Wine Selections for the Holidays

 It’s been a long year. Whatever holidays you may be celebrating, I wish you and yours safety, joy, and good food and wine.

So, this week I have some selections that are all over the map. I tried to curate some samples that would please crowds, provide joy and pair well with celebrations and wintry foods.

Like many of you, I’m sure, I love bubbles year-round. But, of course, from Thanksgiving through New Year’s, bubbles are huge, and I have a nice mix in here. From inexpensive tank method bubbles through some delightful Champagnes.

Domaine Bousquet brings its Charmat method bubbles, which are the best-selling bubbles from Argentina and are inexpensive, accessible and fun. Lanson delivers three different Champagne options that offer a nice view of their approach, while Bruno Paillard delivers, as always. And California's Frank Family brings two different Champagne method sparklers to the table.

There are some also deep, juicy, warm reds, too, from California’s Smith Madrone, Sullivan and Tooth & Nail.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Sparkling wines

N.V. Domaine Bousquet Brut - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $13
Light yellow color. The nose shows a bright mix of lemon and kiwi with sugarcane, white flowers, and some crushed chalk and sweet tarts. The palate is bright and light with zippy acidity and integrated sugar, light bubbles, and flavors of lemons, green apple, kiwi, floral perfume, talc. Fresh, fun, light and steely, crowd-pleasing bubbles. 75/25 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, 11 g/l residual sugar. (86 points)

N.V. Domaine Bousquet Brut Rosé - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $13
Pale salmon color. This has a crunchy and lively aromatic appeal with raspberry, tart strawberry and notes of rose petals and talc. Has a fresh and vibrant feel on the palate, with soft bubbles and a crisp, steely vibe. Strawberry and white cherry fruit mix with notes of honeysuckle, rose petals, and some crushed sweet tarts and chalk tones. Fresh, fun and zippy. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, 12 g/l residual sugar. (87 points)

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $23
Light gold color. Beautiful nose of lemons and pears, topped with honey, sea salt, bread dough and white flowers – a whole lot going on for a wine at this price point. Zesty and chalky on the palate with yellow apples and lemon fruit, mixed with some nuanced biscuit and dough notes. Nice verve and floral/salty kick. A classic value Cremant that would please a wide spectrum of palates. Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois with a 10 g/l dosage. (89 points)

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $23
Pale salmon color. The nose is crisp and floral with raspberry and red apples peel, along with chalk dust, wildflowers and perfume. Crisp and zesty on the palate with tight bubbles and flavors of raspberry, red apple peel and orange zest. Nervy and fresh, a light feel but not shy, and has some complex floral perfume, chalk and talc notes. This is reliable and delicious stuff and so reasonably priced. All Pinot Noir aged 12-18 months on the lees, 12 g/l dosage. (89 points)

N.V. Lanson Champagne Le Black Réserve Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Light gold color. Smells of lemons, kiwi and quince, along with lovely floral and mountain stream elements. The palate is crisp and light with lemons, green apples and limes, along with flinty, limestone and mineral elements. Zippy but nice fresh, crunchy bread elements. Light but fun. 50% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier, aged four years on the lees, 8 g/l dosage. (88 points)

N.V. Lanson Champagne 1760 Le Rosé - France, Champagne
SRP: $70
Gorgeous salmon color with a nose of red apples and wild raspberry mixed with dried rose petals, tomato leaf, white pepper, talc and honey. The palate is tart and tart with dusty, salty, brightness and tones of raspberries white cherry and McIntosh apple. Salty, floral, honeyed and mint elements add complexity. Fresh and floral but shows a lot of depth as well. 53% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier. (90 points)

N.V. Lanson Champagne Green Label - France, Champagne
SRP: $75
Rich yellow color. The nose pops with green apples and lemons, chalk dust, honeysuckle along with limestone and sea salt. Crisp and fresh with green apples, lemons, along with graham cracker, honey and some chalky, flinty elements. Delightful, accessible, a fun, fresh, quite complex mix of  Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. (90 points)

N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $80
Light yellow color. An invigorating nose of saline, limestone and chalk mixed with yellow apples, lemons, biscuits and croissants. The palate is racy and crisp but shows a lovely depth of texture as well. Lemons, yellow apples and orange peel mix so well with chalky, salty, briny tones, and these deeper tones of bread dough and shaved ginger. Precise, beautiful stuff – there’s a lot of clarity and depth here. Aged four years sur lie, 5 g/l dosage. (92 points)

2015 Frank Family Vineyards Blanc de Blancs - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Medium yellow color. Lovely nose of lemon curd and yellow apples with chalk dust, nougat, bread dough, some flinty tones. Creamy yet zesty on the palate with a chalky, flinty vibe that supports lemons, yellow apple and kiwi fruit. Pure, focused, dry and bright with a lot of complexity. An impressive iteration of Chardonnay sparkling wine from Frank Family. (91 points)

2016 Frank Family Vineyards Brut Rosé - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Medium copper color. The nose shows a crunchy, focused appeal with lemons, red apple and white cherry, along with notes of fresh baguette, honeysuckle and white flowers. On the palate this is zesty and bright with lemons, raspberry and white cherries, along with a host of doughy, white flowers, chalk dust. So good, focused, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, a delight of a sparkler. (90 points)

Red Wines

2020 Tooth & Nail “Stasis” Carbonic Zinfandel - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Willow Creek District
SRP: $46
Vibrant ruby color. So fresh and fun on the nose with cherries and plums, mixed with sweet violets, rose petals, pepper and cocoa. Zesty acid, dusty tannins and a juicy core of cherries and raspberries. I love the farmer’s market mix of herbs and flowers, along with notes of clay, tobacco, pepper. It’s lively as heck but has solid textural depth as well. Fun and crushable but memorable and complex, too – loving this style. From Tooth and Nail’s estate vineyard in Paso’s Willow Creek AVA. (90 points)

2020 Tooth & Nail Wines Syrah “Destinata” - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $29
Pretty violet color. The nose is airy and open with wild raspberries and juicy blueberries along with roses, violets and cola. The palate has this plush feel with smooth tannins and zesty acidity. Gorgeous blueberry, raspberry and cherry, crunchy yet deep fruit. Notes of violet petals, warm black tea, pepper and leather add complexity. That carbonic goodness is so fun but the fruit and complexity underneath are legit. A crushable, Beaujolais-inspired Syrah that just rocks. (91 points)

