Inexpensive but Expressive Burgundies from Domaine Collotte

Phillipe Collotte. Credit: Weygandt Wines

I love Burgundian wines, but I’m not a wealthy man. I’ve never tasted a bottle of Romanée-Conti and, considering I’m not burying thousands of dollars away for this purpose, likely never will.

And while a lot of Burgundy’s greatest wines will remain out of my reach, there are still plenty of wines from Burgundy that are of high quality, but don’t cost a fortune. Some, like the wines of Domaine Collotte, can be found for $20-$35.

Phillipe Collotte sources grapes from various parcels in the Côte de Nuits, most of which come from old vines, ranging from 30 years to 60-years-old. With low yield vineyards, indigenous yeast fermentation, the wines show concentration, expressiveness and deliciousness, and they still cost about $30. 

Peter Weygandt has been importing these wines since 2006, and I’ve had the chance to taste a lot of them over the years. Without exception, I’ve found them to be solid examples of inexpensive Burgundy. I recently tasted through some new releases from Collotte at Weygandt Wines, and, again, I found a lot of wine for the money. 

My notes below…

2016 Domaine Collotte Bourgogne Blanc - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
$23
Super salty and bright with a zesty, lemon/green apple appeal. Refreshing and bright. (87 points)

2015 Domaine Collotte Fixin Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Fixin
$37
Ooh, this is a rich and plump Chardonnay with yellow apples, bruised pear, honey, almond. Some underlying mineral and floral notes too. Round and delicious. (89 points) 

2017 Domaine Collotte Marsannay Rosé - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay Rosé
$20
Bright and spicy on the nose with raspberries and wild cherries, along with nettle and wild green herbs. Spicy and brisk on the palate with tart strawberries and pleasant white pepper and herbal tea notes. Vibrant and delicious. (88 points)

2016 Domaine Collotte Marsannay Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay
$25
Nose shows bright red cherries and some tobacco. Brisk acidity, dusty tannins, juicy red cherries with notes of earth and leather. Delicious now but could improve for a few years easily. (88 points)

2015 Domaine Collotte Marsannay Les Champsalomon - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay
$32
A lot more depth than the VV. Richer cherries and red plums, earth and anise. Smooth and velvety with juicy cherries and complex savory and earth elements. Very nice. (90 points) 

2014 Domaine Collotte Fixin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Fixin
$25
This is complex and savory on the nose, lots of earth and leather and pepper on top of mulled cherries. Smooth but structured, bright acid, cherries and plums topped in leather, mushroom, campfire smoke and some pepper. Drinking very nicely right now, probably not much aging potential here, but very nice for the price. (89 points)

Recommended Late-Summer Sippers <$25

Earlier this summer, I posted some recommendations for summer sipping wines from my personal collection. Well, since it's Labor Day and summer is winding down, here's one last bunch of wine recommendations.
All of these wines came from my personal collection.

In the summer, I love seeking out inexpensive but exciting wines that I can pop without thinking, pour for friends and family at gatherings. I look for wines that are delicious but also capable of tossing a cup into the pan of veggies I'm sautéing without worry.

All of these wines fit the bill.  

2016 Matthiasson Rosé - USA, California, Napa Valley
$25
Pale copper color. Aromas of nettle, dandelion, crushed shells, wild strawberry, raspberry leaf, watermelon – I love this stuff. Crisp and light but packed with flavors of strawberry, white cherry, raspberry, mixed well with chalk dust, white pepper, saline, crushed shells, mint, some arugula and bell pepper notes, but they don’t dominate. Long, zesty, spicy finish. A perennial favorite of mine, and 2016 comes through. (91 points) 

2017 Cape Original Chenin Blanc - South Africa, Western Cape

$8
Pale lemon color. Aromas of white and yellow flowers, dandelion, chalk dust and white tea on top of lemon and orange. Crisp and zesty, super brisk but not light on flavor. Lemons, white peaches, mixes with chalk, saline, honey and oyster shell notes. Light and refreshing but so delicious, and this is a stellar deal at $8. South Africa delivers in that category yet again. (87 points) 

2016 Cephalonia Cooperative Robola of Cephalonia - Greece
$12
Pale straw color. Super zesty aromatic white wine with baby’s breath, dandelion, lilies, lemons, limes and oranges. Zesty and bright on the palate but surprising, pleasant creaminess. Lemon, nectarine, some white peach, juicy and fresh and mixed with floral perfume, cucumber water and sea salt notes. A lovely, fresh, crowd-pleasing summer white wine. (87 points) 

