Lesser-Known Grape Varieties Have Lots to Offer the Andventurous Wine Drinker

The Trousseau grape. Credit: Wikipedia.

2017 is starting off pretty rough on the national stage, but for adventurous wine drinkers, times are good.

More and more importers are searching out ancient and indigenous grape varieties from all over the Old World. And more American winegrowers and producers are trying their hand at grape varieties you may not know.

From Baco Noir to Trousseau to Rkatsiteli (say that last one three times quickly), there are so many ways to branch out from Cabernet and Chardonnay.

A bunch of wine writers (myself included) offer up some suggestions on fascinating, sometimes obscure, but most always delicious, grape varieties. 
Click here for some adventurous, palate-expanding grape varieties to explore.

Prime Time for Jura Wine

Jura wines boast their region in raised glass on the bottle.

I’m a huge fan of wines from France’s Jura region. They’ve been “hip” for quite a few years now – making appearances on natural wine lists at all sorts of wine bars and restaurants. My wine nerd friends and I love them, but the obscure varieties, small levels of production and old school labels and bottles might strike novices as strange. 

Sure some of these wines can be funky and earthy with intense acidity, and sometimes the whites show nutty and oxidized elements (depending on the producer and style). But I’m convinced Jura wines (sparkling, white and red) offer the wine newcomer an intellectually-fascinating and palate-expanding experience, but also a damn pleasurable one. When it comes to unique wines with quirky personalities and complex flavors, Jura wines are quintessential. 

The prices are right, that’s for sure. There are so many Jura wines that you can find in the $20-$25 range. As with any wine region, sure, you can spend more. But entry-level Jura wines are so much fun, and even the age-worthy wines frequently show well upon release. 

I recently tasted through a bunch of Jura wines at my favorite wine shop, Weygandt Wines in DC's Cleveland Park neighborhood. They've been importing a range of Jura wines for a while, and they're always on the lookout for new and exciting producers.

If you're looking for a unique and interesting wine, you can't do much better with $20-$30.

My notes:

N.V. Domaine Désiré Petit Crémant du Jura - France, Jura, Crémant du Jura
$21
Lots of spice and nutty elements on the nose. Creamy, spiced apple on the palate but so zesty. Flavors of toasted bread crumbs over oyster shells. Lots of fun, unique flavors. 100% Chardonnay. (88 points)

N.V. Domaine Désiré Petit Crémant du Jura - France, Jura, Crémant du Jura
$21
Zesty aromas of roses, baby’s breath and strawberries. Crisp and spicy on the palate, full of strawberries and white peach, accented by notes of white tea and spice. Very good for under $20. 100% Pinot Noir. (87 points)

2011 Les Granges Paquenesses Côtes du Jura La Mamette - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
$23
This is getting better and better with age. Lots of minerals and stones with some salted almond accents to the melon and orange fruit. I’m impressed by the depth and complexity this is gaining but it’s still so fresh and vibrant. (89 points)

2014 Domaine Didier Grappe Chardonnay Côtes du Jura Novelin - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
$25
So bright and clean, with flowers, sea spray and clean laundry on the nose. Creamy palate but so tangy and salty with a brightness that tingles onto the finish. (87 points)

2014 Les Granges Paquenesses Côtes du Jura La Pierre - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
$28
Non-oxidized style, this is a fresh, bright and salty wine with a lovely creaminess as well. Zesty but nervy, tons of mineral complexity, along with notes of honeycomb and white tea. Lovely stuff. (90 points)

2013 Caveau de Bacchus Melon à Queue Rouge Aviet - France, Jura, Arbois
$35
Smells peachy and clean with orange rind and lime juice. Rich but crunchy and salty on the palate. Lime and orange peels mixed with crunchy sea salt and hints of white pepper. Bright, long finish. Really interesting stuff – I’d love to cellar some for a few years and see what comes out. (90 points)

2014 Domaine Désiré Petit Arbois - France, Jura, Arbois
$21
I love the fresh aromatics of Trousseau, and this one is so perfumed: black tea, roses, spiced red berry compote. Crisp and juicy on the palate with red cherries and red apple peel. Clean and soft tannins with fresh acid. Salty and spicy on the finish. So good for the money. (89 points)

