state’s 2015 Governor’s Cup Awards. While I found some fun bottles, some wines felt out of whack, unbalanced, weird. I recently tasted through this year’s top 12 Colorado wines, and found much more to get excited about.
Colorado, perhaps better known for brews than vino, has been growing in recent years. In 2009, Colorado wineries sold about 100,000 cases, but that number had jumped to almost 150,000 by 2015, according to Colorado Wine.
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The Colorado River flows through the state's Grand Valley American Viticultural Area. Credit: Colorado Wine Industry Development Board |
With abundant sunshine (more than 300 days per year) and low humidity, wine grapes can thrive. But high elevation vineyards (from 4,000 feet to a staggering 7,000 feet) and Colorado’s climate can make for some tough conditions. “Low yields and large year-to-year yield fluctuations are characteristic of Colorado grape production, even in the Grand Valley AVA, due to cold temperature injury,” according to a 2016 report from the Viticulture and Enology programs at the Colorado Wine Industry.
My palate tends toward Colorado reds from Bordeaux varieties, although Syrah can do well, too. What I like about a lot of these wines is the combination of generally moderate alcohol content, structured tannins, and a tangy zip of acidity that keeps the wine fresh. And the prices for some of these wines make exploring them easier. That is, of course, if you can find any, as the wines are made in small quantities and not available in many markets.
However, if you’re looking for outdoor adventure and gorgeous scenery to pair with wine-tasting, perhaps a trip to Colorado should include some wine tourism. I know that’s my plan.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2015 Plum Creek Riesling Dry - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $16
Medium yellow color. Aromas of juicy peaches, white flowers, papaya and honey. Tangy and pithy on the palate with crisp acidity and flavors of lime peel, white peach and apricot. Quinine, flower stems and sharp dandelion notes but a nice honeyed presence despite the dryness. Actually quite nice but an interesting flavor profile for Riesling. (85 points)
2015 Red Fox Cellars Tempranillo Long Day Rosé - Colorado
SRP: $19
Pale salmon color. Bright strawberries, watermelon rind and floral perfume on the nose. Bold texture for 13.5% alcohol, almost waxy, but fresh acidity keeps it lip-smacking. Flavors of watermelon rind, white cherries, strawberries, juicy fruit but a fresh appeal. Yellow and white flowers mix with hints of white pepper and green tea. I’m impressed! (86 points)
2013 Kingman Estates Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $19
Medium purple color. Aromas of juicy black cherries and dark plums meet smoky charcoal, eucalyptus, mint and bell pepper. Medium bodied, impressive grippy tannic structured, medium/fresh acidity. Black cherries and currants, dark and smoky, with notes of cola, coffee, loamy soil, tobacco. Quite woody (a fistful of oak shavings in the teeth), but, that aside, the wine is quite nice. I’m interested to see what three-to-five years of cellaring does to this wine. (87 points)
2013 Snowy Peaks Winery Petit Verdot - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $27
Bright purple color. An aromatic blast of spicy black pepper, bay leaf and pipe tobacco on top of tart red and black currants. On the palate, bright acidity plays with serious tannic grip and nicely balanced fruit of the tart red and black plum variety. Lots of tar, anise, graphite, smoke, spicy oak. Despite its solid structure, this stays fresh, although the wine will definitely improve in the cellar. Very nice! (88 points)
2013 Bookcliff Vineyards Cabernet Franc Reserve - Colorado, Grand Valley
My palate tends toward Colorado reds from Bordeaux varieties, although Syrah can do well, too. What I like about a lot of these wines is the combination of generally moderate alcohol content, structured tannins, and a tangy zip of acidity that keeps the wine fresh. And the prices for some of these wines make exploring them easier. That is, of course, if you can find any, as the wines are made in small quantities and not available in many markets.