2015 Louis Latour Montagny 1er Cru La Grande Roche - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Montagny 1er Cru
$18
Medium yellow color. A juicy yellow apple mixes with baked pear, some honey, cinnamon, some white flowers, lovely stuff. Pretty texture, a pleasantly creamy/waxy element, with fresh acidity. Plump apple and pear fruit is delicious, and mixed nicely with nougat, cinnamon and honeybutter along with white flowers and a slight flinty/chalky note. So much  Chard for less than $20. (88 points) 

2014 Béres Furmint Tokaji Száraz-Dry - Hungary, Tokaji 

$18
Light gold color. Aromas of lemons, white peaches, white flowers, impressive chalky, limestone, quinine and mineral notes. Brisk acidity on the palate but plump fruit (lemon, white peach, apricot), but there’s a lovely salinity and chalk dustiness to it, and I love it. Some honeyed tea, mint, quinine and nettle notes. Lovely stuff, very pretty with simple sautéed veggies and penne. (89 points) 

2014 Philippe Jouan Bourgogne Passetoutgrains - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains
$20
Loved this stuff on a warm summer evening. Deep rose petal color. Nose shows roses, rhubarb, sour cherries, wild raspberry. Dusty, light tannins, crisp acidity, vibrant and fresh, with chilled raspberries, red apples and bright cherries. Notes of rose petal, rhubarb, spiced tea, tobacco. Lovely stuff, slightly chilled, on a hot day with some grilled veggies. Pinot Noir and Gamay, this is a serious contender for hot weather red of the year. (88 points)

Pinot Noir from Alsace, Burgundy, Italy & California

It’s time for a lot of Pinot Noir. Well, it’s always time for Pinot, but I recently tasted through a bunch of them from all over the world, most of which are not very expensive.

This report features a few leaner, zestier versions from Alsace, most of which I think over-deliver for the price. Speaking of good prices, we’ve also got some value-driven Pinots from lesser heralded villages in Burgundy. While not exactly thrilling, some of these $20-$25 bottles are seriously good for the money. Lastly, I’ve included a Pinot from Italy and a few from California that I received after I’d already conducted my California Pinot single-blind tastings for the fall.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2014 Domaine Ostertag Pinot Noir “E” - France, Alsace
SRP: $26
Juicy cherry color. Aromas of bright strawberries, red apple peel, rhubarb, white pepper and spiced tea. On the palate, I get brisk acidity with silky tannins, a bit lean in body but so fresh and tangy. Red apple, tart strawberries and red plums combine with complex elements of rose petal, sage, white pepper, tar and spiced black tea. Lovely now but could improve over the next few years. This isn’t a chewy, in-your-face kind of Pinot, but a lean and zesty one. If you like that style, this is really good stuff. (89 points)

2014 J.B. Adam Pinot Noir Alsace Les Natures - France, Alsace
SRP: $25
Light ruby color. Aromas of tart strawberries, white cherries, lots of rhubarb, some roses, black tea, hints of green olive. Medium-bodied with brisk, tart acidity and some dusty tannins for moderate structure. So brisk and bright in its red apple, cranberry sauce and wild strawberry fruit, backed up by white pepper, soy, green olive, the savory spice aspects get more and more complex with air. Deliciously zesty but this has a lot going on. Fermented in century-old casks and aged a year in bottle before release. (88 points)

2008 Hugel et Fils Pinot Noir Jubilee - France, Alsace

Winemaker Etienne Hugel died
earlier this year, way too soon,
but his great wines live on.

SRP: $42
Rich ruby color. Gorgeous nose of raspberry leaf tea, bright strawberries, red currants, topped with nettle, sage, some wet forest floor and mushroom notes as well. Vibrant acidity on the palate, dusty tannins, lots of complexity in this wine and it needs air to open up properly. I get tart red apple and wild raspberry fruit mixed wonderfully with notes of rose petals, savory spices and mushroom. A delicious wine but it’s so elegant and contemplative, too. Still lots of life ahead. From the limestone soils of the Pflostig vineyard. (91 points)