2011 Domaine de la Pinte Pinot Noir Arbois - France, Jura, Arbois
$30
Fresh, vibrant and floral aromatics, fresh raspberries and cherries. Silky but structured with fine, dusty tannins and, of course, bright, refreshing acid. Tart cherries and wild strawberries mix with black tea, bay leaf and pepper. Vibrant and open now but I’m interested to see what develops in the next two to four years. (90 points)

2014 Domaine Didier Grappe Côtes du Jura Insouciantes - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
$30
Very interesting aromatics here: wild cherries, red apple, grapefruit, and a host of spice and nut elements. Great acid, fine tannins, the crunchy red berries are laced with spices and herbs. That acidity is rocking and this wine is pure and vibrant. Trousseau, Ploussard and Pinot blend. (90 points)

Rocking Jura Wines from Domaine de la Pinte

Bruno is the man. 

Bruno Ciofi seems perpetually stoked about life. He’s always smiling and sharing stories, and whenever I asked him a question, he listened carefully, took it to heart and provided thoughtful answers from a unique perspective. Talk to him for just a few minutes, and you realize you’re stoked about life as well.

I’ve been a fan of Bruno’s Jura wines for years, having tasted many of them at Weygandt Wines in DC, which imports them. But I’d never had the pleasure of meeting the man behind Domaine de la Pinte until I ran into him at Millésime Bio Fair in Montpellier in January.

His wines are packed with character. Quirky, yet elegant, they scream Jura with their fresh acid and mineral tones, yet the wines avoid some of the more extreme elements associated with the region, like oxidization and intensely funky flavors. I chatted with Bruno for a good 40 minutes or so, tasting some wines I hadn’t tried before. 

I had an absolute blast and was reminded again why I love Jura wines, and why Domaine de la Pinte is such a special producer.

My notes…

2011 Domaine de la Pinte Chardonnay Arbois Pupillin “Fonteneille” - France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
A blissful and unique Chardonnay. A special selection from limestone and blue marl soils, it smells like dried apricot, clover honey, lemon verbena and crushed rocks. Rich texture but terrific acid and a pure stream of minerals throughout. Yellow apple and green pear fruit are matched with minerals, sage, lemon pepper and mountain stream notes. Such minerality and elegance. Love this stuff. (91 points)

2011 Domaine de la Pinte Arbois “del Ami Karl” - France, Jura, Arbois
Aromas of smoke, sour cherries, pickles, clay and a note that reminds me of red beet. All about the freshness on the palate, with crisp acid and lots of minerals. Tangy sour cherry fruit mixes with clay, tobacco and dried rose flavors. Not quite as good as I remember the 2010, but another delicious Poulsard from Bruno. (89 points)

Bruno's loyal assistant... asleep on the job at Millesime BioFair.

2011 Domaine de la Pinte Arbois “a la capitaine” - France, Jura, Arbois
Light rose color. Smells like cranberries, rose hips and dried herbs. Such freshness on the palate, with tart berries and red apple peel, matched by notes of roses, dusty road and crushed limestone. So elegant and crisp with a tobacco-laced finish. A blend of Pinot, Poulsard and Trousseau. (90 points)

2011 Domaine de la Pinte Melon à Queue Rouge Arbois Pupillin - France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
Highly aromatic, with honey, peach and a floral-grass note that reminds me of daffodils and hay. Creamy texture, live-wire acid and such purity on the palate. Nectarine and honeydew melon mix with dried honey and peanut shell. I like to generous feel but it's still precise and elegant. (90 points)

2007 Domaine de la Pinte Savagnin Arbois - France, Jura, Arbois
Aromas of yellow apple, dried honey, wax and an aroma that reminds of wood after it's been rubbed with that lemon-scented dusting oil, as crazy as that may sound. Tangy as hell on the palate, but full and creamy. Green pear and apricot mix with nutty, dried honey notes. The wine spends 18 months on the lees and five years in barrel, although the oxidation is controlled and not overwhelming. (91 points)

N.V. Domaine de la Pinte Arbois “Cuvée d'Automne” - France, Jura, Arbois
Exotic on the nose, rich and waxy with lemon peel, smoke and floral incense. Nutty, complex on the palate with nectarine, dried pineapple and yellow apple. I get some nutty, dried wax notes as well. The oxidation is minor, and as Bruno describes it, this wine is a fresher alternative to Vin Jaune. Really unique and tasty, this would be a great pairing with all sorts of cheese. A blend of 80% Savagnin from 2006 (some of which is oxidized) and 20% Chardonnay from 2008. (90 points)

