Dive into Margaret River wines with Xanadu

Of all the places in the world I have yet to visit, the Margaret River area of Western Australia is high on the bucket list. A life-long surfer, a wine nerd, and a wildlife photographer, it beckons to me with its bright blue hues, hefty waves, and expansive country. But, until then, exploring some of the region’s wonderful wines will have to do.

I recently tried a few wines from a new-to-me label called Xanadu, and their vibrancy and deliciousness briefly transported me to WA. And it was lovely. These wines (classics like Sauv Blanc/Semillon, Chardonnay, and Cab) sport such brightness, tangy fruit, and seem imbued with a sense of wind-swept herbs and sea salt. I’m here for it.

Credit: Xanadu Wines

In Margaret River, the moderating influence of the cold ocean waters combine with gravelly-loam soils to offer growers and winemakers a lovely canvass. Xanadu, with their own unique flavor of classic European varieties, is a great starting point if you’re looking to get into Margaret River wines.

These “Circa 77” line pays homage to the oceanic region and the year when the estate’s first vines were planted. Back then, the region wasn’t well known, and there must’ve been some uncertainty. But the region, and estate, have grown exponentially over the decades. In 2005, the winery was purchased by the Rathbone family, who had previously achieved success with wineries Yering Station and Mount Langi Ghiran.

The wines are crafted by Chief Winemaker Glenn Goddall. Although he’s from New Zealand, and I’m from the East Coast of the U.S., I can relate to his story. He fell in love with the region and its wines while taking a surf trip to Australia in 1989. If I were running around West Oz, I’m not sure I’d want to leave either. 

And with the way costs run these days, and market uncertainties, it’s pretty amazing that these wines are line-priced at $19. 

2023 Xanadu Sauvignon Blanc/Sémillon - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
SRP: $19
Light yellow color. The aromas pop with lemons, kiwi, yellow apple, along with yellow flowers and sea salt (a pleasantly reoccurring theme in these wines). On the palate, this is zippy and crunchy, also showing nice textural depth with slight waxy tones, lovely balance. Green apples and yellow pear fruit mixes well with tones of mint, basil, white pepper, and I get nuances of almond skin, hay, and sea salt. Delicious, versatile, and a lot of fun. 70/30 SB/Semillon. (90 points) 

2022 Xanadu Chardonnay - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
SRP: $19
Light yellow color. Aromas show lemons, kiwi, orange peel, and papaya, dusted with notes of chalk dust, sea salt, and white perfume. Super brisk and bright on the palate but has a pleasantly plush texture, finely balanced, with flavors of lemon/lime, yellow apples, and orange peel. I love the accents of sea salt, white flowers, nuanced graham cracker, and almond skin. Racy but complex, lovely Springtime sipper. No maloactic fermentation, but the wine did undergo lees stirring, and the combination is delightful. Aged 2/3 in used French oak and 1/3 in tank. (92 points) 

2022 Xanadu Cabernet Sauvignon - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
SRP: $19
Light purple color. Smelling this, I get a cool mix of dark, tangy fruit (tart cherry, cranberry relish, black currant jam) with an herbal and earthy blend (mesquite, violets, black tea, rosemary, black pepper). On the palate the zesty acidity kicks off and carries throughout, while the tannins provide a dusty texture. The fruit is crunchy plums, blackberries and red and black currants, tossed with complex notes of mesquite, sage, black pepper. I get notes of mineral and graphite as well. Love the tangy, spicy vibes, this is a complex but trim wine with food-friendly appeal. Includes dashes of Cab Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot, aged 14 months in 20% new French oak. (91 points)

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

It’s time for another grab bag of wine reviews from all over this great big sphere of ours. This batch includes wines from New Zealand, Australia, Chile, Italy and Southern France. We’ve got some serious values in here, as well.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2014 Robert Oatley Chardonnay Signature Series - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
SRP: $17
Light gold color. An almost Sauvignon Blanc-like element of grapefruit and cut grass on the nose, and I get some lime and a salty/chalky quality. Bright acidity on the palate with a medium-body and a slight rounded feel. An interesting mix of grapefruit and lime with bruised apple, almond and caramel. Notes of salt and flowers on the finish. A bit simple, but a pleasantly different style Chardonnay, one with a foot in both camps. 12.5% alcohol, this sees some time in 20% new French oak, no maloactic fermentation. (86 points)

