Wine Reviews: Father's Day selections

If you’re a wine-loving dad, you know your palate best. Or if you’re buying a gift for a wine-loving dad, you likely know their palate better than anyone. But in advance of Father’s Day, I’ve selected a wide range of wines that I think dads can nerd out about, enjoy, and pair with whatever you’re up to.

I’m a huge fan of Austrian Rieslings and Gruners, and I really enjoyed geeking out over a quartet of wines from Domane Wachau. They’re all iconic single-vineyard wines from 2021, made by an historic producer that purely express their grape and terroir. And, especially given the quality, they’re priced incredibly well – what dad doesn’t like saving money? Picking up a mixed six-pack of single-vineyards could give you a great tasting lineup for a party with some summer seafood or grilled chicken and veg.

Also included are some delicious reds for grill-outs and gatherings, and I highlight some serious values. From a fascinating producer in New Mexico, Vara, who blends Spanish and California grapes, to delightful values from Chile and Argentina, there should be something in here you’ll enjoy.

Lastly, I want to highlight some Sonoma Pinots (and a Chard) because, well, they’re just great. I visited Sonoma in April with my brother and his family, and we dads had a great time cooking with local ingredients and tasting local wines. And when I’m cooking (which is usually the case in my house), and I’m opening Sonoma Pinot – everyone is happy.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted, except for the Wachau white wines, which were tasted single-blind.

Wachau White Wines

2021 Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Ried Liebenberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
SRP: $27
Vibrant yellow color. The aromas are spritely with lemon, green apples, guava, topped with rushing notes of limestone, oyster shells, and nuances of celery seed, mint, it all gets the palate salivating. There’s a lovely creaminess to the mouthfeel on this wine, but the acidity is so crisp, with delicious crunchy fruit, limes, lemon, green apples. A razor-like focus, with rushing mineral intensity, talc, crushed stones, along with spicy herbal elements that accentuate the overall package. This is a beautiful young Gruner at a great price, and if you’re looking to get deeper into this grape or region, this is a perfect place to start. (91 points IJB)

2021 Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Ried Kellerberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
SRP: $50
Rich yellow color. So many stony, mineral, oyster shell vibes here (love it), with generous but zesty pineapple and lemon, and there are all these cool tones that come out with air: green onion, bread crumbs, hints of basil, yellow flowers – just a lot going on. Racy acidity frames the wine well, as a generous texture and beautiful fruit play their game (guava, papaya, drizzled in lime). I get a complex host of crushed shells, chalk dust, flinty, mineral, stony elements. And there are these white tea, mint, shaved ginger nuances as well. Beautiful stuff and a long-ager for sure, as everything is deep but balanced. (93+ points IJB)

2021 Domäne Wachau Riesling Federspiel Ried Bruck - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
SRP: $27
Medium yellow color. The nose pops with sweet guava, fresh green apples, and limes, along with crushed rocks, shells, a sweet honeyed tone but the wine still smells so fresh and inviting. The palate has bright acidity and a bed of sweet yellow apple, white peach, and kiwi fruit. Balanced and fresh with a nice mix of crushed sweet tarts, chalk dust, limestone, mountain riverbed with stones and all that good stuff. Crushable and delicious right now, but has a lot to think about and parse through as well. From a very steep site, this is a precise expression with a lot to love. (90 points IJB)

2021 Domäne Wachau Riesling Smaragd Ried Achleiten - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
SRP: $51
Medium yellow color. A bright and inviting nose that shows a bouncy mix of yellow apples, kiwi, quince, along with fresh tennis balls, mountain stream down slate rocks, crushed schist, with these honey and almond skin tones (seriously, a lot of cool stuff happening here). Pure sums it up nicely on the palate, as this just has a vibrant, clean, focused appeal, with flavors of limes, papayas, crunchy green apples. Complex elements of honey, clover, stony minerals, and flint add complexity and they tingle the tongue on the finish. This has a long life ahead of it – what a beaut! (93 points IJB)