2005 Domaine de la Pinte Arbois Vin Jaune - France, Jura, Arbois
Smells like nuts, hay, dried wax, lemon peel and white pepper. A complex mix of aromas. Full and waxy on the palate, complex, but full of fresh acid. Flavors of almond, lemon oil, sea brine and green olive combine in a unique package. Finish with notes of preserved lemon, nuts and graham cracker crust. Despite the oxidation, it's still fresh and subtle, and not overwhelming given this style. Delicious stuff, I'd love to cellar some for a decade to see what happens. (91 points)

N.V. Domaine de la Pinte Arbois Vin de Paille “Paradoxe” - France, Jura, Arbois
Aromas of glazed pear, peach, honey, preserved lemon and an oily-waxy note. Flavors of apricot, sweet pineapple, honey and mixed nuts on a full-bodied frame with lovely acid. I love the combination of freshness and fullness, and the sweetness is much more reserved and balanced than a lot of dessert wines. Caramel-laden finish. Bruno calls this wine Paradoxe because he says it tastes less sweet than it actually is. Delicious stuff. (91 points)

A Weekend of <$25 Wines

I taste a lot of wine, and inevitably I come across some disappointmenting bottles. This weekend contained no such wines. I tasted a slew of mostly old world wines at home and with some wine nerd buddies at Weygandt Wines this weekend. Bacchus was with us, because every bottle had something to show me. When you keep an open mind, taste everything, you find some goodies.

By the way, an added bonus: all of these wines were purchased at or retail for less than $25.

Whites

2010 Domaine les Aphillanthes Côtes du Rhône Blanc Clementia - France, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
Pretty peach-gold color in the glass. At first, not much going on here aromatically. Yellow apple and honey, some white flowers. It opened up with about an hour. On the palate, the first thing I notice about this wine is its ripeness, lots of cantaloupe melon, yellow apple and a hint of apricot. There’s enough acid to balance the ripe fruit, and it’s not goopy. But it is not a lean wine. Some nutty and buttery notes add complexity and weight. This wine makes me crave chicken alfredo or linguini with white clam sauce, something rich that could stand up to this wine’s boldness. A blend of equal parts roussanne and viognier with about 10% clairette. 86 points

2008 Weingut Dr. Siemens Serriger Würtzberg Riesling Kabinett feinherb - Germany, Mosel Bright gold color in the glass. On the nose, this is classic Mosel riesling, but it also does its own thing. Lots of green apple and lime aromas mix with clover honey, nougat and a whiff of oil. On the palate, I really like where this wine is in its evolution. Acid attacks and sticks around the entire time, providing a laser-like backbone. The fruit flavors are refined and sexy: lime, Granny Smith apple, papaya, a hint of quince. The minerality in this wine is really kicking, like mountain stream water and slate rock. Combined with the acid, it’s almost like a tickling sensation on the palate. This wine is tangy, zesty, but showing signs of maturity in the hints of nougat, honeycomb and lemon oil. Delicious stuff, especially for the price. As with most rieslings I drink, I want to taste this again in five years.  91 points

1997 Christine Woods Chardonnay Estate Reserve - California, Mendocino County, Anderson Valley
The label, capsule and cork were in pristine condition, like this wine was newly released as opposed to 15 years old. Medium gold color in the glass with thin legs. Interesting aromas, predominantly orange rind, lemon zest and hazelnut. Pretty aromas, demonstrating that this wine is by no means dead or dying, and surprisingly not oxidized. Lots of lemon curd and baked apples on the palate, along with a flavor that is a dead ringer for boiled peanuts. It tastes smooth and nutty, slightly sherry-like from age. A bit of toast accents the fruit, but it’s so subtle. What I like is the kick of acid that sticks around throughout. There’s a waxiness and mineral aspect that reminds me a bit of chenin blanc, believe it or not. Apple sauce notes linger on the finish. The 12% alcohol means this wine is quite light on its feet, which I really enjoy. (Why don’t many people make 12% alcohol California chardonnays anymore?)  It’s a really fun wine that was probably meant to be consumed ten years ago. But, hey, it’s still going. Considering my expectations were extremely low, I ended up enjoying this wine. I brought it for some friends, and they all commented that it was still youthful. 87 points

