Copain's Syrahs are Aging Wonderfully

Copain was one of the first California producers I really geeked out on. My first taste was a 2006 Syrah from the famed Brosseau Vineyard, which I tasted in 2009, and I was sold immediately. I bought a case of aged Syrahs (2003-2006) from a friend soon after, and I was blown away by how well these wines were aging. The fruit lasted long, but the non-fruit complexity (in the form of olive brine, black pepper, carnitas, bacon fat) really spoke to my palate. 

I visited the Sonoma winery a few times since, and have bought up Copain wines wherever I find them. Wells Guthrie is the man behind Copain, who founded the winery in 1999. After studying with world-famous Rhone winemaker Michel Chapoutier in 1996, Wells decided to chase his love of Rhone wines in California. He describes himself as a “California winemaker with a European sensibility,” and I think that holds up in his wines. 

While single-vineyard Syrah is what drew me in (and that’s still a huge part of Copain’s vision), Wells crafts some stellar wines from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Trousseau as well. In 2016, California heavyweight Jackson Family purchased Copain for an undisclosed sum, a purchase that included the winery and tasting room as well. Wells stuck around, however, and Jackson Family stated their intention of maintaining the style of the brand. While I’ve only tasted a few wines made since the sale, that seems to be the case. 

I gathered a few Copain-loving friends recently and decided to open older bottles to see how they were holding up. Not a bad wine in the lot, but there were definitely some stunners. It’s great to see a winery I fell for almost a decade ago still going strong. 

My notes on the wines I tasted are below. 

2010 Copain Chardonnay Brosseau Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Chalone

Wow, this is exceptional and surprising. Such lively aromas, no hints of oxidation or exhaustion here at all, just lemon curd and crushed limestone. Precise acidity through and though, yet the plush texture is awesome. Minerals and flowers and honeycomb accentuate the juicy lemon and yellow pear fruit. Wow, still going strong, and a wonderful showing. This comes from a fascinating site at 1,600 feet in the Chalone appellation with rare combo of limestone and granite soils. (93 points)

2003 Copain Syrah Cailloux & Coccinelle - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley
Whoa, so smoky and bacony on the nose, and some menthol and mint elements, on top of saucy blueberries. Some volatile acidity on the palate, but not a lot, and its woven in well, and the tannins are quite soft. Tangy blueberries and blackberries, fruit still going, but the wine is just packed with olives and black peppercorns and bacon fat. Loving the smooth, savory aspects in this wine, but definitely at the end of its run. Still lovely, though! (93 points) 

2003 Copain Syrah Eaglepoint Ranch - California, North Coast, Mendocino County
Aromas of blackberries, tart cherries, a lots of smoke and meat. Crisp acidity on the palate, plump texture and the blackberry fruit is still going. Notes of violets, smoke, olive brine, pepper, beef broth and roasted red pepper. Nice and tangy with a peppery finish. Still going! From a vineyard 1,800 feet above Ukiah Valley in Mendocino County. (92 points) 

2007 Copain Syrah Eaglepoint Ranch - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

Darker than the 2003 and more concentrated. Lots of blueberries, plum cake, loaded with violets and black pepper. Silky smooth, still structured though with some dusty tannins. Black cherry and blueberry fruit is alive and kicking, and I love the smoke, olive tapenade, gravelly earth and violet petal elements going on here. This really is a pretty Syrah in a beautiful place. (93 points)   

2005 Copain Syrah Madder Lake - California, North Coast, Lake County
Dark and plummy on the nose with violets and black olives. Surprising grip on the tannins, this is quite dense actually, but some fresh acidity. Black currants and rich black cherries, quite “purple” in its approach. Floral as well with potting soil and violets. One of the wines that needs more time, which I found surprising and interesting. A Lake County vineyard, in red volcanic soils, above the beautiful Clear Lake in Southern Lake County. (90 points) 

2006 Copain Syrah Hawks Butte Vineyard - California, North Coast, Yorkville Highlands
Dark and fruity nose with rich plums and blackberries and a spicy/smoky element. Rich but bright on the palate with structured tannins, bright acidity, and I get a lot of tart currant and plum fruit. Charcoal, smoky bacon, roasted red pepper, coffee grounds, rich earth. On Day 2, this got even more expressive. Still time ahead, but this is very impressive. More put-together and prettier than a bottle of this I had in 2016. Lucky me! This site, north of Yorkville, is full of rocky soils and vines planted in a series of benches and hillsides at the base of Hawks Butte. (92 points) 

2009 Copain Syrah Brosseau Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Chalone
My wine of the night – just a stunner. Dark purple color and lots of rich but tangy black and blue fruit on the nose, along with a deep sense of violets and scorched earth. Fleshy and plump on the palate but structured tannins and refreshing acidity. Blackberry and blueberry fruit, laced with smoke, violets, anise, black pepper, and a pervasive sense of minerals and iron. Gorgeous stuff that has years to go. (94 points) 

2009 Copain Syrah James Berry Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
This was surprisingly closed down (compared to the others). Good stuff inside for sure, it just stayed tight the whole night, even Day 2 it wasn’t as expressive. Gobs of dark fruit on the nose. Structured tannins provide lots of grip, medium acidity. Dense black fruit, iron, smoke, graphite, pepper and violets. Young still, I’d let this sit for three or four years. Damn, Wells’ wine age for quite a while. Iconic Paso Robles vineyard, 10 miles from the ocean, clay over ancient seabed soils. (90 points)

Washington State Gramercy Cellars' Wines Are Aging Gracefully

I’m lucky enough to have tasted a bunch of wines from Gramercy Cellars over the years. Several wine friends of mine had jumped on this Washington State winery bandwagon early, and I benefitted from their generosity and desire to share this exciting producer’s wines with me. I’ve never had a Gramercy wine that did not thrill me, but I’ve also found a common thread when tasting these wines. I always say something like: “This is delicious but it needs more time.”

