California on the mind: special selections

California has been on my mind a lot lately. I’ve been following harvest reports and wineries as they prepare the 2022 vintage. And with the long-term drought, the recent heat wave, and now there’s a threat of flooding from hurricane leftovers? Sheesh! I hope you any California readers have been staying cool and well over this stretch.

So, this week, I have some really special wines from California to share – some chosen selections from producers I’ve grown to respect and appreciate.

Singer Wines at Baker Lane Estate really comes out swinging with two exceptional Rhone wines. Made by legend Stephen Singer, the wines from this west-facing site in the Sebastopol Hills speak with a crystal-clear voice to their place and grapes. If you’re looking for highly delicious yet nuanced Syrah and Viognier, these small-production wines are definitely worth your time and money.

Eden Rift makes some focused and singular Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, and it was a privilege to taste their 2019s. From the limestone-rich soils of the Cienega Valley, these are wines you taste and can just tell they come from a very special place. Especially considering the prices, the wines consistently overperform, and the 2019s are singing.

Sonoma is well represented here, including by Sonoma-Cutrer’s new Grand Brut Rosé, which certainly overdelivers for the price. LaPelle performs with a striking Bien Nacido Pinot Noir, and DuMOL’s Pinot offering is also delightful. Lastly, I also have a Paso Robles Cab that’s a whole lot of fun -- Tooth and Nail’s wines are reliably delicious and this Cab is like a chunky slab of rock-and-roll in the glass, for a solid price.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Sonoma-Cutrer Grand Brut Rosé Winemaker's Release - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $55
Deep copper color. A gorgeous aromatic display that combines raspberries, white cherries and tart yellow apples with richer tones of honey and biscuits and bracing elements of chalk and talc. On the palate, this is crisp and nervy, pure and racy, with a core of red apple, raspberry and white cherry fruit. The balance is delightful, and it has this deep but crunchy feel, with tones of biscuits, honey and hay tossed with seashells, minerals, flowers, combining for this ocean meets spring meadow appeal. Complex and nervy, this should age wonderfully and is one of the best California sparkling wines I’ve tasted in a while. 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay. (93 points)

2021 Singer Wine Viognier Baker Lane Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $75
Medium yellow color. Classic deep Viognier aromas, but it has a lot of unique twists and turns that are a delight to follow: banana, kiwi, white peach, with honeycomb and raw almond, notes of chalk dust and sea salt. On the palate – wow! – the acidity is racy and fresh (thankfully) which balances well with the deep, waxy texture and juicy papaya and pineapple fruit (a drizzle of lime in there, too). The floral tones are perfumed but nuanced, and tones of chalk dust and saline are welcomed. Creamy but fresh, a delightful Sonoma Viognier worth seeking out. From a cool, west-facing site that really shines through, this is 13.8% alcohol and aged five months in neutral oak. (93 points)

2019 Singer Wine Syrah Baker Lane Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $95
Deep purple color. The nose is delightfully spicy, with these paprika, red pepper flakes and black pepper dusted over a host of fresh blueberries and tart red plums – and it works so, so well. The tangy acidity sets the stage, dusty but structured tannins offer structure and grip, while the balance and freshness are on point. Tangy blackberries and red/black currant fruit mixes with lots of violets, clove, black pepper, with loamy earth and a hint of barbecue sauce and grilled meat. Spicy, fresh, floral, delicious, this will do wonders in the cellar, too. 15% whole cluster fermentation, includes 2% Viognier, aged 26 months in 450-liter puncheons, 13.8% alcohol. (94 points)

2020 DuMOL Pinot Noir Wester Reach Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $80
Medium ruby color. So alive on the nose including red cherries, plums and raspberries, with a complex web of spice and floral elements (rose hips, rhubarb, cola, white pepper, tobacco, sage). The palate shows crisp acidity and smooth, structured tannins with a juicy, fresh appeal. The raspberry, red apple and cherry fruit is crunchy and zesty, and it mixes well with complexities of earth, rhubarb, tomato leaf, with nuanced cola, roasted chestnut and birch elements. Vibrant, forward but earthy and dusty. This should do nicely with three or four years in the cellar but it’s expressive already. A blend from vineyards including Flax Estate, DuMol Estate, Occidental Road and others, aged 12 months in 25% new French oak. (92 points)

2019 Eden Rift Chardonnay Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley
SRP: $42
Rich gold color. The aromas are so bright and spritely, with chalk dust, yellow flowers, meadow breeze, with lemons, limes and pineapple. Pure and crisp on the palate, a zippy yet creamy mouthfeel, delightful balance. The yellow apple, lime and papaya fruit blends well with flinty minerals, clover, honey, accents of almond and candle wax. Deep texture but stays racy and feels effortless throughout. So much Chardonnay goodness for the price. (93 points)

2019 Eden Rift Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley
SRP: $48
Bright ruby color. On the nose, this is airy and floral, and I get tart cranberry relish, pomegranate fruit and red cherries. Full of seasonings and spices (white pepper, clove, rhubarb, celery seed), and the combination is invigorating. On the palate, this is smooth and silky but structured, with lip-smacking acidity and a bright, balanced feel. Tangy raspberries and red apple peel, such pretty texture and mouthfeel, with elements of clay, rhubarb, dusty earth, rose petals and white pepper. This will age marvelously. (93 points)

2019 Eden Rift Pinot Noir Palmtag Block - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley

SRP: $78
Gorgeous ruby color. So breezy and floral on the nose, yet such depth, too: rose hips, rhubarb, white pepper, oregano and basil over top of crunchy cranberry and wild raspberry fruit. Crisp acidity and fine-grained tannins make for a pure and balanced wine, and the red fruit is vibrant and alive (cranberry, red apple, raspberry). Complex notes of rhubarb, rose petals, paprika and white pepper add a lot to ponder, and the mouthfeel is fantastic. Their first single-block Pinot, from between the flatter vineyards and the terraces. A real beauty that has a lot more to show in the cellar. (95 points)

2020 Tooth & Nail Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $26
Vibrant purple color. Juicy but pretty on the nose with cherries and plum sauce, along with savory and spicy elements of clove, anise, creosote and pepper – has a real grill-out vibe that is a ton of fun. Suave on the palate with enough acidity to keep it lively and a chewy but nuanced feel. Blackberry, raspberry and fig fruit meld well with tones of tar, roasted red pepper and graphite. Ripe and fun but quite complex and balanced as well. Aged 10 months in 25% new French oak, this bottle has an augmented reality character-driven label as well. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

New California Releases: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir & Syrah

It’s finally fall, and the samples from California have been rolling in. This week, I’m focusing on some newly-releases Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs and Syrahs.
 
I’ve really enjoyed FEL’s take on classic Mendocino Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and their 2017s from the Savoy Vineyard are really something. They ride a clean line between being really pretty and expressive, but also and age-worthy as well. 

Gary Farrell is well-known for producing Sonoma Pinot and Chard, and they offer a wide portfolio of wines. They offer solid value options but also more complex, single-vineyard wines, which, given their quality, are very reasonably priced. 

Ramey and Sosie really deliver with some Sonoma Syrahs that would rock with some time in the cellar. 

