Summery selections from Oregon's Troon Vineyard

Lately, it’s been so hot and humid I haven’t thought much about wine. But it’s also the Fourth of July, making it a perfect time to highlight one of my favorite American producers. And – bonus – these offerings from Troon are perfect Summery selections, offering brightness and gulpability while delivering serious complexity and staying power.

If you haven’t heard of Troon, I’ve been a big fan for years. Located in the unique terroir of Southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley, they’re a biodynamic purveyor or distinct grapes and blends. And they’re always pushing the envelope, trying something a bit different, while paying homage and respect to Old World grapes and traditional methods and styles. Like the ancient method of fermenting grapes with native yeasts outdoors in clay vessels – amphorae. Troon’s work with this method has yielded some exciting and dynamic wines.

They fit very well in this lane, and offer curious and adventurous wine drinkers many options. I have yet to taste a Troon wine that didn’t win me over, so I’m pretty confident everyone can find something they love in their lineup.

And if you’re looking to stock up on some wines for hot weather, these three options won’t disappoint. These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2023 Troon Vineyard Ascendant Amber - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Medium copper color. So cool and spritely on the nose with an infusion of orange and lemon peels, dried pineapple chunks, and plenty of white flowers, white pepper, and crunchy sea salt. The palate sports a crisp and zesty appeal with lovely textural depth from the amphorae, and a pristine balance. Limes, nectarine, orange peel, and dried pineapple mix well with elements of floral perfume, wild green herbs, and sea breeze. Crisp, deep, complex, mouth-watering, and very interesting! 46% Vermentino, 29% Viognier, and 25% Grenache Blanc, harvested and fermented separately in amphorae with native yeasts and about 30% whole cluster. (92 points)

2024 Troon Vineyard Glou-Glou - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $30
Dark pink color. Such a lovely and spritely nose of watermelon, papaya, quince, along with dandelion, roses, and white pepper. The palate is crisp and inviting with zesty acidity and a medium-bodied frame with a slight spritz. Red apples, papaya, strawberries, the crunchy fruit blends well with tones of rose petals, chalk dust, floral perfume, and subtle pepper and nettle tones. Flinty, lively, crisp, and clean. Made from co-fermented 52% Cinsault and 48% Grenache in a blanc de noirs style. Is it a dark rosé? A light red? Whatever it is, it’s a crushable nouveau-style wine that’s complex and absolutely delicious with a little chill. (90 points)

2023 Troon Vineyard Mourvèdre Amphora - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley

SRP: $65
Rich purple color. The nose shows saucy plums, dark cherries, red and black currants, even some raspberry. With the fruit I get tones of spiced black tea, clove, bay leaf, tilled soil, anise, and some rocky, graphite elements. The palate shows delightfully crisp acidity and dusty tannins frame the wine nicely, making for a wonderfully balanced wine. Black cherries, dark plums, and red/black currant fruit (all tangy and rich) blend with menthol, violets, rose hips, and pepper. Complex, balanced, and a ton of fun. Made from 30% whole-cluster Mourvedre fermented outdoors in amphorae for 18 days with native yeast. A unique and exceptional Mourvedre. (93 points)

Troon continues to excite with new 2023 vintage

Oregon’s Troon is always up to some cool, nerdy stuff. I’ve been a big fan of this producer (based in Southern Oregon’s unique Applegate Valley) for years, and they’re still surprising me. From meaty, peppery Syrahs, to crisp iterations of Vermentino (which may be some of my favorite in the U.S.), to fun outings like carbonic wines and Piquettes, you’d be hard pressed not to find something you like.

If you’re looking for an introduction into this biodynamic producer’s portfolio, a great place to start would be with their Druid’s wines. In 2023, they produced three of (a red, white, and rosé). These blends, inspired by the Rhone Valley and Provence, offer a value-driven taste of Applegate Valley personality. Here in the estate vineyards, the diverse Kubli Bench soil, microclimate, and winemaking style combine for wines that are fresh, relatively low in alcohol, and packed with unique spices and textures.

I also have their new vintages of their Vermentino and Syrah, two grapes with which Troon excels.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2023 Troon Vineyard Druid's White - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Bursting aromatic display of saline, chalk dust, oyster shell, along with green apples, white peaches, and limes, topped in some complex floral tones. The palate sports a racy frame with pleasant creaminess and a zippy, mineral infusion. A choice fruit salad (papaya, green apples, and white peaches, drizzled in lime), blended with nuances of oyster shells, chalk dust, breezy floral meadows. Hints of nutshell and honey linger on the finish. A beautiful blend of Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Vermentino, and Roussanne. (91 points)

2023 Troon Vineyard Druid's Pink - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Bright copper color. The nose sports an enticing mix of white peaches, lemons, red apples, with a cool mix of spiced white tea, mint, and slate-mineral vines. On the palate, this sports a delightful mix of spiced cranberry sauce, watermelon, raspberries, and white cherries, on a frame of crisp acidity and pleasantly creamy texture. Notes of mint, white flowers, chalk dust, and white pepper add complexity. Lovely, vibrant, complex rose. A classic blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault, Carignan, and Counoise. (90 points)

2023 Troon Vineyard Druid's Red - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Bright purple color. The aromas show juicy plums, raspberries, cherries, even some pomegranate, all of it super fresh and inviting, with tones of rose hips, tobacco, and some mineral/earthy vibes. The palate has dusty tannins, vibrant acidity, yet lots of depth, with a pleasant and crushable vibe. Crunchy cherries, red plums, raspberries, the fruit is backed up by tones of dusty earth, pepper, roses, leather, all woven in so nicely. Love the freshness and unique flavors and vibe. A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Carignan. (91 points)

2023 Troon Vineyard Vermentino - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Pale lemon color. Bursting with fresh aromas on the nose, like kiwi, lemons, grapefruit, and crunchy green apples, with floral perfume, mint, some tropical tea as well. The palate is bright and brisk but shows lovely depth of texture, with flavors of kiwi, papaya, lime. Accents of limestone, seashells, white tea, honey, and almond skin blend so well together. Fresh, airy, bright, but complex – a lovely iteration of this grape from folks who know what they’re doing with it. (92 points)

2022 Troon Vineyard Syrah - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Bright purple color. The nose shows a deep but bright mix of red plums, cherries, and raspberries, along with a host of spicy, herbal, and floral tones (pepper, violets, roses, sage). The palate shows suave tannins, crisp acidity, and a tangy core of black cherries, raspberries, and plums. I get a lot of black pepper, rose petals, tobacco, and there’s a deep sense of stony minerality, earth, and vibrant flower gardens. This will be a delight for quite a while in the cellar as well. (92 points)

American wines to beat the heat

I hope you’re all enjoying the Summer so far. It’s been a hot and humid mess here in the Mid-Atlantic, and I’m doing more hibernating than usual.

With more of the same on the way, I’ve been enjoying some bright and crisp wines to share with friends and family of late. And with the Fourth of July coming up, this is always a great time of year to highlight some excellent American wines that would be good all Summer long.

Perfect summer wines from Troon.

To start things off, I have some wines from Troon, a biodynamic, envelope-pushing, and just downright fun producer that makes a wide range of offerings from the Applegate Valley in the south of the state. For this piece, I have three wines that I would gleefully crack open for guests this Fourth. We’ve got a lees-aged Grenache Blanc (adding all sorts of texture to this zippy grape), a most crushable red made in a Beaujolais style, and a fascinating rosé.

From California, I have a Mediterranean-style crusher from Paso Robles, and an excellent rosé from Three Sticks that I think would impress fans of higher-end, deeper, complex pinks.

