Oregon's Troon Just Keeps on Rockin'

Longtime readers may have seen me praise Oregon’s Troon Vineyard in the past. Well, here I am again to do it again.

I can’t help it – Troon just keeps putting out exciting wines. From old classics to an array of newer blends and styles in recent years, their across-the-board consistency has been pretty amazing. Based in the Applegate Valley of southern Oregon, Troon puts out are biodynamic wines with native yeasts and a fresh, spicy but focused appeal.

If your palate tends more toward the leaner side of the Syrah spectrum, and you’re happy with roasted, savory, spicy flavors, this trio of Troon Syrahs is definitely worth checking out. “Syrah may be the ideal variety for our site,” says winegrower Craig Camp. After tasting a lot of these wines over the years, it’s a convincing argument. These three wines offer a good view of their approach to this grape overall, and it was a joy tasting them together and parsing through the nuances. All three of them were aged 20 months in mature French oak.

The Druid’s Fluid wines are based on the traditional blends of the Cotes du Rhone, and deliver just what you’d hope for from their French counterparts: delicious fruit, some spicy accents, and lots of value. The Cotes du Kubli wines are blends from Troon’s Cowhorn Vineyard, and are called such because they’re sourced from the hills around the Kubli Bench, a plateau above the Applegate River. They’re consistently reliable and delicious expressions of Troon’s style.

And, while label aesthetics doesn’t affect what’s in the bottle, it still matters. And Troon has been revamping their design in different ways lately, and I think it’s paying off. From the flowy symbol design of the Druid’s Fluid to the detailed guidebook style drawings of their biodynamic preparations, the bottles really draw my attention. And then the juice itself overdelivers.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted, except for the three Syrahs, which I tasted single-blind.

2020 Troon Vineyard Druid’s Fluid White – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. The nose sports this salty, floral, citrus-popping appeal with lemon, orange, peach, with some chalky, flinty tones. The palate has this crisp, nervy, salty vibe, which works well with the lemon, orange peel and kiwi fruit. The floral and herbal complexity is really something, with this minty, celery seed, saline, honeysuckle tones and this pervasive sense of mountain stream freshness and mineral nerviness. So fun, so good. (90 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Druid’s Fluid Red – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Deep ruby color. Gamay-esque goodness on the nose, so floral and accessible, gushing with strawberries and cherries, along with rose petals, potting soil, clay and potpourri tones. Zesty and brisk acidity, with dusty tannins and a bright feel. Juicy strawberries, cherries and raspberries, laced with deep violets, sage, some pepper and light roast coffee. This wine is all about the mouthfeel and vibe, which is fresh, inviting and delightful. (90 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Côtes du Kubli Blanc – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. The nose shows deep, fascinating scents of orange marmalade, lemon curd, with notes of whipped honey, nougat and sea salt. Deep texture with gorgeous honeyed mouthfeel and moderate acidity. Orange and lemon peel, yellow apple and pineapple fruit, juicy but fresh and focused. Notes of seashells, raw almond, hay, honey. A rich wine but crystal clear and so fresh. Seems like a few years of age could do some good. 55% Roussanne, 25% Marsanne, 20% Viognier, only 12.6% alcohol. (92 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Cotes du Kubli Rouge – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Vibrant purple color. Wow, so fresh on the nose with this chilled raspberry, cherry and strawberry fruit, along with these airy tones of flowers and crushed chalk, and spicier tones of pepper and mulling spices. Zesty and dusty on the palate with crisp acidity and a focused appeal. The red cherries, cranberry and raspberry fruit is lively and crisp, and mixed well with black pepper, violets, and complex leather and beefy tones. Wow this is gorgeous stuff. Unique, airy, lifted, yet deep and complex. 84% Syrah, 16% Grenache, 12.7% alcohol. (93 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Syrah Estate – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Deep ruby color. Ooh, so inviting on the nose with raspberries, strawberries and blueberries, mixed with violets, and a lot of spice (paprika, pepper, curry powder, bay leaf – so good). Crisp acidity, nicely structured with medium tannins and a deep but bright fruit profile (blueberry, strawberry and raspberry). The wine has this gorgeous floral, earthy, spicy appeal, with pepper, curry powder, a potpourri of dried wildflowers and clove. Pretty and alive with a mineral-laden finish. Could use at least a few years to show it’s best, but so delightful young, too. (91 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Syrah Siskiyou – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $50
Beautiful ruby color. Freshness rules the aromas, with juicy cherries and strawberry tones, along with fascinating mix of pepper, pine tar, charcoal, violets and clove. On the palate, this shows crisp acidity and tannins that show a fine dusty grip. Delicious cherries and raspberries are mixed really well with elements of pepper, sage, warm clay, deep earth. Nuances of clove, tobacco and mineral round out the finish. It maintains this gravelly depth throughout – really delightful. From a cooler vineyard, named for the surrounding Siskiyou Mountains. (93 points IJB)

2019 Troon Vineyard Syrah Cowhorn Vineyard – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $50
Deep ruby color. On the nose, a nice kick of black pepper and roasted red pepper over top of the bright plum and juicy cherry fruit. Nice concentration on the palate with a moderate tannic backbone and bright acidity, which sets the stage for beautiful dark cherry and plum fruit. The savory depth is really something, with a host of pepper, braised meats, pepperoni, gravelly and loamy earth. An age-worthy wine but also so inviting and fresh, there’s a lot going on here. Fruit sourced from a cooler site, this is a fascinating Syrah that will age wonderfully for who knows how long. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Delicious, Meaty Mourvedre from California

I don't think I pay enough attention to the Mourvedre grape. I do love me some reds and pink wines from Bandol, the Mourvedre grape's ancestral stomping grounds. But there's so much more out there to explore.
California is home to some excellent Mourvedre, when planted in the right spots and crafted by the right winemakers. While used as a blending grape (usually with Grenache, Syrah or other red Rhone varieties), several winemakers are producing varietal Mourvedres that recently reminded me of the heights this grape can achieve.