2010 Domaine Michel Juillot Bourgogne Blanc - France, Burgundy
Aromatically, this is the picture of freshness: green apple, lemon, white flowers and honeysuckle aromas. Lots of acid on the palate, flavors of lemon-lime, a hint of grapefruit, and a kick of minerals. This is such a pure chardonnay, with a tingly finish. Yum. 87 points

2005 Luneau-Papin Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Semper Excelsior - France, Loire Valley, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
I tasted this blind and its minerality, high acid and creaminess led me to guess it was a 2010 Chablis. Bright yellow-straw color. Aromas of green apple, whipped cream, sweet tarts and slate. Very tangy on the palate, with a streak of minerals and lime. Very precise and focused. I was very surprised to see this was from 2005, as it tastes incredibly young. It really reminds me of a young Chablis. It's frankly beautiful, and I'd love to try this again in five years. 90 points

2010 Domaine de l'Ecu (Guy Bossard) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Expression d'Orthogneiss - France, Loire Valley, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
Light straw color. Lots of tropical fruit on the nose, papaya, mango and honey, but somehow it's still really bright. Super creamy on the palate with intense acid. Lots of body, but tons of minerals and acid for balance. A very impressive muscadet that would be great to taste again in ten years. Tasted blind, guessed it as a 2009 muscadet. 89+ points

Reds

2011 Daniel Bouland Côte de Brouilly - France, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly
Vibrant cherry-ruby color. Bright aromas of black cherries, dark loamy soils, hints of bitter chocolate. The palate has a lot of tangy acid, along with grippy tannins. Flavors of pure cherries, minerals, cocoa and graphite. It's very complex and could age for ten years easily. Solid stuff! Daniel Bouland is a master with the gamay grape. 89 points

2010 Jacques Puffeney Trousseau Arbois - France, Jura, Arbois
I tasted this blind and guessed it only as a Jura red. It just has that Jura red mystique: the light cherry color in the glass; aromas of sour cherries, cranberry, white pepper and raspberry bushes, a hint of black tea. The palate is really tangy with lots of minerality. Fine-grained tannins combine for an almost mouth-puckering feeling, reminiscent of a 2008 Burgundy. A hint of soy and herb lingers on the finish. Gorgeous, and I imagine this will be even better in two years or so. 90 points

2010 Château Des Roques Vacqueyras - France, Southern Rhône, Vacqueyras
This is a more restrained and elegant wine than the 2009, and it's frankly one of the best bargains I've seen in a long time. Dark cherry colored. Blackberries, fig paste, hints of braised meat on the nose. The palate is pure silk. Fresh cherries, blackberries and cranberries glide in on a wave of acid and fine tannins. Notes of pepper, cocoa and minerals linger on the finish. This would be beautiful with a pot roast. 88 points

Three Exciting Wines from the Jura

The other day I had the opportunity to taste some wines from the Jura at Weygandt Wines. They're not for sale yet, but Weygandt is excited about getting them. These three wines are all from the same producer, Domaine de la Pinte, in the Arbois appellation. One chardonnay and two reds from unique varieties. After tasting these three wines, I'm thrilled about the quality and the price. I believe all of these will come in at less than $25. Since there's not a huge market for Jura wines, it's a great pleace to explore.

2010 Domaine de la Pinte Arbois Pupillin - France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
I tasted this blind with Peter Weygandt and knew it was going to be something unique. Sure enough, it is. Light yellow color. Ripe pineapple leads the way on the nose, but there's also an aroma like olive oil and salt. The palate starts off quite fruity and ripe, with white peach and pineapple. A second later, the acid comes ripping in, followed by a saline aspect. The effect is a bold but balanced wine. There is complexity packed into this wine that needs years to evolve. I'd love to put some of these sideways for 10+ years and see what happens. (90 pts.)

