Diving into Alto Adige's distinctive wines

Credit: IDM Florian Andergassen

Note: This is my first contribution to my friend Aaron Menenberg’s Good Vitis site.

After all my years, there are still many wine regions of Italy I wanted to explore further. Recently, I’ve been digging into the Alto Adige region from afar, and I’m happy to report the findings have been delightful.

Though one of Italy’s smaller wine-producing regions, Alto Adige is complex and full of unique sites and winemaking cultures. Here, independent growers, smaller family-run wineries, and cooperatives work with some 20 different grape varieties in vineyards that run the gamut from warm Mediterranean-influenced valleys, to steep, alpine-chilled slopes.

Like the Italian mountaineers of old who chased first ascents in the Dolomites and beyond, these wines are intense, bold, and scrappy. Vineyards are planted at elevations from 600 to 4,000 feet, and often on steep inclined slopes. A real advantage for some winegrowers is the variability in elevation available to some growers, explained Jakob Gasser of St. Michael-Eppan Winery at a recent trade webinar. Located in Appiano, in the foothills of the Dolomites, producers like him can source the right grape from the right elevation and soil to achieve their goals. The winds generated by the mountains, and the resulting diurnal temperature swings, combined with lots of Mediterranean sunshine and warmth – it all comes together in this region to create unique and diverse terroir signatures.

Of course, winemaking goes back generations. But in recent years, the region has undergone something of a transition, from a lesser-known but respected region, to one whose wines are getting more recognition and attention from a larger audience.

When I first started studying Italian wine, I dug into the appellations, maps, and stats, but I didn’t spend much time with the wines from Alto Adige. They weren’t as easy to find, and perhaps I filed this away in my wine brain as “an Italian white wine region that looks interesting but I’ll take a deeper look sometime.” Even today, it’s not often a wine from Alto Adige pops up on a table with my wine friends. But I’m hoping that changes, as I think there’s a ton of opportunity out in these hills.

Chris Struck (New York-based Alto Adige ambassador and beverage direction at ilili Restaurants) said slow and steady work has led to a broader appreciation of what makes this region special. “Whether you’re looking at bellwethers like export data or media buzz, the region is well-poised as having ‘great wines from a great place with a storied history that you may have ever heard of but are hearing about now and should try,”’ Chris told me in an email. “And no wonder, as it has gateway international varieties that people have heard of (but which have a distinct style, as expressed in Alto Adige’s terroir), as well as native varieties that offer something brand new to explore.”

Read the full article and the rest of the Good Vitis Winter Issue here.

Wine Reviews: Italian Grab Bag

I’ve been at home for 19 weeks now, and the travel lust is in full swing. Unfortunately, here in the U.S. we are still in the middle of the first pandemic wave, and things look worse and worse these days. So, this week, to satiate my desire for travel and cheery myself up, I’m visiting a range of Italian wines.

The estate wines of Alois Lageder, in Italy’s Dolomiti region, are organic and biodynamic and really exciting. But I was pleasantly surprised to taste the quality and vibrancy in their Terra Alpina wines, which are sourced from different growers in the region. For the price, these wines offer this sense of regional typicity, depth, and “realness.”

I also tasted an impressive Super Tuscan at an entry-level price from Tenuta di Arceno, and some crushable Veneto wines from Pasqua. Lastly, Zenato’s Amarone makes me long for autumnal weather and slow-cooked meats.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio Terra Alpina – Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT
SRP: $16
Pale lemon color. The nose gushes with kiwi, lime and green melon, mixed with spicy herbs, verbena, talc notes. Plush, medium-bodied, a pretty texture with racy acidity. Ripe melon meets zippy kiwi and lime fruit, which is doused in minerals, chalk, limestone notes. Floral, herbal elements add complexity. This is racy, bright, complex stuff, and a serious value. (90 points)

2019 Alois Lageder Pinot Bianco Terra Alpina – Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT
SRP: $15
Light straw color. Aromas of lemon and kiwi, spiced tea, ginger, sea salt and mint. On the palate, this has a bright, chalky, dusty feel with lots of energy and juicy, tangy fruit (white peach, kiwi, lime). Notes of spiced tea and ginger meet chalk, mineral and quinine notes. Brisk but shows depth and value. (89 points)

2016 Tenuta di Arceno Il Fauno Di Arcanum – Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $35
Medium purple color. Aromas of juicy plums, dark currants, with smoky earth, tobacco, mint chocolate chip and spiced black tea. Full-bodied, structured but velvety, fresh acidity, this is balanced very nicely. Tangy red and black currants and cherries mixed with complex notes of spiced coffee, earth, tar, pepper and coffee grounds. This is a bright but complex Super Tuscan that offers a lot of what I look for in these wines at a very reasonable price. Could use air or a year or two. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot aged 12 months in French oak. (90 points)

2018 Pasqua Romeo & Juliet Passione e Sentimento Bianco – Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $16
Light yellow color. Brisk notes of honeysuckle and lilies, celery seed and mint, over lemon and kiwi fruit. Zippy and crisp on the palate with fresh acidity, and flavors of lemons, green apples and white peach. There’s a flinty, salty undertone that makes this seafood and salad-friendly. Brisk yet some moderate creamy depth with floral perfume to round out the finish. Would be a great BTG pour at a seafood spot. All Garganega. (87 points)

2017 Pasqua Romeo & Juliet Passione e Sentimento Rosso – Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $16
Bright purple color. Aromas of plums, sweet currant jam, with spicy tobacco, cloves, coffee and violets. Smooth and chewy texture on the palate with medium/low acidity, and a velvety feel with plums, raspberry and currant jams. Notes of smoky, resiny, herbal tones with clove. Accessible and fun but has some complexity, too. Merlot, Corvina and Croatina. (87 points)

2015 Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella Classico – Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
SRP: $60
Deep ruby color. Aromas of juicy raspberry, sweet cherries, raisins, sweet roses, vanilla, cocoa and earth. Full-bodied, big and burly at 16.5%, with chewy tannins and medium acidity, a rich and suave feel. Pretty cherries, plum sauce, raisins, kirsch, mixed with elements of cocoa, violets, clove, coffee. Underlying charcoal, mineral and earth vibes. Rich and juicy but shows freshness and complexity. Accessible now but bury for five or eight years and this should show some interesting development. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Italy, France, Portugal & Spain

To all the American readers, hopefully you’ve been enjoying Thanksgiving with family, friends, delicious food and wines over the holiday weekend!

After focusing a lot on California wines recently, I’ve tasted through a bunch of samples from Italy, Portugal and Spain, and found some good recommendations to share.

Fattoria La Valentina does a good job with inexpensive wines from the Abruzzi region, while two wines from Alto Adige bring that crisp, zesty, Alpine-style goodness.

From France, Ferraton doles out two solid offerings from the Rhone Valley.

