Wine Reviews: American Grab Bag

This week, I have some wine reviews from New York, California, and Washington.

If you know Finger Lakes wine, you know Dr. Konstantin Frank, a Ukrainian immigrant who contributed so much to viticulture in this country. By producing exceptional wines, and showing what Riesling could do in the Finger Lakes, he earned his spot in the canon of trail-blazing American winemakers. All these years later, the wines are still examples of excellence in American wine.

Napa’s Gratus, contributed wines for this report. This Pope Valley project began in 2010, and the winery now produces about 600 cases per year. These wines were new to me, but I found them vibrant, delicious, and expressive.

Respected Washington producer Tamarack Cellars recently released a 2013 “Emerald Release” Cabernet that blew my mind, and I think it would be a great addition to any Washington Cabernet collector’s cellar.

A few other wines round out this week’s report. I received these wines as trade samples and tasted them sighted.

2017 La Crema Pinot Gris - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Nose shows white peaches, lemon curd, orange blossoms and whipped honey notes. Crisp acidity frames the palate nicely, while the wine sports a waxy, plump texture. Apricots, yellow apples, peach nectar, the fruit is backed up with white pepper and flowers. This shows a lot of depth for a California Pinot Gris at this price point. Lots of fun. (87 points)

2017 Mettler Family Vineyards Albariño Estate Grown - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $20
Medium yellow color. Punchy and tropical on the nose with guava, cantaloupe, pineapple, some yellow flowers and sea salt. Fleshy texture on the palate, but bright acidity, the fruit is rich and generous (creamy yellow apples and pears, guava, pineapple). I get a lot of floral tones, perfume, honey and sea salt. The bright/tropical contrast combination is really working in this Lodi Albarino. (88 points)

2017 Gratus White - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $29
Rich yellow color. Smells of lemon curd, pineapple, glazed pear, with a fascinating note of rainy forest, sea salt, along with some almond and honeycomb. Full-bodied with a plush, waxy texture, yet medium acidity keeps the wine quite lively. Lemon curd, blood orange, pineapple cake and apricot jam flavors, mixed in with spicy clove, white pepper, wet earth, sea salt, some richer almond cake and honey notes as well. Bold but very pretty. 50% Grenache Blanc, 15% Viognier, 15% Marsanne, 15% Roussanne, 5% Picpoul Blanc, aged seven months in old oak. (90 points)

2015 Gratus Malbec - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55

Deep purple color. Smells of plums, gushing blackberries, blueberries, mixed with violets, roses, espresso, eucalyptus, and rocky/earthy elements. I love the acidity on the palate, so fresh, and the velvety tannins make this wine accessible. Suave yet tangy fruit (black cherries, dark currants), topped in violets, mint, eucalyptus, and a blend of black tea, rocky soil and mineral. Oak elements blend in nicely. This is a fresh and vibrant Malbec that really hooked me. 100% Malbec, aged 22 months in 50% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Gratus Petite Sirah - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Rich purple color. Dense aromas of boysenberry, blackberry, blueberry, deep and dark and topped in anise, menthol, ginger snap cookie and vanilla. Full and fleshy on the palate, some serious tannic grip here, while medium acidity moderates. This is a big, saucy, punchy wine with loads of juicy dark fruit, blended well with anise, pepper, vanilla, leather, clove. Dark, bold, this could use three to five years of age. All Petite Sirah aged 22 months in 50% new French oak. (89 points)

2015 Gratus Red - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $75
Medium purple color. Nose boasts juicy black cherries, dark plums, and I get a complex blend of charcoal, graphite, black tea, grilled herbs, clove and cedar. Full but fresh with structured but velvety tannins and vibrant acidity. Juicy black fruit (cherries, currants, plums), whipped together with complex elements of earth, graphite, cocoa, clove, pepper, mint, sweet violets and tobacco. Complex, vibrant, this opens up nicely with time. Lovely now but I’m curious what two or three years will do to this wine. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Malbec, 5% Petite Sirah, aged 22 months in 50% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Gamble Family Vineyards Paramount - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $90
Deep purple color. Deep and saucy on the nose, with roasted fig, blackberry, black currant, all tossed together with warm clove and cinnamon, black tea, vanilla, espresso, mint – a lot going on. Full-bodied with nice grip, but the tannins have rounded edges, and the acidity is really clean, balancing this big wine out really nicely. Flavors of pure blackberry, black currant and roasted fig, backed up with lots of clove, black pepper, spiced black tea, cinnamon sticks, charcoal, graphite scorched earth, vanilla and cedar. So complex, lots of fruit, but serious freshness and aging potential, too. 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot, aged 20 months in 44% new French oak. (92 points)

2015 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Deep purple color. Waves of black cherries and currants on the nose, along with violets, cedar, cocoa, smoky charcoal, and notes of sweet pipe tobacco. Velvety texture on the palate, structured but vibrant, acidity and tannins balance out nicely. Fresh yet rich fruit (black cherries, cassis, dark plums), laced with cedar, espresso, vanilla, sweet pipe tobacco, and a nice earthy-loamy element, too. Nice now but this would do well with 2-4 years in the cellar, and can definitely handle longer. Includes 7% Malbec, 5% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot, aged 20 months in 40% new French, Hungarian and American oak. (91 points)

2017 Dr. Konstantin Frank Rkatsiteli - New York, Finger Lakes
SRP: $17
Pale lemon color. Nose of orange peel, lemons, quince, with notes of lemon verbena, honeysuckle, nettle, bay leaf, sea salt. Plump texture on the palate with racy acidity, the balance is great. Lemons, yellow and green apples, so bright yet the depth of fruit is great. Lots of mineral depth, stones, sea salt, mountain streams. Brisk and sprightly, yet deep and complex. Fascinating stuff. (91 points)