Recently, I had the pleasure of tasting some Gramercy Cellars wine with some age on them, and the wines all showed wonderfully. For those of you who don’t know the story, Gramercy Cellars was founded in 2005 by Master Somm Greg Harrington and his wife, Pam. Greg, who also makes the wines, knows his stuff. He passed his Master Sommelier exam at the age of 26, and worked in wine programs for chefs like Joyce Goldstein, Emeril Lagasse and Wolfgang Puck. 

They focus on Bordeaux and Rhone varieties, sourced from some amazing sites in Washington State’s Columbia Valley. With an annual production of about 8,000 cases, the winery sports an Old World-inspired style, with lower alcohol, less overt oak influences, and more focus on earthy/savory aspects. 

I tasted through four Gramercy wines with some good friends and barbecue, and came away with a renewed respect for just how delicious these wines are, and how gracefully they age. Notes below…


2007 Gramercy Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley
What a beauty. The fruit is still so boisterous (black cherry, raspberry, juicy plums) but the nose shows all these leather, pepper, herb and spice elements as well. Tannins still going strong but they’re also smooth and velvety and the acidity maintains a tart edge. Pretty currant and plum fruits laced with black pepper, leather, cedar, coffee and stony minerals. Lovely stuff – of course, the last sip at the end of the night was the best. Long time ahead still. (93 points) 

2008 Gramercy Cellars Syrah Lagniappe - Washington, Columbia Valley
Aromas of rich black cherries along with a lot of pepper, leathery, animal hide and beef drippings. Spicy and rich fruit on the palate, tannins provide plenty of structure, medium acidity, the fruit is still going strong but I love the peppery, smoky, olive notes in this wine. (92 points) 

2009 Gramercy Cellars Syrah Lagniappe - Washington, Columbia Valley
Really interesting to taste after the 08. This one shows so much more freshness and vibrancy on the nose with juicy cherries and lots of floral and spice notes. Fresh and bright on the palate but serious grip to the tannins, this is balanced and structured so well. Black cherries and plums laced with pepper, campfire smoke and black olive. Long time ahead still. Lovely. (92 points)

2009 Gramercy Cellars L'idiot du Village - Washington, Columbia Valley
Loved this wine. Tons of aromatic complexity in terms of black cherries, plums, tons of peppered steak and meat drippings. Rich, bold, dry but fresh. Black fruit is rich but tangy and laced with complex leather, pepper, soy and loamy earth. Lovely stuff with plenty of years of cellar potential left. (92 points)

Bold Reds from Walla Walla Valley Producer Cadaretta

When it comes to thrilling red blends, Washington’s Walla Walla Valley seems practically inexhaustible. One producer that has popped up on my radar over the years is Cadaretta, whose rich but suave wines I’ve enjoyed and reviewed in the past.

Cadaretta is owned by the Middleton family and their Anderson & Middleton Company, which began in the timber business near the turn of the 20^th Century, before expanding into table grapes and, eventually, wine.

Their estate Southwind Vineyard is home to some 60 acres of grapes, with future plantings planned. The wines are made by Kendall Mix, who studied enology and viticulture at UC Davis and has worked at Robert Mondavi, R.H. Phillips. Kendall also spent 10 years making red wines for Washington wine heavyweight Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Canoe Ridge Estate, among other jobs.

These are dark and saucy red wines with a good amount of new oak evident, but they show a lot of complex non-fruit elements and some serious potential for cellaring. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2014 Cadaretta Syrah - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley

SRP: $35

Light purple color. Nose of dark plums, blueberries black cherries, cracked pepper, leather and loam. Full but silky with rounded tannins and moderate acidity. Rich fruit but shows a tart edge, plum, currant, blueberry, and the fruit is laced with notes of dark roast coffee, eucalyptus, cedar, leather, violets. A lot going on here. Good now but should do nicely with 2-4 years. Aged 21 months in 60% new French oak. (89 points)

2014 Cadaretta Southwind - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley

SRP: $75

Bold purple color. Nose shows rich plums, blackberries, fig paste, charcoal, sweet violets and clove. Rich, chewy but deep and earthy, suave tannins and medium/low acidity. Rich waves of plums and blackberries laced with violets, sage, bay leaf, clove, cocoa powder. Complex, deep, delicious now but could improve for five years and then some. 37% Malbec, 37% Petit Verdot, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 23 months in 60% new French oak, 14.6% alcohol. (91 points)