2014 Domaine Barmes-Buecher Pinot Noir Reserve - France, Alsace
SRP: $30
Vibrant rose color Aromas of lush red cherry and raspberry jam, very fruit-forward but lots of roses and sweet spice notes, too. Light/medium-boded with smooth tannins, but enough to frame the wine structurally, bright acidity. Juicy red cherries and raspberries taste so fresh and silky, and I get complex notes of rose petal, clay soil, pepper, bay leaf, and more savory notes come out with time. Plush but tangy, a more voluptuous wine (compared to the others) but it stays precise. Drinking wonderfully but I’d love to revisit in three or four years. (90 points)

N.V. Parigot & Richard Crémant de Bourgogn Rosé - France, Burgundy, Crémant de Bourgogne
SRP : $24
A salmon/copper color. Bright and floral aromas with chalk and toasted bread on top of raspberries, white cherries and rose hips. Fresh acidity, a bit lean, but really fresh and tart. White cherries, tart strawberries and watermelon rind with notes of chalk and cut flowers. (87 points)

2015 Maison Chanzy Rully En Rosey Rouge - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Rully
SRP: $22
Rich ruby color. Smells of juicy raspberries, cranberry sauce, lots of smoke and some pepper and pickling spices. Very smooth on the palate despite some grippy tannins, and the acid keeps it fresh. Darker, juicy black cherries and plum fruit, backed up by violets, dark soil, soy and some coffee. Plush but nicely structured, this is accessible now but really opens up after a few hours, and I’d love to taste it again in two to four years. Another great value, and it really shows some of the high quality but inexpensive options out there in the 2015 vintage. (88 points)

2015 Louis Latour Santenay - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Santenay

Really good Burgundy for $20!

SRP: $20
Medium ruby color. Smells of juicy cherries and red plums with some dusty earth and violet notes. On the palate this shows supple but structured tannins and fresh acidity, a nice balance. Red cherries and plum fruit is juicy and ripe and mixed with notes of dusty earth, violets, sage and some sweet cola. Open and quite pretty but should improve for a few years. Seriously good value right here! (88 points)

2014 Gabriel Billard Bourgogne Cuvée Milliane Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne
SRP : $20
Bright ruby color. Smells of juicy cherries and sweet raspberries. More fruit-forward aromas but the fruit is still tart and lively and I get notes of roses and sweet cola. The acidity is quite tart and the tannins are light. This Pinot shows tangy red apples and wild strawberries along with notes of soil, leather and light roast coffee. Perhaps a bit thin, but it’s a fresh and tangy wine for early consumption. (85 points)

2014 Michel Magnien Fixin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Fixin
SRP: $28
Deep ruby color. Aromas of juicy red cherries and tart raspberries with some tobacco, rose hips and cedar. Medium-bodied, some moderate grip to the tannins, medium acidity. Flavors of darker cherries and raspberry jam, the fruit is touched with tobacco, earth, coffee, some wood and smoky campfire notes. Good stuff but could use some air or a year or two to open up. (87 points)

2014 Benoit Cantin Irancy - France, Burgundy, Côtes d'Auxerre, Irancy
SRP: $24
Medium ruby color. Very bright and tart on the nose with cherries, strawberries, roses and wildflowers. Fresh and zesty on the palate, medium-bodied, light-to-medium tannins, a fine dusty and tart feel to the wine. Tart strawberry and red apple peel blend with light earth tones. Ready to go right out of the bottle, good for those who like a brisker style. (86 points)

2015 Peter Zemmer Pinot Noir Rollhütt - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $18
Vibrant raspberry color. Smells like tangy strawberries, pomegranate and some green pepper, tobacco, raspberry leaf tea and a kick of rhubarb — very interesting aromas. Medium-bodied with light tannins and fresh acidity. Sour cherries mix with sweet strawberries and notes of tobacco, rhubarb and dill. Delicious, fresh, accessible Süditrol Pinot for a very reasonable price. (88 points)

2014 Frank Family Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $35
Pale ruby color. Aromatically rocking with lots of roses, nettle and sage on top of crisp, cool raspberries and cherries — lots of complex aromas pop with air. Full-bodied and velvety with smooth tannin and moderate acidity. Juicy strawberries and raspberry jam play off of cola, rhubarb, rose petal, white pepper, hints of caramel coffee. Rich and voluptuous (and some cellar potential) but it’s also vibrant and absolutely delicious. Aged 10 months in 1/3 new French oak. (89 points)

2014 Equavinity Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $48
Light ruby color. Aromas of juicy raspberry and wild strawberry, crisp red apple peel, topped with rose hips, rhubarb, hints of mint and oregano. Full-bodied but smooth and silky with fine tannins and crisp acidity, makes it refreshing to sip despite richness of texture. Bright notes of red flowers, white pepper, lemon zinger tea, mint and eucalyptus. Lots going on here in terms of complexity and richness, but it’s so fresh and inviting, too. Aged 14 months in 25% new French oak. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Marsannay's Domaine Collottee Offers Serious Value Burgundies

It's not easy finding good Burgundy for cheap.