2013 Dr. Konstantin Frank Blanc de Blancs - New York, Finger Lakes
SRP: $30

Light yellow color. Nose boasts yellow apples, apricot, with ginger, baguette, floral perfume, crushed chalk and sea spray. On the palate, this is crisp and nervy with depth that is impressive. Apricot, pear, green and yellow apples, the fruit is accented with these sea salt and crushed oyster shells, along with honeysuckle and ginger and light biscuity notes. Very impressive, a lean style but some impressive depth and that mineral streak is amazing. 100% Chardonnay, aged on the lees four years, 8 g/l dosage. Disgorged September 2018. (91 points)

2016 Dr. Konstantin Frank Riesling Eugenia Dry Riesling - New York, Finger Lakes, Keuka Lake
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. The nose bursts with peach nectar, lime, guava, apricot, along with orange blossom, honey, dusty limestone and new tennis ball. Pristine acidity frames the palate from start to long finish, this is dry, bracing, so brisk and invigorating. Lime, lemon, guava, along with a complex burst of shells, saline, chalk and minerals. Notes of honey and mint add complexity. This is pretty but laser-like, too, offering enjoyment now or, preferably, with 5-10 years of age. Gorgeous Keuka Lake Riesling. 12% alcohol, 0.27% sugar. (92 points)

2013 Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Emerald Release - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $100
Rich purple color. Gorgeous nose of tart currants, blackberries, spiced cranberry sauce, along with serious non-fruit complexity: violets, spearmint, smashed rocks, scorched earth, red pepper flakes, cocoa and vanilla. The palate is full, concentrated, yet lively, with a pure, velvety, effortless feel on the palate despite the density the wine brings. Generous with black cherries, red and black currants, tangy plums, the fruit is plush but shows a tart edge. Complex notes of cocoa, charcoal, rocky soil, flinty minerals, along with cocoa, mint, vanilla. This is gorgeous stuff that will age wonderfully. A blend of wines from all the different vineyard-designated reserve bottlings Tamarack makes, this includes 15% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot, aged four years in 100% new French oak. This vintage is released to celebrate the 20th anniversary of Tamarack Cellars. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: California New Releases

As the year wraps up and 2019 begins, I have one last round-up of new releases from California.

This week, I have another batch from Lake County stalwart producer Jed Steele. I’ve said it before (a bunch of times), and I’ll say it again: some of these wines are so damned good for the money.

I also tasted two vintages of Calla Lily’s Audax Napa Cabernet. The fruit is sourced from a vineyard, first planted in 1995, on the eastern side of Howell Mountain. The vineyard is planted to mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with some Petite Sirah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petite Verdot. They’re big and bold, but I found them vibrant and quite balanced as well.

In this report, I cover the newest vintages of Chalk Hill’s Chardonnay, Louis Martini’s Monte Rosso Vineyard Cabernet, and some new (to me) red wines from Joseph Stephens, a winery in the Santa Clara Valley owned by the Silicon Valley Wine Company.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Eberle Chardonnay Estate - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP: $24

Medium yellow color. Nose shows bruised apples, glazed pear, topped in cinnamon, honey, almond and sea salt. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, while plump texture holds up the rich apple and apricot fruit. Notes of salted almond, graham cracker, sea salt and honeycomb. Rich but still lively. Half stainless steel, half of the wine spends time in 25% new French oak. (87 points)

2016 Chalk Hill Chardonnay - California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill

SRP: $42

Light gold color. On the nose, I get a combination of rich honey, cinnamon, pecans, along with lemon, white flowers and sea salt. Full texture but medium acidity, creamy but crisp, with all sorts of apples, apricots, lemons. Complex notes of sea shells, salted almond, white flowers, and the deeper notes of honeycomb and toasted marshmallow are woven in well. Rich mouthfeel, lots of textural depth, but also maintains an inviting freshness. Full maloactic fermentation and 11 months in 40% new French oak. (90 points)

2017 Steele Wines Pinot Blanc - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County

SRP: $20

Pale straw color. On the nose: peachy! Lots of juicy green melons, lemon curd as well, some orange blossom and clover. On the palate, precise acidity, this is juicy and fun with some nice textural depth, and flavors of green melon, key lime and lemon curd. Notes of orange blossom, perfume, new tennis ball, honeysuckle. This is sourced from Bien Nacido Vineyard, spends six months in old French oak, and is a fascinating and delicious wine, especially for the price. (89 points) 

2016 Steele Wines Shooting Star Cabernet Sauvignon - California, North Coast, Lake County

SRP: $16

Bright purple color. Nose shows tart red and black currants and cherries with a smoky, minty, earthy element. Full but velvety on the palate, medium acidity, a bright and crunchy core of currants and plums. Notes of herbs, spiced coffee mix in nicely. Tangy and earthy finish. It’s hard to find California Cabernet of this quality at this price point. (87 points)

2016 Eberle Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard Selection - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP: $25

Rich purple color. Dark and juicy on the nose with sweet plums, currant jam, smoky charcoal and root beer notes. Medium/full-bodied with soft tannins, moderate acidity, and a chewy texture. Plums and currants and black cherries, ripe and jammy fruit, this is a forward, fun, fan-friendly wine with notes of cola, chocolate and vanilla. 100% Cabernet. (85 points)