2013 Cadaretta Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley

SRP: $45

Rich purple color. Aromas of juicy black currants and blackberries, with mocha, topsoil, cedar, anise and charcoal. Full and dark on the palate with some solid grip from the tannins, medium acidity. Rich but tangy black and blue fruits, with lots of charcoal, loamy soil, smashed rocks, anise, eucalyptus, dark chocolate shavings. Solid, bold wine that could age for at least a few years but it is delicious now. 9% Petit Verdot, 6% Merlot, 5% Malbec, aged 22 months in mostly French oak. (89 points)

2014 Cadaretta Springboard - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley

SRP: $50

Light purple color. Inky but tart aromas of black and red plums, roses, violets, loam, tobacco and eucalyptus. Medium/full-bodied with velvety but strong tannins, rich but tangy red and black currant and plum fruit. Notes of smoky herbs and tobacco mix with dark earth, clove, cedar, graphite, shows a lot of balance and accessibility despite the density. 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Malbec, 9% Petit Verdot, aged in 60% new French oak. (89 points)

2014 Cadaretta Windthrow - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley

SRP: $50

Light purple color. Nose shows tart black cherries, plum skins, pepper, sage, violets, coffee grounds. Structured broadly and grippy but some smoothness already, moderated by fresh, balanced acidity. Tart black cherries, blueberries, plum skins, laced with black pepper, smoky charcoal, leather, vanilla and cedar. Lovely complexity, depth for cellaring, but pleasurable and delicious now. 76% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre, 9% Grenache, aged 22 months in half new Hungarian oak and 40% new French oak. (90 points)

2014 Cadaretta Cabernet Sauvignon Southwind - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley

SRP: $75

Rich purple color. Dark but tangy red and black currant fruit, lots of violets, eucalyptus, violets, pepper, coffee, deep but evocative, too. Full-bodied, velvety but structured tannins, moderate acidity, the balance is very nice. Tangy black currant and suave blueberry fruit, rich and saucy but vibrant, loaded with black pepper glaze, soy, coffee grounds, eucalyptus, sweet cola, graphite – so many complex flavors to coax out. This will pay off years in the cellar or a solid decant. Includes 5% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot, aged 23 months in 60% new French oak. (91 points) 


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: Washington State's Cadaretta

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Cadaretta is a small producer based in Walla Walla, which was established in 2005 by the Middleton family. They produce a Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend, a Cab Sauv, a Syrah, and a Rhone blend. Most of the wines are sold to mailing list customers, winery visitors and a handful of retailers and restaurants. The wines are solid across the board, and, while not inexpensive, they’re delicious.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2015 Cadaretta SBS - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $23
Pale lemon color. Smells of lemongrass, cut flower stems, sea salt, honeysuckle, on top of lemon and apricot fruit. Plump texture but tart acidity on the palate. The green apple, lemon/lime and apricot fruit is vibrant but crunchy, and I get notes of cucumber water, wildflowers, candle wax, honeyed tea. Lots going on here but it retains a fresh and easy-sipping appeal. 89% Sauvignon Blanc and 11% Sémillon, all stainless steel with three months of lees contact. (87 points)

2012 Cadaretta Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $50
Vibrant purple color. Explosive nose of bright but juicy red and black currants, plums, topped with eucalyptus, cedar shavings, menthol and a rich soil note. Full-bodied with velvety but structured tannins and a nice kick of acidity to keep the wine moving forward. Black currant and dark plum skins mix with a host of complex flavors: eucalyptus, coffee, tar, tobacco leaf, cedar and vanilla. A rich but balanced wine that should unravel nicely over the next 3-5 years. Includes 6% Petit Verdot and 5% Merlot, aged 20 months in 90% new French oak. (89 points) 

2013 Cadaretta Syrah - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $35
Deep purple color. Smells of black cherries, blackberries, roasted plums, add in some smoke, spicy pepper, coffee and vanilla. Full and saucy on the palate with fleshy but grippy tannins and medium acidity, which adds a nice tart edge. Black currant and blackberry jam fruit blends nicely with smoke, charcoal and pepper. I also get some nice kicks of coffee, vanilla and warm mocha. Rich but quite complex, showing some aging potential in the near future. Includes 11% Mourvedre, 5% Grenache and 2% Viognier. Aged 21 months in French and American oak. (89 points)

2013 Cadaretta Windthrow - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $60
Vibrant purple color. On the nose: tart black currants and juicy black cherries, a real sense of leather (like a new leather jacket), pepper, sweet coffee and roasted nuts. Full and mouth-filling with medium strength tannins and a fresh shot of acidity that keeps it moving forward. Tart black cherries and blackberry jam mix with smoke, tar, leather and pepper. A woody, cigar lounge aspect and the oak is integrated quite well. Will be better in a few years but very nice stuff. 75% Syrah, 17% Mourvedre and 8% Cinsault. Aged 17 months in 1/3 new French oak. (88 points)

Columbia Valley: Options at All Price Points

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Columbia Valley is a huge area with multiple sub-appellations, home to a diverse array of grape varieties and wine styles.

I recently tasted through a few Columbia Valley whites and reds, and found some really nice bottles. Like any region, there are those larger-production blends that offer some fun flavors but leave the palate and mind wanting more. But I also came across a few higher-end wines that are quite exciting. It’s hard to generalize about an entire region, but I think these wines represent a good cross-section of what’s available from Columbia Valley.