Dirty & Rowdy have been making waves for a long time now, and justifiably so. I recently tasted two of their Mourvedres, and a Mourvedre-based blend, that blew me away with their freshness, spiciness, and unique flavor profiles. Add in a wonderful Mourvedre from Sonoma-based Two Shepherds, and a Bandol, and you've got yourself a fun afternoon.

I tasted these wines with good friends and lots of friend chicken. The chicken was salty, spicy and moist, and actually worked really well, especially with the leaner Mourvedre style of these California wines. My notes below...


2014 Two Shepherds Mourvedre - California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado

Aromas of fresh raspberries, cherries, red apples, spicy pepper and roses. So brisk and bright on the palate, but structure from the tannins, refreshing, crisp red fruits. I love to roses, white pepper and bay leaf elements. Gorgeous. (92 points)

2016 Dirty and Rowdy Mourvedre Old Vine Enz Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Lime Kiln Valley
Nose of spices and roses but some pomegranate and black cherries. Fresh, lively, tangy with dusty tannins, raspberries and pepper. Lots of fun but deep, complex, with earthy, savory and floral complexities that will come out more with time. (91 points) 

2016 Dirty and Rowdy Mourvedre Shake Ridge Ranch - California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County
Aromas of black pepper, roses, potpourri on top of raspberries, red apples. Crisp and bright acidity but structured so well. Cherries, spicy currants, raspberries, spicy black pepper, earthy notes, deep floral tones. This was decanted for hours and it felt airy and floral, but still structured for a solid sleep in the cellar. (92 points)

2016 Dirty and Rowdy MSG Chalone - California, Central Coast, Chalone
Really cool aromatic display of black cherries and spiced cranberry sauce, roses, black pepper. Bold tannins but crisp acidity. Crunchy black cherries, pomegranate, lots of baking spices and dark, earthy, charcoal notes but also airy, lifted notes. Complex minerals underneath. Really pretty, I’d love to crack open another in three to five years. Mourvedre, Syrah and Grenache. (93 points) 

2014 La Bastide Blanche Bandol - France, Provence, Bandol
So smoky and beefy on the nose (definitely some brett, but it’s not overwhelming), with black cherries, roasted red peppers. Super grippy on the palate, this was by far the heaviest wine of the night (as expected), and really needs more time. Medium acidity keeps it lively. Lots of smoky, roasted herbs, earth, violets, charcoal. Massive, young but yummy. (90 points)

Killer New Releases from Oregon's Troon Vineyard

Troon Vineyard does it again with these new releases — wow! This winery is based in the Southern Oregon appellation of Applegate Valley, and they produce a range of exciting varietal and blended wines. (I reviewed some different wines from Troon earlier this year.) From a stellar Riesling orange wine, to exciting Vermentinos, Rhone blends, Tannat, etc., the wines show panache, brightness, depth, aging potential. 

I honestly haven’t tasted an unexceptional wine from this producer. And the quality-to-price ratio for some of these wines is bonkers good. 

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

Troon's Vermentino vineyards in Applegate Valley produce some exceptional, crisp white wines.

2016 Troon Vineyard Vermentino - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $15
Pale lemon color. Bursts with aromas of dandelion and honeysuckle, along with lively lychee, apricot, juicy nectarine – very pretty aromatic display. Dry and brisk but pleasantly juicy, waxy texture, and the balance is gorgeous. Lots of apricot, guava and lime pith, but a unique mix of chalk dust, green tea, raw almond. A lingering sense of mineral and talc. Wow, this is serious stuff and an insane bargain. (91 points) 

2015 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Cuvée Rolle - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $22
Pale lemon color. Floral, perfumed nose with cut lilies, dandelion, chalk dust, lemon pepper, along with nectary and pithy limes. Plush texture on the palate but so much saline, chalky, zesty intensity as well, and the balance is very nice. Nectarine and lemon play off of chalk dust, cut flowers, almond shell, lemon pepper and oregano. Deep, precise, exquisite example of this grape variety. (92 points)

2016 Troon Vineyard Blanc Kubli Bench - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light gold color. On the nose, a mix of banana, pineapple and yellow apple with tangy lime, chalk dusty, lamp oil and floral tea. Textural richness rocks but vibrant acidity keeps it fresh. Yellow apple, apricot, kumquat fruit mixed with salted almond, wet chalkboard, yellow flowers and honeycomb. Really pretty, delicious and complex, I’d love to cellar this for 4-5 years and see what happens but this is also good to go. 54% Viognier, 46% Marsanne, 12.5% alcohol. (91 points) 

