Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

Hey folks, this week I’m back with another round-up of wine samples from around the globe. Some delicious and budget-friendly wines from Argentinian producers Achaval-Ferrer and Domaine Bousquet showed well. I’ve also reviewed four wines from the Northern and Southern Rhone Valleys. Lastly, we finish off with some Blandy’s 10-Year Madeiras and a sparkling wine from Oregon producer Gran Moraine that I think deserves some serious attention.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2015 Achával-Ferrer Cabernet Franc - Argentina, Mendoza, Lujan de Cuyo
SRP: $23
Deep ruby color. Aromas of black cherries, juicy plums, along with tobacco leaf, menthol, sweet roses, coffee and cedar. Impressive structure on the palate, full-bodied and velvety but grip on the tannins, medium acidity. Black cherries and crunchy plum fruit mixes well with cocoa, coffee, spiced black tea, tobacco. Complexity and depth is impressive, but this is still an accessible and friendly wine. (88 points)

2016 Domaine Bousquet Gaia White - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $18
Light gold color. Bursting aromatics of peaches, yellow apples, quince paste, honey, along with ginger and spiced tea. Medium-bodied with zesty acidity and plump pears and apples, drizzled with lime. Hints of ginger, white pepper and shells add complexity. Crisp, fresh, delish, very good for the price. A blend of Chardonnay with 35% Pinot Gris and 15% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% of the wine sees six months in French oak. (89 points)

2015 Domaine Bousquet Gaia Red - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. Aromas of sweet plums, blackberries, along with violets, sage, eucalyptus, mint, vanilla – great mix of aromas. Full and velvety on the palate but some nice grip to the tannins and fresh acidity, along with tart black cherry. Fruity but fresh with notes of eucalyptus, smoky charcoal, cedar, coffee. Hedonistic flavors but it stays tart and vibrant, and it works well. Malbec, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 10 months in French oak. (90 points)

2014 Famille Perrin Vinsobres Les Cornuds - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Vinsobres
SRP: $16
Deep ruby color. Aromas of sweet but tangy cherries, along with lots of lavender, roses, rhubarb and pepper. Tangy and fresh appeal on a 13.5% alcohol frame, with accessible tannins and tart cherries and red plum. Notes of roses, lavender, sage, coffee. Vibrant and tangy but shows some complexity, definitely a crowd-pleasing, food-friendly wine. Grenache, Syrah. (87 points)

2015 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Beaumes-de-Venise Le Paradou - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Beaumes-de-Venise
SRP: $16
Light purple color. Aromas of tart black currants, plums, cherries, along with lavender, violets, rich earth. Medium grip on the tannins, tart acidity, along with plums, roasted figs, black currant. Notes of sweet violets, espresso, pepper, clove, lavender. Structured well but lively and fresh, too. 75% Grenache, 25% Syrah. (88 points)

2015 Cave de Tain Crozes-Hermitage Grand Classique - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage
SRP: $23
Deep purple color. Gushing aromas of black cherry and blackberry with sweet herbs, coffee, mocha, anise and clove. Nice grip on the palate with medium acidity and lots of dark plummy fruit, gushing black currants, deliciousness abounds. Notes of sweet coffee, cedar, clove, pepper and anise add complexity. Straight delish but also impressive depth, and this could age well over the next few years. (89 points)

2014 Alain Voge Cornas Les Chailles - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
SRP: $45

Light purple color. Aromas of black cherries and currants, tons of smoky, herbal and savory aspects (black pepper, pine resin, smoked meat, bacon fat, lentils). Medium-bodied frame with serious grip to the tannins but vibrant acidity for freshness. Cool black cherries and tart plums, the fruit is topped in black pepper, charcoal, roasted meat, bacon fat, black olive. A bit tight but seriously good stuff, I would love to re-taste this in 5-8 years. From 40-year-old vines. (91 points)

2016 Castello di Gabbiano Dark Knight - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

SRP: $17
Medium ruby color. Aromas of tart cherries, sweet cola, coffee and cedar. Fresh and tart on the palate with lights tannins and tangy acidity. Crunchy red cherries and strawberry jam mix with notes of cola, cedar and vanilla. Pleasant, ripe, tasty, crowd-pleasing. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Sangiovese. (85 points)

N.V. Gran Moraine Pinot Noir Brut Rosé - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton

SRP: $50

Pale copper color. Aromas of strawberries, white cherries, roses, honeysuckle, biscuits, toasted almond, sea salt, ginger — wow! Crisp acidity and a lot of textural depth and richness but such a refreshing, lip-smacking wine. Strawberries, white cherries, red apple peel, the fruit is topped in toasted baguette, flaky biscuits, salted almond, ginger, honeysuckle, sea breeze. The minerality is gorgeous. What an impressive sparkling wine. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. (93 points)

N.V. Blandy's Madeira Sercial 10 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
SRP: $30/500ml
Golden/amber color. Aromas of sea salt, almonds, coconut shavings, ocean spray, along with quince paste and apricot jam. Rich textural depth on the palate but gorgeous acidity, honeyed but salty. Flavors of orange marmalade, apricot, sea salt, raw almond, ginger. Lovely depth on this wine, and a great introduction to serious Sercial at a very reasonable price. (90 points) 

N.V. Blandy's Madeira Malmsey 10 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
SRP: $30/500ml
Rich orange/brown color. Aromas of almond cake, orange marmalade, coconut, honey, salted caramel. Rich but salty, sweet but fresh. Flavors of quince and fig paste, orange marmalade, coconut, caramel, sea salt, honeycomb, candied pecans. Delicious, complex, lovely Malmsey, especially for the price. (90 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

My Favorite Wines of 2016

Madeira!

2016 was a yin-yang year. So much awesomeness in my personal life, but so much shite on a world-wide scale. Sometimes it’s hard to keep that positive mental attitude in a world that’s literally and figuratively burning.

Wine helps. And great wine can work miracles. I consider myself immensely lucky to have traveled to some amazing wine country and wrapped my palate around some epic wines over the past 12 months.

Interesting how it worked out, but all of my favorite wines this year came from two specific events.