However, if you’re looking for outdoor adventure and gorgeous scenery to pair with wine-tasting, perhaps a trip to Colorado should include some wine tourism. I know that’s my plan.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2015 Plum Creek Riesling Dry - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $16
Medium yellow color. Aromas of juicy peaches, white flowers, papaya and honey. Tangy and pithy on the palate with crisp acidity and flavors of lime peel, white peach and apricot. Quinine, flower stems and sharp dandelion notes but a nice honeyed presence despite the dryness. Actually quite nice but an interesting flavor profile for Riesling. (85 points)
2015 Red Fox Cellars Tempranillo Long Day Rosé - Colorado
SRP: $19
Pale salmon color. Bright strawberries, watermelon rind and floral perfume on the nose. Bold texture for 13.5% alcohol, almost waxy, but fresh acidity keeps it lip-smacking. Flavors of watermelon rind, white cherries, strawberries, juicy fruit but a fresh appeal. Yellow and white flowers mix with hints of white pepper and green tea. I’m impressed! (86 points)
2013 Kingman Estates Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $19
Medium purple color. Aromas of juicy black cherries and dark plums meet smoky charcoal, eucalyptus, mint and bell pepper. Medium bodied, impressive grippy tannic structured, medium/fresh acidity. Black cherries and currants, dark and smoky, with notes of cola, coffee, loamy soil, tobacco. Quite woody (a fistful of oak shavings in the teeth), but, that aside, the wine is quite nice. I’m interested to see what three-to-five years of cellaring does to this wine. (87 points)
2013 Snowy Peaks Winery Petit Verdot - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $27
Bright purple color. An aromatic blast of spicy black pepper, bay leaf and pipe tobacco on top of tart red and black currants. On the palate, bright acidity plays with serious tannic grip and nicely balanced fruit of the tart red and black plum variety. Lots of tar, anise, graphite, smoke, spicy oak. Despite its solid structure, this stays fresh, although the wine will definitely improve in the cellar. Very nice! (88 points)
2013 Bookcliff Vineyards Cabernet Franc Reserve - Colorado, Grand Valley
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I don't have lots of experience with Colorado wines, but Bookcliff has been a standout in the past two years of the Colorado Governor's Cup. |
Deep ruby colored. Smoky herbs and pepper on the nose with chewing tobacco on top of tart black cherries. Medium-bodied with bright acidity that balances nicely with structured tannins, combining in a pure and silky mouthfeel. Black cherries and red/black currants, ripe but crunchy, the fruit is laced with tobacco, loamy soil, rosemary and cedar chips. Coffee and oak linger with fresh acidity on the finish. Impressive in its balance, and this could age nicely for at least a few years. (88 points)
2014 Bookcliff Vineyards Syrah - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $19
Light purple/dark ruby color. Aromas of tart black cherries, red currants, herbs (sage/bayleaf) with black pepper sauce. Full-bodied with sturdy tannic grip, vibrant acidity, I like the balance with the tart black cherry, red currant and dark plum skin. Air and time open up all sorts of nuances like pepper, charred meat, charcoal, tobacco and graphite. Concentrated but showing such freshness and vibrancy for a Syrah with 14.5%. I’m seriously impressed with the quality to price ration of this Colorado Syrah. (88 points)
2013 Bookcliff Vineyards Ensemble - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $19
Deep ruby color. Aromas of red and black currant, dark coffee, violets, cola, some green herb scents. Full-bodied with grippy tannins and black and red currant fruit. Notes of dark coffee, pencil shavings, anise and cinnamon spice add some complexity. A bit dense, this could use a few years of sleep. A bit heavy on the oak, but a nicely made Bordeaux blend of 52% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Malbec. (87 points)
2014 Whitewater Hill Shiraz - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $18
Light purple color. Aromas of juicy black cherries, blackberry and blueberry jam, along with pine needles, black pepper and flower pots. A silky. medium-bodied presence on the palate with fine tannins and crisp acidity. Tart black cherries and blackberries are loaded with soot, pine, charcoal and black pepper. Tangy and a bit sharp but shows some tasty elements. Grown at 4,800 foot elevation. (86 points)
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Despite labels reminiscent of '90s Arizona Diamondback jerseys, these Cabs are legit! |
2014 Whitewater Hill Cabernet Sauvignon - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $19