2014 Robert Oatley GSM Signature Series - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $20
Vibrant purple color. Smells of juicy raspberries, black cherries and plums, with sweet flowers, black pepper glaze and eucalyptus. Medium-bodied, some grip to the tannins, medium acidity. Juicy, rich but vibrant – plum sauce black cherries and raspberry jam mixed with pepper, eucalyptus, loamy soil and clove. Fun stuff, very tasty but quite structured and juicy. Cedar and vanilla blended in nicely. 50% Grenache, 45% Shiraz and 5% Mourvedre, this spends 9 months in French oak. (87 points)

2014 Robert Oatley Cabernet Sauvignon Signature Series - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Smells of plums, juicy black cherries and currants with notes of smoky charcoal and eucalyptus. Juicy fruit and texture with fine tannins, buttressed by pleasant acidity. The black and red currant and plum fruit is vibrant, not baked or candied, and the fruit is topped in spicy tobacco, roasted red pepper, eucalyptus and charcoal notes. Integrated elements of cedar and mocha. A very nice wine for the price. (87 points)

2015 Concha y Toro Sauvignon Blanc Gran Reserva Serie Riberas - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $17
Pale straw color. Bursting aromas of lime, white peach and pineapple – nice kick of nettle and honeysuckle with some sliced cucumbers and lemongrass notes. Crisp acidity keeps the lips smacking with this medium-bodied wine. Lime and lemon peel, tangerine, papaya – so much fruit and it’s all bright and crunchy. A bit of chalky minerality to this wine that is quite attractive. The white pepper, cucumber and sliced jalapeno notes are woven in well to the package, and no high-octane grassiness here. From Ucuquer Vineyard near the mouth of the Rapel River. (86 points)

2014 Concha y Toro Carménère Gran Reserva Serie Riberas - Chile, Rapel Valley, Cachapoal Valley, Peumo

SRP: $17
Deep purple color. Rich plum and roasted fig aromas on the nose. The fruit is deep with sweet, saucy notes, and a sense of pine forest and rich soil. Medium-bodied palate with light grip from the tannins, medium acidity keeps it quite fresh. Fruit flavors: plum skin, blackberry, blueberry, deep and saucy fruit. Notes of sweet basil and wet leaves, some coffee and vanilla accents too. Structured but accessible stuff with lots of flavor and deliciousness. Good Carmenere for the price. From Peumo Vineyard in the Cachapoal Valley, includes 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. (86 points)
 
2014 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva Serie Riberas - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $17
Medium purple color. Nose of bright red and black currant fruit laced with tobacco, clove, eucalyptus, vanilla. Full-bodied with some tannic grip and medium acid, and it all combines for a velvety feel. Rich black currant and blueberry fruit but silky-smooth. Pretty texture and lots of spice and herbal notes (pine, tobacco, mocha, vanilla). Gets prettier and prettier with air. Impressive stuff for the price. From the Palo Santo vineyard.

N.V. Ruffino Prosecco - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco
SRP: $12
Pale straw color. Aromas of: bright white and yellow flowers with some sugar cane, white peach and guava nectar. A tropical and floral cocktail of flavors (white peach, pineapple, guava, lime) topped with honey and perfume. Some fresh acidity keeps it vibrant. Simple, fresh, tasty, entry-level Prosecco. (85 points)

2014 Ruffino Chianti - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti
SRP: $10
Smells of tart red fruits (strawberry, raspberry) along with some menthol, tobacco and pine sap. Medium-bodied with soft tannins and fresh acidity. The red apple and cherry fruit is light and crunchy and backed up by some tobacco and pepper. A simple but pleasant entry-level Chianti, this is nice for the price. (85 points)