2016 Troon Vineyard Grenache - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Rogue Valley
SRP: $25
Shining ruby color. Aromas of crushed raspberries and strawberries, along with roses, rhubarb and black pepper, some candied red apple peel. Big on the palate but surprising balance with smooth tannins, medium acidity and a warm, inviting mouthfeel. Jammy red and chilled black cherries mix with cocoa, tobacco, pepper and sweet roses, and the clove and roasted chestnut elements are woven in well. Love it. (90 points) 

2015 Troon Vineyard GSM - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Rogue Valley
SRP: $25
Deep ruby. Aromas of juicy black cherries, red plums, fresh and lively but also really floral and spicy with elements of herbs, coffee, violets and cedar. Medium-bodied with great balance between structured but smooth tannins, medium-acidity, and waves of tangy black and red plums. Laced with graphite, pepper, mushroom, fallen leaves and clay pot notes. Lovely now but lots to show over the next 4-7 years. Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache and Sangiovese. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Clos Solène’s French-Inspired Paso Robles Wines

Clos Solene's new estate vineyard in Paso Roble's Willow Creek District.

Sipping brisk rosé, surrounded by brush and herbs and sun-scorched hills, it did remind me of my wine travels in the Languedoc. Clos Solène’s winemaker, Guillame Fabre, was raised in the winemaking business in France’s Languedoc-Roussillon, and the inspiration is evident in his earthy, spicy wines. But Clos Solène is also pure Paso, with plenty of vibrant, juicy fruit.

Kicked off in 2007, and named for his wife Solène, Guillame founded this winery after working as assistant winemaker at nearby Paso Robles’ producer L’Aventure. On a recent trip to Paso Robles, I stopped by this boutique winery’s tasting room, located in the Willow Creek District, and was thoroughly impressed with the wines.

They produce about 1,700 cases a year, and, like many small Paso Robles producers, most of their wine is sold direct to consumer. But if you ever are traveling in Paso or come across a bottle, don’t hold back – these are really great examples of what’s coming out of Paso Robles these days.

Guillame crafts the wines in the Tin City facility, which is something like a super hip version of the Lompoc Wine Ghetto – lots of warehouse space and winery equipment that has nurtured Paso’s cooperative and experimental wine culture.

He sources his grapes from various sites within the Willow Creek District, as well as others, working with some growers to farm the vineyards. When I visited Clos Solène’s estate and tasting room, the new vineyards had just been grafted, but in a few years the winery will have some high quality estate fruit to add to the mix.

Bottles of Clos Solène of aren’t cheap, but boy to they deliver. I’ll have much more on my Paso Robles trip in future posts, but here are my tasting notes on Clos Solène’s lineup. These wines were tasted sighted at the winery.

2016 Clos Solène La Rosé - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Peachy, juicy strawberry aromas along with floral perfume. Chalky and bright with crisp strawberries, tart white cherries, mixed with saline and crushed seashells. Fun and delicious but shows serious complexity. A blend of Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah. (89 points)

2016 Clos Solène Hommage Blanc - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$60

Interesting aromas, I get bright and zesty elements of limes mixed with rich tropical fruits and flowers. Plump, rich, waxy texture, but moderate acidity. Juicy pineapple and mango, honey, white flowers and chalk notes. Yum! Aged six months in 40% new French oak, no maloactic. 75% Roussanne, 25% Viognier, from James Berry and Glenrose Vineyards. (89 points)

2015 Clos Solène Pinot Noir L'Imprevu - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley$90
Aromas of candied cherries, strawberries, roses and rhubarb. Bright acid (I love it) with medium tannins, and a frame of tart red fruits (cherry, raspberry). Laced with mineral, rhubarb, raspberry leaf and some cola/coffee woven in so well. Really good Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir, here. Aged 16 months in 25% new French oak. (92 points)

2015 Clos Solène Harmonie - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$85
Spicy red fruit aromas (raspberries, cherries) along with roses, red licorice and black pepper. Grippy tannins on this one, but it’s still suave. Bold but bright, tangy but sweet cherries, blended with pepper and rhubarb. Delicious stuff that will get more complex with a few years. 60% Grenache, 26% Mourvedre, 14% Syrah, this is aged 16 months in 20% new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Clos Solène Fleur de Solène - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$70
Beautiful aromatics of black cherries, plums, fig paste, charcoal and black pepper. Bold but velvety, great tannic strength but medium acidity, and I love the tangy black currant and dark plums. Lots of pepper, tar and cocoa powder, and the cedar, coffee and vanilla notes woven in very well. This is very pretty but will get much more so over the next five years. 50% Syrah, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Grenache, aged 16 months in 40% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Clos Solène Hommage À Nos Pairs Reserve - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$95
Super juicy aromatics of blueberries and dark plums, lots of graphite, violets, cola. Built so well with strong tannins but crisp acidity. Blueberries and plum cake line up so nicely with sage, charcoal, violets, vanilla and cocoa. This is very young and needs at least five years until maybe it will start to show its best, but this wine really wowed me. 95% Syrah, 3% Grenache, 2% Viognier, aged 23 months in 70% new French oak. (93 points)

