International Wines for Pandemic Times

The coronavirus pandemic is causing havoc the world over. While tasting wines from Italy, Spain, the United States, I can’t help think of how all these places are being upended by this pandemic. I hope you all are staying safe, taking care of yourselves and each other, and also enjoying some good wine and food at home. 

I’ve been trying to cook as much vegetables as I can during these past two weeks of lockdown, and I’ve found myself playing around with lots of Indian and Moroccan spices. Luckily, I had two Pinot Blancs from Alsace to sample that also work really well with the dishes I’ve been slinging. Alsace is where I first fell in love with wine, and it is vibrant, exciting, inexpensive wines like the two in this report that keep me coming back.

This report also includes two wines from Fournier, in Ribera del Duero, which was purchased by Gonzalez Byass in 2019.

And from the U.S. come several Oregon and Washington wines. I’ve been hurling praise at Applegate Valley’s Troon wines for years now. And while I tend to personally enjoy their whites more, these Tannat-based reds are crisp, crunchy and juicy in a way that’s more accessible than most Tannats that I’ve tasted.

Tamarack Cellars offers a whole lot of Washington red goodness for less than $30, and Owen Roe’s wines also make an appearance.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Meyer-Fonné Pinot Blanc Vieilles Vignes - France, Alsace
SRP: $22 

Medium yellow color. The nose has this waxy, honeyed aspect, contrasted with this airy, field of wildflower and clover element, on top of white peach and nectarine. Deep texture, lovely honeyed feel, but lively acidity keeps it moving forward. Apricot, nectarine and papaya fruit blend well with honeysuckle, verbena, and these underlying slate and mineral tones. Round but fresh, this should show some interesting characteristics with age. From granite soils in Katzenthal. (90 points)

2017 Emile Beyer Pinot Blanc Tradition - France, Alsace
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. The nose bursts with peaches, green melon, but also spicy, floral notes of honeysuckle, mint and baby’s breath. Dry and fresh on the palate, this has a waxy, rich texture, but the acidity moderates it well. Kiwi, peach and mango fruit, whipped with honey, white tea, seashells and minerals. There’s a lot on offer here, and a lot of balance between depth and freshness. From clay and limestone soils in Eguisheim. (90 points)

2017 Marchesi de' Frescobaldi Pomino Bianco Riserva Benefizio - Italy, Tuscany, Pomino
SRP: $21
Medium yellow color. Nose of green apples, kiwi, a pleasant mash-up of tennis ball, perfume, flowers, honey and chalk dust. Deep texture on the palate, full-bodied (14.5%) but bright acidity keeps it fresh. Yellow plums, cantaloupe and lemon crème fruit mixes well with whipped butter, toasted nuts, a creamy but balanced wine with underlying flinty mineral tones. Fermented in 50% new French oak with lees aging for 10 months. For fans of richer, creamier style, this Chardonnay also sports freshness and liveliness, though. (89 points)

2016 Fournier Ribera del Duero Crianza - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
SRP: $30
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of juicy raspberries, sweet red cherries and crunchy red plums, with roses, some anise. Suave and velvety on the palate with vibrant acidity and a balanced, fresh appeal, with juicy raspberries and strawberries. Notes of cocoa, rose petals, mint, espresso, there’s a lot going on here, but it’s accessible and lively, too. (88 points)

2014 Fournier Ribera del Duero Reserva - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. Nose shows dark, deep blackberry, along with smoky charcoal, coffee, dark chocolate and anise. Full-bodied, solid grip on the tannins, medium acidity, it is concentrated but not too dense. Deep blueberry and cassis fruit mixes with graphite, mineral and charcoal, with accents of campfire, espresso, dark chocolate. Deep and worthy of cellar time, but it’s has some fun, fresh appeal, too. (90 points)

2017 Troon Vineyard Cuvée Pyrénées - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $65 

Bright violet color. Such vibrant aromas, like chilled plums and black currants, laced with violets, clove, mesquite, leather, warm clay. Medium-bodied on the palate (13.7% alcohol), with bright, tangy acidity and velvety tannins. Juicy plums, raspberries and black cherries, tangy, concentrated fruit, mixed with complex mesquite, graphite, cocoa, violet petals, earth. Lovely, fresh, accessible, but this could improve significantly over the next few years. Gorgeous stuff. 53% Tannat, 47% Malbec, co-fermented. (92 points)

2017 Troon Vineyard Tannat Estate - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Vibrant purple color. Delightfully spicy on the nose, with paprika, pepper, clove, on top of some blackberry and tangy cassis fruit, with dried rose petals and earthy, tar notes. Medium/full-bodied, solid grip but no harsh edges on the tannins – and the acid sings. Dark cherries, blackberries, juicy, crunchy fruit, mixed with potting soil, paved road, graphite, anise and light roast coffee notes. Deep and dark but crunchy and alive as well, this should do well with four or five years of cellaring. (91 points)

2016 Tamarack Cellars Firehouse Red - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $20
Medium purple color. Smells like black cherries, sweet blueberries, saucy plums, with smoky earth, barbecue sauce, clove, dark chocolate. Medium-bodied with velvety tannins, moderate acidity, a pleasantly chewy texture. Plummy, saucy cherry fruit, mixed with barbecue sauce, black pepper glaze, some coffee, cedar and clove. Fun and fresh but this shows a lot of complexity for the price. A kitchen sink blend of Merlot, Syrah, Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Mourvedre, Grenache, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot and Counoise, aged in a mix of 40% new French, American and Hungarian oak. (88 points)

2017 Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Franc - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $30
Vibrant purple color. Deep, dark aromas that take some time to get going, but then it’s all about currants, plums, earth, clay, soy, clove – intriguing stuff. Full, plush, smooth tannins and fresh acidity meet for a well-balanced wine. Fresh currants and black cherries, laced with earth, pepper, violets, clove, soy and tobacco. Nuanced cocoa and cedar woven in well. Delicious now, but this could really use three or four years to show its best. Serious value here. All Cabernet Franc sourced from Weinbau, Ciel du Cheval and Tapteil Vineyards, aged in 30% new French oak. (90 points)

2017 Owen Roe Red Wine Yakima Valley - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley
SRP: $28
Light purple color. Smells like sweet red currants, black cherries, spiced cranberry relish, with violets, black tea, sweet cocoa. Full but suave on the palate, this is smooth but mouth-filling, deep but has a fresh appeal, too. Currants and plums, topped in violets, tobacco, eucalyptus, graphite. Chewy, deep feel, luscious but shows vibrancy and freshness. 59% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 8% Malbec, sourced from Red Willow, Union Gap and DuBrul Vineyards. (90 points)

2018 Owen Roe Sinister Hand - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley
SRP: $27
Light purple color. Nose of candied cherries, candied red apples, juicy, fruity, purple, with sweet tea, cola, some grilled herbs. Full but not heavy, soft/medium tannins, moderate acidity, this shows plenty of juicy red and purple fruits. I get notes of smoky cedar, cola, roses, cranberry relish. Notes of spiced tea, rose petals, barbecue sauce. Fun, early-drinking stuff that should go quickly at cookout parties. 55% Grenache, 19% Syrah, 17% Mourvedre, 9% Cinsault. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: American Grab Bag

This week, I have some wine reviews from New York, California, and Washington.