Medium purple color. Smoky aromas of charcoal and tobacco on top of tart blueberries, cedar and pine. Medium-bodied with moderate-structured tannins, fresh acidity, nice balance. Tart blackberry and blueberry play will tobacco, bell pepper, scorched earth, a good dose of wood but the wine stays juicy and fresh and easy to drink (12.5% alcohol). A lot more personality and verve than so many sub-$20 California Cabernets. (87 points)
2014 Whitewater Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $29
A bit deeper purple color, with dark, rich aromas of blueberries and black cherries, along with tobacco, vanilla, earth and cedar. Pure and smooth on the palate with fresh acidity, sturdy tannins, plush but tart blueberries and black cherries. Lots of tobacco, roasted chestnut, wet soil and vanilla, all of it woven in together quite nicely. Rich in flavor and structure but so fresh and bright. Impressive stuff that should improve well in the cellar for at least five years. (88 points)
1991 Colorado Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon - Colorado
SRP: $74
Medium ruby/light brick color. Aromas of red currant and strawberry jam, some serious volatile acidity, too, in the form of sun-dried tomato and wood varnish, along with some sweet tobacco and wet leaves. On the palate, the tannins still provide some light structure, a smooth mouthfeel, the volatile acidity adds a whole lot of sharpness. Dried red currant and red apple peel flavors topped with chewing tobacco, wet leaves and peat bog – some sweet coffee notes underneath. An interesting experience, but a bit of an odd one. (Not Rated)
2015 Fox Fire Farms Traminette - Colorado
SRP: $24
Light yellow color. Smells like canned peaches, white grape jelly, spiced tea and Christmas tree. Juicy texture on the palate with fresh acidity, the sweetness is a bit high, making the wine a bit clunky. Flavors of white grape jelly, tropical fruit juice, spiced tea and sugar cane. It is rare that I find a Traminette I want to drink, and this one is not it. (78 points)
Tuesday, November 8, 2016
On Election Day, Raise a Glass of American Wine
Election Day is finally upon us. And we have survived it — so far.
First, go fulfill your civil, personal, moral (spiritual, if you’re into that) obligation: Get off your ass and VOTE. After that, I think we all need to uncork some wine.
“This election season has been long, brutal, and exhausting,” says everyone, from every spot on the American political spectrum. 2016 has been sopping with negativity, divisiveness and vitriol. But we have a reason to hold our heads up high, Americans. We are living in the midst of the American wine renaissance. Seriously. That is a thing.
Blue states, red states, swing states, all of them are home to beautiful vineyards and winemakers seeking to represent their sliver of land by making wine from it. Wherever you live in this massive, diverse, amazing country of ours, you’re not too far from a winery.
“Oh,” you say, “I don’t live in the Bay Area. There’s no good wine around here.” Yeah… I’m going to have to go ahead and… disagree with you. Most of the American populace is located within a weekend trip away from some beautiful wine country and some delicious local wines.
Long Island? Packed with exciting wineries. Ditto for the Finger Lakes region of New York. I live in DC, and in less than two hours I can hit the road and visit one of dozens of amazing wineries in Virginia and Maryland. Texas’ Hill Country is home to a bunch of exciting, spicy wine. Arizona? Don’t get me started about the kick-ass wines coming out of Cochise County and the Verde Valley. Washington State is a gold mine. Oregon produces some of the best Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays in the world. And determined winemakers are bottling delicious wine in Missouri, Michigan, Colorado, New Mexico, New Jersey, Ohio, and on and on.
I’m rambling. Point is: America is a goddamn goldmine of wines. Get out there and explore.
Earlier this year, a fellow booze writer Dan Dunn published a hilarious book called “American Wino: Reds, Whites & One Man’s Blues.” In it, he recounts the true story of failed love, devastation from the death of his brother, and his means of escape: a cross-country trek across our great American viticultural landscape.
Basically, he drives, visits wineries, talks with locals, and drinks. I reviewed the book here, but here’s the boiled down version: “A lot of wine writing can be either stuffy to the point of suffocation or uninspired to the point of meaninglessness. Dan’s writing avoids both of these pitfalls. He pretty much gets loaded, waits for hilarious shit to happen, and then writes it down.” Dunn finds good wine and good times all over this country, in states you may never have considered visiting. His cross-country trip is quite a feat, but there are wineries in your home state worth checking out.
