Isaac James Baker writer, wildlife photographer, climber, hiker, surfer, and all-around fan of wild places and experiences.
Sunday, November 12, 2023
Diversity and value in South American wines
Argentina was one of the first wine regions I really explored. Mostly because, well, it was easy! The grapes were labeled by variety, fruity and accessible, and full of value. But the deeper I dug, the more I found intriguing and complex wines. I’ve been following along ever since, and I always appreciate how the reasonable prices allow a wider audience to check out the offerings.
But if you’re looking to splurge, and want to do so wisely, high-end Chilean Cabernet is a great bet. Long-aging capability, deep and juicy fruit, and a whole lot of spicy, mineral complexity – I love it. From Errazuriz, and the amazing Aconcagua Valley -- the Don Maximo is a stunner.
To spice things up, there’s a Cab Franc from Uruguay as well – which would be a ton of fun in a blind tasting.
These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.
2019 Bodega Otronia Chardonnay Block III & VI - Argentina, Patagonia
SRP: $65
Medium yellow color. The aromas show a rich mix of pineapple, yellow apples, lemon bars, along with notes of honey, nougat, corn husk, along with some salt brine and chalk dust elements. The palate is generous but balanced and focused, with a medium-bodied feel and vibrant acidity. The palate sports lemons, key limes, yellow apples and pears, lovely fruit mixed with nougat, honey, almond bars, and white tea elements. Finishes with a clear, salty appeal. Harmonious and delicious, call me impressed! Fun fact -- this comes from the southernmost winery on the planet. (91 points)
2021 Trapiche Chardonnay Gran Medalla - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $13
Light yellow color. The aromas show ripe oranges, bruised yellow pears, with honey, almond butter, some chalk dust, hints of sea salt and yellow flowers. Ripe and rich on the palate with medium acidity that keeps it fresh, and flavors of candied orange peel and yellow apples and pears. The fruit is backed up by elements of butterscotch and cinnamon crumb cake, but also these chalky, sea salt, almond skin tones. The best of both Chardonnay worlds in this seriously value-driven wine. (88 points)
2021 Domaine Bousquet Pinot Noir Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $18
Light ruby color. A bright and spicy red-fruited aromatic display of cranberry relish, raspberries, strawberries, along with elements of white pepper, rhubarb, dried rose petals, and a mix of black pepper and spice/herb blends. The palate sports zippy acidity, light and dusty tannins, with vibrant red fruits like cranberry relish, crunchy red apples, and fresh strawberries. The fruit is blended well with tones of white pepper, spiced tea, rose hips, along with sage, pickling spices, and other savory tones. Fun, balanced, a real crowd-pleaser but complex and elegant as well. A screaming value. (90 points)
2021 Terrazas de Los Andes Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. Aromas are spicy and saucy with sweet plums, juicy black cherries, mixed with inviting tones of coffee, dark chocolate, and black tea, with spicy-herbal vibes. The palate is smooth, warm, and juicy with soft but chewy tannins and fresh acidity. The fruit has a nice mix of jammy black cherries with tangier red fruits as well (raspberries and strawberries). The earth and herbal tones really add a nice mix to this, with elements of tobacco, black pepper, leather, roasted herbs. Fun, accessible, in a good way. (88 points)
2021 Terrazas de Los Andes Malbec Reserva - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Smells warm and inviting with raspberries, plum sauce, raisins, with roses and violets, savory tones, pepper, milk chocolate. The palate is smooth and ripe with juicy, chewy tannins and moderating acidity. The flavors of raspberries and blackberry jams blend well with tons of gravelly loam, smoky earth, spicy tones of bell pepper and sage, with leather and coffee. Really fun and crushable, but complex and balanced well, too. (88 points)
2019 Terrazas de Los Andes Grand Malbec - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $60
Dark purple color. A concentrated aromatic display of dark plums, cassis, blueberry jam, which is all mixed well with complex elements of smashed rocks, charcoal, graphite, along with mint, chewing tobacco, and coffee grounds – lots do parse through. The palate sports generous texture and lively acidity with medium grip and flavors of tangy cassis and black cherries. The wine is laced with minerals, graphite, smashed rocks, lots of earth, and tones of oregano, black pepper, black tea, violets. Will only get better with time. (91 points)