If you know Finger Lakes wine, you know Dr. Konstantin Frank, a Ukrainian immigrant who contributed so much to viticulture in this country. By producing exceptional wines, and showing what Riesling could do in the Finger Lakes, he earned his spot in the canon of trail-blazing American winemakers. All these years later, the wines are still examples of excellence in American wine.

Napa’s Gratus, contributed wines for this report. This Pope Valley project began in 2010, and the winery now produces about 600 cases per year. These wines were new to me, but I found them vibrant, delicious, and expressive.

Respected Washington producer Tamarack Cellars recently released a 2013 “Emerald Release” Cabernet that blew my mind, and I think it would be a great addition to any Washington Cabernet collector’s cellar.

A few other wines round out this week’s report. I received these wines as trade samples and tasted them sighted.

2017 La Crema Pinot Gris - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Nose shows white peaches, lemon curd, orange blossoms and whipped honey notes. Crisp acidity frames the palate nicely, while the wine sports a waxy, plump texture. Apricots, yellow apples, peach nectar, the fruit is backed up with white pepper and flowers. This shows a lot of depth for a California Pinot Gris at this price point. Lots of fun. (87 points)

2017 Mettler Family Vineyards Albariño Estate Grown - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $20
Medium yellow color. Punchy and tropical on the nose with guava, cantaloupe, pineapple, some yellow flowers and sea salt. Fleshy texture on the palate, but bright acidity, the fruit is rich and generous (creamy yellow apples and pears, guava, pineapple). I get a lot of floral tones, perfume, honey and sea salt. The bright/tropical contrast combination is really working in this Lodi Albarino. (88 points)

2017 Gratus White - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $29
Rich yellow color. Smells of lemon curd, pineapple, glazed pear, with a fascinating note of rainy forest, sea salt, along with some almond and honeycomb. Full-bodied with a plush, waxy texture, yet medium acidity keeps the wine quite lively. Lemon curd, blood orange, pineapple cake and apricot jam flavors, mixed in with spicy clove, white pepper, wet earth, sea salt, some richer almond cake and honey notes as well. Bold but very pretty. 50% Grenache Blanc, 15% Viognier, 15% Marsanne, 15% Roussanne, 5% Picpoul Blanc, aged seven months in old oak. (90 points)

2015 Gratus Malbec - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55

Deep purple color. Smells of plums, gushing blackberries, blueberries, mixed with violets, roses, espresso, eucalyptus, and rocky/earthy elements. I love the acidity on the palate, so fresh, and the velvety tannins make this wine accessible. Suave yet tangy fruit (black cherries, dark currants), topped in violets, mint, eucalyptus, and a blend of black tea, rocky soil and mineral. Oak elements blend in nicely. This is a fresh and vibrant Malbec that really hooked me. 100% Malbec, aged 22 months in 50% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Gratus Petite Sirah - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Rich purple color. Dense aromas of boysenberry, blackberry, blueberry, deep and dark and topped in anise, menthol, ginger snap cookie and vanilla. Full and fleshy on the palate, some serious tannic grip here, while medium acidity moderates. This is a big, saucy, punchy wine with loads of juicy dark fruit, blended well with anise, pepper, vanilla, leather, clove. Dark, bold, this could use three to five years of age. All Petite Sirah aged 22 months in 50% new French oak. (89 points)

2015 Gratus Red - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $75
Medium purple color. Nose boasts juicy black cherries, dark plums, and I get a complex blend of charcoal, graphite, black tea, grilled herbs, clove and cedar. Full but fresh with structured but velvety tannins and vibrant acidity. Juicy black fruit (cherries, currants, plums), whipped together with complex elements of earth, graphite, cocoa, clove, pepper, mint, sweet violets and tobacco. Complex, vibrant, this opens up nicely with time. Lovely now but I’m curious what two or three years will do to this wine. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Malbec, 5% Petite Sirah, aged 22 months in 50% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Gamble Family Vineyards Paramount - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $90
Deep purple color. Deep and saucy on the nose, with roasted fig, blackberry, black currant, all tossed together with warm clove and cinnamon, black tea, vanilla, espresso, mint – a lot going on. Full-bodied with nice grip, but the tannins have rounded edges, and the acidity is really clean, balancing this big wine out really nicely. Flavors of pure blackberry, black currant and roasted fig, backed up with lots of clove, black pepper, spiced black tea, cinnamon sticks, charcoal, graphite scorched earth, vanilla and cedar. So complex, lots of fruit, but serious freshness and aging potential, too. 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot, aged 20 months in 44% new French oak. (92 points)

2015 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Deep purple color. Waves of black cherries and currants on the nose, along with violets, cedar, cocoa, smoky charcoal, and notes of sweet pipe tobacco. Velvety texture on the palate, structured but vibrant, acidity and tannins balance out nicely. Fresh yet rich fruit (black cherries, cassis, dark plums), laced with cedar, espresso, vanilla, sweet pipe tobacco, and a nice earthy-loamy element, too. Nice now but this would do well with 2-4 years in the cellar, and can definitely handle longer. Includes 7% Malbec, 5% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot, aged 20 months in 40% new French, Hungarian and American oak. (91 points)

2017 Dr. Konstantin Frank Rkatsiteli - New York, Finger Lakes
SRP: $17
Pale lemon color. Nose of orange peel, lemons, quince, with notes of lemon verbena, honeysuckle, nettle, bay leaf, sea salt. Plump texture on the palate with racy acidity, the balance is great. Lemons, yellow and green apples, so bright yet the depth of fruit is great. Lots of mineral depth, stones, sea salt, mountain streams. Brisk and sprightly, yet deep and complex. Fascinating stuff. (91 points)