2010 Domaine de la Pinte Arbois "del Ami Karl" - France, Jura, Arbois
Another great surprise. This wine is made from 100% poulsard. Light ruby color in the glass, and very clear. Very interesting aromas. There's an aroma that reminds me exactly of turkey gravy, really unique but kind of strange. There's some currant tea aromas underneath. I tasted this blind, but I knew it was Jura. There's something about the aromas in Jura wines, I just love it. The palate shows bright fruit, lots of acid, and smooth tannins. Currants, rose petal and meat gravy flavors glide over the palate. There's enough fruit from make this more than just a "nerdy" wine, as we all described it. I really enjoyed this and am looking forward to when it hits the store this summer. (90 pts.)

2009 Domaine de la Pinte Arbois "a la capitaine" - France, Jura, Arbois
Tasted blind and I was very impressed. Vibrant ruby color in the glass with thick legs. The color is clear and fresh like a light pinot color. Aromas of rose, black cherry and baking spices. The fruit is pure and matched with gritty tannins. There's this delicious inkiness here that reminds me of some California syrah, but then there's this rush of minerals that comes in and completely takes over. The finish is laced with chocolate shavings and charcoal, but those minerals never go away. This wine is really delicious. It would win over new world fans with its strength and power, but wow Jura fans with its complexity and those dark, earl grey tea tannins. I can't wait til this becomes available for purchase. (91 pts.)

Here's a map of this lesser known region:

Wine for Nerds

Some fellow oenophile and wine bloggers got together at my favorite wine shop, Weygandt Wines, for an impromptu tasting. There was no theme, we all just brought a bottle we thought the others would find interesting. There were a surprising amount of unique, rare and nerdy wines. Some stood out from the pack, but I can honestly say I enjoyed every wine. It was great night of wine and conversation. I can't wait for the next one.

Whites and Nouveau

The whites were all unique and wonderful, while the Nouveau won over some haters.

• 2002 Philippe Prié Champagne Brut Tradition - France, Champagne
  This Champagne was a great way to start off the evening. The lemon and wheat bread aromas were just explosive. The palate has a ton of acid and intense yeast. It's a powerful wine, with laser-like lime, pear and biscuit flavors. A long finish. (91 pts.)
• 2006 Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet Hermitage Blanc - France, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
  I brought this wine hoping to win over some people who are hesitant with rhone whites. This one had more than a few fans. Hazelnut, lanolin, smoke and lemon oil aromas. The lemon oil aroma is dead on, and reminds me of growing up when my mother would clean all her antiques with a lemon-based dusting oil. The palate is full of nutty, pear and yellow apple fruit, backed up with medium acid and a mineral streak that reminds me of oyster shells. The palate has a long finish of honeycomb and hazelnut, but the acid maintains throughout. (91 pts.)
• 2008 Domaine Ganevat Chardonnay Grusse en Billat - France, Côtes du Jura
  I've had this wine before, but liked it even more this time, maybe because I spent a lot of time with it. Aromas of yellow apple, marshmallows, smoke and honeycomb. The palate is plump and smoky, but the acid and mineral edge are so intense that the wine feels perfectly balanced. Gorgeous hazelnut and peanut shell flavors, with a hint of seaweed and minerals. While I love chardonnay in all its interpretations, this one has a little bit of everything in it. It's a very approachable Jura wine. Fantastic stuff. (92 pts.)
• 2010 Pascal Janvier Jasnières - France, Loire Valley, Jasnières
  I was really wowed by this wine, and impressed by how much it offered. The nose is just gorgeous, with slate, salt, pear and minerals. The palate is richer than I was expecting, based on the aromas. The pear, chammomile and honeycomb mix with sea salt and stones to make for a balanced and lively wine. There's a hint of ginger on the finish that I love. (90 pts.)
• 2011 Domaine du Vissoux / Pierre-Marie Chermette Beaujolais Nouveau Primeur - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais Nouveau
  This is a Beaujolais Nouveau for all the haters out there. For that wine snob who refuses to touch the stuff, this is a wine to pour for them. It's the best Nouveau I've ever had. The nose is rich and explosive with sweet cherries, but I'm impressed by the amount of dark fruit aromas as well. The palate is like a burst of plum, black cherry and there's even some earthy-spicy flavors as well. Great acid makes it fresh and, frankly, delicious. (87 pts.)

A Plethora of Reds

We had some Jura, Loire, Sicily and California reds all thrown together for a fascinating flight.