2018 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $62
Deep purple color. A warm, inviting mix of currants and black cherries with dusty earth, clay tobacco, leather, graphite, just a ton going on as it opens up. Full but suave with such vibrant acidity and structured tannins. The fruit is a deep but crunchy mix of tart currants and juicy cherries, and the fruit is mixed with delightful mix of earth and graphite, leather and charcoal, roasted red pepper and nuanced cedar. Complex, fresh, beautiful stuff, this will age wonderfully for who-knows-how-long. Includes some Merlot and Cabernet Franc, aged 21 months in 50% new French oak. (94 points)

2018 Sullivan Vineyards Coeur de Vigne - USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford
SRP: $110
Bright purple color. Exciting yet classic nose of black cherries and currants, laced with savory and spicy tones of leather, black tea, smoked meat, tilled soil – a lot to unpack here. Crisp acidity frames the wine well against solid, grippy tannins and a core of deep currants, plums and blackberries. The complexities are really impressive: black tea, light roast coffee, tar, violets, tobacco and roasted bell pepper. There’s also this flinty, graphite and iron mystique that underlines the whole thing. Deep yet vibrant, this deserves age, time and your attention. Includes 20% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, aged 21 months in 65% new French oak. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

International Wines for Pandemic Times

The coronavirus pandemic is causing havoc the world over. While tasting wines from Italy, Spain, the United States, I can’t help think of how all these places are being upended by this pandemic. I hope you all are staying safe, taking care of yourselves and each other, and also enjoying some good wine and food at home. 

I’ve been trying to cook as much vegetables as I can during these past two weeks of lockdown, and I’ve found myself playing around with lots of Indian and Moroccan spices. Luckily, I had two Pinot Blancs from Alsace to sample that also work really well with the dishes I’ve been slinging. Alsace is where I first fell in love with wine, and it is vibrant, exciting, inexpensive wines like the two in this report that keep me coming back.

This report also includes two wines from Fournier, in Ribera del Duero, which was purchased by Gonzalez Byass in 2019.

And from the U.S. come several Oregon and Washington wines. I’ve been hurling praise at Applegate Valley’s Troon wines for years now. And while I tend to personally enjoy their whites more, these Tannat-based reds are crisp, crunchy and juicy in a way that’s more accessible than most Tannats that I’ve tasted.

Tamarack Cellars offers a whole lot of Washington red goodness for less than $30, and Owen Roe’s wines also make an appearance.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Meyer-Fonné Pinot Blanc Vieilles Vignes - France, Alsace
SRP: $22 

Medium yellow color. The nose has this waxy, honeyed aspect, contrasted with this airy, field of wildflower and clover element, on top of white peach and nectarine. Deep texture, lovely honeyed feel, but lively acidity keeps it moving forward. Apricot, nectarine and papaya fruit blend well with honeysuckle, verbena, and these underlying slate and mineral tones. Round but fresh, this should show some interesting characteristics with age. From granite soils in Katzenthal. (90 points)

2017 Emile Beyer Pinot Blanc Tradition - France, Alsace
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. The nose bursts with peaches, green melon, but also spicy, floral notes of honeysuckle, mint and baby’s breath. Dry and fresh on the palate, this has a waxy, rich texture, but the acidity moderates it well. Kiwi, peach and mango fruit, whipped with honey, white tea, seashells and minerals. There’s a lot on offer here, and a lot of balance between depth and freshness. From clay and limestone soils in Eguisheim. (90 points)

2017 Marchesi de' Frescobaldi Pomino Bianco Riserva Benefizio - Italy, Tuscany, Pomino
SRP: $21
Medium yellow color. Nose of green apples, kiwi, a pleasant mash-up of tennis ball, perfume, flowers, honey and chalk dust. Deep texture on the palate, full-bodied (14.5%) but bright acidity keeps it fresh. Yellow plums, cantaloupe and lemon crème fruit mixes well with whipped butter, toasted nuts, a creamy but balanced wine with underlying flinty mineral tones. Fermented in 50% new French oak with lees aging for 10 months. For fans of richer, creamier style, this Chardonnay also sports freshness and liveliness, though. (89 points)

2016 Fournier Ribera del Duero Crianza - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
SRP: $30
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of juicy raspberries, sweet red cherries and crunchy red plums, with roses, some anise. Suave and velvety on the palate with vibrant acidity and a balanced, fresh appeal, with juicy raspberries and strawberries. Notes of cocoa, rose petals, mint, espresso, there’s a lot going on here, but it’s accessible and lively, too. (88 points)

2014 Fournier Ribera del Duero Reserva - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. Nose shows dark, deep blackberry, along with smoky charcoal, coffee, dark chocolate and anise. Full-bodied, solid grip on the tannins, medium acidity, it is concentrated but not too dense. Deep blueberry and cassis fruit mixes with graphite, mineral and charcoal, with accents of campfire, espresso, dark chocolate. Deep and worthy of cellar time, but it’s has some fun, fresh appeal, too. (90 points)

2017 Troon Vineyard Cuvée Pyrénées - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $65 

Bright violet color. Such vibrant aromas, like chilled plums and black currants, laced with violets, clove, mesquite, leather, warm clay. Medium-bodied on the palate (13.7% alcohol), with bright, tangy acidity and velvety tannins. Juicy plums, raspberries and black cherries, tangy, concentrated fruit, mixed with complex mesquite, graphite, cocoa, violet petals, earth. Lovely, fresh, accessible, but this could improve significantly over the next few years. Gorgeous stuff. 53% Tannat, 47% Malbec, co-fermented. (92 points)

2017 Troon Vineyard Tannat Estate - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Vibrant purple color. Delightfully spicy on the nose, with paprika, pepper, clove, on top of some blackberry and tangy cassis fruit, with dried rose petals and earthy, tar notes. Medium/full-bodied, solid grip but no harsh edges on the tannins – and the acid sings. Dark cherries, blackberries, juicy, crunchy fruit, mixed with potting soil, paved road, graphite, anise and light roast coffee notes. Deep and dark but crunchy and alive as well, this should do well with four or five years of cellaring. (91 points)

2016 Tamarack Cellars Firehouse Red - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $20
Medium purple color. Smells like black cherries, sweet blueberries, saucy plums, with smoky earth, barbecue sauce, clove, dark chocolate. Medium-bodied with velvety tannins, moderate acidity, a pleasantly chewy texture. Plummy, saucy cherry fruit, mixed with barbecue sauce, black pepper glaze, some coffee, cedar and clove. Fun and fresh but this shows a lot of complexity for the price. A kitchen sink blend of Merlot, Syrah, Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Mourvedre, Grenache, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot and Counoise, aged in a mix of 40% new French, American and Hungarian oak. (88 points)