Port house Symington Family Estates has ventured further south into Alentejo’s Portalegre region to source grapes for a new project called Quinta da Fonte Souto. I love this region, so I was stoked to taste the inaugural 2017 vintage of their red and white. They’re both good, but the white is really something else.

And from Spain, we have two value-driven Riojas from Bodegas Beronia, and a beefy Garnacha that would pair well with cold, snowy nights.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Italy

2018 Fattoria La Valentina Pecorino - Italy, Abruzzi, Colline Pescaresi IGT
SRP: $17
Light yellow color. The nose is bright and fresh, with guava, lime and melon, topped in yellow flowers, nettle and sea salt. Clean and pretty on the palate, with a steely, mountain stream, chalky aesthetic. Lemons, guava and apricot mix well with perfume, chalk, minerals and white tea. Racy but deep, and showing a lot of complexity for this price point. (89 points)

2016 Fattoria La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
SRP: $15
Deep ruby color. Nose shows red cherries and currants, lots of smoky, beefy, leathery tones, some violets. Medium-bodied, smooth tannins, moderate acidity. Flavors of red and black cherries and spiced cranberry sauce play off of smoky earth and leather tones. Fun stuff, showing quite a bit of depth for the price, this is a seriously good pizza bistro style of wine. Mostly stainless still and some old Slavonian oak. (87 points)

2015 Fattoria La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva Spelt - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
SRP: $22
Medium purple color. Deep core of red currants and black cherries on the nose, with spicy pepper, bay leaf, leather, pretty violets and clove. Velvety but some grip on the palate, moderating acidity, seems young but opens up well with air. Crunchy cherries and currants with a complex herbal, spicy, floral mix (violets, clay, clove, rocky earth). Shows significant complexity for the price, this could improve with a few years as well. (90 points)

2018 Colterenzio Schreckbichl Sauvignon Prail - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $22

Medium yellow color. Bright and punchy nose with lemon, green apple, kiwi, along with honeysuckle, sliced cucumber. Lovely depth of texture on the palate, with crisp, nervy acidity. Lemon, lime, crunchy green apples, the fruit is accented with elements of honeysuckle, hay, mountain stream, chalky mineral tones. The herbal elements are subtle and blended in well. Lots of depth and flavor for the price. From calcareous soils, fermented in a mix of stainless steel and old oak, with six months of lees aging. (88 points)

2017 Franz Haas Pinot Nero - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $35
Light ruby color. Aromas of tangy cherries and raspberries, along with black pepper, rose petals, some clove and herbal tea notes. On the palate, this is zippy and tangy with light tannins and juicy fruit (raspberries, strawberries. Peppery, herbal, floral tones underneath. Fun, vibrant, food-friendly Pinot Nero, with an enjoyably bright and spicy personality. Fermented in stainless steel and aged one year in barrel. (87 points)

France

2017 Ferraton Père & Fils Crozes-Hermitage La Matinière - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage
SRP: $26
Medium purple color. Ripe and bright on the nose, black cherries, plums, with smoky, leather, peppery, anise notes. Medium-bodied, smooth tannins, fresh acid, this wine is open and bright, but shows a solid core of black cherry fruit. Peppery, leather, spice rub elements add complexity. An early-drinking style, but it doesn’t lack for complexity. (88 points)

2017 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Samorëns - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
SRP: $16
Deep ruby color. Smells like cherries, raspberries, with sweet roses, pepper, oregano and cola notes. Medium-bodied with smooth tannins, chewy texture, moderate acidity. Jammy raspberries and cherries mix well with dried rose petals, black pepper, clove, leather, sweet cola. Fun, accessible and food-friendly, but still showing complexity for thee price. Grenache with 10% Syrah, 5% Cinsault. (87 points)

Portugal

2017 Quinta da Fonte Souto Portalegre Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo, Portalegre

SRP: $25

Rich yellow color. Lovely nose of honeyed apricot, lemon curd, orange marmalade, but also bright, floral and salty. Plump and lush on the palate, but the nervy, crisp acidity is great, balanced very well. Lemon curd, apricot, yellow apples, with flavors of graham cracker, honeyed white tea, but also these salty, mineral elements. I love the depth, but it stays brisk as well. Alentejo whites are underrated (I think), and this is a great example of what I mean. This wine is crazy good for the money. 75% Arinto, 25% Verdelho, barrel-fermented with lees stirring. (91 points)

2017 Quinta da Fonte Souto Portalegre Tinto - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo, Portalegre
SRP: $25
Almost neon purple color. Rich on the nose with black cherries, plums, blueberries, with smoky, leathery tones, coffee and vanilla. Full-bodied with a chewy texture, but moderate acidity. A saucy compote of blueberries and plums, but the fruit has a nice, crunchy edge. Laced with cocoa, lavender, violets, earth and leather. Good stuff, showing good complexity. Alicante Bouschet with Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Alfrocheiro. (88 points)

Spain

2016 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $15
Light purple. Smells of bright cherries and strawberries, with spicy tobacco, rose petals and floral tea. Medium-bodied on the palate, with light, dusty tannins. Fresh and zippy stile with juicy red fruits (strawberries and raspberries), with lots of tobacco and rose petals. Fun, fresh Rioja that delivers quite a bit of balance and depth for a Crianza at this price point. Tempranillo with 8% Garnacha and 1% Mazuelo, aged 12 months in a mix of French and American oak. (87 points)

2014 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $20
Medium purple color. Lovely earthy, spicy and floral notes on the nose, along with leaves, soil, tobacco, red pepper flakes, over top of fresh cherry fruit. Medium/full-bodied with suave tannins and vibrant acidity, with crisp black cherry fruit. Quite complex notes of cigar lounge, leather, pepper, floral and earth, with a smooth, vanilla finish. Lovely freshness and balance. Drink now or hold for a few. Tempranillo with a combined 5% Graciano, Mazuelo. (89 points)

2014 Viñas del Vero Somontano Secastilla - Spain, Aragón, Somontano
SRP: $40
Deep purple color. Big and dark on the nose, with black cherries and blackberries, topped in campfire smoke, cocoa, anise, scorched earth, vanilla. Full-bodied with sweet, smooth tannins and surprisingly moderate acidity that helps keep it going. Black cherries, dark plums, blueberries, juicy dark fruit is matched with smoky charcoal, cocoa, mint, black pepper. Rich, suave and plush, but showing liveliness as well. Drink on the early side. 100% Garnacha, aged 10 months in French oak. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

This week brings another roundup of wines from all over the world. Let’s dig in.

Included in this report are a pair of appassimento style wines from Pasqua, a producer from Italy’s Veneto region. For the price, they offer up a really cool springboard into this traditional style of wines.