Whatever you’re opening and enjoying, I wish you and yours a very happy Summer, and a safe and pleasant Fourth of July.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Troon Vineyard Grenache Blanc Extended Lees Aging - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Bright lemon color. A fresh and inviting aromatic display of green apples, white peach, and kiwi, along with almond skin, saltine cracker, and flinty minerals. Racy and taut on the palate but this has an incredibly deep texture, with this harmony between waxy and oceanic elements. Green apple, papaya, white peach, the fruit is mixed with nuanced tones of oyster shell, white pepper, and some green herbs and savory tones that need air to come out. A nerd’s wine but one that a casual fan would likely also find delicious. This spends 17 months in neutral French oak. (93 points)

2023 Troon Vineyard Ascendant Rosé - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Pale copper color. Complex and inviting on the nose, with red apple peel, white cherries, wild raspberries, topped in dandelion greens, honeysuckle, and sea breeze. The palate is punchy and juicy but racy with the acidity, making for a lip-smacking and balanced pink. Watermelon, red and white cherries, the ripe and tangy fruit blends well with nuances of mint, crushed shells, mountain stream, basil, and white pepper. A breezy, delicious rosé from Troon that should age well. 38% Cinsault, 33% Mourvèdre, 11% Grenache, 10% Counoise, 8% Carignan. (92 points)

2023 Troon Vineyard Grenache Glou-Glou - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Vibrant ruby color. A bright aromatic display of strawberries, cranberries, and wild raspberries, with spiced herbal tea, rose hips, and rhubarb. On the palate, this is crushable and bright with a brisk and pleasant appeal. Flavors of tart cranberry relish and red apple peel with some deeper cherry fruit, and a cool mix of spicy herbs, white pepper, rose petals, and dusty earth. Fun and fresh but can’t deny the balance and complexity. A great summer sipper that will win over a lot of fans at the barbecue, I wager. A blend of Cinsault and Grenache. (90 points)

2021 Paso Verde White Wine - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

Credit: Paso Verde

SRP: $25
Light yellow color with a slight spritz. Fresh and bright on the nose, with limes, white peaches, white and yellow flowers, with some salty-chalky vibes. On the palate, this is zippy and fun with bright acidity but some nice textural depth. Bright green apples, with limes, papaya, mixed in with some nice white flowers, dandelion, and some chalk dust and minerals. Crushable and fun but complex and balanced, too. Paso has such variety, that there’s always some cool iteration of an Old World style here, and this blend of Grenache Blanc, Verdelho, Vermentino, and Picpoul is a lot of fun. (90 points)

2023 Three Sticks Castenada Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $45
Pretty light strawberry color. The nose is super fresh and spritely, with crushed shells, talc, floral perfume, daisies, over tangy strawberries, white cherries, and crunchy red apples. The palate has this wonderful depth of texture, rich but vibrant with crisp acidity. Flavors of papaya, white cherry, watermelon, and red apples mix wonderfully with floral, mint, talc, limestone, and white tea elements. Lots of minerals and herbal nuances – very impressive depth and complexity. All estate grown Pinot and Chardonnay. (92 points)

California and Oregon wines for giving and holiday celebrations

It’s that rush before the holidays when things are crazy and time seems to fly by. There’s so much to do and plan, and wine-buying shouldn’t be an added stress. So, this week I have a group of wines from producers I think would make great gifts or bottles to open with your friends and family this holiday season.

I’m focusing on California and Oregon, from two producers I’ve known and respected for a while, to a new (to me) producer from a well-known region. In the spirit of giving and thankfulness, I’ve chosen producers I think make a solid effort toward environmental stewardship, and delicious wines.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

Halter Ranch

I have such fond memories of visiting Paso Robles. The place is beautiful, the people welcoming, and the wines – it’s just an embarrassment of riches. The diversity of grapes is impressive – whether the Bordeaux classics, or Italian varieties blended together in all shapes and sizes, to Spanish grapes that fit various nooks and crannies in the Paso terroir. Lots of little gems pop up if you go looking. There’s a real, true-blue feel to a lot of the winemakers, and it seems evident in a lot of wines. They’re not showy for the sake of it, they’re clear expressions of intent, style, and place. And whatever style you’re into, I bet you can find a cool expression somewhere in the larger Paso Robles region.

Take this new-to-me producer, Halter Ranch. I thought I had a pretty good understanding of a lot of the producers here, but I somehow missed this one. I’m glad that has been rectified. Halter Ranch tends to 200 acres of organic vineyards, walnuts, and olives. Sheep graze (and fertilize) the vineyard in classic fashion. And proprietor Hansjörg Wyss and winemaker Kevin Sass make at least 15 different expressions or blends from 20 different varieties of west-side Paso fruit. Looking at their lineup, there’s a lot piques my interest. These wines offer an enticing look at what these folks are doing.

2022 Halter Ranch Grenache Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $43
Light copper color. A beautiful nose of yellow apples, white peach, orange peels, with nuances of sea salt, crunchy limestone, white tea – deep but it has this airy, breezy complexity, too. The palate is crisp and bright on a medium-bodied frame with some lovely depth of texture. The flavors of white peach, lemon curd, and green apples play well off tones of ocean spray, floral perfume, some honey butter, and white tea complexities. I’m a big fan of Grenache Blanc for its bright yet expressive appeal, and this is a lovely take. Includes a bit of Picpoul and Viognier. (92 points)

2020 Halter Ranch Sparkling Picpoul Blanc Libelle - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $85
Bright lemon color with fine bubbles. The aromatic pop is so bright and floral, but shows layered depth, with lots of white and yellow flowers, chalk dust, with pie crust, over kiwi and green apples. The palate shows light body but plenty of creamy depth, and vibrant acidity, framing up the lemon, papaya, and green apple fruit. I love the racy, taut vibes, the minerals and chalk dust. The complexity is really delightful, and though it maintains this brisk appeal, there are a lot of layered, deeper elements to parse through. That flinty mineral element on the finish – lovely. A great idea for the holidays or in a blind tasting – I’d enjoy hearing the guesses from wine nerd friends. Picpoul made in the Champagne method. (92 points)

2020 Halter Ranch Cotes de Paso - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $55
Medium purple color. An expressive nose of raspberries and cranberry relish, with juicy black cherries, and nuances of violets, clove, warm clay, black pepper, and cedar and coffee grounds. Full-bodied but fresh and vibrant with a silky, pleasantly plush mouthfeel. Concentrated but clear fruit (raspberries, plums, cranberry relish, tart blueberries), and the fruit is mixed well with elements of spiced black tea, coffee grounds, roasted nuts, hints of cedar. Finishes with stony minerals and earth. A super cool blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, and Tannat. Paso’s got the goods! (92 points)

2020 Halter Ranch Ancestor - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District

SRP: $85
Deep purple color. A rich nose of blackberry, blueberry, tangy black cherries, tossed with spicy tobacco, earthy-sage tones, black pepper, and deeper elements of anise and mocha. Deep but vibrant, serious grip on the tannins but things are ironed out and seamed together nicely. A core of tart black currant and blueberries starts things off, and the non-fruit elements shine (black pepper, all sorts of soil and rocks, mineral/graphite accents, hints of barbecue sauce). A lot to parse through, this is focused and deep young but will age wonderfully, and those savory complexities will really pop. 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Petit Verdot and 20% Malbec. (94 points)

Troon Vineyard

Anyone who has read my wine writing over the past decade has likely heard about Troon, located in southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley. This producer casts a wide net in terms of varieties and styles, with a serious commitment to the land. Dick Troon first planted vines out here in 1972, and their unique terroir along the Kubli Bench provides a beautiful canvas for their wide variety of bottlings. They’re regenerative organic certified, practice biodynamic farming and winemaking, along with carbon sequestration efforts. And their wines are consistently awesome, and somehow not that expensive.