And a few other fun, value-driven wines round out this week’s report. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

N.V. J Vineyards & Winery Cuvée 20 - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $38/750ml
Pale gold color. Nice mix of biscuits and pie crust aromas, along with tangerine, pears and some salty, sea breeze notes. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, balancing the slight sugar. Pie crust, toasted bread and chalky, perfumed notes accent the tart apples and juicy orange fruit. Crowd-pleasing, pleasant, friendly stuff. 50% Chardonnay, 49% Pinot Noir, 1% Pinot Meunier, 12.5% alcohol, 1.4% residual sugar. Tasted from magnum. (88 points) 

2018 Harken Chardonnay Barrel-Fermented - California
SRP: $15
Deep gold color. Juicy yellow apples, glazed pear and honey butter on the nose, with some floral and toasted nuts. Medium+ bodied, a plush and creamy texture, but moderate acidity keeps it lively. Flavors of orange marmalade, yellow apples and pears, topped in notes of cinnamon, nougat, honey, floral perfume. This sports a lot of fun and flavor, and it also has quite a bit of personality for a California Chardonnay at this price point. All barrel-fermented in American and French oak, 100% maloactic fermentation. (86 points) 

2017 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Russian River Selection - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $35
Deep yellow color. Juicy and tropical aromas, peaches, pineapple, honey, almond butter and yellow flowers. Medium+ bodied with a juicy, creamy texture but vibrant acidity. Yellow apples, pineapple and mango slices, mixed with nuanced notes of honey, salted nuts, minerals and ginger. Delicious and yummy, but it shows a lot of balance and nuance for a Russian River Chardonnay at this price point. Aged nine months in 35% new French oak, 13.7% alcohol. (88 points) 

2016 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Olivet Lane Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Light gold year. Enticing aromas of pears, peach, yellow apples, with complex sea salt, peanut shell, hay and honeycomb. Crisp acidity frames the wine well on the palate, and there’s a pleasantly plump and juicy texture. Medium+ bodied and vibrant with creamy pear, lemon meringue and yellow apple. Notes of minerals, chalk, sea salt, and nuanced elements of almond and vanilla. Complex and harmonious, this opens up nicely and could benefit from a bit of age as well. Aged nine months in 35% new French oak, 13.4% alcohol. (91 points) 

2017 FEL Chardonnay Savoy Vineyard ­- California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $48
Rich yellow color. The aromas boast salted almond, hazelnut, ginger and whipped honey on top of lemon curd and orange marmalade. So pretty and vibrant on the palate, the acidity leaves me salivating but there’s plenty of depth and fruit as well (lemon curd, apricot, kiwi, yellow apple). I get complex notes of whipped honey, graham cracker and peanut brittle, but also more delicate notes of crushed shells, sea salt and shaved ginger. Lovely, complex, full of flavor but really nervy and fresh with a mineral-driven finish. Very pretty stuff that should do well with a few years in the cellar. Barrel-fermented in 55% new French oak, aged 18 months. (92 points) 

2017 Cherry Pie (Hundred Acre) Pinot Noir - California
SRP: $23
Medium ruby color. Sweet nose of cherry pie filling — and that’s not my reaction based on the name, it legit smells like cherry pie — along with raspberry jam, rhubarb and vanilla. Juicy and fun on the palate, this has a playful, smooth, easy-drinking appeal with medium/low acidity and light tannins. Not as candied and gloppy as I was expecting, this shows plump, sweet red fruits mixed with some spiced cranberry sauce, pepper, clove. Light-hearted fun. A blend of fruit from Monterey, Santa Barbara and Napa counties. (85 points) 

2017 FEL Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $70
Deep ruby color. A rush of fresh red fruits on the nose (strawberries, cherries, cranberry and pomegranate), along with mint, menthol, tobacco, rose petal and white pepper notes – beautiful aromas. Juicy and full on the palate but vibrant, bright acidity frames the wine well against a backdrop of structured, round-edged tannins. Black cherry, raspberry, spiced cranberry sauce, the fruit mixes with lots of earthy, minty, leafy, floral complexities. Complex and could age well for at least three to five years, but it remains fresh and so fun to drink. A ripping good Anderson Valley Pinot. (93 pints) 
 
2016 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Hallberg Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $55
Deep ruby color. Inviting nose of violets, rhubarb and roses on top of strawberries, raspberries and cola. On the palate, crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, this has a fresh and lively style with dusty tannins. Juicy strawberries, raspberries, spiced cranberry relish, and I get complex notes of clove, rhubarb, pepper and mint. Notes of earth and nuanced cedar and coffee round out the finish. Fresh, lively, but juicy and complex, this is lovely now but has the stuffing to improve for at least a few years. Aged 15 months in 40% new French oak. (91 points) 

2015 Ramey Syrah Rodgers Creek Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Petaluma Gap

SRP: $65
Light purple. Aromas of tangy strawberries, juicy raspberries, and a spiced cranberry sauce note, along with black pepper, leather, cocoa and mint – gorgeous aromas. Velvety but structured tannins, and vibrant acidity, this Syrah has a tangy, juicy, balanced feel. A nice mix of crunchy red and saucier black fruit, all fresh and lively. Complex notes of violets, leather, pepper, nuanced notes of coffee and vanilla bean. I’d love to see what this does in five years. Native yeast fermentation, this exquisite Syrah was co-fermented with 8% Viognier, aged 25 months in 93% new French oak. (93 points) 

2016 Sosie Syrah Vivio Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley
SRP: $38
Deep purple color. Smoky nose with beefy, meaty, leathery, mesquite notes on top of saucy black cherries and blueberries. Full but fresh on the palate with solid tannic grip, but rounded edges and vibrant, moderating acidity. Tangy black cherries and plums balances well with a lot of interesting flavors: mesquite, menthol, brisket, leather, violets, incense. Complex but straight-up delicious, too. This evolves nicely with air but would benefit rom a few years. When sniffing and sipping, this is one of those Syrahs I can just tell comes from a special place. Co-fermented with 7% Roussanne, aged 20 months in 50% new oak. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Delicious California Rhone Reds

This post was first published on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

This week's tasting report is short and sweet: 5 California Rhone wines that rock. If Claifornia Syrah and Grenache-based blends are your thing, $30 can get you a whole lot of deliciousness. Additionally, Shafer's Relentless Syrah is a teeth-staining ball of awesome that deserves the praise it gets. It's not cheap, but wow.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2012 Qupé Syrah - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $30
Deep-ruby color. Jammy black cherries on the nose along with a whole lot of black pepper, add in some smoke and beef broth. Medium-plus-bodied, dusty tannins, refreshing acid, adds up for a silky but fresh mouthfeel. Juicy yet tart fruit (black cherries, red and black currants). Lots of smoke, charcoal, graphite and black pepper. Mocha and cedar notes woven in well. Good to go, but I’d like to revisit this in three years to see more of these savory elements. Mostly Bien Nacido fruit with 25% from the Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard, the wine is aged 22 months in 25% new oak. (90 points)