The first was my inaugural trip to the Portuguese island of Madeira. This has been a bucket list trip of mine for at least a decade, since I first saw pictures of volcanic cliffs dropping off into deep, pristine Atlantic surf.

In February, I spent a week there, touring and tasting most of the island’s producers, who make the most unique and age-worthy wines in the entire world. (That’s my opinion, but it’s also as close to absolute truth as one can get with sweeping statements about certain wines).

Most of these earth-shattering wines came from the historic Madeira producer D’Oliveiras, where I tasted a bunch of wines from the 19th Century. (Click here for my primer on this historic island’s wine.)

The rest of my favorite wines came from a vertical tasting of the heralded Second Growth Bortdeaux estate, Chateau Cos d’Estournel. Vertical tastings are always enlightening, and tasting this many wines from one epic estate is wine nerd heaven.

Below are the notes on my top wines of the year.

1850 D'Oliveiras Madeira Verdelho (Portugal, Madeira)

It's so difficult to wrap my head around an historic wine like this. First of all, it's an intellectually fascinating experience, which evokes dreams of centuries past. I won't claim to be able to separate the historical significance of the wine from the sensory experience of tasting the wine. But, tasting the wine itself is one of the most amazing experiences in my wine lifetime. I'll attempt to describe this thing. First off, it still has fruit on the nose, kind of like quince paste and preserved lemon, but I get complex elements of clove, old furniture shop, cigar smoke and wood varnish. On the palate, this wine shows a pleasant bitterness, while the sweetness balances perfectly with the high acidity. One flavor evolves into another, and into another, and then back again, like a blissful circle. I'll throw some words at a few of these flavors: caramel, varnished wood, cigar box, candle wax, leather, sea salt, yellow raisins, candied lemon peel, old library books, sweet floral potpourri, spiced tea. The complexity is ridiculous. So, this is an incredible intellectual experience in and of itself, but the aromas and flavors of this wine are ethereal. Perhaps the best thing to ever grace my palate. (99 points)

1954 Justino Henriques Madeira Verdelho (Portugal, Madeira)
The aromas on this wine are complex, intriguing and sort of ridiculous. Clove, almond, anise, flowers, potpourri, all sorts of nuances. So pure and silky on the palate, the balance is impeccable. Smooth but complex, bright but rich, such a sexy and fascinating wine. Flavors of yellow raisin and dried pineapple are pure and delicious, followed up by waves of caramel, wax, almond, sea salt. So insanely complex that I would need a long time to analyze this wine and pull out all the nuances. But, in the end, it’s just a supremely enjoyable wine to sip. One of the best wines of the trip, and actually one of the best wines I’ve tasted in years. (98 points)

1927 D'Oliveiras Madeira Bastardo (Portugal, Madeira)
I am so blown away by this wine. It's not just intellectually and historically fascinating, it has amazing and haunting aromas and flavors, and the complexity is ridiculous. On the nose, I get dried fruits, nuts, surprisingly fresh flowers, salt air, white pepper, all of it nuanced and gorgeous. The palate is silky but tart, and I can't believe the liveliness, purity and vibrancy on this wine. The fruit is not just kicking, it comes out swinging with oranges, sliced pears and dried mango. The complex elements of smoke, nuts, spice and earth are profound. So balanced and elegant, so long and pure. Unbelievable stuff. (98 points)

1894 Henriques & Henriques Madeira "Founder's Solera" (Portugal, Madeira)
One of my favorite wines of the trip. What a stunner. Aromatically, I get old leather, cigar lounge, brown sugar, musk, eucalyptus and floral potpourri. Full and so complex but the brightness is incredible. Flavors of musk, leather, library dust, clove, cinnamon and coffee. But it's still so vibrant with these elements of orange marmalade, cocoa and white flowers. So long and pure. Whoa. (97 points)

1907 D'Oliveiras Madeira Malvazia (Portugal, Madeira)
So dark colored. Sharp aromas (the volatile acidity is evident) but it’s packed together with hay, floral tea, cigar shop and smoking jacket aromas. Rich but so floral on the palate with a dizzying array of complex flavors: spiced tea, graham cracker, cigar smoke, sweet coffee, dried roses. So alive, complex and long, a pure joy to sip. (97 points)

1890 D'Oliveiras Madeira Verdelho (Portugal, Madeira)
A real treat to taste. I get some orange peel, honeycomb, caramel and green coffee aromas. So pure and smooth on the palate, I can't believe how balanced and precise this wine is. Filled with tobacco, peppper, floral spice, roasted chestnut and coffee bean. No real fruit here, but the other flavors are rocking and the wine stays bright and tangy. Long finish with notes of mineral and quinine. Wow. (97 points)

N.V. Barbeito Madeira Malvazia Over 40 Years Old "Mãe Manuela" (Portugal, Madeira)
What an absolutely gorgeous wine. Props to Ricardo Freitas for putting this wine together to honor his mother – it’s an amazing tribute. Smells of sweet clove, complex almond and pecan, baked squash, dried apricot, polished wood and anise. On the palate this is waxy and sweet but the balance is pristine. The complexity of flavors nears the absurd: nuts, dried fruits, minerals, sea salt, rooibos tea. Smooth, sweet, tangy, precise. This is phenomenal stuff. During an epic Madeira trip, this was one of the highlights. (97 points)

2005 Château Cos d'Estournel (France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe)
A textbook example of near-perfect Bordeaux, as far as I can tell. Concentrated but elegant aromas, rich black cherry and currant fruit, accented by gorgeous earth, incense, dried floral and complex spice tones. So elegant on the palate despite the firm structure. Seems perfectly balanced between acid, tannin and fruit. Black and hints of red currant, the fruit is so pure and precise, and backed up by curling waves of incense, cedar, fallen leaves, graphite, mocha and cardamom. Simply phenomenal, and I bet it's just getting started. My wine of the night. A real treasure to taste. (98 points)