2014 Buried Cane Chardonnay – Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $14

Dark straw color. Peaches and papayas on the nose, some white flowers and honeyed tea, a sweeter, perfumed aspect. Medium-low acid. Chunky pineapple fruit on the palate (papaya, pineapple and mango), with notes of honey, white tea, nougat, sweet white flowers and honeysuckle. Tasty, attractive, fun, not ultimately deep or complex but very good stuff for the price. Aged six months in 20% new French oak, includes 11% Semillon. (85 points)

2014 Nine Hats Cellars Pinot Gris The Benches - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $12

Light gold color. Nose of peaches, white flowers, lime peels. Creamy body, moderate acid, lemon-lime, white peaches, lots of floral kick and laundry freshener. Waxy, a hint of raw almond and nettle. Clean, refreshing, bright yet full of fruit and flowers. (86 points)

2014 Long Shadows Wineries Riesling Poet's Leap - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $20

Pale lemon color. Bright but complex aromatics, like limes, white peach and papaya topped with sea breeze, white flowers and clean laundry. A zesty and brisk wine but such pleasant richness, creaminess and sweetness as well. Peaches, apricot, papaya, drizzled with lime, I like the potpourri, straw, crushed chalk, ocean spray and ginger notes. Complex but stays zesty and downright fun. Delicious now, but perhaps it could do some cool stuff in the cellar. 89 points

2014 Dolan & Weiss Pinot Grigio Julia's Dazzle Rosé Benches Vineyard - Washington, Columbia Valley, Horse Heaven Hills

SRP: $16

White cherry and watermelon colored. Smells of roses and dandelions, white peaches, lime zest. Crisp and clean on the palate but a creamy, waxy feel. Tart white cherries, orange peels, ruby red grapefruit mixed with honeycomb, lesser amounts of pepper, roses, dandelions and chalk. Good balance, tangy stuff, very pleasant and creamy too. The label had me thinking this was a gimmick wine, but it’s really solid juice. (87 points)

2012 Mullan Road Cellars Red Wine Blend - Washington, Columbia Valley 

SRP: $50

Medium purple color. A sweet spice kick (clove, cinnamon?), along with rich but tart fruit (black and red currants, blackberries), backed up by notes of coffee, coconut and cracked pepper. Forward and ripe on the palate with moderate tannins, some tang from the acid. The black cherry, raspberries and blackberries and juicy, ripe, flowing and velvety. Root beer, cola, vanilla and clove add complexity. Juicy, ripe and open, yet so very pretty. Smooth and refined, despite the structure. Hints of baking spices, toasted oak and malt balls. Some interesting complexity to unravel in the cellar, but showing well now. A Dennis Cakebread project, this blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 13% Cabernet Franc shows a whole lot to love. (91 points)

2012 Cadaretta Windthrow - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $50

Vibrant purple color. Bold aromas of the juiciest raspberries and blackberries, some caramel, dried rose petals, vanilla, cedar. Full bodied, a velvety feel to the tannins, moderate acid. The fruit is concentrated and rich, with juicy blackberries and black cherries, add in vanilla, toasted nuts, sweet floral notes, hints of black pepper glaze. I get some dusty-loamy aspects, sweet coffee. Velvety and rich, approachable but it could benefit from two years or more. 56% Syrah, 25% Grenache and 19% Mourvedre, aged 17 months in 1/3 new French oak. (88 points)

2011 Buried Cane Heartwood Red - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $25

Medium purple color. Tight upon opening, needs swirling and time to show the black cherry, raspberry and dark plum fruit, along with hints of white pepper and tobacco. Medium-to-full-bodied with some velvety tannins and moderate-to-low acid. Lots of black cherries, dark plums and blueberries underlined by mocha, violets, some caramel and roasted red pepper notes. Opens to show barbecue sauce and coffee grounds flavors. A bit compact though and could use air or a decant. A wide-ranging Rhone blend of 54% Syrah, 15% Cinsault, 14% Mourvedre, 7% Grenache, 6% Counoise and 4% Viognier. (88 points)

  

2013 Columbia Winery Chardonnay - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $14

Light gold color. Smells like oranges, yellow apples, honeybutter, some floral white tea notes as well. Creamy body, medium weight, medium acid. Rich yellow apples, papaya, drizzled with honeycomb and hazelnut. Some circus peanut candies and caramel apple. Fun stuff, not really complicated, but tasty. (84 points)

N.V. Columbia Winery Red - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $14

Bright ruby color. Aromas of fig cookies, raspberry jam, mocha. Medium-light bodied, low tannin and low acid. Red apple peel and raspberry jam blend with toast, vanilla and caramel flavors. Tastes manufactured, the toasted oak is a bit much, overwhelms the sweet red fruit. (78 points)

2013 Columbia Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley 

SRP: $16

Medium ruby color. Smells of currant jam, roses, sweet vanilla and coffee. On the palate, light tannins, medium acid, tart cranberries, roasted plums and black currants mix with sweeter cherry jam, toasted oak, mocha and sweet vanilla. A fun, fruit-forward wine with easy drinking appeal for the near-term. (79 points)

2013 Columbia Winery Merlot - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $16

Light purple color. Smells like raspberry cheesecake topping, black cherry soda, vanilla and coconut. Light tannins, low acid, a candied, chewy feel to the palate. The black cherry and plum fruit tastes sweet and slightly cooked, mixed in with vanilla, caramel and espresso. Simple, sweet, syrupy, lacks a signature of place. (78 points)

Wine Reviews: Washington State

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

When it comes to pure deliciousness and joy in a wine-drinking experience, Washington State wines always deliver for me. 

