Wintertime is here, and I hope you’re looking forward to the holidays. It’s getting colder, and I made my first cassoulet of the season, so it’s time for warming red wines.
And with the World Cup going on, I decided to round up some red wines from around the world that would be great options for the winter season. I also wanted to highlight some serious values as well, and many of these wines fit that bill.
From Chile to Napa, I have some Cabernets that offer a lot of richness and depth for not a lot of money. And there’s a delightful Tuscan red and Barossa Shiraz in here as well.
Rioja is always a good call in my book, and this week I have three from Bodegas Montecillo – a producer that has 150 years of winemaking history and sources their grapes mostly from the Rioja Alta subregion. The value in these wines is seriously impressive, and they have the ability to age and improve in the cellar for a while.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2017 Colle Massari Montecucco Rosso Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $25
Vibrant purple color. Lovely nose of black cherries, tart black currants and some fig paste, with lovely depth of spicy and herbal tones, including roasted meats, rocky hillsides, violets, wild herbs – a lot to parse out. Refreshing acidity and dusty tannins make for a finely balanced wine, full of tangy currant fruit. I love the stony, mineral, sun-roasted rock feel to this wine, along with the complexity and enticing nature of the herbal, earthy, and savory nuances. This begs for cold nights and your best braised meat recipe. Serious value alert! (91 points IJB)
2018 Yalumba Shiraz Samuel's Collection - Australia, South Australia, Barossa
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. A dark but juicy Barossa nose of plums, blueberries, with a mix of spicy, peppery, savory elements, including black pepper, balsamic glaze and anise. The palate is jammy but fresh with chewy tannins and moderating acidity, with ripe blueberries and sweet black cherries. Notes of pepper, sage, leather, black olive and spiced tea add a lot of fun and complexity. An accessible but shows depth and balance, too. (89 points IJB)
2020 Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon Cuvée Alexandre Apalta Vineyard - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $26
Dark purple color. Juicy but deep on the nose with dark currants and saucy plums. Notes of charcoal, anise, pepper, mesquite and grilled steak add complexity. Moderately grippy tannins balance nicely with vibrant acidity and a core of dark, tangy fruit (blueberries, blackberries). I get notes of earth, anise, paved road, graphite and some coffee. Forward but complex, this is delicious now but could also hold for a few years. (90 points IJB)
2018 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $15
Vibrant ruby color. Aromas of raspberries and red currants, with tones of tobacco, sage, earthy vibes, with floral potpourri. The palate sports dusty tannins an lively acidity, and this medium/full-bodied wine has a nice lively balance. Tart currants and strawberries, the fruit is crunchy and juicy, mixed with tobacco, pepper, rose petals, and earthy, mineral undertones. A reliably delicious Rioja value, here. (88 points IJB)
2017 Campo Viejo Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $15
Medium ruby. The nose has a nice compote of raspberries, cherries and cranberries, with notes of cigar box, white pepper and dried roses. Plums and sweet cherries with soft tannins and smooth acidity. Black cherry and cranberry relish fruit mix with notes of tobacco, cedar, white pepper, some smoky, graphite elements, too. Fresh, fun, a crowd-pleasing style at a great price point. (87 points IJB)
2017 Bodegas Montecillo Rioja Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $13
Deep ruby color. The nose sports juicy cherries and raspberries, with a floral-spicy combo, black pepper, tar, anise – a lot going on. The palate is tangy and ripe with dusty tannins and crisp acidity, backed up by black cherries and dark plums. There’s a complex mix of sage, oregano, pepper, tobacco and some sweeter-savory tones of violets, roasted red peppers and coffee. Fun and forward, but the level of balance and complexity at this price point is impressive. Aged 18 months in American oak. (88 points IJB)
2014 Bodegas Montecillo Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $20
Bright ruby color. So spicy on the nose, with pepper and paprika, over classic Rioja goodness: tangy red and black currants, topped in smoky, earthy, clay and pencil shaving tones. On the palate, the tannins are structured but refined, with moderate-plus acidity, balanced so nicely with tangy currant and tart plum fruit. The non-fruit elements are really what make this wine shine: clay and dusty earth, light roast coffee and pine tar, these floral and cigar box tones. Delightful now, but holding for a few would benefit this wine. Aged 24 months in French and American oak. (89 points IJB)
2011 Bodegas Montecillo Rioja Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $23
Deep ruby color. Dusty, earthy, floral and savory tones are very expressive on the nose, with black cherries, cranberry relish, and mulling spices, beef broth, mushroom, dried flowers. On the palate, the dusty tannins are refined and provide effortless structure, while the acidity is crisp makes the wine so fresh. The cranberry and mulled cherry fruit has a lot of cool nuances, and the non-fruit expression is great: roses, violets, light roast coffee, chewing tobacco, earthy-gravelly elements, soy and mushroom flavors This is really vibrant, spicy and nuanced, and could offer even more in a few years. Crazy value in this Rioja! Aged 28 months in French oak. (90 points IJB)
2019 Castello di Amorosa Pinot Noir - USA, California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $42
Deep ruby color. The nose shows sweet cherries and plums, tart blueberries, along with rhubarb, spiced tea and cola tones. Sweet tannins on the palate, moderate acidity, with a host of juicy fruits (raspberries, blueberries, black cherries). Notes of violets, rose petals, spiced tea, light roast coffee and toffee add complexity. Fun and juicy but some nice spicy complexity as well. Aged 11 months in 45% new French oak. (89 points IJB)
2019 Barra of Mendocino Petite Sirah - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
SRP: $26
Dark purple color. Deep nose of black cherries and blackberry jam, mixed with spicy pepper, tobacco, violets and some coffee and magic marker. Full but fresh, a chewy but smooth feel with lively acidity, nicely balanced example of this variety. Black cherry and roasted fig fruit, dark and suave, with flavors of smoky earth, anise, toffee, mocha and vanilla. Delicious, fun Petite Sirah and a great cold weather wine. (89 points IJB)
2019 Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $22
Medium purple color. Aromas show jammy plums and blueberries, along with sweet coffee and toffee, some clove and mint chocolate chips. Ripe and jammy on the palate with soft tannins and medium/low acidity, with flavors of plum sauce and sweet black cherries. Notes of pepper, toffee and coffee add yumminess. Juicy, fun, straightforward style. From Mendocino and Sonoma County fruit. (86 points IJB)
2018 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
SRP: $60
Vibrant purple color. Saucy and enticing on the nose, with lovely earth, pepper, smoked meats, brisket, dried violets and graphite over the deep core of black currant and blackberry fruit. On the palate, this is refreshing and deep, with grippy tannins and lovely freshness from the acidity. Deep, tangy fruit (blackberry, dark currants), which is laced with complexities of smoky earth, graphite, roasted red pepper, sage and cracked pepper. Hints of toast are woven in expertly and there’s a deep, mineral-laden presence on the finish. This will age wonderfully. (93 points IJB)
Showing posts with label Barossa Valley. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Barossa Valley. Show all posts
Monday, December 12, 2022
Saturday, November 24, 2018
New Releases from Australia
When I first started getting into wine, I fell hard for Australian stuff. Inexpensive, fun, reliable, yummy, it allowed me to explore different regions and grapes without a lot of effort or money. While my wine purchases have moved away from Australia over the years, I never outgrew my love for Australian wine.
And that’s thanks to producers like Wakefield, and many others, make wines that are much more than just fruit and alcohol. I’ve reviewed Wakefield wines before (check them out here and here), and this crop of new releases reinforces my respect for this producer.
The Taylor family kicked off their winery in 1969, after purchasing a 430-acre vineyard near the Wakefield River in the Clare Valley region. These wines are known as Taylor’s in Australia but, due to trademark restrictions, they’re labeled as Wakefield in the Northern Hemisphere.
The Clare Valley wines all come from the Taylor family estate, where vineyards at more than 1,100 feet above sea level vineyards get plenty of sun but receive the benefit if large diurnal temperature swings. The St. Andrews wines come from the estate fruit grown in their terra rossa soil, while the Jaraman wines are blended with fruit from other sites. For this report I also tasted two vintages apiece of Wakefield’s flagship Cabernet, the Visionary, and Shiraz, the Pioneer. They’re expensive, but so, so good.