2010 Château Cos d'Estournel (France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe)
A bit "brighter" than the 2012 aromatically, but also intense and quite compact at this young age. Dense black cherries and currants on the nose along with coffee, roasted nuts and rich earth. Full and chewy with dense tannins but there's also a vibrancy and cleanness to the wine that makes it incredibly attractive. Rich black cherries, currants, loaded with coffee, roasted nuts, gravel, cocoa, violets, pepper glaze. Long, full, incredibly long finish. Amazing aging potential here - it's almost a shame tasting this so young, but it's an awesome experience to taste this wine at this point in its lifespan. Ridiculously good. (97 points)

1985 Château Cos d'Estournel (France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe)
This wine stands out for its bright, red-fruited approach. Smells tangy and herbal with bright red currants, red apple peel, violets, bay leaf, cigar smoke, floral perfume - an incredibly complex and elegant nose on this beauty. Bright and clean on the palate, with refined tannins and fresh acid. The red currant fruit is laced with rose hips, white pepper, cardamom, floral perfume, oregano and tobacco. Long, crisp finish, full of complexity. So bright and sexy, and showing wonderfully. Not the most heralded wine in the lot, but for my palate, the freshness on this wine is so damn attractive. (97 points)

Happy Halloween! Here are Some Wine and Candy Pairings

Halloween is by far my favorite holiday. And even though it falls on a Monday this year, there's still time to unwrap some candy bars, uncork some wine, and have a damned good time.

I'm not a huge fan of chocolate or candy and wine pairings but there are some really good ones, if you're a sweet tooth fan looking for a buzz with your sugar rush.

I propose Reese's cups and Malvasia Madeira in my latest submission for the Snooth wine website.


Click here to read a range of wine and candy pairings from some great wine writers.

The Ultimate Wine & Cookie Pairing Guide

My latest contribution to Snooth's Wine Writers Round-Up Series is live now.


This month, we're focusing on wine and cookie pairings. Spoiler alert: my pick involves Girl Scout Samoas and 10-Year Blandy's Bual Madeira.


But there are a bunch of great recommendations in here for anyone with a sweet tooth.


Cheers!

Madeira Heaven: Henriques & Henriques

Credit: Henriques & Henriques.

It's been a month since I returned from Madeira, but I'm still reeling. This Portuguese island off the coast of Morocco is one of the most stunning places on earth, and the wines made here are unlike wines made anywhere else. (Click here for my primer on Madeira wine, which discussed how the different styles and the unique production and aging methods.)

While on the island, I visited six of the eight producers. I wrote about Barbeito, D'Oliveiras and Justino's already. Now, I turn to another great producer, Henriques & Henriques. This renowned firm was founded in 1850 by João Gonçalves Henriques. When he died, his two sons created a partnership, hence the name Henriques & Henriques, or H&H as it's often called.

H&H's headquarters are located west of Funchal in a steely and modern facility. Humberto Jardim, the firm's Managing Director and CEO, showed myself and some other wine lovers around the winery and poured us wine-ranging examples of Madeira wine from their impressive portfolio.

I toured the massive cellars, which are stacked high with barrels undergoing the estufagem process, used for the best wines and allows the barrels to age as they're exposed to heat and oxygen.


The crew (myself with the hat) in H&H's
cellars, Humberto Jardim on the right.

These wines are refreshing and exciting, but, like all Madeira wine, they honor a rich sense of history.

I've pasted my notes on the H&H wines below.

N.V. Henriques & Henriques Madeira Monte Seco - Portugal, Madeira
Smells dry and highly oxidized, lots of salted nuts. So tart on the palate with bright lemon, salted lime and some white peach, along with salted nuts. Not very complicated, but fun, innovative stuff. (85 points)

N.V. Henriques & Henriques Madeira Full Rich - Portugal, Madeira
Smells of brown sugar, honey and hot oil. Creamy, sweet and sugary with flavors of caramel and sweet plum cake. A decent entry-level wine. (83 points)

1997 Henriques & Henriques Madeira Tinta Negra Single Harvest Fine Rich Madeira - Portugal, Madeira
Smells of cognac, honey, spiced tea and old wood furniture. Full and smooth on the palate, this is nutty, long and elegant. Aged in Cognac barrels. Very cool stuff. (90 points)

1998 Henriques & Henriques Madeira Tinta Negra Single Harvest Fine Rich Madeira - Portugal, Madeira
More floral than the 97. Smooth and velvety on the palate with orange marmalade, honey, caramel and cigar smoke. Subtle complexity in here. Unlike the 97, this is not aged in Cognac barrels. (89 points)

2001 Henriques & Henriques Madeira Sercial Single Harvest - Portugal, Madeira
Almond, clover and fresh flowers on the nose. Brisk and fresh, salty and briny, a lovely texture but so much brightness and generous acid. Lemon, orange peel, almond, chalky notes. Well done. (89 points)

1971 Henriques & Henriques Madeira Sercial - Portugal, Madeira
Nose: floral perfume, eucalyptus and cigar box. Acid is high but integrated well. Candied lemon, ginger, white tea, crusty sea salt, almond shell. Wow, there is a lot going on here but it’s held together incredibly well. (92 points)

N.V. Henriques & Henriques Madeira Verdelho 15 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
Smells like tropical, glazed fruits (a whole lot of them). Sweet pineapple, glazed pears, canned peaches, honey. Good stuff, but I was expecting to like this more than I did. (87 points)

N.V. Henriques & Henriques Madeira Verdelho 20 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
Deep, complex aromas of almond, apricot, honey, candied lemon and sea salt. Juicy on the palate, full of dried, tropical fruits, orange marmalade, honeycomb, spiced tea and dried flowers. Ripping acidity, sea salt, complex nutty elements. Lots going on here. (91 points)

2000 Henriques & Henriques Madeira Boal Single Harvest - Portugal, Madeira
On the nose: sweet honey, dried apricots, spiced tea. Rich and tropical with lots of honey, dates, sweet flowers. Rich but a more reserved style Bual. (88 points)

1957 Henriques & Henriques Madeira Boal - Portugal, Madeira
Smells like an old furniture oiling rag, complete with that lemony, varnish scent but also lots of floral perfume, nougat and honey. Rich texture and sweetness but lovely acid. Smooth, complex, laced with flavors or orange rind, dried wax, lemon oil. So good. (93 points)