Every time I think I have a grasp of the wines and their producers, I discover a new winemaker that wows me and keeps me wanting to learn more. 

There are also plenty of value-driven bottles available, although some of these, like bulk regional blends from anywhere, can lack excitement. 

Still, dollar for dollar, the quality of Washington State continues to impress.

This batch was received as trade samples and tasted blind.

2012 Columbia Winery Chardonnay - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $14
Richer nose, orange marmalade, creamy pears and honey, some floral, perfume. Plump on the palate, chunky pineapple and pears, drizzled with honey and topped with diced nuts. Bold, ripe, creamy, but some moderate acid keeps it in check. The nutty, chamomile, honey and baked bread elements show some moderate complexity. Includes some Semillon and Chenin Blanc. (85 points)

2013 Columbia Winery Chardonnay - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $14
Rich nose of oranges, baked pear, papaya, some honey and floral notes. Juicy and rich on the palate but acid keeps it balanced. Nutty and honeyed notes accent the pear, yellow apple and apricot fruit. I get a lot of crushed nuts, honeyed tea and toast elements. A creamy and bold Chardonnay with exposed oak, but still quite tasty. Includes 5% Pinot Gris and 3% “other white” grapes. (84 points)

2012 Kennedy Shah (Woodhouse Wine Estates) Riesling Reserve DuBrul Vineyard - Washington, Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley
SRP: $25
Medium gold color. Beautiful and complex nose of white peach, orange marmalade, kiwi, all drizzled with honey and some dusty soil. On the palate this wine is bright and clean, packing lots of fruit into a nervy, wiry frame. The slight sugary sweetness is matched perfectly with the brisk acid. I get lime, white peach, kiwi and papaya, throw in some honey and a whole lot of sea salt, shells and minerals. A hint of hazelnut lingering long into the finish. Complex and intriguing, but so refreshing and satisfying at the same time. (90 points) 

2010 Long Shadows Wineries Chester-Kidder - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $50
Dark purple color. Deep and dark on the nose with currants, fig paste, roasted plums mixing with notes of charcoal, mocha, vanilla, some spicy, bourbon cask elements. Firm tannins on the palate, this is a bold and concentrated wine but the acid helps it out a lot. Deep currants and black cherries blend with some black olive and spiced black tea notes. Long and full, with notes of coffee and coconut on the finish. Delicious, but it could use two or three years to unwind. 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Syrah and 5% Petit Verdot. (91 points)

2010 Daríghe (Woodhouse Wine Estates) Proprietor's Blend - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $65
Dark ruby-light purple color. Lovely blueberry and tart cranberries on the nose, lots of flowers, loamy soil, rich vanilla, clove, tobacco, but so much brightness to the aromatic profile as well. Tart acid, grippy tannins, full of structure but balanced and easy to drink at the same time. Blueberry fruit, blackberries and black cherries galore, complex and interesting notes of smoke and mocha notes, vanilla and milk chocolate, but also lots of flowers and loamy elements. The acid keeps it clean and fresh. Beautiful notes of spiced tea and incense sticks, like a spice rack collapsed onto the fruit. But it’s lovely and fresh and long-lasting. Complex, thought-provoking, but perhaps most importantly, downright delicious. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 12% Merlot, 7% Malbec and 3% Petite Verdot, aged 24 months in 75% new French oak. (92 points)

2010 Dussek Family Cellars (Woodhouse Wine Estates) Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley, Rattlesnake Hills
SRP: $36
A dark ruby colored in the glass. Lovely nose: Rich blue fruit mixes with tart red berries, and it’s all dusted with incense sticks, lavender, rose potpourri and a deep sense of earthy complexity. Silky and elegant on the palate, sure the tannins have lots of structure but the acid is tart and the fruit is cool, creamy and so smooth. Blueberries and red berries again, but also lots of loamy soil, tobacco leaf, cocoa powder and cinnamon notes. Long and complex, you could decant this and pick out nuances all night long, or just cellar it for five. But a beauty young. Swoon. 13.8% alcohol, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak, includes 8% Cabernet Franc. (92 points)

2011 Long Shadows Wineries Saggi - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $50
Notes of sweet blackberries and currant jam mix with charcoal, dark coffee, caramel and some sweet cedar. Full on the palate, dark but tart as well with crispness from the acid and fine but structured tannins. Cranberries and red currants, some blackberries as well, add to that some graphite, pencil shavings, red pepper jelly, anise and tobacco. Big but tart, well-structured and complex, this could develop quite a bit in the cellar. 43% Sangiovese, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Syrah. (91 points)