I’m focusing on their Druid’s Red and White blends, which I think would be a great introduction into this producer’s approach and style. Like the seasons, the blends are different each year. They’re so food-friendly and crowd-pleasing, so they’d be a good call for holiday festivities.

2022 Troon Vineyard Druid's White - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. A tropical, floral bouquet with pineapple, lemon curd, kiwi, and papaya, topped in chalk dusty, crunchy sea salt and river rocks, with honey and almond skin. The palate has a smooth texture and crisp acidity with green and yellow pears and apples, along with kiwi, mixed with orange blossom, dandelion, some sliced cucumber, and sea salt. There’s a focused mineral presence underneath as well. This is so much fun. This vintage is a blend of Vermentino, Marsanne, Lagniappe, and other grapes. (90 points)

2022 Troon Vineyard Druid's Red - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley

SRP: $25
Vibrant purple color. The aromas show a tangy compote of plums, raspberries, and tangy blueberries, along with violets, potting soil, some light roast coffee, and all sorts of herbs and spices. The palate is super zesty and bright, with tangy wild raspberries and strawberries, saucy plums, cranberry jam. I enjoy the clay and earth tones, with violets and herbal tea. So fun and juicy, crushable yet complex. A great combination. An exciting kitchen sink blend of grapes like Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Tannat, Negrette, and others. (90 points)

Gamble

Maybe I’m biased because my parents are, technically speaking, mill keepers. In the rural foothills of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, they’ve rejuvenated an historic mill property from neglect and overgrowth over the past 15 years. That’s where I planted a failed vineyard, and spent countless days fishing, working the property, bird-watching, enjoying nature and family.

I’m always a supporter in wineries that take part in various charitable or actionable work on behalf of different conservation goals. And this brand is a supporter of the National Parks Conservation Association and a partner of one Napa Valley’s Bale Grist Mill State Park. This wine is delicious, reasonably-priced, and one worth sharing or gifting.

Gamble’s higher-end Napa Cabs are real gems. I’ve been a fan of them for many years, and they’re the type of Napa Cabernet that is delicious upon first taste and keeps rolling out the nuance and complexity over the course of hours or days. If you’re gifting a Napa Cab lover (or just buying for yourself), I’d go for two – one for this season, and one to bury and forget about for five to eight years.

Non-Vintage Mill Keeper Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California

SRP: $26
Light purple color. A warm and inviting nose of roasted figs, tangy red currants, sweet black cherries, along with scents of coffee, toffee, smoky earth, and chewing tobacco. The palate is ripe and plush but shows good depth and texture, with chewy tannins and fresh acidity. Plummy, saucy plums, juicy raspberries, and spiced cranberry relish. Notes of coffee grounds, dark chocolate shavings, and some cool earthy, tobacco, and sage tones. A crowd-pleasing, fun, but balanced Cab that’s a blend of vintages and Napa sites. (90 points)

2018 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60 

Rich purple color. Aromas of warm currant and fig compote, with tangy black cherries, vibrant and deep fruit, mixed with complex tones of peppered steak, dried violets, tobacco, and a host of rocky, mineral, smoky earth, and charcoal vibes to parse through. Suave, juicy, well-structured tannins, the palate is kept aloft by vibrant acidity, and I get flavors of black currants, roasted fig, and blackberries. The complexities of roasted red pepper, sage, grilled steak, and dried flowers offer a lot of deliciousness and intrigue. This has a long life ahead, and I really look forward to where these savory tones go, and to see this wine resolve into a beauty. Drink now with a good decant or let it sit for five or eight years. Includes 7% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot, 5% Cab Franc, and 3% Malbec aged in 40% new French oak for 20 months. (94 points)

Troon continues to excel with their Southern Oregon wines

I’ve been a huge fan of Oregon’s Troon for about a decade now. And they’ve been such an exciting producer to watch, sourcing a wide array of grapes from unique terroirs in Oregon’s Applegate Valley, hard-crafting wines of diverse styles. They’re not afraid to experiment by any means, but it seems their experiments are so well thought out, and they tend to work.

For as long as I’ve followed this producer, it’s impressed me how they continue to craft terroir-driven, interesting, delicious wines at such good prices. This producer has long been practicing biodynamic practices, and has seems truly dedicated to sustainable practices and promoting responsible winegrowing.

I recently tasted four of their new releases, wines that remind me why I got excited about this producer in the first place. The grapes are grown in the Kubli Bench formation of Southern Oregon, which creates an incredible mix of granitic and riverbed soils with plenty of sunshine and large diurnal temperature swings. 

They have a great blog, lots of interesting videos, and other information on their website. From my perspective, from farming to label design, they are obsessed with making attractive wines and promoting their region. And I think that’s great. Troon really works to get their message, beliefs, and, most importantly, their wines out there.

This week, I have four of their new releases. It’s spooky season, a great time for orange wine. And their Amber is a cool introduction to this style.

Troon really has their Vermentino program dialed in, as they make a skin contact, a sparkling, and a wine aged on the lees. I think they’re one of the best doing it in the U.S., to be honest. In a blind tasting of wines from Sardinia, for example, a Troon wine would be an excellent ringer.

Troon’s rosé is an absurd value, and an easy half-case buy if you’re looking for a pink you could drink all year long, and age a few. Lastly, a peppery, incense and violet-infused Syrah really delivers.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Troon Vineyard Vermentino - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $30
Pale lemon color. The nose is bright and salty with tropical flowers and spritely tones; the fruit is lemon and kiwi and orange peel, mixed with honey, sea salt, almond skin, and white flowers. On the palate, this is taut and energetic with a floral, bright, oceanic appeal. Notes of kumquat, lime, orange peel – the fruit blends well with elements of minerals, chalk dust, sea salt, celery seed. I get nuances of white and yellow flowers, along with notes of honey and peanut skin. Complex, vibrant, this would be amazing with oysters. A lot going on here, and Troon really has such expressive Vermentino. An absurd value, and worth seeking out. (93 points)

2022 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Amber - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Rich, deep yellow/amber color. The nose is so vibrant and expressive with ripe peach and yellow apple, mixed with orange peel, kiwi, and plenty of floral perfume, honeysuckle, and cool tones of candle wax and mint. The palate sports a delightfully waxy texture, crisp acidity, and a salty-briny appeal, with plenty of peach fruit, orange peel, watermelon rind, pineapple – love it. Nuances abound in terms of sea salt, white pepper, sliced cucumber, yellow flowers. Delicious, and I know orange wines are generally consumed young, but this has some interesting aging potential, I think. Vermentino, Viognier, and Roussanne, made in a skin-contact style with 30% whole cluster fermentation in neutral oak. (92 points)

2022 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Rosé - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley

SRP: $25
Light peach color. So spicy, floral, and fresh on the nose, with a burst of white peach, kiwi, crunchy green apples, along with cucumber slices, white pepper, all sorts of basil and nettle nuances. The palate sports a gorgeous mouthfeel, deep texture, and racy acidity. Super fun and fresh with flavors of limes, white cherries, yellow pears, and the fruit is mixed wonderfully with notes of rose hips, basil, honeysuckle, all sorts of airy, spring meadow vibes. There’s a deep essence of limestone, river rocks, and minerals throughout. A year round rose that has a lot of depth and complexity. A blend of Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Counoise, Carignan, and Negrette. (92 points)

2021 Troon Vineyard Syrah Estate - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Dark ruby color. Wow, the nose pops with pretty blueberries, tangy black cherries, currant compote, along with enticing amounts of black pepper, clove, violet petals, spicy red pepper, and some tilled soil. Delightful to sniff. Zippy acidity frames this wine well, while the tannins provide a dusty but wonderfully chewy feel, with flavors of plums and tangy blueberries and black cherries. There are a lot of spicy nuances in here to parse through: paprika, black pepper, spicy pepperoni, barbecue sauce, charcoal. I also get notes of violets and minerals. A lot going on here; it’s fun young but would also be interesting with a few years of age on it. (92 points)

Wine Reviews: Selections from California and Oregon

 California’s been on my mind a lot lately. I’ve been following these crazy winter storms from afar, and hoping for the best for you all. I’m also excited to visit soon, and very much looking forward to seeing family and friends in Sonoma, doing some surfing, going on climbing adventures, and visiting some of my favorite wine country.