2017 Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Franc - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $30
Vibrant purple color. Deep, dark aromas that take some time to get going, but then it’s all about currants, plums, earth, clay, soy, clove – intriguing stuff. Full, plush, smooth tannins and fresh acidity meet for a well-balanced wine. Fresh currants and black cherries, laced with earth, pepper, violets, clove, soy and tobacco. Nuanced cocoa and cedar woven in well. Delicious now, but this could really use three or four years to show its best. Serious value here. All Cabernet Franc sourced from Weinbau, Ciel du Cheval and Tapteil Vineyards, aged in 30% new French oak. (90 points)

2017 Owen Roe Red Wine Yakima Valley - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley
SRP: $28
Light purple color. Smells like sweet red currants, black cherries, spiced cranberry relish, with violets, black tea, sweet cocoa. Full but suave on the palate, this is smooth but mouth-filling, deep but has a fresh appeal, too. Currants and plums, topped in violets, tobacco, eucalyptus, graphite. Chewy, deep feel, luscious but shows vibrancy and freshness. 59% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 8% Malbec, sourced from Red Willow, Union Gap and DuBrul Vineyards. (90 points)

2018 Owen Roe Sinister Hand - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley
SRP: $27
Light purple color. Nose of candied cherries, candied red apples, juicy, fruity, purple, with sweet tea, cola, some grilled herbs. Full but not heavy, soft/medium tannins, moderate acidity, this shows plenty of juicy red and purple fruits. I get notes of smoky cedar, cola, roses, cranberry relish. Notes of spiced tea, rose petals, barbecue sauce. Fun, early-drinking stuff that should go quickly at cookout parties. 55% Grenache, 19% Syrah, 17% Mourvedre, 9% Cinsault. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: Sparkling Wines for the Holidays

So, the holiday season is in full swing, and, like every year, the bubbles abound. 

I drink Champagne (and, to a lesser extent, Champagne-method bubbles from other regions) year-round, but the average occurrence of bubbly-popping definitely spikes between Thanksgiving and New Year’s. 

In this report, Champagne gets its due, with some wines from the houses of Bruno Paillard and Laurent Perrier. Gloria Ferrer, the Sonoma bubbly powerhouse, offers up three budget-friendly offerings, and a Santa Barbara sparkler from Lucas & Lewellen impresses. Lastly, a few sparklers from Alsace deliver — Crémant d’Alsace being one of my favorite sources of inexpensive but delicious sparkling wines. 

All of the wines in this report were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. Happy holidays, and I hope the last few days of your 2018 include some lovely Champagne-method wines. 

N.V. Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $22
Light copper color. Nose shows lemons, grapefruit, sea salt, white flowers, some musk notes. Crisp and bright on the palate with fresh acidity, fine bubbles, and very light biscuit notes. Green apples, apricots, wild strawberries, backed up with chalk dust and floral perfume notes. Fresh, bright, these are fun, accessible bubbles for the price. Mostly Pinot Noir with about 14% Chardonnay. (87 points) 

N.V. Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs - California, Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $22
Pale copper color. Smells fresh and bright with red apples, raspberries, rose hips and some salted biscuits. Fresh and crisp with a salty, zippy, light appeal. Raspberries, red apple and lemon mix with white flowers, white pepper and sea salt notes. Some sugar adds to the texture and flavor, but it stays fresh and fun for the price. Includes a bit of Chardonnay, this spends 18 months on the lees. (87 points) 

N.V. Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs - California, Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $22
Light yellow color. Aromas are tart and tangy with limes and green apples, light biscuits, sea salt, with some nettle and honeysuckle. Light and zesty on the palate with fine bubbles, this is fun and fresh with lines and green apples. Saline, chalk, lots of white flowers. Fresh and fun but significant complexity, this is a solid bubbly for holiday parties for sure. Aged two years on the lees, 100% Chardonnay. (88 points) 

2016 Lucas & Lewellen Brut - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $36
Deep yellow color. Nose shows a bunch of honey and graham cracker on top of yellow apples, apricots, and floral perfume. Ooh, this is nice on the palate, some rich texture with honeyed, baked apple elements nice hint of sweetness to the fruit but a brisk appeal. Flowers, graham crackers, honey, chalk, sea salt and toasted bread. A lot of flavor, depth and appeal here. 55% Pinot Noir, 45% Chardonnay. (90 points) 

N.V. Pierre Sparr Crémant d’Alsace Brut Réserve - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $19
Deep yellow color. On the nose, lots of chalk, sea salt, crushed shells, with lemons, green apples, ginger and baguette notes. Super bright and zesty but some plumpness as well. Crunchy green apples, lemons, limes, doused in chalk, limestone and mountain stream. Ginger, musk, mineral, toasted baguette notes, all of this combines in a bracing but richly textured Crémant that is surprisingly good for the money. 80% Pinot Blanc and 20% Pinot Auxerrois. (89 points) 

N.V. Keuntz-Bas Crémant d'Alsace Brut Tradition - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $18
Deep yellow color. The aromas show lots of honey, salted almond, biscuits, spiced white tea, with apricot and yellow apples. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely but there’s a nice honeyed, biscuity richness as well. Bruised apple and apricot topped in honeyed tea, ginger, sea salt, minerals. Rich but zesty, lovely balance and complexity here, especially when you consider the price point. A blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc aged 18 months on the lees. (89 points) 

N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne Brut Nature “Ultra Brut” - France, Champagne
SRP: $80
Medium yellow color. Lots of yellow apples, apricots, lemon curd, with rich honey, toasted biscuits and salted butter, but also bright chalk and sea salt notes. Precise and brisk on the palate with focused acidity but plenty of texture and depth. Apricots, yellow apples, lemons, laced with sea salt, crushed shells, with rich, deep notes of honey, ginger snap, toasted biscuits. The focus, precision and minerality is really impressive, this wine is lip-smackingly tasty with significant complexity. 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir, no dosage, aged six years on the lees. (91 points) 

N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne Harmony Demi-Sec - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Medium yellow color. Nose shows rich honey, apricot marmalade, candied ginger and apple peel, some sea salt biscuit notes. Plump and sweet on the palate but shows vibrancy throughout, sugar cane and candied apple notes mix with chalk, dried flowers and limestone. This is rich and sweet but shows liveliness as well, and would pair nicely with pastries or after-dinner cheeses. 45% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Meunier, 45 g/l dosage. (89 points) 