While I love wines from the Italian region of Alto Adige, it’s not that often I taste a Pinot Grigio that stands up and slaps me in the face (in a good way). Peter Zemmer’s Riserva Giatl is a super complex and invigorating PG that deserves some attention.

Per usual, the Port producer Dow’s delivers, this time with two aged Tawny Ports (10- and 20-Year-Old), which reminded me again why I love aged Tawnies.

I also tasted four wines from the northern Spanish region of Navarra, which is home to many solid wines that sell here in the U.S. for very little money. There’s a rosé, a Chard, a Pinot and a Merlot blend, and they all punch well above their price point.

Lastly, I want to highlight two wines from Early Mountain, a Virginia producer who has been going from strength to strength lately. Their newly released Chardonnay and Shenandoah Valley Cabernet Franc show what this exciting winery has to offer.

2017 Pasqua Romeo & Juliet Passione e Sentimento Bianco - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $16
Medium yellow color. Noses of peaches, lemons, green apples, along with sea salt, nettle and floral perfume. Medium-bodied, this is juicy and plump, fun wine with medium acidity and plenty of yellow and green apples, apricots. Notes of yellow and white flowers, white tea, candied ginger, this is a lot of fun for the price. 100% Garganega, which spends a bit of time drying (appassimento) before fermentation. (87 points)

2016 Pasqua Romeo & Juliet Passione e Sentimento Rosso - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $16
Light purple. Nose of candied cherries, sweet raspberries, with chocolate, roses, cinnamon and vanilla. Light tannins, super fresh and tangy, but there’s some rich texture. Cherries, raspberries, sweet and juicy with notes of chocolate, black tea and sweet vanilla. Yummy, fun, goes down easily, a good introduction to the appassimento style. A blend of Merlot and Corvina (which was left to dry for a month) and Croatina. (88 points)

2014 Allegrini Palazzo della Torre Veronese IGT - Italy, Veneto, Veronese IGT
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Aromas show a compote of plums, roasted figs, sweet plums, with anise, tobacco, dark chocolate and vanilla. Full-bodied and juicy with velvety tannins and tangy acidity. Roasted plums, figs, black cherries mix well with accents of black tea, coffee grounds, anise, dark chocolate. Corvina, Rondinella and Sangiovese, some of the grapes are left to dry until December before being vinified. This is a great intro to this style of wine and it always delivers for the price. (88 points)

2016 Peter Zemmer Pinot Grigio Riserva Giatl - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol

SRP: $38
Rich yellow color. Gorgeous nose of peaches, limes, laced with floral perfume, fresh Spring breeze, wildflowers, cucumber and mint, with crushed rock notes. Plush on the texture with lovely depth on a full-bodied frame, but the acidity is nervy and fresh, pushing the wine forward. Yellow plums, peach nectar, lime, the fruit is laced with pretty, complex notes of saline, crushed chalk, floral perfume, mint, honey, Balanced, deep, complex, a Pinot Grigio to silence skeptics. Fermented in French oak, this wine is sourced from sandy, chalky soils in Giatl. A rare “Riserva” designation, this is some exceptional stuff. (92 points)

N.V. Dow Porto 10 Year Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $37
Auburn color. The nose shows dates, figs, candied nuts, dried flowers and spiced tea. Full but fresh on the palate, a velvety, smooth, rich but lively feel. Dates, plum cake, candied pecans, and I get notes of cinnamon, graham cracker, spiced tea, dried flowers and clove. Rich yet vibrant, the sweetness is woven in really well and the wine comes across lively. This is a really solid Tawny for the price. (89 points)

N.V. Dow Porto 20 Year Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $65
Deep auburn color. Nose shows deeper, more complex elements of digs, candied nuts, caramel, plum cake, I get some crème brulee and candied ginger. So smooth on the palate, full and sweet but really fresh and vibrant, too. The balance here is really lovely. Candied pecans, orange marmalade, almond cake, graham cracker, gingerbread – lots of deep flavor but it stays so vibrant. (91 points)

2018 Castillo de Monjardín Chardonnay El Cerezo Unoaked - Spain, NavarraSRP: $12
Medium yellow color. Aromas of yellow apples, glazed pears, salted peanuts, hay and honeysuckle. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity, this rides a nice line between styles of Chardonnay, with juicy, ripe elements, but it’s not too plump or over-oaked (all stainless steel). Tropical mix of pineapple and lime blends with minerals, chalk, salted almond, cream and ginger. Nicely balanced, and offers deliciousness but enough to keep me thinking, too. Really good value. (88 points)

2018 Bodegas Ochoa Garnacha Rosado Calendas - Spain, Navarra
SRP: $12

Juicy watermelon colored. Nose boasts raspberries, white peaches, candied apple, topped in spiced herbal and nettle tea, cinnamon candies. Plush and juicy on the palate with a medium+ body and moderate acidity. Red fruit-forward in style with plump cherries, raspberry jam and watermelon. Nots of nettle, verbena, spiced tea add some complexity. This is juicy, forward rose that could stand up to meats and grilled veg with ease. Lots of fun for the price. (87 points)

2016 Castillo de Monjardín Pinot Noir Navarra El Cerezo - Spain, Navarra
SRP: $12
Deep ruby color. Nose of jammy cherries and strawberries, with a good amount of black pepper, sage, roasted earth, rose petals. Fresh on the palate with light tannins and bright acidity. Cherries, raspberry jam and red plums, juicy but not too sweet on the fruit. The elements of spiced tea, pepper and bay leaf add a nice spicy kick, with notes of rose petals and cola. Surprising amount of personality for a $12 Spanish Pinot Noir, which is not a statement I’ve made before. Stainless steel fermented and aged nine months in old oak. (86 points)

2015 Bodega Inurrieta Norte - Spain, Navarra
SRP: $14
Light purple color. The nose shows lots of spiced coffee, black pepper, clove, on top of juicy raspberry, black cherries and plum sauce. Full-bodied, velvety, accessible feel on the palate with medium acidity. Tangy black currants and sweet black cherries, the fruit is laced with lots of spicy black pepper, clove, leather. I like the savory kick here. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah, this is a tasty, crowd-pleasing, barbecue-friendly red blend from Navarra for a solid price. (87 points)

2017 Early Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Franc – USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $30

Light purple color. On the nose, I get black cherries, juicy plums, cassis, along with a complex mix of anise, licorice, menthol and charcoal. Plush on the palate yet structured well with medium tannins and vibrant, crisp acidity, and the texture and balance are on point. Black cherries, cassis, laced with violets, spicy pepper, cocoa, earth, mint, coffee. With air, this opens up nicely and shows more spicy, floral tones. This is a really exciting Virginia Cabernet Franc. All Cabernet Franc sourced from Baer Ridge and Shenandoah Springs vineyards. (90 points)

2017 Early Mountain Chardonnay - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. Such a burst of freshness on the nose, with lime, lemon, chalk dust, sea salt, white flowers and orange blossom. Plump and generous on the palate yet there’s a nervy, salty, chalk-infused vibrancy to this wine that doesn’t quit. Peaches and lemon curd mix nicely with complex elements of chalk dust, honeysuckle, floral perfume, lemon pith and a hint of green herbs. Deep yet bright, this is a stunner of a Virginia Chardonnay, sourced from Early Mountain and Quaker Run vineyards. Fermented in French oak, less than 20% was new. I’d love to see how this ages. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

California's Only Kerner is Killer

I recently got together with a bunch of wine nerd friends for an Italian-themed wine dinner. There were wines from all over Italy, so I decided to blind-taste my friends on a 2017 Abbazia di Novacella Kerner from the Alto Adige region of Northeastern Italy.