2015 Clos Solène L'Insolent - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$95
Deep purple color and bold on the fruit aromatics (cassis, blackberry, plum cake), along with some cedar, earth, vanilla. Serious structure on this one with grippy tannins, medium acidity, and tangy but big fruit (plum, cassis, blackberry). I get lots of cocoa, roasted chestnut, eucalyptus and charcoal complexities. Built and aligned well but this is years away from its prime drinking window. Should be gorgeous in five to eight years. 70% Cabernet and 30% Petit Verdot from westside Paso Robles vineyards, aged 23 months in 70% new French oak. (93 points)

2015 Clos Solène Sweet Clementine - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$60
This Brandy-fortified dessert wine smells like raspberry jam and candied raspberry along with chocolate. Rich but not too sweet on the palate with low acidity, juicy raspberry and plum cake. Notes of vanilla, coconut and coffee. Fun stuff. Grenache but 3% Syrah, aged 14 months in neutral French oak. (88 points)

Kita: Stunning Santa Ynez Wines With a Restrained Style

Tara Gomez. Credit: Kita Wines.

Tara Gomez, winemaker at Kita wines, has been on a tear for quite a few years now. She crafts an array of varietal wines and blended wines that all share a similar aesthetic: lower alcohol, crisp acidity, bright fruit, less obvious new oak influence, tons of non-fruit complexity. I’ve been tasting these wines for a few years, and they never fail to thrill my senses.

Most of Kita’s grapes are sourced from the Camp 4 Vineyard, a massive vineyard (with more than 250 acres of vines) that is home to 19 different grape varieties. Originally planted by Fess Parker in 1999, the vineyard was purchased by the Santa Ynez Band of the Chumash Indians in 2010. With a scholarship from the tribe, Tara studied enology Cal State Fresno, before working at Fess Parker and J. Lohr. She became winemaker of the newly-formed Kita Wines, and says she views making wine from the tribe’s vineyard as a way of giving back to her community.

This sandy loam soil vineyard sits at the easternmost edge of Santa Ynez Valley, close to Happy Canyon, and produces some incredible Rhone and Bordeaux grape varieties. By harvesting with lower potential alcohol, and judicious use of new oak, the vibrancy of Tara’s wines shines through. And the Pinot and Chardonnay she sources from the Santa Rita Hills are also stunning. So if you’re a fan of the so-called “New California Wine” (as John Bonné lays out in his book), you should definitely check out these wines.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2015 KITÁ Chardonnay Hilliard Bruce Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $30
Pale yellow color. What a nose! So many white and yellow flowers, lots of chalk dust, seashells, notes of lime, kumquat and apricot — complex and lovely to sniff. Gorgeous acidity, it tingles the palate but the wine provides plenty of texture on a medium-bodied frame (12.8% alcohol). Key lime pie flavors, lemon curd, apricot, the fruit is mixed with pretty notes of white tea, honey, chalk and minerals, also some hay and almond. Tastes effortlessly pretty, even though a ton of effort obviously went into crafting this Chardonnay. I’d love to see what four-to-five years does to this wine. This spends six months in French oak, 14% new. (92 points)

2016 KITÁ Sauvignon Blanc Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $24
Rich yellow color. Aromas are bursting with kiwi, gooseberry, lots of lemongrass, sliced jalapeno and green herbs. On the palate, this is medium-bodied with fresh acidity and a rich, creamy texture. Lemon curd, guava, kiwi, the fruit mixes with honey, white tea, sliced jalapeno. I also get nettle, hints of perfume and candlewax, some almond. Lots going on here! This sees 14% new French oak for six months. (89 points)

2015 KITÁ T'aya Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $22
Light gold color. Pretty and exotic aromas of white peach, yellow apples, honeysuckle, orange blossom, ginger. Refreshing and bright but plenty of mouth-filling texture on a medium-bodied frame (13.5% alcohol). Oranges, guava, white peach and banana are mixed with peanut shell, raw almond, candle wax, honeycomb, candied ginger. A lingering sense of salinity. So crisp and refreshing for a California white Rhone blend. A blend of 57% Marsanne, 40% Roussanne, 3% Grenache Blanc, which spends six months in French oak, 14% new. (91 points)

The stunning Camp 4 Vineyard, from which Kita sources most of its grapes. Credit: Kita Wines.

2014 KITÁ Pinot Noir Hilliard Bruce Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $55
Pale ruby color. Nose shows tart strawberries, sour cherries, red apples, and lots of herbal tea, white pepper and roses. Medium-bodied with silky tannins and lip-smacking acidity, such great depth for a lighter-styled Pinot. Apples, strawberries, cranberries, the fruit is tangy and crunchy and laced with basil, white pepper, herbal tea, tobacco and rose hips. So pretty, lean but not weak, light but shows such balance. 12.8% alcohol, this sees 20% new French oak for 18 months. (93 points)

2014 KITÁ Spe'y Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $30
Deep ruby color. Such a pretty aromatic display: red plums and currants, so much dusty earth, leather, bay leaf, pepper, sage, violets, perhaps mistakable for a lighter-style Chateauneuf. Medium+ bodied (13.5% alcohol) with structured but lightly dusty tannins, crisp acidity throughout. Red currants mix with black cherries and dark plum skins, add in some cowhide, black pepper, sage, red clay, an underlying mineral presence. Just wow. Delicious now but should evolve nicely for three to six years, easily. Lip-smacking, complex, a Rhone-inspired blend of 55% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 20% Carignan, aged 18 months in 20% new French oak. (93 points)