I’ve also included four other Australian wines, from Jansz, Tyrell’s, Torbreck and Chambers.
All of these wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2017 Wakefield Chardonnay - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $17
Vibrant medium yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd, yellow apples and key lime pie, with sea spray, limestone and toasted nut notes. Plush but crisp acidity, deep and honeyed texture, with plenty of yellow apples, limes. Notes of salty minerals, ginger, cream and toasted bread, this is rich and flavorful but precise, with impressive depth and minerality. (88 points)
2016 Wakefield Chardonnay St Andrews - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $40
Medium yellow color. Nose shows lemon curd, a burst of limes and white peaches, along with saline, white flowers, chalk, and subtle almond and honey butter. On the palate, this is pristine and vibrant, medium-full-bodied with crisp acidity. I love the lemons, limes and white peaches, matched with hay, saline, dandelion, along with nougat and honey. A very pretty, vibrant, compelling Clare Valley Chardonnay. Aged 10 months in 80% new French oak. (91 points)
2016 Wakefield Chardonnay Jaraman Clare Valley/Adelaide Hills - Australia, South Australia
SRP: $25
Deep yellow color. Smells of lemon curd and orange marmalade, along with notes of honey, salted almond and freshly-baked biscuits. Plump texture but moderating acidity, along with plenty of apricot, bruised pear and apples. Notes of cinnamon, almond, sea salt and ginger snap add complexity. Richly flavorful but vibrant, too. This spends eight months in 60% new French oak. (88 points)
2017 Wakefield Riesling - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $17
Light yellow color. Lovely notes of peaches, limes, apricot, along with complex floral, honey and chalky notes. Crisp, dry and so zesty on the palate on a light/medium-bodied frame. Pleasantly plump peach meets zesty limes and green apples, and I get notes of crunchy sea salt, honeysuckle, floral perfume. Juicy and fruity but brisk and fresh, too. (87 points)
2017 Wakefield Merlot - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $17
Light purple color. Bright but juicy on the nose with sweet raspberries, red and black cherries, along with some violet petals, cola and coffee. Full but smooth with soft tannins and medium acidity. Juicy black cherries, tangy plums, raspberries, the fruit is juicy but fresh and mixed in with some coffee, violets and coffee. Smooth, easy-drinking, accessible, but well-made and vibrant. Aged in a mix of French and American oak, 10% new. (87 points)
2017 Wakefield Shiraz - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $17
Medium purple color. Aromas show sweet plums, blackberries and blueberries, with some eucalyptus, mint and violets. Full-bodied, smooth tannins, surprisingly fresh acidity. Crisp and juicy with blackberries, blueberries and black cherries, which fit well with the espresso, mint, dark chocolate, black pepper and vanilla tones. Delicious but vibrant, this has quite a bit of complexity at this price point. Aged 12 months in American oak. (88 points)
2013 Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon The Visionary - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $140
Dark purple color. Deep, wafting aromas of blackberries, boysenberry and blueberry, rich but crunchy, with mint, anise, wet earth, cedar forest, some vanilla and warm cocoa. Full-bodied with serious grip but the tannins show some velvetiness, too, and the acidity is great and the mouthfeel is lovely. Tart black cherries, black currants, plum skins, along with cocoa, anise, coffee, and complex tobacco, graphite, earth, forest floor. Beautiful, a fresher feel than the 2014, expressive in youth, although this can also age for quite some time. Aged 20 months in French oak. (93 points)
2014 Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon The Visionary - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $140
Rich purple color. Nose boasts tangy, concentrated currants, black cherries, blueberries, along with complex floral and earth tones, lots of clove and coffee and cinnamon sticks. Full and rich on the palate, but lively as well, with fine-grained tannins, moderating acidity, and plenty of tart black cherries, cassis, dark plums. Complex elements of violets, clove, bay leaf, earth, sweet vanilla and coffee. Serious time ahead for this one. Seems more structured and could use more cellar time than the 2013. Aged 20 months in French oak. (93 points)
2013 Wakefield Shiraz The Pioneer - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $140
Deep purple color. Aromatically, I get waves of deep, dark fruit (blackberries, blueberries, black cherries) and complex bursts of eucalyptus, black pepper, espresso, violets, anise. Big and full on the palate, built well with tannins but the edges are fine and the acidity here is really inviting and refreshing. Suave blackberry, blueberry, black currant, mixed with coffee, anise, dark chocolate, eucalyptus, with an earthy, peppery finish. Long time ahead but beautiful young. Aged 20 months in French oak. (93 points)
2014 Wakefield Shiraz The Pioneer - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley SRP: $140
Deep purple color. Gorgeous fruit, blackberries and blueberries, juicy and ripe, with espresso, pepper, anise and earth, but I get deep floral complexity here compared to the 2013. Plump, rich, yet velvety, acidity provides some nice balance to the bold blackberry and blueberry fruit. Complex elements of violets, clove, earth, anise, black tea, dark chocolate, and there are lots of savory, earthy tones as well. Velvety but vibrant, this has many years of lovely evolution ahead. Aged 20 months in French oak. (93 points)
N.V. Jansz Wine Company Premium Rosé Brut - Australia, Tasmania
SRP $29
Pale copper color. Super floral on the nose with roses, daisies and honeysuckle, along with plenty of red apple, pomegranate and lemon fruit, some chalky notes thrown in as well. Crisp, so tangy and focused on the palate, but it has the depth to balance it out. Red apples, raspberries, strawberries, crunchy red fruit mixes with musky cologne, white pepper, rose hips, chalk dust, slight biscuits. Crisp but some residual sugar, harmonious, gluggable but complex, too. Champagne method bubbles made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. (89 points)
2017 Tyrrell's Sémillon - Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley
SRP: $25
Medium straw color. Bursting aromas of lime, apricot, topped in sea salt, this is also highly floral with magnolia petals, honeysuckle and white ta. Light and brisk on the palate, this is fresh and accessible with a mix of lime, green melon, apricot and white peach. Notes of cut flower stems, honeysuckle and baby’s breath. Fun, summery and fresh, a light-on-its-feet appeal, but some nice complexity and depth. (88 points)
2017 Torbreck Shiraz Woodcutter's - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
SRP: $25
Medium purple color. Nose boasts blueberries and saucy black cherries, topped in pepper, barbecue sauce and smoke, some vanilla. Full but smooth on the palate, with chewy tannins and medium-low acidity. Delicious blueberries and blackberries, juicy and saucy, mixed with pepper, black olive brine, espresso, mint and sweet cocoa. Full, forward and smooth, but balanced and well-made stuff to drink over the next few years. All Shiraz, 15% alcohol. (88 points)
N.V. Chambers Rosewood Muscat - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
SRP: $16/375ml
Deep apricot, light brown color. Deep and inviting aromas of clover honey, graham cracker, crème brulee, orange marmalade. Rich and sweet on the palate with a velvety, creamy feel, but some medium acidity that keeps it from feeling too heavy. Flavors of apricot jam, orange marmalade, clove, graham cracker. Lovely depth and spice, a reliably delicious Aussie sticky. 17.7% alcohol, 233 grams/liter of residual sugar, this is aged solera style in old oak casks. (89 points)
This post first appears on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
And that’s thanks to producers like Wakefield, and many others, make wines that are much more than just fruit and alcohol. I’ve reviewed Wakefield wines before (check them out here and here), and this crop of new releases reinforces my respect for this producer.
The Taylor family kicked off their winery in 1969, after purchasing a 430-acre vineyard near the Wakefield River in the Clare Valley region. These wines are known as Taylor’s in Australia but, due to trademark restrictions, they’re labeled as Wakefield in the Northern Hemisphere.