N.V. Henriques & Henriques Madeira Malmsey 15 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
Nose of orange marmalade, brown sugar, Sweet and rich but stays bright and salty. Complexity is quite nice, and there’s a shot of salty, nutty complexity that keeps the wine elegant despite the richness. (90 points)

N.V. Henriques & Henriques Madeira Malvasia 20 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
Smooth, rich, spicy, velvety, full of complex flavors. Gorgeous stuff. (94 points)

N.V. Henriques & Henriques Madeira Terrantez 20 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
Aromas of almonds, orange peel and some oily, waxy, polish notes. Complex and spicy with tart acidity. Orange and lemon peel mix with honey, clove and spiced tea. Acid lingers on the tart finish. (90 points)

N.V. Henriques & Henriques Madeira Tinta Negra 50 Year Old - Portugal, Madeira
What a stunner of a wine. Such complexity, such elegance, such depth. The flavors are superb, as is the balance. A real "wow" kind of wine. (96 points)

1894 Henriques & Henriques Madeira "Founder's Solera" - Portugal, Madeira
One of my favorite wines of the trip. What a stunner. Aromatically, I get old leather, cigar lounge, brown sugar, musk, eucalyptus and floral potpourri. Full and so complex but the brightness is incredible. Flavors of musk, leather, library dust, clove, cinnamon and coffee. But it's still so vibrant with these elements of orange marmalade, cocoa and white flowers. So long and pure. Whoa. (97 points)

Time-Tested Madeira Wines From Justino's

“There are plenty of fortified wines, but when it comes to that combination of freshness and saltiness, you can only count on Madeira.”

So said Commercial Director Julio Fernandes as we tasted through a lineup of wines from his employer, Justino’s. And I couldn't agree more: that streak of freshness, those oceanic and salty breeze accents, they’re what keep me coming back to Madeira wines.

I recently traveled to the home of these iconic and historic fortified wines, Madeira, a volcanic Portuguese island located a few hundred miles off the coast of Morocco, and had the time of my life. The island is a treasure trove of pristine coastline, stunning cliffs, mountain forests, hardscrabble vines, fruit trees, flowers, great cuisine and, of course, it's eponymous wines, which are some of the best and most long-lived on the planet.  

Other posts from my trip to Madeira:

Barbeito: Tradition Done Differently

Unfortified: The Still Wines of Madeira

With only about 500 hectares of vines (about 1,200 acres), this is a small wine-producing region. But Justino’s is the island’ s largest house, producing slightly more than half of Madeira exports. This house has been in operation since 1870, and their annual production is now more than a million liters (although that includes bulk wine used for cooking and dessert products as well). 

Justino’s wines appear under various labels, depending on the export market. Some wines fall under the Broadbent Selections brand (including many in the U.S.) while others are sold as Justino’s Henriques. (Henriques & Henriques is Justino's sister wine producer.)

Justino's biggest export clients are France, Germany, Japan and, of course, the United States. “We are always increasing our sales to the United States,” Julio said. He added that the company is trying to focus on more diverse and emerging markets within the U.S., “not just New York and San Francisco.” And Julio said he’s worked with hospitality schools in the U.S. to conduct Madeira-focused tastings and cooking classes.  

Getting the next generation of wine drinkers excited about fortified (and often sweet) wine isn’t easy, but Madeira producers are hoping their unique style of production and the long historical connection between America and Madeira will catch on with wine consumers of my age bracket.

Justino’s isn’t done growing yet. Julio told me his firm has set a goal of 20-30% increase over the next decade. While many wineries look for shorter term gains, Madeira producers are accustomed to the lack of immediate results. The most basic, entry-level Madeira wines require the three years of aging, while many wines are aged for five, 10 and 15 years, many for even longer.

“Madeira is different,” Julio told me, stating the obvious. Everything takes time here, and a long-range outlook is necessary: “We are not selling wine. We are selling a product that will live forever.”

As this tasting demonstrated, some of these wines sure seem indestructible. I tasted through a wide range of Justino’s wines and found a lot to like, especially the older vintage wines.

Below are my notes from a great tasting.

N.V. Broadbent Madeira Rainwater Medium Dry - Portugal, Madeira
Bright, clean aromatics of oranges and white flowers. Crisp but nutty on the palate, showing a bit of complexity, with a clean, bright finish. Aged three years. (85 points)

N.V. Broadbent Madeira Fine Rich Sweet - Portugal, Madeira
Nutty with lots of caramel on the nose, a slight floral kick. The palate is full of sweet raisins and candied almonds. Fun, a bit simple, sweet but stays quite fresh. Aged three years. (85 points)

N.V. Broadbent Madeira 5 Year Old Reserve - Portugal, Madeira
Smells of sweet caramel, orange rind and candied nuts. On the palate, I get raisins, quince paste, candied nuts. This is the same wine as the three year, it’s just aged two more years. It’s really interesting to see what an addition two years of aging does. Significantly more smooth and complex. (87 points)

N.V. Broadbent Madeira Sercial 10 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
Smells of fresh oranges and limes along with quince and white flowers. So tangy and salty on the palate, even a bit briny, which I love. I get dried flowers, clove, nuts and a range of sea salty notes. A bright and precise Sercial. (88 points)

N.V. Broadbent Madeira Verdelho 10 Year Old - Portugal, Madeira
A richly tropical aromatic spread of honey, glazed pears, sliced peaches and exotic flowers. Juicy texture to the palate but tart acidity (great balance between brightness and richness). Flavors of pineapples and dried mango topped with honey and crushed nuts. I love the floral components and the racy quality of this wine. (88 points)

N.V. Broadbent Madeira Boal 10 Year Old - Portugal, Madeira
Rich aromas of honey and orange marmalade. Sweet and plush on the palate with honey, almond, nougat and sweet raisins. Despite this flavor profile, this is a fresher style of Bual with lingering acidity. (88 points)

N.V. Broadbent Madeira Malmsey 10 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
Complex aromatics: earthy-spicy tones, musk, cigar smoke. Smooth, round and plus on the nose. Complex elements of orange and apricot jams, spiced tea, honeycomb. Long and rich but so fresh with a lingering sense of pleasant bitterness. (88 points)