2011 Long Shadows Wineries Syrah Sequel - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $45
Dark purple color. Smokey and bold on the nose with black currants, black cherries and blueberries, all of it dark and deep, with a bit of beef jerky and charcoal thrown in as well. Solid tannic backbone, tamed by medium acid, the wine shows some chewy aspects but it’s also quite smooth (if that makes any sense). Black currant and blueberry fruit is juicy and rich and mixed in with an interesting combination of cedar, pencil shavings, teriyaki sauce and beef jerky. Bold but showing some restraint, a good decant and this could be enjoyed now, but I’d love to cellar it for three or four years to see what those meaty, earthy tones do. Aussie icon John Duval nails it with this Columbia Valley Syrah. (92 points) 
 
2012 Columbia Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $15
Bright ruby color. Smells of blackberries and blueberries, scorched earth, roasted coffee and some notes of sweet red licorice. Fresh acid and medium-strength tannins back up the blackberry and plum fruit. Notes of charcoal smoke, mocha and sweet tobacco round the wine out, and I also get some cedar shavings, chocolate chips and vanilla elements. Medium finish with notes of vanilla and toasted oak. Includes 11% Syrah, 10% Malbec and 3% Merlot. (85 points)

2012 Columbia Winery Merlot - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $14
Juicy purple color. Currants and tart blueberries on the nose with some earthy accents. Chewy on the palate with smooth tannins and a blueberry and candied cherry blend of flavors. Notes of mocha and earth. Simple, fun, a bit astringent on the finish. Includes 10% Syrah, and dashes of Cab and other varieties. (83 points)

N.V. Columbia Winery Red Blend - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $12
Smells of raspberry gummy candy, cola and smoke. Juicy, tangy and tart on the palate with darker berry fruit (plums and blackberries). I also get some roses and a hint of tobacco. Light tannins, medium acid, I need more complexity and personality from this wine though. Still, for $12, it’s not bad. A blend of Cabernet, Syrah and Merlot. (81 points)

Olive-Driven: 10 Years On, Cayuse Syrah Slays

Cayuse Syrahs never cease to amaze me. These two 2004s are still doing wonders.

A lot of wine lovers, myself included, use the term “mineral-driven” to describe certain wines. I find many a lot of Mosel Riesling, Chablis and Champagne to be driven by a sense mineral intensity. Well, to be consistent, aged Cayuse Syrahs should be called olive-driven.

So much olive. And I absolutely love it.

Of course, these wines have more than olives going for them. Tons of berry fruit, lots of earthy and herbal tones, notes of cured meats. The wines are popular (and expensive) for a reason: they’re gorgeous Syrahs, some of my favorite in the New World.

I tasted these two beauties alongside a slew of amazing wines and good friends during a recent end-of-the-year wine bash. We gathered at one of DC’s most delicious and wine-friendly restaurants, Ripple in Cleveland Park, to catch up, eat and imbibe.

Both of these Syrahs come from the rock-laden soils of Walla Walla, which straddles parts of Oregon and Washington. They both come from the same vintage, 2004, a hot growing season with a long, cool fall that led to small berries and concentrated wines.

Christophe Baron, the Champagne expat winemaker and genius behind Cayuse, started his Walla Walla Syrah run with the Cailloux Vineyard, which was planted in 1997. The En Chamberlin Vineyard, also home to Cayuse’s Widowmaker Cabernet, was planted in 2000. It was fascinating to taste these two vineyard-designate wines side-by-side a decade after the juice was pressed.

Cayuse Syrahs aren’t easy to find, and they’re not cheap, but lovers of Syrah (and olives) will not regret seeking them out.

2004 Cayuse Syrah Cailloux Vineyard
More than a year since my last tasting, and this one is still kicking. I get beef jerky, tons of green and black olives, as well as pickled beet and soy on the nose, not to mention the blueberry and bright cherry fruit. The blueberry, blackberry and wild cherry fruit is juicy and creamy, but the non-fruit flavors steal the show: green olives galore, smoked meat, crispy pork belly, roasted peppers... did I mention olives? Still showing dusty tannic structure and the acid helps tame the velvety mouthfeel a bit. Just a gorgeous wine. (94 points)

2004 Cayuse Syrah En Chamberlin Vineyard
Deeper and darker on the nose than the 2004 Cailloux tasted side by side. More plum cake, baked berry pie, more black olives. I also get a meat and seaweed note. Plummy and rich with blueberries, almost cough syrup-like presence, but it’s actually very pleasant and precise at the same time – somehow. So many complex flavors to unpack: fall leaves, bacon fat, teriyaki jerky, black and Greek olives, also some dried rose potpourri and lavender notes. A feast for the senses and a beautiful accompaniment to the slow cooked lamb shoulder. (95 points)

Winter Hibernation Report: West Coast Reds From the Cellar

I think it’s finally Spring. The Washington Nationals are out there cracking home runs and the cherry blossoms are about to bloom here in DC. I’m so stoked for the season I can barely stand to be indoors.

But it’s been a damn long winter, and I’ve endured many a frozen, snowy night. I’ve spent a lot of the winter hibernating at my desk with my laptop. I cooked from home even more than usual, and slow-cooked plenty of meats and stews.

Naturally, I uncorked some hearty red wines.

I post a lot of reviews of samples, but all of these bottles came from my personal cellar. When it’s just me, a friend or two, a cold night and a slow cooked meat dish, this is what I go for. I want something warm and complex, something you can sip and contemplate. 

Here are a few diverse reds that got me through the long, gray winter.