• 2006 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Ferrington Vineyard - USA, California, Anderson Valley
  This pinot was just lovely, with a gorgeous bright purple color. The nose showed rose petals, smoke, red cherries. Over time, the wine opened up to show a bit of rhubarb, which was great. The palate was full of boisterous cherries, tangy acid and smooth tannins. The palate showed lots of finesse and restraint, while maintaining a lush and rich mouthfeel. Long, lingering finish with a touch of acid. (93 pts.)
• 2009 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée - France, Loire Valley, Chinon
  This is an incredibly young wine that has a long life ahead of it. Even now, though, it's delivering. The aromas are dark, with black cherry and currants, along with a hint of pepperoni. With time and air, the aromas opened up, and I think the long-term aromatic potential of this wine is very high. The palate has gritty tannins, tangy acid and rich dark fruit. The mouthfeel is huge, but it somehow maintains balance. I enjoyed the plum, loam and green pepper flavors. Long, tannin-filled finish. This could use a decant, or ten years in the cellar. (92 pts.)
• 2008 Jacques Puffeney Poulsard Arbois "M" - France, Jura, Arbois
  It's not every day a wine made from poulsard is thrown into a tasting, but this wine had some fans, and I was one of them. The color of this wine in this glass is a mix of auburn and bright cherry red. Aromas of sour cherry, red apple, flowers and an aroma that reminds me of spaghetti and meatballs, or meat stewed with tomatoes. I was surprised by the tannic structure of this wine. It has real grip to it. The flavors of meat, dark cherries, olive and earth are compact, but delicious. This could develop a lot of complexity with age. It was fun to drink now, but I'd love to try this again in five or ten years. (89 pts.)
• 2010 Clos Roche Blanche Touraine L'Arpent Rouge - France, Loire Valley, Touraine
  This tasting turned out to have wines made from all sorts of grapes, including this pineau d'aunis. This wine is really unique, but not for everyone. In the glass, it looks like fruit compote, with a lot of cloudiness. It needed a decant to blow off some of the very funky aromas. Initially, it smelled a bit like carrion, but that blew off. After about a half-hour, it started smelling like hippies. Seriously, it smelled like dark incense, hemp and dirty ponchos. It's one of the most interesting aromatic profiles I've come across in a while. The palate shows dense tannins and tangy acid. Rhubarb, wild strawberry and onion grass flavors, with some smoke as well. There's a taste of rotting leaves on the finish, which I really enjoyed. This is a very interesting wine that could probably use a bit of time in the bottle, although this one came with a faux cork, so I'm not sure about the aging potential. (89 pts.)
• 2008 Arianna Occhipinti Nero d'Avola Siccagno Sicilia IGT - Italy, Sicilia IGT
  It's been a few months since I've had a nero d'avola, and this wine makes me think I should drink them more often. It's a smoky, cloudy red color in the glass. The nose shows explosive black cherries and smoke. The palate is bold, but also very bright and easy to drink. The tannic grip is matched with zippy acid, all backed up by blackberry, lamb and olive tapenade flavors. A very unique wine that's clearly doing it's own thing. (88 pts.)
• 2007 Volker Eisele Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
  I have a feeling I would've enjoyed this more alone, rather than tasted with so many wines. It was strange to have a Napa cab thrown into the tasting at this point. The nose was closed at first, but ipened to show smoke, currants and blackberries. The palate is rich and creamy and the cassis and pipe tobacco flavors mingle with the oak on the finish. (87 pts.)

Palate Cleanser

It's always good to split up a bunch of reds with a nice sherry.

• N.V. Emilio Lustau Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Lustau Solera Reserva Light Manzanilla Papirusa - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
  I needed a break after the first bunch of reds, and this manzanilla sherry did a great job of cleansing the palate. The nose showed almonds, lemon rind and a bit of vermouth. The palate was briny with sea salt and peanut flavors. Very briny, in fact, like green olive brine and some sea shells. I enjoy these flavors, so I had a good time with this wine. (86 pts.)

More Reds

To finish off, we threw some random reds together. The Bandol stole the flight, and was a great way to end the tasting.

• 2005 Domaine du Bois de Saint-Jean Côtes du Rhône Cuvée de Voulongue - France, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
  When I turned 21, the 2003 Rhones were just hitting the market. I was just getting into wine and focused heavily on this area. I remember buying many wines from this producer and really enjoying them. I haven't had one in years, so it was fun to try this 2005. The nose really stunk upon opening. It wasn't faulty, just stinky: seaweed, olive paste and lamb wool. The palate had good acid and tannins, with some dark plum and earth flavors. A savory meat flavor lingers on the finish. Good, but just couldn't compete with some of the other wines being poured. (87 pts.)
• 2010 Domaine du Vissoux / Pierre-Marie Chermette Fleurie Les Garants - France, Beaujolais, Fleurie
  One of only a few 2010 beaujolais wines that I've had, and I really enjoy this vintage. Cherries, plum cake and loam on the nose. Gorgeous on the palate, with dense plums, silky tannins and fresh acid. This wine has it all, compacted into a tight ball, and could use some time to open up. (88 pts.)
• 2010 Domaine de L'Octavin Arbois Commendatore Les Corvées - France, Jura, Arbois
  I really enjoyed this trousseau. Very light red color in the glass, almost like cherry juice. The nose smells like Fruity Pebbles mixed with sour cherries. The palate is light and fresh with cherry candy, rose petals and hints of earth. If a Jura wine can ever be called a quaffer, this is it. Thanks again to Tom for representing the Jura. They should hire him as a wine ambassador. (88 pts.)
• 1997 La Bastide Blanche Bandol Cuvée Estagnol - France, Provence, Bandol
  This Bandol has years ahead of it, but it's lovely right now. Very cloudy and gritty in the glass. Rich aromas of black plums, olives and meat. The palate shows sour cherries, olives, meat and leaves. A taste of mushrooms lingers on the finish. I really enjoyed this, and think it will continue to develop complexity for a few more years. The tannins and fruit are still big and bold. (90 pts.)

Exciting and "Nerdy" Wines From the Jura

Wines from the Jura region of France are a nerdy oenophile’s dream. They’re unique, intense and, well, seem well-suited for dorks. They frequently come in bottles shaped like Russian stacking dolls, feature wax caps over the cork and come from grapes even wine geeks can’t remember: poulsard, savagnin, trousseau. Jura wines are like an artist friend from some remote European village who wears tight black clothes, smokes clove cigarettes and eats fried calamari out of a brown paper bag. Kind of crazy, kind of scary, but, in a very odd way, kind of cool. They are introverted wines with quirky qualities that a lot of people are just going to flat-out hate. But I love them. Then again, I’m an introvert and a nerd, so that makes sense.

Anyway, I got together with some friends at Polena in Cleveland Park for some Jura wines, generously provided by another equally nerdy wine enthusiast. This tasting dinner was my first time trying wines made from poulsard and trousseau, two grapes I’m sad to say I’ve overlooked… until now. I also really love what chardonnay does in the Jura. It’s not white Burgundy, it’s not Chablis and its not new world. It’s Jura. And some producers there are apparently doing great things with the grape. Jura wines are hard to get, but I’m officially on the lookout.

My tasting notes are below. I know they are a bit extravagant, but that’s only because these wines were so damned unique.


N.V. Hubert Clavelin Crémant du Jura Brut - Comté - France, Jura, Crémant du Jura
This sparkling chardonnay was light golden in color. flowers, almonds and fresh biscuit aromas. Razor sharp acid, bordering on austere for some palates. Lemon zest, sea shells and minerals on the palate and a distinct saline flavor on the finish. A very unique sparkling wine that made me crave oysters. (88 points)

2007 Domaine de l'Aigle a Deux Tetes Côtes du Jura "En Quattre Vis" Vieilles Vignes - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
The nose on this chardonnay showed lemons and minerals, opening up with time to show a bit of orange rind. the palate is light and zesty with orange zest, lemon and mineral flavors. There’s a very distinct slate flavor in this wine. The finish is quite long, and a hint of hazelnut comes out on the finish. A lighter style, but enough complexity to keep it interesting. (88 points)