2013 Dr. Konstantin Frank Blanc de Blancs - New York, Finger Lakes
SRP: $30

Light yellow color. Nose boasts yellow apples, apricot, with ginger, baguette, floral perfume, crushed chalk and sea spray. On the palate, this is crisp and nervy with depth that is impressive. Apricot, pear, green and yellow apples, the fruit is accented with these sea salt and crushed oyster shells, along with honeysuckle and ginger and light biscuity notes. Very impressive, a lean style but some impressive depth and that mineral streak is amazing. 100% Chardonnay, aged on the lees four years, 8 g/l dosage. Disgorged September 2018. (91 points)

2016 Dr. Konstantin Frank Riesling Eugenia Dry Riesling - New York, Finger Lakes, Keuka Lake
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. The nose bursts with peach nectar, lime, guava, apricot, along with orange blossom, honey, dusty limestone and new tennis ball. Pristine acidity frames the palate from start to long finish, this is dry, bracing, so brisk and invigorating. Lime, lemon, guava, along with a complex burst of shells, saline, chalk and minerals. Notes of honey and mint add complexity. This is pretty but laser-like, too, offering enjoyment now or, preferably, with 5-10 years of age. Gorgeous Keuka Lake Riesling. 12% alcohol, 0.27% sugar. (92 points)

2013 Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Emerald Release - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $100
Rich purple color. Gorgeous nose of tart currants, blackberries, spiced cranberry sauce, along with serious non-fruit complexity: violets, spearmint, smashed rocks, scorched earth, red pepper flakes, cocoa and vanilla. The palate is full, concentrated, yet lively, with a pure, velvety, effortless feel on the palate despite the density the wine brings. Generous with black cherries, red and black currants, tangy plums, the fruit is plush but shows a tart edge. Complex notes of cocoa, charcoal, rocky soil, flinty minerals, along with cocoa, mint, vanilla. This is gorgeous stuff that will age wonderfully. A blend of wines from all the different vineyard-designated reserve bottlings Tamarack makes, this includes 15% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot, aged four years in 100% new French oak. This vintage is released to celebrate the 20th anniversary of Tamarack Cellars. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Year-End Round-Up

Happy holidays, wine-lovers! I sure hope your holidays are filled with friends, family, fun, and plenty of good wine. As the year wraps up, I have a bunch of wines that didn’t fit neatly into a particular category, so I wanted to include them in my final grab bag report of 2018. And this one has some goodies.

Starting with Argentina’s Domaine Bousquet: Their vineyards, in the Andes foothills appellation of Tupungato, sit in gravelly, sandy soils at about 4,000 feet in elevation. The wines have lots of juicy fruit but the freshness is really attractive, and the balance and depth for their prices is quite impressive.

Ferraton Père & Fils deliver yet again with a pair of sub-$20 Rhone blends, a white and a red, which offer up a lot of class and style in this price point. At $30, M. Chapoutier’s new vintage of the Occultum Lapidem red blend is insanely good, deep, and cellar-worthy.

Italy’s Abruzzi region has a few value-friendly wines in this report, as well as an Amarone that would pair perfectly with a snowstorm and a campfire. Portugal’s Douro provides a few tasty red blends in this report, while I’ve included three American reds from Inconceivable. Lastly, Troon, from Oregon’s Applegate Valley, comes through again with an excellent pair of Tannat-based reds. They excel with all sorts of grapes and wines, and I loved these reds for their uniquely fresh, crunchy, lip-smacking appeal.

All of these wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Domaine Bousquet Chardonnay Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP $18
Medium yellow color. Nose shows honey, peanut brittle, almond and ginger on top of yellow apples and apricots. Plump and rich texturally, but zesty acidity, and the balance is quite nice. Juicy apples and apricot mixed with graham cracker, almond, honeyed white tea, with salty, floral tones, too. Rich but fresh, a nice combination of elements here, this is delicious and good for the price. (88 points)

2017 Domaine Bousquet Malbec Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $18
Rich purple color. Deep and saucy but bright with spiced cranberry sauce, fig paste, smoky blackberries, with pipe tobacco, charcoal pit, and sweet, spiced black tea – lots going on here. Rich texture, velvety tannins, the acidity is vibrant. Tangy black cherries, plum, cranberry jam, with lots of herbal, earthy, spicy elements, an underlying mineral, floral aesthetic. Toffee and cocoa notes woven in nicely. Lots on offer here, but it’s still fresh, fun, and easy-drinking style for consumption over the next few years. Includes 5% apiece of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, aged 10 months in French oak. (90 points)

2017 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Blanc Samorëns - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
SRP: $16
Light yellow color. Juicy peaches and guava, some lemon crème pie, sea salt and honey. Juicy, plump, waxy texture but fresh acidity. Yellow apples, peaches, guava, the fruit is topped in flowers, honey, hay, sea salt. All elements woven in quite nicely, and there’s a delicious mineral kick on the zesty finish. A blend of Clairette and Grenache Blanc. Solid value, loving the freshness. (88 points)

2017 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Villages Rouge Plan de Dieu - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages Plan de Dieu
SRP: $18
Light purple color. Super spicy on the nose, with sage, menthol, black pepper, bay leaf, scorched earth, over top of raspberries and black cherries. Suave and velvety on the palate, medium/full-bodied with moderating acidity. Raspberries, black cherries, plum sauce, the fruit is mixed with anise, pepper, earth and leather. Lots of interesting flavors here, this is really nicely done for the price. 65 % Grenache, 25% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. (88 points)

2016 M. Chapoutier Domaine de Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages Latour
SRP: $30
Deep purple color. Nose of concentrated black currants and dark plums, mixed with lots of violets, menthol, anise, grilled herbs, some leather and pepper, too. Serious grip from the tannins but the acidity is lovely and balancing, and the black fruit is dark and deep but crunchy. Lots of black pepper, sage, mint, coffee anise, this is packed with depth and flavor but stays fresh. This has the stuffing to age and improve for at least a decade. 50% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 20% Carignan from vines averaging 60 years old. (92 points)

2017 Fattoria La Valentina Pecorino - Italy, Abruzzi, Colline Pescaresi IGT
SRP: $16
Deep yellow color. Aromas of pineapple, lemon, papaya, with some flowers and honey. Juicy and plump on the palate with crisp acidity, and flavors of pineapple, apricot and lemon cake. Notes of sea salt, minerals, whipped honey and almond, this is rich and deep but stays lively and crisp, too. Complexity is impressive. All stainless steel. (89 points)