N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Brut Premiere Cuvée - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Rich yellow color. Nice mix of chalk, limestone, flowers, with lemons, apricots, and notes of biscuits and toasted almond. Brisk and vibrant on the palate with clean, crisp acidity and lots of minerals and chalk and crushed shells. Flavors of lemons, orange, apricot mix with biscuits, flowers, ginger, and minerals. Lovely, as usual, from Bruno Paillard. From 32 different villages, vinified separately, this wine consists of 45% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay, 22% Pinot Meunier, with at least 25% reserve wine. Disgorged Sept. 2017. (90 points) 

N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $70
Deep yellow color. Brisk nose of sea salt, crushed chalk, white flowers and fresh biscuits on top of lemon curd, green apple, apricot. Pretty, clean and crisp on the palate with salty minerals and high acidity, but some nice depth and texture throughout. Lemon, crunchy apricot and green apples mixed with honey, chalk, mountain streams and minerals. Dry, crunchy, vibrant. Aged four years on the lees, with a 5 g/l dosage. Disgorged October 2016. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Try Some Tasty, Tropical Gewürztraminers from Alsace

If you’re a frequent reader of these wine reviews, you may have seen me sing praises of Alsace. I love this region, which I first began exploring in high school, and its wines. But while Riesling and grapes from the extended Pinot family tend to be my favorite options, I have a lot of love for Gewürztraminer as well.

I love the intensity of floral and spice aromas, the rich, tropical, lychee-infused flavors. But as a huge fan of acidity in wine, Gewürz can present some problems. High sugar and low acidity can be an issue in some of the wines. But when sourced from the right spots (especially from Alsace’s calcareous soils) the wines are like nothing else. And the food pairing options (from autumnal soups to spicy pad Thai) can be uniquely satisfying.

Considering there’s only about 20,000 acres of Gewürz planted on the planet, and Alsace is home to some 7,000 of those acres, there’s no better place to go if you’re looking to explore this aromatic white grape variety.

I recently received a few sample bottles of Gewürztraminers from Alsace, and tasted them single-blind. My reviews are below.

2016 Meyer-Fonné Gewurztraminer Reserve - France, Alsace
SRP: $24
Medium yellow color. Ripe aromatics of guava, quince, lychee and passion fruit, along with honeysuckle, clover patch and white pepper. Plump and boisterous texture on the palate, waxy and honeyed, but some moderate acidity tries to balance the sweetness. Plush tropical melee of pineapple, guava, lychee and papaya, along with honey, herbal tea, spicy clove and white pepper. Full, rich, yummy. 12% alcohol. (87 points)

2016 Beck-Hartweg Gewurztraminer Cuvée Prestige - France, Alsace
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Such spicy aromatics, as cut flower stems, tobacco, magnolia petals, nettle and clove mix with lychee and guava fruit. Waxy texture with noticeable sugar, but medium acidity that keeps this rather balanced. Oranges, lychee, guava, the juicy fruit plays well with mangnolia, dandelion, clove and white pepper, and I get notes of sweet honey and exotic spice as well. Grows on me with air as complexity pops. Impressive. (90 points)

2016 Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Calcaire - France, Alsace
SRP: $43
Medium yellow color. Rich aromatics of pineapple, apricot jam and lychee along with complex honeysuckle, clove, spiced tea and dandelion. Rich and plump on the palate, but the acidity comes through and keeps this one fresh and kicking (more so than the others in this lineup). Creamy pineapple, guava and lemon curd fruit mixes well with spiced, honeyed white tea, minerals, chalky notes, and a nutty-lychee component. Delicious, rich, but so vibrant, age-worthy too. From 30-year-old vines in calcareous soils, aged 18 months in old French oak, 12.5% alcohol. (91 points)

2014 Domaine Saint-Rémy Gewurztraminer Rosenberg - France, Alsace
SRP: $28
Deep yellow color. A tropical burst on the nose with peach nectar, guava, honey, bold floral perfume and spicy, waxy elements. Rich texture on the palate, plush and slightly waxy but fresh acidity moderates and livens up the wine. Oranges, guava, pineapple and lychee, dusted with mineral, spiced tea, floral perfume, rosewater, white pepper. I wager this could age nicely for quite a few years. Beautiful stuff. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Crémant d'Alsace - Delicious Champagne-Method Bubbles <$25

High quality Champagne-method sparkling wine and value — not always an easy combination to come by. Luckily, Crémant d’Alsace exists.

For less than $25, Crémant d’Alsace provides some of my favorite sparkling wines from France. In Alsace, the producer Lucien Albrecht first began applying the Champagne method process to their own grapes in 1971, and, after lobbying the French authorities for an official designation, the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée Crémant d’Alsace was born in 1976. Now, producers all over Alsace make wines this way from a variety of grapes. I’ve been drinking Crémant d’Alsace since I was legally able to purchase alcohol, because I found a few reliably good producers whose wines were so delicious and affordable.

I’m a Champagne worshipper; nothing will ever rival that. But I can’t always spend the money on Champagne, and sometimes I want something good but inexpensive to share with family and friends. And this is where Alsace wines excel, with high quality and $20-ish price points.

Since my last post on Alsace, I received four Crémants d’Alsace, all of which should retail for $25 or less. These wines were received as samples and tastes sighted. 

N.V. Gustave Lorentz Crémant d'Alsace - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace

SRP: $25
Light gold color. Aromas of yellow apples, toasted biscuits, crushed shells, cut flower stems. On the palate this is crisp and nervy with a mineral tang and flavors of lemon, green apple. Toasted bread crumbs, chalk dust, floral perfume, this is a bright and zesty style that really powers through on the finish. Yum. A split blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. (90 points)

N.V. J.B. Adam Crémant d'Alsace Emotion - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $22
Light gold color. Bright and floral on the nose, also yellow apples, lemons, with richer cinnamon, biscuits and nougat. Zesty and brisk on the palate, I like the chalky brightness on this wine, but depth is impressive, too. Apricots and limes dusted with chalk, sea salt and candied orange peel. 95% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Noir. (89 points)

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $22
Pale rose petal color. Fresh and floral aromas of red apple peel, peaches and ruby red grapefruit with some spicy nettle. Crisp and bright on the palate with zesty strawberry, red apple peel, along with spiced white tea, chalk dust and some white pepper. Fresh, brisk, minerally. All Pinot Noir. (87 points)

N.V. Willm Crémant d'Alsace Blanc de Noirs - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $15
Very pale copper color. Yeasty and biscuit nose with apricot, red apple peel, lemon zest, mixed with yellow flowers, honeysuckle and musky cologne. Lively and crisp on the palate with a deep mineral and slate element, impressive depth, highly delicious. Strawberries, lemons and apricots mixed with musk, yellow flowers, almond and rose hips. For $15, this could easily become a house sparkling wine. All Pinot Noir. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Exploring Alsace with Pinot Blanc, Gris and Noir

If I trace my love for wine all the way back, it starts in Alsace. I was living in the far southwestern corner of Germany, in boarding school for 11th and 12th grades, and Alsace was a quick trip. I made a few excursions into quaint villages there, scarfing down (and swooning over) the local food, hiking around steep hills —I was enthralled by the way vineyards carved their place into the hillsides, all over the place.