Drive out to a vineyard. Walk around with a loved one or the family or your dog. Pop into the tasting room and order a flight. Taste through everything they have, and keep an open mind. Ask about where the grapes come from, why this particular place works for the type of grapes they are growing, and how they make the wine. Listen to winemakers — as a group of professionals they are among the coolest people you’ll ever meet. Wine snobbery exists, of course, but not in the vineyard, and not in the barrel room. It’s the perfect place to learn about wine and, by tasting, to learn what you like.
To give you a drop-in-the-bucket sampling of what I’m talking about, I’ve included a few wine recommendations from all over this awesome country of ours.
USA! USA!
The Federalist “Dueling Pistols” (California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley)
To pair with this insane election cycle, a new red blend has hit markets around the U.S., The Federalist. It’s a blend of Zinfandel and Syrah from Dry Creek Valley, a haven of old school (and old vine) California Zinfandel. The label makes me think of our federalist voting structure — which can make things very frustrating on a local level, but which provides tremendously effective protection against anyone who would ever attempt to “rig” an election through “voter fraud.” (That’s not a real thing, by the way.) This wine, on the other hand, is a mouthful of fresh cherries and raspberries with some smoky oak and vanilla. A blend of 50/50 Syrah and Zinfandel, and better than a lot of other red blends in this price range ($17).
Stinson Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc (Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello)
Pale straw color. Smells of tart green apples and limes mixed with juicy pears and an impressive amount of chalk, white pepper and sliced jalapenos. Rocking acidity on the palate, which balances nicely with the moderately waxy mouthfeel. This is a delicious but vibrant Sauv Blanc with limes, apples and peaches. The fruit is topped with mountain stream, honeysuckle, sea salt, chalk and sliced jalapenos. This Sauv Blanc has a little bit of everything rolled into its character. Crisp, refreshing finish. A consistently exciting and dynamic Virginia Sauvignon Blanc, vintage in, vintage out. About $25.
Old Westminster Winery Albariño Petillant Naturel Home Vineyard (Maryland, Central Piedmont, Linganore)
This is one of the coolest wines I’ve come across all year. It’s a rare (and wonderfully bizarre) style of sparkling wine made from Maryland grapes (the variety hails from northern Spain). It smells of lemons, limes and musky perfume. On the palate, this is so pleasantly vibrant with subtle bubbles, bright acidity and a light but somewhat waxy texture. Gushes with green apple, apricot and melon, but there’s a deep floral presence in this wine. Nerd level 11! But the deliciousness factor is right there, too. This is Maryland’s first wine of this style, and it comes from the state’s most exciting producer.
Lieb Family Cellars Bridge Lane (New York, Long Island, North Fork)
Smells of black cherries, tart raspberries, and some spicy-floral elements. Refreshing acidity, smooth and easy to drink with a tart appeal of cherries and plums. Mostly Merlot with Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot, this is an impressive value. It comes in bottles, but is also available in box and keg, which is pretty cool. Yes, good box wine from Long Island is a thing. You can find this one for less than $10.
Sawtooth Malbec Trout Trilogy (Idaho, Snake River Valley)
Full-bodied (14.6% alcohol), silky tannins but plenty of structure, the refreshing acid really keeps this wine alive and bright. Chewy blackberry and plum fruit with charcoal, graphite and tar accents, definitely showing its oak signature with chestnut, mocha and dark chocolate shavings, but there’s a lovely balance and freshness to this wine, elegance even. Impressed.
First, go fulfill your civil, personal, moral (spiritual, if you’re into that) obligation: Get off your ass and VOTE. After that, I think we all need to uncork some wine.
“This election season has been long, brutal, and exhausting,” says everyone, from every spot on the American political spectrum. 2016 has been sopping with negativity, divisiveness and vitriol. But we have a reason to hold our heads up high, Americans. We are living in the midst of the American wine renaissance. Seriously. That is a thing.
Blue states, red states, swing states, all of them are home to beautiful vineyards and winemakers seeking to represent their sliver of land by making wine from it. Wherever you live in this massive, diverse, amazing country of ours, you’re not too far from a winery.