2015 Fattoria La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
SRP: $14
Rich purple color. Plump and juicy on the palate with plump black cherries, cassis, coffee, vanilla. Chewy texture on the palate with medium/light tannins and moderating acidity. Juicy black cherries, plums, topped in smoke, earth, coffee and vanilla. Juicy, accessible, fun stuff. Mostly stainless steel with some Slavonian oak. (86 points)

2015 Fattoria La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva Spelt - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
SRP: $21
Light purple color. Aromas of dark cherries, plums, blackberry, along with earthy, dark flower petals, clove, some leathery notes. Smooth texture on the palate, dusty tannins with moderating acidity, fresh black cherries and plums abound. I get notes of smoky charcoal, leather, mint, clove and earth. Some floral and savory elements on the finish. This is in a good place now but could do well with a few more years. Aged 16 months in Slavonian oak. (90 points)

2013 Pasqua Amarone della Valpolicella - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. The nose shows lots of roasted plums and figs, cassis, violets, and some cool incense, coffee, earth and peppery notes. Full and rich, grippy but not too heavy or harsh, with some medium acidity for balance. Suave but tart black cherries, raisings and roasted figs, backed up with black licorice, coffee, cedar and dark chocolate. Impressive depth, but not heavy, this shows some interesting earthy, savory elements on the finish as well. Cellar-worthy but surprisingly accessible in its youth. 65% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 5% Corvinone and 5% Negrara. (90 points)

2016 Dow Douro Reserva Vale do Bomfim - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $13
Deep purple color. Nose is deep and dark with roasted plums, blackberries, violets, earth, warm black tea. Juicy on the palate, a medium/full-bodied frame with velvety tannins and lively acidity. Dark, saucy fruit (plums and black cherries) mixed with dark chocolate, violets, loamy earth, charcoal. Warm, lovely, dark and earthy but vibrant, this is so good at this price point. (88 points)

2015 Quinta do Vesuvio Douro Pombal do Vesuvio - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $28
Rich purple color. Nose shows lots of plums, black cherries and blackberries, topped in vanilla, cocoa, but also soy and spicy herbs. The palate shows structured tannins (not harsh), moderating acidity, and lots of tangy black cherries and cassis. Quite complex in terms of the pepper, earth, sage, smoky charcoal and mineral tones. Showing well now but will improve over the next few years. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Naciona and Tinta Amarela, aged 10 months in French oak. (89 points)

2015 Inconceivable Wines Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $25
Medium ruby color. Bright red and juicy black cherries, along with sweet raspberry, cola, with cocoa, mint and sweet tobacco. Juicy but really fresh on the palate, with vibrant acidity and smooth, light tannins. Red cherries and juicy plums, tangy but plump fruit, mixed in with notes of roasted chestnut, mint, eucalyptus, cola and roses. A lot going on here for the price. Aged 10 months in 60% new French oak. (88 points)

2014 Inconceivable Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $25
Light purple color. Nose shows tangy black cherries and juicy plums, I get a nice mix of earth, cocoa, cedar and eucalyptus. Full-bodied (14.5%) with slightly chewy tannins and medium acidity. Tangy black currants and cherries, nice zip to the fruit. Mixed in with tobacco, earth, charcoal and some moderate cocoa and cedar. Fun stuff, accessible but nice complexity as well. Includes some Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, this wine spends 23 months in a mix of used and new French oak. (88 points)

2014 Inconceivable Wines Red - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $25
Light purple color. Nose boasts juicy plums and sweet black cherries, along with a nice mix of tobacco, smoky charcoal, pepper and earth. Full-bodied and smooth, light grip to the tannins, not harsh but nice structure, medium acidity, all balanced quite well. Plums, blackberries and tart black cherries mix with tobacco, pepper, leather, soy, some cocoa and vanilla. Complexity and balance is really impressive at this price point. Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Viognier. (90 points)

2016 Troon Vineyard Tannat - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Deep purple color. Tart but deep on the nose, with tangy black cherries, dark plums, and loaded with lavender, violets, roses, inky and coffee and clove. Full-bodied with some serious grip to the tannins, but moderated by lovely acidity. Tart black cherries, cassis, lovely fruit mixed with complex notes of flowers, potpourri, clove, anise, rocky earth. Long, full, complex, I’m stoked to see what this does with five years or so in the cellar. Aged 18 months in mature oak. (90 points)
2016 Troon Vineyard Cuvée Pyrénées - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $60
Bright purple color. Aromas of tart blackberries, sour cherries, black currant, raspberry, such bright and lively fruit mixed in with sage, violets, clove, warm leather and herbs. Crisp and lively acidity from start to finish on the palate, with velvety tannins and vibrant red and black fruit (currants, plums, raspberries), laced with savory herbs, lots of violets and floral potpourri. Deep earthy, mineral element here, too. Vibrant and delicious now but I’d be interested in what this does over the next few years. Tannat and Malbec, co-fermented, aged 18 months in old oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Summer Sipping Wines Under $20

It’s not officially summer just yet, but it sure feels like it here on the East Coast. And it’s Memorial Day weekend, which means I’ll be grilling, rain or shine. I have been receiving a lot of budget- and summer-friendly wines of late that I wanted to share, so I grouped them together into this report based on several factors.  

Price: I think of summer sippers as those $20 and under bottles that you can pour generously with friends on a summer day. Easy-drinking aesthetic: These are wines that stylistically jive with a picnic, a pool, patio, or beach, wines that don’t require aging, decanting, or much serious thought, yet still provide deliciousness and pleasure. Availability: Most of these wines (some more than others) are quite widely available in markets around the country.  

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.  