Sonoma Pinots and Chards

2020 Papapietro Perry Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $61
Light ruby color. Beautiful aromas of fresh strawberries, red cherries, crunchy red apple peel, along with fallen leaves, tobacco, autumnal vibes, dusty and peppery vibes – love it. The palate shows vibrancy with dusty tannins and a balanced feel, with strawberries, raspberries, juicy summer plums, with pepper and cranberry relish. An elegant feel with nuances of earth, spice, clove, fresh garden soil. I’d love to see what this does in a few years or with a roast duck dish. Aged 11 months in 1/3 new French oak. (92 points IJB)

2020 Papapietro Perry Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $61
Medium ruby color. Aromas of jammy raspberries and strawberries, with an inviting floral, earthy, herbal tones (dried roses, tilled soil, rosemary, fresh basil), a deep but bright aromatic display. The palate expresses such freshness and vibrancy, with dusty/moderate tannins and bright acidity, along with tart red and black cherries, with raspberries and pomegranate. Notes of floral perfume, clove, tobacco, rhubarb and white pepper add complexity, and I get these lovely earth and leather tones, too. Deep but focused and lively, expressive now but will show wonders in a few years. So much good RRV Pinot for the price. Aged 11 months in 1/3 new French oak. (92 points IJB)  

2021 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Russian River Selection - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Deep ruby color. Such a warm, enticing aromatic display of bright raspberries and deep, mulled black cherries, along with nuances of rhubarb and cola, hints of roses, violets, white pepper, warm clay. The palate has this crisp, crushable feel, but supple tannins and the deep fruit and complexity offer a lot to parse through and enjoy. Lively acidity plays off of nuances of earth, dried rose petals, paprika and pepper, warm clay. Classic Sonoma Pinot goodness, this is smooth and deep and hits the spot, per usual from Gary Farrell. Will age nicely and show a lot more in a few years. Aged 13 months in 40% new French oak. (92 points IJB)  

2021 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Russian River Selection - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $35
Bright but deep yellow color. The nose bursts with orange peel and fresh lemons, yellow pears, mixed with honeycomb, almond skin, and notes of talc and crushed shells. The palate sports a beautiful creaminess – contrast that with racy, chalky acidity and a salty, pure, focused appeal. The fruit is generous, with chunks of pineapple and yellow apples, but it stays lively and lip-smacking. Notes of sea spray, honey, chalk dust, almond, they play so well together. Gary Farrell really knows how to translate the richness and clarity of Russian River Chardonnay in a way that speaks memorably. Aged 10 months in 30% new French oak. (92 points IJB)

Grill-Friendly Reds

2020 Graffigna Malbec Glorious Selection - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco
SRP: $19
Vibrant purple color. The nose is plummy and saucy with a complex mix of dusty earth, smoky, eucalyptus tones, with nuanced toasted oak and vanilla. The palate shows smooth tannins, balanced by fresh acid, with flavors of tart black currant and juicy black cherries. Dark but lively with interwoven tones of graphite, cedar, gravelly loam, dried violets, black pepper. Smooth and well-balanced but complex and involved – this would be a great by-the-glass wine at a steakhouse, I’d sure order it. Excellent value to stock up as well. All Malbec aged in French oak, concrete, and steel. (90 points IJB)

2018 Bodegas Valdemar Rioja Conde de Valdemar Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
SRP: $20
Light purple color. The nose shows an earthy, savory, spicy mix of charcoal, paprika, tar, over top of plum sauce and black cherries, with notes of graphite and mocha. The palate shows refreshing acidity with smooth but structured tannins and flavors of roasted digs and ripe black cherries. Focused, smooth, but shows nice and nuance for the price, with elements of earth, tobacco, cedar, and spiced black tea. Super fun and nice value. Tempranillo, Mazuelo, and Graciano from vineyards in Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Alta. (88 points IJB)

2019 Viña San Pedro Carménère 1865 Selected Vineyards ­- Chile, Maule Valley
SRP: $18
Vibrant purple color. Classic aromas of black cherries and currant sauce, with violets and earth, savory tones of black pepper, roasted red pepper, pickling spices. The palate is balanced and sports smooth tannins and moderate acidity, with effusive black currant, blueberry, and black cherry fruit. The nuances of earth, charcoal, savory spice, anise, grilled steak and bell peppers, with nuances of vanilla and oak woven in well. All Carménère from the Maule Valley. Lots of personality and value packed into this wine! (90 points IJB)