2019 Mascota Vineyards Pinot Noir Unánime - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco
SRP: $25
Bright ruby color. The nose pops with super fresh, crunchy red fruits (raspberries, cherries, strawberries, along with warm clay, dried roses and violet petals, some mint and tobacco notes. The palate is really fun and accessible, but balanced as well, with supple tannins and fresh acidity to support the black cherry and juicy raspberry fruit. Notes of mint, tobacco, violets, spicy herbs, and black pepper offer a lot of nuance and complexity, with gentle kisses of oak. Pure fun and delicious, but “serious” at the same time. (90 points)
2019 Mascota Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Unánime Signature - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $35
Rich purple color. Complex aromas that sport black cherries, saucy plums, tangy blueberries, backed up with tobacco, graphite, mocha, fallen leaves, and cedar for a warm, inviting appeal. The palate shows refined tannins with vibrant acidity and a smooth and balanced mouthfeel. Flavors of black currants and roasted figs abound, and I get notes of earth, sage, campfire, graphite, Autumn woods. And there’s some coffee grounds, mineral, and dark chocolate shavings on the finish. Suave, ripe, but nuanced and smooth. Great to drink now but could hold as well, and a good call for a holiday party red for the cold weather. Aged 14 months in French oak. (92 points)
2020 Bodega Experimental Cabernet Franc Viña Progreso Overground - Uruguay, Progreso
SRP: $26
Light purple color. Aromas of currant and plum jams kick things off, followed up by a mix of meaty, spicy, peppery, with roasted herbs, black tea, notes of sun-dried tomato and basil. The palate is smooth with fresh acidity and a dusty, chewy feel to the tannins. I get tones of black and red currants, with plum sauce, mixed with tones of smoked meats, black pepper, all sorts of other herbs and spices. I can’t really find another regional Cab Franc to compare this to, it’s just its own thing. (89 points)
2018 Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve - Chile, Aconcagua Valley
SRP: $105
Bright purple color. On the nose, there is a deep core of currants, black cherries, a jar of fig paste you might find at a really nice farmer’s market, along with a complex host of lavender, loamy earth, charcoal, cedar, mint – really needs some time or a good decant to get going. On the palate, this has structured but refined tannins, fresh acidity, and a juicy, tangy frame of dark fruits (black cherries, cassis, dark plums). The wine is packed with nuance and complexity, with waves of savory herbs and spices, tones of minerals, dusty earth, and loam, along with roasted red pepper, lavender, anise, leather. Delicious and complex, harmonious but will reward the patient. Cabernet Sauvignon with some Malbec, this is an absolute stunner and long-term cellar friend. (94 points)
Saturday, April 29, 2023
Exploring the unique wines of Uruguay
I don’t know a ton about Uruguayan wines, but the more I learn, the more I like.
I’ve tasted a few dozen wines from Uruguay before, and enjoyed them. I also appreciate, and seek out, wines from lesser-known regions. Uruguay is no newb to winemaking – the first winery dates back to the 1850s. And unlike other South American wine regions whose terroirs are defined by the Andes Mountains or Pacific Ocean, Uruguay wines hail from the Atlantic Coast-influenced areas near the capital of Montevideo. These days, wineries number about 180, most of which are family-owned. There’s something like 15,000 acres under vine, and most of the grapes are harvested by hand.
I recently dug into a bunch of wines from this hidden South American gem, and I found a lot to love. Uruguay is ripe for wine enthusiast exploration, with plenty of producers and appellations to discover, and reasonable price points that making taking a chance worthwhile.
Tannat is a big player here, and I think that’s great. Yes, it can be big and burly, but even as a varietal wine, Uruguayan producers seem to have this grape dialed in. You get that dark core of fruit and structured tannins, but these wines show tangy acidity and balance, along with plenty of unique spices and nuances. It also makes sense with the local fare – as cows outnumber humans four-to-one in Uruguay, and they eat more meat per capita than any other country. But there’s more than just Tannat, with some blends and whites with vibrant, tropical vibes.