The Clare Valley wines all come from the Taylor family estate, where vineyards at more than 1,100 feet above sea level vineyards get plenty of sun but receive the benefit if large diurnal temperature swings. The St. Andrews wines come from the estate fruit grown in their terra rossa soil, while the Jaraman wines are blended with fruit from other sites. For this report I also tasted two vintages apiece of Wakefield’s flagship Cabernet, the Visionary, and Shiraz, the Pioneer. They’re expensive, but so, so good.
I’ve also included four other Australian wines, from Jansz, Tyrell’s, Torbreck and Chambers.
All of these wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2017 Wakefield Chardonnay - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $17
Vibrant medium yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd, yellow apples and key lime pie, with sea spray, limestone and toasted nut notes. Plush but crisp acidity, deep and honeyed texture, with plenty of yellow apples, limes. Notes of salty minerals, ginger, cream and toasted bread, this is rich and flavorful but precise, with impressive depth and minerality. (88 points)
2016 Wakefield Chardonnay St Andrews - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $40
Medium yellow color. Nose shows lemon curd, a burst of limes and white peaches, along with saline, white flowers, chalk, and subtle almond and honey butter. On the palate, this is pristine and vibrant, medium-full-bodied with crisp acidity. I love the lemons, limes and white peaches, matched with hay, saline, dandelion, along with nougat and honey. A very pretty, vibrant, compelling Clare Valley Chardonnay. Aged 10 months in 80% new French oak. (91 points)
2016 Wakefield Chardonnay Jaraman Clare Valley/Adelaide Hills - Australia, South Australia
SRP: $25
Deep yellow color. Smells of lemon curd and orange marmalade, along with notes of honey, salted almond and freshly-baked biscuits. Plump texture but moderating acidity, along with plenty of apricot, bruised pear and apples. Notes of cinnamon, almond, sea salt and ginger snap add complexity. Richly flavorful but vibrant, too. This spends eight months in 60% new French oak. (88 points)
2017 Wakefield Riesling - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $17
Light yellow color. Lovely notes of peaches, limes, apricot, along with complex floral, honey and chalky notes. Crisp, dry and so zesty on the palate on a light/medium-bodied frame. Pleasantly plump peach meets zesty limes and green apples, and I get notes of crunchy sea salt, honeysuckle, floral perfume. Juicy and fruity but brisk and fresh, too. (87 points)
2017 Wakefield Merlot - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $17
Light purple color. Bright but juicy on the nose with sweet raspberries, red and black cherries, along with some violet petals, cola and coffee. Full but smooth with soft tannins and medium acidity. Juicy black cherries, tangy plums, raspberries, the fruit is juicy but fresh and mixed in with some coffee, violets and coffee. Smooth, easy-drinking, accessible, but well-made and vibrant. Aged in a mix of French and American oak, 10% new. (87 points)
2017 Wakefield Shiraz - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $17
Medium purple color. Aromas show sweet plums, blackberries and blueberries, with some eucalyptus, mint and violets. Full-bodied, smooth tannins, surprisingly fresh acidity. Crisp and juicy with blackberries, blueberries and black cherries, which fit well with the espresso, mint, dark chocolate, black pepper and vanilla tones. Delicious but vibrant, this has quite a bit of complexity at this price point. Aged 12 months in American oak. (88 points)
2013 Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon The Visionary - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $140
Dark purple color. Deep, wafting aromas of blackberries, boysenberry and blueberry, rich but crunchy, with mint, anise, wet earth, cedar forest, some vanilla and warm cocoa. Full-bodied with serious grip but the tannins show some velvetiness, too, and the acidity is great and the mouthfeel is lovely. Tart black cherries, black currants, plum skins, along with cocoa, anise, coffee, and complex tobacco, graphite, earth, forest floor. Beautiful, a fresher feel than the 2014, expressive in youth, although this can also age for quite some time. Aged 20 months in French oak. (93 points)
2014 Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon The Visionary - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $140
Rich purple color. Nose boasts tangy, concentrated currants, black cherries, blueberries, along with complex floral and earth tones, lots of clove and coffee and cinnamon sticks. Full and rich on the palate, but lively as well, with fine-grained tannins, moderating acidity, and plenty of tart black cherries, cassis, dark plums. Complex elements of violets, clove, bay leaf, earth, sweet vanilla and coffee. Serious time ahead for this one. Seems more structured and could use more cellar time than the 2013. Aged 20 months in French oak. (93 points)
2013 Wakefield Shiraz The Pioneer - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $140
Deep purple color. Aromatically, I get waves of deep, dark fruit (blackberries, blueberries, black cherries) and complex bursts of eucalyptus, black pepper, espresso, violets, anise. Big and full on the palate, built well with tannins but the edges are fine and the acidity here is really inviting and refreshing. Suave blackberry, blueberry, black currant, mixed with coffee, anise, dark chocolate, eucalyptus, with an earthy, peppery finish. Long time ahead but beautiful young. Aged 20 months in French oak. (93 points)
2014 Wakefield Shiraz The Pioneer - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley SRP: $140
Deep purple color. Gorgeous fruit, blackberries and blueberries, juicy and ripe, with espresso, pepper, anise and earth, but I get deep floral complexity here compared to the 2013. Plump, rich, yet velvety, acidity provides some nice balance to the bold blackberry and blueberry fruit. Complex elements of violets, clove, earth, anise, black tea, dark chocolate, and there are lots of savory, earthy tones as well. Velvety but vibrant, this has many years of lovely evolution ahead. Aged 20 months in French oak. (93 points)
N.V. Jansz Wine Company Premium Rosé Brut - Australia, Tasmania
SRP $29
Pale copper color. Super floral on the nose with roses, daisies and honeysuckle, along with plenty of red apple, pomegranate and lemon fruit, some chalky notes thrown in as well. Crisp, so tangy and focused on the palate, but it has the depth to balance it out. Red apples, raspberries, strawberries, crunchy red fruit mixes with musky cologne, white pepper, rose hips, chalk dust, slight biscuits. Crisp but some residual sugar, harmonious, gluggable but complex, too. Champagne method bubbles made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. (89 points)
2017 Tyrrell's Sémillon - Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley
SRP: $25
Medium straw color. Bursting aromas of lime, apricot, topped in sea salt, this is also highly floral with magnolia petals, honeysuckle and white ta. Light and brisk on the palate, this is fresh and accessible with a mix of lime, green melon, apricot and white peach. Notes of cut flower stems, honeysuckle and baby’s breath. Fun, summery and fresh, a light-on-its-feet appeal, but some nice complexity and depth. (88 points)
2017 Torbreck Shiraz Woodcutter's - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
SRP: $25
Medium purple color. Nose boasts blueberries and saucy black cherries, topped in pepper, barbecue sauce and smoke, some vanilla. Full but smooth on the palate, with chewy tannins and medium-low acidity. Delicious blueberries and blackberries, juicy and saucy, mixed with pepper, black olive brine, espresso, mint and sweet cocoa. Full, forward and smooth, but balanced and well-made stuff to drink over the next few years. All Shiraz, 15% alcohol. (88 points)
N.V. Chambers Rosewood Muscat - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
SRP: $16/375ml
Deep apricot, light brown color. Deep and inviting aromas of clover honey, graham cracker, crème brulee, orange marmalade. Rich and sweet on the palate with a velvety, creamy feel, but some medium acidity that keeps it from feeling too heavy. Flavors of apricot jam, orange marmalade, clove, graham cracker. Lovely depth and spice, a reliably delicious Aussie sticky. 17.7% alcohol, 233 grams/liter of residual sugar, this is aged solera style in old oak casks. (89 points)
This post first appears on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
Sunday, October 30, 2016
Australian Gems & Bargains: Two Hands & Hope Estate
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
This week I’m focusing on two Australian producers, Two Hands and Hope Estate.
Fronted by Michael Twelftree, with Ben Perkins as winemaker, Two Hands focuses on wines from McLaren Vale and Barossa, especially big, burly, seductive Shiraz. Since kicking off in 2000, Two Hands wines have received effusive praise from big wine publications and won spots on numerous Top 10 lists.