In anticipation, I’ve had the pleasure of tasting through some lovely California wines recently, and I have some selections this week that keep my love for California wine thriving. There are some real Cabernet-based gems in here, from the likes Napa’s Kelly Fleming and Priest Ranch, and from Sonoma’s Chalk Hill and Hamel Family.

From Oregon, I have some new options from the always inventive, reliably delicious Troon Vineyard. This crew does a whole lot, from Vermentinos to skin contact whites, deep Tannats and spicy Syrahs. But this week I want to highlight their Druid’s Fluid blends, which are really tasty and do a good job representing a cross-section of their different estate grapes.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Kelly Fleming Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $185
A deep, lively purple color. The nose shows a pretty core of plum, tart currant, suave black cherries, with a wrapped-up mix of violets, cocoa, cedar and eucalyptus. The palate has deep texture, structured tannins and vibrant acidity, all balanced very well. Tart black currant and juicy black cherry fruit blends well with stony, earthy, graphite, violets and anise. Time and air coaxes out so many nuances, and the mouthfeel is pristine throughout – very long finish. The crisp, tart appeal is gorgeous. This will age gracefully for many years, and a great example of the vintage. All estate vineyard Cabernet aged 20 months in 85% new French oak. (95 points)

2011 Kelly Fleming Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
Library release
A vibrant purple color. Gorgeous aromas of currants, black cherries, dark plums, a compote of deliciousness, mixed with mint, eucalyptus, clove, some coffee and black pepper. Still so alive, but those secondary nuances are really popping. The palate has structured but suave tannins and crisp acidity, and lots of juicy, tart currants and plum fruit. The accents of dusty earth, smoked meat, mint, some black olive, mushroom and spice rub – it all adds a fascinating and delicious display. The fruit is still so full, but has that tangy, edge from the age and vintage, but it’s holding up really well and has a lot more evolution to go. I’d love to re-taste this in five to seven years to see where the savory tones go and how the tannins and fruit integrate further. (94 points)

2019 Priest Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Snake Oil - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $110
Deep purple. Dark and saucy aromas, blueberries and wild blackberries, laced with gravelly, loamy, stony, earthy vibes, and a mix of eucalyptus, mint and white pepper – wow, really interesting. Deep but crunchy and lively on the palate, grippy tannins but refined edges. Tangy blackberry fruit, laced with a unique blend of these graphite, riverbed stones, tar, iron elements. There’s plenty of anise, clove and coffee in here as well, it’s a bold but nuanced and complex wine that will benefit from many years in the cellar, but it’s also great to drink young, with plenty of air and a big meal. Exceptional 2019 Napa Cab. (95 points)

2018 Chalk Hill Estate Red - USA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $75
Deep purple color. The nose exudes gorgeous plum, fig, black cherries, along with complex tones of tobacco, mint, anise, violets, with leather and graphite and coffee. The palate is full but pretty and nuanced with suave tannins and fresh acidity, sporting tart black currant and juicy black cherry fruit. The nuances in the savory, spicy elements are great, with tobacco, earth, roasted red pepper and dried flowers. Complex and elegant, drinking great now but will have a lot more to show in the next few years. A blend of estate Cabernet Sauvignon (54%), Malbec (34%), Petit Verdot (10%) and Carmenere (2%) aged 21 months in 61% new French oak. Wow, what a stunner for the price. (94 points)

2018 Hamel Family Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Nuns Canyon - USA, California, Sonoma County, Moon Mountain District
SRP: $110
Dark purple color. The nose starts with earthy, smoky, spicy tones and then opens up into a deep, tangy core of mountain blueberries, black currants, with dark floral and coffee tones. The palate is full but really fresh, and the fruit is a juicy, cool mix of blueberries and black cherries, highly delicious. There’s a lot going on, with this mocha/toffee/charcoal vibe playing off the anise/pepper/paprika, and it’s a blast parsing everything out. Deep and dark, this needs some years in the cellar or a decanter and a grilled steak, and will age for so long. Gorgeous stuff. Cabernet Sauvignon with 26% Cab Franc, aged 20 months in 36% new French oak. (94 points IJB)

2021 Troon Vineyard Druid's Fluid White - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. The nose pops with peaches, nectarines and lemon curd, tossed with yellow and white flowers, some sea salt, candlewax – a lot going on. The palate shows a creamy, rich texture but the acidity is so focused and pristine, and the balance is lovely. Lemons, pineapple and orange peel fruit blends well with tones of shaved ginger, crushed shells, honeycomb, and it finishes with this pretty, flinty, mineral and chalky vibe. Complex and beautiful, and a great value. Vermentino, Marsanne and Roussanne. (91 points)

2021 Troon Vineyard Druid's Fluid Red ­ USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Vibrant purple color. The nose has a great mix of spices and seasonings over top of violets, charcoal and juicy red and black plums. The palate shows smooth tannins and a chewy but balanced feel, lively acidity. Juicy cherries, raspberries and plum fruit blends well with a complex mix of herbs and spices (pepper, paprika, oregano) and earthy, soil-y vibes as well. This is a lot of fun with an accessible appeal but the complexity and balance are on point. A delish blend of Tempranillo, Malbec, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

American Wines from Coast to Coast

With Thanksgiving coming up, I wanted to share some American wines I think would fit well with any seasonal fare you and your friends and family may be serving. These represent a drop in the bucket of the diversity in regions, of course, but I’d be stoked to share these wines with my family and friends this week.

I haven’t (yet) made a wine trip to Long Island’s North Fork – but that’s long overdue. I’m a long-time East Coast wine fan, and it’s been awesome to see the growth in regions like Virginia, Maryland, and others since I started paying attention about 15 years ago. Recently, I received a six-pack of wines from Long Island’s North Fork that made me think: I’ve gotta get out there already!

And speaking of Virginia: Early Mountain. I love this place and their wines – just such reliably exciting, delicious, honest Virginia expressions. Their Petit Manseng rocks, and is worth checking out if you don’t have much experience with this grape and worth checking out even more if you do. Their reds offer a lot of juicy, spicy, Virginia goodness as well. And the value in here is really something. Very much worth a visit if you’re ever passing through the region.

Troon shouldn’t be a new name to long-time readers, as I’ve been stoked on this Oregon producer’s wines for years. This biodynamic outfit from Southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley is always experimenting with exciting blends and styles. But two of their classic reds in this report make for great cold weather sipping.