2011 Caiarossa Pergolaia Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $25
Deep ruby color. Aromas of smoky meat on top of crunchy plums and currants, and I get some tobacco and earth, too. Fleshy but tart approach with dusty tannic structure and bright acidity. Tart plums, spiced cranberry sauce, the fruit mixes nicely with non-fruit complexity: smoke, tar, tobacco, grilled herbs. Very nice now but likely even better in two or three years. A pleasant rusticity but this is not a simple wine. Sangiovese with 10% Cabernet Franc and 3% Merlot. This spends 12-16 months in old oak and then aged in concrete until bottling. (88 points)

2011 Caiarossa Caiarossa Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $65
Vibrant light purple color. Smells of cool berries (blackberry, blueberry, red currant) along with lots of charcoal, smoke, tar, leafy tobacco and some vanilla coffee. Structured tannins, dry but not harsh, moderating acidity keeps it vibrant. Tart red and black currant along with lots of crunchy, juicy plums. Loaded with tobacco, sage, pepper, lots of complex earthy elements. Cedar and roasted coffee woven in very well. Elegant despite significant concentration. Long life ahead. A blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese, Alicante and Syrah. Aged 18 months in 35% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Samorëns Blanc - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
SRP: $14
Light gold color. A bright and floral-driven wine (dandelion, honeysuckle, nettle) with some lemon-lime and apricot. Medium-bodied with a slightly creamy mouthfeel and some moderating acidity. Pear, lime and apricot mix with notes of honey, nettle and sea salt. A plump texture but nice cut and vibrancy to the wine. Not the most complex wine but good stuff for the money. A blend of 60% Grenache Blanc and 40% Clairette. (86 points)

2015 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Samorën Rosé - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
SRP: $14
Pale salmon color. Clean and fresh on the nose with red apple peel, wild raspberry and rose hips. Bright and clean on the palate with vibrant acidity and crunchy fruit (red apple, white cherry, strawberry), along with a hint of white pepper and cut grass. Simple but vibrant stuff. A blend of 75% Grenache with some Syrah and Cinsault. (85 points)

2014 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Samorëns Rouge - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
SRP: $14
Juicy black cherry colored. Peppery and earthy on the nose with some incense sticks and smoke to accent the red and black cherry fruit. Medium-bodied with mild tannins and medium acidity. A chewy but smooth texture lays out for the black cherry and strawberry jam flavors. Notes of incense smoke and grilled herbs add a bit of spice. A blend of 85% Grenache with some Syrah and Cinsault. (85 points)

2015 Mt. Beautiful Sauvignon Blanc - New Zealand, South Island, North Canterbury
SRP: $16
Pale straw color. Smells of ruby red grapefruit and limes topped with white pepper, fresh laundry and crushed chalk. Plump but bright and crisp on the palate. Lemon pith, ruby red grapefruit and kiwi, the fruit is juicy but tangy. Notes of lemongrass, white pepper, chalk and honeysuckle. Tasty and quite complex for the price. Another solid bottle from this producer of reliable and inexpensive wines. (87 points)

2015 Mt. Beautiful Riesling - New Zealand, South Island, North Canterbury
SRP: $22
Lemon-lime color. Brisk and bright on the nose, with wildflowers, chalk, bright limes, lychee and juicy orange, too. The palate is balanced between sweet fruit and bright acidity. A light-bodied wine with an understated approach, but it’s clean and clever and has some exciting flavors (orange, lime, lychee) and notes of chalk, minerals and honeycomb. Lovely clean texture and minerals on the finish. Very impressive for the price. (89 points)

2014 Giesen Sauvignon Blanc The Brothers - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $22
Pale yellow. Bursting aromas of ruby red grapefruit and nectarine, backed up with green pepper, green onion, hops and floral perfume. Crisp acid throughout but a round profile, this wine has integrated flavors of ruby red grapefruit, orange and lime. Great mix of bell pepper, nettle and hops along with honeysuckle and daisies. A classic style, but this is more than typical, it has loads of character with a clean, chalky and mineral-laden finish. Really interesting stuff, worth a shot for those who think all Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs taste the same. (88 points)