I’ve been interested in Two Hands wines since I was a legal purchaser of alcohol. Back then, I couldn't afford the wines, but I was obsessed with Australia and spent too much time drooling over tasting notes and high scores. Over the years, I’ve had the opportunity to taste a whole lot of Two Hands wines, from the massive flagship Ares Shiraz to the delightful and fun Brilliant Disguise Moscato. The wines are all expertly made and delicious. I can’t think of an outlier.
Hope Estate was new to me, although it’s been around since 1994, when proprietor Michael Hope purchased a property in Hunter Valley with about 30 acres of vines. The entire property is massive (about 250 acres), and it has been developed as a big Hunter Valley destination. It now boasts an amphitheater that can hold up to 20,000 guests, apparently big enough that The Boss himself (Broooce!) is playing there in 2017 — holy shit!
Hope Estate wines are moderately priced and crowd-pleasing, although they’re well-made and quite complex (even age-worthy) for their price points.
These wines were all received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2015 Two Hands Cabernet Sauvignon Sexy Beast - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
This week I’m focusing on two Australian producers, Two Hands and Hope Estate.
Fronted by Michael Twelftree, with Ben Perkins as winemaker, Two Hands focuses on wines from McLaren Vale and Barossa, especially big, burly, seductive Shiraz. Since kicking off in 2000, Two Hands wines have received effusive praise from big wine publications and won spots on numerous Top 10 lists.
I’ve been interested in Two Hands wines since I was a legal purchaser of alcohol. Back then, I couldn't afford the wines, but I was obsessed with Australia and spent too much time drooling over tasting notes and high scores. Over the years, I’ve had the opportunity to taste a whole lot of Two Hands wines, from the massive flagship Ares Shiraz to the delightful and fun Brilliant Disguise Moscato. The wines are all expertly made and delicious. I can’t think of an outlier.
Hope Estate was new to me, although it’s been around since 1994, when proprietor Michael Hope purchased a property in Hunter Valley with about 30 acres of vines. The entire property is massive (about 250 acres), and it has been developed as a big Hunter Valley destination. It now boasts an amphitheater that can hold up to 20,000 guests, apparently big enough that The Boss himself (Broooce!) is playing there in 2017 — holy shit!
Hope Estate wines are moderately priced and crowd-pleasing, although they’re well-made and quite complex (even age-worthy) for their price points.
These wines were all received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2015 Two Hands Cabernet Sauvignon Sexy Beast - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $36
Lively red currant color. Dark and saucy aromas of black cherry, blueberry, black currant, along with spiced tea, clove, menthol, vanilla bean and cedar. Full-bodied with fleshy tannins, this is such a velvety/rich mouthfeel but it goes down quite easily in spite of that. Juicy black cherry, black currant fruit mix with a hint of tart blueberry. Deep earthiness in this wine, like charcoal pit, tree bark, loamy soil, pine sap — the whole deal (but in a really tasty way). Lots of clove, coffee and dark chocolate notes as well. Lots of complexity in here but the deliciousness factor of the fruit is way up there. Tasty now, but this should get more luscious over the next three to four years. Aged in 15% new French oak. (89 points)
Lively red currant color. Dark and saucy aromas of black cherry, blueberry, black currant, along with spiced tea, clove, menthol, vanilla bean and cedar. Full-bodied with fleshy tannins, this is such a velvety/rich mouthfeel but it goes down quite easily in spite of that. Juicy black cherry, black currant fruit mix with a hint of tart blueberry. Deep earthiness in this wine, like charcoal pit, tree bark, loamy soil, pine sap — the whole deal (but in a really tasty way). Lots of clove, coffee and dark chocolate notes as well. Lots of complexity in here but the deliciousness factor of the fruit is way up there. Tasty now, but this should get more luscious over the next three to four years. Aged in 15% new French oak. (89 points)
SRP: $36
Deep purple color. Smoky, earthy, savory notes on the nose (pepper, barbecue sauce, scorched earth) on top of gobs of black cherry and blackberry fruit, add in some sweet cola and vanilla. Full-bodied with structured but velvety tannins – some medium acidity helps. Black cherry, blueberry, blackberry jam, the fruit is rich and loaded but not baked. Lots of pepper, soy, scorched earth notes to bounce off the dark roast coffee, roasted chestnut, cinnamon sticks and clove notes. Rich and generous but complex and very interesting. Curious to see how this ages of four or five years. Aged in 6% new French oak and the rest old French and American oak. (90 points)
Deep purple color. Smoky, earthy, savory notes on the nose (pepper, barbecue sauce, scorched earth) on top of gobs of black cherry and blackberry fruit, add in some sweet cola and vanilla. Full-bodied with structured but velvety tannins – some medium acidity helps. Black cherry, blueberry, blackberry jam, the fruit is rich and loaded but not baked. Lots of pepper, soy, scorched earth notes to bounce off the dark roast coffee, roasted chestnut, cinnamon sticks and clove notes. Rich and generous but complex and very interesting. Curious to see how this ages of four or five years. Aged in 6% new French oak and the rest old French and American oak. (90 points)
SRP: $36
Deep purple color. Smells dark and juicy with blackberries, plums and roasted figs along with smoky bacon, beef brisket and pepper. Medium-plus-bodied (13.5% alcohol) with rounded edges on the tannins and some freshness from the acidity. Plums, blackberries and blueberries, the fruit is ripe but stays tart. Notes of smoke, graphite, earth, clove and sweet coffee add complexity. Pretty, bold but vibrant as well, a bit more freshness than the Angel's Share Shiraz. Aged 12 months in 15% new French oak. (90 points)
Deep purple color. Smells dark and juicy with blackberries, plums and roasted figs along with smoky bacon, beef brisket and pepper. Medium-plus-bodied (13.5% alcohol) with rounded edges on the tannins and some freshness from the acidity. Plums, blackberries and blueberries, the fruit is ripe but stays tart. Notes of smoke, graphite, earth, clove and sweet coffee add complexity. Pretty, bold but vibrant as well, a bit more freshness than the Angel's Share Shiraz. Aged 12 months in 15% new French oak. (90 points)
SRP: $69
Medium purple color. Aromatically rich but air and time coaxes out all sorts of nuance. Black cherry and blueberry fruit is lush and juicy, topped in notes of mint, dark chocolate, deep violets, potting soil, coffee and fruit cake. Obviously full-bodied, the tannins frame the wine nicely but the mouthfeel is velvety, medium-low acidity. Mouthfeel is absolutely gorgeous. Black cherry, blueberry sauce and plum cake, dark but suave fruit, backed up by notes of roasted chestnut, campfire pit, but also some lovely violet, rich earth and roasted herb notes. I get this really cool mix of beef bouillon and black pepper. Dark and bold and age-worthy but full of life and pretty elements, even at this young age. Aged 18 months in 6% new French oak. (93 points)
Medium purple color. Aromatically rich but air and time coaxes out all sorts of nuance. Black cherry and blueberry fruit is lush and juicy, topped in notes of mint, dark chocolate, deep violets, potting soil, coffee and fruit cake. Obviously full-bodied, the tannins frame the wine nicely but the mouthfeel is velvety, medium-low acidity. Mouthfeel is absolutely gorgeous. Black cherry, blueberry sauce and plum cake, dark but suave fruit, backed up by notes of roasted chestnut, campfire pit, but also some lovely violet, rich earth and roasted herb notes. I get this really cool mix of beef bouillon and black pepper. Dark and bold and age-worthy but full of life and pretty elements, even at this young age. Aged 18 months in 6% new French oak. (93 points)
SRP: $69
Medium purple color. Lots of inky fruit on the nose (blueberry, boysenberry, black cherry), needs more time to open up but shows roasted coffee, loamy soil, dark chocolate and graphite. Mouth-filling texture, still velvety tannins but a bit chewier than Lilly’s Garden, medium-low acidity. Black cherry and dark, concentrated blueberry extract coats the palate. Scorched earth, coffee, dark chocolate, pencil shavings, loads of complex elements, and underneath there’s a delicious black olive streak needs time to come out. This will get far more nuanced with five to six years and continue to be delicious for longer. Aged 18 months in French oak (16% new). (91 points)
Medium purple color. Lots of inky fruit on the nose (blueberry, boysenberry, black cherry), needs more time to open up but shows roasted coffee, loamy soil, dark chocolate and graphite. Mouth-filling texture, still velvety tannins but a bit chewier than Lilly’s Garden, medium-low acidity. Black cherry and dark, concentrated blueberry extract coats the palate. Scorched earth, coffee, dark chocolate, pencil shavings, loads of complex elements, and underneath there’s a delicious black olive streak needs time to come out. This will get far more nuanced with five to six years and continue to be delicious for longer. Aged 18 months in French oak (16% new). (91 points)
SRP: $185
Gorgeous, vibrant purple color. The purity and complexity of fruit aromas is really astounding: boysenberry, blueberry, black cherry, juicy summer plums, the fruit is so vibrant, but it’s mixed in with waves of coffee, sweet violets, sarsaparilla, mint, dark chocolate. Full-bodied on the palate, serious grip to the tannins, the acidity is a bit low for my liking but it still holds it together. This is a velvety, voluptuous wines that coats the palate without feeling too heavy (despite the 15.5% alcohol). Same complexity of juicy blue and black fruit abounds on the palate. Gorgeous fruit! Notes of anise, coffee, mint, violets, loamy soil, graphite, dark chocolate shavings — so much complexity to unpack here over the next decade but this is a beautiful young Ares. Aged 23 months in French oak (last year in all new). (94+ points)
Gorgeous, vibrant purple color. The purity and complexity of fruit aromas is really astounding: boysenberry, blueberry, black cherry, juicy summer plums, the fruit is so vibrant, but it’s mixed in with waves of coffee, sweet violets, sarsaparilla, mint, dark chocolate. Full-bodied on the palate, serious grip to the tannins, the acidity is a bit low for my liking but it still holds it together. This is a velvety, voluptuous wines that coats the palate without feeling too heavy (despite the 15.5% alcohol). Same complexity of juicy blue and black fruit abounds on the palate. Gorgeous fruit! Notes of anise, coffee, mint, violets, loamy soil, graphite, dark chocolate shavings — so much complexity to unpack here over the next decade but this is a beautiful young Ares. Aged 23 months in French oak (last year in all new). (94+ points)
SRP: $14
Pale lemon color. Aromas of juicy peaches, nectarines, candied lime, hints of salted almond and honeysuckle. Light-bodied (11.5% alcohol) with zesty acidity, this is a bright and lip-smacking wine. Tangy limes, apricots, zesty and tart but interesting with its perfumed, honeyed notes. Lingering minerality and salinity on the finish. Delicious now but I’m curious to see how this ages. (87 points)
Pale lemon color. Aromas of juicy peaches, nectarines, candied lime, hints of salted almond and honeysuckle. Light-bodied (11.5% alcohol) with zesty acidity, this is a bright and lip-smacking wine. Tangy limes, apricots, zesty and tart but interesting with its perfumed, honeyed notes. Lingering minerality and salinity on the finish. Delicious now but I’m curious to see how this ages. (87 points)
SRP: $14
Medium yellow color. Aromas of juicy yellow apples blend with honey, almond, some brighter floral tones. Plump and juicy texture on the palate but fresh acidity. White peach, baked apple, almond paste, toasted bread, honey, a lot of delicious flavors but the wine maintains an impressive amount of vibrancy and balance. This has a lot to offer for people all over the Chardonnay palate spectrum. (87 points)
Medium yellow color. Aromas of juicy yellow apples blend with honey, almond, some brighter floral tones. Plump and juicy texture on the palate but fresh acidity. White peach, baked apple, almond paste, toasted bread, honey, a lot of delicious flavors but the wine maintains an impressive amount of vibrancy and balance. This has a lot to offer for people all over the Chardonnay palate spectrum. (87 points)
SRP: $18
Juicy purple color. Aromas of smoky blackberry and dark currants, spicy peppered steak, and sweet clove and vanilla. On the palate, this is full-bodied with moderate tannins and medium/low acidity. Tart blackberries and blueberry fruit plays well with savory spice and peppered jerky notes, along with some toast and vanilla. Really good stuff if you like some pepper and meat in your Shiraz. Easy-drinking and pleasurable but shows some guts and near-term aging potential. Aged 12-15 months in French and American oak. This wine comes from a site in West Oz purchased in 2000. (88 points)
Juicy purple color. Aromas of smoky blackberry and dark currants, spicy peppered steak, and sweet clove and vanilla. On the palate, this is full-bodied with moderate tannins and medium/low acidity. Tart blackberries and blueberry fruit plays well with savory spice and peppered jerky notes, along with some toast and vanilla. Really good stuff if you like some pepper and meat in your Shiraz. Easy-drinking and pleasurable but shows some guts and near-term aging potential. Aged 12-15 months in French and American oak. This wine comes from a site in West Oz purchased in 2000. (88 points)
SRP: $15
Deep purple color. Aromas of smoky black cherries and roasted plums, along with charcoal, grilled herbs and leather notes. Medium-bodied with silky and approachable tannins and medium acid. Flavors of tart blueberry and roasted plum mix nicely with leather and charcoal notes. Rounded out with some wood and vanilla. A tasty, crowd-pleasing, near-term drinker. Aged in new and used French oak for 13 months. (86 points)
Deep purple color. Aromas of smoky black cherries and roasted plums, along with charcoal, grilled herbs and leather notes. Medium-bodied with silky and approachable tannins and medium acid. Flavors of tart blueberry and roasted plum mix nicely with leather and charcoal notes. Rounded out with some wood and vanilla. A tasty, crowd-pleasing, near-term drinker. Aged in new and used French oak for 13 months. (86 points)
Saturday, October 15, 2016
Picture Series Wines Provide Great Intro to Australia's Two Hands
Over the years, I’ve had the opportunity to taste a whole lot of Two Hands wines, from a decade-old Ares Shiraz (their flagship bottling) to the delightful and fun Brilliant Disguise Moscato. The wines are all expertly made and delicious. I can’t think of an outlier.
This month, I’m tasting through a half-dozen Two Hands wines through Protocol's #winestudio, a Twitter-based wine education program run by Tina Morey. This was my first foray into this program, and it’s fitting that we’re focused on such a reputable producer.
Founders Michael Twelftree and Richard Mintz kicked off the project in 1999 as a negociant firm, purchasing quality grapes from select sites around South Australia. Their first vintage was 2000. Since then, Two Hands has purchased its own vineyards and producers a wide array of wines. They’re a perennial competitor in the all sorts of Top Ten lists from major wine publications. Even among people who don’t generally like Australian wine, Two Hands is revered.
We started off tasting three wines from Two Hands' Picture Series along with winemaker Ben Perkins. "For many, the Picture Series is the introduction to Two Hands, so our first mission is to over deliver on quality," Two Hands says on its website. "The winemaking technique and effort that goes into making a Gnarly Dudes or Angels’ Share is no different to the higher tiers of the portfolio, so these are still serious wines, with a focus on purity of fruit and sensory pleasure."
The wines feature playful names and stylish vintage photograph labels. And, considering the popularity of this producer, these wines come with relatively accessible price points.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2015 Two Hands Cabernet Sauvignon Sexy Beast - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $36
Lively red currant color. Dark and saucy aromas of black cherry, blueberry, black currant, along with spiced tea, clove, menthol, vanilla bean and cedar. Full-bodied with fleshy tannins, this is such a velvety/rich mouthfeel but it goes down quite easily in spite of that. Juicy black cherry, black currant fruit mix with a hint of tart blueberry. Deep earthiness in this wine, like charcoal pit, tree bark, loamy soil, pine sap — the whole deal (but in a really tasty way). Lots of clove, coffee and dark chocolate notes as well. Lots of complexity in here but the deliciousness factor of the fruit is way up there. Tasty now, but this should get more luscious over the next three to four years. Aged in 15% new French oak. (89 points)
2014 Two Hands Shiraz Angels Share - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $36
Deep purple color. Smoky, earthy, savory notes on the nose (pepper, barbecue sauce, scorched earth) on top of gobs of black cherry and blackberry fruit, add in some sweet cola and vanilla. Full-bodied with structured but velvety tannins – some medium acidity helps. Black cherry, blueberry, blackberry jam, the fruit is rich and loaded but not baked. Lots of pepper, soy, scorched earth notes to bounce off the dark roast coffee, roasted chestnut, cinnamon sticks and clove notes. Rich and generous but complex and very interesting. Curious to see how this ages of four or five years. Aged in 6% new French oak and the rest old French and American oak. (90 points)
2014 Two Hands Shiraz Gnarly Dudes - Australia, South Australia, Barossa Valley
SRP: $36
Deep purple color. Smells dark and juicy with blackberries, plums and roasted figs along with smoky bacon, beef brisket and pepper. Medium-plus-bodied (13.5% alcohol) with rounded edges on the tannins and some freshness from the acidity. Plums, blackberries and blueberries, the fruit is ripe but stays tart. Notes of smoke, graphite, earth, clove and sweet coffee add complexity. Pretty, bold but vibrant as well, a bit more freshness than the Angel's Share Shiraz. Aged 12 months in 15% new French oak. (90 points)
Friday, June 24, 2016
Bold but Beautiful Barossa Wines from Hentley Farm
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
Hentley Farm is a relatively new player in the Barossa Valley (considering this region's long and rich history), but they are producing some stellar wines. In the 1990s, founders Keith and Alison Hentschke purchased their 150-acre vineyard in the Seppeltsfield area. Their first Hentley Farm wines debuted in 2002. Two years later, they purchased the adjacent Clos Otto block, which is now the source of their high-end Shiraz.
Hentley Farm is a relatively new player in the Barossa Valley (considering this region's long and rich history), but they are producing some stellar wines. In the 1990s, founders Keith and Alison Hentschke purchased their 150-acre vineyard in the Seppeltsfield area. Their first Hentley Farm wines debuted in 2002. Two years later, they purchased the adjacent Clos Otto block, which is now the source of their high-end Shiraz.
Their wines display the classic Barossa depth and
concentration, but I was surprised at the vibrancy and freshness of some of
these wines. While the Clos Otto is truly a stunner of a wine (with a price tag
to match) the relative value of the other Hentley Farm Shiraz offerings is very
impressive.
The wines are crafted by Andrew Quin, a horticulturist
turned winemaker who worked with St. Francis in Sonoma and Jacques Lurton in
Bordeaux before returning to make wine in his native Australia.
These wines were received as trade samples and
tasted sighted.
 |
| Hentley Farm's estate vineyards are located in the red loam soils of Barossa Valley, South Australia. Credit: Hentley Farm |
2015 Hentley Farm Riesling - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley
SRP:
$22
Lemon-lime
color. Vibrant aromatic of sliced limes and white peaches, mixed in with
honeysuckle, crushed chalk and new tennis balls. Precise acidity frames the
wine, this is laser-like in its focus but generous in its mouthfeel and fruit
(lime, white peach, honeydew, lychee). I get a lot of oil, chalk, minerals and
honeysuckle as well, along with a flinty, smashed rock element that lights up
the finish. Very pretty stuff, dry and bracing but plenty of flavor and
significant power that will enable this to stand some cellar time. The fruit
comes from two blocks planted in the late 70s and early 80s in gray sandy loam
and granite. (89 points)
2015 Hentley Farm Rosé - Australia, South Australia,
Barossa, Barossa Valley
SRP: $20
Gorgeous strawberry/watermelon color. Bright and fresh but tons of fruit (strawberry, watermelon, red apple peel) along with a lovely spiced tea and rose hip essence. Medium+ bodied, this is ripe and velvety but the acidity stays tart and fresh. More watermelon and tart strawberry, with some candied apple peel. I also get some white peppery spice, crushed shells and floral perfume. A fuller style but still so bright and refreshing. Grenache and Syrah. (88 points)
SRP: $20
Gorgeous strawberry/watermelon color. Bright and fresh but tons of fruit (strawberry, watermelon, red apple peel) along with a lovely spiced tea and rose hip essence. Medium+ bodied, this is ripe and velvety but the acidity stays tart and fresh. More watermelon and tart strawberry, with some candied apple peel. I also get some white peppery spice, crushed shells and floral perfume. A fuller style but still so bright and refreshing. Grenache and Syrah. (88 points)
2015 Hentley Farm Shiraz - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
SRP:
$28
Bright purple color. The aromas are rich and dark,
with blackberries, plums and black cherries, along with violets, clay and some
mocha. Full-bodied and saucy but pleasant, this shows smooth but structured
tannins, which are balanced by moderate acid that keeps the wine from being
heavy. Flavors of juicy black cherries and blackberries mix with elements of
fallen leaves, sweet eucalyptus, vanilla and hints of pepper and earth. Big but
suave, this is drinking nicely now but could be tamed in the cellar for a few
years for sure. Aged
10 months in 15% new French oak Sourced from seven blocks in estate vineyards
at Seppeltsfield. (88 points)
2014 Hentley Farm Cabernet Sauvignon - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
SRP:
$28
Deep currant, purple color. Smells of fresh black
currants and cherries, a lovely earth and savory herbal characteristic along
with some coffee grounds. Full but silky with structured but fine tannins and
some fresh acidity that keeps it in check. Juicy black cherries, cassis, the
fruit has a tart and fresh edge. Notes of rose petals, bay leaf and clove, the
toast and coffee elements are subtle and woven in well. Quite pretty now but I
could see holding this for three or four years at least. (87 points)
2015 Hentley Farm The Stray Mongrel - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
SRP:
$28
Vibrant ruby color. I love these spicy, smoky, meaty
notes that mix in with all sorts of red fruit (from tart strawberry to
raspberry jam) — lots going on but the aromas are nuanced. Full-bodied but so
vibrant with fine tannins and bright acidity, which keeps the wine fresh and
forward. Jammy raspberries and strawberries mix with some roasted plum
elements, the fruit is blended with earth, white pepper, green herbs and a
streak of smoky-bacony goodness. Delicious now, but could open up in the
cellar. Loving the vibrancy of this wine despite the 14.7% alcohol. A blend of
Grenache, Shiraz and Zinfandel. (89 points)
 | |||
| The Beauty, The Beast & Clos Ott - a stunning Shiraz trio. |
2013 Hentley Farm Shiraz The Beauty - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
SRP: $60
Dark purple color. Needs a bit of air to show the
full spectrum of its rich, dark fruit (blueberry, boysenberry, black cherry). I
also get some violets, sweet pipe tobacco, black pepper and eucalyptus. A saucy
but well-structured wine with sturdy tannins. I'm really surprised by the
acidity, which cleans the wine up on the palate and keeps me wanting more.