“Oh,” you say, “I don’t live in the Bay Area. There’s no good wine around here.” Yeah… I’m going to have to go ahead and… disagree with you. Most of the American populace is located within a weekend trip away from some beautiful wine country and some delicious local wines.
![]() |
From sea to shining sea, America is packed with absurdly beautiful wine country. Get out there and check it out! |
I’m rambling. Point is: America is a goddamn goldmine of wines. Get out there and explore.
Earlier this year, a fellow booze writer Dan Dunn published a hilarious book called “American Wino: Reds, Whites & One Man’s Blues.” In it, he recounts the true story of failed love, devastation from the death of his brother, and his means of escape: a cross-country trek across our great American viticultural landscape.
Basically, he drives, visits wineries, talks with locals, and drinks. I reviewed the book here, but here’s the boiled down version: “A lot of wine writing can be either stuffy to the point of suffocation or uninspired to the point of meaninglessness. Dan’s writing avoids both of these pitfalls. He pretty much gets loaded, waits for hilarious shit to happen, and then writes it down.” Dunn finds good wine and good times all over this country, in states you may never have considered visiting. His cross-country trip is quite a feat, but there are wineries in your home state worth checking out.
Drive out to a vineyard. Walk around with a loved one or the family or your dog. Pop into the tasting room and order a flight. Taste through everything they have, and keep an open mind. Ask about where the grapes come from, why this particular place works for the type of grapes they are growing, and how they make the wine. Listen to winemakers — as a group of professionals they are among the coolest people you’ll ever meet. Wine snobbery exists, of course, but not in the vineyard, and not in the barrel room. It’s the perfect place to learn about wine and, by tasting, to learn what you like.
To give you a drop-in-the-bucket sampling of what I’m talking about, I’ve included a few wine recommendations from all over this awesome country of ours.
USA! USA!
The Federalist “Dueling Pistols” (California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley)
To pair with this insane election cycle, a new red blend has hit markets around the U.S., The Federalist. It’s a blend of Zinfandel and Syrah from Dry Creek Valley, a haven of old school (and old vine) California Zinfandel. The label makes me think of our federalist voting structure — which can make things very frustrating on a local level, but which provides tremendously effective protection against anyone who would ever attempt to “rig” an election through “voter fraud.” (That’s not a real thing, by the way.) This wine, on the other hand, is a mouthful of fresh cherries and raspberries with some smoky oak and vanilla. A blend of 50/50 Syrah and Zinfandel, and better than a lot of other red blends in this price range ($17).
Stinson Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc (Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello)
Pale straw color. Smells of tart green apples and limes mixed with juicy pears and an impressive amount of chalk, white pepper and sliced jalapenos. Rocking acidity on the palate, which balances nicely with the moderately waxy mouthfeel. This is a delicious but vibrant Sauv Blanc with limes, apples and peaches. The fruit is topped with mountain stream, honeysuckle, sea salt, chalk and sliced jalapenos. This Sauv Blanc has a little bit of everything rolled into its character. Crisp, refreshing finish. A consistently exciting and dynamic Virginia Sauvignon Blanc, vintage in, vintage out. About $25.
Old Westminster Winery Albariño Petillant Naturel Home Vineyard (Maryland, Central Piedmont, Linganore)
This is one of the coolest wines I’ve come across all year. It’s a rare (and wonderfully bizarre) style of sparkling wine made from Maryland grapes (the variety hails from northern Spain). It smells of lemons, limes and musky perfume. On the palate, this is so pleasantly vibrant with subtle bubbles, bright acidity and a light but somewhat waxy texture. Gushes with green apple, apricot and melon, but there’s a deep floral presence in this wine. Nerd level 11! But the deliciousness factor is right there, too. This is Maryland’s first wine of this style, and it comes from the state’s most exciting producer.
Lieb Family Cellars Bridge Lane (New York, Long Island, North Fork)
Smells of black cherries, tart raspberries, and some spicy-floral elements. Refreshing acidity, smooth and easy to drink with a tart appeal of cherries and plums. Mostly Merlot with Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot, this is an impressive value. It comes in bottles, but is also available in box and keg, which is pretty cool. Yes, good box wine from Long Island is a thing. You can find this one for less than $10.