2020 Vara Tinto Especial - Spain
SRP: $45
Deep ruby color. The nose shows a vibrant yet jammy mix of raspberries and deep black cherries, laced with a cool mix of graphite, campfire, dried rose petals, red licorice, anise, with black pepper tones. The palate is ripe and juicy with raspberries and black cherry fruit, smooth tannins, medium acidity, on a medium-bodied frame, and things are wrapped together nicely. Smoky, minty, tobacco-laden tones, blending well with savory broth and spicy floral potpourri tones. This is spicy and fun, grill-friendly goodness. An interesting blend of 29% Cariñena and 28% Mencia from Spain, with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Tempranillo from Central California, and 8% Garnacha, 5% Syrah, and 5% Merlot from Montsant. (90 points IJB)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Gods of the Wachau: Pichler and Hirtzberger

I have been obsessed with the Rieslings and Gruner Veltliners from F.X. Pichler and Franz Hirtzberger for a solid decade now. And with each tasting of their wines, I’m constantly impressed and refreshed. The quality, depth, and focus of the wines is consistent across vintages, and with such site-specific nuances, the wines offer a master class in Wachau terroir. These are the kinds of wines that translate their site with clarity.

And they’re just so damned delicious. Not to mention age-worthy. I have a bunch of Pichlers and Hirtzbergers buried that I’m pretending I don’t know exist, at least for another five or six years. The wines age beautifully, but they’re also ready to drink young, because they offer such freshness and fruit.

I recently tasted three wines apiece from Pichler and Hirtzberger at Weygandt Wines, which imports these wines. As always, their offerings are well-priced for the high quality, and the knowledge of the staff (should you have any Austria or other wine-related questions) is top notch.

Here are my notes on the wines I tasted…

2014 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Federspiel Steinterrassen - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
$34
Lots of lemon, grapefruit and minerals on the nose. Stony and dusty and mineral-driven on the palate, dry and brisk and doused in lemon and slate and sea salt. Delicious stuff that should evolve so nicely. (91 points)

2015 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Kirchweg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau 
$40
Loving the spicy complexity on the nose (white pepper, nettle, tobacco) with tropical juices mixed in. Peachy and rich on the palate, almost waxy, but also precise acidity and lots of zesty fruit. Tropical, too, and honeyed tea, but it stays elegant and spicy and complex. Wow this should age beautifully. (93 points)

2014 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Loibner Steinertal - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
$47
Gorgeous aromatics of spiced honeyed tea, peach nectar, mineral and limestone dust. Rich and waxy texture on the palate, with plump, tropical fruits. But the zesty acidity and complex floral, soap, incense sticks, nettle and perfume elements make for a seriously complex wine. As with all of these wines, I want to re-taste it in five years. (93 points)

2015 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Loibner Oberhauser - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

F.X. (left) and the next generation (Lucas) Pichler craft exquisite
wines, easily some of the best Rieslings and Gruners in Austria.

$37 
Love the aromas of apricot, key lime, honey and salty, mineral notes. So precise and crisp on the palate, lush texture combines with crusty minerals and sea salt. Apricot and lime glazed in honey and white tea. Complex, long, elegant, age-worthy. (93 points) 

2014 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Hochrain - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau 
$54
Aromas of green apples, peaches, ripe but fresh with floral perfume and chalk dust notes. Such precision on the palate, an elegant and stony wine, but plenty of texture. Lime and peach laced with seashells, mineral dust, saline, cut floral stems. Delicious, deep, deserves lots of time, but a total beauty. (94 points)

2013 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Dürnsteiner Liebenberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
$62
Aromas of rich apricot, lemon curd, with spicy tobacco and minerals. Waxy and plump but zesty acidity, I like the combo of honey, tropical fruit with spicy ginger, white pepper, spiced tea, mineral, dusty earth. A layered, fascinating, delicious wine. (93 points)

Exploring Austrian Grüner Veltliner

Accessible, popular, flies off the shelves. These are not words I’d use to describe Grüner Veltliner, that wonderfully spicy, challenging, hard-to-pronounce Austrian white grape. 