Everyone guessed Alto Adige — the whites from this region, regardless of variety, have this bright, zesty, frequently salty and spicy, high altitude appeal. But tasters were split on whether the wine was a Riesling or a Gewurztraminer, which are good guesses since Kerner is a cross between Riesling and Trollinger, and I find Kerner can show a lot of spicy and herbal notes reminiscent of Gewurztraminer.

The wine was well received, and it's always fine to taste a grape variety that is relatively rare. While many producers in Alto Adige make Kerner, in California there's only one planting.

Last week I received a sample of Sidebar Cellars' Kerner, sourced from the Mokelumne Glen Vineyard on the banks of Lodi, California's Mokelumne River. These Kerner vines were planted in 1998 in sandy loam soils, and are the sole California source of this grape.

I, for one, am stoked this vineyard exists. Sidebar is the project of renowned vintner David Ramey, and winemaker Lydia Cummins has crafted an exquisite wine in their 2017 Kerner. Here are my tasting notes... 

2017 Sidebar Cellars Kerner - California, Central Valley, Lodi Mokelumne River
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Whoa, the nose explodes with mango, lemon curd, lots of sea salt, verbena, oregano, green olives — how cool. Bright and inviting on the palate yet there’s a lovely creaminess (sur lie aging really gives it this great texture), a fascinating mouthfeel and balance. Yellow plums, mango, lemon curd, there’s a complex host of minerals, white tea, lemon verbena, oregano, sea salt, chalk dust. This is really cool, delicious, versatile stuff. 100% Kerner from the sandy loam soils of the Mokelumne Glen Vineyard. No maloactic fermentation, aged sur lie in stainless steel. (91 points) 

The Exciting Indigenous Red Grapes of Alto Adige

Trentino/Alto Adige is high on my list of bucket list wine regions to visit. This autonomous region in northeastern Italy seems like a unique crossroads, and it fascinates me with its mix of Italian and Germanic cultures and dynamic terrain. With vines planted in varied soils at elevations between 600 and 3,300 feet, indigenous and international varieties that thrive here, and the wines are something special. 

I recent read and reviewed Jason Wilson’s book “Godforsaken Grapes,” and he spends a good amount of time exploring Alto Adige (also called Südtirol or South Tyrol). I was reading the book as I was tasting through some Alto Adige wines made from the indigenous Schiava (also called Vernatsch) and Lagrein grapes, and was shouting “Amen!” to myself as he ranted about the excitement available from these wines.

Vineyards in Alto Adige. Photo Credit: Florian Andergassen.

The region is relatively small (producing less than 4 million cases of wine a year) and perhaps a bit confusing for some consumers. The names of the winegrowing zones and grapes sound a bit odd, and everything seems to be called by at least two names. That said, if you’re up for exploration, there is a ton of delicious and exceptional wine coming out of Alto Adige.

While whites make up 60% of the wine grown here (led by Pinot Grigio, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay), I recently jumped on the chance to taste some reds from Alto Adige. Schiava is such a cool grape, making lighter-styled wines with juicy red fruits and delicious spicy, earthy notes. Lagrein makes more velvety, cherry-driven wines with cool black tea, leathery, clove elements. Both delight me with their food-friendly appeal and drinkability, and I use that term in the best sense of the word. And, considering these wines aren’t exactly big collector’s items, the prices can be very reasonable.

Below are my notes on a few Alto Adige reds, which I received as samples and tasted sighted.

2015 Abbazia di Novacella Schiava - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Valle Isarco/Eisacktaler
SRP: $17
Gorgeous light strawberry color. Nose boasts red apple, raspberries, with rhubarb, rose petals, this is bright and crunchy and spicy. Medium/light-bodied with crisp, lip-smacking acidity and a pure and bright aesthetic. Strawberries, raspberries, red apple peel, the fruit is tangy and bright and laced with cranberry spiced jam, tobacco smoke and an interesting earthy-mushroom note. Lovely, brisk, bright, Schiava (also known as Trollinger and Vernatsch) is such a damned fun grape! All stainless steel. (90 points)

2015 Franz Gojer - Glögglhof Rondell - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, St. Magdalener
SRP: $26
Medium ruby color. Aromas of roses, violets, rhubarb and clove topped in juicy black cherries and ripe raspberries. A delightfully sour wine with dusty tannins and bright acidity, almost reminds me of a framoise lambic beer. Sour raspberries and cherries mix with spiced tea, rose hips, rhubarb, bay leaf and ginger notes. So delightful and fresh, this is so “drinkable” in the best sense of the word but it also has some structure. Mostly Schiava with some Lagrein blended in. Stainless steel fermentation, aged in large, old oak. (89 points)

2015 Castelfeder Lagrein Rieder - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Südtirol
SRP: $18
Light purple color. Nose explodes with tart currants, black cherries, lots of lavender, grilled herbs, black pepper, a smoky-leathery note, too. Mediu-bodied, medium tannins, refreshing acidity, this wine is wrapped together nicely with juicy red and black cherries and plums. Lots of spicy, herbal tea notes (black pepper, bay leaf, black tea) with some campfire smoke and leather. Could age for a few or benefit from a decant, but this is a very pretty, delicious Lagrein. (89 points)

2016 Muri-Gries Lagrein - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Südtirol
SRP: $17
Light purple color. Peppery burst on the nose with anise, grilled herbs and dry rub spices on top of black cherries and violets. Medium-bodied, balanced nicely with a light dose of tannins and medium acidity. Pure black cherry, tart plum, lots of pepper and clove, leather and smoke, campfire and coffee grounds. Very nice, delicious, complex stuff, this is great now but could actually age for a few years, too. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Summer Sipping Wines Under $20

It’s not officially summer just yet, but it sure feels like it here on the East Coast. And it’s Memorial Day weekend, which means I’ll be grilling, rain or shine. I have been receiving a lot of budget- and summer-friendly wines of late that I wanted to share, so I grouped them together into this report based on several factors.  