Sawtooth Malbec Trout Trilogy (Idaho, Snake River Valley)
Full-bodied (14.6% alcohol), silky tannins but plenty of structure, the refreshing acid really keeps this wine alive and bright. Chewy blackberry and plum fruit with charcoal, graphite and tar accents, definitely showing its oak signature with chestnut, mocha and dark chocolate shavings, but there’s a lovely balance and freshness to this wine, elegance even. Impressed.
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Arizona has some gorgeous wine country |
Arizona Stronghold Vineyard Chardonnay Dala (Arizona, Cochise County)
An infusion of white peach, honey and white flowers. Rich and creamy but bright and tangy at the same time. White peach, yellow apple and apricot mix with notes of hazelnut and honeycomb. Very nice, especially for $10-$15! Arizona wine country is remote, unique and shockingly beautiful.
Hawk Haven Talon (New Jersey, Outer Coastal Plain)
Impressive structure, refreshing acid. A cherry-driven wine (juicy but the fruit isn’t too sweet). Smoky cedar notes, with earth and candied nuts. A 50-50 blend of Merlot and Syrah from estate grapes. Pretty cool they were able to pull off Syrah, as it isn't easy to grow in coastal Jersey. If you’re traveling in South Jersey, check this place out! Not cheap (about $30), but this Jersey boy will call out anyone who says good wine can’t come from Jersey.
N.V. Gruet Winery Brut (New Mexico)
Such a solid sparkler for the price (about $12-15 depending on your market). Melon and lemon themes mix with crisp acid, a bit of creaminess and some nutty notes. A delicious wine that’s both inexpensive and wildly popular at parties. Did I mention this is a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay-based sparkling wine (made via the same method as Champagne) is from friggin’ New Mexico? Do a Google image search for New Mexico vineyards and tell me that doesn’t look like a stunning place to visit.
An infusion of white peach, honey and white flowers. Rich and creamy but bright and tangy at the same time. White peach, yellow apple and apricot mix with notes of hazelnut and honeycomb. Very nice, especially for $10-$15! Arizona wine country is remote, unique and shockingly beautiful.
Hawk Haven Talon (New Jersey, Outer Coastal Plain)
Impressive structure, refreshing acid. A cherry-driven wine (juicy but the fruit isn’t too sweet). Smoky cedar notes, with earth and candied nuts. A 50-50 blend of Merlot and Syrah from estate grapes. Pretty cool they were able to pull off Syrah, as it isn't easy to grow in coastal Jersey. If you’re traveling in South Jersey, check this place out! Not cheap (about $30), but this Jersey boy will call out anyone who says good wine can’t come from Jersey.
N.V. Gruet Winery Brut (New Mexico)
Such a solid sparkler for the price (about $12-15 depending on your market). Melon and lemon themes mix with crisp acid, a bit of creaminess and some nutty notes. A delicious wine that’s both inexpensive and wildly popular at parties. Did I mention this is a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay-based sparkling wine (made via the same method as Champagne) is from friggin’ New Mexico? Do a Google image search for New Mexico vineyards and tell me that doesn’t look like a stunning place to visit.
Sunday, March 20, 2016
A Mixed Bag of Colorado Wine
Best known for a dizzying array of craft breweries, Colorado
also produces more and more wine. And if a recent tasting is any indication,
some of these wines are quite good.
Wine is likely not the first (or second, or fifth)
thing you think of when you hear Colorado, but winemakers in this state are
hoping to change that. Colorado definitely has some quality ingredients for
winegrowing: 300+ days of sun per year, low humidity, cool mountain breezes,
high elevation sites (with vineyards planted between 4,000 and 7,000 feet).
More than 125 wineries crush grapes from more than
1,000 acres of grapes. And the state's wine industry is growing. In 2009,
Colorado wineries sold about 100,000 cases. By 2015, that number had jumped to
almost 150,000 cases, according to Colorado Wine. Riesling is
the state's top wine grape, accounting for almost a quarter of Colorado wine.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Merlot round out the top five.