2014 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley

SRP: $85

Lively purple color. Beautiful nose of tangy red and black currants, sweet plums, lots of roses, violets, dusty earth, sweet cocoa, cedar – really gorgeous and complex on the nose. This wine is full and juicy but the acidity is lively and crisp, my mouth waters but the tannins provide serious grip. Tangy red and black currants and plums, really pretty, deep fruit, laced with complex elements of eucalyptus, dusty earth, clay, violets, with cocoa and espresso. Lovely now but shows lots of complexity and aging potential. All Cabernet Sauvignon aged 26 months in French and American oak. (91 points)

2014 Arrowood Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley

SRP: $35

Light purple color. Nose show juicy black cherries, plums, kirsch, along with sweet coffee, roasted herbs, vanilla and anise. Full-bodied with a plummy, ripe, juicy feel and velvety tannins, medium-low acidity. Plums and candied black cherries mix with coconut, anise, sweet vanilla coffee and some roasted earth notes. Forward, ripe, fun, crowd-pleasing stuff. Includes 16% Merlot and 4% Malbec aged 24 months in French and American oak. (88 points)

2013 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Audax - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $120

Deep purple color. Nose shows tart black currant, juicy blackberries (gorgeous depth of fruit), with complex notes of mint, scorched earth, cocoa nibs, violets, deep but vibrant scents in here. Full but not heavy (14.5% alcohol), held together with sturdy tannins and surprisingly fresh acidity. Deep, concentrated but tangy black currants and dark plums, the fruit is juicy but really vibrant, and laced with a nice mix of earth, mint, dark chocolate and cedar. Fresh enough to be enjoyed now, but strength for the cellar, surely. (93 points)

2014 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Audax - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $120

Deep purple color. Concentrated fruit on the nose (black currant, blackberries and blueberries), with deep violets, spiced black tea, earth, cocoa and mint. Full-bodied, a bit more powerful in its presence than the 2013, but still vibrant acidity, and the tannins are sturdy but show rounded edges. Pretty depth of fruit (currants, blackberries, plums), but it’s still nice and fresh. Notes of anise, cocoa, earth, mint and cedar. Plush and forward but lively. This could use five to eight years in the cellar, but it’s a lovely wine. 14.7% alcohol. (93 points)

2013 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford - California, Napa Valley, Rutherford

SRP: $70

Deep purple color. Rich purple color, with dark, concentrated blueberry, black cherry, along with anise, eucalyptus, dark chocolate, cocoa and earth. Full-bodied, significant tannins but it maintains a velvety feel, medium-low acidity. A dark, saucy style with blueberries, cassis, blackberries, along with notes of mint, eucalyptus, sweet cocoa, cedar. Rich and delicious but the balance lines up nicely here. Hedonistic now, but this could do some fun things over the next five years. Includes Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, aged 28 months in 67% new French oak. (90 points)

2014 Bootleg Wine Works Red - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $38

Medium purple color. Heck of a lot of plums and blackberries on the nose, with roasted fig, smoky charcoal, vanilla and mint. Full-bodied on the palate, this wine is all about the velvety mouthfeel, medium-low acidity, along with juicy plums, black cherries, blueberries, juicy and plump. Notes of mocha, scorched earth, vanilla, roasted chestnut. Big and hedonistic but well-made and undeniably yummy. A blend of Syrah, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 18 months in French and American oak. (89 points)

2014 Jason Stephens Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Central Coast, Santa Clara Valley

SRP: $34

Light purple color. Aromas of spice tea, anise and cocoa underneath currant jam, cherry compote, with tobacco and magic marker notes. Full but plush, chewy yet moderating acidity. Plums and currant compote laced with chai, clove, sweet coffee, anise and cedar. Bold but vibrant, cool stuff from Santa Clara! Includes 10% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 6% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc, aged 30 months in 25% new American oak. (88 points)

2014 Jason Stephens Winery Meritage - California, Central Coast, Santa Clara Valley

SRP: $34

Rich purple color. Aromas of saucy black cherries, dark plums, with a mix of floral potpourri, sweet cocoa, roasted and candied nuts. Full but suave on the palate with rich, plush tannins and medium/low acidity. Plummy, saucy black fruit mixed with cocoa, coffee, sweet pipe tobacco and herbs. Lovely, juicy, rich but accessible. 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 10% Malbec, 10% Carmenere, 10% Cabernet Franc, aged 36 months in oak. (88 points)

2014 Jason Stephens Winery Merlot - California, Central Coast, Santa Clara Valley

SRP: $24

Light purple color. Gushing nose of plums, black and red cherries, along with cinnamon, sweet herbs and vanilla. Full but smooth on the palate, velvety tannins, moderate acidity, and plenty of currants, plums, raspberry jam, backed up with anise, violets, vanilla. Juicy and suave fruit but a liveliness pervades the wine, too. Includes 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec, aged 36 month in 25% new oak. (88 points)

2016 French Bar Petite Sirah - California

SRP: $16

Bright purple color. Nose shows sweet cherries, boysenberry, with cola and black pepper glaze. Full and juicy on the palate with fleshy tannins and medium acidity. Flavors of baked figs, plum cake, tart currants, mixed with coffee and cola. Fun, approachable style. Includes 5% Teroldego and 2% Petite Verdot, aged eight months in French oak. (85 points)

2016 Steele Wines Shooting Star Zinfandel - California, North Coast, Lake County

SRP: $14

Dark ruby color. Aromas of plump plums, raspberries, juicy cherries, with roses, rhubarb and tobacco notes. Full-bodied but really vibrant, the acidity sings, and the tannins and smooth and velvety tannins. Lots of juicy, ripe but vibrant red berry fruit mixed in with tobacco, cocoa, mint and rose petals. Loving this ripe but crisp feel. Aged eight months in 20% new American and Hungarian oak. (87 points)