1996 Justino's Madeira Wines Madeira Colheita - Portugal, Madeira
Lovely aromas of dried honey, almonds and caramel. Sweet and round on the palate but it maintains a salty freshness that is very attractive. Flavors of apricot jam mix with pecans, almonds, caramel and a bold sense of floral spice. Wow, this will be one to watch for decades to come. Made from Tinta Negra. (91 points)

1999 Justino's Madeira Wines Madeira Colheita - Portugal, Madeira
A bit darker in its aromas of caramel and nuts than the 1996. Creamier, rounded, a bit fatter, but still vibrant. Apricots, sweet raisins, caramel, mixed nuts. Long and velvety. Made from Tinta Negra. (90 points)

1940 Justino Henriques Madeira Sercial - Portugal, Madeira
Seriously complex aromas here: almond, sea salt, clover, baby’s breath, honey and a somewhat sharp shot of volatile acidity. Bright and really salty on the palate, the VA is balanced and woven in well with the wine’s richness and complexity of flavors. Dried apricot and pineapple mixes with almonds, sea salt and oyster brine. The complexity here is awesome, but this wine is severely sharp, almost abrasive. I can’t help but love it. As Julio Fernandes said, he likes this wine because “it gives you fight.” It definitely does. (92 points)

I doubt I'll ever forget that 1954 Verdelho - one of the best wines I've ever tasted.

1954 Justino Henriques Madeira Verdelho - Portugal, Madeira
The aromas on this wine are complex, intriguing and sort of ridiculous. Clove, almond, anise, flowers, potpourri, all sorts of nuances. So pure and silky on the palate, the balance is impeccable. Smooth but complex, bright but rich, such a sexy and fascinating wine. Flavors of yellow raisin and dried pineapple are pure and delicious, followed up by waves of caramel, wax, almond, sea salt. So insanely complex that I would need a long time to analyze this wine and pull out all the nuances. But, in the end, it’s just a supremely enjoyable wine to sip. One of the best wines of the trip, and actually one of the best wines I’ve tasted in years. (98 points)

1978 Justino Henriques Madeira Terrantez - Portugal, Madeira
Smells of old books, library dust and crusty sea salt – quite weird but enjoyable in a unique way. Fresh acid, a strange bitterness to this wine, but not in an unpleasant way. Interesting but frankly strange flavors: hay, candle wax, almond, green olives, seaweed – a crazy wine, but I like it. One of the most oddly intriguing wines I’ve tasted. However, I think this seems to show its age more and I wonder how it will far in a decade or two. (90 points)

1964 Justino Henriques Madeira Boal - Portugal, Madeira
Smells of sweet almond cake, honey, bruised banana and cinnamon. Plump, full, almost tannic on the palate. Flavors of raisin cake, caramel, dates, along with some wood and hay elements. Pure, sweet, silky but stays bright and easy to drink. (91 points)

1964 Justino Henriques Madeira Malmsey - Portugal, Madeira
Smells of sweet raisins, honey, caramel, date and quince paste, some salted pecans (seriously complex). Smooth on the palate but still a bold structure – the liveliness of this wine is impressive. Flavors of dates, plum cake, quince, almond, sweet nougat. Long, bright finish. Wow. (92 points)

The volcanic rocky coastline of Madeira is a stunning, jagged, insane thing to see.

Barbeito Madeira: Tradition Done Differently

This article was first published on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

During a trip to Madeira earlier this month, I visited six of the eight producers on this volcanic Portuguese island. During each visit, I tried to conceptualize each producer’s individual aesthetic within the context of the larger Madeira puzzle.

D’Oliveiras was the classic, wise elder of the group. H.H. Borges was the precise, focused practitioner. Barbeito was the skillful contender, full of potential and excitement.



Barbeito has been around since 1946, but in a land so rich with winemaking history, that actually makes it the youngest producer on the island of Madeira. (A new producer is in the works, but hasn't yet brought any wines to market.) Barbeito is also the most innovative producer on the island, and the firm is offering up a host of options that should entice the next generation of wine-drinkers. Their wines (which total about a quarter-million liters per year) have a common racy appeal and attractive freshness. These are fortified wines that scream "I'm food friendly!" The colors are lighter, ranging from lemon rind to medium orange, and the labels are playful and bright.  

Leandro shows me the estufa, large steel vats, which are
heated with pipes to speed up the traditional process of
exposing the wines to heat and oxygen in barrel rooms.
The process is only used for the most basic, 3-year wines.

The winery is located way up in the precarious hills above Funchal, a stark contrast from downtown street headquarters of Blandy’s, D’Oliveiras and Borges. This facility, opened in 2008, is steely and modern, boasting top-notch equipment like a robotic lugar (a machine that replicates the old tradition of stomping grapes by foot).

“Here we try to combine tradition with innovation,” Leandro Gouveia, Barbeito's wine shop manager, told me during my visit. 

Barbeito was the first Madeira house to use the grape variety Tinta Negra on the label. Tinta Negra, a red grape variety, is the most common grape on the island, but until recently the name was not permitted to be listed on the label. This stems from an old (but odd) perception that Tinta Negra is not a noble grape, like the heralded white varieties Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malvasia and Terrantez. Tinta Negra is handled just like a white grape, and despite its humble stature, the grape is behind some absolutely stunning wines, as Barbeito demonstrates.

Speaking of red grapes, Barbeito is also reintroducing Bastardo to the market. Yes, this awesomely named grape is a historical treasure in Madeira, but unless it’s a bottle from decades (or even centuries) past, you’re not likely to come across the name on a label. Barbeito plans to release small amounts of Bastardo to see if it gains traction.

While I applaud Barbeito for trying some different things, the producer's innovation and experimentation is completely relative. Barbetio’s efforts must been seen within the context of a tightly regulated wine industry. This ain't California. You can't plant any grape anywhere, make a quirky wine and see if people will buy it. To bottle Madeira, one must follow a series of very specific rules. Every bottle of Madeira that goes to market has jumped through lots of hoops.