I’m looking forward to digging further into wines from Uruguay and, hopefully, visiting one day to experience the country and culture for myself. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2022 Establecimiento
Juanico Don Pascual Coastal White - Uruguay, Canelones,
Juanicó
SRP: $12
Medium yellow
color. The nose sports a citrus and guava infusion with chalk dust, sea spray,
crushed shells, and hints of white pepper and basil. Crisp, light and floral on
the palate, the acidity is bright and the kiwi and green apple fruit maintain a
crunchy appeal. Racy and oceanic, with sea salt and oyster shells, along with
pleasant, nuanced bits of green onion and white pepper. This has coastal vibes
for days, and really brings a lot of depth and complexity for a wine at this
price point. Albarino, Chardonnay, and Verdejo. Uruguay with the value! (87
points)
2022
Familia Traversa Sauvignon Blanc - Uruguay, Canelones,
Montevideo
SRP: $12
2021
Bodegas Cerro Chapeu Folklore Blanco - Uruguay, Rivera,
Cerro Chapeu
SRP: $20
Light yellow
color. So floral and alive on the nose, with peaches, orange peels, along with
all sorts of tropical and breezy wildflowers. The palate sports a creamy
texture and moderate acidity. Flavors of orange rind, yellow apples, and limes,
the fruit is tropical but zesty, and supported by cool notes of cut flower
stems, dandelion, chalk dust, lots of breezy, airy vibes. Wow, there is a lot
of complexity and depth packed into a wine at this price point. Trebbiano and
30% Malvasia, fermented sur lie in stainless steel for six months. (90 points)
2020
Viña Progreso Cabernet Franc Overground - Uruguay,
Progreso
SRP: $26
Light purple
color. The nose sports tangy currants and plums with a uniquely spicy, meaty
appeal – tones of smoked meats, roasted hillside herbs, sun-warmed spices and
black tea. The palate shows smooth tannins and moderate acidity on a chewy but
vibrant frame, with tart and spicy red and black currants. Savory herbs and
spices, leather, with stony, earthy vibes. Fun and spicy but complex and
nuanced. A unique regional interpretation on this great grape, and I like it.
Versatile, delicious. (89 points)
2018
Antigua Bodega Stagnari Tannat Prima Donna Riberas del Santa Lucia -
Uruguay, Canelones
SRP: $23
Deep purple
color. The nose exudes deep blueberry and roasted figs, along with dark
elements of magic marker, graphite, charcoal, withs some potting soil and
violets. The palate sports a deep and chewy core with grippy tannins and lively
acidity. The fruit is a concentration of dark plums, roasted figs, and
blueberries, matched with notes of mesquite, graphite, black pepper, tobacco.
Spicy and deep but shows mineral vibrancy throughout. Really solid and
age-worthy stuff! All Tannat aged eight months in French oak. (90 points)
2020
Artesana Tannat - Merlot- Zinfandel
Reserva - Uruguay, Canelones
SRP: $23
Juicy purple
color. The nose shows tangy blueberries, tart currants, with a lot of smoky
earth, pepper, anise, tar, dried rose petals. The palate is inky and deep with
chewy tannins and medium+ acidity. Deep, tart, smoky black fruit blends well
with a host of cool spicy and earth tones (paprika, roasted red pepper, campfire
pit, black pepper). Dark coffee and earth on the finish. I love the spice and
darker elements in this wine, and it stays fresh throughout. 55% Tannat, 35%
Merlot, 15% Zinfandel, aged 12 months in French and American oak. (89 points)
2018 El
Capricho Tannat Aguará Special Reserve - Uruguay,
Durazno
SRP: $55
Deep purple
color. The nose is packed with smoky, earthy vibes, tar, and graphite (love
it!) over top of deep blackberries, coffee grounds, dark chocolate. Strong but
refined tannins, moderate acidity balances things nicely. There’s a bold but
welcome presence of barbecue, earth, chorizo, roasted red pepper, which serve
well to accent the black cherry and jammy blackberry fruit. Notes of tar,
menthol, fallen leaves, and graphite add complexity. This could use some time
in the decanter and will age nicely. Impressive! All Tannat aged 18 months in
new French oak. (90 points)
2020
Bodega Garzón Tannat Single Vineyard - Uruguay,
Maldonado
SRP: $29
Dark purple
color. The nose boasts a deep but vibrant core of juicy dark plums and
blueberries, along with potting soil, spiced tea, cocoa, and magic marker
tones. The palate kicks off with grippy tannins and moderating acidity, showing
a deep and concentrated but fresh and suave feel. The blackberry and blueberry
fruit shows a nice dark crunch, and the fruit is mixed with minerals, graphite,
and spicy tones of anise and black pepper. Needs time to show its best, but
there’s a lot to love in here. (90 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
Thursday, October 30, 2014
South American Wines Deliver Awesome Value
There were no epiphanies in this crew, but a whole bunch of reliable wines and smart buys. The wines were received as trade samples and tasted blind for a report on the daily wine blog Terroirist, where this post first appeared.