Price: I think of summer sippers as those $20 and under bottles that you can pour generously with friends on a summer day. Easy-drinking aesthetic: These are wines that stylistically jive with a picnic, a pool, patio, or beach, wines that don’t require aging, decanting, or much serious thought, yet still provide deliciousness and pleasure. Availability: Most of these wines (some more than others) are quite widely available in markets around the country.  

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.  

White 

2017 Trivento Torrontés White Orchid Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Light yellow color. Wow, what an explosive white peach, lychee and guava nectar on the nose, with white flowers. Juicy texture, refreshing acidity, dry and fresh but the fruit is tropical and nectary, with guava, lychee, and ripe white peaches. Notes of honeysuckle, dandelion and other wild flowers. Quite nice for the price. (86 points)  

2017 Concha y Toro Sauvignon Blanc Casillero del Diablo Reserva - Chile, Casablanca Valley
SRP: $12
Pale lemon color. Aromas burst with grapefruit and limes, along with spicy white pepper and sliced jalapenos. Plump white peach fruit, pineapple, limes, a bright white flower and daisy note, along with some whipped honey and some spicy white pepper and cut floral stem notes. Friendly, accessible stuff, and a good value. (85 points) 

2017 Tasca D'Almerita Sicilia Regaleali Bianco - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $11
Lemon colored with aromas of peaches, pineapples, yellow flowers and honey. Crisp throughout but plump with lots of tropical fruit (pineapple, cantaloupe, green melon, drizzled with lime). I get notes of spicy nettles and white pepper, along with some honeyed white tea. Pretty, zesty, crowd-pleasing, this would be a great summer or sushi white, wonderful value here. A blend of Inzolia, Grecanico and Catarratto. (87 points) 

2017 Peter Zemmer Pinot Grigio - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $18
Pale yellow color. Super peach aromas with guava, limes, notes of dusty limestone and white pepper. Textural depth on the palate is quite nice, crisp but fleshy, with tart lines, pineapples and white peach fruit, generous but tangy. Some stone mineral notes, fresh laundry, and white pepper elements make this a crisp, easy-drinking but solidly complex Pinot Grigio. (88 points) 

2017 Long Shadows Wineries Riesling Nine Hats - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $14
Pale lemon color. Aromas of lemon peel, nectarine, white peach, with a salty, floral perfume combination. Plump texture but refreshing acidity, there’s a nice mixture of tart lemon/lime peel notes with a richer pineapple and mango. Notes of honey, floral potpourri and sea salt. Not too deep, but a perfect dry picnic Riesling that should please a lot of palates. (87 points)

2017 Long Shadows Wineries Pinot Gris Nine Hats - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $14
Light gold color. Nose of daisies, honeysuckle and floral perfume with ripe peaches and pears. Zesty, medium-bodied, a light and fresh appeal with peaches and pineapple flavors. Notes of orange blossoms and lilies. Fun, fresh, fruity, crowd-pleasing stuff. (86 points) 

Rosé 

2017 Tasca D'Almerita Sicilia Regaleali Rosé - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $15
Deep copper color. Nose of nectarines, peaches, apricots, lots of blossoms and spiced white tea, a sea salt note. Punchy and juicy but tangy on the palate with crisp, salty, oceanic influences throughout. Juicy nectarines, blood orange, yellow plums, along with notes of roses and spiced tea. This is delicious rose of Nerello Mascalese, and a total steal at this price. (89 points)
2017 Chronic Cellars Pink Pedals - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $15
Rick pink color. Nose shows strawberry jam, watermelon candies, roses, plump and rich on the nose. Rich texture, a juicy and forward pink with watermelon and cherries and raspberries. Notes of roses and cinnamon candies. Forward, punchy style, but well-made and fun. Grenache with 13% Syrah. (86 points) 

Red 

2016 Bodega Amalaya Malbec - Argentina, Salta
SRP: $16
Rich purple color. Aromas are plummy and full of blackberry, along with mocha, incense cones, charcoal and scorched earth. Medium+ bodied with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Tart plums and black currants mix nicely with roasted coffee, rocky soil, notes of cedar and vanilla. Fun stuff but it shows some moderate complexity. Includes 10% Tannat and 5% Petit Verdot. (88 points) 

2016 Peter Zemmer Pinot Nero Rolhüt - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $18
Light ruby color. Fresh and vibrant aromas of red cherries, strawberries, rose petals, white pepper, spicy herbs. Medium-bodied, fleshy tannins a crisp and chilled approach with strawberries and raspberries, backed up by notes of spiced tea, rose petals and rhubarb. Brisk and fun but quite a bit going on here, too. (88 points) 

2015 Steele Wines Writer's Block Grenache - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $18
Medium ruby color. Aromas of juicy cherries, raspberries and plums along with smoky herbs, rose petals, red apple peel, and cinnamon spice. Medium+ bodied with easy tannins and medium acidity, this is an accessible wine, but not simple. Roasted herbs, tobacco, roses, coffee, this is easy-drinking and fun but shows complexity. All Grenache aged 11 months in French and Hungarian oak, 15% new. (88 points)
2015 Steele Wines Writer's Block Syrah - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $18
Deep ruby, light purple color. A burst of smoky mesquite, black pepper and earth on the nose, along with tart black currants and plums. Full-bodied but fresh with lively acidity and dusty tannins, all woven together nicely. Black cherries and blackberry, laced with cocoa, mesquite, black pepper and violets. Not super deep, but — wow! — this Syrah packs a lot for the price. Sourced from the Cana Springs Vineyard on an eastern slope of the Mayacamas, this wine sees 12 months in 15% new French and Hungarian oak. (89 points) 

2015 Steele Wines Writer's Block Cabernet Sauvignon - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $18
Light purple color. Nose shows crushed currants, tangy plums, along with eucalyptus, tobacco, cedar — lovely aromas. Medium-bodied with surprisingly structured tannins and medium acidity, the wine shows flesh and grip. Plums and currants mixed with tobacco, eucalyptus, violet petals, scorched earth and cocoa. So good for the money, and this can actually age for a few years. Lovely. Sourced from two vineyards in the Clear Lake AVA, and one in Red Hills. (89 points) 

2016 Long Shadows Wineries Nine Hats Red - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $20
Rich purple color. Nose of plums, roasted currants, blackberry jam, some smoke oak, vanilla, coffee. Soft tannins on the palate, medium-bodied, medium acid. Silky and chewy with plums, black cherries and blackberries. Cocoa, cedar, earth and anise. Sweet fruit but fun stuff. Cabernet with 25% apiece of Merlot and Syrah. (85 points) 

2016 Long Shadows Wineries Cabernet Sauvignon Nine Hats - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $20
Bright purple. Tangy red and black currants and cherries with sweet coffee, cocoa powder and cola aromas. Plush and juicy on the palate with medium-soft tannins and medium acidity. Chewy black cherry and blueberry fruit, with coffee grounds, cocoa powder and toasty oak. Easy-drinking, more complex than a lot of Cabs at this price point. Includes some Syrah, Petit Verdot and Merlot. (87 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