2013 Giesen Pinot Noir The Brothers - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough, Wairau Valley
SRP: $30
Light ruby color. Smells of juicy red cherries mixed with tart strawberries and raspberries. I love the rose hips and rhubarb spice elements. Surprisingly full and chewy on the palate (14.5% alcohol), but it sports moderate acidity and fine tannins. Gushing red cherries combine with raspberry jam and strawberry rhubarb pie notes. Spicy pepper, coffee and cedar, the latter is integrated quite well. Interesting in its bold posture and chewy approach, yet it shows vibrant red fruit. For those who like a bigger Pinot but don’t want those baked/black fruit elements. A lot of fun and a cool style. (88 points)

Robert Oatley: Affordable Wines From Classic Australian Regions

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Are you still buying those generic Australian wines with “Southeastern Australia” on the labels? You know what I’m talking about: Little Penguin Chardonnay, Rosemount Estate Cab or — gasp! — even Yellow Tail Shiraz?

If you are, that’s fine. Every wine drinker starts somewhere. But if you’re looking to deepen your experience with Australian wine, and you still don’t want to spend a lot of money, there are other Aussie options. There are plenty of wines that taste like, well, wine, as opposed to factory-churned Kool-Aid.

One producer of such wines is Robert Oatley Vineyards, who produces a wide range of value-driven, fan-friendly wines from vineyards across Australia. Founder Robert Oatley is the man behind Rosemount Estate, the Australian wine behemoth whose diamond label bottles can be found anywhere in America. It seems Robert is taking a more focused approach with this effort; he’s sourcing quality grapes from classic Australian appellations, instead of relying on multi-regional blends. The result is a line of distinctive and affordable wines that are representative of their respective regions.

Robert Oatley Vineyards is run by Robert’s son, Sandy Oatley, and Larry Cherubino, of Cherubino Winery, directs the winemaking. They describe their wines as “authentically Australian wines intentionally suited to the American palate.”

I’m not sure exactly what that means, but my American palate enjoyed these wines quite a bit. And the prices are very attractive.

2012 Robert Oatley Chardonnay Wild Oats - Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

SRP: $15

Aromas of apricot, lemon and orange peel. Creamy, buttery, but lively with acid, grapefruit peel, minerals, lots of tangy lemons. I get some papaya, apricot jam and sweet honey, nervy acid and minerals balance it out. Great value for the money. (87 points)

 

2012 Robert Oatley Chardonnay Signature Series - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River

$17

Nose of lemon curd, daisies, honeycomb, lime, river rocks. On the palate, this is crisp, clean and tangy, only 13% alcohol. The apricot, green apple and lime play well together, and I enjoy the floral, perfumed aspects. Unassuming, lovely stuff, especially for the price. (88 points)

2013 Robert Oatley Riesling Signature Series - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Great Southern

SRP: $17

Light yellow color. Lots of white peach, green pear and lime, some honey and minerals. Tangy acid on the palate, but not austere, with a wonderfully creamy texture. Apricot, green apples and lime juice, all fresh and lively, along with honeyed tea and chalk accents. Dry, crisp, lively, an impressive Aussie Riesling. (88 points)

2012 Robert Oatley Shiraz Signature Series - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale

SRP: $20

Dark purple color. Aromas of black cherries, plums, sweet vanilla and earth. Open on the palate, with a stylish, juicy approach. Blackberries and black cherry jam mixes in with cinnamon and teriyaki notes. Fleshy but not overripe or hot. (87 points)

2011 Robert Oatley Shiraz Wild Oats - Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

SRP: $14

Bright cherry colored. Smells of raspberries and spice tea, some tobacco. Fresh and juicy on the palate, surprisingly tangy, with flavors of roses and clove accenting the red berry fruit. Surprisingly pleasant, especially for the price. (86 points)