2012 Trapiche Malbec Oak Cask- Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $10
Bright purple colored. On the nose: smoke, mocha, dark and rich, like plum cake and blackberry cobbler. On the palate, this wine is medium-bodied with very fine and smoothed out tannins, some moderate acid for balance. I like the black olive and cherry cola accents. Fresh and juicy but not simple, and all the elements line up really well. Some mossy rock and coffee notes on the finish. Good stuff for the price. (87 points)
2011 Trapiche Malbec Broquel - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $15
Smoky on the nose, spice and chestnut on top of gushing plums. Fresh acid and firm tannic structure provides backbone, but the mouthfeel is pure velvet. Plummy, dark berry-driven with loads of smoke, earth, cola, cedar and spices. Aged 15 months in 100% new French and American oak. For $15, this is a reliably awesome wine. (88 points)
2012 Bodegas Caro Malbec Aruma- Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $16
Plummy purple color. An aromatic burst of dark plums, boysenberry and black cherries, some loam and cocoa powder notes. Tart, fresh and juicy on the palate with soft tannins and an easy-drinking personality. Black cherries and blackberries, dusted with some pepper and sweet clove. Fun, crowd-pleasing stuff. (86 points)
2012 Viña Santa Rita Sauvignon Blanc Medalla Real Gran Reserva- Chile, San Antonio Valley, Leyda Valley
SRP: $16
A clear straw color. Very fresh and floral on the nose, with honeysuckle and orange blossom on top of green apple and apricot, hint of crushed rocks, actually quite deep and aromatically intriguing. Bright acid, light and crisp on the palate, with green apple peel, kiwi and green melon flavors. Very pretty, with floral perfume undertones and some cucumber water and mineral notes on the finish. Impressed, and craving seafood. (89 points)
2012 Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Cabernet Sauvignon Los Vascos- Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $12
Nose of black and red plums, earth, cinnamon and espresso. Tart on the palate with fine tannins. Plums and black cherry fruit with rhubarb and sweet coffee, some underlying earthy tones Enjoyable and good for the price. (85 points)
2013 Concha y Toro Pedro Jimenez Specialties by Frontera- Chile
SRP: $8
Light yellow color. Smells of white flowers, grapefruit pulp, margarita with lime, a hint of mint. Light and fresh on the palate with tangy lemon and grapefruit, kiwi, some sea salt notes and a hint of lavender perfume. Crisp, fun, fruity, an attractive, especially for summer outdoor summer sipping. 87% Pedro Jimenez, 10% Moscato and 3% Sauvignon Blanc. A rare $8 rec, but I’m into this. (87 points)
2013 Concha y Toro País Specialties by Frontera- Chile
SRP: $8
Bright ruby-cherry color. Smells of sweet cranberry sauce, cherry jam and roses. Juicy and light on the palate with low tannins and medium acid. Plummy, cherry-driven, with notes of sweet roses and pepper. Light, tangy, tasty. (85 points)
2012 Garzón Tannat- Uruguay, Maldonado
SRP: $20
A vibrant magenta color. Nose shows deep blueberry, blackberry and cassis, smoky, charcoal, graphite and pencil lead as well. Juicy, a bit more tart and tangy that structured, the blackberry and cassis fruit tastes tangy and crunchy, with medium+ acid. Full and smoky, with lots of pencil lead and graphite and iron. Some nice smoke and roasted meat undertones. Very impressive for a $20 Uruguayan red. I think it could take a few years to mellow out though. From a vineyard just 11 miles from the Atlantic. (87 points)
Wednesday, May 21, 2014
Wine Reviews: Grab Bag from Bulgaria, Brazil & South Africa
All wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. They’re organized in alphabetical order by country of origin. This post first appeared on Terroirist.