White 

2017 Trivento Torrontés White Orchid Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Light yellow color. Wow, what an explosive white peach, lychee and guava nectar on the nose, with white flowers. Juicy texture, refreshing acidity, dry and fresh but the fruit is tropical and nectary, with guava, lychee, and ripe white peaches. Notes of honeysuckle, dandelion and other wild flowers. Quite nice for the price. (86 points)  

2017 Concha y Toro Sauvignon Blanc Casillero del Diablo Reserva - Chile, Casablanca Valley
SRP: $12
Pale lemon color. Aromas burst with grapefruit and limes, along with spicy white pepper and sliced jalapenos. Plump white peach fruit, pineapple, limes, a bright white flower and daisy note, along with some whipped honey and some spicy white pepper and cut floral stem notes. Friendly, accessible stuff, and a good value. (85 points) 

2017 Tasca D'Almerita Sicilia Regaleali Bianco - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $11
Lemon colored with aromas of peaches, pineapples, yellow flowers and honey. Crisp throughout but plump with lots of tropical fruit (pineapple, cantaloupe, green melon, drizzled with lime). I get notes of spicy nettles and white pepper, along with some honeyed white tea. Pretty, zesty, crowd-pleasing, this would be a great summer or sushi white, wonderful value here. A blend of Inzolia, Grecanico and Catarratto. (87 points) 

2017 Peter Zemmer Pinot Grigio - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $18
Pale yellow color. Super peach aromas with guava, limes, notes of dusty limestone and white pepper. Textural depth on the palate is quite nice, crisp but fleshy, with tart lines, pineapples and white peach fruit, generous but tangy. Some stone mineral notes, fresh laundry, and white pepper elements make this a crisp, easy-drinking but solidly complex Pinot Grigio. (88 points) 

2017 Long Shadows Wineries Riesling Nine Hats - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $14
Pale lemon color. Aromas of lemon peel, nectarine, white peach, with a salty, floral perfume combination. Plump texture but refreshing acidity, there’s a nice mixture of tart lemon/lime peel notes with a richer pineapple and mango. Notes of honey, floral potpourri and sea salt. Not too deep, but a perfect dry picnic Riesling that should please a lot of palates. (87 points)

2017 Long Shadows Wineries Pinot Gris Nine Hats - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $14
Light gold color. Nose of daisies, honeysuckle and floral perfume with ripe peaches and pears. Zesty, medium-bodied, a light and fresh appeal with peaches and pineapple flavors. Notes of orange blossoms and lilies. Fun, fresh, fruity, crowd-pleasing stuff. (86 points) 

Rosé 

2017 Tasca D'Almerita Sicilia Regaleali Rosé - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $15
Deep copper color. Nose of nectarines, peaches, apricots, lots of blossoms and spiced white tea, a sea salt note. Punchy and juicy but tangy on the palate with crisp, salty, oceanic influences throughout. Juicy nectarines, blood orange, yellow plums, along with notes of roses and spiced tea. This is delicious rose of Nerello Mascalese, and a total steal at this price. (89 points)
2017 Chronic Cellars Pink Pedals - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $15
Rick pink color. Nose shows strawberry jam, watermelon candies, roses, plump and rich on the nose. Rich texture, a juicy and forward pink with watermelon and cherries and raspberries. Notes of roses and cinnamon candies. Forward, punchy style, but well-made and fun. Grenache with 13% Syrah. (86 points) 

Red 

2016 Bodega Amalaya Malbec - Argentina, Salta
SRP: $16
Rich purple color. Aromas are plummy and full of blackberry, along with mocha, incense cones, charcoal and scorched earth. Medium+ bodied with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Tart plums and black currants mix nicely with roasted coffee, rocky soil, notes of cedar and vanilla. Fun stuff but it shows some moderate complexity. Includes 10% Tannat and 5% Petit Verdot. (88 points) 

2016 Peter Zemmer Pinot Nero Rolhüt - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $18
Light ruby color. Fresh and vibrant aromas of red cherries, strawberries, rose petals, white pepper, spicy herbs. Medium-bodied, fleshy tannins a crisp and chilled approach with strawberries and raspberries, backed up by notes of spiced tea, rose petals and rhubarb. Brisk and fun but quite a bit going on here, too. (88 points) 

2015 Steele Wines Writer's Block Grenache - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $18
Medium ruby color. Aromas of juicy cherries, raspberries and plums along with smoky herbs, rose petals, red apple peel, and cinnamon spice. Medium+ bodied with easy tannins and medium acidity, this is an accessible wine, but not simple. Roasted herbs, tobacco, roses, coffee, this is easy-drinking and fun but shows complexity. All Grenache aged 11 months in French and Hungarian oak, 15% new. (88 points)
2015 Steele Wines Writer's Block Syrah - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $18
Deep ruby, light purple color. A burst of smoky mesquite, black pepper and earth on the nose, along with tart black currants and plums. Full-bodied but fresh with lively acidity and dusty tannins, all woven together nicely. Black cherries and blackberry, laced with cocoa, mesquite, black pepper and violets. Not super deep, but — wow! — this Syrah packs a lot for the price. Sourced from the Cana Springs Vineyard on an eastern slope of the Mayacamas, this wine sees 12 months in 15% new French and Hungarian oak. (89 points) 

2015 Steele Wines Writer's Block Cabernet Sauvignon - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $18
Light purple color. Nose shows crushed currants, tangy plums, along with eucalyptus, tobacco, cedar — lovely aromas. Medium-bodied with surprisingly structured tannins and medium acidity, the wine shows flesh and grip. Plums and currants mixed with tobacco, eucalyptus, violet petals, scorched earth and cocoa. So good for the money, and this can actually age for a few years. Lovely. Sourced from two vineyards in the Clear Lake AVA, and one in Red Hills. (89 points) 

2016 Long Shadows Wineries Nine Hats Red - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $20
Rich purple color. Nose of plums, roasted currants, blackberry jam, some smoke oak, vanilla, coffee. Soft tannins on the palate, medium-bodied, medium acid. Silky and chewy with plums, black cherries and blackberries. Cocoa, cedar, earth and anise. Sweet fruit but fun stuff. Cabernet with 25% apiece of Merlot and Syrah. (85 points) 

2016 Long Shadows Wineries Cabernet Sauvignon Nine Hats - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $20
Bright purple. Tangy red and black currants and cherries with sweet coffee, cocoa powder and cola aromas. Plush and juicy on the palate with medium-soft tannins and medium acidity. Chewy black cherry and blueberry fruit, with coffee grounds, cocoa powder and toasty oak. Easy-drinking, more complex than a lot of Cabs at this price point. Includes some Syrah, Petit Verdot and Merlot. (87 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Washington State Gramercy Cellars' Wines Are Aging Gracefully

I’m lucky enough to have tasted a bunch of wines from Gramercy Cellars over the years. Several wine friends of mine had jumped on this Washington State winery bandwagon early, and I benefitted from their generosity and desire to share this exciting producer’s wines with me. I’ve never had a Gramercy wine that did not thrill me, but I’ve also found a common thread when tasting these wines. I always say something like: “This is delicious but it needs more time.”