2016 Steele Wines Zinfandel Writer's Block - California, North Coast, Lake County

SRP: $18

Bright purple color. Juicy and plummy on the nose with raspberries and black cherries, topped in spicy tobacco, black pepper, roses, rhubarb. Juicy and approachable on the palate with light tannins and fresh acidity, and a nice mix of tangy raspberries, plums and black cherries. Smoky, tar, tobacco and floral tones mixed in nicely. Vibrant and fresh but fruity and fun. Aged 12 months in 15% new oak. (87 points)

2015 Markus Wine Co. Domo - California, Central Valley, Lodi

SRP: $39

Bright ruby color. Lovely aromas of spiced black tea, anise, violets and earth over tart red currants and raspberries. On the palate, this is crisp and vibrant, medium-bodied, with velvety tannins, but packed with flavor. Plummy with raspberries and black cherries, topped in complex notes of anise, cocoa, violets, pepper, earth. Deep mineral notes. complex yet deep and bright. This is gorgeous. Carignan, Petite Sirah and Syrah. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: New Releases from California

We’re headed back to California again for another roundup of samples I’ve received this summer.

This report includes some new releases from well-known Sonoma Chard and Pinot producer J Vineyards, Napa stalwarts Robert Mondavi and Trefethen, and a few other wines sprinkled in.

I received these wines as samples and tasted them sighted.

2017 Chalk Hill Chardonnay - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $24
Rich gold color. Powerful waves of lemon curt, apricot and orange marmalade, but also some lime, sea salt, chalk dust, honeycomb, peanut brittle. The palate is rich in texture, velvety and smooth but the acid tingles. Lots of lemon curd and candied orange with notes of ginger, almond cake, honey, mixed with sea spray. The flavors, depth, balance, it’s all quite lovely, especially for the price. Aged eight months in 30% new oak. (90 points)

2016 Gehricke Chardonnay- California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $32
Medium yellow color. Plump aromas of apricots, yellow apples, bruised pear, with sea salt, honeybutter and almond. Rich texture on the palate but medium acidity, along with juicy yellow fruits (pineapple, yellow apples and bruised pear). Notes of cinnamon, toasted almond, sea salt, honey, rich but not too heavy. I love the underlying salty, mineral tones. Aged 20 months in French oak. (89 points)

2016 J Vineyards & Winery Chardonnay - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $31
Medium yellow color. Ooh, I love the bright floral, sea salt, crushed almond shells and some honey, on top of lemon curd and yellow apples. On the palate, a lovely creamy texture makes this so pleasurable, but the freshness of the acidity cuts through nicely. Lemon curd, nectarine, juicy yellow apples, mixed with notes of almond, salted peanut, white flowers and honey, some mineral undertones add complexity. This producer, and this wine in particular, seem so reliably good to me. Aged nine months in 25% new French oak. (90 points)

2017 Rarecat Rosé Jennifer - California
SRP: $36
Pale copper color. Aromas of peach, lime pith, nettle, roses and candy corn. Crisp and lively on the palate this is a steely and spice rose with flavors of green melon and peaches. Floral tones, white pepper, nettle, some sliced cucumber notes. Fun stuff, balanced nicely. 100% Grenache rosé. (87 points)

2014 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville - California, Napa Valley, Oakville
SRP: $63
Rich purple color. Gorgeous waves of currants and blackberries, along with eucalyptus, cocoa powder, mint, gravelly earth and vanilla. Full but suave, rich texture with chewy tannins but it stays lively. Juicy black currants, tangy blackberries, this is fruit and dark but also sports cocoa, earth, eucalyptus, mint and graphite. Lots going on here but it goes down quite easily. Ready to drink or hold for a few years. Includes 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Merlot, aged 18 months in about 30% new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Trefethen Merlot - California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll
SRP: $40
Light purple color. Bursts with juicy black cherries, blackberry, dark but tart notes, with cocoa, coffee and scorched earth. Surprisingly fresh on the palate with crisp acidity, medium-light tannins and tart black cherries and blackberry fruit. Notes of chewing tobacco, mint, scorched earth and vanilla coffee add some complexity. So fresh, goes down very easily, ready to drink. Aged 18 months in 40% new French, American and Hungarian oak. (88 points)

2016 Gehricke Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $35
Light purple color. Aromas of sweet red and tart black cherries, with violets, vanilla, cracked pepper, coffee grounds. Full-bodied with velvety tannins and refreshing acidity that makes the wine pop. Sweet red cherries, tart dark plums, the fruit is mixed in nicely with black pepper, bay leaf, cocoa, violets and vanilla. Juicy and toasty but that fresh acidity really rocks. Includes 14% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot, aged 18 months in French oak. (88 points)

2016 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $40
Bright ruby color. Very pretty on the nose but also lots of deep fruit, with black cherries, strawberries, lots of rhubarb and cola, but some violets, notes of clove and black tea. Full and suave with fresh acidity and smooth tannins, lots of red cherries, red plums, some strawberry jam, but the fruit stays fresh. Notes of cola, sarsaparilla, clove, earthy, black tea notes. Very nice for the price, delicious stuff. Aged nine months in 30% new French oak. (90 points)

2015 French Bar Petite Sirah - California
SRP: $19
Deep purple color. Rich and plummy on the nose with jammy blackberries, blueberries, notes of anise and cocoa. Plush and rich on the palate with suave tannins and medium-low acidity. Plums, blackberries and blueberries abound, mixed with pepper, anise, spicy dry rub and grill smoke. Fun, tasty stuff that would be perfect for a late-summer grill-out. All Petite Sirah, aged 13 months in French oak. (87 points)

2016 French Bar Gold Dust Red - California
SRP: $19
Rich purple color. Dark and sweet on the nose with blackberry jam, boysenberry sauce and roasted black currants, sweet violets, dark chocolate, roasted coffee. Deep and saucy on the palate with fleshy tannins and surprisingly fresh acidity. Black cherries, blackberries and roasted figs, backed up with cocoa, sweet coffee and violets. Fruity and rich but stays lively, too. 82% Petit Verdot and 18% Teroldego aged eight months in French oak. (87 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

More New Releases from California

This week’s report includes four wines from Sonoma-based producer Smith Story, which is the project of husband-wife duo Eric Story and Ali Smith-Story. It was my first time tasting these wines, and I found a lot to like.