This week I have another catch-all report, sourced from various samples received from wine regions around the world. The stars of the show for me are the Don Melchor, which is true to form and so suave, and a killer Merlot from McLaren Vale’s Hickinbotham. Oh, and Spanish producer Arinzano makes another appearance. We also have some more budget-friendly wines from France, Spain and Italy.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Achával-Ferrer Malbec - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $23
Deep ruby color. Aromas of sweet plum, black cherry, roses and violets, mocha and sage. Full-bodied on the palate with medium-light tannins and fresh acidity, this wine goes down easily. Red plums and black cherry fruit, juicy and delicious, with some tangy cranberry spiced jelly, roses, coffee and mocha notes. Accessible texture and flavors but well-built and shows impressive balance. (87 points)

2016 Wolf Blass Chardonnay Blass Reserve Release - Australia, South Australia
SRP: $15
Bright yellow color. Aromas and yellow apples, apricot, honey and butter notes, some almond and vanilla. Medium-bodied (13% alcohol) with juicy, creamy texture and medium acidity. Rich apple fruit, but there’s a shot of lively citrus, too, and notes of honey and clove. Tasty, balanced, good value here. (87 points)

2016 Wolf Blass Red Blend Blass Reserve Release - Australia, South Australia
SRP: $15
Light purple color. Aromas of cola, cocoa, vanilla, on top of sweet plums, blackberry jam. On the palate, this has a plump mouthfeel, medium-body, light tannins. Black cherry and plums mix with smoky charcoal, cocoa, black pepper glaze. Rich fruit but the acidity helps it stay fresh. No grape variety info available. (87 points)

2016 Wolf Blass Cabernet Sauvignon Blass Reserve Release - Australia, South Australia
SRP: $15
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of sweet red and black currant jam, charcoal, eucalyptus, sweet coffee, mocha. On the palate soft tannins, moderate acidity, rich and fruity but fresh. Full of black cherries, raspberry jam, cola, mocha. Accessible and fun but maintains some depth and complexity for the price point. (87 points)

2014 Hickinbotham Merlot The Revivalist - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $75
Crimson color. Unbelievable nose of gushing red and black currants and plums, such depth and purity of fruit with notes of sweet roses, menthol, eucalyptus, cola, cigar box. Full but suave on the palate with surprisingly crisp acidity that keeps the wine fresh, with waves of red cherries and gushing blackberries. Complex notes of cola, violets, charcoal, sweet pipe tobacco, eucalyptus. Gorgeous, velvety, fresh, vibrant now but this will be even better with 5-7 years. All Merlot aged 15 months in French oak. (94 points)

2014 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Don Melchor - Chile, Maipo Valley, Puente Alto

SRP: $125
Bold purple color. Gorgeous aromatic complexity with tart black currants, black cherries, loamy soil, a host of sweet and spicy herbs (lavender, rosemary, black pepper, elements of graphite and smashed rocks. Bold presence on the palate with grippy tannins, lively acidity, such balance and depth in this wine. Crisp black cherry, juicy plums, blackberry, the fruit is bold but vibrant. Earthy, charcoal, black tea, mocha. Beautiful stuff but will be even better in 10 years. Wow, what a gorgeous wine. The 2013 is showing well young while this vintage sleeps. Tar, mocha, cedar and vanilla woven in well. Includes a combined 10% Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, and the wine is aged 50% new French oak. (94 points)

N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Brut Premiere Cuvée - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Yellow color. Aromas of floral perfume along with almonds, apricots, lemon curd and limestone dust. Crisp and zippy, so focused, with a brisk and mineral-heavy presence. Lemon, orange, grapefruit mixed with toasted nuts, chalky minerals, saline. Good depth but a racier, fresher style. About 45% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay, 22% Pinot Meunier, 6 g/l dosage. (90 points)

N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne La Cuvée - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Aromas of buttered biscuits, salted almond, chalk dust, on top of baked yellow apple and quince paste. Nervy acidity frames the palate nicely, with flavors of apple, lemon curd and apricot blend with notes of buttercream, fresh biscuits, bread crumbs. Elements of white flowers, chalk dust and minerals add complexity. Creamy but so zesty, with impressive depth for a Champagne at this price. 55% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier, aged four years, contains about 30% reserve wine. (89 points)

2007 Laurent-Perrier Champagne Brut Millésimé - France, Champagne

SRP: $80
Light gold color. Zesty aromas of lemon, apple, apricot, chalk dust and sea spray, mixed with biscuits, salted almonds, some honeycomb. Lovely creaminess, brisk acidity, precision is impressive. Lemon curd, green and yellow apple, apricot pits, with elements of yellow flowers, cut stems, chalk dust, saline, toasted baguette and flaky biscuits. Delicious now but will evolve nicely over the next few years. 50/50 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, sourced from all Grand Cru vineyards and aged seven years on the lees before disgorgement. (91 points)

2015 Ferraton Père & Fils Crozes-Hermitage La Matinière - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage
SRP: $23
Dark plummy color. Smoky and full of charred herbs and earth, along with sweet plums and black cherries. Medium-bodied with some medium/soft tannins. Juicy black cherries and plums mixed with peppercorns, charcoal smoke, some eucalyptus. Tasty, lighter style for near-term consumption. (87 points)

2015 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Samorëns - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
SRP: $14
Bold purple color. Nose of tart black cherries, red currants, smoky herbs, spicy pepper and violets. Full-bodied with some surprising grip to the tannins, medium-low acidity. Tangy black currants and red cherries with notes of charred herbs, cedar, mint, pine resin. Super fun stuff that has some interesting complexity for a wine at this price point. (88 points)

2016 M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Blanc - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon
SRP: $15
Light yellow color. Aromas of white flowers, sea breeze, clean laundry, on top of green apples and peaches. Pleasantly waxy texture but bright acidity, nice balance, and I get papaya and green apples drizzled with lime. Notes of chalk dust, dandelion, cut flower stems. Delicious, crisp, a reliable buy each vintage. Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Macabeu. (87 points)

2016 M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Rouge - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages
SRP: $15
Bright purple color. Smells of old black cherries, plums, gushing fruit, mixed with sweet violets, roses, sweet coffee and rich earth. Plump and juicy on the palate but some medium tannins and fresh acidity keeps it together well. Smoky charcoal and grilled herbs accent the chewy plums and black cherry fruit. I get notes of violets, loamy soil, clove. Lots going on here for the price. Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. (88 points)

2015 M. Chapoutier Côtes du Roussillon Villages Latour Domaine de Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem - France, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages Latour
SRP: $30
Deep purple color. Deep, complex, savory aromas, with black cherries and dark plums, laced with smoky herbs, leather, mushroom and fallen leaves. Full-bodied with serious grip on the tannins but the acidity frames it well, and the black cherry and dark plum fruit is rich but tangy. Tons of earthy-mineral, clove, spice, leather, black olive, charcoal – complex and savory and delicious, this has a lot to show in the cellar. Consistently one of the best $30 red blends I find coming out of Southern France, and this vintage is no different. Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. (92 points)

2016 Kellerei Bozen Kerner - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $20
Pale lemon color. Aromas of peaches, apricot, lychee, orange blossom and honeysuckle. Plump but crisp on the palate with a medium+ body (14% alcohol), fresh lemon, apricot and lychee fruit. Notes of white tea, chalk, salt mineral notes. Not a lot of depth but quite nice. (87 points)

2014 Cantina Andriano Lagrein Tor di Lupo Riserva - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. Aromatic waves of tart black currants, blackberry, dark and spicy with notes of smashed rocks, anise, spiced black tea. Lively acidity and tight tannic grip frame the palate nicely for the tart black currant and roasted fig fruit. Notes of charcoal, black tea, rocks, minerals, anise. This is spicy, complex but pretty stuff. I’d love to cellar this for five years, but it’d also be a great addition to any dinner table now. (91 points)

2016 Tasca D'Almerita Sicilia Tascante Buonora - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia

SRP: $20
Pale lemon color. So pretty on the nose with lots of peach and pineapple, lemon, along with wildflowers, onion grass, and salty sea breeze. Medium-bodied with a creamy texture supported by bright acidity, with generous helpings of sliced pineapple and green melon drizzled with lime. Notes of seashells and chalk dust and lemon verbena, lovely mineral depth. Plenty of fruit and non-fruit complexity to make it delicious and accessible but serious and worthy of some dynamic food pairings. Made from 100% Carricante. (90 points)

2014 Tasca D'Almerita Sicilia Tascante Ghiaia Nera - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $20
Gorgeous cherry color. Wow, beautiful depth of fruit (red cherry, cranberry, wild raspberry), along with rose petals, chewing tobacco, mint, white pepper. Medium-bodied with nice grip to the tannins, fresh acidity, and lots of tart black and red fruits. Complex elements of leather, spiced coffee, rose petals, chewing tobacco and clove. (88 points)

2014 Tasca D'Almerita Nerello Mascalese il Tascante - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $50
Red cherry color. Bright red cherries, tart red cranberries, lots of clove and earthy spice and leather, with some rose petals and cola. Bright and zippy but some serious grip to the tannins, on a medium-bodied frame. Bright and tart red cherries and cola with spicy herbs and clove and pepper. Really tasty stuff with fun appeal, but impressive complexity, too. Delicious now but this will improve for quite some time. (91 points)

2016 Bodegas As Laxas Rías Baixas Laxas - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas
SRP: $16
Medium gold color. Nose shows peaches and lemons with sea salt and cut flower stems. Creamy but super zesty with flavors of peach, apricot and papaya, topped with flavors of floral perfume, nettle and honeysuckle. Fun, lively stuff. (86 points)

2016 Santiago Ruiz Albariño Rías Baixas - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas
SRP: $19
Pale lemon color. Aromas of peaches, orange blossom, sea salt, cucumber and rainwater. Zesty on the palate with pleasant creaminess, and delicious flavors of sea salt, white flowers, chalk, sliced cucumber, on top of lemons, white peaches and nectarines. Lovely stuff, goes down easy, but quite complex as well. (89 points)

2010 Arinzano Arinzano La Casona - Spain, Navarra, Arinzano

SRP: $40
Rich ruby color. Beautiful aromas of bright red and black cherries, crunchy plums, laced with cocoa, cedar, forest floor, clay pots, chewing tobacco. Full and tannic on the palate but lively acidity lends balance to this young wine. Sweet cherries, dark plums, currants, the fruit is loaded with cocoa, chewing tobacco, eucalyptus, charcoal, and a long, lingering, mineral-laden finish. Still very young with a long life ahead but can show well now with a good decant. 75/25 Tempranillo/Merlot. (92 points)

2012 Arinzano Hacienda de Arinzano - Spain, Navarra, Arinzano
SRP: $20
Bold purple color. Nose is packed with currants and plums, complex elements of incense, charcoal, clay pots, cigar smoke, violets. Grippy tannins, serious structure, but acidity stays fresh, balance is on point. Plums and currants, bold fruit but mixed with complex elements of earth, eucalyptus, pepper, fallen leaves, spicy tobacco. Concentrated but lively with a long life ahead. Tempranillo with 10% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Stellar for the price. (92 points)

2017 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $15
Pale lemon color. Nose shows explosive grapefruit, lime, bell pepper and honeysuckle. Zesty acidity on the palate with all the classic Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc elements firing: grapefruit, lime, white peach, jalapeno and bell pepper. I get some clove and white pepper elements as well. A reliably fun example of this style. (86 points)

2016 Kim Crawford Pinot Noir - New Zealand, South Island
SRP: $19
Medium ruby color. Aromas of spicy red cherries and wild raspberries, along with rhubarb, tobacco and white pepper. Light tannins on the palate, bright acidity, this is a fresh, zesty, food-friendly style with lots of fresh cherries, raspberries, red apple peel. Notes of spicy green herbs, white pepper and tobacco leaf. Reliable, easy-drinking, tasty stuff. (87 points)

<85 points

2016 Abbazia di Novacella (Stiftskellerei Neustift) Müller-Thurgau - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Valle Isarco/Eisacktaler
SRP: $20
Pale lemon color. Aromas of lemons, limes, peaches, flower stems and quinine. Salty and brisk on the palate with tart lemon and under-ripe apricot fruit. Tart, light, underwhelming and watery with a short finish. Pass.

N.V. Delia Tempranillo - Spain
SRP: $7
Medium ruby color. Aromas of spicy red cherries, raspberry leaf, tobacco and dandelion greens. Light/medium-bodied with bright acid and lean tannins. Sour cherries and raspberries blend with tobacco and some coffee. Good for the price but simple and slightly out of whack.

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Pinot Noir from Alsace, Burgundy, Italy & California

It’s time for a lot of Pinot Noir. Well, it’s always time for Pinot, but I recently tasted through a bunch of them from all over the world, most of which are not very expensive.

This report features a few leaner, zestier versions from Alsace, most of which I think over-deliver for the price. Speaking of good prices, we’ve also got some value-driven Pinots from lesser heralded villages in Burgundy. While not exactly thrilling, some of these $20-$25 bottles are seriously good for the money. Lastly, I’ve included a Pinot from Italy and a few from California that I received after I’d already conducted my California Pinot single-blind tastings for the fall.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2014 Domaine Ostertag Pinot Noir “E” - France, Alsace
SRP: $26
Juicy cherry color. Aromas of bright strawberries, red apple peel, rhubarb, white pepper and spiced tea. On the palate, I get brisk acidity with silky tannins, a bit lean in body but so fresh and tangy. Red apple, tart strawberries and red plums combine with complex elements of rose petal, sage, white pepper, tar and spiced black tea. Lovely now but could improve over the next few years. This isn’t a chewy, in-your-face kind of Pinot, but a lean and zesty one. If you like that style, this is really good stuff. (89 points)

2014 J.B. Adam Pinot Noir Alsace Les Natures - France, Alsace
SRP: $25
Light ruby color. Aromas of tart strawberries, white cherries, lots of rhubarb, some roses, black tea, hints of green olive. Medium-bodied with brisk, tart acidity and some dusty tannins for moderate structure. So brisk and bright in its red apple, cranberry sauce and wild strawberry fruit, backed up by white pepper, soy, green olive, the savory spice aspects get more and more complex with air. Deliciously zesty but this has a lot going on. Fermented in century-old casks and aged a year in bottle before release. (88 points)

2008 Hugel et Fils Pinot Noir Jubilee - France, Alsace

Winemaker Etienne Hugel died
earlier this year, way too soon,
but his great wines live on.

SRP: $42
Rich ruby color. Gorgeous nose of raspberry leaf tea, bright strawberries, red currants, topped with nettle, sage, some wet forest floor and mushroom notes as well. Vibrant acidity on the palate, dusty tannins, lots of complexity in this wine and it needs air to open up properly. I get tart red apple and wild raspberry fruit mixed wonderfully with notes of rose petals, savory spices and mushroom. A delicious wine but it’s so elegant and contemplative, too. Still lots of life ahead. From the limestone soils of the Pflostig vineyard. (91 points)

2014 Domaine Barmes-Buecher Pinot Noir Reserve - France, Alsace
SRP: $30
Vibrant rose color Aromas of lush red cherry and raspberry jam, very fruit-forward but lots of roses and sweet spice notes, too. Light/medium-boded with smooth tannins, but enough to frame the wine structurally, bright acidity. Juicy red cherries and raspberries taste so fresh and silky, and I get complex notes of rose petal, clay soil, pepper, bay leaf, and more savory notes come out with time. Plush but tangy, a more voluptuous wine (compared to the others) but it stays precise. Drinking wonderfully but I’d love to revisit in three or four years. (90 points)

N.V. Parigot & Richard Crémant de Bourgogn Rosé - France, Burgundy, Crémant de Bourgogne
SRP : $24
A salmon/copper color. Bright and floral aromas with chalk and toasted bread on top of raspberries, white cherries and rose hips. Fresh acidity, a bit lean, but really fresh and tart. White cherries, tart strawberries and watermelon rind with notes of chalk and cut flowers. (87 points)

2015 Maison Chanzy Rully En Rosey Rouge - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Rully
SRP: $22
Rich ruby color. Smells of juicy raspberries, cranberry sauce, lots of smoke and some pepper and pickling spices. Very smooth on the palate despite some grippy tannins, and the acid keeps it fresh. Darker, juicy black cherries and plum fruit, backed up by violets, dark soil, soy and some coffee. Plush but nicely structured, this is accessible now but really opens up after a few hours, and I’d love to taste it again in two to four years. Another great value, and it really shows some of the high quality but inexpensive options out there in the 2015 vintage. (88 points)

2015 Louis Latour Santenay - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Santenay

Really good Burgundy for $20!

SRP: $20
Medium ruby color. Smells of juicy cherries and red plums with some dusty earth and violet notes. On the palate this shows supple but structured tannins and fresh acidity, a nice balance. Red cherries and plum fruit is juicy and ripe and mixed with notes of dusty earth, violets, sage and some sweet cola. Open and quite pretty but should improve for a few years. Seriously good value right here! (88 points)

2014 Gabriel Billard Bourgogne Cuvée Milliane Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne
SRP : $20
Bright ruby color. Smells of juicy cherries and sweet raspberries. More fruit-forward aromas but the fruit is still tart and lively and I get notes of roses and sweet cola. The acidity is quite tart and the tannins are light. This Pinot shows tangy red apples and wild strawberries along with notes of soil, leather and light roast coffee. Perhaps a bit thin, but it’s a fresh and tangy wine for early consumption. (85 points)

2014 Michel Magnien Fixin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Fixin
SRP: $28
Deep ruby color. Aromas of juicy red cherries and tart raspberries with some tobacco, rose hips and cedar. Medium-bodied, some moderate grip to the tannins, medium acidity. Flavors of darker cherries and raspberry jam, the fruit is touched with tobacco, earth, coffee, some wood and smoky campfire notes. Good stuff but could use some air or a year or two to open up. (87 points)

2014 Benoit Cantin Irancy - France, Burgundy, Côtes d'Auxerre, Irancy
SRP: $24
Medium ruby color. Very bright and tart on the nose with cherries, strawberries, roses and wildflowers. Fresh and zesty on the palate, medium-bodied, light-to-medium tannins, a fine dusty and tart feel to the wine. Tart strawberry and red apple peel blend with light earth tones. Ready to go right out of the bottle, good for those who like a brisker style. (86 points)

2015 Peter Zemmer Pinot Noir Rollhütt - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $18
Vibrant raspberry color. Smells like tangy strawberries, pomegranate and some green pepper, tobacco, raspberry leaf tea and a kick of rhubarb — very interesting aromas. Medium-bodied with light tannins and fresh acidity. Sour cherries mix with sweet strawberries and notes of tobacco, rhubarb and dill. Delicious, fresh, accessible Süditrol Pinot for a very reasonable price. (88 points)

2014 Frank Family Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $35
Pale ruby color. Aromatically rocking with lots of roses, nettle and sage on top of crisp, cool raspberries and cherries — lots of complex aromas pop with air. Full-bodied and velvety with smooth tannin and moderate acidity. Juicy strawberries and raspberry jam play off of cola, rhubarb, rose petal, white pepper, hints of caramel coffee. Rich and voluptuous (and some cellar potential) but it’s also vibrant and absolutely delicious. Aged 10 months in 1/3 new French oak. (89 points)

2014 Equavinity Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $48
Light ruby color. Aromas of juicy raspberry and wild strawberry, crisp red apple peel, topped with rose hips, rhubarb, hints of mint and oregano. Full-bodied but smooth and silky with fine tannins and crisp acidity, makes it refreshing to sip despite richness of texture. Bright notes of red flowers, white pepper, lemon zinger tea, mint and eucalyptus. Lots going on here in terms of complexity and richness, but it’s so fresh and inviting, too. Aged 14 months in 25% new French oak. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.