But GrüV wines can be really exciting, and they’re definitely worth checking out. Spicy and herbal yet rich and tropical, the wines are a classic pairing with all sorts of Indian and Asian foods. 

I recently tasted through a few Grüners at Weygandt Wines in DC, which imports a slew of really good Austrian wines. From entry-level to high-end F.X. Pichler juice, the tasting represented a good cross-section of what you can expect from Austrian Grüner.

2014 Soellner Grüner Veltliner Wogenrain - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wagram
$18
Lovely spice, herbs and bright green fruit on the nose. Tart and brisk, with minerals, spice and pepper to accent the crunchy green apples. Great way to introduce people to Grüner. (87 points)

2013 Soellner Grüner Veltliner Hengstberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wagram 
$20
Spicy aromatics, some richer, more honeyed notes than the Wogenrain. Lush, rich palate but still plenty clean and brisk. Apricots and pears dashed with white pepper, herbs and honey. Love the creaminess and depth to this wine, but lots of spice and herbal complexities. (90 points)

2014 Weinkeller Aigner Grüner Veltliner Sandgrube - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal
$17
Bright and intense aromatics of crushed chalk, rocks, shells and green herbs. Crisp, intense grip and acid, some richer elements. A racy wine yet shows some fullness and structure. Long, spicy finish. (88 points)

2014 Weinkeller Aigner Grüner Veltliner Reserve Privat - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal
$25
Rich and bold aromatics, much more forward than the 2014 Sandgrube, I get lots of slate and minerals along with the tropical fruit. Rich, exotic, plush, lots of tropical fruit but plenty of acid, minerals and smoky elements. (90 points)

 2012 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Rotes Tor - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
$35
Smells of lemons, limes, white pepper and pickling spices to me. Rich presence yet clean and clear, juicy white peach plays off a deep saline and slate aesthetic. White pepper, clover and a hint of hops, this is a complex and layered wine with a lot of time ahead. (91 points)

2011 Pichler-Krutzler Grüner Veltliner Wunderburg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
$33
Oily aromatics, with slate, spice, honeycomb and yellow apples. Clean, crisp, live-wire acidity but some bold structure. White peach and lime blend with chalk, shells, seaweed and green beans. Long, mineral-driven and spicy. Holding up wonderfully, with plenty of time. (90 points)

2013 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Urgestein Terrassen - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
$50
So bright and vibrant on the nose: green apples, kiwi, honey, laundry, minerals, chalk. Crisp, intense, zippy yet powerful. Needs time, but I’m loving these smashed rocks, strong herbs, spices and minerals. Rich, intense, but showing so much elegance and stuffing for the cellar. (92 points)

Newly-Released Wines

I stopped by my favorite wine shop, Weygandt Wines, on a Thursday night to taste some of their new releases. Most of the wines were from the 2010 vintage, which is apparently spectacular all over Europe. I brought a 2010 riesling from my recent trip to the Mosel Valley, and it showed very well. It was a great time, with great people and discussion. This tasting was another example of why I'm going to be buying lots of French wines from the 2010 vintage. In Austria and Germany as well, 2010 is just a great vintage, and I can't wait to stock up on them.

2010 Kurt Angerer Grüner Veltliner "Kies" - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
I love how kurt angerer can put out a $20 gruner veltliner of this quality. The nose shows lime, grapefruit and slate. The palate is really spicy and full of acid. Flavors of grapefruit rind and slate. This is a really compact wine that will probably show better with a littler air or time in the bottle. Great stuff. (90 pts.)

2010 Weingut Jacob Steffen Erben Kestener Paulinshofberg Riesling Kabinett trocken - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
I bought this wine back from my trip to the Mosel Valley and popped it for some friends. I liked this wine a lot, and it seemed to be quite a crowd-pleaser. Perfumed nose with white flowers, lychee and white peach. the palate has great acid, chalk and minerals. On the midpalate, I get a flavor that reminds me of almond or chestnuts. Slate and lime linger on the finish. (90 pts.)

