Showing posts with label Georgian wine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Georgian wine. Show all posts

Friday, August 2, 2019

Celebrating Summer & Natural Wines with Maryland's Burnt Hill

I've grown tired of the term "natural wine."

When I first heard the term pop up a decade or so ago, usually among conversation with my dorky wine trade friends, it made some sense. It was used to describe a lot of the wines we all had liked for a long time: lower alcohol, no overt new oak, sometimes fizzy (Pet-Nat, for example), sometimes funky and quirky.

The winemakers who extolled this old-school, less technologically-focused aesthetic seemed like the kind of crunchy nerds I loved to hang out with. The focus on sustainability, biodynamics and other eco-conscious farming and winemaking methods has always resonated with me. And, of course, I found the wines to be delicious and fascinating.

But the term avoided definition or classification, and was used loosely and unsparingly. As the movement grew and garnered more and more attention in the culture, I noticed two loose camps begin to assemble.

The Natural Wine Evangelists seemed driven by levels of conviction and certainty that were beyond me. Now, I'm a semi-crunchy, organic-loving, biodynamic-supporting, nature-worshipping outdoorsman who really enjoys plenty of low-sulfite, extended skin contact, funky wines. But while I support low-intervention farming methods for environmental reasons, I'm unconvinced natural wines are any better for the human body. I have similar worries about the holier-than-thou attitude that seems to be a byproduct of the certain elements within the natural wine movement.

Then there are the Natural Wine Haters. They write off the entire movement as misguided, the wines as undrinkable, the natural wine-lovers as hipster lemmings. Their disdain for natural wines rivals the missionary zeal of the other side.

I'm not happy in either camp, although my sympathies lie with small producers trying to minimize their impact on the environment. But I find most of the discussion about what is and what is not "natural wine" and why it's good or bad to be exhausting. This is why I've written so little on the topic.

But I was beyond stoked to attend the inaugural
Solstice Festival at Burnt Hill in Montgomery County, Maryland. This natural wine festival attracted me, first and foremost, because of the people behind it. I first wrote about Old Westminster Winery in 2016. I could tell Drew Baker and his sisters Ashli and Lisa were onto something great, and I was going to keep my eye on them.

When they broke ground on their new farm, Burnt Hill, and started talking about Maryland Gamay, I was all ears. Dave McIntyre at the Washington Post has a great, in-depth write-up on Burnt Hill in the Washington Post, which I won't attempt to reiterate because, well, he gets it all down pretty damn well
here.

The Burnt Hill Crew teamed up with a few dozen low-intervention winemakers from all over the country (and world). They all gathered at a gorgeous farm in the rolling hills of Clarksburg, Maryland, to crack open bottles and spread positive wine vibes.

Only a cynical teetotaler could manage not to have a total blast at this festival. Hundreds of people gathered under large tents to taste unique and quirky wines of all different varieties and styles. I saw a few greased mustaches, but found nary a hint of pretension. I met up with some old friends, made a few new ones, and enjoyed supporting one of the Mid-Atlantic's most exciting wine producers.

Through it all, I managed to take a bunch of tasting notes on some delicious wines, which are included below. Enjoy! I sure did. And I can't wait to celebrate the Summer Solstice again at this festival in 2020.


Broc Cellars


2018 Broc Cellars Chenin Blanc Pétillant Shell Creek Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Yeasty, lots of fizz, pear, honey, dusty, tart lemon, some spice and herbal tones, Really delicious. (90 points)


2018 Broc Cellars Friulano amore bianco Fox Hill Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
Tropical, floral, peach nectar, tiny bubbles, lots of flowers and fruit, balanced nicely, a transparent style, and I love it. (91 points)


2017 Broc Cellars Cabernet Franc Whole Cluster - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
Juicy, cherries, plush, not too herbaceous, bright and spicy, whole-cluster fermented. (88 points)


Hiyu Wine Farm


N.V. Hiyu Apple Floreal Cider - USA, Oregon, Hood River County
Juicy, crunchy, fizzy, fun. (87 points)


2018 Hiyu Zinfandel Smockshop Band Rosé - USA, Oregon, Columbia Valley
Gorgeous cherry color. Rich texture, juicy raspberries, with spice and herbs. (89 points)


2018 Hiyu Grenache Smockshop Band - USA, Oregon, Columbia Valley
Spicy, earthy, strawberries, bright and fun, spicy and tangy with a charcoal and forest floor element. Very exciting. (91 points)