2013 Anaba Turbine Red - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma ValleySRP $28
Bright ruby color. Nose: Juicy dark cherries, sweet raspberries, notes of cola, rhubarb pie and lavender as well, opens up quite nicely. Chewy yet velvety texture, solid tannic grip, moderate acid, it’s all working really well together. Black cherry, blueberry and raspberry jam fruit, the fruit is dark and rich but open as well. Notes of cola, black pepper, leather, grilled mushrooms and dark earth add lots of complexity. The coffee, cedar and vanilla notes are woven in well and don’t overpower the other elements. Could definitely use some time to unravel, but a very pretty wine. A blend of 42% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre and 28% Syrah, aged in 30% new French oak. (91 points)

2013 KITÁ Syrah Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP $30
Juicy purple color. Rich blackberry, blueberry and boysenberry fruit, but the non-fruit complexities explode from the glass (black pepper, soy, charcoal pit, roasted nuts and coffee). Medium-to-full-bodied, moderate acid, a fleshy wine with a velvety approach. The blueberry, boysenberry and black currant fruit is fully ripe but maintains a tart, crunchy edge. Complex black pepper, mushroom, balsamic, roasted herbs, so much savory complexity. I also get notes of coffee, cedar, sarsaparilla. Long finish, this needs years to fully express itself, but so much going on here. 13.5% alcohol, all Syrah, aged 18 months in 30% new French oak. (91 points)

2013 KITÁ Spe'y Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez ValleySRP: $30
Medium intensity, bright ruby color. Aromas are gorgeous: black cherries, tart red currants, roses, violets, pepper, bay leaf, rhubarb, just a whole lot of aromas to unpack. Medium-full bodied with full but smooth tannins and a bright, refreshing acidic presence. THe fruit is pure and delicious (juicy black cherries, raspberries, crunchy plums and currants). Non-fruit complexity all over the place: cola, rhubarb, sarsaparilla, clay soil, pencil shavings, nuanced kisses of oak and coffee. Long and complex but leaves the palate refreshed. I'd love to taste again in three-to-five years. A beautiful blend of 58% Grenache, 21% Syrah and 21% Carignan, aged 18 months in 25% new French oak. (92 points)

2012 Shafer Relentless - California, Napa ValleySRP: $85
Almost pitch colored. A dense and brooding wine that will take a long time to coax out all the nuances, but I get a mix of roasted fig, juicy blueberries, tart black currants and plum skins, along with tar, violets, white pepper, rich earth, mocha and anise cookie, hints of savory spice. Massively full-bodied and so chewy on the palate, sturdy tannins but not abrasive, some moderate-low acid ties it together and keeps it from feeling too heavy. The blueberry, black cherry and black currant fruit is pure, tart and juicy with intense ripeness all at once. I get complex notes of pepper, soy, violets, mint, root beer, toasted oak, mocha. Such a long finish, a bit of heat is my only complaint. A dense brick of a wine, yet it’s complex and focused. Very young wine with a very long life ahead. Syrah with 11% Petite Sirah, aged 30 months in all new French oak. (93 points)

Five California Wineries that Wowed Me in 2015

I had the pleasure of tasting a whole lot of California wine this year — from my own collection, during visits with winemakers and trips to wine country, and as part of my weekly wine reviews for the daily wine blog Terroirist. Sure there are some boring, inexpensive multi-regional blends that pass by without much notice. But I am consistently impressed by the amount of good, really good and even thrilling California wines I’ve tasted this year. 

Some of my favorites came from renowned producers and big-name vineyards (Cardinale, Shafer’s Hillside Select, Mondavi’s To Kalon, , Ridge’s Monte Bello), but a handful of relatively new producers really wowed me with exceptional (and far less expensive) wines.  

Like I’ve done in years past, I’ve chosen five California producers to highlight. Some of these producers I’ve known and tasted before, while others were new to me in 2015. The wines from these five producers were so consistently good (regardless of grape variety, vintage, etc.) that their name on a label is enough for me. If they make it, I’m confident the wine will be good. Most likely, it will be damn good. 

Here, in no particular order, are the producers that wowed me this year.

Masút  

Jake and Ben Fetzer know a few things about Mendocino wine. As sons of Mendocino legend Bobby Fetzer (who kicked off Fetzer Vineyards in 1968), they grew up in the vineyards of this sprawling, sparsely populated area of Northern California.

In 1994, Bobby Fetzer purchased a site west of the Redwood Valley appellation called Masút, a Native American word meaning “dark, rich earth.” The first vines were planted in 1997. After Bobby passed away in a rafting accident in 2006, the brothers moved forward with the project. “More determined than ever, we felt a need to continue to move forward in his honor,” they write on the Masút website. “We spearheaded a petition for a new viticultural area called Eagle Peak Mendocino County, and decided to convert a barn on the property to make wine. In 2011, our first vintage was released, and we dedicated it to our father.”

Anyone who talks California wine with me for more than a minute has heard me wax effusively about Mendocino. I fell in love with this region in 2009 and have made a bunch of trips back since, tasting and touring my way around the appellations of Yorkville Highlands, Anderson Valley, Potter Valley and more, exploring the redwoods and surfing remote surf breaks along the rugged coast. So I was thrilled to learn about Mendocino’s new Eagle Peak American Viticultural Area (AVA). The AVA comprises more than 20,000 acres, but only 115 are planted to wine grapes, under the auspices of Masút, Golden, Linholme, Sea Biscuit South, and Turan Vineyards. (I’ve yet to taste any wines from these other producers, but that won’t be the case for long.) All Eagle Peak vineyards sit between 800 and 3,200 feet, which sets this region apart from the neighboring Redwood Valley, where vines are planted at around 600 feet.

This year I tasted my first wines from Jake and Ben, their two 2013 Pinot Noirs. These wines were the first to use the new Eagle Peak AVA on their label. The wines are rich and see lots of new oak, but they’re precise, complex and age-worthy. I can’t wait to explore more wines from this and other Eagle Peak winemakers. 

2013 Masút Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard - Mendocino County, Eagle Peak 

Medium-deep ruby. Lovely, elegant aromatic approach: roses, lavender, lovely red currants and strawberries, some deep and rocky elements, earth and charcoal. Fresh acid on the palate, bright and elegant with dusty tannins and great balance. Tangy yet fleshy red berry fruit, pulls off the rich yet pretty appeal with ease. Complex loam, pipe tobacco and dried roses along with notes of cedar and cherry wood. Long finish. Beautiful, elegant stuff. Beautiful stuff, aged 15 months in 50% new oak. (93 points)

2013 Masút Pinot Noir Two Barrel Estate Vineyard - Mendocino County, Eagle Peak 

Medium-dark ruby color. Nose of deep black cherries, some raspberry and strawberry, too, deeply floral, with violets, also some vanilla cola and cedar. Medium-firm tannins, medium-plus acid, chewy yet pretty fruit (black and red cherries, some strawberry jam). Silky yet full, showing complex flavors of coffee, tobacco, dusty earth, sweet cola, dark chocolate and cedar shavings. Could use a few years, but quite approachable at this point. For 15 months in 100% new French oak, I’m impressed by its balance. (92 points)

Kitá

I’d never tasted a wine from Kitá before this year, but — oh, boy — mine eyes hath been opened! This Santa Ynez-based producer pulls off consistently excellent interpretations of all sorts of wines: Grenache, Syrah, Red Rhone Blends, Grenache Blanc, White Rhone Blends, even Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Apparently they can grow almost anything in the Camp 4 Vineyard, which was planted by the late Fess Parker in 1999 and is now home to a whopping 19 different grape varieties. The 256-acre vineyard, which stretches to the easternmost edge of Santa Ynez Valley near Happy Canyon, was purchased by the Santa Ynez Band of the Chumash Indians in 2010.

Tara Gomez, a member of the Chumash tribe, crafts wines of stunning clarity from the Camp 4 Vineyard. Tara studied Enology at Cal State Fresno with the help of a scholarship from her tribe, and she graduated in 1998. She interned with Fess Parker, worked as enologist for J. Lohr in Paso Robles and kicked off her own label in 2001 called Kalawashaq, through which she focused on Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel and Cabernet Franc. Tara also trekked to Europe to tour wine regions in Spain, France and Germany and study more traditional winemaking methods. 

Kitá (which means “our valley oak” in the native Chumash language of Samala) is a small batch producer (artisinal is a bow cliched, but the term applies here). Tara produces a dizzying array of different wines, but they add up to only 2,000 cases per year (less than 5% of the vineyard’s total crop). 

“Kitá prides itself on its connection and balance to the land, which was a Chumash philosophy I was raised on,” Tara told me in an email message. “With each distinct vintage, I aim for the wines to capture the essence of such a spiritual and extraordinary place.” 

The specialness of this place (and the attention to detail by the vineyard crew and winemaker) is evident in each Kitá wine I’ve tasted. These wines consistently pop out in blind tastings with a sense of purity and freshness. If you get the chance, I highly recommend trying some. The expansiveness and diversity of Gomez's wine portfolio is beyond impressive. 

2013 KITÁ T'aya Camp 4 Vineyard - Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley

Light yellow color. Aromas of green apples, kiwi, lime, margarita salt, some clover and ginger as well, a bit hesitant, needs air to come out and speak. Rich in texture but it has a lighter essence (12.5% alcohol), medium acid. The green and yellow apple fruit is fresh but fully ripe, quite subtle, hesitant even. Some hazelnut, toasted almond, hints of saline and chalk too with the richer honeyed elements. Hints of shaved lime and seashell on the finish. Generous texture but subtle flavors. 59% Marsanne, 39% Roussanne and 2% Grenache Blanc. Very good for the price. (89 points)

2012 KITÁ Spe'y Camp 4 Vineyard - Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley

Light ruby color. Nose of tart red berries, some sweeter, jammier notes, backed up by elements of baking spices, pepper, coffee and toast. Bold approach, some moderate acid, drying tannins of decent strength, alcohol gives it a thicker presence. Tart currants, dark and crunchy cherries and plums. Lots of coffee, toasted nuts, add in some sweet herbal notes, spices, cola and rhubarb. A warm, rich finish. Seems to need a bit of time, as it really opens up with air. 53% Grenache, 27% Syrah and 20% Carignane, aged 18 months in 30% new French oak. (90 points)

2012 KITÁ Syrah Camp 4 Vineyard - Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley

Light purple color. Vibrant and bold on the nose. I get black cherries, currant jam, menthol, sweet cedar, violets, black pepper. Rich texture, medium-low acid, fleshy but quite firm tannins. Black currants, black cherries, some plum fruit, mixed together with menthol, eucalyptus, cedar, cherry cola, roasted coffee, black pepper. Chewy and long on the finish. Delicious, no doubt, but quite bold, perhaps it could use some time. Rich but the wine maintains this element of mystique that I find really attractive. All Syrah, aged 18 months in 30% new French oak. (90 points)

2012 KITÁ Grenache Camp 4 Vineyard - Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley

Pale ruby color. Nose of tart red cherries and strawberries, red flowers and even some cherry blossom and potpourri notes, hints of pepper. Fine tannins, a full body but some richer and fuller notes. Elegant despite its richness, with freshness from the acid. Lovely tart red fruit (strawberries and raspberries), notes of chestnut, tobacco, pepper, a spicy herbal kick, toasted almond, hint of cedar woven in well, spiced coffee, sweet cola. Complex, showing wonderfully right now but could hold for a year or two. Long finish. Exciting stuff. All Grenache, aged 18 months in 25% new French oak. (92 points)

2013 KITÁ Sauvignon Blanc Camp 4 Vineyard - Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley

Light gold color. Nose shows lemons, limes, grapefruit, lychee along with jalapeno, cut grass and oregano. Medium bodied, tangy acid. White peaches, drizzled with ruby red grapefruit juice, lots of grapefruit. Tangy and brisk throughout with notes of chalk, honeysuckle, green onion and spicy Italian oregano. Some hints of honey and orange peel on the finish. So food friendly, definitely a brisk style but showing some richer notes of nougat and raw almond on the finish. Quite complex, could even use some time to open up. Stainless steel plus 20% old oak for eight months. 13% alcohol. (89 points)

2013 KITÁ Grenache Blanc Camp 4 Vineyard - Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley

Light gold color. Aromas of white peaches, yellow apples, topped with honey, dandelion, hints of toasted almond. Clean acid on the palate, the wine has a waxy, full texture but stays bright. White peach, green melon, yellow and green apples, the fruit has a refreshing tartness, which is complemented by the white tea, honeycomb and almond notes (not oaky, though). Hints of chalk, crusty ocean jetties and a slight green herbal spice notes. Complex, full of flavor, yet stays tangy, salty and refreshing throughout. Really unique style. I for one would like to see more California Grenache Blan. (90 points)

2012 KITÁ S'alapay Camp 4 Vineyard - Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley

Bright purple color. Aromas of tart red and black currants, some cool blueberries, notes of roses and lavender, cedar, tobacco leaf and roasted coffee. On the palate, firm yet approachable tannic structure, some impressive tart acid for freshness. Soft around the edges, with juicy red and black fruit, which tastes ripe but still shows some crunchy skin aspects. Tempered noted of roasted nut and cherry wood. Long, clean finish with notes of tobacco and dusty soil. 50% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Franc and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 18 months in 35% new French oak. (89 points)

2012 KITÁ Cabernet Sauvignon Camp 4 Vineyard - Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley

Medium ruby colored. Smells of roasted figs, raspberry jam, some charcoal, sweet oak, coffee and baking spices, tobacco hints. Full-bodied and fruit-forward, but the tannins are easy to chew, medium-low acid, a smooth and rich presence on the palate. Full of juicy, gushing blue and black berries, laced with notes of cola, sweet coffee, earthy-dusty elements. I get cedar, pine, hints of sweet menthol as well. Full of richness and hedonism, but I can’t deny the deliciousness, and I’m loving the velvety feel and complexity of flavors. All Cabernet, aged 18 months in 40% new French oak. (88 points)

2012 KITÁ Pinot Noir Hilliard Bruce Vineyard - Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills

Deep ruby colored. Nose of raspberries and blackberries, red and black cherries, along with loamy soil, sweet rose potpourri, pepper, vanilla, root beer. Very juicy, fresh and attractive nose. Medium-bodied, silky tannins provide a chewy feel, medium acid. The fruit is rich and chewy, black cherries, dark plums, blackberries, add in some vanilla cola, mocha, sweet chewing tobacco, black cherries in ice cream, but also some cracked pepper, loam and Portobello mushroom elements. Despite the forward approach, this shows a lot of subtlety and complexity. Could be popped now, but I would cellar this for three or four years. A lot in here to contemplate over time. I love high acid, and would like this even more if it had a tad more acid, but it’s still quite balanced. 13.1% alcohol, aged 18 months in 25% new French oak. (91 points)

Baker Lane

I swear, it’s not the name that makes me love this wine, although it is quite cool to drink a Baker Lane Pinot with a whole room of Bakers. (My family all loved the stuff, too.) 