Eighty-Four offers up a few well-priced and exciting wines from Napa. A cooperative effort between Doug Shafer and winemaker Elias Fernandez, these varietal wines are named for the year in which they began making wine together, and they’re definitely worth seeking out.

Lastly, we have two 2016 offerings from Napa’s Frank Family (which further solidify my love for the 2016 vintage in Napa), and a big, delicious Cab from Kelly Fleming.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Smith Story Sauvignon Blanc - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $25
Pale yellow color. Aromas burst with lime, apricot, guava, cut flower stems, chalk dust and honeysuckle. Zippy and fresh but pleasantly plump texture with flavors of lemon-lime, green pears, apricot and guava. Notes of sea salt, mineral, nettle and honeysuckle elevate the complexity. Very well-integrated and balanced. The fruit comes from Knights Valley and Sonoma Mountain AVAs. (88 points)

2015 Smith Story Pinot Noir Thorn Ridge - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $75
Light ruby color. Nose shows chilled strawberries, wild raspberry, red apple peel, rose bush, potpourri, some sweet incense. Medium-bodied, so clean and crisp on the palate, with tangy acidity and smooth tannins. Raspberries, cherries, red apple, juicy but crisp fruit laced with cola, sage, roses and rhubarb. Lovely, fresh, inviting, nuanced. 16 months in French Oak (25% new). (90 points)

2015 Smith Story Cabernet Franc - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
SRP: $40
Deep ruby color. Aromas of fresh red plums, red and black cherries, with roses, cola, some sweet pipe tobacco. On the palate, fresh and crisp and clean with dusty tannins and cool red fruits (strawberries, raspberries, cherries). Rhubarb, pepper, cola, roses and spicy tobacco add complexity, while mushroom notes come out with time. Lots of fruit and flavor but fresh. The wine is aged 20 months in used French barrels. (89 points)

2015 Smith Story Cabernet Sauvignon Pickberry Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
SRP: $60
Deep ruby color. Smells like tangy black cherries, red and black currants, along with violets, eucalyptus, mint, some spice rub and clove. Such freshness and liveliness on the palate with structured tannins, the balance is great, and this is such an integrated wine. Plump blackberry and tangy red and black currants, topped with violets, roasted chestnut, spicy clove, tobacco, sweet herbs and potpourri. Wow this is a juicy, spicy, complex Cabernet. aged in 2-4 year old French barrels for 21 months before bottling. (91 points)

2016 Frank Family Vineyards Chardonnay - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $38
Medium yellow color. Nose of almond butter, nougat, vanilla and white flowers, on top of creamy yellow apples and pears. Juicy and plump texture on the palate, but fresh acidity, creamy but not heavy. Yellow pears and apples, orange marmalade, the fruit is mixed with flavors of honey, almond, candle wax and clove. Powerful and packed with richness but it is put together so well and maintains freshness. (90 points)

2016 Frank Family Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $38
Deep ruby color. Aromas of black cherries, raspberry, rhubarb, black tea, tobacco and cedar. Full-bodied with plush tannins and moderating acidity. Tart cranberry sauce and rich black cherry fruit, forward and bold but nuanced. Notes of rhubarb, cola, tobacco, white pepper, cedar. Rich and fruity but complex and enticing. Yum. (90 points)

2017 Eighty Four Wines Albariño - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $28
Rich yellow color. Gorgeous aromatics of apricots, green melon, honey, salted almond, so many fresh white and yellow flowers. Plush texture, lots of depth here, but the acidity is brisk and refreshing. Glazed apple, apricot, white peach, the fruit is topped in yellow flowers, salted almond, a racy streak of minerals and chalk dust. The complexity is really impressive, and it’s downright delish. Another great example of what Albarino can do it Napa. (90 points)

2014 Eighty Four Wines Malbec - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $48
Rich purple color. Nose boasts lots of yummy fruit (blackberry, black cherry, dark plums) with complex elements of smoky charcoal, eucalyptus, violets, espresso – lovely aromatics. Full-bodied (15.1% alcohol) but the texture is smooth and the acidity keeps it fresh. Gushing blackberry and blueberry with menthol, eucalyptus, roasted coffee, violets, potting soil, vanilla, chipotle spice rub – serious complexity in here, but it’s plush, forward and delicious and goes down so easily. All Malbec aged 20 months in 50% new French oak. (91 points)

2012 Eighty Four Wines Petite Sirah - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $50
Dense purple color. Aromas of tart black currants, dark plums, a dark and earthy note, like smashed rocks and wet forest floor, some anise and espresso – complex and awesome aromatically. Full-bodied (of course!), the tannins are built to last, but the edges are rounded out nicely. The fruit is dark but tart, like crunchy dark plums and currants. Notes of anise, espresso, cedar, graphite. A massive wine at 15.8% alcohol, but its remarkably lively. All Petite Sirah aged 40 months in 100% new French oak. (91 points)