Recently, I had the pleasure of tasting some Gramercy Cellars wine with some age on them, and the wines all showed wonderfully. For those of you who don’t know the story, Gramercy Cellars was founded in 2005 by Master Somm Greg Harrington and his wife, Pam. Greg, who also makes the wines, knows his stuff. He passed his Master Sommelier exam at the age of 26, and worked in wine programs for chefs like Joyce Goldstein, Emeril Lagasse and Wolfgang Puck. 

They focus on Bordeaux and Rhone varieties, sourced from some amazing sites in Washington State’s Columbia Valley. With an annual production of about 8,000 cases, the winery sports an Old World-inspired style, with lower alcohol, less overt oak influences, and more focus on earthy/savory aspects. 

I tasted through four Gramercy wines with some good friends and barbecue, and came away with a renewed respect for just how delicious these wines are, and how gracefully they age. Notes below…


2007 Gramercy Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley
What a beauty. The fruit is still so boisterous (black cherry, raspberry, juicy plums) but the nose shows all these leather, pepper, herb and spice elements as well. Tannins still going strong but they’re also smooth and velvety and the acidity maintains a tart edge. Pretty currant and plum fruits laced with black pepper, leather, cedar, coffee and stony minerals. Lovely stuff – of course, the last sip at the end of the night was the best. Long time ahead still. (93 points) 

2008 Gramercy Cellars Syrah Lagniappe - Washington, Columbia Valley
Aromas of rich black cherries along with a lot of pepper, leathery, animal hide and beef drippings. Spicy and rich fruit on the palate, tannins provide plenty of structure, medium acidity, the fruit is still going strong but I love the peppery, smoky, olive notes in this wine. (92 points) 

2009 Gramercy Cellars Syrah Lagniappe - Washington, Columbia Valley
Really interesting to taste after the 08. This one shows so much more freshness and vibrancy on the nose with juicy cherries and lots of floral and spice notes. Fresh and bright on the palate but serious grip to the tannins, this is balanced and structured so well. Black cherries and plums laced with pepper, campfire smoke and black olive. Long time ahead still. Lovely. (92 points)

2009 Gramercy Cellars L'idiot du Village - Washington, Columbia Valley
Loved this wine. Tons of aromatic complexity in terms of black cherries, plums, tons of peppered steak and meat drippings. Rich, bold, dry but fresh. Black fruit is rich but tangy and laced with complex leather, pepper, soy and loamy earth. Lovely stuff with plenty of years of cellar potential left. (92 points)

New Releases from California & Washington

Thanksgiving is over — whew! So, now we can talk about something besides wine and Thanksgiving dinner pairings, right? OK, good.

It’s been a busy fall samples season, and I’m still digging out, but I’ve been receiving a ton of California wines (which make up the bulk of this report) and want to highlight some good stuff.

This week includes some wines from Lake County institution Jeb Steele, who always manages to release impressive varietal wines, from various California appellations, for seriously good prices. I also have some delicious Zinfandels from Quivira, Ironstone, and Grgich Hills, sparklers from Mumm, and a few other wines from across the state. Lastly, I received three wines from Washington State producer Mercer, which I had not tried before, but found them very tasty.

All of these wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White wines

2016 Steele Wines Pinot Blanc - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $19
Pale straw color. Nose shows lemon, peaches, yellow flowers, green onion and dandelion notes. On the palate, crisp acidity but a medium+ bodied feel with some waxy texture. Flavors of kumquat, apricot, lemon, notes of almonds and sea salt. Bold presence but stays a bit fresh. Fermented in stainless steel, aged in old oak barrels. (87 points)

2016 Steele Wines Viognier - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $19
Pale yellow color. Nose shows peaches, guava nectar, lemon, yellow flowers and honey, and interesting combo of richness and liveliness for a Viognier. Plump texture on the palate but there is a surprising amount of acidity as well, and plenty of textural depth. Apricot, peach, kumquat fruit, mixed with honey and yellow flowers. Tasty, lively, juicy, tropically delicious stuff. Stainless steel fermented, aged in old oak for four months, this is a seriously food-friendly California Viognier. (88 points)

2016 Ron Rubin Pinot Gris - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Peachy and bright on the nose, with daisies and honeysuckle, green apples, lemon zest. Fresh acidity, voluptuous mouthfeel, laced with orange, peach kiwi, lots of bright fruit backed up with some honey, dandelion, sea salt notes. Tasty stuff. (87 points)

2015 Grgich Hills Fumé Blanc Dry Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $31
Pale lemon color. Aromas of spices and herbs (oregano, lemongrass, white pepper) on top of guava and white peach. Plump texture, bright acidity, sets things nicely for the apricot, white peach and lemon fruit. Notes of honeysuckle, dandelion, baby’s breath, along with white pepper, oregano, sea salt, hints of cream and vanilla. Always a reliably delicious and intriguing Sauvignon Blanc, and 2015 is no exception. This spends six months on the lees in old oak. (90 points)

2016 Quivira Sauvignon Blanc Fig Tree - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $24
Light yellow color. Bursting aromatics of guava, peaches, lemon curd, lemongrass and parsley. Punchy but zesty fruit (lemon, kumquat, guava) on a medium-bodied frame with fresh acidity. Notes of sea salt, nettle, white pepper, parsley, and chalky minerals add complexity. Impressive stuff, especially for the price. (90 points)

2016 Fields Family Wines Vermentino Delu Vineyard - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $21

Medium yellow color. Super peachy aromatics with lemon zest, orange peel, white and yellow flowers, cut stems, baby’s breath. Wow, this is so pretty and balanced, medium-bodied at 12% alcohol with zesty acidity. Lemon, lime, peaches, apricot, the fruit plays so well off of oyster shell, saline, chalk dusty, cut flower stems, a lot of depth and minerality in this wine. Wow, what an incredible California interpretation of this grape. Aged on the lees five months in old French oak. (92 points)

2016 Trefethen Chardonnay - California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll
SRP: $38
Light yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd, yellow apples, lots of daisies and dandelions on top of nougat, roasted nuts and honey. Very exciting acidity on the palate with a medium-bodied frame, plenty of texture and fruit (yellow plums, lemon curd, bruised apples), but lots of freshness, too. Nougat, honeycomb and honeyed white tea notes add complexity. Rich in flavor but vibrant. Less than 10% maloactic fermentation, this spends nine months in about 20% new French oak. (89 points)

2015 La Follette Chardonnay - California, North Coast
SRP: $24
Bright gold color. Juicy yellow apples and baked pears, apricot jam, honeybutter, some floral perfume and roasted nuts. Medium+ bodied, moderate acidity that keeps this wine really fresh, along with green and yellow apples and pears. Notes of honey, salted almonds, cut flower stems. Rich flavor and wide appeal but some impressive freshness, too. (87 points)