2010 Catherine et Pascal Rollet Mâcon Solutré-Pouilly Domaine de la Chapelle - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon Solutré-Pouilly
I've enjoyed this wine in the past, and am excited to report that the 2010 is quite a steal. The nose shows lemons, salt and nuts. It's plump on the palate, and really zesty, but it's backed up by green apple fruit and hazelnuts. A very balanced chardonnay from a great viontage at bargain price. (89 pts.)

2010 Château de La Greffiere St. Véran - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, St. Véran
pear and green apple on the nose. the palate is really creamy with buttescotch and hazelnut. lots of pulpy fruit. not as balanced as i'd like. (86 pts.)

2010 Domaine Auchère Sancerre - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
This was my first Sancerre from 2010, and what a good one. Aromas of lemons, slate and seashells. The palate is fresh and the acid is kicking. I love the key lime, orange rind and slate. This is a powerful, intense Sancerre that is really enjoyable. (90 pts.)

2009 Yannick Amirault Bourgueil La Coudraye - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil
Dark purple color in the glass. The nose is a wonderful medley of black olive and black cherries, and I also get a distinct paprika and even a curry aroma. I love the nose. The palate is a pure burst of fresh cherry fruit. The tannins are chewy and it's all wrapped up with flavors of meat, olive and iron. This is a more bombastic style of cabernet franc, but I really enjoyed it. (90 pts.)

2010 Daniel Bouland Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Mélanie - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly
The 2010 beaujolais wines are very impressive. This is no exception. It's very aromatic, showing fresh strawberries, cherries and some soil. The palate is plump and fresh with solid tannic structure. I like the plum and jolly rancher flavors, and also the iron flavor on the finish. This is tightly-wound now, and I think it'll get better with years in the bottle. (89 pts.)

2007 Mas Martinet Priorat Menut - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat
Each time I taste this wine I'm impressed by the power, elegance, balance and price. For $20, it doesn't get much better than this. Fresh raspberry and smoke on the nose. The palate is full of fruit, highlighted by just the right amount of vanilla and oak. Delicious wine. (90 pts.)

2009 Château La Fleur Morange Mathilde - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion
This is my first 2009 Bordeaux, and I enjoyed it a lot. 100% old vine Merlot. The color is dark purple. The aromas show plums, tobacco and fresh tilled soil. The aromas point to Bordeaux, but the palate is full of California sunshine. Dark plums, vanilla coke and black cherries lead the way. The oak and smooth tannins add a creamy mouthfeel to this wine that I just find irresistable. It's drinking well now, but could use some time to mellow out a bit. (92 pts.)

2010 Domaine des Soulanes (Cathy et Daniel Laffite) Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes Kaya - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes
Lots of paint and spices on the nose. This is a really big wine that could use some time or a decant. There's an explosion of blueberry and blackberry fruit, along with some dusty tannins. (88 pts.)

Top Five Wines of First Half of 2011

I can't believe it, but 2011 is halfway over. Time goes so fast it's ridiculous. What's also ridiculous is the incredible amount of top-notch wines I've been able to taste so far this year. At halfway through 2011, I looked back at my tasting notes and found my top five wines of the first half of 2011. Interesting thing is: They're all white wines. I've always loved whites, but so far this year I've found myself seeking out some great white wines. Maybe it's just my palate shifting over time, but I can't seem to get myself away from riesling, gruner veltliner and chardonnay. Here are my favorites so far this year:

2009 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Loibner Steinertal (Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau) 4/3/2011, rated 96 points
i don't throw around 96 points very often. but this wine is just immaculate. it has the sexiest nose: flowers, lemons, white peaches, fresh laundry. i feel like i'm running through a field of blossoms and hanging sheets in one of those downy commercials. the palate is fresh, but really dense and complex. right off, i could tell this wine needs years to show its true potential. right now the flavors are so compacted that it needs time to develop. but there is no denying the complexity and mouthfeel of this wine. apricots and honey flavors stay from the attack to the finish, but they're mixed with granola, peanut brittle, golden apples and a hint of cinnamon. the acid is intense throughout, making this a massive but balanced wine. the finish is seamless and incredibly long. i've now had the 92, 07, 08 on several occassions, and this was my favorite FX riesling stienertal experience.