And, of course, California is represented here. FEL delivers again with two delightful Savoy Vineyard wines from Anderson Valley that are a great choice for Pinot and Chard-lovers.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 FEL Chardonnay Savoy Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $52
Medium yellow color. A deep but lively aromatic blend of yellow apples, tart lemons, with nougat and almond, cinnamon crumb cake, and notes of ginger and chalk dust, too. The palate shows crisp acidity and a creamy mouthfeel, with flavors of lemon bars and yellow apples and pears. The complexities in here are exceptional: almond cake, honey, yellow flowers, cinnamon, shaved ginger, with an underlying mineral essence. Gorgeous depth and texture, this should age wonderfully. 13.8% alcohol, this wine is aged 16 months on the lees in 35% new oak. (93 points)

2020 FEL Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $75
Vibrant cherry color. The nose is lovely, with these waves of tangy raspberries, strawberries, with rose petals, clay pot, tobacco, earthy-savory tones, too – there’s a lot to unpack in here. Warm and smooth on the palate with structured tannins and vibrant acidity. Red cherries, tangy strawberries, juicy raspberries, the fruit is laced with tones of floral perfume, pepper, clove, clay and potting soil elements. Suave, silky, crisp, this is ready to drink but will open up nicely over the coming years. 13.9% alcohol, aged 16 months in 24% new French oak. (93 points)

N.V. Sparkling Pointe Brut Nature - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $42
Light gold color. I like the chalky, salty, flinty aromas (really catches the oceanic vibes of Long Island) with some honey and yellow flowers, and lemon and green apple fruit. Juicy yellow apple and lime fruit on the palate, supported with brisk acidity and some nuanced baguette tones. Chalky, spritely and dry, with fresh cut floral stems, dandelion and some spiced white tea. Fun, fresh, delicious blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier from this prolific sparkling wine producer. (88 points)

2020 Peconic Bay Vineyards Riesling - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $28
Bright yellow color. Lovely aromatic display here, with an infusion of juicy peaches and limes, chalk dust and saline, sugar cane, and fresh new tennis balls (in a good way!). Racy acidity frames the palate nicely, balanced sugar throughout, with big chunks of fresh pineapples, drizzled with lime. The chalk dust, crushed sea shells and minerals linger long on the finish. Racy, refreshing and tasty. (90 points)

2021 Lieb Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Bridge Lane - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $16
Medium straw color. Bright and floral on the nose, with tangy limes and juicy white peaches, topped in white flowers, mint and celery seed tones. Zippy, crisp and floral on the nose, with some pleasant creaminess and flavors of white peaches, pineapple and limes. Flinty, chalky tones, with a creamy but vibrant finish. Fun, fresh, a lot of personality for the price here. Really solid value. (87 points)

2021 Macari Vineyards Horses - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $29
Bright fizzy raspberry color. Spritely and tangy on the palate, with crunchy red apples, wild raspberries, with notes of white pepper, rose hips and bay leaf. Dusty texture, very zesty, this has a crunchy feel with tangy red apples and cranberry fruit. Fun and fresh with some cool spicy, herbal tones. A fun accompaniment to a wide variety of foods for sure. A crown cap Cabernet Franc sparkler, destemmed, it spends two days on the skins and is disgorged after five months. (88 points)

2019 Pellegrini Vineyards Chardonnay Stainless Steel - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $23
Pale lemon color. A tangy and brisk style on the nose with lemons and green apples, lemon verbena, seashells, some dandelion and daisy tones. Floral and tangy on the palate with citrus and green apple fruits on a crunchy, vibrant frame. Flinty, oceanic goodness abounds in this seafood-friendly style Chardonnay. (88 points)

2019 Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard Pink Satin - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $34
Pale salmon color. Nose pops with white cherries and strawberries, along with notes of honeysuckle, mint and orange blossom. Crisp acidity, moderate but balanced sugar adds some creaminess and sweetness, but it stays refreshing. Notes of tangy strawberries and juicy cherries, with some nice tea, white pepper and floral perfume tones. A nice salty kick on the finish as well. Melot, Cab Franc and Cab Sauv. (86 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Syrah - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Dark purple color. The nose kicks off with a great burst of smoky, beefy, peppery goodness, with roasted red pepper and mesquite, grille steak, over tangy blueberries and black cherry fruit. The palate shows nice grip with smooth tannic edges and delightfully fresh acidity and tangy plums, blueberries and black cherry fruit. The complex notes of roasted red pepper, soy, glazed mushrooms, gravelly earth and clove. Age-worthy but fresh, this has a lot of deliciousness and savory goodness packed in here, especially for the price. (92 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Tannat - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. The nose of tart black currants and blackberries is great, laced with complexities of smashed rocks, anise, tar, pencil shavings, dried violet petals. The palate is grippy but suave with tangy acidity and a nice core of tar blueberries and currants. Elements of smoky earth, charcoal, anise, coffee grounds and violets add complexity. The notes of savory broth and mushroom need years to unravel, and this will age gloriously for quite some time. Deep, tangy, balanced, spicy – a ton to love. (92 points)

2020 Early Mountain Vineyards Petit Manseng - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $30
Rich gold color. The nose bursts with personality, showing deep apricot, orange marmalade, candied lemon peel, with notes of honey, graham cracker, white flowers, mint leaves and some salty tones. The palate shows classic Petit Manseng vibes with racy acidity, lip-smacking goodness, and rich, waxy texture, and the balance is just lovely. Nuanced throughout, with a complex mix of honey, hay, almond, yellow flowers. Exciting, delicious stuff that I’d love to taste in three to five years. Includes 4% Pinot Gris and 3% Chardonnay. (90 points)

2021 Early Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Franc Shenandoah Valley - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $30
Medium ruby color. Loving the spicy aromatic kick here, with rose hips, black and white pepper, forest floor, along with a display of fresh raspberries, red apple and black cherry fruit. The palate is so fresh but deeply textured, with dusty tannins and a bright core of black cherries and wild raspberries. Lovely earthy tones, red clay, and notes of sage, white pepper, some black olive. Delightfully fresh appeal but a lot of complexity and depth as well. This should age nicely for a few years. If you haven’t tried Shenandoah Cab Franc, this is a great intro and value. (91 points)

2021 Early Mountain Vineyards Foothills - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $27
Deep ruby color. Inviting and juicy on the nose, with raspberries, red plums, topped in hefty amounts of roses, pepper, violets, leather and clove. The palate is silky and zippy with tangy red and black cherry fruit, juicy strawberries, the fruit is just delish. Notes of sage, rose petals, mint, spiced tea, it adds a lovely autumnal complexity. So darn fun. A fascinating blend of 28% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Petit Verdot, 8% Tanat, 8% Petit Manseng and 5% Cabernet Franc. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Summertime Selections

Here in the U.S. Mid-Atlantic, summer is in full swing. Heat, humidity, summer travel and traffic on the way – I know a lot of people love this season, but I am missing the cooler days already!

And as much as I love some Napa Cabs and burly Southern Rhone wines, I’m not going to be opening one any time soon. I need some crisp whites, interesting rosés, maybe some orange wines and crushable reds.

In recent weeks I’ve received a wide spectrum of wines that would fit this bill. I’ve parsed through some of them and curated this selection of summer-friendly wines. From Grieve and Gamble, Napa Sauvignon Blancs deliver, and I have some cool wines from Germany as well.