As I hiked, I noticed vineyards planted into what looked like pure rock, and there were so many different kinds of rocks and chunks of earth that changed from ridge to ridge. Each nook and cranny was different. After a hike, I walked into a bistro in a small village, ordered a bowl of French onion soup, and asked if the bartender had any wine from the huge vineyard that climbed up the steep hills above town. I spoke no French and he almost no English (there was much pointing and gesturing) but I was served a glass of white wine I understood came from the vineyard I had just hiked through.

My teenage mind was blown away at this concept. I don’t remember the wine, I think it was a Riesling, and I had no idea how to evaluate or appreciate it in any serious sense. But it was delicious. And, more importantly, it instilled in me a desire to find more about this relationship between specific places and their wines.

All this to say, to this day, I have a special appreciation for wines from Alsace. They continue to intrigue and excite me, so I’m always happy to review more of them. This week, I have a range of wines from Alsace, all hailing from the extended Pinot family (Noir, Gris, Blanc). Like a lot of wines from this region, they can be moderately priced, considering the high quality.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $22
Bright and floral aromas with grapefruit, peaches, red apple peel, spicy herbal notes. Zesty and crisp on the palate with lots of red apples, grapefruit, red apple peel, along with notes of spiced tea, white pepper and floral perfume. So good for the money, this is fresh and lively and crowd-pleasing. All Pinot Noir. (87 points)

2016 Paul Blanck Pinot Blanc - France, Alsace
SRP: $16
Pale yellow color. Nose of crushed shells, raw almond, honeysuckle, over peaches and apples. Rich texture but medium-body, brisk acid meets plump apricot and peach. Notes of salty seashells on a dry and crisp finish – a summer day, oysters and shellfish style Pinot Blanc. (87 points)

2013 Albert Boxler Pinot Blanc Reserve - France, Alsace
SRP: $28
Deep yellow color. Aromas are rich with honey and bruised apple, but also bright and lively with lemon verbena, chalk and minerals. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, while medium-bodied and honeyed texture adds depth. Peaches, apricot, lime, lemon, doused in minerals, chalk dust and smashed rocks. Deep, focused, yet airy and elegant at the same time. Some interesting cellar potential here. (90 points)

2013 Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve - France, Alsace
SRP: $26
Light yellow color. Aromas of apricot, papaya, drizzled with lime, topped with seashells and floral perfume. Medium-bodied on the palate, crisp and nervy style with a long streak of minerals and crushed shells. Dry but packed with fruit (papaya, pineapple, lime juice), with some white floral tones. Lovely, crisp but complex Pinot Gris that has a few years of aging potential for sure. (89 points)

2016 Emile Beyer Pinot Gris Tradition - France, Alsace
SRP: $20

Light gold color. Aromas of apricots, yellow plums, yellow raisins, rich with honey but also some bright white floral notes. Plump and rich on the palate but moderating acidity. Yellow plums, juicy apricots, laced with honey, cinnamon spiced tea, some crushed chalk and mineral tones clean out the finish. Rich texture and fruit but also clear and pretty. (88 points)

2016 Lucien Albrecht Pinot Gris Cuvée Romanus - France, Alsace
SRP: $18
Pale yellow color. Plump aromas of peaches, nectarine, spiced white tea, honeysuckle, daisies. Rich and juicy fruit on the palate but fresh acidity, this shows peaches cantaloupe, nectarine, along with some floral, white pepper, mineral tones. Pleasant and easy to drink but sports solid complexity. (88 points)

2016 Domaine Osterag Pinot Noir Les Jardins - France, Alsace
SRP: $27
Interesting light purple color. Aromas of juicy black cherries and raspberries, a lovely spicy herbal and pepper element, with roses and violets and rhubarb. Bright and airy feel to this wine, even though the acidity is tart and the tannins show grip. The fruit is red, bright and delicious, and I love those classic Alsace earthy-spice elements (this one shows black tea, rhubarb, black pepper). I’d like to see how this shows in four to five years. (89 points)

2014 Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Noir Les Princes Abbés - France, Alsace
SRP: $29
Medium ruby color. Aromas of tart cherries, strawberries, along with pickling spices, roses, spices tea, earthy-tobacco notes. Medium-bodied, dusty tannins, zippy acidity, it all lines up very well. Tart cherries, strawberries, red plums, laced with tobacco, sage, mushroom, pickle notes. I tasted this a year ago, and it’s developed nicely since then and should continue to do so. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Crémants & Aromatic Whites from Alsace's Lucien Albrecht

For the money, Crémant d’Alsace is some of France’s best Champagne-method sparkling wine. And for that, we largely have Lucien Albrecht to thank.

In 1971, this Alsace producer began trying the Champagne method on their own grapes. They liked the outcomes, so, along with two other producers, they pressed French authorities for an official designation. In 1976, Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée Crémant d’Alsace was born.

Forty-two years later, Lucien Albrecht is still carrying the Crémant d’Alsace torch, producing two main cuvées: a Brut (made from Pinot Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc, and Chardonnay) and a Brut Rosé (made from Pinot Noir). They produce other white wines as well (Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Blanc), but the firm is perhaps best known for their bubbles.

The Albrecht name in Alsace goes quite a ways back, to 1698, when Balthazar Albrecht settled in Orschwihr, a village in southern Alsace. This was a few decades after the Thirty Years’ War, which left much of Alsace destroyed, but Balthazar pieced together a living cultivating vines around Orschwihr, and passed this on to his descendants. Today, the firm sources grapes from Grand Cru vineyards Pfingstberg, Spiegel, and Ollwiller, as well as Bollenberg.