2014 KITÁ Kalas Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $40
Light purple. Aromas of smoky charcoal, scorched earth, herbal tea, eucalyptus, on top of tart red and black currants. Medium+ bodied with dry tannins and moderating acidity. Tart red and black currants and plums mix well with notes of loamy soil, fallen leaves, grilled mushroom, hints of coffee and cedar are hidden behind. Lots of depth but very alive and pretty. This should improve for three-to-five easily. 13.5% alcohol, 48% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Franc, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, aged 18 months in 40% new French oak. (91 points)

2014 KITÁ Cabernet Sauvignon Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $40
Dark ruby colored. Smells of tart red and black currants, scorched earth and eucalyptus with black peppercorns and grilled herbs. Medium-to-full-bodied with structured but fine tannins, refreshing acidity, and lots of crunchy, tangy red and black fruit (plums, currants). The complex elements of earth, tobacco, pepper, graphite and charcoal are impressive, and the wine shows depth but also freshness. Lots to unpack in the cellar over the next ten years. Aged 18 months in 40% new French oak. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: Delicious California Rhone Reds

This post was first published on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

This week's tasting report is short and sweet: 5 California Rhone wines that rock. If Claifornia Syrah and Grenache-based blends are your thing, $30 can get you a whole lot of deliciousness. Additionally, Shafer's Relentless Syrah is a teeth-staining ball of awesome that deserves the praise it gets. It's not cheap, but wow.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2012 Qupé Syrah - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $30
Deep-ruby color. Jammy black cherries on the nose along with a whole lot of black pepper, add in some smoke and beef broth. Medium-plus-bodied, dusty tannins, refreshing acid, adds up for a silky but fresh mouthfeel. Juicy yet tart fruit (black cherries, red and black currants). Lots of smoke, charcoal, graphite and black pepper. Mocha and cedar notes woven in well. Good to go, but I’d like to revisit this in three years to see more of these savory elements. Mostly Bien Nacido fruit with 25% from the Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard, the wine is aged 22 months in 25% new oak. (90 points)

2013 Anaba Turbine Red - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma ValleySRP $28
Bright ruby color. Nose: Juicy dark cherries, sweet raspberries, notes of cola, rhubarb pie and lavender as well, opens up quite nicely. Chewy yet velvety texture, solid tannic grip, moderate acid, it’s all working really well together. Black cherry, blueberry and raspberry jam fruit, the fruit is dark and rich but open as well. Notes of cola, black pepper, leather, grilled mushrooms and dark earth add lots of complexity. The coffee, cedar and vanilla notes are woven in well and don’t overpower the other elements. Could definitely use some time to unravel, but a very pretty wine. A blend of 42% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre and 28% Syrah, aged in 30% new French oak. (91 points)

2013 KITÁ Syrah Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP $30
Juicy purple color. Rich blackberry, blueberry and boysenberry fruit, but the non-fruit complexities explode from the glass (black pepper, soy, charcoal pit, roasted nuts and coffee). Medium-to-full-bodied, moderate acid, a fleshy wine with a velvety approach. The blueberry, boysenberry and black currant fruit is fully ripe but maintains a tart, crunchy edge. Complex black pepper, mushroom, balsamic, roasted herbs, so much savory complexity. I also get notes of coffee, cedar, sarsaparilla. Long finish, this needs years to fully express itself, but so much going on here. 13.5% alcohol, all Syrah, aged 18 months in 30% new French oak. (91 points)

2013 KITÁ Spe'y Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez ValleySRP: $30
Medium intensity, bright ruby color. Aromas are gorgeous: black cherries, tart red currants, roses, violets, pepper, bay leaf, rhubarb, just a whole lot of aromas to unpack. Medium-full bodied with full but smooth tannins and a bright, refreshing acidic presence. THe fruit is pure and delicious (juicy black cherries, raspberries, crunchy plums and currants). Non-fruit complexity all over the place: cola, rhubarb, sarsaparilla, clay soil, pencil shavings, nuanced kisses of oak and coffee. Long and complex but leaves the palate refreshed. I'd love to taste again in three-to-five years. A beautiful blend of 58% Grenache, 21% Syrah and 21% Carignan, aged 18 months in 25% new French oak. (92 points)

2012 Shafer Relentless - California, Napa ValleySRP: $85
Almost pitch colored. A dense and brooding wine that will take a long time to coax out all the nuances, but I get a mix of roasted fig, juicy blueberries, tart black currants and plum skins, along with tar, violets, white pepper, rich earth, mocha and anise cookie, hints of savory spice. Massively full-bodied and so chewy on the palate, sturdy tannins but not abrasive, some moderate-low acid ties it together and keeps it from feeling too heavy. The blueberry, black cherry and black currant fruit is pure, tart and juicy with intense ripeness all at once. I get complex notes of pepper, soy, violets, mint, root beer, toasted oak, mocha. Such a long finish, a bit of heat is my only complaint. A dense brick of a wine, yet it’s complex and focused. Very young wine with a very long life ahead. Syrah with 11% Petite Sirah, aged 30 months in all new French oak. (93 points)

Rhone Rangers Take DC

For the second year in a row, I had the privilege of tasting through a bunch of Rhone Ranger wines at DC’s Longview Gallery.