2015 La Follette Chardonnay Sangiacomo Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $38
Rich yellow color. Rich aromatic display of apricot jam, lemon curd, buttercream, toasted almonds, and some dusty/chalky elements. Bold textural presence on the palate, moderating acidity keeps if lively, and lots of fruit (apricot, lemon pie, banana), mixed with chalky-floral notes and nougat, vanilla elements. Highly delicious but balanced. (90 points)

2015 Mercer Estates Sauvignon Blanc - Washington, Columbia Valley, Horse Heaven Hills
SRP: $15
Pale straw color. Nose of cut green peppers, lemon, kiwi, oregano, honeysuckle. Crisp acidity frames the palate nicely, medium-bodied, with lemon-lime, apricot, kiwi and sliced apples. Notes of white pepper and honeysuckle. Light, zesty, fun stuff. (86 points)

Sparkling wines

N.V. Mumm Napa Brut Prestige - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $22
Light yellow color. Smells like honey, floral perfume, baked apple, white peaches, some bread crumbs. Zesty on the palate but lots of fruit and texture (apples, peaches, apricots). Notes of honeysuckle, biscuits, chalk and lemon verbena add complexity. Consistent, reliable, a very good California sparkling wine for the price. 18 months on the lees. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Meunier. (88 points)

N.V. Mumm Napa Brut Rosé - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $24
Light strawberry color. Bright aromas of red apple peel, strawberry, some toasted baguette, dandelion, rose hips. On the palate, crisp acidity but some creamy texture and fruit-forward appeal, with red apple, wild raspberry, dandelion, honeysuckle, rose petals and freshly cut stems, juicy and fruity but lots of freshness too. High quality stuff for the price. 80/20 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. (88 points)

Red wines

2015 Quivira Zinfandel - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $25
Deep ruby color. Smells of tart raspberries, sweet plums, spicy herbs, cola, red and black licorice candies. Plump texture on the palate with medium acidity and some light grip from the tannins. Black cherries, raspberries, plum cake, mixed with root beer, sweet herbs, and a dusty/earthy note. Delicious yet vibrant. Co-fermented with a bit of Petite Sirah. (88 points)

2015 Quivira Zinfandel Anderson Ranch - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $42
Bright purple color. Nose of blackberry jam, raspberries, loaded with complex earthy, spicy, tar, peppery notes, and some vanilla and coffee. Bold presence on the palate with serious structure from the tannins, surprisingly vibrant acidity, makes for great balance. Black cherry, raspberry, wild cherry, with tobacco smoke, charcoal, savory herbs, roses, some earthy-mineral tones. Flavorful, pretty, but can age nicely. (91 points)

2015 Ironstone Vineyards Zinfandel Old Vine Reserve Rous - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $30
Rich purple color. Aromas of smooth black cherries, boysenberry, roasted fig, the fruit is suave, mixed with charcoal, sweet black licorice, coffee — wow. Smooth texture on the palate but solid tannic structure, moderating acidity, the balance is lovely. Tart black cherries, sweet blueberries, boysenberry jam, delicious fruit mixed with black licorice candy, coffee grounds, vanilla, and a cool earthy/graphite/mineral component. Delicious but quite complex, a Zinfandel that begs for food and conversation. From a Mokelumne River AVA vineyard first planted in 1909, this spends 10 months in French oak. (91 points)

2013 Grgich Hills Zinfandel - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $36
Medium ruby color. Aromas of tart black cherry, raspberry, red plums, along with leather and roses and eucalyptus – beautiful stuff to sniff. Fresh acidity and dusty tannins work so well on this wine, tinged with black and red berry fruit. Complex elements of coffee, tobacco, leather, roasted chestnut and vanilla. This really opens up with time and shows more pepper and floral elements. I’d love to age this for 3-6 years. (92 points)

2016 Ron Rubin Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley SRP: $25
Light ruby color. Smells of sweet and tart red cherries and strawberries, along with spicy clove, cola, rhubarb. Medium-bodied, medium acidity, light tannins, a fresher, brighter take with strawberries and red cherries, backed up by cola, coffee, rhubarb and cinnamon notes. Fun, bright, food-friendly stuff but shows a solid amount of complexity for an early-drinking wine at this price point. (88 points)

2015 Steele Wines Cabernet Franc - California, North Coast, Lake County

SRP: $19
Light purple color. Tart blackberry, juicy black cherries on the nose, with enticing black pepper, soy, sweet eucalyptus and pine. Such lively, mouth-tingling acidity with moderate tannins for structure, and a frame of tart black cherries. Laced with white pepper, red pepper flakes, incense sticks, eucalyptus and cedar. A Loire throwback with juicy but tangy California fruit – this can improve for a few years easily. Sourced from the Stymie Bench Vineyard from within the Kelsey Bench Ava, this wine is aged 14 months in 30% new American oak. (90 points)

2015 Steele Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $28
Light purple color. Nose of sweet plums and jammy blackberries and cherries, along with cocoa, violet petals, fall leaves, vanilla, lovely. Medium+ bodied with fleshy tannins and moderating acidity, juicy but bright with plums and blackberry fruit. Smooth and pretty with lots of spicy chewing tobacco, pepper, graphite and fallen leaves, mixing well with vanilla and cocoa. Delicious, and really good for the price. Aged 18 months in 30% new French and American oak. (89 points)

2013 Mi Sueño Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $75
Deep purple color. Dense aromas of crushed blackberries, blueberries and black currant jam, with waves of sweet mocha, coconut, eucalyptus and rich earth. Rich on the palate with suave tannins, medium-low acidity, and plenty of dark, rich fruit. Plenty of coconut, mocha, sweet herbs, eucalyptus, coffee – plenty of complex, earthy notes as well. Delicious now but can improve for years. All Cabernet aged 24 months in 55% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Trefethen Cabernet Sauvignon Oak Knoll - California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll
SRP: $60
Rich purple color. Dark and suave on the nose with black currants, blackberries, lots of earthy, charcoal, smoky elements and sweet cola. Rich texture, dark plum and currant fruit, structured tannins, but some vibrant acidity. Lots of complex vanilla, earth, charcoal, sweet pipe tobacco, library books, leather – a lot of interesting elements that will evolve well over time. Includes 6% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot and 4% Malbec, this wine is aged 18 months in about half new oak (mix of French, American, Hungarian). (91 points)