Gorgeous and pure fruit, tart but full, rich but silky, pretty much all the
black and blue fruit you can imagine. Accents of pepper, soy, eucalyptus add
complexity, and there's a fresh sense of rocky soil minerality as well. The
vanilla, coffee and toast are integrated well. Gorgeous. I love it's
youthfulness but this is definitely a candidate for five-to-eight years in the
cellar. This spends 14 months in 40% new French oak. (92 points)
2012 Hentley Farm Shiraz The Beast - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
SRP:
$85
Dense purple color. Bold aromas of saucy but tart
black and blue fruit (blackberry, blueberry and tart black cherries). I get a
lot of smoke, scorched earth, charcoal notes, which weave together with
graphite, soy and eucalyptus. Full-bodied (of course, as the name and
appellation suggest) but this wine has velvety tannins and some moderating
acidity that keeps this beast of a wine tamed. The blackberry, blueberry and
boysenberry fruit is pure, lively, ripe and tart. Such purity and vibrancy in
this fruit, it’s straight up delicious, too. Loads of smoke, loamy soil,
coffee, dark chocolate mixed in with notes of eucalyptus, white pepper, soy and
cedar. Long, warm finish. A beast of a wine, sure, but beautiful as well as
will get even more so with five or seven years in the cellar. (93 points)
2012 Hentley Farm Shiraz Clos Otto - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
SRP:
$165
Deep purple color. The aromas unravel to show saucy
plums, berry compote, blueberry and currant jams, but the non-fruit
complexities packed in here are really impressive: smoked meat, cracked pepper,
charcoal, clove, dark roast coffee, vanilla. This is a deep and bold wine that
needs time or a good decant to show its full aromatic potential. Full and
velvety on the palate, this has some refreshing and surprising acidity and some
sturdy tannins, so the structure is wonderful. Flavors of plum cake,
boysenberry, blueberry and currant compote, the fruit is big but also pure,
even elegant. Black olive, pepper, charcoal, earth, coffee and ginger snap
cookie add all sorts of complexity. With time, more and more earth and spice
flavors come out. Needs four-to-five years at least, but this is a beauty. From
a low-yielding, east-facing, red clay block in the estate. (94 points)
Wednesday, May 4, 2016
Wakefield: Delicious Aussie Wines at Range of Price Points
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
The Taylor family kicked off their winery in 1969, after scoring a 430-acre vineyard near the Wakefield River in Southern Australia’s Clare Valley region. These wines are known as Taylor’s in Australia but, due to trademark restrictions, they’re labeled as Wakefield in the Northern Hemisphere.At more than 1,100 feet above sea level, the Taylor vineyards get plenty of sun but receive the benefit if large diurnal temperature swings. The resulting wines are rich in flavor but structured and vibrant. The St. Andrews wines come from the estate fruit grown in their terra rossa soil, while the Jaraman wines are blended with fruit from other sites. Wakefield also produces two stunning high-end wines, the Pioneer Shiraz and Visionary Cabernet, from the best plots in their vineyards. (I reviewed these wines in November 2015. Spoiler: they are amazing.)
Today, the Taylor’s/Wakefield winemaking team is composed of Mitchell Taylor (Managing Director), Adam Eggins (Chief Winemaker), and winemakers Chad Bowman (who joined in 2003) and Phillip Reschke (who joined in 2013).
I received these wines as trade samples and tasted them sighted.
2014 Wakefield Riesling St Andrews – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $40
Pale straw color. Smells of sliced limes, white peach, nectarine, floral perfume and a complex mix of chalk and dusty minerality. Crisp and lively on the palate but some waxy texture adds depth. Green apple, kiwi, orange rind, lime, the fruit is pure and driven. This Riesling possesses a deep sense of minerals, mountain stream, smashed rocks and chalk. So clean, zesty and vibrant. A gorgeous Clare Valley Riesling. (91 points IJB)
2014 Wakefield Chardonnay Jaraman – Australia
SRP: $25
Medium gold color. Bold aromatics of apricot and baked yellow apples, topped with chopped nuts, honey, white tea and a hint of chalk. Creamy texture on the palate, but balanced out a bit by moderate acidity. Fresh apricot and yellow apple fruit mix with notes of cinnamon, clove and nougat, but the French oak elements are woven in well. Some white flower and chalk flavors as well. Fun, juicy, toasty stuff but the freshness keeps this interesting. 55% of the fruit comes from Clare Valley while 45% comes from Margaret River. (87 points)
2012 Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon Jaraman – Australia, South Australia, Clare Valley – Coonawarra
SRP: $30
Saucy purple color. Gorgeous blueberry, dark currants and plums, along with smoke, some dark earth, clove and black pepper. Full and saucy with chewy tannins and some surprising moderate acidity. Blackberry and blueberry jam, the fruit is bold but smooth. Some smoky, peppery, savory spice to accent the richer elements of cedar, vanilla and cola. Chewy and rich but maintains some freshness and some nuanced non-fruit elements. I’d like to see this in three or four years. Most of the fruit comes from Clare Valley, but 28% comes from Coonawarra. (89 points)
Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon St Andrews – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $60
Bright purple color. Rich but tart black and red currants, some exotic eucalyptus, violets and complex spice tones add an attractive sense of warmth. The currant and plum fruit is tart, crunchy but fully ripe, and the wine glides across the palate despite the firm tannic structure, and I get some freshness from the acidity that makes this wine so pleasant to drink young. Earth, eucalyptus, clove, coffee, well-integrated amounts of cedar and vanilla. Long, full but elegant, accessible young but I’d love to lay this down for five or six years and revisit it. Wow, this is a very pretty wine. If you’re looking for a more nuanced and elegant Cabernet, check out Clare Valley, and this wine in particular. Aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (91 points)
2014 Wakefield Shiraz Jaraman – Australia, South Australia
SRP: $30
Rich purple color. Dark and saucy aromas, like fig paste, plum skin, some blueberry jam, some vanilla coffee and sweet oak. Chewy but maintains a velvety feel from the tannins, medium acidity helps ton down the loud fruit (black cherry, blackberry, blueberry). I get notes of vanilla, cola, eucalyptus, roasted red pepper, and sweet black olive. Mouthfilling but stays relatively smooth and fresh. 55% of the fruit comes from Clare Valley and 45% comes from McLaren Vale, aged in American oak barrels. (87 points)
2013 Wakefield Shiraz St Andrews – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $60
Deep purple color. Concentrated aromas, but vigorous swirling coaxes out blackberry, blueberry and rich plum fruit, along with dusty-loamy soil, coffee grounds, violets, graphite and cedar. A gorgeous mouthfeel on the palate with refined tannins, moderate acid and silky-rich fruit. The blackberry, plum and blueberry fruit is full but refreshing. I get spiced coffee, clove, eucalyptus, fallen leaves, black olives and pepper glaze. Complex and full of flavor, but a gliding mouthfeel keeps it smooth. Drink now with a very good decant or hold for three to six years at least. Aged 20 months in American oak. (91+ points)
Saturday, February 2, 2013
Tasting Report: New World Syrah and Blends
Syrah has always been one of my favorite grapes. It can stand on its own in a 100% wine, but it makes a great addition to blends of grenache and mourvedre as well (a la Chateauneuf-du-Pape). In conjunction with my friends at the daily wine blog Terroirist, I recently blind tasted my way through some New World syrahs and red blends that contain at least some syrah. While most of them hail from California, there are two Aussies and a Washington State syrah thrown into the mix as well.
All wines were received as press samples and tasted blind.