Most vineyard views are quite impressive, but this seems excessively beautiful. Credit: Colorado Wine. |
But despite the size of the state, wine production
is relatively small. Colorado's wine acreage is a tiny drop in a big bucket
when you consider that California totaled more than 600,000 acres in 2014, according to the USDA. Colorado doesn't scratch
the top ten states in terms of wine production. For example, Pennsylvania, the
10th largest wine-producing state, churns out about 800,000 cases of wine per
year, according to Wine Vines Analytics.
Still, I love the idea of exploring wine from new
regions and different states. And considering the incredible natural beauty and
tourist attractions the state has to offer, I'd love to taste some local vino
while taking in the mountain views.
Like Virginia's renowned Governor's Cup, the Colorado
Wine Industry Development Board kicked off a similar program in 2011. The
Colorado Governor's Cup Wine Competition saw 241 entries
from 37 wineries in 2015. The Governor's Case, which includes the top 12 wines,
is a snapshot of the cream of the crop from that competition.
To be honest, I found some of the wines a bit
strange. It took a lot of swirling, spitting and head-scratching to figure some
of them out. Some wines were too heavily oaked (I found a similar trend in tasting through a case of Idaho wines last year). But the adventurous palate has a whole lot to explore in Colorado. And
if your palate is anything like mine, you're bound to find some wines that
get you excited.
These wines were received as trade samples and
tasted sighted.
2012 Guy Drew Vineyards Sweet
Riesling
- Colorado
SRP: $16
Slight spritz in the glass with a light golden
color. Smells like sliced white peaches and canned peaches, along with
honeysuckle, but I also get this slightly strange goat cheese note (seriously,
it’s like a goat farm). On the palate this wine tastes like sweet tarts, lime
peel and canned peaches, along with notes of honeysuckle and quinine. A hint of
that funkiness from the nose, but not too much. Sweet but the acidity is
bright. Overall, it’s not bad, but it’s a bit odd. (78 points)
2014 Bookcliff Vineyards Viognier - Colorado
SRP: $16
Medium yellow color. Jumps out of the glass with aromas
of white peaches, juicy cantaloupe, kiwi, topped with floral perfume and honey.
On the palate, this is full-bodied and waxy, the acid fails to keep the wine
fresh in the face of gobs of tropical fruit (pineapple, papaya, juicy white
peaches). Notes of yellow flowers, honeycomb, a real sense of creamy lees and
nougat as well. Fun flavors, very tasty, but it’s a bit hot and unbalanced. (83
points)
2012 Bookcliff Vineyards Cabernet
Franc Reserve
- Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $25
Medium ruby colored. Smells of spicy red cherries
and currants, topped with a significant dose of pepper, celery seed, leather
and roasted coffee. Full-bodied, silky-smooth tannins, some moderate acid holds
it up. Juicy red and black cherries on the palate, the fruit is plenty ripe but
shows some crunchy freshness. The fruit’s laced with black pepper, sage,
leather and clove. Medium-length finish with a kiss of vanilla and oak.