2014 Kelly Fleming Wines Big Pour - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $90
Rich purple color. Gobs of fruit on the nose (currants, blackberries, gushing plums), along with complex notes of eucalyptus, graphite, cedar and vanilla. Bold presence on the palate, the wine has a smooth feel though, with velvety tannins and fresh acidity that keeps it tangy. Tart black cherries and currants with juicy blackberries and plums, rich but fresh. Complex notes of cedar, coffee, vanilla, graphite, eucalyptus. As the name indicates, this is absolutely delish and goes down so easily, but it sports significant complexity as well. Cabernet with 11% Malbec and 8% Syrah. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Awesome Arizona Wines from Aridus

Scott and Joan Dahmner founded Aridus (a derivation of the Latin word for dry or arid) in 2012 in Wilcox, Arizona. Aridus sources grapes from about 40 acres of estate vineyards above Willcox, Arizona (which sits at an impressive 5,200 feet in elevation). They also crush grapes from other vineyards in Arizona, and some grapes from New Mexico and California.

Built in a re-purposed apple warehouse, the Aridus winery produces a dizzying array of wines, everything form a New Mexico Pet-Nat Malvasia Bianca to Cochise County, Arizona Syrah and Malbec.

2017 marked the fifth vintage for this winery, and the first for their estate vineyard white wines (Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Malvasia Bianca). This ambitious effort represents, for me, the evolving face of Arizona wine, which I find to be a dynamic wine scene full of exciting producers and diverse, delicious wines.

Why Arizona? “Hot days, cool nights, minerality in the soil,” Proprietor Scott Dahmer explains. “I believe Arizona is the next up and coming grape growing region which will produce unique, world-class delicious wines.” (For more details on my recent Arizona wine country jaunts, and why I tend to agree with Scott’s strong statement, check out this article I wrote earlier this year.)

I received these wines as trade samples and tasted them sighted.



2016 ARIDUS Malvasia Bianca - New Mexico, Mimbres Valley
SRP: $37
Light yellow color. Wow, these aromatics pop! Limes, apricot, white peach, guava, all sorts of flowers and candied fruits. I like the plump texture on the palate, but the bright acidity is really refreshing – apricots, white peach, yellow raisins, matched with lots of white and yellow fruit blossoms. An impressive interpretation of this grape from a vineyard in New Mexico. Eight months in stainless steel, 13.7% alcohol. (88 points)

2016 ARIDUS Rosé - Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $30
Light strawberry color. Aromas of peaches, roses, cut flowers, lively and fresh. Juicy and creamy texture on the palate, plump abut dry, bright acidity. Flavors of ripe apples, white peaches, strawberries, laced with spiced apple, clove and honeyed tea. Rich but zesty, a really interesting buttery characteristic to this rose, a richer style but delicious and quite balanced. A blend of Mourvedre and Grenache. (87 points)

2015 ARIDUS Malbec - Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $37
Light purple color. Aromas of spiced cranberry sauce, tart plums, violets, sweet cola and molasses. Juicy texture, light tannins, medium acidity, but this is a jammy, rich Malbec with elements of espresso grounds, vanilla bean, fruitcake, some earthy charcoal elements. Tasty stuff. Aged 19 months in a mix of new French and new/used American oak. (87 points)

2014 ARIDUS Petite Sirah - Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $40
Dark purple color. Aromas of tart black currant, juicy black cherries, and deep earthy notes (charcoal, scorched earth, loam, black pepper). The palate bold and grippy as expected, but the chocking thing about this wine to me is the freshness, really impressive. The fruit is dark and concentrated but also tangy, and mixed well with flavors of mesquite, sweet cocoa, black pepper and mocha, finishes with notes of stony minerals. Wow, I am really surprised by how good this wine is. Hats off. 14.2 % alcohol, all Petite Sirah, aged 16 months in 40% new French oak. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

This week is another hodgepodge of wines from around the world — mostly from California and New Zealand.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2014 Grgich Hills Chardonnay - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $43
Light gold color. Pretty aromatics of lemon curd, juicy white peaches, limes, green apples – rich and juicy fruit bit lots of crushed chalk, rocks, minerals, honey butter. Bold and juicy on the palate but vibrant, lip-smacking lovely balance. Tangy lime and lemon play off baked pear, guava, white honey, nougat, vanilla contrast with mountain stream and chalky, dusty minerals. Rich but zesty, with a long, crisp and lightly-toasted finish. A perennial performer when it comes to Napa Chards that I love, and this 2014 (like many other wines from Napa) is excellent. Aged 10 months in 40% new French oak. (92 points)

2014 Mount Veeder Winery Reserve - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $100
Bold purple color. On the nose: black currant, saucy plums, smoky charcoal, black pepper, violets and vanilla. The palate is full and supported by a deck of solid tannins, although some moderate acidity and juicy fruit help balance it all out. Black currant, tangy blackberries, roasted fig paste, the fruit melds with charcoal, vanilla, cedar shavings, cocoa powder, and dark roast coffee grounds. Complex, long, mineral and earth finish – those mountain vineyard qualities really show through in this wine. Delicious but this will really improve over the next four to five years easily, and hold for quite some time. Cabernet with 7% Malbec and 4% Petit Verdot, aged 20 months in all new French oak. This is a reliably excellent wine, vintage in and out, but the 2014 is gorgeous. (93 points)