I recently met up with Lucien Albrecht winemaker Jerome Keller when he visited Washington, DC, to chat and taste through his wines. Today, the winery is owned by a cooperative, and it purchases many grapes from very small, independent producers, all around the winery’s home of Orschwihr. They produce about half a million cases, with most of their production focused on crémant. The vineyard sources around Orschwihr are planted in dry clay and heavy chalk soils, and I found that the chalky terroir element shines through nicely in the finished wines.

Jerome talked a lot about the dryness of his wine, something I’ve heard from other Alsace winemakers still trying to point out to American consumers that Alsace wines are frequently dry and zesty or just so zesty that they taste dry. And while the importance of history is always front and center in conversation about Alsace wines, I was excited to hear that Jerome has some new plans to make a skin-fermented (i.e., orange) wine from Chardonnay. While not “new,” (orange wines are as old as wine itself), it’s nice to see some Alsatian innovation in this realm, and I, for one, am stoked about the idea.

My notes on the wines I tasted are below, and the prices are based on Wine-Searcher averages.

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
$22
Nose shows bright flowers, ruby red grapefruit, and peaches. Zesty on the palate, slight creaminess, this is bright and tangy Cremant with flavors of red apple, ruby red grape fruit, and chalk dust. Fresh, fun, reliably good. All Pinot Noir. (87 points)

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
$18
I get chalk dust, white and yellow flowers, along with peaches and yellow apples on the nose. The palate is crisp and tangy with flavors of yellow apples, peaches, a solid streak of saline and chalk dust, hints of biscuits. Delicious for the price. A blend of Auxerrois and Pinot Blanc. (87 points)

2013 Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Chardonnay Brut 1698 - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
$45
This really surprised me. Aromas of rich yellow apples and pears, some salted almond, honey and crushed chalk. Zesty but some creaminess adds depth. Pears, yellow plums and bruised apple mix with sea salt, chalk dusty and a slight note of fresh biscuits. Richer than the non-vintage wines, but still focused, crisp, mineral-driven and very bright. I'd love to bury a bottle of this for three to six years. This was aged three years on the lees, and it has a 4 g/l dosage. All Chardonnay from limestone soils. (91 points)

2017 Lucien Albrecht Riesling Reserve - France, Alsace
$15
Rich and honeyed and peachy on the nose, but also some chalk dust and flowers. Crisp acidity and a fresh appeal (2g of sugar in here) with peaches, apricots, limes. Honey, saline, chalk and minerals add complexity. Concentrated fruit from a low-yielding vintage, this is delicious right now but will improve with a few years. (90 points)

2017 Lucien Albrecht Pinot Gris Cuvée Romanus - France, Alsace
$18
Juicy aromas of peaches, honey and yellow flowers. Bold fruit (peaches, mango) but still fresh. Fruit-forward but some interesting floral, spice tones as well. (88 points)

2012 Lucien Albrecht Riesling Pfingstberg - France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
$29
Gorgeous aromatics of peaches, nectarines, tennis balls, honey. On the palate, this is richly textured but so crisp and delicious. Juicy fruit but deep mineral presence. Lots of life ahead for this beauty. (92 points)

2016 Lucien Albrecht Gewurztraminer Reserve - France, Alsace
$17
Pretty aromatic display of lychee, peach nectar and spiced tea. Rich and lush on the palate with medium acidity, hint of tannin on here, too (this gets a bit of skin contact). Apricots, mango, peaches, bold fruit but laced with spices, herbs and nuts. (89 points)

2015 Lucien Albrecht Gewurztraminer Spiegel Alsace Grand Cru - France, Alsace
$47
Intense aromatics of pineapples, peach nectar, lychee, with white pepper. Rich and full but bright acidity. Peaches and mangoes topped in nougat, honey, white pepper, spiced tea. Wow this boasts a lot of complexity and will age nicely. (91 points)

Alsace is Primo for Pinot Blanc, Gris & Noir

Alsace is primo Pinot territory. Not just Pinot Noir, of course, but its related varieties Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc have long and heralded histories in this region. I recent tasted through a few Pinots from Alsace and, unsurprisingly, I found a lot to like. 

I love the vibrancy, tanginess and minerality of this wines. But, especially in the whites, there’s such enjoyable interplay between plump texture and rich fruit flavors. There’s always some level of difficulty determining how sweet an Alsace white wine will be (demonstrated by the two Pinot Gris wines in this tasting). If it says “vendange tardive,” meaning late harvest, you know you’re in for some sugar. But, otherwise, determining sweetness isn’t easy unless you’re well versed in the producer’s style. 

What’s easy about Alsace is the fact that the grape varieties are generally listed right there on the front label, and the prices can be quite reasonable.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2015 Paul Blanck Pinot Blanc - France, Alsace
SRP: $ 16
Light gold color. Smells like fresh limes and white peaches topped in crushed chalk, limestone and intense white and yellow flowers. Medium-bodied with brisk acidity and a pleasant, slightly honeyed texture. Tangerine and peach nectarine blend with chalk, saline, white pepper, cut flowers. Deep, lingering sense of minerals. Crisp but lots of flavor and texture. (90 points)

2014 François Baur Pinot Blanc Herrenweg - France, Alsace
SRP: $18
Light gold color. Pretty and rich on the nose with lemon curd, lemon oil and tangerine, also some crushed shells, floral perfume and vanilla potpourri. Deep texture with bright acidity. Complex, balanced, rich and honeyed but lip-smacking and vibrant. Apricots, lemons, orange marmalade, the fruit blends with spiced white tea and salted almond. Very long, impressive in depth and complexity. I’d love to see how this ages over the next three to five years. (90 points)

2014 Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Gris Les Princes Abbés - France, Alsace
SRP: $20
Light gold color. Nose of lemon curd, apricot, pineapple, notes of crushed shells. Plump texture with fresh acidity, just a hint of sweetness, and it all lines up in balance. Juicy fruit (apricot, orange, lemon curd), mineral water, quinine, mint and sea salt notes with elements of white flowers and clean laundry. Very delicious but also precise and age-worthy. Long, lasting, mineral-encrusted finish. 13.5% alcohol and about 7 g/l residual sugar. Pure Alsace Pinot Gris goodness. (90 points)

2010 Maurice Schoech Pinot Gris Mambourg - France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
SRP: $30
Rich golden color. Smells like candle waxy, quinine, honeycomb, slight oxidative notes but woven in well with the bruised yellow apple and orange marmalade. Plump and richly textured with significant sweetness and moderate acidity. Flavors of apricots, orange marmalade, lemon pith, with notes of lamp oil and wax. Finishes with minerals and floral complexity. It seems a bit too sweet for my preference (40 g/l sugar) but quite nice. (87 points)

2014 Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Noir Les Princes Abbés - France, Alsace
SRP: $26
Very pale ruby color. Smells bright and refreshing with pomegranate, sour cherry and wild strawberry along with pepper, mushroom and lots of roses. Medium-bodied with fresh, lip-smacking acidity and subtle tannic structure. Crisp, chilled red fruits mix well with earth, mushroom and rosebush notes. Bright, refreshing, open for business and near-term enjoyment. (88 point)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Pinot Noir from Alsace, Burgundy, Italy & California

It’s time for a lot of Pinot Noir. Well, it’s always time for Pinot, but I recently tasted through a bunch of them from all over the world, most of which are not very expensive.