2015 Mercer Estates Sharp Sisters - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $25
Rich, saucy aromas of plum cake and black cherry mixed with cocoa, pepper, save, violets. Plush fruit on the palate (black cherry, tart plums) on a frame of fleshy tannins and medium acidity, balanced quite nicely. Notes of savory spice and beef, the fruit is hedonistic but the vibrancy and food-friendly nature of the wine is really attractive. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Grenache, Carignan, aged 18 months in French and American oak. (90 points)

2015 Mercer Estates Malbec - Washington, Columbia Valley, Horse Heaven Hills
SRP: $25
Deep purple. Nose of tart black currants and plums, sweet coffee, violets, magic markers, anise cookie. Full but plush with some structured tannins and bright acidity. Crunchy blackberry, blueberry and dark plums laced with anise, cedar, coffee, mocha. Suave, silky, delicious now but this could age. Includes 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 18 months in French and American oak. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Bold Reds from Walla Walla Valley Producer Cadaretta

When it comes to thrilling red blends, Washington’s Walla Walla Valley seems practically inexhaustible. One producer that has popped up on my radar over the years is Cadaretta, whose rich but suave wines I’ve enjoyed and reviewed in the past.

Cadaretta is owned by the Middleton family and their Anderson & Middleton Company, which began in the timber business near the turn of the 20^th Century, before expanding into table grapes and, eventually, wine.

Their estate Southwind Vineyard is home to some 60 acres of grapes, with future plantings planned. The wines are made by Kendall Mix, who studied enology and viticulture at UC Davis and has worked at Robert Mondavi, R.H. Phillips. Kendall also spent 10 years making red wines for Washington wine heavyweight Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Canoe Ridge Estate, among other jobs.

These are dark and saucy red wines with a good amount of new oak evident, but they show a lot of complex non-fruit elements and some serious potential for cellaring. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2014 Cadaretta Syrah - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley

SRP: $35

Light purple color. Nose of dark plums, blueberries black cherries, cracked pepper, leather and loam. Full but silky with rounded tannins and moderate acidity. Rich fruit but shows a tart edge, plum, currant, blueberry, and the fruit is laced with notes of dark roast coffee, eucalyptus, cedar, leather, violets. A lot going on here. Good now but should do nicely with 2-4 years. Aged 21 months in 60% new French oak. (89 points)

2014 Cadaretta Southwind - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley

SRP: $75

Bold purple color. Nose shows rich plums, blackberries, fig paste, charcoal, sweet violets and clove. Rich, chewy but deep and earthy, suave tannins and medium/low acidity. Rich waves of plums and blackberries laced with violets, sage, bay leaf, clove, cocoa powder. Complex, deep, delicious now but could improve for five years and then some. 37% Malbec, 37% Petit Verdot, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 23 months in 60% new French oak, 14.6% alcohol. (91 points)

2013 Cadaretta Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley

SRP: $45

Rich purple color. Aromas of juicy black currants and blackberries, with mocha, topsoil, cedar, anise and charcoal. Full and dark on the palate with some solid grip from the tannins, medium acidity. Rich but tangy black and blue fruits, with lots of charcoal, loamy soil, smashed rocks, anise, eucalyptus, dark chocolate shavings. Solid, bold wine that could age for at least a few years but it is delicious now. 9% Petit Verdot, 6% Merlot, 5% Malbec, aged 22 months in mostly French oak. (89 points)

2014 Cadaretta Springboard - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley

SRP: $50

Light purple color. Inky but tart aromas of black and red plums, roses, violets, loam, tobacco and eucalyptus. Medium/full-bodied with velvety but strong tannins, rich but tangy red and black currant and plum fruit. Notes of smoky herbs and tobacco mix with dark earth, clove, cedar, graphite, shows a lot of balance and accessibility despite the density. 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Malbec, 9% Petit Verdot, aged in 60% new French oak. (89 points)

2014 Cadaretta Windthrow - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley

SRP: $50

Light purple color. Nose shows tart black cherries, plum skins, pepper, sage, violets, coffee grounds. Structured broadly and grippy but some smoothness already, moderated by fresh, balanced acidity. Tart black cherries, blueberries, plum skins, laced with black pepper, smoky charcoal, leather, vanilla and cedar. Lovely complexity, depth for cellaring, but pleasurable and delicious now. 76% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre, 9% Grenache, aged 22 months in half new Hungarian oak and 40% new French oak. (90 points)

2014 Cadaretta Cabernet Sauvignon Southwind - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley

SRP: $75

Rich purple color. Dark but tangy red and black currant fruit, lots of violets, eucalyptus, violets, pepper, coffee, deep but evocative, too. Full-bodied, velvety but structured tannins, moderate acidity, the balance is very nice. Tangy black currant and suave blueberry fruit, rich and saucy but vibrant, loaded with black pepper glaze, soy, coffee grounds, eucalyptus, sweet cola, graphite – so many complex flavors to coax out. This will pay off years in the cellar or a solid decant. Includes 5% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot, aged 23 months in 60% new French oak. (91 points) 


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: Washington State's Cadaretta

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Cadaretta is a small producer based in Walla Walla, which was established in 2005 by the Middleton family. They produce a Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend, a Cab Sauv, a Syrah, and a Rhone blend. Most of the wines are sold to mailing list customers, winery visitors and a handful of retailers and restaurants. The wines are solid across the board, and, while not inexpensive, they’re delicious.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2015 Cadaretta SBS - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $23
Pale lemon color. Smells of lemongrass, cut flower stems, sea salt, honeysuckle, on top of lemon and apricot fruit. Plump texture but tart acidity on the palate. The green apple, lemon/lime and apricot fruit is vibrant but crunchy, and I get notes of cucumber water, wildflowers, candle wax, honeyed tea. Lots going on here but it retains a fresh and easy-sipping appeal. 89% Sauvignon Blanc and 11% Sémillon, all stainless steel with three months of lees contact. (87 points)

2012 Cadaretta Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $50
Vibrant purple color. Explosive nose of bright but juicy red and black currants, plums, topped with eucalyptus, cedar shavings, menthol and a rich soil note. Full-bodied with velvety but structured tannins and a nice kick of acidity to keep the wine moving forward. Black currant and dark plum skins mix with a host of complex flavors: eucalyptus, coffee, tar, tobacco leaf, cedar and vanilla. A rich but balanced wine that should unravel nicely over the next 3-5 years. Includes 6% