Hourglass' New Releases are Unsurprisingly Awesome

Hourglass' 2014 Blueline Vineyard Malbec & Merlot are killing it.

I’ve been raving about Hourglass wines for a few years now, and this Napa producer’s new releases have kept up with my high expectations.

Hourglass reds are sourced from two vineyards, the Hourglass Estate and Blueline Estate. Proprietor Jeff Smith’s family brought him to St. Helena in the mid-60s, when he was a baby. In the mid-1970s, the family bought a piece of property north of town, and planted it to Zinfandel, which was sourced for Caymus. Phylloxera obliterated the vineyard in 1990. The Dean of Viticulture at UC Davis, Dr. Mark Kleiwer, told Jeff this site (which would come to be known as the Hourglass Estate) was prime for Cabernet Sauvignon. Hourglass pressed its first Cab in 1997.

Hourglass acquired the Blueline Vineyard in 2006, and the vineyard team replanted many of the blocks in 2007. The 22-acre vineyard (south of the town of Calistoga) is planted to all five Bordeaux varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and Malbec. 

Winemaker Tony Biagi has an impressive resume (Duckhorn, PlumpJack, Cade), and he and Jeff have hit a serious stride with three solid vintages in a row (2012, 2013, 2014).

“It really was a convergence of two people with two like minds,” Tony said of his partnership with Jeff during a recent online video discussion. “I wanted to work for a singular owner who had a vision. I wanted to work for someone who had their own vineyards, their own winery, and, you know, craft wines that we both wanted to drink every day.”

Jeff lauded the recent vintages of 2012-2014 as “three amazing vintages, back to back to back.” Having tasted the wines from all three vintages, I have to admit, he speaks truth.

Below are my notes on the four new Hourglass releases I tasted.

2015 Hourglass Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $40
Pale straw color. Generous aromatic display of tropical fruits (guava, mango) with brighter elements of lime and nectarine, and a heaping of flowers and minerals to boot. Creamy texture, this wine has a bold presence on the palate but the acidity keeps it so vibrant. I love the mix of richer fruits (orange marmalade, guava, pineapple) with these brisk elements of lime and orange zest, white flowers and clover. There’s also this interesting contrast between oyster shells and chalk with honey and raw almond. Exquisite Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc. Sourced from Larkmead Lane vineyard (close to Blueline) and Varozza in St. Helena. Fermented 50% in stainless steel, 25% in used oak and 25% in new French oak barrels. No maloactic fermentation. (92 points)

2014 Hourglass Merlot Blueline - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $75
Gorgeous aromatics here: rich currant, plums, brighter elements of raspberry and blueberry, and a host of complex non-fruit elements (smoke, clay soil, tobacco, barbecue sauce, roses) this wine really pops and opens with air. Big and bold but wonderfully structured with grippy, dusty tannins. Moderate acidity keeps this wine vibrant. A mix of dark (blackberry, cassis) and red (raspberry jam, plums) fruit, which is rich, moderately extracted but still tastes bright. Sweet flavors of coffee, clove and vanilla mix with savory elements of scorched earth, soy and mushroom. So complex but so easy to sip. This has its best years ahead for sure. 81% Merlot, 9% Cab, 5% Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot. 18 months in 66% new French oak. 15.2% alcohol. (94 points)

2014 Hourglass Malbec Blueline - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $75
Smoky and dark on the nose, dark plums, black currant and blueberry blend with loamy soil, charcoal and campfire, but there are some brighter floral elements that lift the wine up and keep it vibrant. Bold and chewy on the palate, the tannins are structured and quite grippy, but the medium acidity keeps the wine from being heavy. The black cherry, currant and blueberry fruit is tart and crunchy despite its fully ripe and juicy character. Notes of violets, scorched earth, cedar, vanilla. Rich and full but long and seamless. What I love about this wine (and all Blueline wines, for that matter) is the combination of density with freshness. This wine is never heavy, despite its massive concentration of flavors. Stays elegant (despite its youth), which is quite a thing. Includes 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine spends 18 months in 40% new French oak. 14.2% alcohol. (93 points)

2013 Hourglass HG III - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $50
Deep violet color. It smells of rich black cherries, red and black currants, blueberries, the fruit is dark but bright at the same time, and I also get complex elements of dark chocolate, violets, loamy soil, cedar and ginger. This is full-bodied and rich but the acidity is superb and precise, holding this wine together against the firm tannins and bold texture. Flavors of black cherries, dark currants, plum skins, the fruit is fleshy but maintains a tart edge. A host of non-fruit flavors glide across the palate: loamy soil, charcoal, tobacco, cedar, vanilla, dark chocolate, roasted chestnut, vanilla – the flavors unwind with time in the glass (which this needs, or cellar time). For a “second” wine, are you kidding me? This is superb. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah 20 months in new and seasoned French oak. (92 points)

Hourglass Napa Reds Shine in Special 2013 Vintage

Hourglass winemaker Tony Biagi says 2013 is the best vintage he’s seen in Napa since he started in 1993.