Founder Stephen Singer has had his fingers in many (eco-friendly) pies. He’s worked as a wine consultant and mentored with Kermit Lynch. He was also married to Chez Panisse founder Alice Waters, and he served 15 years as wine director for the famous Berkeley restaurant. And he developed his own restaurants, Table 29 in Napa and César in Berkeley. Perhaps this deep experience with high California cuisine helps explain the vibrancy and food-friendly attitude of Baker Lane’s wines.

Winemaker Greg Adams joined Singer in 2007, after working with Flowers, Stags Leap and Lynmar, in addition to stints in Argentina, South Africa, Italy and France. These guys put out some absolutely delicious Syrah and Pinot Noir. I find the wines maintain an earthy, spicy, bright aesthetic, but many of them have plenty of structure to age well. 

Located at the end of Baker Lane in Sebastapol, Sonoma County, Baker Lane Vineyards is home to Syrah and Viognier vines, which are farmed biodynamically. A neighboring vineyard, the organically farmed Ramondo, is the site of some exceptional Syrah and Pinot Noir. The Syrahs I tasted this year are packed with savory, peppery, earthy elements (which is refreshing for old-school Syrah nerds), but they also pack juicy Sonoma Coast fruit that makes them immediately attractive. Lower alcohol and less new oak (10-20%) round out these restrained versions of California Syrah. 

2012 Baker Lane Syrah Sonoma Coast Cuvée - Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

Dark ruby. Lush and exotic on the nose, the blackberry and dark plum fruit mixes with violets, rose potpourri, bay leaf, cracked pepper and roasted coffee. Firm tannins, moderate acid, the wine is big but balanced and could be elegant with time in the cellar. Tart blueberries, black cherries and blackberries, the fruit is dusted with all sorts of spices (black pepper, dried red pepper, oregano, soy sauce). Notes of loam, violets, iron and roasted coffee as well. Tons of stuff going on here, but this needs two to four years to show its true potential. 2% Viognier in here, this spends 17 months in 10% new oak. (92 points)

2009 Baker Lane Syrah Estate Vineyard - Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

Dark ruby colored. I love the aromatics here: the tart blueberry and black cherry fruit is intertwined with cracked pepper, red sprinkle pepper, barbecue spice rub and grilled steak smells. Medium-bodied, moderate tannins and acid balance each other out nicely. The fruit is tangy but fully ripe (blackberries, blueberries, black cherries), again those elements come out on the palate and take center stage: black pepper, beef jerky, spice rub and crispy bacon. The fruit is pure Sonoma Coast goodness, but this could be mistaken for a Northern Rhone Syrah. Long finish with notes of coffee and iron. Complex, delicious, beautiful stuff. 13.6% alcohol, this is co-fermented with 4% Viognier and aged 17 months in 20% new barrels. (93 points)

2010 Baker Lane Syrah Estate Vineyard - Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

Medium-dark ruby colored. Smells of black and red currants, some tart blueberries, more violets but also some subtle pepper and spice elements. Juicy and ripe with grippy tannins and medium acid. Jammy but smooth on the fruit (blackberries, blueberries and dark currants). I really like the accents of cracked pepper, red pepper, soy glaze and bacon fat. Juicy, forward fruit but love the spicy complexity of this wine. Hints of mineral, coffee and iron as well. Plenty of time to let those complexities evolve, the wine has a lot of stuffing. 13% alcohol, this is co-fermented with 4% Viognier and aged 17 months in 20% new barrels. (92 points)

2014 Baker Lane Syrah Rosé - Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

Pale salmon/tangerine color. Lighter approach on the nose, sliced red apples and white cherries, a breezier aromatic profile with white flowers, dandelions and hints of sea salt. Bright and crisp approach on the palate, this wine is light and elegant but not short on flavor. I get McIntosh apple, wild raspberries, tangerine and watermelon fruit, but what I like best is the complex mix of crushed chalk, white pepper, sea shells and minerals. Long, bracing finish that keeps the mouth watering. Crazy value, this is a 12% alcohol Syrah from Baker Lane’s Ramondo Vineyard. (90 points)

2010 Baker Lane Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Cuvée - Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

Bright red cherries and currants on the nose, coated with dried rose petals, clove and some red licorice. Fresh and lively with moderate tannins and acid. Bursting with tangy-ripe strawberries, red and black cherries and raspberries. Interesting herbal and earthy elements (rosemary, white pepper, tobacco, rose hips) mixed with sweet cocoa powder and cola. This wine is open and outgoing but it has a lot of interesting elements to unpack. After two hours, this started exploding with complexity, roses, soil, pickling spices, hints of mushroom. Showing well right out of the bottle, but enough structure for a few more years of aging. I’d love to see what happens to those savory notes in two or three years. (90 points)

Hatton Daniels          

Kicked off in 2009, Hatton Daniels is the combined effort of winemaker Daniel Fishman and his co-owners and friends John Hatton, Daniel Caddigan and John Black. Dan Fishman interned at California Pinot boss Donum Estate, as well as Auteur and Eric Kent before taking over as Donum winemaker in 2012.

Credit: Hatton Daniels. The Roberts Road Vineyard is home to some excellent Pinot.

Describing their vision on their website, Hatton Daniels aims for wines that have “plenty of natural acidity, and this leads to wines that are a bit lighter in style, but that are full of energy, and still have plenty of depth and complexity. ” Well, that’s exactly how I’d describe their Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs — full of flavor and complexity but demonstrating an airy, almost effortless feel on the palate that makes them so refreshing to sip.

They also produce a Napa Cab and a Contra Costa County White Rhone Blend. I haven’t tasted either of these wines, but I’m willing to guess they’re solid bottles.

2012 Hatton Daniels Chardonnay Fichtenberg Vineyards - Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
Aromatically rocking, so bright and crunchy but woven in perfectly are these richer, honeyed notes, the whole thing is dashed with crushed shells and chalk. Tangy acid, this medium-plus-bodied, the lime and green apple fruit is so pure and vibrant. The wine is loaded with Sonoma Coast goodness in a complex blend of honey, minerals, chalk, hazelnut and baking spices. A beautiful wine. (93 points)

2011 Hatton Daniels Chardonnay Fichtenberg Vineyards - Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
Do you like tart, tangy, mineral-driven Chardonnay? No? Then don't bother with this wine. But I love it. So vibrant and alive, sea shells and chalk and lemon peel, lime, crushed rocks, some richer dried honey notes. Love the intense oceanic elements. Tangy acid, laser-like. Creaminess is attractive though. Lemon, lime, green apple, top it off with crushed oyster shells, chalk. Almost Muscadet like in its oceanic and acidic severity, but some really nice honey richness as well. I love it. (91 points)

2011 Hatton Daniels Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Roberts Road - Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
Light ruby color. Loving the tart red berries and spice components, more floral notes with air. Refreshing acid throughout, tart red berries abound on a frame of fine tannins. Spices and herbs mix with sweet floral and vanilla cola notes, but this is a brisk and easy-drinking Pinot that’s showing very well right now. Could hold for a bit longer, but beautiful right now. Drink this while the 2012s are sleeping. (90 points)


La Pitchoune

I first tasted wines from this Sonoma Pinot and Chardonnay producer late last year, and my interest was immediately piqued. La Pitchoune is a newcomer to the Sonoma winemaking scene, but everything I’ve tasted, from regional blends and single-vineyard bottles, has been delicious.

Co-founders Tracy Nielsen and Peter Joachim Nielsen are both transplants to Sonoma (Tracy is originally from Colorado, Peter from Sweden), but they’ve adapted quite well.

La Pitchoune (which means “little one” in French) focuses on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, sourcing grapes from a range of Sonoma County vineyards. Some are bottled as single vineyard wines: English Hill Vineyard near Sebastopol; Holder Vineyard, on a ridge above Occidental) while others are blended into the Sonoma Coast wine. The wines are made by Andrew Berge, a UC Davis grad who has Sonoma Pinot and Chardonnay experience with Spell and Hunter Wine Cellars.

I’m really looking forward to seeing what this producer does in the coming vintages. 

Credit: La Pitchoune.

2014 La Pitchoune Pinot Noir Vin Gris - Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
Medium salmon colored. So vibrant and fresh on the nose, with wild strawberries, white cherries and watermelon, mixed in with sea salt, crushed shells and a hint of white pepper. Crisp, clean, racy but attractive in its creaminess as well. I love the watermelon and tangy white cherries, and I get notes of honeysuckle, chalk, sea salt and rosewater. Delicious stuff right here, so vibrant and begging for shellfish and salads. (90 points)

2013 La Pitchoune Pinot Noir English Hill Vineyard - Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
Deep ruby color. Aromas of ripe, juicy black cherries, raspberries, tart strawberries, also some notes of pine sap, tobacco, white pepper, a spicy-herbal kick. Bright approach on the palate with tart raspberries, cherries and red plums, dusty tannins, plenty of structure, a bright acidic backbone that keeps the wine lively and tart. Notes of bay leaf, tobacco, white pepper, mixed in with richer elements of chocolate-covered cherries and cola. Deep underlying sense of earth and minerals. A beauty of a Pinot Noir that should improve for the next three to five years. Aged 11 months in 25% new French oak. (93 points)

2013 La Pitchoune Pinot Noir Holder Vineyard - Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Medium ruby colored. Aromas of jammy raspberries, tart summer plums and red currants, along with some earth and rosemary elements. Medium+ bodied, a velvety appeal with moderate acid, the balance is quite a thing. Tart plums mix with wild raspberries and richer strawberry jam flavors, and I get secondary notes of pine sap, green coffee, black tea. Velvety, smooth but stylish, rounded out with some earthy and saucy aspects that will surely evolve with time. 13.8% alcohol, aged 11 months in 25% new French oak. (92 points)

2012 La Pitchoune Pinot Noir - Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
Tart cranberries and cherries on the nose but so many floral, spice and complex aromatic nuance as well. Bright and red fruit-driven on a frame of dusty tannins and some refreshing acid. Lots of spice, earth, rose petal and coffee integrated together so smoothly. A bold and full-bodied wine at 14%+ but maintains freshness and elegance as well. Opening up beautifully, drinking fine now but I’d like to revisit again in 2016. (91 points)

Celebrating California Syrah

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

The Rhone Rangers are here in the District for a big shindig this week, and I can’t wait. The grand tasting offers up a chance to taste some 80 Rhone-inspired wines from 20-plus producers. To get the celebration started early, this week we’re looking at a bunch of California Syrahs. 

I was very impressed with this whole lot (which includes wines from the 2009-2012 vintages). For my palate, the earthy, pepper, spicy Syrahs from Baker Lane took the cake, but I thoroughly enjoyed sipping all of these. 

The wines were received as trade samples and tasted single blind. 
 
2011 Tolosa Winery Syrah Estate - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
SRP: $32
Bright purple colored. Smooth and focused aromas, blackberries and black cherries, fresh roses and violets, just the right amount of pepper and black olive. Fine but firm tannins, and the acid adds a whole lot of freshness to this wine. Mouthfilling but somehow sleek and easy to drink at the same time. I absolutely love the black olive and barbecue sauce notes, which match well with the blackberry and wild cherry fruit. Bright fruit but good amounts of earth, olive and bacon. (88 points)

2011 Tolosa Winery Syrah 1772 Edna Ranch - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
SRP: $60
Medium purple color. Nose shows darker fruit (black cherries, dark currants, some red currant as well), laced with notes of cedar, cola and vanilla. Dusty tannins of medium strength, medium acid, a full mouthfeel. The fruit is rich and juicy (black cherries and currants, some red cherries), some cedar elements, along with complex notes of cocoa powder, anise, black pepper sauce, some root beer lingers onto the finish. A bold style, but shows restraint and freshness as well. Seems like it could use a year or two to unwind. (89 points)

2012 Wrath Syrah San Saba Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $39
Medium purple color. Bold and plummy on the nose, some blackberries and black cherries mixed in, backed up by wet soil, tobacco leaf, black pepper and some coconut and root beer. Fleshy and forward on the palate, moderate tannins with a dusty feel, some medium-low acid. Flavors of black cherries, dark currants and juicy blackberries, the fruit is rich but shows a tart, crunchy appeal. Notes of loam, pepper, rainy day and tobacco mix with richer notes of toasted coconut, sweet teriyaki glaze and cedar shavings. Long, full, yet not overpowering. Could open up a lot over the next three or four years, or give it a good, long decant to coax out the nuances. All Syrah, 50% new French oak. (91 points)

2012 Clayhouse Vineyard Syrah - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $14
Deep ruby colored. Aromas of red cherries and black cherries, raspberries, mixed in with cola, root beer, violets and smoke. Bright on the palate with fine tannins and an easy-drinking approach. Red cherries and juicy blackberries, ripe and jammy but not overblown. I get other complex notes of cola and sweet plum cake mixing with elements of black olive, tobacco and tropical forest notes. Impressive value, ready to drink now. 86% Syrah, 12% Petite Sirah and 2% Viognier. (87 points)

2012 Clayhouse Syrah Estate Red Cedar Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $35
Deep ruby colored. Bold nose of blackberry jam, blueberry, dark plums, scorched earth, intense with incense sticks and smoke. Bold and chewy on the palate with medium-firm tannins, medium-low acid. The plum and black cherry fruit tastes juicy and fresh but shows a slightly roasted aspect. Vanilla and cola mix together with blueberry jam and mocha, slight tones of olive and iron linger long on the creamy finish. A big, plush wine that could probably use two years to settle down, or a long decant and a steak. 92% Syrah, 6% Petite Sirah and 2% Viognier. (88 points)

2012 KITÁ Syrah Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $60
Light purple color. Vibrant and bold on the nose. I get black cherries, currant jam, menthol, sweet cedar, violets, black pepper. Rich texture, medium-low acid, fleshy but quite firm tannins. Black currants, black cherries, some plum fruit, mixed together with menthol, eucalyptus, cedar, cherry cola, roasted coffee, black pepper. Chewy and long on the finish. Delicious, no doubt, but quite bold, perhaps it could use some time. Rich but the wine maintains this element of mystique that I find really attractive. All Syrah, aged 18 months in 30% new French oak. (90 points)

Northern Rhone spice and pepper meets Sonoma Coast juicy fruit, the result is delicious

2009 Baker Lane Syrah Estate Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $45
Dark ruby colored. I love the aromatics here: the tart blueberry and black cherry fruit is intertwined with cracked pepper, red sprinkle pepper, barbecue spice rub and grilled steak smells. Medium-bodied, moderate tannins and acid balance each other out nicely. The fruit is tangy but fully ripe (blackberries, blueberries, black cherries), again those elements come out on the palate and take center stage: black pepper, beef jerky, spice rub and crispy bacon. The fruit is pure Sonoma Coast goodness, but this could be mistaken for a Northern Rhone Syrah. Long finish with notes of coffee and iron. Complex, delicious, beautiful stuff. 13.6% alcohol, this is co-fermented with 4% Viognier and aged 17 months in 20% new barrels. (93 points) 

 2010 Baker Lane Syrah Estate Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $45
Medium-dark ruby colored. Smells of black and red currants, some tart blueberries, more violets but also some subtle pepper and spice elements. Juicy and ripe with grippy tannins and medium acid. Jammy but smooth on the fruit (blackberries, blueberries and dark currants). I really like the accents of cracked pepper, red pepper, soy glaze and bacon fat. Juicy, forward fruit but love the spicy complexity of this wine. Hints of mineral, coffee and iron as well. Plenty of time to let those complexities evolve, the wine has a lot of stuffing. 13% alcohol, this is co-fermented with 4% Viognier and aged 17 months in 20% new barrels. (92 points)

2012 Baker Lane Syrah Sonoma Coast Cuvée - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $30
Dark ruby. Lush and exotic on the nose, the blackberry and dark plum fruit mixes with violets, rose potpourri, bay leaf, cracked pepper and roasted coffee. Firm tannins, moderate acid, the wine is big but balanced and could be elegant with time in the cellar. Tart blueberries, black cherries and blackberries, the fruit is dusted with all sorts of spices (black pepper, dried red pepper, oregano, soy sauce). Notes of loam, violets, iron and roasted coffee as well. Tons of stuff going on here, but this needs two to four years to show its true potential. 2% Viognier in here, this spends 17 months in 10% new oak. (92 points)

Two 2007 Sonoma Valley Reds

I like experimenting with aging California reds, even those that may generally be consumed within a few years of the vintage. Sometimes, this pays off, and the wines are gorgeous. Sometimes, like a recent tasting of two 2007 reds from Sonoma Valley, the results are more mixed. 

2007 was marked by small yields and small berry size, a product of a mild growing season, which Gundlach Bundschu winemaker Jeff Bundschu said was welcome after a very dry winter.

Both wines had fresh acid and restrained fruit, although the Gun Bun Merlot’s fruit had waned further. Surprisingly, the Merlot’s tannins were stronger than the Syrah’s. 

2007 Eric K. James Syrah Moon Ridge Vineyard
California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
Medium ruby colored. Red and black cherries, some blackberries mixed in, laced through with notes of smoke, black olive and campfire soot. Full-bodied but the tannins have smoothed out, and the moderate acid makes it easy to drink. I like the black cherry and blackberry fruit, tangy but bright, and the elements of black olive brine, bacon fat and campfire smoke. Kalamata olives and roasted red peppers come out with time. Not incredibly deep or profound, but it does what it does very well. Lots of interesting flavors. (87 points)

2007 Gundlach Bundschu Merlot Estate Vineyard
California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
A bit flat on the nose, takes a lot of swirling to coax out the blackberry cobbler and currant jam aromas, some underlying woodsy notes of leaves, loam and moss, but very subtle. Tart and a bit bracing on the palate, the tannins and dusty but still holding down the structure. The fruit tastes a bit tired though, like currants left out in the sun, and the fruit falls flat when compared to the toast and tannic structure. Some smoky, charcoal notes, wood, moss and soil, mushrooms come out with time, but the fruit stays quiet. I usually really enjoy Gun Bun Merlots, but too bad the fruit seems tuckered out on this one, because the rest is still going. Opens up on day two, the wine calms down with time though, the tannins soften and even though the fruit is still lacking, the wine becomes more balanced. (85 points)

Wine Reivews: California Rhone Reds

This post first appeared on the award-winning daily wine blog Terroirist.

I never get tired of California interpretation of Rhone wines. Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and blends with other lesser-known grapes, these wines have always intrigued me. And when it comes to California Rhone wines, the diversity of styles and blends has never been better. This report features a few deep and complex Syrahs as well as a handful of ever-quirky wines from Randall Graham.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2009 Aril Syrah Estate - California, Napa Valley, Atlas Peak
SRP: $45
Bright ruby colored. On the nose, juicy red currants, black cherries, along with lavender, cola, dark chocolate and bourbon cask notes. On the palate, this is full of fruit and structure with medium tannins, shot through with solid acid. Red currants, cherries, plums, accented by cocoa powder, sweet spices, barbecue sauce, vanilla and caramel. Full, complex, gorgeous, lots of life ahead. Bold but juicy, with a long finish of coconut, grilled herbs and fig cookies. Aged 16 months in 20% new French oak. (92 points)

2010 Kieran Robinson Syrah Le Voyageur - California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley
SRP: $43
Dark ruby-purple color. Aromas are deep and dark, with blackberries, plum, roasted coffee, loamy soil, paved road and black olive. Firm but silky tannic structure, fresh acid, rich and tangy fruit (blackberry, black cherry, cassis). Lots of black olive, loam, campfire soot and roasted coffee flavors. Hints of BBQ sauce come out with time. Bold, but elegant and lovely, with an incredibly long finish. This beauty needs time or a really good decant. 12.9% alcohol. (92 points)

2012 Niner Wine Estates Syrah - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $30
Vibrant purple color. Blueberry pie, juicy blackberries, some underlying espresso and violets on the nose. Juicy and chewy on the palate, with a good balance between fine but solid tannins and some medium acid. Jammy blackberries and plums, juicy and full of fruit, but I also get some elements of teriyaki jerky, rhubarb and tilled soil. Bold but has a silky presence and a long finish with notes of flowers and black tea. Concentrated, perhaps a bit of time will help this open up, but it’s quite delicious right now. Aged for 18 months in 70% French, 20% Hungarian and 10% American oak. (89 points)

2012 Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $20
Clear cherry color. Smells of dark cherries, spicy herbs (oregano, pepper), a bit of jammy fruit but lots of earth and savory tones as well. Silky but rich on the palate with medium acid and fine tannins, combining to form a lip-smacking, chewy texture. Flavors of tart red cherries and juicy blackberries mixed with pipe tobacco, earth and soy notes. Could age in the near term, but this seems ready to go now. A blend of 53% Syrah, 27% Grenache, 18% Mourvedre and 2% Counoise. (89 points)

2012 Bonny Doon Vineyard Contra - California
SRP: $13
A pretty rose-violet color. Fresh cherries and raspberries on the nose, along with lots of roses, potpourri, vermouth spices, some savory tones. Full, fine tannins, fresh acid, such delicious flavors. Red and sour cherries, raspberries, tangy and tart, but packed with sage, black pepper, anise and menthol. Long, pretty, complex. 56% Carignan, 17% Syrah, 15% Grenache, 11% Mourvedre and 1% Cinsault. A screaming value. (89 points)

2009 Bonny Doon Vineyard Le Cigare Volant en bonbonne Reserve - California
SRP: $79
A kind of purple-cranberry color in the glass. Black cherries, cranberries on the nose, some complex spice tones, with black pepper, dried herbs, some earthy-mushroom accents. Very pretty on the nose. The palate is great: gritty tannins, crisp acid and tons of flavor. The fruit is dark and crunchy, like the skins of black cherries and plums, and I get all of these pepper, earth, menthol and pickle notes, maybe even some braised meat. Old world accents, but it’s got the grit of a California Rhone blend. I knew this batch of reds was from California, but this would be a great ringer in a Chateauneuf tasting. Impressed with this blend of 30% Syrah, 28% Grenache, 22% Mourvedre and 20% Cinsault. (92 points)

2009 Bonny Doon Vineyard Le Cigare Volant - California
SRP: $45
Medium purple color. Interesting nose of black cherries, cranberry sauce, pepper, sweet herbs and a mushroom and soy note. Fleshy but firm tannins, tangy acid, quite balanced and pretty. The black cherry and tangy plum fruit shows a tart, fresh but bold approach at the same time. I love the soil, pickle, meat and pepper notes, which add all sorts of complexity. Lots of interwoven flavors, but it could use some time to unwind. Just a step down in complexity from the en bonbonne reserve, but this is a beautiful wine. 36% Syrah, 25% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre and 19% Cinsault. (91 points)
                                       
2013 Bonny Doon Vineyard Grenache Clos de Gilroy - California, Central Coast
SRP: $20
Smells like purple Kool-Aid packets, Twizzlers, vanilla cola and rose petals. Light tannins, soft acid, a fresh and juicy mouthfeel that’s reminiscent of Beaujolais. Flavors of strawberry jam and cranberry sauce, and I get some pepper, rhubarb and green olive notes as well. A juicy, fun, fruit-packed blend of 75% Grenache, 17% Syrah and 8% Mourvedre. (87 points)

2012 Bonny Doon Vineyard Grenache Cuvée R Rancho Solo - California, Central Coast, Monterey County
SRP: $48
Light purple color. Black and white pepper, rose potpourri and earthy aromas on top of tangy red fruit. On the palate, medium tannic structure, moderate acid, the red and black berry fruit tastes bold and sweet but also crunchy. This wine shows lots of earth, wet leaves and herbal undertones that make it really interesting to analyze, but it’s as straight-up drinkable and enjoyable as it is intriguing. Very impressive, seems good now but could do well with some near-term cellaring. (90 points)

Enjoying the Wines of Two Shepherds (Again)

Restrained California Rhone wines. More and more frequently, they are popping up and gaining attention. One of my favorite examples is Sonoma-based Two Shepherds, which focuses on cooler climate sites, lower alcohol and minimalist winemaking. The one-man army behind this outfit, William Allen, crafts a range of white and red wines from Rhone grapes that aim for elegance and subtletly over bombast.

I enjoyed sipping Two Shepherds wines during an online event earlier this year and at a Rhone Rangers tasting in Washington, DC this summer. So I was excited when I learned William would be visiting my favorite wine shop in the nation’s capital, Weygandt Wines. Weygandt, which focuses mainly on old world producers, picked up Two Shepherds a few months ago and now sells some of William’s wines. 

Most of them come from the Russian River Valley, where Rhone varieties are less common than the staples Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. But Two Shepherds has also released a 100% Cinsault from Lodi, a delicious anomaly from 130-year-old vines, and William dabbles in fruit from Santa Ynez and El Dorado. 

Some notes from the wines I tasted...

2013 Two Shepherds Viognier Saralee’s Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

$28

So bright and clean on the nose. Fresh and lively palate with beautiful acid and lots of stony minerality. Elegant, long finish. Another great showing from this wine. 33 cases made. (91 points)

2012 Two Shepherds Pastoral Blanc Saralee’s Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
$28

Bursts with peaches, flowers, minerals, some chalky saline elements. Palate is clean and salty with apricot, orange peel and white tea. Very pleasant and fresh and inviting, as always. William’s largest production white, which means a whopping 105 cases. 50% Roussanne, 35% Marsanne, 10% Viognier and 5% Grenache Blanc.  (90 points)

2013 Two Shepherds Cinsault Ancient Vines Bechthold Vineyard - California, Central Valley, Lodi
$34

Nose is bright and peppery, with roses, minerals, a light yet deep and complicated blend of smells. Silky soft on the palate with fine tannins. White cherries and strawberries, mixed with roses. Complex yet crisp, a real treat with lots of depth and gravel, rocky notes. This wine is something else. Morgon meets Northern Rhone meets Lodi rose? I don’t know what to compare this wine to, but I love it. 100% whole cluster fermented from what William said is believed to be the oldest Cinsault vines anywhere. Glad I was able to snag a bottle for the cellar. 35 cases made. (92 points)

2012 Two Shepherds Syrah | Mourvedre - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
$38

Bright cherries and plums, a hint of blueberry on the nose along with bright flowers and a hint of green olive. So bright and clean on the palate, a tangy wine but medium tannin for support. I love the combination of red fruit with these pepper, mineral and graphite notes. 50 cases made. 12.3% alcohol. (90 points)

2012 Two Shepherds Syrah Saralee’s Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
$38

Vibrant aromatics of bright cherries and blueberries, along with some floral and earthy tones. Tangy, bright and fresh on the palate, but fine tannins, combining for a smooth mouthfeel. Love the red roses, pepper and mineral elements to this wine. Complex, elegant, another stunning wine from Two Shepherds. (91 points)

Some of these wines are available at Weygandt’s shop in DC’s Cleveland Park neighborhood. Otherwise, check out www.TwoShepherds.com for more information on how to get your hands on some. 
 
If you’re a fan of California Rhones, stay tuned to the Rhone Rangers’ event page. I’ve heard the Rhone Rangers are headed back to DC’s Longview Gallery for another tasting in mid-2015.