But some of the less-heralded villages offer solid deals. Marsannay, the northernmost village Burgundy's Cote-de-Nuits, is home to plenty of delicious Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. While not as exciting as the wines of Gevrey-Chambertin or Morey St.-Denis, these wines are also a whole lot cheaper.

Winemaker Philippe Collotte. Credit: Weygandt Metzler Imports.

As is always the case (even more so in Burgundy), producer and vintage are key. I've been tasting Domaine Collotte's Marsannay's for years now, and this is one hell of a reliable producer. (They also make some delightful wines from the Fixin and Chambolle-Musigny appellations.) Bright but creamy and nutty Chardonnays, crisp but juicy Pinot Noirs, these wines almost always deliver for the price. The 2014 vintage seems pretty solid, although like most Burgundy vintages, winegrowers didn't have it easy.

A recent tasting of Domaine Collotte's 2014 Marsannays proved to me yet again that these wines are a good bet in the $25-$35 range.

I tasted these wines sighted at my favorite wine shop in DC, Weygandt Wines, which imports them.

2014 Domaine Collotte Marsannay Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay
$25

Rich tropical aromas with a nice creamy texture, but bright acidity keeps it balanced. Peaches, honey, minerals and cinnamon notes. Quite pleasant for the price. (87 points)

2014 Domaine Collotte Marsannay Champs Salomon Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay
$30

Lots of aromatic complexity. A richly textured wine, but it shows vibrant acidity. Rich but zesty with complex flavors of pears, spiced apple, almond and honeyed tea. From a single-vineyard of 40-year-old vines in marl soils. A whole lot of white Burgundy goodness for $30. (89 points)

2014 Domaine Collotte Marsannay Le Clos de Jeu - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay
$33

Lovely spice, roses, herbs and cherries on the nose. Bright and crisp palate with dusty acidity. Tart red cherries and currants sing nicely alongside the spice and herbal notes. (88 points)

2014 Domaine Collotte Marsannay Champs Salomon - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay
$33

Darker core of fruit on the nose and palate (darker currants and cherries), but still lots of bright floral tones. Earthy, mineral-driven, spicy, floral, the tannins are quite structured and the acidity is refreshing, the balance and strength of different elements mean this has a lot to show with years in the cellar. (90 points)

2014 Domaine Collotte Fixin Les Crais de Chene - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Fixin
$35

Structured quite nicely but still plush with the dark, saucy fruit. Earth, floral, spicy, concentration is nice on the finish. I’d like to retaste in a few years. From 30- to 40-year-old vines in clay and limestone soil. (88 points)

Structured Red Burgundies from Domaine Henri Richard

In January, I spent two days tasting through organic wines at Millésime Bio, a trade show held in Montpellier, France. SudVinBio, an association of organic Languedoc-Roussillon winemakers, who sponsored the fair and my trip, gathered some 700 organic winemakers from 12 countries for this event. I mingled through the booths, stopping to taste and talk with winemakers. I spent most of my time focused on Burgundy, the Loire Valley and Southern Rhone winemakers, and I found more than a few new (to me) producers to get excited about.

One such producer is Domaine Henri Richard. This biodynamic producer is located in Gevrey-Chambertin and makes a variety of elegant and structured red Burgundies. Big shock: the Grand Crus were the best, but the Gevrey-Chambertins are something to behold as well. My notes on the wines I tasted…

2011 Domaine Henri Richard Coteaux Bourguignons Corvée de L'Église - Burgundy, Coteaux Bourguignons
Aromas of sour cherries, white pepper and pickles. Tart, tangy and fresh, with currant and beef broth aspects. Fun, uncomplicated stuff. (85 points)

2011 Domaine Henri Richard Marsannay En Larrey - Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay
Aromas of roses, perfume and cherry blossom. Solid grip on the palate with tangy acid. Fresh currants play with flowers and pickling spice. Elegant. (87 points)