2004 Copain Syrah Cailloux & Coccinelle - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley

Medium purple color with ruby rims. Aromas of plums, blueberries, cooked bacon, earth, sweet roses and barbecue sauce. Lovely aromas that open and evolve with time. Fine tannins, some medium acid. Pure blueberry and black currant fruit mixes with rich BBQ sauce, tons of black olives, smoke and meat. I also get some sweet caramel, roses and fig paste. A bit of baked, reduced aspects, but just a hint, and not enough to throw the wine off. Fun, unique, and showing some interesting aged characteristics. A bit hot on the finish. Not sure how much longer this will hold. A blend from two of my favorite Washington State vineyards, Cailloux and Coccinelle. (90 points)

2005 Armagh Syrah - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

Meaty and saucy on the nose, like figs and black cherries cooked down with bacon and salami. The palate shows fleshy black and red fruit. Lots of smoky, black pepper sauce, earth, duck fat. Fine tannins, fresh acid, it all works out. Rich black fruit, a bit jammy at times, but also showing restraint. Love the black and kalamata olive notes. Still dense and rich, with wintergreen notes on the finish. 14.5% alcohol. Threw a ton of sediment, so definitely one to decant. Still going strong. Gonna hold onto my other bottle for another year or two. (88 points)

2005 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Kanzler Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast)

Aromas of bright cherries, raspberries, rhubarb, some cola and sweet pickle relish (seriously). Like velvet on the palate, with fine tannins and surprisingly fresh acid. The fruit is rich but elegant, like wild strawberries and black cherries. Notes of root beer, sweet pickle, cola and white pepper add complexity. Rich, but believe it or not, this shows some elegance. Undeniably viscous and rich, but the 15.3% alcohol is somewhat kept in check by the intensity of the other elements. Pepper and earth notes on the finish. Most of the Kosta-Browne’s I’ve tasted with 6+ years on them can develop baked fruit and evident alcohol, but this one doesn't show as much. It’s smoothed out wonderfully. Big and beautiful stuff. I rarely pair Pinot with steak, but I tried it this time and I loved it. (92 points)

2007 Tsillan Cellars Syrah Estate Barrel Select - Washington, Columbia Valley, Lake Chelan

Deep purple colored, a bit of bricking at the rims. Aromas of raspberry and blueberry jam, violets, cola and caramel. On the palate, the tannins are medium-grained, providing good structure. The acid is a bit low for my palate, keeping me from getting too thrilled about this wine. The blueberry and blackberry fruit is rich, showing some balsamic accents. Still, I like what this wine is doing, and I like the sweet BBQ sauce, black pepper, earth and Portobello mushroom notes. Seems to be drinking very well now, and I’m not sure how much longer I’d hold onto a bottle, as I worry those baked-balsamic notes will just get stronger. All that said, well-made and tasty stuff. For $15, this is a bargain. (87 points)

2009 Copain Pinot Noir Les Voisins - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

A clear plum and black cherry color in the glass. Cool raspberries, strawberries and black cherries on the nose, some pipe tobacco, rose petals, subtle fountain cola notes. The strawberries and raspberries show great balance between tartness and ripeness. Crisp and clean, with earthy, licorice and white pepper tones. Just a hint of mocha and fountain soda on the finish. Juicy and cool (13.3% alcohol), pure and sexy, wow. Structure for cellaring if you’re interested in seeing some secondary flavors coaxed out, but I was perfectly happy drinking this now. Seems to be in near-perfect balance with itself. (92 points)

2009 Carol Shelton Wines Zinfandel “Karma Zin” Bastoni Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

$30

Aromas of black cherries and sweet cola, floral, bright and juicy, just damn sexy. Rich but juicy on the palate, full of black cherry and sweet cola. Dusty tannins, fresh acid. Flavors of roasted chestnut, sweet lavender, root beer, plum cake. Rich but not port-like. I actually sipped this with some friends after surfing 39 degree waves in New Jersey, and it absolutely hit the spot. Pure cold weather goodness. (91 points)

2010 Bedrock Wine Co. Syrah Sonoma Coast - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

Wow, what a beauty. Plum, blackberry, violets and charcoal on the nose. Juicy on the palate, with chewy tannins, lively acid. Crunching blackberry and plum fruit, which mixes in with all sorts of complex non-fruit flavors: mesquite, black pepper, tobacco and bell pepper. Long and creamy on the finish, with notes of braised beef and bacon. Just a hint of coconut and mocha, but so subtle. Wild yeasts, up to half of the fruit is whole-cluster fermented, aged in oak, a “minimal” amount of new. Pure and inspiring, this is why I love about Sonoma Coast Syrah. My advice: drink over two days or cellar for 1-2 years, but I could see this evolving over the next 3-5 easily. (92 points)

2010 Bedrock Wine Co. The Bedrock Heirloom - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
Medium purple-violet color. Initially quite closed on the nose, with dusty earth and cement, but it opens up to show tangy berries, flowers and dried herbs. Juicy on the palate, full of crisp berry fruit. Fine tannins, some refreshing-lively aspects from the acid. Shows elegance and depth, and I love the floral and earthy tones. Some bay leaf and pepper. Full of flavor, but maintains mystique. Beautiful stuff from 100+ year-old vines. About 55% Zinfandel, 25% Carignane, 11% Mourvedre, and 9% Syrah. picked and vinified separately, and a dash of some other varieties. (91 points)

Checking Up On Some Favorite Pacific Northwest Wines

I’m a huge fan of Oregon and Washington wines, but for some reason I can’t seem to collect too many bottles. It’s strange, but they mysteriously disappear from my cellar within a few months. So I was psyched when a good friend, tasting buddy and Pacific Northwest buff invited me to a “cellar culling” tasting. In order to make room for fall shipments, he popped a case of wines. We tasted through them blind, but knowing how much this friend loves PNW, I figured a good portion of the wines were Oregon Pinots and Washington Syrahs.