2014 Franciscan Estate Magnificat - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of violets, sage, lavender, cola and cedar on top of plums and tangy black currants. Bold and punchy, chewy tannins, but surprising freshness. Plush but tangy black currants and blackberries, laced with cedar, cocoa powder, charcoal and iron. Notes of cedar, star anise and cola woven in nicely, with a deep, earthy finish. Lovely but could use two-to-four years of cellaring. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon blended with Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, aged 20 months in 70% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Shafer TD-9 - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Deep purple color. Rich waves of blackberry and black cherry on the nose, fig paste, violets, vanilla, rocky notes and potting soil. The palate is velvety and suave, solid tannic structure but so, so smooth, with moderate acidity. Black cherry, cassis, wild blueberry, gorgeous fruit, laced with graphite, violet petals, pencil lead, clove, and backed up with vanilla bean and coffee. Long life ahead but surprisingly gorgeous right out of the bottle. A blend of 56% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Malbec. Aged 20 months in all new French oak. (93 points)

2015 Parducci 85 - California, North Coast, Mendocino
$45 (available only at winery)
Light purple color. Lovely, warm, inviting aromas of roasted figs and plums, currants, cola, dark chocolate and earthy/charcoal notes. Plush texture despite solid tannins, medium acidity. Gushing black cherry and blackberry mixed with cola, roasted chestnut, vanilla, dark chocolate shavings. I get a complex mix of clove, cinnamon and earthy, rocky notes. Lovely now but I’d like to age this at least a few years, but it’ll improve for many. 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc, aged in 30% new American oak. A special release honoring this iconic Mendocino winery’s 85th anniversary. (91 points)

2004 Parducci Petite Sirah True Grit - California, North Coast, Mendocino County
$50
Rich purple color. Love the smoky, savory aspects on the nose (grilled bell peppers, black pepper, mushroom, charred meat), on top of some black currant and blackberry compote flavors. Full and bold but has fleshed out with age, showing moderately-structured tannins with rounded edges and medium/low acidity. Black cherry and dark plum fruit is still holding on, but the fruit is doused in grilled meats, beef drippings and cracked black pepper, along with mushroom broth and fallen leaves. Gorgeous non-fruit complexity, but this wine isn’t done yet – it’s still put together well for at least five more years. Includes 3% co-fermented Viognier, aged in about 25% new French and American oak. (92 points)

2005 Parducci Petite Sirah True Grit - California, North Coast, Mendocino County
$50
Rich purple color. Concentrated aromas, but they open up to show more blackberry and black currant fruit, backed up by black pepper, grilled steak, anise and fennel. Full but suave, the tannins aren’t harsh but the grip is serious, medium-low acidity. Black currant and black cherry fruit is still there and delicious, but matched in intensity by a combination of pepper, leather, charcoal, beef brisket. Dry, structured finish with black olive and espresso. Time in the cellar ahead, but the fruit may fade before the tannins do. Still very impressive. Includes 8% Grenache, aged 18 months in old French and American oak. (90 points)

N.V. Locations Sauvignon Blanc NZ-6 - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $20
Medium straw color. Huge aromatic burst of ruby red grapefruit, guava, lime, along with sliced jalapenos and onion grass. Medium-bodied, bright and mouth-watering with lime, ruby red grapefruit and white peach flavors. Some honeysuckle mixes with sea salt, floral perfume, sliced bell peppers. More depth and dynamism that a lot of New Zealand Sauv Blancs in this price point. Impressive. The fruit comes from Wairau, Awatere and Waihopai valleys. (88 points)

2016 Discovery Point Sauvignon Blanc - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
Aromas of lemons, apricots, white flowers, sea salt, less of the spicy green Marlborough calling card (just a hint of white pepper), this is a brighter and oceanic aromatic profile, and I love it. On the palate, fresh acidity and juicy fruit (lemon, guava, green melon), along with white tea, honeysuckle, sea salt. Slight note of white pepper. A juicy, vibrant, oceanic, delicious Marlborough Sauv Blanc. (88 points)

2015 Discovery Point Pinot Noir - New Zealand, North Island, Wairarapa, Martinborough
The nose shows tart strawberries, raspberry jam, some rose hips, sage, mushroom, light roast coffee, an interesting display. Medium+ bodied, light-dusty tannins, moderate acidity. Black cherry and raspberry jam, along with cola, rose hips, sweet clove, caramelized mushrooms. Juicy, easy-drinking but also vibrant and quite complex. Good to drink now but this should do some interesting things over the next 1-2 years. (89 points)

2016 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Casillero del Diablo Reserva - Chile, Maipo Valley
SRP: $11
Bright ruby color. Aromas of smoky cherries and sweet plums, bell pepper, cola, sweet coffee, some cigar box. Light-medium bodied with soft tannins and medium acid. Tangy cherries and red plums mix with bell pepper and red peppers. Lean, a bit tart, but fun stuff for the price. (85 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

A Grab Bag of California Wines

Near the turn of the year, I had a bunch of unrelated California wines left to taste, and none of them seemed to fit into a coherent category. So I threw them together for a grab bag tasting.

I’ve got a few from Gamling & McDuck, a label with an off-the-wall aesthetic approach but seriously good juice in the bottle. We also take a look at some wines from Jamieson Ranch, which sources grapes from Napa, Sonoma, and beyond, and produces several brands at varied price points. Lastly, Chronic Cellars makes an appearance; these wines are a few steps up from some of the big brands that purvey those residual sugar-laden, generic California AVA wines. These are jammy, fun, un-structured wines for easy-drinking. Oh, and a 2013 Cardinale Cabernet — whoa.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2015 Gamling & McDuck Chenin Blanc Mangel's Ranch - California, North Coast, Suisun Valley

SRP: $26
Pale yellow color. Gorgeous aromatics of dandelion, cut flower stems, honeysuckle, chalk dust, drizzled over lemon, apple and apricot. Medium-bodied, vibrant acidity keeps this wine so crisp but there’s a pleasant richness and lees-aging notes of waxiness to the texture as well. Green and yellow apples and lemons mix with chalk, minerals, honey, and notes of flowers and herbal tea. Beautiful stuff with a long, crisp, blissful finish. (90 points) 