2010 Domaine Henri Richard Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corvées - Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Aromas of sour cherries, dried herbs, white pepper. Serious grip on the palate, so much tang from the acid. Black cherries and red currants mix with a ton of flowers, some herbs and savory spices. Young, beautiful, much to unpack in the cellar. (90 points)

2011 Domaine Henri Richard Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corvées - Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Currants, herbs and roses on the nose. Rich and open, much more accessible than the 2010. Red plums, pickling spices, subtle earth and herbal undertones. Very pretty and elegant, seems ready for business but has some structure for aging. Long finish. (89 points)

2010 Domaine Henri Richard Mazoyères-Chambertin - Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru
Complex aromas of rhubarb, strawberries, dried flowers. Elegant texture with fine tannins and tart acid. Flavors of red currant, earth, flowers, smashed bricks. So long, refreshing and elegant. Beautiful stuff that will age well, but showing some finesse for its young age. (91 points)

2012 Domaine Henri Richard Charmes-Chambertin - Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Deep and complex aromas: raspberries, red apple peel, spice, pepper, potpourri and smashed rocks. Grippy as hell on the palate, but fresh acid tries to keep it in check. The strawberry and currant fruit is tart but rich at the same time. Love the violets, loam and charcoal flavors. Great mineral streak throughout. Excellent length with notes of sage on the finish. A beauty, one for the ages. (92 points)

Tasty 2012 Burgundies from Domaine Michel Magnien

Me, left, and Frederic Magnien at the 2014 Millesime Bio Fair.

Last week, I spent two days tasting through organic wines at Millésime Bio, a trade show held in Montpellier, France. SudVinBio, an association of organic Languedoc-Roussillon winemakers, who sponsored the fair and my trip, gathered more than 700 organic winemakers from 12 countries for this event. I mingled through the booths, stopping to taste and talk with winemakers. I spent most of my time focused on Burgundy, the Loire Valley and Southern Rhone winemakers, and I found more than a few new (to me) producers that I enjoyed. In the coming days and weeks, I’ll have a series of posts about some of these winemakers.

During the fair, I spent some time talking with winemaker Frédéric Magnien, who makes wine under his father’s label Domaine Michel Magnien. Michel owns 19 hectares of vineyards, including parts of the Grand Crus Clos de la Roche and Clos St. Denis, and vineyards in the villages of Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St.-Denis and Chambolle-Musigny. Michel used to sell off his entire crop to the Morey-St.-Denis cooperative, but his son convinced him to start the domaine and bottle the wine themselves. A wise choice, indeed.

Like most Burgundian winemakers, Frédéric’s a genuine guy who loves what he does. He was pouring some barrel samples of his 2012s, a vintage he’s excited about. He said he plans to rack and bottle the wines in the coming months but, being a biodynamic producer, he works with the cycles of the moon. Frédéric uses about 15% whole cluster fermentation in his wines and about 10% new oak. I found the wines to be rich and plush, packed with berry and earth flavors. The acid in the 2012s is consistently refreshing, providing a lip-smacking quality to the wines, even in the face of some solid tannins. Open and forward, with rich red fruit and cola, but the oak is subtle and never overpowers the purity of the fruit flavors.

My notes on Frédéric’s wines…

2012 Michel Magnien Marsannay Blanc
Very floral on the nose, almost pungent, white flowers and honeysuckle and grapefruit. Crisp on the palate with some nice creaminess. Green apple, white flowers and a sage note. Interesting stuff. (87 points)

2012 Michel Magnien Bourgogne
Sweet cherries and spice on the nose, very open and fresh. Juicy red fruit on the palate, with fine tannins and medium+ acid. Fleshy, pure, easy-drinking and fun. (86 points)

2012 Michel Magnien Morey St. Denis
On the nose: berries, spice, flowers. So juicy on the palate, with ripe tannins and crisp acid. Flavors of berry puree, lavender and baking spices. Long, ripe finish. A pure and slightly flamboyant wine, but so well made. (88 points)

2012 Michel Magnien Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées Vieilles Vignes
Aromas of sweet cherries, baking spices, red flowers and earth. Rich and bold on the palate, but great grip. Sweet berries mix with cola, earth and a spiced root beer note. Earthy and herbal on the finish. Very pretty stuff. I’d like to try it again after it’s been bottled and had a year to relax. (89 points)