This report features a few leaner, zestier versions from Alsace, most of which I think over-deliver for the price. Speaking of good prices, we’ve also got some value-driven Pinots from lesser heralded villages in Burgundy. While not exactly thrilling, some of these $20-$25 bottles are seriously good for the money. Lastly, I’ve included a Pinot from Italy and a few from California that I received after I’d already conducted my California Pinot single-blind tastings for the fall.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2014 Domaine Ostertag Pinot Noir “E” - France, Alsace
SRP: $26
Juicy cherry color. Aromas of bright strawberries, red apple peel, rhubarb, white pepper and spiced tea. On the palate, I get brisk acidity with silky tannins, a bit lean in body but so fresh and tangy. Red apple, tart strawberries and red plums combine with complex elements of rose petal, sage, white pepper, tar and spiced black tea. Lovely now but could improve over the next few years. This isn’t a chewy, in-your-face kind of Pinot, but a lean and zesty one. If you like that style, this is really good stuff. (89 points)

2014 J.B. Adam Pinot Noir Alsace Les Natures - France, Alsace
SRP: $25
Light ruby color. Aromas of tart strawberries, white cherries, lots of rhubarb, some roses, black tea, hints of green olive. Medium-bodied with brisk, tart acidity and some dusty tannins for moderate structure. So brisk and bright in its red apple, cranberry sauce and wild strawberry fruit, backed up by white pepper, soy, green olive, the savory spice aspects get more and more complex with air. Deliciously zesty but this has a lot going on. Fermented in century-old casks and aged a year in bottle before release. (88 points)

2008 Hugel et Fils Pinot Noir Jubilee - France, Alsace

Winemaker Etienne Hugel died
earlier this year, way too soon,
but his great wines live on.

SRP: $42
Rich ruby color. Gorgeous nose of raspberry leaf tea, bright strawberries, red currants, topped with nettle, sage, some wet forest floor and mushroom notes as well. Vibrant acidity on the palate, dusty tannins, lots of complexity in this wine and it needs air to open up properly. I get tart red apple and wild raspberry fruit mixed wonderfully with notes of rose petals, savory spices and mushroom. A delicious wine but it’s so elegant and contemplative, too. Still lots of life ahead. From the limestone soils of the Pflostig vineyard. (91 points)

2014 Domaine Barmes-Buecher Pinot Noir Reserve - France, Alsace
SRP: $30
Vibrant rose color Aromas of lush red cherry and raspberry jam, very fruit-forward but lots of roses and sweet spice notes, too. Light/medium-boded with smooth tannins, but enough to frame the wine structurally, bright acidity. Juicy red cherries and raspberries taste so fresh and silky, and I get complex notes of rose petal, clay soil, pepper, bay leaf, and more savory notes come out with time. Plush but tangy, a more voluptuous wine (compared to the others) but it stays precise. Drinking wonderfully but I’d love to revisit in three or four years. (90 points)

N.V. Parigot & Richard Crémant de Bourgogn Rosé - France, Burgundy, Crémant de Bourgogne
SRP : $24
A salmon/copper color. Bright and floral aromas with chalk and toasted bread on top of raspberries, white cherries and rose hips. Fresh acidity, a bit lean, but really fresh and tart. White cherries, tart strawberries and watermelon rind with notes of chalk and cut flowers. (87 points)

2015 Maison Chanzy Rully En Rosey Rouge - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Rully
SRP: $22
Rich ruby color. Smells of juicy raspberries, cranberry sauce, lots of smoke and some pepper and pickling spices. Very smooth on the palate despite some grippy tannins, and the acid keeps it fresh. Darker, juicy black cherries and plum fruit, backed up by violets, dark soil, soy and some coffee. Plush but nicely structured, this is accessible now but really opens up after a few hours, and I’d love to taste it again in two to four years. Another great value, and it really shows some of the high quality but inexpensive options out there in the 2015 vintage. (88 points)

2015 Louis Latour Santenay - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Santenay

Really good Burgundy for $20!

SRP: $20
Medium ruby color. Smells of juicy cherries and red plums with some dusty earth and violet notes. On the palate this shows supple but structured tannins and fresh acidity, a nice balance. Red cherries and plum fruit is juicy and ripe and mixed with notes of dusty earth, violets, sage and some sweet cola. Open and quite pretty but should improve for a few years. Seriously good value right here! (88 points)

2014 Gabriel Billard Bourgogne Cuvée Milliane Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne
SRP : $20
Bright ruby color. Smells of juicy cherries and sweet raspberries. More fruit-forward aromas but the fruit is still tart and lively and I get notes of roses and sweet cola. The acidity is quite tart and the tannins are light. This Pinot shows tangy red apples and wild strawberries along with notes of soil, leather and light roast coffee. Perhaps a bit thin, but it’s a fresh and tangy wine for early consumption. (85 points)

2014 Michel Magnien Fixin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Fixin
SRP: $28
Deep ruby color. Aromas of juicy red cherries and tart raspberries with some tobacco, rose hips and cedar. Medium-bodied, some moderate grip to the tannins, medium acidity. Flavors of darker cherries and raspberry jam, the fruit is touched with tobacco, earth, coffee, some wood and smoky campfire notes. Good stuff but could use some air or a year or two to open up. (87 points)

2014 Benoit Cantin Irancy - France, Burgundy, Côtes d'Auxerre, Irancy
SRP: $24
Medium ruby color. Very bright and tart on the nose with cherries, strawberries, roses and wildflowers. Fresh and zesty on the palate, medium-bodied, light-to-medium tannins, a fine dusty and tart feel to the wine. Tart strawberry and red apple peel blend with light earth tones. Ready to go right out of the bottle, good for those who like a brisker style. (86 points)