“This is truly a special, one of a kind vintage,” he said. “Tannin and color levels were high and at proper proportions, leading to wines with great structural integrity. The cool nights also preserved acidity and fruit freshness, despite deep extraction of rich flavors. It’s sort of a best of both worlds scenario.” 

“Suffice it to say we believe this to be one of the greatest vintages we have witness in our 17 years making Hourglass wines,” says Proprietor Jeff Smith.

You get the idea. They’re stoked about 2013. 

And, after tasting three of their wines from this vintage, so am I. (Here’s a one-page statistical summary of 2013 from the Napa Valley Vintners.)

Earlier this month, I took part in a virtual tasting and chat with Jeff and Tony, and had a great time discussing the wines and the vintage. I really respect the Hourglass team for taking time to discuss wine on social media, given that their wines have something of a cult status, high price points, and lots of credit from big-time critics. (For full background on this producer, the history and the vineyards, check out this longer post from a tasting of the 2010 vintage.) I've been thrilled about these wines since that tasting, but the 2013s are the best I’ve tasted yet from this consistently stunning producer.

Below are my notes on the three wines tasted. 

2013 Hourglass HG III - California, Napa Valley

SRP $50

Gorgeous violet color. Nose of bright black cherries, black currants, some jammy raspberry notes as well, a complex combination of violets, cocoa powder, dark chocolate shavings, vanilla but also some earthy and tobacco notes. Needs a lot of air to fully express itself, but a lot of nuance in here that will evolve and gain traction over time. Full-bodied with structured tannins that maintain some velvety feel, the acid is moderate enough to keep this friendly and relatively fresh on the palate. Juicy black cherries, black currants mix with notes of raspberry jam. A ton of forward, rich elements of cocoa, ginger snap, vanilla, coffee but I also get tobacco, graphite, loamy soil, pepper and roasted chestnut. Complex and age-worthy but surprisingly accessible young. Just a beautiful wine. $50 ain’t cheap but this over-delivers for that price point. Merlot, Cabernet, Malbec and Petite Sirah. (92 points)

2013 Hourglass Cabernet Sauvignon Blueline - California, Napa Valley

SRP $125

Dark purple color. Wow, aromatically, this is stunning. Chilled black and blue berries, the fruit gushes but smells fresh and vibrant as well, matched with complex notes of sweet cola, coffee, graphite, pencil shavings, sweet pipe tobacco, paved road. So complex, you can sniff this and pull out nuances all night long. Full-boded, velvety-silky tannins provide a gorgeous mouthfeel when combined with the vibrant acid. The black cherry, blueberry, fleshy currant fruit, it glides over the palate with precision. Complex non-fruit elements of crushed rocks, iron, pencil shavings and loamy soil, lovely vanilla, coffee and cedar woven in well. Bold and slugging but punches with elegance and precision. Wow. I’d love to retaste this in another three to five years. Includes 9% Petit Verdot and 6% Malbec, aged 21 months in new French oak. The best wine I've tasted from Hourglass. (95 points)

2013 Hourglass Cabernet Sauvignon Estate - California, Napa Valley

SRP $165

Dark and saucy purple color. Deeper and more concentrated aromatics than the Blueline. Still a ton of stuff going on: blackberry compote, tart blueberries, tangy black cherries, mixed in with sweet vanilla, espresso, violets, cigar box and rich loam. Concentrated and compact with firm tannic structure, a bit hotter than the Blueline and a bit less fresh, this is a burlier puncher with some serious power. Gorgeous fruit though: chewy blueberries and blackberries, rich black cherries. Tons of cola, violets, vanilla, cedar shavings, milk and dark chocolate and baked brownie notes, but also an intriguing sense of rocks, soil and minerality. Really needs time to open up or a really long decant, but a gorgeous wine. If you like a bit more elegance, the 2013 Blueline provides it. If you like a more full-throttle style, this is it. 100% Cabernet from the 4-acre Estate Vineyard, aged 22 months in new French oak. (93 points)

In 2012, Hourglass Cabernets are Kicking

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Napa producer Hourglass has been turning out some exciting Bordeaux reds for years now, but in 2012 they really nailed it.

I recently tasted through Hourglass’ 2012 Cabernets during a group video chat with Jeff Smith and winemaker Tony Biagi. 2012 was Tony’s first full vintage for Hourglass, although he finished up the 2010s and 2011s after taking over from renowned winemaker Bob Foley. Tony arrived at a great time, as 2012 provided a consistent growing season and resulted in wines that show balance and depth. Biagi and Jeff Smith compare 2012’s tempered growing season to the much heralded 2001 vintage.

Hourglass reds are sourced from two vineyards, the Estate and Blueline. In the late 60s, Jeff’s father bought what would become the Estate vineyard, a six-acre site two miles north of St. Helena. A big fan of Zinfandel, he began growing his own, a lot of which went into Caymus’ wines. After his father passed away, Jeff replanted to this vineyard to Cabernet in the early 90s, and Hourglass pressed its first Cab in 1997. The project got off to a great start, as the wine garnered critical acclaim and Hourglass shoved its way into the crowded lineup of premium Napa Cabernets.

Hourglass acquired the Blueline Vineyard in 2006, and the vineyard team replanted many of the blocks in 2007. The 22-acre vineyard (south of the town of Calistoga) is planted to all five Bordeaux varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and Malbec. (The Blueline Cab Franc, Merlot and Malbec from 2012 are also very well done.)

Jeff said he aims for “structural integration” in his reds. “The Holy Grail of Napa Cabernet,” he said, is harnessing that ripe fruit without giving up freshness, acidity and minerality. He wants ripe fruit without the wines “losing their tensional edge.” These 2012s have plenty of tension, not to mention fruit and staying power. I found all of these wines to be much more expressive on day two.

2012 Hourglass HG III - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $50 

Nose of blackberry and black currant, a hint of red berries mixed in, rich but nuanced with notes of graphite, coffee beans, loam and tobacco leaf, underlying sweet cocoa and vanilla.  On the palate, the acid invites you in, the tannins provide structure and depth while the fruit is bright and juicy. Red and black cherries and currants, laced with cola, cedar and pencil shavings. Notes of loam, chestnut and cocoa powder. Lasting, cellar-worthy but approachable.  The inaugural vintage of this Merlot, Cabernet and Malbec blend. Essentially a second wine, Tony said the varietal make-up blend is going change every year. (90 points)

2012 Hourglass Cabernet Sauvignon Blueline - California, Napa Valley

SRP $125

Complex nose of cool blackberry and red and black currants and plums, the core of fruit is so seductive and vibrant. Notes of vanilla coffee, sweet cocoa powder, crushed granite and pencil shavings along with some floral elements that need time to come out. Juicy currants offering depth and power, yet the acid offers refreshment. Chewy tannins, so delicious and inviting but clearly lasting. I love the accents of pencil shavings, chewing tobacco and graphite, black cherry and vanilla colas. Deeply mineral-driven, with floral accents, anise, sweet lavender and hints of black olive. 91% Cabernet and 9% Petite Verdot aged 21 months in new French oak. In the past, the wine was 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, but Petite Verdot is playing a larger role. It’s pure Napa with its depth and smoothness, but the tanginess is really attractive. Decant for a long time or bury for three to six years, will hold for much longer. (93 points)

2012 Hourglass Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley

SRP $165

Nose shows a deep core of black and red currants and plums, some fruit skins and jam as well. Granite, cocoa powder, milk chocolate, some sweet oregano, green olive and pipe tobacco, so complex and lovely stuff on the nose and it opens up a ton with air. Deep and complex with fine-grained but sturdy tannins and medium+ acid. Flavors of black cherries and black currants with notes of red fruits mixed in, it’s zesty and juicy but showing lots of depth. More graphite and pencil shavings here, along with granite and river rocks. I also get some dark roast coffee, cedar, hints of dark chocolate and root beer. Deep, complex but finishes clean and long. All Cabernet aged 22 months in new French oak. Takes a while to fully express itself, so decant now or cellar for a handful of years. (94 points)

Hourglass: Napa Producer Excels With Malbec, Merlot, Cab Franc

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

At Hourglass, premium Napa Valley red is more than just Cabernet Sauvignon. Their Cabernets deserve serious credit, but Hourglass has been working on some great varietal expressions of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec from the Blueline Vineyard in Calistoga.

2012 was the first full vintage for Hourglass’ winemaker Tony Biagi, who took over from renowned winemaker Bob Foley. It appears Tony arrived at a great time because 2012 was a good growing season, and the resulting wines show balance and depth. The 2013 vintage marks Hourglass’ first white wine, a Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc, which I found refreshing and intriguing.

The new oak in these wines is nuanced and integrated, adding creaminess to the texture and accents to the fruit and earth flavors. But given the complexity of flavors, the structure and the balance, the oak never overpowers, at least for my palate.

These wines aren’t cheap, but they’re delicious and cellar-worthy. All of the wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted from 375ml bottles. The prices below represent the mailing list allocation cost for a 750ml bottle.

2013 Hourglass Sauvignon Blanc 

$40
A pale straw color. Crisp apple and lime aromas, orange blossom, honeysuckle, a striking amount of slate and minerals. Creamy and rich on the palate, but the acid cuts through with impressive power. Richer notes of apricot, honey and orange marmalade blend with elements of oyster shell, sea salt and minerals. Lots of concentration and depth here, this is a beauty of a Napa Sauv Blanc that refuses to fit in a stylistic box. Hourglass’ first shot with white wine, and they nailed it. This wine sees stainless steel as well as some new and old French oak. (91 points)

2012 Hourglass Malbec Blueline

$75
Generous purple color. Vibrant and playful aromas of deep plums and black currants laced with violets, cola and charcoal. On the palate, fine grained but grippy tannins meet with medium acid, almost crisp. Rich and boisterous, full of bright floral tones, this wine is plummy and packed with tart berries. There’s an underlying mix of cocoa powder, charcoal, vanilla bean, cola and black olive. Bold but elegant, this is impressive stuff that shows some solid aging potential. Aged 16 months in 40% new French oak, this wine also includes 25% Petite Verdot. (91 points)

2012 Hourglass Merlot Blueline

$75
Nose of roses, raspberries, caramel, roses, a lot of explosive ripe fruit but it’s backed up by earth and smoke, menthol and smoked meat. Full bodied but this wine shows an elegant texture with fine tannins and medium acid. I get berry compote, raspberries and dark plums; all the fruit is juicy but very tangy. Significant amount of mushroom, balsamic, soy, barbecue sauce and sweet floral elements. Chewy, elegant, rich, complex, this wine is all of these, with a long finish. Could use two to four years and I think this will develop for quite a while longer. Includes 5% Petite Verdot, this wine is aged 16 months in new and seasoned French oak. (93 points)

2012 Hourglass Cabernet Franc Blueline

$135
Deep and saucy on the nose, I get blueberry, blackberry and plums, but also lots of deep loam, granite, paved road and mushroom. On the palate, wow, this is just beautiful — medium acid, great concentration, dusty tannins. Full of tart blueberry and currant fruit, like crunching through the skins, but then the earth, charcoal, cedar and eucalyptus notes come in. The mushroom, granite and tobacco flavors need time to fully show themselves. Great structure here for aging. This sees 20 months in 40% new French oak. Gorgeous. (93 points)

Hourglass: Napa Valley Cult Winery Gains a New Convert… Me

Jeff Smith is pure Napa Valley. He’s a husky, happy-sized guy with a big smile, wavy hair and a generously salted beard. He wears worn blue jeans and boots and slouches back on the couch cushions like a man whose been working outside all day.

Jeff is the owner of Hourglass, whose Napa Valley reds have a cult-like following and an impressive presence on high-end restaurant lists. In mid-January, Jeff, along with the new Hourglass winemaker Tony Biagi, took some time to sit down in front of a webcam and host a live on-line tasting of four Hourglass reds. 

They recorded the tasting in what looked like a hipster loft, complete with white paint peeling off the walls to expose the cement slabs underneath. Behind the couch hung a painting of a woman with a huge bee-hive hairdo, which another taster described as looking “like some sort of postmodern Marge Simpson.”

Before uncorking the first wine, Jeff gave a not-so-brief overview of how Hourglass came to be. The Hourglass Vineyard, which sits two miles north of the famous town St. Helena, was planted to four acres of Cabernet Sauvignon in 1992. Hourglass’ debut was a 1997 cabernet from this Estate Vineyard. The wine was included in a tasting around the time of the 2001 Napa Valley Wine Auction, where it fared well against cult Napa cabs like Screaming Eagle and Harlan Estate. A new star was born, literally overnight. (Click here for a detailed history of Hourglass.)

Hourglass acquired the Blueline Vineyard in 2006. The 22-acre vineyard is planted to the classic Bordeaux varieties of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petite verdot and malbec. The vineyard is located in a warmer corner of Napa two miles south of the small town of Calistoga, and consists of alluvial gravel, sand and loam soils.

As Jeff tells the story of Hourglass, Tony stays quiet, that is, until the discussion turns to clonal selection. Tony’s eyes light up as he explains the intricacies and temperament of cabernet sauvignon clone 338, (and at least a few more clones whose numbers I didn’t catch). As they riff with each other, their chemistry and love for wine is obvious. While explaining Hourglass’ unique soils and climate, they use the words “fractured bedrock” and “thermal dynamic” at least two dozen times. Their excitement is understandable considering the uniqueness of their vineyards and the beautiful reds wine they produce.

Along with my friends from the wine blog Terroirist, I tasted the 2010 Hourglass line-up from half-bottles. All of the wines were made by renowned Napa winemaker Bob Foley, who’s been crafting quality Napa wine since 1977. (Foley has moved on to other projects while Tony Biagi has since picked up the winemaking reigns.)

Okay, I’ve introduced the wines enough. Here are my notes…

2010 Hourglass Merlot Blueline - California, Napa Valley
On the nose, this merlot shows seriously focused and deep aromas, waves of red berries and plums, dark roasted coffee along with some lavender. On the palate, this wine is incredibly silky and pure. Shows grippy tannic structure, but it’s balanced with rich cassis and blackberry fruit. Notes of vanilla bean and hazelnut add complexity. In spite of its boldness, this merlot maintains elegance and even some tanginess from the acid, which is quite a feat considering the massive 16.5% alcohol! The complexity and purity of this wine put it in an entirely different category. There are California merlots I’ve tasted, and there is this particular Napa merlot. It has to be one of the best New World merlots I’ve tasted in a very long time… at least two years… no joke. This merlot contains 17% cabernet sauvignon and the wine is aged 19 months in a blend of 40% new and seasoned French oak.

(92 points) $75  

“Merlots should have acid,” Biagi said as he took a sip of this wine. “They should have structure.” Well, the 2010 Blueline merlot is everything Biagi says it should be.

2010 Hourglass Cabernet Franc Blueline - California, Napa Valley
I’m always a bit skeptical of Napa Valley cabernet franc, but Hourglass has made a truly awesome one from their Blueline Vineyard. Aromas of graphite, dried hay and savory herbs accent the rich blackberry and black plum fruit. The first thing I notice on the palate is the tangy acid, which is backed up by silky tannins. Tobacco and tar mix with sage and black pepper. Blueberry fruit meets toasted oak. Very elegant for a Napa cabernet franc. Some mineral notes linger with the rich fruit and chocolate shavings on the finish. This wine (like all the other Hourglass wines I tasted) needs time in the decanter and/or five years of aging to show its full potential. A blend of 94% cabernet franc, with 3% cabernet sauvignon and 3% petit verdot, aged for 19 months in French oak, one-third new.

(91 points) $135

If Napa Valley is a boxing ring, cabernet franc is the journeyman fighter. Jeff and Tony acknowledge that it isn’t easy to make a great cabernet franc in Napa, and describe the process as a search for that “razor-thin edge of balance.” They nailed it.

2010 Hourglass Cabernet Sauvignon Blueline - California, Napa Valley
On the nose, this cab is pure darkness. Intense blackberry and cassis, with mocha, caramel and a hint of rose petal. Dense on the palate with focused cassis and plum fruit, highlighted by mocha, toast and chestnut. Much darker and deeper than the 2010 Blueline merlot and cabernet franc (obviously). Tinges of black cherry soda and loam carry the hedonistic finish. The 15.5% alcohol is integrated nicely. The depth of this wine is impressive. 100% cabernet sauvignon, aged 19 months in French oak, 45% new.

(90 points) $125   

2010 Hourglass Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley
From the Estate Vineyard, this cabernet is dark and dense on the nose, full of all sorts of berries, dried flowers, caramel. Very complex and seductive, although a bit reticent at this young age. Creamy and rich on the palate with silky tannins and medium acid. Full of cassis, fig paste, mixed berries, root beer and caramel. Toasty, but not overwhelming. Very sexy and balanced despite the intensity and youthfulness of this wine.

(92 points) Price unavailable (but let’s assume it ain’t cheap).

I was lucky enough to taste these wines in the company of other winelovers and (via the internet) with the winemakers. Hourglass is expensive and it’s not easy to get your hands on some. You can sign up for their mailing list, or maybe you could find some on a restaurant list. But if you get a chance to try some, and you can afford it, Hourglass reds won’t disappoint.