2012 Michel Magnien Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers
Aromas of sweet cherry and raspberry, along with roses, cola and pepper. Rich on the palate, with pure berries, earth, cola and baking spices. A bit “new world” perhaps? But tangy as well and full of life. (89 points)

2012 Michel Magnien Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Chaffots  
More spice on the nose, with earth, roses and berries. Crisp, clean and fresh. But grippy too, with iron and plum skin and roses. A delicious and lively wine that I’d love to try once it’s been properly bottled. (90 points)

2012 Michel Magnien Clos de la Roche
Sexy and pure on the nose, with berries, violets, deep earth and lavender. Open and inviting on the palate, although the structure is serious. Deep red fruit, earth, intriguing pepper and spice. Silky, great acid. A beauty of a wine that I’d love to revisit once it's finally bottled and has had a year or so to come together. (92 points)

2009 Michel Magnien Nuits St. Georges Petite Charmotte
Raspberries, cola, sweet flowers on the nose. Fresh and driven by sweet cherries, cola, plums and pepper. Rich but fresh with a long finish. Bigger than the 2012s, but still very nice. (88 points)

Grab Bag of French Reds

I’ve been sipping a lot of New World wines of late, so I figured it was time to go back and check up on some French reds. With so many diverse regions and stellar vintages, I like to keep up with how Burgundy, Rhône and Bordeaux wines are aging. A Bandol (a mourvèdre-based wine from Provence) is thrown into this report as well because it’s too damn amazing not to write about. Cheers!

2005 Domaine Tollot-Beaut Chorey-Côte-de-Beaune (France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chorey-Côte-de-Beaune)

Medium ruby colored. Aromas of raspberries and tangy red currants, along with dried flowers, sage and mushroom. With time I picked up more beet and bay leaf aromas. (Reminds me of Kyiv!) On the palate, tangy acid lines up with medium-grained but firm tannins. Flavors of tangy cherries, raspberries, mushroom, sage and pepper. There’s some toasty oak in here too — it’s aged for 16 months in 20% new oak — but it’s balanced very well. Long finish with notes of pickled beet and green coffee beans. This wine is really hitting the spot, but I could see aging it for another two years. A very impressive pinot from the relatively humble Chorey-Côte-de-Beaune appellation. I’d never heard of this producer, but they are on my radar now. (89 points)

2006 Domaine Gachot-Monot Côte de Nuits Villages (France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages)

This pinot noir shows aromas of incense, white pepper, roses, sour cherry, sage and herbal liqueur. The palate is tangy, with firm tannins. Sour cherry and cranberry lead the way to bitter coffee, herbal liqueur, iron and rich loam. After two hours I started picking up more bay leaf and cinammon notes. Wow, for a basic Côte de Nuits Villages appellation this is showing a lot of class. Long, pristine finish. I’m really liking 2006 Burgundys right now, but they (and this wine in particular) could still stand a few years in the cellar. Serious structure here. A steal at auction at $15! A Kermit Lynch import, no wonder it’s so good. (89 points)

2001 Château Malescasse (France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc)

Currants, beet root and savory herbs on the nose. The palate shows fresh acid and fine tannins on a medium-bodied frame. Flavors of currant and earth lead, but very distinct flavors of dried tobacco, oregano and dill pickle come out with air. Well-aged, perhaps nearing its peak drinking window, but a fun wine with some unique flavors. Lacking depth and intensity to be great, but I drank this with a sub after a cold day of surfing and I was happy, especially considering I picked it up for less than $20. (87 points)

2005 Château de Pibarnon Bandol (France, Provence, Bandol)

I first tasted this hearty Provencal red in 2009 and loved it. It’s only gotten better and still has an easy ten years of maturation ahead of it. Pretty brick-ruby color in the glass. A bit tight upon opening, but after two hours in the decanter, this baby started to sing. Aromas of bacon, smoke, iron, grilled herbs, menthol and a distinctly sweet note of lavender. The aromas are so complex and inviting. On the palate this wine shows tight tannins and a glycerin-like mouthfeel, but with the medium acid the wine maintains terrific balance. Flavors of blackberry puree and cranberry sauce mix with a host of earth and animal flavors, loam, graphite, roasted pork and sweet herbs. Notes of smoke and lavender linger on a very long finish. The best Bandol I’ve ever had, and it’s nowhere near the end of its life. 90% mourvèdre and 10% grenache. (94 points)

It's not every day I find a Cotes-du-Rhone that is
widely available, cheap ($12-$15) and seriously good.