2015 Peter Zemmer Pinot Noir Rollhütt - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $18
Vibrant raspberry color. Smells like tangy strawberries, pomegranate and some green pepper, tobacco, raspberry leaf tea and a kick of rhubarb — very interesting aromas. Medium-bodied with light tannins and fresh acidity. Sour cherries mix with sweet strawberries and notes of tobacco, rhubarb and dill. Delicious, fresh, accessible Süditrol Pinot for a very reasonable price. (88 points)

2014 Frank Family Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $35
Pale ruby color. Aromatically rocking with lots of roses, nettle and sage on top of crisp, cool raspberries and cherries — lots of complex aromas pop with air. Full-bodied and velvety with smooth tannin and moderate acidity. Juicy strawberries and raspberry jam play off of cola, rhubarb, rose petal, white pepper, hints of caramel coffee. Rich and voluptuous (and some cellar potential) but it’s also vibrant and absolutely delicious. Aged 10 months in 1/3 new French oak. (89 points)

2014 Equavinity Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $48
Light ruby color. Aromas of juicy raspberry and wild strawberry, crisp red apple peel, topped with rose hips, rhubarb, hints of mint and oregano. Full-bodied but smooth and silky with fine tannins and crisp acidity, makes it refreshing to sip despite richness of texture. Bright notes of red flowers, white pepper, lemon zinger tea, mint and eucalyptus. Lots going on here in terms of complexity and richness, but it’s so fresh and inviting, too. Aged 14 months in 25% new French oak. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Crémant d’Alsace: More Bubbles for Your Buck

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

If I could afford it, I’d drink Champagne always. But Crémant d’Alsace tends to be my go-to bubbly when I’m trying not to break the bank. I served a Crémant d’Alsace at my wedding last year, and it was a huge hit — and not very expensive.

I recently tasted through four Crémants d’Alsace and enjoyed all of them. These wines were received as trade samples and, because there were only four of them, tasted sighted.

N.V. René Muré Crémant d’Alsace Brut - France, Alsace, Crémant d’Alsace

SRP: $18

Salty on the nose with some hazelnut, biscuits, quinine and crushed rocks. Fine bubbles, medium acid, some creaminess to the mouthfeel, stays lean and zippy though. Ruby red grapefruit and green apple mix with elements of cucumber water, minerals and limestone. Notes of graham cracker, vanilla and almond. Decent depth and length of finish, with elements of oyster shell. A blend of Pinot Blanc, Auxerrois, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. (87 points)

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rosé - France, Alsace, Crémant d’Alsace

SRP: $20

Nose of white and red flowers, watermelon and strawberries. Very fizzy on the palate, this is a fun wine, but it's neither deep nor complex. Tangy with flavors of watermelons, strawberries, lemons and some minerals. Seems like a crowd-pleasing pink bubbly. 100% Pinot Noir. (85 points)

N.V. François Schmitt Crémant d’Alsace Blanc de Noirs Brut - France, Alsace, Crémant d’Alsace

SRP: $29

Crisp and clean aromas of oyster shell, flowers, white peach and white cherries. Creamy but tangy on the palate, the white cherry and apricot fruit is laced with oceanic elements of sea salt and oyster shell. Finishes with minerals and slight toast. 100% Pinot Noir From 40-year-old vines in Orschwihr. (87 points)

N.V. Domaine Agape Crémant d’Alsace “Emotion” - France, Alsace, Crémant d’Alsace
SRP: $23

Smells like white flowers, green apple, toasted and salted nuts and. Big and creamy on the palate, but also fine and tangy. Green apple, white peach and some lime, the wine is also laced with minerals and toasted bread. Solid complexity and depth. (88 points)

Three Terroir-Driven Rieslings

Riesling is endlessly fascinating for its diversity and ability to translate different vineyards into flavors. A transparent grape, lovers of terroir never tire of Riesling’s complexity.

I recently tasted through three Riesling from three different regions: Germany’s Rheingau, Austria’s Kamptal and France’s Alsace. They were all exciting wines, offering entirely different takes on this one grape, showing the complexities of their unique terroir. The wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. I had fun chatting with industry reps at @AustrianWineUSA, @DrinkAlsace and @GermanWineUSA using the #winechat hashtag.

My notes on the three Rieslings…

2011 Schloss Schönborn Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Rheingau

$24
Much more floral and honey-driven on the nose, with some riper white peach and mango nectar, lots of potpourri. Creamy and fresh on the palate, a great balance of body and acid, a hint of sweetness. White peach, caramel apple and mango, drizzled with lime. Hints of dusty earth, white flowers and clovers. The finish shows interesting notes that remind me of tonic and pencil lead. Quite complex, this could develop well over the next 3-5, probably more. I like the nerve of this wine. 9.5% alcohol. From loam, chalk, marl and sand soils. (89 points)

2011 Weingut Brandl Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal

$34
Very stony on the nose, it reminds me of mountain stream rocks, ocean jetties and crushed chalk. The fruit aromas tend toward the green apple and kiwi. Full bodied (14% alcohol) and bold but clean with fresh acid. The apricot, kiwi and green apple fruit are ripe but tart, laced with lots of chalky, crushed stone elements. Wow, really chalky, with some seashell and sea salt and jetty rocks and a whole lot of saltwater. As a surfer, I’m loving this oceanic streak. It’s tangy and mineral-driven but a full and big wine that could use some age or a decant. The chalkiest of the three, I even get some earth and library dust. I dream of drinking this with some steamed mussels, but it’s strong enough to balance out a variety of strong cheeses. Every time I’ve tasted a Heiligenstein, I’ve been excited, and this is no exception. From sandstone and siltstone soils. (91 points)

2010 Paul Blanck Riesling Schlossberg - France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru AOC

SRP: $34
Bright gold color. Gorgeous nose of chamomile tea, clover honey, apricot jam, candied orange peel, lamp oil, some dusty notes. Crisp acid, I love the balance of tartness and richness in this wine. Clean, medium+ bodied, just a hint of sweetness. A whole fruit salad of apricot, green apple, kiwi, green melon, drizzled with honey and crushed rocks. A deep and pervasive sense of smoky minerals in this wine. Long finish with screaming acid. Age-worthy for sure. Aged on the lees in oak for a year and aged two to three years after bottling. From the granite soils of Alsace’s Grand Cru Schlossberg vineyard. 13% alcohol. (92 points)

I’d love to conduct this same tasting three or four years from now, because I’m sure these three Rieslings have many more stories to tell.

Drink any good Old World Riesling lately?

Cheers!