2008 Cameron Chardonnay Blanc Clos Electrique (USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills) 6/3/2011, rated 96 points
this is truly an amazing chardonnay. it is complex, bold, sexy but also balanced. the nose is a massive burst of pineapple and lime juice. it kind of smells like someone poured a salty margarita on top of cotton candy. the sweet fruit is by no means overwhelming, indeed everyone at the table loved this wine, even those who are not fans of riper chardonnays. the palate is silky, creamy and alive. lime and honeydew flavors glide across the palate, highlighted by vanilla extract, pear butter and lemon drops. the focus and intensity of this wine is astounding. great acid lingers on the long finish. no oak here, but a richness that almost reminds me of a kind of neutral oak aging, although i'm not sure. this is the best chardonnay from oregon i've ever had, and it's way up there on the list of best chardonnays i've ever had.

2006 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel (Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer) 4/3/2011, rated 95 points
the color is an intense honeyed orange. the fruit is pure and powerful on the nose. i get canided pears, golden apples and apricto, all highlighted with a stony minerality. the palate is viscous, rich and exciting. massive creaminess, golden grahams cereal, apricot puree, honeyed apples, hints of spice. its not at all cloying, which is why i loved this so much. it goes down easily with the acid, and the acid and sweetness linger in perfect balance on an incredibly long finish. that has an incredible 25+ years of development ahead of it.

2007 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 'M' (Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau) 4/3/2011, rated 95
the nose is intense and lovely. lemons, yellow apple, tobacco, lemon zest and heating oil. apricots, honey, oil, creamy, tobacco... the flavors are unbelievable. gorgeous wine.

2007 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Dürnsteiner Kellerberg (Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau) 4/3/2011, rated 95
rich, honey, peaches and cream on the nose. the palate is rich and creamy, white grapes, green pepper, honey, rosemary. while i'm sipping this wine, i really wonder, does gruner get better than this? i don't know.

Gruner Veltliner + Riesling + Korean Food = Bliss

Gruner Veltliner and Riesling at Mandu
4/3/2011 (Mandu - Washington, DC)

The theme: gruner veltliners, rieslings and a melange of Korean food at Mandu in Washington, DC. Sounded like a fun, simple night. But it turned into one of the best wine tastings I've been to in recent years. The range of aromas, flavors and textures in these wines was incredible. About 11 of us got together for mounds of great Korean food, served family style by a respectful and generous staff. While the food was phenomenal, these wines were just flat out incredible. The first riesling dinner I arranged at Mandu in March was a phenomenal success and this take #2 was even better. I tasted each wine in each flight individualy, then went back over them again, then with food. While the food aromas and flavors were intense, I still feel like I was able to taste each wine for what it was. That said, the interplay between the food and the wine was tremendous. Also, I would've been happy with any one of these wines over the course of an evening. Each one was so distinct, that it was almost a crime to taste so many great wines together. But it was a crime I had a lot of fun committing. This tasting further solidified my opinion that F.X. Pichler is one of the greatest wine producers in the world, period. And, if I needed further basis for my opinion that riesling is the greatest white grape in the world, this sure helped.

Below are my tasting notes and scores.

Opening Wines

N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne Cuvée Rosé Brut - France, Champagne
nose shows lemons, strawberries. the palate is very acidic, with not enough weight for me. still a good finish. (85 pts.)

2007 Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Der Ott - Austria, Niederösterreich, Donauland, Wagram
this is a gruner? really? its filled with mango, apricot and honeydew on the nose. the palate is thick with honey and really viscous. not very gruner-esque, but still a great wine. more like a riesling, in my opinion. (89 pts.)

2007 Weingut Meinhard Forstreiter Grüner Veltliner Tabor - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal
the nose is so oily! gops of oil, spicy herbs, lemon oil, melons with spice. gorgeous thickness on the palate, matched with spiced lemons, almond paste and white pepper. gorgeous wine. really mindboggling in its depth and complexity. (93 pts.)