Well-done. (86 points)
2013 Turquoise Mesa Winery Syrah - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $35
Vibrant ruby color. Interesting aromas of red apple
peel, tart black currant fruit, mixed in with wet leaves, soy sauce and green
peppercorn notes, a note that reminds me of a sour red ale. Medium-bodied,
silky tannins, moderate acid, this is a bright wine with tart but approachable
fruit (black cherry, tart blueberry, red apple peel, a unique blend of fruit
elements), but also some roasted chestnut, green pepper, black tea and an
herbal cough drop note. A tart and spicy wine that requires an adventurous
palate. A bit strange, a unique approach, but I find it fun. (83 points)
2012 Boulder Creek Winery Syrah - Colorado
SRP: $25
Vibrant purple color. Smells of bright plums,
blackberries, violets and some light roast coffee. Full-bodied but marked by
refreshing acidity and moderately fleshy tannin structure. A tart black cherry
and currant jam fruit signature, underlined by cola, coffee, black pepper and
loamy earth. Rich but stays fresh, this is put together quite well. (87 points)
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The label looks like a strip club ad, but the Syrah in the bottle was so well done and delicious. |
2013 Anemoi Syrah Lips - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $35
Deep ruby color. Smells of rich blackberries and
blueberries, with lots of smoke, pepper and a spicy meat note that reminds me
of really good chorizo (seriously). Full-bodied, such a chewy texture, with
some fleshy tannins and light acid that helps hold it together. The black
cherry, blackberry and blueberry fruit is rich and mouth-filling but it’s not
too extracted or roasted. Flavors of black pepper glaze, campfire smoke, rich
loam, graphite, vanilla, roasted coffee, some grilled herbs and violet notes come
out with air. Big and burly but shows some serious complexity, depth, and it’s
actually quite balanced and finishes fresh. My favorite wine of the tasting —
and a wine that really got me excited about Syrah in Colorado. (90 points)
2013 Turquoise Mesa Winery Colorado
Crimson - Colorado
SRP: $28
Vibrant ruby color. More candied berry and jammy
aromas than the Syrah, still some underlying green and black pepper, violets,
herbal liqueur and menthol. Medium-bodied, some dusty tannic structured, medium
acid. Juicy and tart black and red fruits, this wine has a significant amount
of violets, potting soil, black pepper and campfire elements. Tart and a bit weird,
but an interesting blend of 53% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre and 17% Viognier. (81
points)
2012 Creekside Cellars Cabernet
Sauvignon
- Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $35
Medium purple color. Wonderful aromas here, I’m
actually quite surprised at all the nuance I get: black and red currant, black
cherries, sweet coffee, violets, pipe tobacco and cola. Bold structure with seriously
firm tannic grip, medium acid helps keep it fresh, this is a dense wine but
opens up a bit with air (and will much more so with time in the cellar). The
fruit is compact but tart as well (black currant and cherries), and slathered
in coffee, sweet vanilla coffee and toasty oak, perhaps a bit too much of the
latter, but it’s got quite a lot going for it. Freshness and nuances of spice
and tobacco on the finish. So, yeah, I dig this. I’d love to retaste in two or
three years to see what else emerges. Nice but so damn tannic. (87 points)
2012 Creekside Cellars Petit Verdot - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $30
Rich purple color. A bit closed down at first, but
it opens up and shows some tart red currant and blueberry, along with campfire
smoke, violets and black licorice candy. Medium-to-full-bodied with a grippy
tannic structure, but smooth around the edges, some moderately tart acid. I get
black cherries, currants and blueberries, the fruit is juicy and ripe but
doused with heavy vanilla and roasted coffee. Some underlying floral and earthy
tones try to peek out. Finishes with some anise and oak. 13.8% alcohol. (84
points)
2013 Canyon Wind Petit Verdot - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $35
Light purple color. Rich and saucy on the nose, like
blueberry pie and black currant jam, also some coffee, loamy soil, vanilla and
cola. Full-bodied and full-throttled, the tannins are quite strong here, the
acid a bit low. But I really like the quality of the fruit (blueberries, black
currants, blackberry), which is rich but not overdone. Significant coffee, dark
chocolate, vanilla and toasted oak, but also some leafy, peppery, loamy notes.
Structured very well for the cellar. I’m really impressed by this wine and
would love to retaste it in four or five years. 15% alcohol. (88 points)
2014 Whitewater
Hill Sweetheart Red - Colorado,
Grand Valley
SRP: $13
Light purple color. Smells like currant, raspberry and strawberry jams, very confectionary with sweet purple candies and some cough drop notes. Light tannins, medium-low acidity, moderate sweetness, the balance isn’t great but it’s not terrible. Flavors of raspberry and strawberry jams along with caramel apple and some cough drop flavors. I wasn’t expecting to enjoy this, but it’s better than I thought. Still not something I’d like to drink. (80 points)
Light purple color. Smells like currant, raspberry and strawberry jams, very confectionary with sweet purple candies and some cough drop notes. Light tannins, medium-low acidity, moderate sweetness, the balance isn’t great but it’s not terrible. Flavors of raspberry and strawberry jams along with caramel apple and some cough drop flavors. I wasn’t expecting to enjoy this, but it’s better than I thought. Still not something I’d like to drink. (80 points)
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