The Rhone Rangers are an expansive bunch of vintners from all across the country who join together to promote American wines made from Rhone grapes. To qualify as an official Rhone Ranger wine, member wineries must use one or more of the 22 varieties recognized in France’s Rhone Valley, and these grapes must constitute at least 75% of the blend. Red Rhone grapes like Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre feature prominently, and white grapes like Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne are frequently blended together with other white Rhone varieties.

For more background on the Rhone Rangers movement, and the rising tide of American Rhone wines, check out a great piece in Terroirist by my friend David White: “Embracing the Rhone Rangers.”

I took as many tasting notes as I could, but I didn’t have time to visit all the producers. Oh well, let’s hope they come back next year.


Viña Robles

2013 Viña Robles Viognier Huerhero Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$22
Very floral nose. Creamy and rich on the palate (14.5% alcohol), peachy, floral, nutty, honey, lychee. Bold stuff. (85 points)

2013 Viña Robles Roseum Huerhuero - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$16
A creamy, richer style, lacks acidity. Plenty of fruit (watermelon, strawberry), a chewy, cherry candy element. Lacks non-fruit elements. (83 points)

2012 Viña Robles RED4 Paso Robles - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$17
Tart yet jammy, like fruit-roll-up candy and candied cherries. Soft tannins, nutty, licorice. (82 points)

2011 Viña Robles Petite Sirah Estate - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$29
Chewy, full of plums, ripe but not baked. Earthy, spice, cocoa powder, some nice floral elements. I’m really surprised that this wine has some freshness and a bright approach. (87 points)

2010 Viña Robles Syree - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$39
Bold and chewy, rich and plummy, lots of toast here (60% new oak). Rich, but also quite solid in structure. Smoke, charcoal and earth notes add complexity. One to check up on in a few years. (87 points)


Two Shepherds

2013 Two Shepherds Grenache Blanc Saarloos Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
$25
Floral and bright. Tangy, crisp and salty on the palate, a clean and bright wine with some really interesting seashell, quinine, spiced tea notes. Complex and deserving of much more than the small amount of time I gave to it. (91 points)

2013 Two Shepherds Grenache Gris Blanc Gibson Ranch - California, North Coast, Mendocino
$28
Clean, peachy, tart pears, some honey to mix in with the saline and mineral elements in the wine. Brisk, attractive, cool stuff. From a 105-year-old vineyard in Mendocino. (89 points)

2014 Two Shepherds Grenache Rosé Ceja Farms - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
$23
Tart and bright, mouthpuckering acid (which I love). Stays gulp-tastic with strawberries and raspberries. Pleasant and easy to enjoy without contemplating, or you could contemplate its complexities, whichever sounds good. Friggin delicious. (91 points)

2012 Two Shepherds Pastoral Rouge - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
$34
Bright and clean yet chewy, silky. Lovely berry fruit and summer cerries, hints of pepper and spice on a bed of fine tannins. Very pretty blend of 45% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 25% Syrah. (89 points)


Qupé

2013 Qupé Viognier Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
$35
Creamy peaches, pears and apples, lychee, sweet floral elements. Very floral and tropical, but lacking a bit of verve. (85 points)

2013 Qupé Marsanne - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
$20
Rich and nutty, orange marmalade, candied lemon, lacking a bit of acid. I like the mouthfeel and some of the flavors, but I’d like more acid. Includes 25% Roussanne. (85 points)

2011 Qupé Roussanne Hillside Estate Bien Nacido Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
$40
Creamy, nutty, lovely texture, honeyed but moderate acid. Bright and floral, honeycomb and tropical fruits abound. (88 points)

2012 Qupé Grenache Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
$35
Bold but nice, bright fruit, cherries, currants, backed up by sweet herbs. Big but showing precision and interesting earthy notes. (87 points)

2013 Qupé Los Olivos Cuvée - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
$28
Big and burly, richer with dark fruits, laced with pepper, earth, roasted nuts, notes of cola and spice. Syrah, Mourvedre and Grenache. (87 points)

2012 Qupé Syrah - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
$30
Gadzooks, the pepper! I dig this wine’s approach: full of savory spice, black pepper, beef bouillon cubes. Impressive structure but approachable, juicy black cherry and currant fruit, fleshy, but liking the savory appeal. (90 points)

2010 Qupé Syrah Bien Nacido Hillside Estate - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
$40
Lovely texture, firm yet fresh, with black cherries, cola, earth, peppered steak, charcoal, coffee, sweet spice. Long and complex, lots of fruit but the most attractive elements are the non-fruit ones. Would love to open a bottle in three years or so. (91 points) 

2011 Qupé Syrah The Good Nacido Bien Nacido Vineyard Block X - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
$100
Chewy and rich but not overdone, quite balanced with acid. Savory, bold spices, black pepper, earth, violets. A structured, whole-cluster-fermented wine, this is ageworthy but also showing some attractive freshness and minerality. (92 points)


Hearst Ranch

2014 Hearst Ranch Winery Three Sisters Cuvée - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$22
Super floral, lots of orange blossom, white peaches, kiwi, honeycomb, fun but a bit too tropical and floral at the expense of other elements. (86 points)

2012 Hearst Ranch Winery Three Sisters Cuvée - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$22
Pepper, cola, sweet red licorice on the nose. Chewy, fleshy, bright raspberries and black cherries. A bit hot and toasty but a lot of tasty flavors. 52% Grenache, 43% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre aged in a mix of new French, Minnesota and Appalachian oak. (85 points)

2013 Hearst Ranch Winery Petite Sirah The Pergola - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$28
Huge and chewy, plums and baked cherry pie, add in coffee, mocha, sweet saucy elements. Fun, but close to the goopy, Port-like end of the spectrum. (85 points)


Horton

N.V. Horton Vineyards Viognier Sparkling - Virginia, Central Region, Orange County
$25
Peachy, very floral, simple, fun, a bit yeasty but mostly driven by fruit and floral elements. Cava-like but more tropical and floral. (85 points)

2014 Horton Vineyards Viognier - Virginia, Central Region, Orange County
$20
Creamy texture. Fresh acid, super floral with kiwi, peach nectar. So very floral, like a puree of a dozen different blossoms. (86 points)

2013 Horton Vineyards Roussanne Private Reserve - Virginia, Central Region, Orange County
$25
Crisp and tangy, which is surprising and pleasant. Peaches, pears, honey, slight bit of mineral and sea salt notes. Clean and bright despite the honeyed elements. (87 points)

2012 Horton Vineyards Côtes d'Orange - Virginia, Central Region, Orange County
$15
Cherries, red flowers, spiced coffee, pepper, yet clean and tart approach. Uncomplicated, but fun and crow-friendly. 68% Mourvedre, 22% Syrah, and 10% Tannat. (85 points)

2012 Horton Vineyards Syrah Private Reserve - Virginia, Central Region, Orange County
$25
Velvety, silky smooth, with red and black cherries, some cola, hints of coffee and tea. Approachable but showing interesting and tasty non-fruit complexity. (87 points)


Tablas Creek

2013 Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas Blanc - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$20
Floral, bright pears, clean acid, orange peels, lychee. Fun, simple. 54% Grenache Blanc, 25% Viognier, 13% Roussanne, 8% Marsanne. (85 points)

2013 Tablas Creek Roussanne - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$35
Creamy, floral, orange peels, honey, sweet peaches, notes of tea, nougat. Flowers for days. (86 points)

2013 Tablas Creek Esprit de Tablas Blanc - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$45
Nose orange blossoms, peaches, honeysuckle. Love the acid, peaches, honeydew, flowers, also some salted lime and chalk. Quite complex. A blend of 71% Roussanne, 21% Grenache Blanc, 8% Picpoul Blanc. (88 points)

2014 Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas Rosé - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$20
So pale. Bright strawberries, white cherries, clean and salty and floral. Roses and daisies. Tasty stuff. A blend of 80% Grenache, 17% Mourvedre, 3% Counoise. (86 points)

2013 Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$20
Bright yet jammy, chewy texture, plums, blackberries, roses. Simple yet pleasant. 45% Syrah, 29% Grenache, 22% Mourvedre, 4% Counoise. (85 points)

2013 Tablas Creek Mourvedre - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$40
Nose of peppery goodness. Silky yet bold structure, packed with flavors: red apple peel and dark berries, violets, loam, chestnut, black pepper. Very pretty stuff that would be interesting to cellar for four or five years. (90 points)

2012 Tablas Creek Esprit de Tablas - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$55
Lovely silky texture but structured tannins. Red cherries, black cherries, loamy, dusty, earthy, some tobacco, roses. Love the mouthfeel, firm but smooth. Complex briar and leafy finish. 40% Mourvedre, 30% Syrah, 21% Grenache, 9% Counoise. (90 points)

Enjoying the Wines of Two Shepherds (Again)

Restrained California Rhone wines. More and more frequently, they are popping up and gaining attention. One of my favorite examples is Sonoma-based Two Shepherds, which focuses on cooler climate sites, lower alcohol and minimalist winemaking. The one-man army behind this outfit, William Allen, crafts a range of white and red wines from Rhone grapes that aim for elegance and subtletly over bombast.

I enjoyed sipping Two Shepherds wines during an online event earlier this year and at a Rhone Rangers tasting in Washington, DC this summer. So I was excited when I learned William would be visiting my favorite wine shop in the nation’s capital, Weygandt Wines. Weygandt, which focuses mainly on old world producers, picked up Two Shepherds a few months ago and now sells some of William’s wines. 

Most of them come from the Russian River Valley, where Rhone varieties are less common than the staples Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. But Two Shepherds has also released a 100% Cinsault from Lodi, a delicious anomaly from 130-year-old vines, and William dabbles in fruit from Santa Ynez and El Dorado. 

Some notes from the wines I tasted...

