The Historic, Aged White & Tawny Ports from Kopke

I love Port, and of course, vintage Port. But there are so many other styles of Port that can be overlooked, at least until you receive a bunch of fascinating wines from Kopke.

Kopke does things a bit differently, with a unique focus on aged white Ports (10, 20, 30 and 40-year), as well as Colheita wines (vintage-dated Tawny Ports) dating back decades. Established in 1638, Kopke is obviously an ancient house with a long history, but most recently, in 2006, it was purchased by the Sogevinus Group, which owns several other Port brands.

All the wines I received were bottled in 2017, as noted on the back label. These wines spend as much time in the barrel as possible, and Kopke actually bottles their wines to order.

In short, Kopke boasts some fascinating stuff worth seeking out for the Port nerds out there. Skeptics of white Port, beware, these are wonderful wines. 

They were received as trade samples and tasted sighted from 375ml bottles.

N.V. Kopke Porto 10 Years Old White - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $40/375ml
Medium orange color. Aromas of orange peel, apricot jam, ginger, white flowers, honeysuckle. Plump texture on the palate but fresh acid, this is full of almond cake and graham cracker flavors on top of bruised apple and apricot jam. The depth is really impressive considering this is the youngest of the group. (90 points)

N.V. Kopke Porto 20 Year Old White - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $60/375ml
Rich orange color. Lovely aromatics of spiced white tea, candied orange peel, ginger snaps, toasted almond, honey – complex and evolving on the nose. Rich textural depth on the palate, a honeyed, oily mouthfeel but refreshing acidity keeps it in balance. The apricot and orange marmalade flavors play well with candied ginger, honeyed tea, graham cracker, toasted almond, spiced herbal liqueur. The complexity is wonderful, and yet it is fresh and easy to drink. (92 points)

N.V. Kopke Porto 30 Year Old White - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $90/375ml
Orange/amber color. Smells lovely: orange marmalade, apricot jam, green tea, ginger, almond, honey. Rich but so fresh on the palate with moderating acidity and plenty of orange, candied pineapple and mango flavors. Notes of graham cracker, cinnamon, candied ginger, along with complex elements of sea salt, spiced white tea, clover, floral perfume, honeycomb. Wow, this is complex, deep, delicious, gorgeous stuff! (94 points)

N.V. Kopke Porto 40 Year Old White - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $150/375ml
Rich amber color. Intoxicating aromas of lemon oil, almond, orange marmalade, caramelized sugar, candied apple peel, roasted pecans and honey – wow. The textural depth is absurd, honeyed and oily but stays fresh from the acidity. Flavors of apricot jam, ginger snaps, green tea, candle wax, wood varnish, graham cracker, honeycomb, the complexity is astounding. Long, lingering finish with deep notes of sea salt and honey. So delicious, but so lively. Wow. (96 points)

2003 Kopke Porto Colheita White - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $40/750ml
Rich orange color. Pretty aromatic display of orange liqueur, apricot jam, spiced tea, apple pie and cinnamon. Plump and rich but fresh, this is honeyed and plush with flavors of apricot, orange marmalade, graham cracker, lemon oil, so complex and deep. Delicious stuff with decades ahead. (92 points)

1941 Kopke Porto Colheita - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $785/750ml
Deep auburn color. Waves in intoxicating aromas: ginger snap, yellow raisin, candied pecans, dried mango, pumpkin pie spice. Incredible aromatic display. On the palate, the textural depth is impressive, medium acidity and the sweetness are woven in so beautifully. Harmonious flavors of glazed pear, baked apple, yellow raisin, topped in cinnamon, clove, candied nuts, shaved ginger, honey, spiced black tea, orange peel — complex and delicious, deep and velvety, wow. Gorgeous now, but this has decades to go for sure. (95 points)