Luckily for me, I was right. I tasted some phenomenal wines from some of my favorite PNW producers: Cameron, Reynvaan, Gramercy Cellars, Cayuse. Most of the wines hailed from the 2010 vintage, whose combination of ripeness and freshness aligns perfectly with my palate. I tasted and scored all the wines blind before we unveiled them.

My notes on one hell of an evening…



2010 Cameron Chardonnay Blanc Clos Electrique - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills
A simply beautiful Chard. Cameron has done something amazing with the 2010 vintage. The nose shows an incredibly complex mix of guava, melon, almond, sea salt and white flowers. The palate is full of brisk acid and rich texture. White peach, yellow apple, lime, lemon, it all mixes with notes of honey, caramel and nougat. Rich but so lively and nervy. As always, Cameron impresses. This is consistently one of my favorite domestic Chards, and the 2010 version is superb. I’d love to put this down for a year or two and see what it does. (94 points)

2011 Cameron Saignee of Pinot Noir - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills
Copper colored. Very peppery on the nose, with strawberries, earth, a kind of funky goat cheese aspect. Crisp acid and silky body form the palate, with notes of saline, pepper and green herbs. Tangy and lively, this is one good pink. Pure and fresh and unique. (89 points)

2007 Cameron Nebbiolo Clos Electrique - Oregon, Willamette Valley
Initially funky on the nose, but then it shifted into this bright cherry sauce and pepper thing. On the palate this is really bright and tangy, with some pleasant bitterness from the tannins. Currant and red plum fruit, with lots of earth, olive and a flavor that reminds me of roasted red peppers, like the kind in olive oil. Delicious stuff, and very unique. I guessed this as a Jura red, but it had me quite perplexed the whole time. This would be amazing with food. It’s rare for a domestic producer to pull off Nebbiolo, but leave it to Cameron... (91 points)

2008 Crowley Pinot Noir La Colina - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills
On the nose, a mix of juicy berries with some notes of earth and funky farmyard. Juicy and fresh on the palate, with black cherry, cola and earth. Some generous fruit, but the persistent acid makes this so easy to drink. (90 points)

2008 Patricia Green Cellars Pinot Noir Estate Etzel Block VY - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Ribbon Ridge
Initially I picked up some sulfur, but it blew off after a few minutes and I started getting juicy cherries and berry compote aromas. Live-wire acid — love it — with silky tannins and pure berry fruit. Complex notes of pepper, cola and sweet oak. Pretty stuff, open and ready for business. (91 points)

2008 Cameron Pinot Noir Abbey Ridge - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills
On the nose I got mushroom, potting soil and sweet herb notes on top of cherries and strawberries. Fresh and tangy on the palate, with a solid foundation of tannins. Lots of currants, red cherries, along with cola, earth, beef and pepper notes. Complex and powerful, yet focused, this will improve in the cellar. (92 points)

2008 Gramercy Cellars Syrah “Lagniappe” - Washington, Columbia Valley
Aromas of blackberry, earth, sweet herbs and a meaty note. Great structure, moderate acid, and a complex mix of blueberry and dark plum fruit. I love the sweet herbs, flowers and meaty tones. Delicious stuff with a long life ahead of it. (92 points)

2010 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Syrah “The Contender” - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley
I’ve loved the previous few vintages of this wine, but the 2010 is truly stunning. Complex waves of aromas: blackberries, blueberries, campfire smoke, olive, violets, peppered jerky. Solid tannic grip, but the edges are fined down, the acid makes this smooth and silky on the palate. The blueberry and blackberry fruit tastes pure and creamy, and the fruit is laced with olive, pepper, iron, mushroom and pepper-crusted steak flavors. Long and powerful finish. This wine got better and better as it saw more air, and I’d love to retry this in two or three more years. Stunning stuff. (95 points)



2010 Gramercy Cellars Grenache Olsen Vineyard - Washington, Columbia Valley
Mixed berries, roses, violets and soil on the nose, like some sort of awesome greenhouse. Surprisingly bright on the palate, with fine tannins and some tangy acid. The red berry fruit mixes with pepper, olive and a cherry cola note. Not overripe or hot at all. Delicious stuff with some staying power. (91 points)

2010 Cayuse Grenache “God Only Knows” - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley
Rich berries on the nose, with pepper and beef brisket notes. On the palate, showing some tanginess, nice tannic backbone, flavors of red cherries, blackberries, olive, lots of pepper and some meat notes. A fruity wine, but oh so balanced and complex. Another stellar 2010, this is gorgeous stuff. (93 points)