The Madeira Wine Institute, which regulates Madeira wine's denomination of origin, certifies seemingly every aspect of the grape-growing, winemaking and aging processes. Finished wines are analyzed in a lab to ensure their sugar and acidity levels fall within the approved framework, and a tasting panel approves every wine before it is sold. Sercial is dry and Malvasia is richly sweet, period. You can't bottle a dry Malvasia or a sweet Sercial. This sounds heavy-handed, but Madeira is a uniquely historic wine that is made with unique methods. And the MWI aims to keep it that way.

Rubina Viera, who heads up the Madeira Wine Institute's tasting panel, told me that respecting the special heritage and history of Madeira is crucial to the survival of this wine. "If we sacrifice our history," she said, "we will die."

Barbeito isn't sacrificing anything, but their efforts add a bit more texture to the overall canvas of Madeira wine.

Unfortunately, winemaker Ricardo Freitas wasn't around when I visited. (Levi Dalton recently interviewed Barbeito winemaker Ricardo Freitas on his podcast, I’ll Drink to That. If you’re interested in Madeira and want a ton of in-depth information on Barbeito, this is an awesome resource.) Leandro Gouveia was an excellent host, however, and he poured me a long lineup of Madeira wine to taste.

First, we tasted some young wines, with the goal of analyzing the primary aromas and flavors. These wines had already been fortified to around 17% alcohol, two degrees below the usual bottling point of 19%.

2015 Sercial (sample)
This is a skin-fermented wine in an “extra dry” style already fortified to about 17% alcohol. Smells salty and steely with bright citrus juice and pith. So bright and insanely salty on the palate (I love it!) along with flavors of green apple, orange peel, raw almond and sea salt. Tart, lively, this gets the whole palate firing.

2015 Tinta Negra (sample)

Left: 2015 Tinta Negra. Right: 2010 Tinta Negra. The Madeira aging process of
oxidation, fortification and extended barrel aging does amazing things to the color.

Very interesting to taste a young example of Tinta Negra, before it fully develops into classic Madeira. It’s a ruby color in the glass. Smells of ruby red grapefruit, juicy raspberries, dusty earth and violets. Tastes strong, powerful, with tart red fruits and sweet floral notes. Reminds me of a sample from a fermenting vat, but stronger. This wine was fortified to 17% once it reached 10% alcohol from natural fermentation.  

2010 Tinta Negra (sample)
Interesting contrast to the 2015 Tinta Negra with its golden orange color. After five years of oxidation, this smells of honey, wildflowers, orange peels and almonds. Tart, almost searing, acidity, this is a powerful and demanding wine. All sorts of nuts and dried floral components along with some dried apricot and pineapple elements. Really interesting.

2015 Malvasia (sample)
Awesome to taste a young Malvasia. Smells of so many apples and green flowers. Juicy fruit on the palate, so much tropical and floral elements. A vibrant, juicy wine with lots of sweet complexities. I can see why this is made into a dessert wine. 

Below are my notes on the finished wines I tasted with Leandro.

2004 Barbeito Madeira Tinta Negra Single Harvest Colheita - Portugal, Madeira
Light gold color. Smells of orange peel, sea spray and honey. Rushing acidity on the palate, this tangy wine shows lots of richness as well. Interesting flavor profile of yellow and green apples, oranges, bright lemon, along with notes of pecans and sea salt. A vibrant, punchy style but it’s also quite elegant. (92 points)

2001 Barbeito Madeira Malvasia Single Cask - Portugal, Madeira
Lovely gold color. Smells of tropical fruits, honey and sweet flowers. Rich and sweet but more tropical (less of the brown sugar and caramel). I get apricot jam, honey, date and lingering salted almond flavors. (88 points)

1998 Barbeito Madeira Ribeiro Real Tinta Negra Colheita - Portugal, Madeira
Orange colored. Smells of honey, orange marmalade and almonds. Bright acid on a richly-textured wine. Honey, almond, zesty orange, a distinctive note of red apple peel. So polished and fresh with a long finish. Complex and very enjoyable. (91 points)

N.V. Rare Wine Co. (Vinhos Barbeito) Madeira Historic Series Mr. Madison's Malmsey - Portugal, Madeira
Sweet and floral on the nose with brown sugar and orange marmalade. Full, juicy and sweet but stays restrained and vibrant. Oranges, quince paste, honeys and almond amount to a moderately complex wine. (87 points)

Clearly targeted to the American market, the Historic Series is a  savvy
homage to the historic connection between Madeira and America

N.V. Rare Wine Co. (Vinhos Barbeito) Madeira Historic Series Thomas Jefferson Special Reserve - Portugal, Madeira
Smells of orange peels, clovers and a crazily complex blend of nuts. High on the acid, this is a kicking wine, but it’s also really rich and nutty. The complexity of the mixed nut flavors is really impressive. Awesome stuff. A blend of different varieties in a medium-dry style. (91 points)

N.V. Rare Wine Co. (Vinhos Barbeito) Madeira Historic Series Charleston Sercial Special Reserve - Portugal, Madeira 
Smells of dried nuts, honey and sea salt. Fresh, clean, nutty, well done with a spicy tangerine kick. (89 points)

N.V. Rare Wine Co. (Vinhos Barbeito) Madeira Historic Series Baltimore Rainwater - Portugal, Madeira
Fresh, lively aromas with spiced tea and flowers. Full but a fresher approach (18% alcohol). Smooth and easy to drink, but this is also surprisingly complex for this style. (88 points)

N.V. Rare Wine Co. (Vinhos Barbeito) Madeira Historic Series Savannah Verdelho Special Reserve - Portugal, Madeira
Orange and golden brown colored. Smooth honey and apricot jam aromas. Full and smooth on the palate, a lovely rich style but fresh acid keeps it together. Apricot, quince paste, honey, mixed nuts, this is seriously good stuff. (90 points)

N.V. Rare Wine Co. (Vinhos Barbeito) Madeira Historic Series Boston Bual Special Reserve - Portugal, Madeira
Rich aromatics of sweet brown sugar and pumpkin pie. Full, rich, yet lively and complex. This is one of the zestiest Bual’s I’ve tasted. Flavors of clove, brown sugar, figs and dates mix with bright citrus peel and salty notes. My favorite non-vintage Bual of the trip. (92 points)