N.V. Hiyu The May II - USA, Oregon/Washington, Columbia Gorge
Deep auburn color. Shows caramel, spiced tea, tons of pepper and grilling spices, shows some tannins, some volatile acidity but it’s woven in nicely (kind of like Madeira) and the wine shows a lot of depth and intrigue. A blend of wines from five different vintages, skin-fermented Pinot varieties. A weird wine that actually really works out, and I’m a fan. (89 points)

Georgian wines


2017 Chona's Marani Mtsvane & Rkatsiteli - Georgia, Kakheti
Almond, hay, waxy, apricot, sea salt. (88 points)


2017 Chona's Marani Rkatsiteli - Georgia, Kakheti
Very perfumed, briny, big texture, spiced tea and ginger, mint and menthol elements, a really balanced but wild wine that I found really impressive. (90 points)


2018 Baia's Wine Tsolikouri - Georgia, West Georgia, Imereti
Quince, orange marmalade, super zippy with briny, salty complexities, and hay, waxy, honeyed notes. Really unique and fascinating, totally delicious, a real surprise and treat. (91 points)


2018 Gvantsa's Wine Aladasturi - Georgia, West Georgia, Imereti
Super spicy red with cherries, strawberries, lots of incense, potpourri, spiced tea, bitter black tea. Fun stuff with some unique spicy flavor profiles. (88 points)


2016 Naotari Rkatsiteli Kisi Khikhvi Amber Wine - Georgia, Kakheti, Kvareli
So briny, dusty, earthy, a bit heavy and bitter. Pass. A blend of Rkatsiteli, Kisi and Khikhvi. (80 points)


2017 Orgo Saperavi - Georgia, Kakheti
Dark tart, anise, incense sticks, tangy plum skins and pepper. Fun! (87 points)

California

2017 Matthiasson Chardonnay Harms Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
Salty and fresh with lemon crème, apricot. Pure, salty, a bit briny but lots of lush elements of honey and cream as well. Very pretty Chardonnay from Matthiasson, per usual. (91 points)


2018 Matthiasson Mataro Tendu - USA, California, Central Valley, Yolo County
Fresh, spicy, tangy, yet shows complexity. Vibrant red fruits with earthy, savory elements. Complex yet goes down so easily. (88 points)


2018 Matthiasson Tendu - USA, California
Barbera-based blend. Juicy, tangy but sweet cranberry sauce, raspberries, fun and fresh and crushable. (87 points)


2017 Matthiasson Grenache Syrah Mourvèdre - USA, California, Napa Valley
So fresh and floral with tangy red fruits and lots of pepper, potpourri, grilled herbs. Juicy but it’s really complex and spicy as well. (90 points)

Lightwell Survey

2016 Lightwell Survey Cabernet Franc The Weird Ones Are Wolves - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
Crushable, punchy, juice, nice floral, spice, tea elements. Has dashed of Petite Manseng and Riesling in it. Pretty cool stuff. (88 points)


2018 Lightwell Survey Blaufränkisch Dark Days - USA, Virginia
Really dark ruby color. Lots of fun, fresh, juicy strawberries and floral, spicy tones. 100% Blaufränkisch. (87 points)


2016 Lightwell Survey Hintermen - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
Peachy, tennis ball, magnolia flowers on the nose. Floral and juicy on the palate with super ripe peach, drizzled with lime, a mineral-rocky undertone. Really fun and cool stuff. Riesling and Petite Manseng. (89 points)

Fausse Piste


2018 Fausse Piste Muscat Fish Sauce Pet-Nat - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills
Spicy, floral, punchy, fine bubbles, really fresh. (88 points)


2018 Fausse Piste Oyster Sauce Grenache Rosé - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Rogue Valley
Grenache rose. Fresh cherries and strawberries, racy acidity. (89 points)


N.V. Fausse Piste Pizza Sauce - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
Zesty, cherry-driven, accessible but has this complexity of texture and flavors from the aging and solera-style of this wine. Easy-drinking in the best sense of the word, but a lot of fun, too. A multi-vintage blend of all sorts of red (and some white) grapes. (90 points)

Scholium Project

2015 Scholium Project La Severità di Bruto Farina - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
Deep texture, rich fruit (orange, lemon, peach) with spicy herbal tones. Vibrant and impressive. (89 points)


2016 Scholium Project The Prince In His Caves Farina - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
Lemon, peach, honey, waxy notes, some mint and white pepper. This has some skin-contact that gives it a lot more textural depth and some cool olive oil and almond elements. (90 points)


2016 Scholium Project 1MN Bechtold Ranch - USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi
So aromatic with rose potpourri, pepper, clove, warm clay, tangy red apple and raspberry fruit. Gorgeous texture, dusty tannins, crisp acidity, crunchy red fruits laced with all sorts of earthy, savory complexities. A beautiful Bechtoldt vineyard that should do interesting things with age. Wine of the festival for me. (93 points)

Purity


2018 Purity Wine Verdelho Silvaspoons - USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi
Whoa! No formal notes, but this wine wowed me and kept me at this table to try the others. (90 points)


2018 Purity Wine Roussanne Orange Carbo-Crush Oakstone - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Nevada County
So, this is really fun. Skin-fermented, semi-carbonic Roussanne – and it works! Texturally deep but fresh, with a pleasant bitterness and lots of complex spicy, floral tones. Fascinating and, yeah, weird, but it works. I bought a bottle to blind some wine nerds on and mess with them. (91 points)


2016 Purity Wine Grenache Covfefe Oakstone Vineyard - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Nevada County
So spicy, tangy, nice grip. Tart fruits with lots of pepper and earth and a fun but not overwhelming amount of funky, beefy notes. (87 points)


2015 Purity Wine Syrah Blackbird - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
Stewed plums, incense sticks, black pepper, mulling spices. A warm and roasted kind of Syrah, but still nice. (86 points)

Monday, May 1, 2017

Challenge Yourself with Delicious & Historic Georgian Wines

Imagine you consider yourself a huge fan of punk music, but all you know is Green Day and Blink 182. Then one day someone plays you the self-titled album from the Ramones. Your musical worldview is crushed by the weight of history and sheer awesomeness, forcing you to radically adjust your beliefs. This is the kind of experience Georgian wines offer the wine-lover.

Wine as a human endeavor arose from the soils of Georgia, which abuts the Black Sea on its western edge and stretches east toward the Caspian Sea. People have been fermenting grapes in this region for some 8,000 years. Yes, you read that correctly. Archaeologists have found lots of evidence of clay fermenting vessels in Georgia that date back to around 6,000 BCE. And Georgia boasts hundreds of indigenous grape varieties — go ahead, try and pronounce them: Tsolikouri, Tsitska, Jgia, Aladasturi.



My first experience with Georgian wines took place about 15 years ago, when I was living in Ukraine. I was still a teenager but I was legal in Ukraine, and the wine shops in Kyiv were packed with all sorts of Georgian vino. (During the decades under Soviet rule, Georgia was the grape basket of the USSR, producing millions of bottles of usually sweet wine for consumption by party officials and other privileged people.) I found dozens of funkily-shaped bottles with three or four languages on the label, which represented pure adventure for my inexperienced but curious palate. For three bucks a pop, they were good. Very good.

Over the years, as I returned to visit family in Ukraine, I snagged as many different Georgian wine bottles I could find. I cellared some of them and cracked them open for wine nerd friends in blind tastings just to mess with them and watch their confused faces when I unveiled the bottle.

And it’s easy to feel totally confused by Georgian wine bottles — their labels are to the average consumer what J.L Borges’ “Labyrinths” is to those looking for a beach read. Sure, the Georgian alphabet looks beautiful with its rounded edges and intricate swirls, but it’s near impossible for the outsider to decipher. Then there are the words that appear in English. Kindzmarauli, for example. Is it: a) a region; b) a grape variety; c) a producer; or d) a proprietary style? It isn't so simple.


If you’re a wine nerd and ponder questions like “Do tannins exist in white wines?” or “What are the limits of minimalist winemaking?” then it’s time to explore Georgian wines. If you’re a casual drinker who is curious about what this “natural wine” phenomenon is all about, Georgia is the place. Or if you’re just looking for something completely different to drink with big meals and family gatherings, dig into Georgian wines.

In recent years, Georgian wines have seen a lot of attention from hip restaurants and sommeliers in places like New York and San Francisco, especially in restaurant and wine bars focused on the concept of “natural wine.” Regardless of your thoughts about the loaded label “natural wine,” this heightened focus on Georgia should not be lumped in with some trope about pretentious wine hipsterism.


Georgian wines are as wild and old school as it gets, and evangelists for Georgian wines possess justified passion. Also, the recent focus on Georgian wines doesn’t stem from some drastic change in the Georgian winemaking culture, although a marketing presence in the United States has helped open up some eyes. Georgian wines are ancient, and this cradle of winemaking culture does not react as quickly and precisely to changing market trends like California and other savvy New World wine cultures.

I think a lot of the attraction toward Georgian wines stems from a shift in the American consumer base toward unique, “natural,” even challenging wines. And for wine gurus who fancy themselves experts, Georgian wines offer a dizzying lesson in humility. To wine newbs, Georgian wines offer endless exploration and some aroma and flavor profiles you won’t find anywhere else in the world. No matter what your background or experience with wine from other countries, when it comes to Georgian wines, prepare to have your mind and palate jostled around. You may not “like” some Georgian wines — at a recent trade tasting, I found at least one wine that I would not consume. But all great adventures are, at times, odd or uncomfortable. That’s all part of the journey.

Traditionally, Georgian winemakers ferment their grapes in qvevri like these.
I won’t attempt to go into all the details here, but I want to touch on a few basics about how Georgian winemaking is unique. Organic and biodynamic vineyard practices are commonplace in Georgia, and many indigenous varieties fare well in their home soils. These are hand-made wines in the truest sense. Traditionally, Georgian wines have not been fermented in vats or barrels, but large clay vessels which are buried up to their necks in the ground. These vessels, called qvevri, are traditionally filled with whole clusters of grapes, where ambient yeasts start fermentation whenever they damn well please.

In most wine regions, white wines are destemmed and pressed very quickly, meaning the juice inside the grapes gets very little skin contact. This is what gives many Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris wines have bright flavors and pale color. But if you toss a bunch of white grape bunches into a qvevri and let all the juice, grape skins and stems do their thing (usually without help from commercial yeasts), you get a vastly different wine. Sometimes called “orange wines” due to their color, Georgian white wines can be fascinating and sometimes wild things. Overall, Georgian wines comprise a rainbow of colors in the glass — from clear lemon color to cloudy orange creamsicle, from pale strawberry to neon purple.

There are some winemakers in Georgia utilizing more modern winemaking methods, like less skin contact for white wines, fermentation in stainless steel, new oak barrel aging for reds. These wines are fascinating as well, especially when tasted alongside qvevri wines, and I expect Americans may see more of these wines popping up.

I recently attended a trade tasting of Georgian wines put on by Wines of Georgia, a trade group, where Georgian wine Alice Feiring presented a lecture on the history of Georgian wines. She literally wrote the book on wines from Georgia:
“For the Love of Wine: My Odyssey through the World's Most Ancient Wine Culture.”

I tasted a few dozen wines and managed to get the names of producers, regions and grape varieties down for formal tasting notes (which was not an easy feat). I’ve pasted them all below for your perusal. If you’d like to track down any of these wines, I broke my tasting notes down by the U.S. importer. 

Terrell Wines

2014 Giorgi Revazashvili's Marani Chinuri - Georgia, Kakheti
Pretty aromas of floral spice and lemon curd. Tart, zesty, gorgeous acidity, lots of tart orange, lime juice, crusty minerals and earthy spice elements. Made without the typical extended skin contact. Lots to investigate, but this is straight delicious. Made from Chinuri grapes with some Gorguli and Mtsvane grapes blended in. 10% alcohol. (88 points)


2015 Archil Guniava Wine Cellar Kvaliti - Georgia, West Georgia, Imereti
Orange pith, honeycomb, lemon meringue, brisk acidity with waxy texture and complex spice elements. A blend of Tsolikouri, Tsitska and Krakhuna grapes. (87 points)


2014 Okro's Wines Melkos - Tsolikouri - Georgia, Kakheti
Orange zest, limes, very tangy and bright, surprisingly fresh, not as intense in the herbal/tea elements, stays bright. A blend of Melkos and Tsolikouri grapes. (87 points)


2015 Nikoladzeebis Tsitska - Georgia, West Georgia, Imereti
Chalky, mineral-laden, lemon curd, lime, zesty and bright and very refreshing, quite complex. Tsitska is the grape variety. (88 points)


2015 Nikalas Marani Kisi Akhoebi - Georgia, West Georgia
Smells like orange zest and all sorts of black and white teas and herbal spices. Tart, zesty ad pithy with some tannin from the skin contact, giving it a bold structure. Lots of tea, sage, pickling spice and some funky, earthy tones, but I find this wine delicious. Kisi is the white grape variety and Akhoebi is the vineyard, a respected, biodynamically farmed site. (89 points)


2015 Kortavebis Marani Rkatsiteli - Georgia, Kakheti
Smells of honey, bruised pear and orange peel. Chalky texture, lots of brightness and bit to this wine, with orange and candied lemon. Notes of dusty earth and wild herbs, lots of complexity to ponder. (88 points)


2014 Antadze Winery Rkatsiteli - Georgia, Kakheti
Smells like white tea, honey, sour apple, almond and spicy herbs. So pure and mineral-packed with spiced tea, apricot and honey notes. (89 points)


2014 Antadze Winery Rkatsiteli Amber - Georgia, Kakheti
Darker amber color with vermouth, spiced tea, orange peel, wild herbs. Chalky texture with lots of spiced tea elements. Fascinating, if somewhat inaccessible wine, but I find it so tasty. This bottling has an extra six months of whole bunch cluster fermentation in qvevri. (88 points)


2015 Kortavebis Marani Mtsvane - Georgia, Kakheti
Lots of waxy and herbal elements with orange blossom, green tea, honeycomb and spiced liqueur notes. (88 points)


2015 Makaridze Winery Aladasturi Rosé - Georgia, West Georgia
Smells like bitter lemon and orange marmalade. Zesty, Sour Patch kids-esque on the palate but lots of orange blossom, spiced tea, mushroom and rose petal notes. Wow, there is a lot going on in this wine, a rosé made from the red grape Aladasturi. (90 points)


2015 Tsikhelishvili Wines Jgia - Georgia, Kakheti
Aromas of spicy red berries, rose hips and raspberry bush. So spicy on the palate with vibrant acidity and moderate tannic structure. Crisp, bright red berry fruit doused in smoke, leather saddle and some funky spice. Intriguing but also delicious. Jgia is the grape variety. (89 points)


2015 Winery of Zurab Topuridze Chkhaveri Rosé - Georgia, West Georgia
A very cool rosé wine. Smells like red apples, sour cherries and tonic water. Tart and earthy on the palate with a unique combo of savory herbs, sour cherries and wild raspberry. (88 points)


2015 Archil Guniava Wine Cellar Kvaliti  - Georgia, West Georgia, Imereti
More dark fruits on the nose with notes of herbs, spices and tar. Smooth but structured, savory (mushroom, spice rub) but juicy currant and fig fruit keeps it vibrant. Long, smoky, leathery finish. Very impressive. Made from the Ouskhanuri Sapere grape, one of Georgia’s oldest grape varieties, and some Tsolikouri (a white grape) blended in. (90 points)


Blue Danube Wines

2015 Doqi Rkatsiteli - Georgia, Kakheti
One of the few wines not fermented in qvervi. It’s made in a Western style (without skin contact, stainless steel), and it smells like Chenin with its ripe apple, juicy limes, honey and floral tones. Brisk, fresh, crisp, clean, lots of bright citrus and floral elements. Very pretty. (88 points)


2013 Kindzmarauli Marani Kakhetian Royal - Georgia, Kakheti, Kindzmareuli
Nose shows orange peels and spiced tea. Palate is tart but juicy with citrus and salted almonds. (87 points)


2014 Gotsa Tsitska - Georgia, Kakheti, Babaneuri Valley
Aromas of oranges and lemon zest. Crisp and bright on the palate with complex herbal tones and lots of salty, tea-laden spice. Some skin-contact tannins provide depth and structure but it stays vibrant. Wow, this one really gets me stoked. (91 points)


2004 Shavnabada Mtsvane - Georgia, Kakheti
Aromas of honey and oranges and wet tea leaves. Dried apricot flavors topped with complex elements of herbal tea and dried honey. Moderately oxidized but still shows some life. Aged in a monastery’s qvevri for many years before being bottled. Funky but fascinating, and I love the flavor profile. (87 points)


2015 Gotsa Saperavi - Georgia, Kakheti, Babaneuri Valley
A Jura-like combo of tart red fruit, spiced tea and red flowers on the nose. Crisp and bright with juicy cherries, rose petals and black tea. Delicious, balanced, complex, yet easy to drink. (89 points)


2015 Amiran's Wine Cellar Krakhuna - Georgia, West Georgia, Imereti
Smells like sour apples, potting soil and compost heap – seriously weird. So, so, so funky. This wine is perplexing, strange, wild, unbalanced. Krakhuna is the grape variety. (N/R)


Made in a monastery, this is an
absolutely fascinating Saperavi
2009 Shavnabada Saperavi - Georgia, Kakheti
A fascinating, delicious and contemplative wine. Nose of currants, pencil lead, dusty earth and herbal smoke. Such serious tannic structure, this is a dense wine but shows some vibrancy. Reminds me a bit of a young Loire Cabernet Franc with its dark fruit, complex non-fruit elements, and bright acidity, but this shows classic Georgian elements of black tea, pipe smoke and incense. Love it. This wine is aged eight years in qvevri. (91 points)


2014 Amiran's Wine Cellar Otskhanuri Sapere - Georgia, West Georgia, Imereti
Wow, pretty dark plums, violets, lots of earth on the nose. So structured with solid tannins and bright acidity, lots of tart black plums, currants, smoke, anise, dense herbal notes. Love it. Aged nine months in qvevri. Made from the Otskhanuri Sapere grape. (90 points)


2015 doqi Khvanchkara - Georgia, West Georgia, Racha, Khvanchkara
Dark plums and earth on the nose. Slight sweetness but it’s balanced nicely with zesty acidity. Juicy dark fruit and earth tones, almost Beaujolais-like. (86 points)


2014 Kindzmarauli Marani Kindzmarauli Original Semi-Sweet - Georgia, Kakheti, Kindzmareuli
Zesty oranges and ruby red grapefruit aromas. Herbal and spicy on the palate with sweet red currant paste. Fun, not too rich. (86 points)

Artevani


2011 Artevani Rkatsiteli - Georgia, Kakheti
Nose of salted almonds, green herbs and spice rub. Rich texture but refreshing with bright flavors of orange peels, notes of almond skin and wild herbs. Long, complex finish. (88 points)


2015 Artevani Saperavi - Georgia, Kakheti
Smells of savory spices, dark plums and sweet violets and cola. Pummy, dark, rich structure with bold tannins but bright acidity with bold black cherries and spiced black tea. Rich, burly structure, a lot more accessible considering it’s fermented in stainless steel (not qvevri). (88 points)


2015 Artevani Saperavi Medium Sweet - Georgia, Kakheti, Kindzmareuli
Dark purple color with aromas of violets and sweet plum cake. Coffee, flowers, dark earth on the juicy palate with dark, saucy black fruits. The sugar stands out too much but the flavors are tasty. (85 points)


Georgian Wine House

2014 Schuchmann Mtsvane - Georgia, Kakheti
Salted almonds and lemon curd. Zesty and fun if a bit simple. (85 points)


2013 Shalauri Cellars Rkatsiteli - Georgia, Kakheti
Nose of dried apricot, orange peel, almond. Dry and herbal with some tea, honeycomb and orange peel elements. (87 points)


2015 Our Wine Rkatsiteli Akhoebi - Georgia, Kakheti
Smells like spiced tea, candles, pine tree and apricot with a vermouth-like spice and bitter element. Fermented in qvevri for six months with skin and stem contact. Fun but a bit weird (even in a Georgian wine tasting). (86 points)


2015 Dilao Amber Dry - Georgia, Kakheti
A fresher style with bright orange and apricot aromas and flavors, some peach nectar, some white tea elements but not too herbal of funky. A 50/50 blend of Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane. (87 points)


2015 Dilao Saperavi - Georgia, Kakheti
This is really impressive and delicious. Fresh and juicy cherry and plum aromas with roses and violets. Pure and vibrant on the palate, plush tannins, fresh acidity. Packed with dark currant, lots of charcoal and spiced tea elements. Rich, fruit-forward, but balanced. Perhaps a great entry for New World palates into Georgian Saperavi. (90 points)


2015 Dakishvili Family Vineyards Saperavi Vita Vinea - Georgia, Kakheti
Smells of tart red plums, earth, incense sticks. Bright and vibrant but structured, firm tannins, crisp acidity. There’s some cedar and coffee (this wine is aged in oak after qvervi fermentation), but also some earthy, herbal, incense stick notes. Complex but so damn delicious. (90 points)


2014 Schuchmann Saperavi Pirosmani - Georgia, Kakheti
Smells like sweet cherries, cola and violets. Friendly, fun, dark and juicy and fruit. Pirosmani denotes a fruit-forward style of making Saperavi. (86 points)


2014 Schuchmann Saperavi - Georgia, Kakheti
Nose or rich, dark plums and cherries with savory herbs. Dry, sturdy tannins, juicy acidity, the plum and black cherry fruit is pleasantly saucy and I get complex notes of pepper and herbs. Delicious. (89 points)