Pichler Gruners

2008 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Dürnsteiner Kellerberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
the nose of this wine is gorgeous. lots of rosemary, nervy lemons, dill, white pepper. the palate is filled with apples, white pepper, rich tobacco and dandelion stems. the complexity is astounding. (94 pts.)

2008 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 'M' - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
peaches, white lillies on the nose with some white pepper. the palate is filled with green apples, golden pears, and a hint of cinnamon. there's a great onion, dill and white pepper flavor, like a ukrainian green borscht. great balance. what a gorgeous wine. (93 pts.)

2007 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Dürnsteiner Kellerberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
rich, honey, peaches and cream on the nose. the palate is rich and creamy, white grapes, green pepper, honey, rosemary. while i'm sipping this wine, i really wonder, does gruner get better than this? i don't think so. (95 pts.)

2007 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 'M' - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
the nose is intense and lovely. lemons, yellow apple, tobacco, lemon zest and heating oil. apricots, honey, oil, creamy, tobacco... the flavors are unbelievable. gorgeous wine. (95 pts.)

Riesling Kabinetts

2002 Dr. Fischer Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
the nose shows apples, pineapples and apricot. the palate shows apple juice, pineapples and minerals. nice wine. the lack of acid keeps it from being better than it is, but it was nice to get a riesling with a bit of age on it into the tasting. (87 pts.)

2007 A.J. Adam Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
the nose on this riesling is intense. sugar cane, white peach. the palate shows green apple, golden honey and gorgoues peaches. wonderful. (90 pts.)

2007 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
dense petrol on the nose. almost like a bit of new leather. also some gorgeous apples on the nose. the palate is rich and oily. i get a lot of golden apples and layers of honeyed graham crackers. gorgeous length. drinks like a spatlese, but i can't help but love the richness of this wine. (91 pts.)

2008 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
gorgeous nose of ginger, lemons and oil. pineapple, golden apple and lime zest on the palate. a bit more zip to it than the 07, but this is still quite rich for a kabinett. (90 pts.)

Two more rieslings

2009 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Loibner Steinertal - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
i don't throw around 96 points very often. but this wine is just immaculate. it has the sexiest nose: flowers, lemons, white peaches, fresh laundry. i feel like i'm running through a field of blossoms and hanging sheets in one of those downy commercials. the palate is fresh, but really dense and complex. right off, i could tell this wine needs years to show its true potential. right now the flavors are so compacted that it needs time to develop. but there is no denying the complexity and mouthfeel of this wine. apricots and honey flavors stay from the attack to the finish, but they're mixed with granola, peanut brittle, golden apples and a hint of cinnamon. the acid is intense throughout, making this a massive but balanced wine. the finish is seamless and incredibly long. i've now had the 92, 07, 08 on several occassions, and this was my favorite FX riesling stienertal experience. (96 pts.)

2009 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Nahe
what a beautiful nose of golden apples, white peaches and slate. searing acid on the palate is balanced by a thick, oily mouthfeel. rich white peaches glide across the palate, followed by honeycomb, golden apples, and a rush of minerals. at this point in the tasting, i felt like my palate had been on such a high, that this might even be better if just tasted alone. also, incredibly young. still, this wine wowed me. (92 pts.)

Ausleses to end the evening

2001 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Auslese - Germany, Nahe
what a beautiful golden color. an impressive, powerful nose of apricots and honey, like those honeys with spices in them you can get at farmer's markets. the richness of the orange marmalade, sugar cane, honey and lemon oil is astounding. gorgeous finish. (93 pts.)

2006 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
the color is an intense honeyed orange. the fruit is pure and powerful on the nose. i get canided pears, golden apples and apricto, all highlighted with a stony minerality. the palate is viscous, rich and exciting. massive creaminess, golden grahams cereal, apricot puree, honeyed apples, hints of spice. its not at all cloying, which is why i loved this so much. it goes down easily with the acid, and the acid and sweetness linger in perfect balance on an incredibly long finish. that has an incredible 25+ years of development ahead of it. (95 pts.)