2010 Peter Lehmann Layers - Australia, South Australia, Barossa
SRP: $17. Took some significant swirling to get the aromas going, then out came blackberry, roasted coffee and charcoal. Medium tannins, medium-to-low acid on the palate. The black cherry fruit tastes a bit baked and the roasted coffee and toasted oak overwhelm any nuanced flavors. A bit of pepper carries onto the finish, which is quite short. Overall, a mediocre attempt. I don't understand the Wine Spectator's 90 point score. A blend of 54% shiraz, 19% tempranillo, 17% mourvedre and 10% grenache. (78 points)
SRP: $17. Took some significant swirling to get the aromas going, then out came blackberry, roasted coffee and charcoal. Medium tannins, medium-to-low acid on the palate. The black cherry fruit tastes a bit baked and the roasted coffee and toasted oak overwhelm any nuanced flavors. A bit of pepper carries onto the finish, which is quite short. Overall, a mediocre attempt. I don't understand the Wine Spectator's 90 point score. A blend of 54% shiraz, 19% tempranillo, 17% mourvedre and 10% grenache. (78 points)
2010 Pyren Shiraz Broken Quartz - Australia, Victoria, Pyrenees
SRP: Unknown. Aromatically, this is dark and brooding, with fig, prune juice and boysenberry. Medium tannins, evident alcohol and a whole lot of toast on the palate. There’s a tangy, sour cherry aspect to the darker, more extracted fruit. Despite the alcohol and the toast, the midpalate lacks depth and secondary flavors. Juicy cherries and oak stave flavors linger on the finish. (81 points)
SRP: Unknown. Aromatically, this is dark and brooding, with fig, prune juice and boysenberry. Medium tannins, evident alcohol and a whole lot of toast on the palate. There’s a tangy, sour cherry aspect to the darker, more extracted fruit. Despite the alcohol and the toast, the midpalate lacks depth and secondary flavors. Juicy cherries and oak stave flavors linger on the finish. (81 points)
2011 Cline Cellars Cashmere - USA, California
SRP: $17. Very bright and sweet on the nose, dominated by fresh berry fruit, a whole lot of rose petals and a hint of sage. Clearly new world sweet red fruit, but the other aspects make the nose interesting. Palate: really silky tannins, medium acid and the fruit is plush. The mixed berry fruit is really delicious and fresh, and it finishes with a soft note of toasted oak. It seems like more of a drink-me-now wine than the others, a real crowd-pleaser, but a well-made wine. A blend of mourvèdre, grenache and syrah. (86 points)
SRP: $17. Very bright and sweet on the nose, dominated by fresh berry fruit, a whole lot of rose petals and a hint of sage. Clearly new world sweet red fruit, but the other aspects make the nose interesting. Palate: really silky tannins, medium acid and the fruit is plush. The mixed berry fruit is really delicious and fresh, and it finishes with a soft note of toasted oak. It seems like more of a drink-me-now wine than the others, a real crowd-pleaser, but a well-made wine. A blend of mourvèdre, grenache and syrah. (86 points)
2010 Hooker Wines Syrah Home Pitch Betsy's Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $24. In addition to sweet raspberry and red plum fruit, this wine shows serious Old World aromas like peppered steak, loam and graphite. Very interesting nose right out of the bottle, but more black olive came out over the course of fifteen minutes or so. Full-bodied with grippy tannins and medium acid. The raspberry and red plum fruit tastes sweet, but not too much because it’s combined with savory mushroom and black olive flavors. Hints of oak shine through but in a restrained fashion. Long and plush on the finish. Everything’s in the right place with this wine. I’d like to see how this syrah shows three years from now. (90 points)
SRP: $24. In addition to sweet raspberry and red plum fruit, this wine shows serious Old World aromas like peppered steak, loam and graphite. Very interesting nose right out of the bottle, but more black olive came out over the course of fifteen minutes or so. Full-bodied with grippy tannins and medium acid. The raspberry and red plum fruit tastes sweet, but not too much because it’s combined with savory mushroom and black olive flavors. Hints of oak shine through but in a restrained fashion. Long and plush on the finish. Everything’s in the right place with this wine. I’d like to see how this syrah shows three years from now. (90 points)
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| Saxon Brown's syrahs show rich California fruit backed up by firm tannins and lots of earthy flavors. |
SRP: $34. Tight aromas, but with time more and more brown sugar came out, also some brandied plums, chocolate, toast, hints of grilled meat. On the palate: fine-grained tannins and dense fruit come together in this inky wine, luckily there’s enough acid to keep it fresh. The cool blueberry and raspberry fruit combine with a hint of pepper, notes of toast and dark chocolate and charcoal. The finish is long and crisp, and I even get a hint of mineral, almost a limestone flavor. This is a really focused wine that seems like it would benefit from a few years in the cellar, but it’s putting on one hell of a fight tonight. (91 points)
2007 Saxon-Brown Syrah Flora Ranch - USA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $34. Aromas of roasted coffee, blackberry jam, loam and tilled soil. This wine really coats the palate with dry tannins and dense, almost glycerin-like blackberry fruit. A little low on the acid perhaps. Dark chocolate, sweet barbeque sauce and chocolate last long on the finish. This is a really dark syrah and it could probably use a long decant (both for aeration and because this bottle threw some significant sediment). Another year or two in the cellar will likely do a lot for this budding syrah. (90 points)
SRP: $34. Aromas of roasted coffee, blackberry jam, loam and tilled soil. This wine really coats the palate with dry tannins and dense, almost glycerin-like blackberry fruit. A little low on the acid perhaps. Dark chocolate, sweet barbeque sauce and chocolate last long on the finish. This is a really dark syrah and it could probably use a long decant (both for aeration and because this bottle threw some significant sediment). Another year or two in the cellar will likely do a lot for this budding syrah. (90 points)
2009 Curtis Syrah Crossroads Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $32. Aromas of plum, cocoa, blackberries, a hint of green olive. Dusty tannins and a nice dose of acid on the palate, with sour cherry, red plums, chocolate and nuanced oak. Rich, but not jammy, with a nice kick of pepper and a meat on the finish. (87 points)
SRP: $32. Aromas of plum, cocoa, blackberries, a hint of green olive. Dusty tannins and a nice dose of acid on the palate, with sour cherry, red plums, chocolate and nuanced oak. Rich, but not jammy, with a nice kick of pepper and a meat on the finish. (87 points)
2009 Curtis Syrah - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $25. Complex, fruit-forward aromas of figs, raspberries and even a hint of passion fruit. Full and grippy on the palate with refreshing acid and gritty, young tannins. The wild raspberry and fig paste flavors mix well with the earth and cedar notes. This seems quite solid, well-structured and deserving of some time to evolve. (88 points)
SRP: $25. Complex, fruit-forward aromas of figs, raspberries and even a hint of passion fruit. Full and grippy on the palate with refreshing acid and gritty, young tannins. The wild raspberry and fig paste flavors mix well with the earth and cedar notes. This seems quite solid, well-structured and deserving of some time to evolve. (88 points)
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| This red blend from Curtis drinks incredibly well for its $14 price tag. |
SRP: $14. Bright raspberry and plums on the nose, and the lavender and incense notes make this a joy to sniff. A burst of crushed raspberry and red cherry fruit kicks off the palate, followed up with fine tannins and noticeable acid. Solid depth and intensity of flavors. Notes of coffee and loam are accented by a touch of creamy oak. A flavor that reminds me of an herb-crusted steak carries the finish, and it’s just lovely. Very juicy, yet well-structured. A blend of 39% grenache, 26% mourvedre, 19% cinsault and 16% syrah. (88 points)
2010 JL Giguiere Matchbook Dunnigan Hills - USA, California, Central Valley, Dunnigan Hills
SRP: $16. Very bright on the nose, with maraschino cherries, candied plums and sweet red flowers. Jammy and spicy on the palate, with a good amount of acid. Flavors of sour cherry, cola and peppery spice dominate. I like the crisp, oak-minimal approach to this wine. A blend of 90% syrah and 10% cabernet sauvignon. (87 points)
SRP: $16. Very bright on the nose, with maraschino cherries, candied plums and sweet red flowers. Jammy and spicy on the palate, with a good amount of acid. Flavors of sour cherry, cola and peppery spice dominate. I like the crisp, oak-minimal approach to this wine. A blend of 90% syrah and 10% cabernet sauvignon. (87 points)
2009 Long Shadows Wineries Syrah Sequel - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $46. This syrah smells like the freshest red plums, but there’s also this nice blackberry and coffee and a bit of roasted meat. On the palate, these tannins don’t mess around. But the balance between tannins and acid is so spot on that it’s altogether accessible, even fresh. Juicy red and blue fruits, with hints of baker’s chocolate and violets, there’s also a nice herbal kick and some smoke flavor. Roasted and earthy on the finish, which lingers for a very long time. Yes, this is delicious, and I bet it will be even better in two years. (91 points)
SRP: $46. This syrah smells like the freshest red plums, but there’s also this nice blackberry and coffee and a bit of roasted meat. On the palate, these tannins don’t mess around. But the balance between tannins and acid is so spot on that it’s altogether accessible, even fresh. Juicy red and blue fruits, with hints of baker’s chocolate and violets, there’s also a nice herbal kick and some smoke flavor. Roasted and earthy on the finish, which lingers for a very long time. Yes, this is delicious, and I bet it will be even better in two years. (91 points)
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