Stinson Vineyards is one of Virginia’s most reliable producers for me, and they come through again with the new vintage of their Tannat pink. But what really wowed me was their Meritage Blanc, something I didn’t know was coming and took me by surprise with its beautiful interpretation of a Semillon/Sauv Blanc blend. Oregon’s Troon Vineyard always puts out interesting wines in a lot of styles, and the three offerings from this biodynamic producer are great examples.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Rosé wines

2021 Bouchaine Vin Gris of Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $29
Pale salmon color. So perfumed and inviting on the nose with bright McIntosh apples and strawberry fruit, mixing with elements of talc, white tea, honeysuckle and mint. The palate boasts a delightfully creamy texture and lip-smacking acidity with flavors of white cherries, white peach and lemon. The finish has notes of sliced cucumbers, celery seed and chalky elements. Zesty but complex and deep as well, a delightful pink that is 85% whole cluster pressed, 15% saignée. (90 points)

2021 Bodegas Beronia Tempranillo Rioja Rosado – Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $13
Light pink color. Light and bright on the nose with lots of honeysuckle and dandelion over top of white peaches, lemons and raspberries. Crisp, breezy and springy on the palate with white peach and wild raspberry fruits. Notes of cucumber, freshly cut flower stems, some dusty, mineral-y vibes throughout. 50/50 blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha. Widely available, solid value, what’s not to love? (88 points)

2021 Fleurs de Prairie Rosé – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc
SRP: $20
Pale salmon. Peaches and cream on the nose with some honey, this is a chunky, yummy rose with floral perfume and white tea. Creamy and chunky on the palate but nice acidity, this is full of raspberries and strawberries and mixed with some chalk, dried flowers and dandelion. Juicy, fresh and pleasant, this is crowd-pleasing, fun stuff. Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault and Mourvedre. (87 points)

2021 Gamble Family Vineyards Rosé – USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
SRP: $26
Bright pink color. The nose pops with a orange peel and raspberries, topped in honeysuckle, magnolia petal, some mint and breezy, spring field vibes. Crisp acidity, sports a honeyed depth of texture with bright citrus and juicy rubus fruits, some McIntosh apples. Floral perfume, chalk dust, whipped honey, shows richness but stays really vibrant. Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon base with Cab Franc Merlot and Petit Verdot. (90 points)

2020 Josh Cellars Rosé – USA, California
SRP: $15
Medium copper color. Smells of strawberries and red delicious apples with notes of nettle and fresh cut grass. Lively but creamy with white peach and strawberry fruit, drizzled with lemon. Honeyed and pleasant with some notes of dandelion, lily, orange blossom. Some slight green herb tones as well. Fun, crowd-pleasing, value-driven stuff. (86 points)

2021 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Rosé – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Gorgeous light peach color. A crunchy and spicy aromatic display with kiwi and white cherry, along with chalk dust, sliced cucumber, celery seed and honeysuckle. Crisp and punchy on the palate with a delightful richness, matched with precise acidity. The fruit is a mix of juicy white peaches and wild raspberries, and I get notes of clover, thistle flower, celery seed and white flowers. Very pretty, the mouthfeel is gorgeous, and the level of complexity and focus is really something. A stellar pink made from Tinta Roriz, Malbec and Counoise. (92 points)

2021 Stinson Vineyards Tannat Rosé – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $23
Pretty light salmon color. The nose is bright and juicy with white cherries, raspberries and red apple peel, tossed with a cool blend of spicy white pepper, fresh basil and some crushed chalk. The palate is crisp but deeply textured and the balance is delightful. Crunchy red apple peel and ripe raspberry fruit mix well with these basil, rose petal, magnolia and white pepper elements. Lively and pure with racy minerals on the finish, this fresh and complex rose delivers, year after year. From Horton Vineyards’ fruit, this is a great value. (91 points)

White wines

2019 Weingut A Diehl Chardonnay Sekt – Germany, Pfalz
SRP: $25
Medium gold color. The nose has a nice mix of bright citrus fruits and saline tossed with hay, almond and honey. The palate has some nice texture, but brisk acidity, and it boasts this talc/mineral undertone. Lemon and yellow apple with some cracker crumbs and crushed oyster shells. Bright and nervy and fun. Chardonnay. (89 points)

2021 Gamble Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Gamble Vineyard – USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
SRP: $35
Pale straw color. The nose shows a gorgeous blend of gooseberry, white peach and guava nectar, along with honey, white flowers, some notes of dill and dandelion. Racy acidity, creamy texture, balanced well with a tropical mélange of white peach, guava and lemon juice. Some waxy, honeyed tones mix well with floral elements and this flinty, stony, mineral-packed appeal. Refreshing and nervy with a lot of depth, this would be interesting to see how it ages for a few years as well. Fermented on the lees for six months in stainless steel and a mix of new and used French oak. (91 points)

2019 Grieve Family Winery Sauvignon Blanc – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $98
Light yellow color. A rich, inviting nose of papaya, iwi and mango, tossed with honey, white pepper, ramp leaves and chalk dust. The palate shows a pleasantly creamy texture with racy acidity and rushing mineral presences. The lime and papaya fruit is glazed with honey, white pepper and a tantalizing mix of chalk dust, saline and limestone. From the family’s Lovall Valley site, this is a special and unique Napa Sauv Blanc. Aged 16 months in 60% new French oak. (91 points)

2020 Stinson Vineyards Meritage Blanc – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $31
Medium yellow color. Gorgeous aromas of pineapple and lemon, with this refreshing, briny, chalky tones, balanced with honey and raw almond. The palate has a rich, creamy texture with vibrant acidity and lovely balance. The lemon, yellow apple, honeydew fruit, it’s all so fresh and focused, and the hay, honey, chamomile and peanut shell notes add a lot of complexity. This has such a level of verve, balance and focus – a really special Virginia white wine. Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, aged 16 months in 15% new French oak. This should age nicely, too, and would be a great ringer in a Bordeaux Blanc tasting or a “Wow”-inducing wine for Virginia newbs. (92 points)

Other goodies

2021 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Amber – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Light orange/copper color. A fascinating mix of honey, whipped butter, dried flowers, over top of candied orange peel, dried pineapple and some quince. Deep, waxy texture on the palate with gorgeous acidity and complex minerals. Orange blossoms, honeycomb, dried flowers, with these flinty, stony, mountain stream vibes. A lot going on here, this orange wine is up there with the most “accessible” I’ve tasted, but it’s still got that complexity and fascinating texture. A blend of Vermentino, Riesling and Roussanne, fermented on the skins separately in open-top vessels with 30% whole-cluster. (91 points)

2021 Troon Vineyard Grenache Glou-Glou Cowhorn Vineyard – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $30
Bright/light purple color. The nose is lovely and fresh with rhubarb, rose petals and pepper over top of juicy raspberries and cherries, with some tar and charcoal elements. The palate is dusty and fresh with a crunchy, fresh vibe, and flavors of cherries and raspberries. Dusty tannins and brisk acidity, with tones of violets, white pepper, charcoal and rose hips. Fun and lively but a lot of complexity as well. All whole-cluster Grenache fermented in stainless steel with two weeks of carbonic maceration. (90 points)

N.V. Jan Matthias Klein Pinot Noir Little Red Riding Wolf – Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
SRP: $33
Bright raspberry color. Natty but fun on the nose with tangy raspberries, red apple peel, with spicy pepper and paprika. The palate is zesty with light, chalky tannins and crunchy red fruits. Brisk cherries and raspberries mix with pepper, oregano, some tobacco, and there’s this mineral-limestone essence underneath as well. Clean and fresh, natty-lovers and those wary of the wild stuff should both appreciate this. A fun, fresh and spicy German Pinot Noir. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Digging Into Oregon's Applegate Valley

The Applegate Valley in Southern Oregon seems like a wonderful place. A traditional orchard fruit growing zone with a long winemaking history, this area received its American Viticultural Area designation (AVA) in 2000, and it is a sub-appellation within the Rogue Valley. Today there are some 700 acres under vine, and the area’s climate provides warn sunny days and cold nights. The Kubli Bench zone offers diverse, well-drained soils. And the winemakers that call this place home seem set on creating unique, pure wines.