2007 Domaine de l'Aigle a Deux Tetes Côtes du Jura Vieilles Vignes en Griffez - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
Golden color in the glass. The nose on this is amazing: almond shell, buttered pear, coconut shavings and biscuits. The palate is so much richer and creamier than the "en quattre vis" bottling. I’m amazed two wines from the same producer, appellation and vintage (different vineyard) can be so incredibly different. This wine changed so much over the course of the night, transitioning from a creamy, nutty and herbal element to a more briny, mineral-driven wine with time. I’d love to see what five years does to this wine. I’d also love to pour this to fans of creamy California chardonnays, as this offers a version of that without the oakiness. (89 points)

2008 Emmanuel Houillon Arbois Pupillin Maison Pierre Overnoy Chardonnay - France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
As a huge fan of chardonnay in all its expressions, I absolutely loved this wine. It really demands attention. From the moment it hits the glass, I knew I was in for something different. The wine was cloudy (clearly unfiltered, possibly unfined?) like tea with honey. The nose is a medley of lemon peel, honey, and what I describe as a Hawaiin bun aroma, meaning a fluffy, sweet, baked bread aroma. Absolutely gorgeous nose. The tasting group described the palate as "clean and tight," and I agree. But it has tremendous richness, showing honeycomb, hazelnut, lemon peel and dried apricot. underneath it all is a briny aspect, like dill pickles covered in garlic salt. All of these elements are in impeccable balance. The finish is long and intense. What a crazy, amazing wine. (92 points)

1993 Emmanuel Houillon Poulsard Arbois Pupillin Maison Pierre Overnoy - France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
The color on this "red" wine is more like watered down sweet tea mixed with cranberry juice. My friend Tim described the aromas of the wine thusly: "it smells like someone farted on a tire." Yes, there is some stinkiness, clearly some brettanomyces sneaking around in this wine. But to me it smells like braised pork belly. No, I wasn't eating pork belly, so it's not that. It really smelled like you were cooking bacon on high heat, went to take a shower or something, and came back 45 minutes later. Also, it smells like car exhaust. I thought of the Jersey Turnpike while smelling this wine. Not sure if that's a good thing, being a jersey boy, or if it means this wine could’ve poisoned me. The palate is surprisingly approachable. Okay, maybe not approachable, but the average wine taster wouldn’t spit this out. Good tannins still, zingy acid. The palate feels a bit confused to me, a bit off balance. I actually do get some wild strawberry and cranberry fruit. The finish is quite long and leaves me with a leathery taste. What an interesting example of what the poulsard grape can do, especially when aged. Several tasters commented that the wine reminded them of Burgundy a bit, and I can definitely see that comparison. (87 points)

2007 Jacques Puffeney Trousseau Arbois Les Berangères - France, Jura, Arbois
I loved this wine. Vibrant ruby colored in the glass. The nose is gorgeous: soft red fruit, rich top soil, dill pickles and herbs. I could smell this wine forever, as it just kept opening up more and more. The palate is soft and sexy and very reminiscent of pinot noir, at least to me. (This wine is made from the trousseau grape). Laser-like intensity and focus. Delicious red fruit and mineral flavors laced with herbs. Less tannic than a young Burgundy, but still some grip. The finish is really long and gorgeous. My first taste of a trousseau, and I’m very impressed. (92 points)

2009 Domaine Ganevat Côtes du Jura Plein Sud - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
Well, one good trousseau deserves another. This wine was even better than the Puffeney, albeit a very different style. Bright ruby color. The nose is just gorgeous: melted licorice, plums. this combination of fresh strawberry and earth aromas reminds me of an 09 Beaujolais. The palate is bright, fresh and laced with lots of minerals. The mouthfeel is plush and the wine completely coats the palate. Like a really good Sonoma Coast pinot noir, this offers rich red fruit, earth, but then takes the minerality to a whole new level. I’m beginning to think I’m in love with trousseau. Wine of the night. (93 points)

2007 Philippe Bornard Arbois Pupillin L'Ivresse de Noé - France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
This dessert wine made from savagnin grapes is goldenrod colored. The nose shows honey, pine, apricots. Reminds me of a late harvest chenin blanc. The palate is an interesting blend of briny flavors and creamy, sweet fruit. It’s like pickle juice and calamari dumped on top of candied peaches and apricot jam. Then top it with margarita salt. Seriously. What a weird/impressive wine that went very well with a variety of hard cheeses. The finish is long with a very distinct saltiness. (90 points)