2015 Reata Chardonnay - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $20
Light gold color. Smells of salted lemon, apricot, dandelion and honeysuckle. Creamy texture on the palate but lots of fresh acidity. The creamy pear, tart apple and apricot fruit is topped in toasted nuts, sea shells and honeysuckle. For $20, this Chardonnay brings a lot of freshness and depth. (87 points) 

2014 Jamieson Ranch Vineyards Chardonnay Light Horse - California
SRP: $15
Light gold color. Aromas of baked apple and pear, some salted nuts and honeysuckle. Juicy and plump on the palate but moderate acidity freshens it up, and I get flavors of yellow apples, apricots and baked pear, with some cinnamon, nuts and honeysuckle thrown in. For a $15 generic California AVA Chard, this has a lot of personality. (86 points) 

2014 Gamling & McDuck Cabernet Franc Pickberry Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
SRP: $36
Deep ruby color. Aromas of tar, violets and pepper on top of juicy black cherries, with some sweet clove, graphite and cherry wood thrown in. Medium-bodied, moderate tannic structure, fresh acidity, refreshingly balanced. Tart but so juicy with these black cherries and roasted plums, along with plenty of chewing tobacco, oregano, black pepper. Vibrant yet rich, structured but so easy to sip right out of the bottle. Delish! (90 points) 

2013 Jamieson Ranch Vineyards Pinot Noir Light Horse - California
SRP: $15
Medium ruby color. Aromas of juicy cherries and raspberries, sweet roses, cola and rhubarb. Soft tannins meet fresh acid on the palate with simple but pleasant cherries and strawberries, juicy appeal yet fresh. Notes of cola and rhubarb. Lacks that sweet baked fruit and fake character of a lot of generic California AVA Pinot Noirs, which is a good thing. Toss the Meomi, I’ll take a glass of this. (85 points) 

2014 Jamieson Ranch Vineyards Malbec Whiplash - California
SRP: $15
Light purple color. Aromas of sweet cherries, plum cake, cola, coffee, vanilla. On the palate, light tannins combine with medium acid and soft, juicy blueberry and candied cherry. Sweet and office party-friendly, but lacks personality and depth. (79 points) 

2015 Jamieson Ranch Vineyards Whiplash Red - California
SRP: $15
Juicy purple color. Aromas of jammy raspberries, cherries, sweet cola, vanilla and Swedish fish candy. Full-bodied, soft tannins, medium acidity, this is a jammy, simple wine with flavors of candied black and red fruit, Fig Newton cookies, cola and sweet coffee. (81 points)

2014 Jamieson Ranch Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Double Lariat - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Rich purple color. Smells dark and juicy with black cherries and plums, vanilla coffee, charcoal and dark chocolate. Full-bodied with velvety and approachable tannins, medium acidity. Juicy dark fruit (blackberry and black cherries), shows some tanginess, and the fruit is backed up by sweet coffee, vanilla, and some earthy charcoal notes. Plush and smooth yet shows some liveliness, and could likely improve for a few years. (87 points)

2013 Cardinale - California, Napa Valley

Credit: Cardinale.

SRP: $250
Gorgeous purple color. Intoxicating and deep aromas of rich black cherries and currants, sweet pipe tobacco, eucalyptus, violets, loamy soil – so much to unpack. The palate is full and structured marvelously but there’s freshness despite the density. The black currant and cherry fruit is pure, complex and delicious, smooth but maintains a tart edge. Crazy complex elements of cedar, tobacco, vanilla, crushed rocks, hot clay, loamy soil, menthol, cigar lounge and leather jacket. Wow. Cardinale is a stunner as always, but in 2013 they really killed it. This is fantastic, and has so much to show over the next five-to-ten years. 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot aged 19 months in all new French oak. (96 points)

2015 Chronic Cellars Sofa King Bueno - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Aromas of jammy rasberries, black cherries, red hot candies, sweet vanilla coffee and black pepper glaze. Full-bodied and chewy with easy-drinking tannins and medium/low acidity. The black cherries and raspberries and candied and jammy and topped with cola, coffee, pepper glaze. Simple, forward, fun if you like this style. A blend of 52% Syrah, 25% Grenache, 13% Petite Sirah, 7% Mourvedre. (85 points)

2015 Chronic Cellars Dead Nuts - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $24
Light purple color. On the nose: raspberries, juicy plums, smoke, cola, violets and chocolate. Full but smooth and velvety on the palate with medium/low acid and soft tannins. Candied cherries and raspberry jam mix with vanilla cola, pie filling and a note of sweet tobacco and earth. A bit sweet but tasty and probably a good office party kind of wine. 81% Zinfandel, 13% Tempranillp 6% Petite Sirah. (85 points) 

2015 Chronic Cellars Purple Paradise - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $15
Light purple. Smells like raspberry and strawberry jam, some peppery spice, sweet coffee and red licorice candy. Chewy texture on the palate, soft tannins, low acidity. “Purple” is right! I get jammy fruits and laffy taffy with coffee and some spicy, earthy notes underneath. Simple, sweet, fun. (85 points)

2015 Chronic Cellars Petite Sirah Suite Petite - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $15
Medium purple color. Aromas of sweet blackberries and plums, along with coffee, vanilla and chocolate shavings. Medium-bodied and juicy but shows hints of freshness. Dark and saucy black cherry and currant fruit, but shows some vibrancy, and I get notes of sweet clove, pepper, coffee grounds, earth. Unserious but seriously delicious. Less candied than the others in the lineup. Includes 15% Syrah. (86 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.