2012 Gnarly Head Malbec - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $12
Aromas of sweet berries, cherry cola and mocha. Fresh and berry-driven on the palate, with gobs of fruit and red licorice and red hot candies, along with some sweet vanilla and floral elements. Some earth undertones on the finish. Easy-drinking, fun, crowd-pleasing stuff, but not complex or evocative. (84 points)
N.V. Salton Intenso Brut - Brazil, Serra Gaúcha
SRP: $15
Gold color with medium bubbles. Aromas of whipped honey, roasted nuts and lemon zest. Creamy with fine bubbles and medium acid. Lemon zest and tart green pears, along with saline and oyster brine notes. Much lighter-bodied than Champagne or other New World Bruts, this reminds me more of a crisp Cremant d’Alsace. A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. (86 points)
2011 Salton Chardonnay Virtude - Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Campanha
SRP: $22
A rich yellow color. Green and yellow apples on the nose, some honeysuckle, toasted marshmallow. Medium+ bodied, medium acid, this wine shows chunky pineapple and mango fruit, along with notes of honey, walnut and toffee. Not all richness and sunshine though, as some grapefruit peel and lemon come out on the finish. A fun, forward Chardonnay. (85 points)
2007 Salton Merlot Desejo - Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Vale dos Vinhedos
SRP: $25
On the nose, a tobacco leaf and rich soil note, with wild raspberries and red plums. Tart acid, a leaner profile, with fine, chalky tannins. Tart cranberries and raspberries lead the way, with undertones of dried leaves, cigar smoke and a flavor that reminds me of crushed nutshells. Very tart and tangy, not rich and silky, but it’s a well-made, food-friendly wine for sure. (87 points)
2009 Salton Talento - Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Bento Gonçalves, Tuiuty
SRP: $22
Much darker on the nose, with black currants, loam, charcoal and vanilla. Medium-bodied, fresh acid combines with some gritty tannins. The black currant and dark plum fruit crackles on the palate. I get some dried leaves, black pepper, soy glaze and tobacco flavors. Drinking well now, but I think this could improve in the cellar. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Tannat. (87 points)
2011 Veni Vidi Vici Chardonnay - Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $9
A very light straw color in the glass. Bright lemon, green apple, river stones and chalk. Light and tangy, like citrus water on the palate. Lemon, green apple peel and tangerine fruit mix with chalk and mineral. I like the brisk and clean approach, but the wine is still quite light and tastes a bit watered down. (81 points)
2012 Veni Vidi Vici Sauvignon Blanc - Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $9
Medium straw color. Grapefruit and sea salt on the nose, along with some white peach and white flowers. High acid on the palate, medium bodied, with green apple peel, grapefruit and apricot. Light, fresh and clean, but lacking depth or intrigue. (83 points)
2011 Veni Vidi Vici Rosé - Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $9
A watermelon-strawberry color. A huge amount of mineral on the nose, like smelling a rock quarry, also some sharp strawberry and lemon zest, along with some white pepper and an aroma that reminds me of sweet pickle relish, seriously. Tangy acid on the palate, this is a bright and brisk wine. I love the wild strawberry and snappy cranberry fruit. Lots of minerals and white pepper in this wine, with some pickle and earth qualities as well. Crisp, clean and pleasant, a Bulgarian rosé that tastes unique, as it should. 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Syrah. (87 points)
2011 Veni Vidi Vici Pinot Noir - Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $9
A light ruby color. Juicy cherries and cranberries on the nose, some red flowers and rhubarb. Medium bodied, tangy acid, a very floral and focused wine, but enough bright red currants and strawberries. Some earth, wet moss and tobacco notes. So fresh, this is one of the better wines I’ve tasted from this producer, and a solid bargain at $9. I’d love to put this on a by-the-glass list because it’s got some broad appeal and a lot of value. (86 points)
2009 Veni Vidi Vici Cabernet Sauvignon - Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $9
Medium ruby color. Smoky and earthy on the nose, like black currants topped with campfire ash and dusty earth. Medium tannins, crisp acid, the currant fruit is tart and crunchy. Earthy, some cedar and cracked pepper. Not too deep or thrilling, but for a bargain-priced Cab this is quite nice. (85 points)
N.V. Blandy Madeira Malmsey 10 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
SRP: $30 (375 ml bottle)
Smells of yellow raisins, caramel, honey, candied pecans and dried apricots. Classic Malmsey richness with some nutty, nougat and caramel sweetness, but lots of dried apricot, mango and mixed nuts. Still fresh though, with a long finish reminiscent of dried flowers, sea brine, saline and pineapple cake. A lot going on, this begs for hard cheeses, dried fruits and mixed nuts. (90 points)
2012 Seven Springs Chardonnay Over the Mountain - South Africa, Overberg
SRP: $16
A light yellow color. On the nose, I get kiwi, tangerine, lime, a bit of cream and a chalky-mineral aspect. The acid really rocks on this wine, providing freshness to the creamy tangerine, kiwi and green pear fruit. There’s a complex mix of chalk, mountain stream, minerals and white flowers. The creaminess comes out a bit on the finish, but this wine is anything but heavy. Full of flavor and intensity, but still maintains an elegant edge. A delicious and lively unoaked Chardonnay. (90 points)
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| This label, designed for the American market, is loaded with value. |
SRP: $16
Nose of white peach, green pear, honeysuckle a hint of green grass. Medium+ acid on the palate. A bit of creaminess-waxy elements to the mouthfeel. Tangy, mineral-driven wine with green apple and green pear fruit, backed up by a sage and white pepper note. Not overly grassy, this actually shows some sea brine elements that I quite like. (87 points)
2011 Seven Springs Pinot Noir Over the Mountain - South Africa, Overberg
SRP: $20
Clear light ruby color. Lovely nose of bright roses, red cherries, strawberries, pepper and underbrush. Again with this producer, it seems like you’re gonna get tangy acid, which I love. Bright red fruits (cherries, strawberries, cranberries) mix with pepper, roasted chestnut, clay soil and dried roses. Old world notes. On the lighter side, but not weak. Love the red flowers here. (88 points)
2010 Seven Springs Syrah Over the Mountain - South Africa, Overberg
SRP: $20
Dark, vibrant purple color. The blackberry and currant fruit smell like they’ve been rolled in pepper and thrown on the grill. High acid and firm grip to the tannins. Tangy plums and black currants blend well with campfire smoke and rich soil aspects. I get some pepper and steak sauce on the finish, but the acid helps it tread lightly on the palate. (88 points)
2012 Campo Viejo Garnacha Rioja - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $12
A dull ruby color. Aromas of ripe cherries, strawberries, red licorice and toast. Easy-drinking tannins and fresh acid blend with juicy black cherries and plums. Some smoke and dark roast coffee, and a flavor that reminds me of red hot candies and red licorice. Fun, party-friendly wine. (84 points)
2013 Bodega Garzón Sauvignon Blanc - Uruguay
SRP: $17
Slight spritz in the glass, with a pale straw color. Aromas of grapefruit, spiced tea and green olives, as strange as that may sound. Tangy and fresh on the palate. The white peach and orange peel blends with jalapeno, white pepper and lemongrass flavors. Crisp, herbal, but more body than your average New Zealand Sauv Blanc. Very food friendly. (87 points)