I’ve been tasting (and really enjoying) wines from Troon Vineyard since 2017, and their wines continue to impress. This producer is always trying new things, new blends, new styles, and evolving with the times while staying true to their biodynamic farming and winemaking style. The amphorae-aged offerings in this report show how they continue to seek out exciting wines for a new generation of consumers.

Schmidt Family Vineyards is a neighbor of Troon’s, and this is my first foray into their wines. Owned by Cal and Judy Schmidt, this Kubli Bench winery planted its first estate vines in 2001, and their first vintage was 2004. They’ve since grown to about 5,500 cases per year, and boast a nice mix of varietals. I was excited to review a diverse lineup of their wines, and found a lot of personality and value from this producer.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Amphora Rolle - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $60
Light yellow color. The nose is salty and chalky and bright with tones of lemon and quince, green apples, with some wild, spicy elements and celery seed. The palate sports creamy texture, lovely depth, but prickly acidity, and the balance is focused and on-point. Perfumed and spicy tones mix well with the peach, lemon and green apple fruit. There’s almost an austerity here, a bit of Mezcal-esque feel, but it’s also so deeply textured and bold, everything is working really well. Exciting, fun stuff, it offers deliciousness but a ton to ponder as well. Foot-trodden, natural yeasts, aged in amphorae – this is a special wine, an homage to Corsica, and another example of Troon’s endless spirit of adventure. (92 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Amphora Amber - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $60
Pale copper color. Beautiful nose of zesty lemons, green apples and papaya, along with chalk dust, white flowers, green olives, some talc. The palate is precise and deeply textured, with bright lemons and green apple flavors. The notes of quinine, talc and crushed limestone add all sorts of complexity. Notes of wildflowers, wild green herbs and green olives add a lot to contemplate. For the fans of zippy and adventurous wines, but this is also highly delicious and crushable. Well done, Troon. Skin-fermented Vermentino aged in amphorae for 11 months. (92 points)

2020 Schmidt Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $16
Pale lemon color. The nose is vibrant and zesty, with lemons and white peaches, along with honeysuckle, celery seed and saline tones. The palate is crisp and nervy with bright acidity and juicy white peach fruit, laced with lemons and limes. Notes of perfume, sea salt, celery seed, along with mint and sliced green bell pepper. Lovely style, fun and bright but shows solid complexity. Wow, lots of value. Six months in stainless steel. (88 points)

2018 Schmidt Family Vineyards Albariño - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $16
Pale lemon color. Peachy keen on the nose with lemons and yellow apples, along with honey and white flowers. Creamy yet zippy on the palate with peaches, yellow apples and lime zest, along with white flowers, sea salt and some fresh oregano tones. Lovely balance and brightness, surprisingly focused and clear. A lot to enjoy in here. Six months in stainless steel. (89 points)

2018 Schmidt Family Vineyards Pinot Noir - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $20
Deep ruby color. Juicy raspberries and strawberries on the nose, with rose petals, white pepper and rhubarb, with some tobacco tones. Fresh acidity and chewy tannins along with smooth, vibrant black cherries and spiced cranberry relish flavors. I enjoy the clay, roasted red pepper and savory, brothy tones herein, and it’s woven in well to this spicy, fun, vibrant appeal. A $20 Pinot that has this kind of “real” feel? Good luck finding one from California. 23 months in barrel, 10% new. (89 points)

2017 Schmidt Family Vineyards Merlot - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $20
Deep ruby color. The nose shows an interesting mix of smoky, meaty, beefy, peppery tones, over top of stewed cherries and cranberry sauce. Medium-bodied, smooth tannins, lively acidity, with cherries and plums, nicely balanced. Fun but complex with peppery, earthy, clay tones – a lot of right bank vibes here, and solid value. Aged 23 months in barrel, 20% new. (90 points)

2016 Schmidt Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon ­- USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. I get saucy plums and sweet blueberries on the nose, along with barbecue sauce, pepper, tobacco, violet petals and mint – a lot to unpack. Fresh acidity keeps it all together, softened tannins but still structured well. Nicely-aged fruit, a compote of blueberries and black cherries, still lively, with a complex mix of mesquite, pine, tobacco and savory, spicy elements. Decant this one, lots of sediment, but this is really interesting and has a lot of personality. 13.7% alcohol, 23 months in 30% new French oak. (88 points)

2016 Schmidt Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $20
Vibrant purple color. Smells of tangy blueberries and tart black cherries, a deep core of tangy fruit, aced with violet petals, tobacco, anise and black pepper. Such vibrant acidity, deep, structured tannins, lovely balance. Tart blueberries and black cherries, the fruit is so lively, and mixed well with tones of warm clay, tar, tilled soil, black pepper and clove. This is really unique and seems like it will age wonderfully for quite a while. Such a pretty, spicy Tempranillo, aged 23 months in 25% new French oak. (90 points)

Oregon's Troon Just Keeps on Rockin'

Longtime readers may have seen me praise Oregon’s Troon Vineyard in the past. Well, here I am again to do it again.

I can’t help it – Troon just keeps putting out exciting wines. From old classics to an array of newer blends and styles in recent years, their across-the-board consistency has been pretty amazing. Based in the Applegate Valley of southern Oregon, Troon puts out are biodynamic wines with native yeasts and a fresh, spicy but focused appeal.

If your palate tends more toward the leaner side of the Syrah spectrum, and you’re happy with roasted, savory, spicy flavors, this trio of Troon Syrahs is definitely worth checking out. “Syrah may be the ideal variety for our site,” says winegrower Craig Camp. After tasting a lot of these wines over the years, it’s a convincing argument. These three wines offer a good view of their approach to this grape overall, and it was a joy tasting them together and parsing through the nuances. All three of them were aged 20 months in mature French oak.

The Druid’s Fluid wines are based on the traditional blends of the Cotes du Rhone, and deliver just what you’d hope for from their French counterparts: delicious fruit, some spicy accents, and lots of value. The Cotes du Kubli wines are blends from Troon’s Cowhorn Vineyard, and are called such because they’re sourced from the hills around the Kubli Bench, a plateau above the Applegate River. They’re consistently reliable and delicious expressions of Troon’s style.

And, while label aesthetics doesn’t affect what’s in the bottle, it still matters. And Troon has been revamping their design in different ways lately, and I think it’s paying off. From the flowy symbol design of the Druid’s Fluid to the detailed guidebook style drawings of their biodynamic preparations, the bottles really draw my attention. And then the juice itself overdelivers.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted, except for the three Syrahs, which I tasted single-blind.

2020 Troon Vineyard Druid’s Fluid White – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. The nose sports this salty, floral, citrus-popping appeal with lemon, orange, peach, with some chalky, flinty tones. The palate has this crisp, nervy, salty vibe, which works well with the lemon, orange peel and kiwi fruit. The floral and herbal complexity is really something, with this minty, celery seed, saline, honeysuckle tones and this pervasive sense of mountain stream freshness and mineral nerviness. So fun, so good. (90 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Druid’s Fluid Red – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Deep ruby color. Gamay-esque goodness on the nose, so floral and accessible, gushing with strawberries and cherries, along with rose petals, potting soil, clay and potpourri tones. Zesty and brisk acidity, with dusty tannins and a bright feel. Juicy strawberries, cherries and raspberries, laced with deep violets, sage, some pepper and light roast coffee. This wine is all about the mouthfeel and vibe, which is fresh, inviting and delightful. (90 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Côtes du Kubli Blanc – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. The nose shows deep, fascinating scents of orange marmalade, lemon curd, with notes of whipped honey, nougat and sea salt. Deep texture with gorgeous honeyed mouthfeel and moderate acidity. Orange and lemon peel, yellow apple and pineapple fruit, juicy but fresh and focused. Notes of seashells, raw almond, hay, honey. A rich wine but crystal clear and so fresh. Seems like a few years of age could do some good. 55% Roussanne, 25% Marsanne, 20% Viognier, only 12.6% alcohol. (92 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Cotes du Kubli Rouge – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Vibrant purple color. Wow, so fresh on the nose with this chilled raspberry, cherry and strawberry fruit, along with these airy tones of flowers and crushed chalk, and spicier tones of pepper and mulling spices. Zesty and dusty on the palate with crisp acidity and a focused appeal. The red cherries, cranberry and raspberry fruit is lively and crisp, and mixed well with black pepper, violets, and complex leather and beefy tones. Wow this is gorgeous stuff. Unique, airy, lifted, yet deep and complex. 84% Syrah, 16% Grenache, 12.7% alcohol. (93 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Syrah Estate – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Deep ruby color. Ooh, so inviting on the nose with raspberries, strawberries and blueberries, mixed with violets, and a lot of spice (paprika, pepper, curry powder, bay leaf – so good). Crisp acidity, nicely structured with medium tannins and a deep but bright fruit profile (blueberry, strawberry and raspberry). The wine has this gorgeous floral, earthy, spicy appeal, with pepper, curry powder, a potpourri of dried wildflowers and clove. Pretty and alive with a mineral-laden finish. Could use at least a few years to show it’s best, but so delightful young, too. (91 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Syrah Siskiyou – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $50
Beautiful ruby color. Freshness rules the aromas, with juicy cherries and strawberry tones, along with fascinating mix of pepper, pine tar, charcoal, violets and clove. On the palate, this shows crisp acidity and tannins that show a fine dusty grip. Delicious cherries and raspberries are mixed really well with elements of pepper, sage, warm clay, deep earth. Nuances of clove, tobacco and mineral round out the finish. It maintains this gravelly depth throughout – really delightful. From a cooler vineyard, named for the surrounding Siskiyou Mountains. (93 points IJB)

2019 Troon Vineyard Syrah Cowhorn Vineyard – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $50
Deep ruby color. On the nose, a nice kick of black pepper and roasted red pepper over top of the bright plum and juicy cherry fruit. Nice concentration on the palate with a moderate tannic backbone and bright acidity, which sets the stage for beautiful dark cherry and plum fruit. The savory depth is really something, with a host of pepper, braised meats, pepperoni, gravelly and loamy earth. An age-worthy wine but also so inviting and fresh, there’s a lot going on here. Fruit sourced from a cooler site, this is a fascinating Syrah that will age wonderfully for who knows how long. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

American Wines for the Fourth of July

Happy Fourth of July to all the American readers out there. As has grown to be my custom, I take this time to highlight some recent American wines that came across the sample pile. And I have a fun, diverse group today.

I’ve long been a fan (and something of an evangelist) for Arizona wines. I can’t help myself, I love it out there, and there are some really cool people making really fun wines. Aridus, based in one of my favorite areas of Cochise County, is a good intro into AZ wines, and are more widely available than most.

From Oregon, Applegate Valley’s biodynamic stalwart Troon Vineyards delivers three summery, spritzy, crushable wines. They’re always experimenting, and I respect that.

And, of course, California wines make appearances. Ashes & Diamonds 2020 pink is about as complex and impressive a California rosé I’ve come across in a long time. A case buy kind of wine. Howell Mountain Cabernet comes out to show why this appellation is so excellent, and a few other legit Cab-based wines round out the mix.

Lastly, from Virginia, Monticello-based producer Stinson continues to deliver with their Tannat-based pink, and a Merlot and Meritage definitely worth checking out if you’re interested in Virginia wines.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Oregon's Troon Continues to Impress

I’ve had the pleasure of following Oregon’s Troon Vineyard since 2017, when I first tasted their wines. Since then, the hits just keep coming.

Troon is a biodynamic producer from Oregon’s Applegate Valley, an area in the south of the state that boast diverse geology, warm days, cool nights, and some exciting wineries. Troon, in my opinion, of course, has been consistently slinging out focused, unique wines from a large mix of grape varieties. Over the years, they’ve experimented with different styles, blends, adding things like Pet-Nat and Piquette to the mix, but also focusing on deep, juicy reds made from grapes like Tannat.

I recently tasted four of their releases from 2020, and I’m excited to share them. These wines sport new labels this year, tastefully designed and incorporating images of their biodynamic preparations. (I only point this out because, well, like record album artwork, I think labels matter — and this aesthetic is really working.)

Their Kubli Bench line is composed of really interesting blends, two of which are featured in this week’s report. There’s a delicious Vermentino (definitely a specialty of the winery) and a new, Beaujolais-inspired Grenache that is perfect for warmer weather.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Troon Vineyard Vermentino – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Such a fresh, inviting, floral, airy wine, like a spring field of all sorts of flowers, with white tea over top of generous peach and zesty lime. Punchy texture, vibrant acidity, this is a zesty and focused wine with yellow plums, white peach and cantaloupe fruit, drizzled with lime. The honey, clean laundry and floral perfume tones add complexity. Texturally, the depth of this wine is fantastic, too. Fermented in old French oak, aged on the lees for five months. (91 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Rosé – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Pale, pale pink color. So fresh and bright on the nose, like a spring field of buttercups, dandelion and clover over top of McIntosh apple, white cherry and peach skin, with some chalk and basil tones, too. Gorgeous texture on the palate, has nice richness but is really zesty and focused at the same time. Peaches, white cherries and honeydew melon fruit blend with perfume, chalky, crusty sea salt tones. Notes of clover, honey, minerals and shells add all sorts of complexity. Exciting, deep but also gluggable as can be. Really well done blend of Primitivo and Tinta Roriz. Fermented in old French oak, 11.7% alcohol. (92 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Amber – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Gorgeous honey, light orange color. Bright aromas that just pop: limes, lemon and kumquat, followed up by clover, candied lemon, sea salt, this is just a spritzy, fun-smelling wine. Medium-bodied with bright acidity, and the texture is really fascinating, waxy but never heavy, and the balance is lovely. Chunks of lemon, pineapple and green melon fruit bounce off these flinty, mineral, chalky elements, and there’s some white tea and hints of tobacco as well. Just a lot to unpack. Don’t worry, this is not a feral orange wine, but a pretty, focused and fresh blend of Riesling, Vermentino and Viognier that spends three weeks on the skins. Well, done, Troon! (92 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Grenache Glou-Glou Cowhorn Vineyard – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Bright purple color. Juicy and inviting on the nose with strawberries and fresh plums, roses, red licorice – just a ton of fun to sniff. Zesty acidity and light tannins frame the wine nicely, and the raspberry and strawberry fruit is bright and delicious. Notes of rose petals, wildflowers, and mild spicy tones add some complexity, too. Stainless steel, carbonic maceration, this is crushable but complex, easy-drinking but sporting impressive depth as well. This is Troon’s first take on this wine, and I look forward to what they’re going to do with it in the future. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.