2012 Robert Oatley Cabernet Sauvignon Signature Series - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
SRP: $20

Medium ruby color. Spicy aromas mix with blueberry, vanilla and loamy soil. Firm tannins, smooth acid, a plush mouthfeel. Tangy black currants and juicy blueberries are backed up by notes of mocha, charcoal, cigar smoke and eucalyptus. Drinking well now but could hold for a few years. Very good for the price. (88 points)

Tasting Report: New World Cabernet Sauvignon

I don’t drink a lot of cabernet these days, and I’m not exactly sure why. I think I’ve gotten into the habit of defaulting to pinot noir, syrah and red Rhone blends. If I get cabernet in my diet, it usually comes in the form of Bordeaux, a red blend from Sonoma or a Napa cabernet with a few years behind it. But cabernet is grown everywhere and made into every conceivable style. It’s a versatile grape that winemakers love to mix with other red Bordeaux varieties to achieve unique flavors and textures. No matter what you styles you like to drink, there are cabernets out there with your name on them.

In cooperation with my friends at Terroirist.com, I tasted through a bunch of cabernet sauvignons from all across the New World, although most hail from the domestic Mecca of cab, Napa Valley. All wines were received as press samples and tasted blind. I didn’t know anything about the wines except that they were New World cabs.

I was under the assumption I was tasting somewhat young cabernets, so I tried to give each wine several hours of air time and swirling before finalizing my notes and unveiling the wines. This paid off, as many of the wines that smelled and tasted hesitant upon uncorking really opened up and became much more expressive. Cabernet, being such an age-worthy grape, can be tight and harsh when its young, and most of these wines need three-to-five years to show their best stuff.

Here are my notes in alphabetical order by region…

2008 Graffigna Cabernet Sauvignon Centenario Reserve - Argentina, San Juan

$11. On the nose, I get a whole lot of vanilla, along with reduced plums and some mulling spices. On the palate, this wine tastes of tart cherries and under-ripe strawberries. The combination of sour red fruit, bitter tannins and an overdose of oak make this a strange beast. The oak tears up any other flavors. No specific faults, just a poorly-made wine. I came back to the wine several times over the course of a couple of hours, and it never got better. I ended up pouring it down the drain. (74 points)

2010 Pyren Cabernet Sauvignon Broken Quartz - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Pyrenees
$22. Big candied nose of red licorice, purple laffy taffy and vanilla. On the palate, medium-grain tannins, quite low acid on the acid. The red cherry and plum fruit tastes roasted and jammy. The oak on this wine is really intense, making any nuance or subtlety impossible to detect. A candied, raisined, oak-bomb style. The ringer here is the alcohol: 12%?! Strange that a wine so dark and fruity can have such low alcohol, although the oak and jammy fruit make this wine feel as full-bodied as a 15% Aussie shiraz. (85 points)

2010 Robert Oatley Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River - Australia, Western Australia, Margaret River
$17. Aromas of bright raspberries, red currants and red licorice, backed up with some chocolaty oak. Medium-grain tannins and moderate acid. Roasted plums and sweet raspberry flavors abound, as well as rich chocolate-covered cherries and toasty oak. But the cigar smoke and crushed rock flavors make this more than just a fruit bomb. Solid finish. This wine has a rich style, but it’s well-structured and complex. (88 points)

2010 Apaltagua Cabernet Sauvignon Signature - Chile, Maipo Valley
$27. Black currant, cedar, piles of wet leaves, a hint of alcohol on the end of the nose. Firm tannins, medium concentration, perhaps a bit harsh around the edges, but the cherry cola, blackberry fruit and creamy oak add a velvety texture. Dark chocolate and campfire smoke linger onto the finish. Not the most complex cab, but enjoyable. (86 points)

2010 Bartinney Helshoogte Cabernet Sauvignon - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch
$ Unknown. This wine seriously smells like potting soil. Lots of rich, loamy, earthy notes to highlight the roasted plum and smoky blackberry aromas. Fine tannins, medium acid on the palate. Interesting mix of cranberry and black cherry fruit, laced with campfire smoke, loam and cracked pepper. This cabernet has a very rustic approach, one that screams South Africa. (87 points)

The Cali cab reviews are below the fold...