1967 Kopke Porto Colheita - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $240/750ml
Rich amber color. Nose of caramel, clove, cinnamon and ginger snap on top of apple cider and orange marmalade, lots of intoxicating and complex aromas. Plump texture on the palate but such pretty acidity, balancing out the sweetness, and letting the flavors shine: ginger snap, apple crisp, orange marmalade, spiced orange liqueur, clove, honey, black tea. Rich and unctuous but plenty of freshness, too, and plenty of time ahead. (94 points)

1981 Kopke Porto Colheita - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $240/750ml
Rich, deep orange color. Aromas of orange marmalade, fig paste, sweet tobacco, violets, clove, candied ginger. Full, rich texture but superb balance and freshness. Flavors of quince paste, yellow plums, dried apricot, with notes of cinnamon, clove, ginger snaps, fruit cake and graham cracker. Finishes with nougat, honey and freshness. Lots of depth, plenty of evolution ahead. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Winter's Gone, but Port is Always in Season

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Winter is gone, Port is good in all kinds of weather. For me, there are few better post-dinner, late-night beverages than a good ol’ glass of Port.

Of course, you can spend a whole lot of money on Port, especially Vintage Port, especially when the 2011 vintage has been so heralded by many critics. But there are a lot of entry- and medium-level Ports that offer a glance into this historic wine realm without much pain to the wallet.

These wines were received as trade samples and tastes sighted.

N.V. Graham Porto Six Grapes Reserve - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $22/750ml
Deep purple color. Smells of fig paste, plum cake, molasses, brown sugar and raisins. Full and saucy but accessible tannins. Juicy, dark and rich with plum cake, roasted fig, blueberry jam. I get notes of earth, charcoal, dark chocolate and candied orange peel. Lots of flavor but immediately pleasurable and quite fresh. (87 points)

N.V. Warre Porto Otima 10 Year Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $26/375ml
Amber and clover honey color. Smells of apricot jam, fig paste, caramel, hot caramel and brown sugar. Full bodied, of course, a rich, chewy feel. The fruit tastes rich but lighter, like baked yellow apples, yellow raisins, apricot glaze and candied orange peel, plenty of caramel, honeycomb, some spice and toasted nut notes. Full and rich but stays relatively light for a Tawny, with some acid and some pleasant approachability. Delicious when served slightly chilled on a cold evening. (88 points)

N.V. Graham Porto 10 Year Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $36/750ml
Dark amber colored. Warm spices on the nose (clove, cinnamon sticks) along with brown sugar, fig cookie, quince paste and caramel. Smooth and full on the palate but this stays vibrant in spite of the richness. Flavors of apricot jam, dried pineapple, topped in caramel, roasted chestnut, nougat and some brown sugar. Rich but harmonious. (90 points)

2001 Graham Porto Vintage Quinta dos Malvedos - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $30/375ml
Rich purple color. A warm, inviting aromatic display of roasted figs, baked plum tart, red currant jam, caramel and toasted almonds. Full and rich on the palate, firm tannins but fined down a bit around the edges, moderate acid keeps it vibrant. Rich plum cake and baked fig flavors mix with cocoa, earth, coffee and toasted coconut accents. A chewy, rich wine, shows quite well now with plenty of structure for a long life in the cellar. (91 points IJB)

N.V. Sandeman Porto Founder’s Reserve - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $19/750ml
Dark violet color. Nose of rich fig past, boysenberry jam, baked plums, some smoky, toasty, sweet coffee notes. Full and chewy on the palate but accessible tannins. Rich flavors of plum sauce, baked brownie, vanilla, along with sweet cocoa, roasted nuts and some underlying earthiness. Great intro to Port but enough to contemplate and savor. (86 points IJB)

Wine Reviews: Portugal, Land of Diversity and Value

This complex and terroir-drived Vinho Verde was the
biggest surprise of the tasting. And it's only $23!

Whether it’s easy-sipping aperitifs, complex oak-aged whites or rich reds, you can find it in Portugal. And you don’t need to spend a fortune. (Vintage Port is the notable exception, but the 2011 Vintage Port in this report is still a steal at $80.) These wines — just a drop in the Portuguese bucket — were received as trade samples and tasted sighted for a report in the daily wine blog Terroirist.  

2012 Gazela Vinho Verde - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde
SRP: $7
Slight fizz. Aromas of grapefruit, lime and a slight herbal note. Tangy and fresh, with very fine bubbles. The grapefruit, lemon and margarita salt flavors are bright and easy. Seems like a perfect summer beach wine. (85 points)

2012 Quinta de Gomariz Loureiro Vinho Verde Colheita Seleccionada - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde
SRP: $14
A straw-slightly grassy color. Bursting with lemon, pineapple, honeysuckle and minerals on the nose. Starts off with a big dose of acid, but the creamy fruit comes in to back it up (green melon, pineapple, apricot). I like the kick of minerals and the dried honey and white tea aspects to this wine. Crisp, very clean and refreshing. (86 points)

2011 Aphros Vinho Verde Daphné - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde
SRP: $23
Nose smells of apricot, white peach, and an aroma that reminds me newly unpackaged rubber. There’s also an oily, hazelnut aroma as well. Crisp, medium+ acid with some richness to the body. Delicious green apple, white peach, lime and fresh apricot, accented with sea salt, oyster shells. Also some nutty, creamy, whipped honey aspects. Clean, floral, mineral-driven. A beautiful Vinho Verde, 100% Loureiro, fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged in old oak and chestnut barrels. Has the mineral and oceanic elements of a granite soil Muscadet and the stone fruit purity of a Mosel Riesling. I’m seriously impressed. (91 points)

2012 Quinta da Raza Alvarinho Grande Escolha - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Regional MinhoSRP: $11
Pale straw color. Aromas of melon, guava, and some sea salt and lime aspects. Tangy on the palate, with creamy honey, green melon, lime. There’s some real pop and punch to this white. High acid but juicy and waxy in texture. A great wine to have with salads. (87 points)

2010 Casal do Paço Padreiro Vinho Verde Afros Silenus - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde
SRP: $?
A magenta-purple color. Wonderfully smoky and meaty on the nose, with pepper, dried flowers and pickling spices. Wow, the acid is so tart on the palate, but there’s enough dusty tannin to fight back. Mineral-driven, with black cherry and tart cranberry fruit, backed up by green and black pepper, pickling spices and charcoal. A tingling and tart wine. I love it, and I’d love it even more with some grilled sausage and peppers. From the Vinhão grape. (89 points)

2010 Quinta de Roriz Douro Prazo de Roriz - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $16
Nose shows bright cherries and cranberries on the nose, with some roses, anise and earth. Fully-bodied with tangy acid, chewy tannins tannins. Currant fruit leads the way, and I get a lot of earth smoke and iron. Some anise and sweet lavender on the finish. Tasty stuff for a great price. A blend of red Port grapes including Tinta Barroca, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Amarela. (87 points)

2011 Prats and Symington Douro Post Scriptum de Chryseia - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $25
A light purple color. Roasted coffee and smoke accent the plum and black cherry aromas. Nice grit from the tannins but freshness comes from the acid. The black cherry and plum fruit is pure and crisp, backed up by coffee, rich loam and a pleasant dose of vanilla and cinnamon. The finish is long and delicious. Impressive structure, this wine has some staying power. A blend of 56% Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Franca, 7% Tinta Barroca and 7% Tinta Roriz. (89 points)

2011 Sandeman Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $80
Dark, lush purple color. Aromas of brandied plums, blackberry jam, charcoal and violets. So full and big on the palate, with prune and blackberry fruit mixed with sweet coconut shavings and chocolate. A deep sense of crushed rocks and granite. Sweet and saucy but still fresh. Long, full, intense finish. So good, but so young. If you got married in 2011, bury some of this for your 30th! The first declared vintage since 2007, and it’s awesome. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.