2013 Two Shepherds Viognier Saralee’s Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

$28

So bright and clean on the nose. Fresh and lively palate with beautiful acid and lots of stony minerality. Elegant, long finish. Another great showing from this wine. 33 cases made. (91 points)

2012 Two Shepherds Pastoral Blanc Saralee’s Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
$28

Bursts with peaches, flowers, minerals, some chalky saline elements. Palate is clean and salty with apricot, orange peel and white tea. Very pleasant and fresh and inviting, as always. William’s largest production white, which means a whopping 105 cases. 50% Roussanne, 35% Marsanne, 10% Viognier and 5% Grenache Blanc.  (90 points)

2013 Two Shepherds Cinsault Ancient Vines Bechthold Vineyard - California, Central Valley, Lodi
$34

Nose is bright and peppery, with roses, minerals, a light yet deep and complicated blend of smells. Silky soft on the palate with fine tannins. White cherries and strawberries, mixed with roses. Complex yet crisp, a real treat with lots of depth and gravel, rocky notes. This wine is something else. Morgon meets Northern Rhone meets Lodi rose? I don’t know what to compare this wine to, but I love it. 100% whole cluster fermented from what William said is believed to be the oldest Cinsault vines anywhere. Glad I was able to snag a bottle for the cellar. 35 cases made. (92 points)

2012 Two Shepherds Syrah | Mourvedre - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
$38

Bright cherries and plums, a hint of blueberry on the nose along with bright flowers and a hint of green olive. So bright and clean on the palate, a tangy wine but medium tannin for support. I love the combination of red fruit with these pepper, mineral and graphite notes. 50 cases made. 12.3% alcohol. (90 points)

2012 Two Shepherds Syrah Saralee’s Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
$38

Vibrant aromatics of bright cherries and blueberries, along with some floral and earthy tones. Tangy, bright and fresh on the palate, but fine tannins, combining for a smooth mouthfeel. Love the red roses, pepper and mineral elements to this wine. Complex, elegant, another stunning wine from Two Shepherds. (91 points)

Some of these wines are available at Weygandt’s shop in DC’s Cleveland Park neighborhood. Otherwise, check out www.TwoShepherds.com for more information on how to get your hands on some. 
 
If you’re a fan of California Rhones, stay tuned to the Rhone Rangers’ event page. I’ve heard the Rhone Rangers are headed back to DC’s Longview Gallery for another tasting in mid-2015.

Favorites From a Rhone Rangers Tasting

Wines from France’s Rhone Valley are responsible for my obsession with wine. It was Hermitage and Chateauneuf-du-Pape that got me hooked. Years later, I still seek out and collect Northern Rhone Syrahs and Viogniers, and I’ve never grown tired of red and white Chateauneufs.

For decades, American winemakers have looked to the Rhone Valley for inspiration while crafting wines that evoke a sense of their own time and place. At the forefront of this large movement is an organization called the Rhone Rangers, a non-profit group of vintners who promote American wines made from Rhone grapes.

To qualify as an official “Rhone Ranger” wine, member wineries must use one or more of the 22 varieties recognized in France, and these grapes must constitute at least 75% of the blend. Red Rhone grapes like Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre feature prominently, and white grapes like Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne are frequently blended together. (For more background on the Rhone Rangers movement, and the rising tide of American Rhone wines, check out a great piece by my friend David White from a few weeks ago: “Embracing the Rhone Rangers.”)

In early June, the Rhone Rangers made their first trek to Washington, DC, for a series of tastings, dinners and panel discussions. I caught up with this crew for a tasting held at the Longview Gallery near DC’s Convention Center. The place was packed with winemakers, winery reps and tasters. I only had two hours, and I was having too much fun chatting with winemakers, so I didn’t get to visit everyone.

The white Rhone wines from Two Shepherds are complex and beautiful.

I honed in on a few producers who I think are doing amazing things in California. Under the Two Shepherds banner, wine-writer-turned-winemaker William Allen has been putting out some intriguing stuff from selected vineyards across California. I’ve long been a fan of Donelan’s Sonoma County wines, and this tasting was no exception. And it’s not a California Rhone tasting without Central Coast staple Qupé.

Here are some of my favorite wines from that tasting…

2011 Donelan Syrah Cuvée Keltie - California, Sonoma County ($75)
Nose: dark berries, violets on the nose, warm and inviting. Juicy berry fruit on the palate, ripe but tangy. Also some meat, olive, tobacco and violet notes. Zingy, with a long finish. I’d cellar this for two years and see what it’s up to.

2009 Qupé Syrah Bien Nacido Hillside Estate - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley ($40)
Dark berries, charcoal, some smoke on the nose. Quite elegant on the palate, with a velvety mouthfeel and some crisp acid. Pure berry and currant fruit, with complex notes of pickle, spice and soy. Rich, lasting, pure, plenty of time ahead. 

2012 Two Shepherds Grenache Saralee’s Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley ($38)
Love the nose, so floral, cool fruit, elegance. Fine tannins, crisp acid, a lighter, more elegant style at 13.3% alcohol. Cool red fruit, mixed with spice, earth and roses. Complex, versatile, I don't remember the last California Grenache I thought of as thirst-quenching. 

2011 Wrath Syrah Doctor’s Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands ($39)
Nose: smoke, crushed granite, meat on top of red currants and plums. Palate: firm, medium+ acid, currants and plums, but not too rich. Tangy throughout, with smoke, earth, meaty, jetty rock elements. Yup, this is doing it for me. 

2011 Cornerstone Cellars Syrah Stepping Stone - California, Napa Valley ($35)
Deep aromas, love the currants, plums, earthy, pepper, smoke, lots of depth. Juicy palate, fresh plum & currants, solid structure. Earth, loam, charcoal, chewy yet elegant. Will be even prettier with another two years. Wowed again by this wine. 

If you’re interested in notes from the full tasting, you can view my CellarTracker report here.

Have you tasted any good California Rhone wines lately? If so, I’d love to hear your thoughts.

Cheers!