1992 Barbeito Madeira Sercial Frasqueira - Portugal, Madeira 

Salty aromas with dried orange and lemon pith. Tart and salty on the palate but smooth as well. Full of rocky, mineral notes along with dried nuts and caramel. Dry, tart, complex, very long finish. (93 points)

1992 Barbeito Madeira Boal Frasqueira - Portugal, Madeira
Whoa, holy volatile acidity! Smells of some crazy varnished wood, white tea, and orange marmalade. Spicy and tangy, this wine holds the VA well. Very fresh, almost tastes dry for a Bual. I get nutty and coffee notes followed by polished wood, baked pear, cinnamon spice. The finish is long and complex. Amazing how Madeira can turn make volatile acidity seem so damn attractive. (92 points)

N.V. Rare Wine Co. (Vinhos Barbeito) Madeira Historic Series New York Malmsey Special Reserve - Portugal, Madeira
Smells of polished wood and tart orange, some baked pear and sweet squash with cinnamon. Full of brown sugar and sweetness on the palate but this is still very balanced and maintains a salty tang on the finish. (90 points)

Note: The Ribeiro Reals are blended with 15% Tinta Negra from the 19th Century.

N.V. Barbeito Madeira Sercial Ribeiro Real 20 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
Light orange color. Smells like sea spray, cut floral stems and raw almonds. Tart, crunchy and crusty on the palate, yet so complex. Tingling mineral notes mix with sliced orange, sweet tea, oyster shell and sea salt. A gorgeous Sercial. (94 points)

N.V. Barbeito Madeira Verdelho Ribeiro Real 20 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
So floral and spicy on the nose, with clove, potpourri and sea spray. Sweet floral palate with rocking acidity, so pure and elegant but gorgeous richness. This is such a balanced wine with a pure beam of oceanic goodness that crashes over the yellow plum and mixed nut flavors. (94 points)

N.V. Barbeito Madeira Boal Ribeiro Real 20 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
Smells like wood varnish and tart oranges. Rich and full but stays quite bright, too. I get yellow plums, baked apples and sweet floral tea. This doesn’t strike my palate as much as the Sercial and Verdelho Ribeiro Reals, but it’s still an impressive effort. (90 points)

N.V. Barbeito Madeira Malvasia Ribeiro Real 20 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
Interesting golden color for a Malvasia (this golden color is a theme with Barbeito, it seems). I get cigar smoke, baked apple and wood varnish on the nose. Tastes like sweet candied tropical fruits but it’s refreshing. I also get cognac-like elements and some polished wood. Lovely freshness for a Malvasia. (91 points)

N.V. Barbeito Madeira Malvazia 20 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
Sweet aromas but pleasantly bitter as well with complex spice and orange rind. Stays fresh despite the richness. Dried apricot, candied orange, pine sap, layered spice and anise cookie flavors. Complex and layered with lots of intrigue. Whoa. (94 points)

N.V. Barbeito Madeira Malvazia "Mãe Manuela" - Portugal, Madeira
What an absolutely gorgeous wine. Props to Ricardo Freitas for putting this wine together to honor his mother – it’s an amazing tribute. Smells of sweet clove, complex almond and pecan, baked squash, dried apricot, polished wood and anise. On the palate this is waxy and sweet but the balance is pristine. The complexity of flavors nears the absurd: nuts, dried fruits, minerals, sea salt, rooibos tea. Smooth, sweet, tangy, precise. This is phenomenal stuff. Includes wine dating back to 1880. (97 points)

So, yeah, it was a good tasting. 

Unfortified: The Still Wines of Madeira

Vines cling to steep hillsides on the north side of Madeira.

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Like few other wines in the world, the wines from the island of Madeira are synonymous with their distinctive method of production. For centuries, producers here have fortified their wines with neutral spirits, then aged the wines in cask for long periods of time, oxidizing them and exposing them to heat. The result is one of the world’s winemaking gems — a seemingly indestructible wine that can age for centuries and retain its exotic characteristics for long after the bottle is opened.

After a week-long trip to this Portuguese island, I have a whole lot to write about these magnificent wines and the island and people responsible for them. But, first, I wanted to explore the state of the island’s still wines. Yes, they make unfortified, dry, white and red table wines on Madeira. The wines ranged from the eccentric and odd to the refreshing and impressive.

The entire island is home to less than 500 hectares of vines, which cling to unreasonably steep hillsides in tiny, terraced vineyards. And still wine production counts for a mere 4-5% of the island’s total production. So there are not a lot of bottles to go around. The still Madeira wines (which fall under the appellation “DOP Madeirense”) are made in very small quantities, and the majority of the wine stays on the island. But the evolution of the still wine movement in Madeira signifies a desire to adapt and innovate. And that’s notable for a tremendously regulated wine industry on an island typified by a stick-to-your-guns respect for tradition and history.

As a collective group, DOP Madeirense white wines are fresh, vibrant, low in alcohol, high in acidity, and laced with citrus peel and floral flavors. Like seemingly everything produced on the island, the wines exude a sense of sea salt and oceanic goodness. As a surfer and lover of all things of the sea, these wines excite me. And they’re perfectly matched to local cuisine like lapas and scabbard fish. The red wines (frequently blends of two to five varieties) tend to have lighter tannic structure, high acidity, crunchy red fruit and plenty of earth and spice elements to go around.

While these wine are quirky, tasty and fit well on the table, it makes little sense for producers of still Madeira wine to export them. Portugal (which everyone here calls the Mainland) produces plenty of Verdelho, for example. And the Mainland has plenty of not-so-treacherous places to grow grapes. Like any major wine category, Mainland Verdelho can be excellent, but there are many serviceable wines with large production and moderate price tags, something Madeira producers simply cannot match. A wine competition between the Mainland and Madeira is like pitting a heavyweight against a bantamweight. Madeira winemakers aren’t eager to step into that ring.

On the other hand, it makes little sense to import brisk, fresh white wines that pair wonderfully with local seafood when producers have access to at least some amount of quality white grapes on the island. More than one million people visit Madeira every year, and those people want to eat and drink everything the island has to offer. Madeira already imports a large amount of the food that appears on the restaurant table. Some producers figure they can make still wines for consumption right here on the island. And I’m glad these wines exist.

Sweet potatoes are a winter-time cover crop in Madeira.

Before coming to the island, I had only heard vague rumors about Madeira’s still wine (mostly dismissive comments from people who had not tasted them). But the roots of the still wine movement date back to the late 1970s. The Madeira Wine Institute (the governing body that regulates and certifies nearly every aspect of grape growing and wine production on the island) began experimenting with more than 50 different varieties to see which would be best suited for the production of unfortified Madeira. The answer, says the Institute’s President, Paula Cabaço, was clear: “Verdelho was the best.”

That certainly seems to be the case. Verdelho shows real promise as a still wine on Madeira. Several producers have bottled crisp, dry, bright examples of this grape, while others have blended it with an interesting mix of grapes (like Arnsburger) not used for the production of Madeira.

No one makes a commercially available still Malvasia, although I’m intrigued about the concept. However, there’s not a ton of the grape planted on the island, and the juice goes on to produce one of the most and long-lived wines on the world as a fortified sweet wine, Malvasia or Malmsey. So producers aren’t rushing to bottle, crisp, still wines for pounding on the patio. Same goes for Sercial and Boal (the other white grapes used for fortified wines).

Considering the strict rules for Madeira production, it’s exciting to see producers experimenting with still wines: blending traditional white grapes with less traditional ones; using grapes like Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon; trying out blends of traditional Portuguese red grapes like Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. The total production is small, but the passion is evident.

While Madeira producers are obviously well equipped with the casks and space needed for the canteiro process (cask aging with exposure to heat and oxygen), many do not have the equipment needed to produce still wine. That’s where the MWI comes in. In 2002, the MWI set up their own winery with all the presses, tanks, etc., capable of producing still wine. And they allow producers to use that equipment to make their own still wine. However, producers have to cover the cost by paying the Institute for this service. Considering producers already have what they need to make fortified wine, this added cost is yet another barrier to the large-scale production of still Madeira wine.

Despite these hurdles, Barbara Spinola of the Institute’s Promotion Department, said there is strong support for the still wine project among Madeira producers. Today, she said, there are now more than 10 different still wine brands.

While the production of still white and red DOP Madeirense wines may has grown, there doesn’t seem to be much long-term prospect for significant growth in this area. To fully invest in making still wines on the island, growers and producers would have to make a sharp turn away from their deeply-held tradition of producing of the world’s best fortified wines. And there’s simply no impetus for making such a dramatic shift.

But a large fortified wine industry and a small still wine industry can both exist in the same place and time. And I hope there continues to be at least some demand for these still Madeira wines. When eating a piping hot plate of lapas, or some steamed scabbard fish, sipping on a brisk local wine is a tremendous experience. And for those looking to expand their palates and try new things, don’t hesitate if you see a rare bottle of DOP Madeirense. It won’t be the best still wine you’ve had all year, but it will certainly offer up a unique island experience. And if you visit Madeira and sit down at a restaurant, don’t think twice: order a DOP Madeirense.

Below are my tasting notes on a few of the still Madeira wines I tasted on a recent trip. All the wines were tasted sighted.

2014 Barbusano Verdelho - Portugal, Madeira, Madeirense 

Bright orange and lemon aromas mixed with salt and white flowers. Tart acid on the palate, this is a brisk and salty wine, verging on intense, with flavors of orange and lemon peels, cheese rind and crusty sea salt. This is going to have a lot of haters, but when served with some sautéed lapas, this was an absolutely stellar pairing, and the unique and, honestly a bit strange, elements of the wine really hit it for my palate. (87 points)

2013 Justino’s “Colombo” - Portugal, Madeira, Madeirense
A peachy and floral nose with lemon curd and saline notes as well. Bright and zesty on the palate with a streak of salty, briny flavors throughout. Lime and peaches topped with chalk and honeysuckle. Paired very nicely with a traditional Madeira lunch of lapas (limpets). A blend of Verdelho and Arnsburger. (86 points)

2014 Justino’s Arnsburger “Colombo” - Portugal, Madeira, Madeirense
Bright and floral on the nose with crisp lemon and lime peel. Bright acid, a rocking verve of minerality makes this wine exciting. Flavors of green apple peel, lime, green pears, topped with chalk dust and quinine. Really fun stuff that fits perfectly on the lunch patio table. Exciting to see what some growers and producers are doing with this rare grape, Arnsburger (a cross between two clones of Riesling). (88 points)

2014 Madeira Wine Company Rosé “Atlantis” - Portugal, Madeira, Madeirense
Really unique aromas of salt, cheese rind and white tea, some funky-peppery elements as well. Creamy texture with tart acid. Flavors of white cherries and lemon peel mix blended with sea salt and brine. It paired well with a rich scabbard fish soup, which brought out the acid even more. A Blandy’s still wine project made from Tinta Negra. (85 points)

2014 Terras do Avô Verdelho - Portugal, Madeira, Madeirense Light gold color. White peach, limes and airy notes of sea spray on the nose. Crisp, crunchy and briny on the palate, this tastes like straight-up salted lemons, crushed shells and big waves crashing on rocks. An absurdly oceanic wine, which makes sense because the grapes were grown 100 meters from the ocean. Considering my love for all things oceanic, yes, I enjoy this wine. But it’s a unique style for sure. (87 points)

2012 Terras do Avô Tinto - Portugal, Madeira, Madeirense
Bright ruby color (no purple here). Smells spicy and peppery with notes of tobacco accenting the bright red currant fruit. Zippy acid, light tannic structure, a great wine to serve slightly chilled. Juicy red fruits but they are tart throughout, topped with notes of dusty earth and spices. A very refreshing red wine that paired nicely with pretty much everything on the table. A mid-Atlantic kitchen sink blend of Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. (87 points)

2013 Beijo Madeirense - Portugal, Madeira, Madeirense
Juicy ruby color. Smells of smoky plums and currant compote, along with some roasted red pepper and cracked black pepper. Fleshy with dusty tannins but so tart and fresh. Vibrant, crunchy red berries mixed with anise, pepper and earthy tones. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Touriga Franca and Tinta Barroca. (87 points)