2011 Saint-Cosme Côtes du Rhône (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône)

Aromas of red and black plum, white pepper, crushed rocks and smoked meat. Absolutely beautiful on the nose, and it got more expressive with two hours of air. On the palate, this wine shows strong tannic backbone, balanced by acidic verve throughout. I love the mix of fruit flavors (black cherry, wild raspberry, plum skins) with the earthy and savory flavors of charred meat, white pepper, tobacco leaf, graphite and anise. The mineral components, the length of the finish and the overall complexity give this wine so much more than your basic Cotes-du-Rhone bottle. An unbelievable bargain at $12, this deserves some sort of Screaming Value Award. It also deserves some age, because there’s some serious flavor packed in here. I’ve read that this is 100% syrah, but I’m not 100% sure of that. (90 points)

2007 Domaine La Millière Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Aromas of red and black plums, blackberry sauce, mixed in with roasted red pepper and notes of charred earth. After an hour, I started picking up more fig paste and bay leaf. Full-bodied, the tannins aren’t fierce, but they provide decent structure. Medium acid makes this much more balanced than some other CdPs from the hot 2007 vintage (by the way, the alcohol content is listed as 12-14%). Blackberry and raspberry flavors mix with dark chocolate shavings, toasted chestnut, earth and roasted meat. With time, flavors of fig paste and smoke came out. Smooth on the finish. Bold, but for a 2007, this is showing some restraint. I like the toast and earth notes on the finish. A very fine CdP that I’d like to taste again in two years. (90 points)

Winding Down a Year of Pinot Noir

In 2012 I tasted more pinot noir than any other wine. Out of the nearly 700 wines I wrote down, 107 were pinot noir, and that doesn't even include Champagne and other sparkling wines that often contain a certain percentage of pinot noir.

Basically, what I'm saying is: I love pinot noir. And you should too.

I wrapped up 2012 with four different pinot noirs from four different regions. Each bottle was yummy, and, taken as a whole, they demonstrate the inexhaustibility of good pinot noir.

2005 Coelho Winery Pinot Noir Paciência
(Oregon, Willamette Valley)
It's got this pretty, Burgundian look, very clear and bright. A burst of bright, sweet strawberries, red licorice and tons of dried roses on the nose. What a nose, especially with a few hours open. On the palate, the fine tannins and bright acid combine to form a really silky mouthfeel. Snappy red cranberries meet potting soil and rhubarb flavors. There's a kick of dill that carries onto the finish, which I really enjoy. A very brisk pinot. It's got the bright red fruit and acid of a Beaune red, but some nice Willamette Valley love. While I really like this, I'm not sure I'd age it for more than two more years. 89 points

2009 Dept. C Pinot Noir Paraiso Vineyard
(California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands)
I really liked this pinot noir's more nuanced approach. Aromas of smoky red fruit, toast, raspberry jam and a hint of lavender. Full of sappy red fruit on the palate (sour cherry, pomegranate), and some savory herbs as well. Full but not cloying. Seems like it could improve well over the next three or so years. 88 points

2009 Joseph Drouhin Chorey-les-Beaune
(France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chorey-les-Beaune)
Medium ruby colored. Nose isn't too exciting, showing sweet cherries, raspberries and hints of earth. On the palate, this pinot shows bright, tangy red fruit, like cranberries and sour cherries, mixed in with some sweet strawberries. Mediuim tannins, medium acid, medium depth. It's a fun pinot, but lacking a bit of verve or excitement to get me really into it. Some nice toast and mocha on the finish. Maybe time will help a bit? On sale for $22, not a bad buy. 86 points

2009 Domaine David Clark Côte de Nuits Villages
(France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages)
As far as $30 Burgundies go, this is actually really good. I really liked the 2008, and I think I like this even better. Aromas of smoky red cherries, rose petals and mushrooms. On the palate, this is light and elegant, yet generous in its flavors. Bright cherry fruit for structure, fresh acid, fine tannins and loads of seconday earthy and mushroom flavors. Delicious stuff that I'd like to revisit in two or three years. 90 points

2013 is now here, and I’m really looking forward to drinking more delicious pinot noirs this year. Hope you’re planning to do the same. Cheers!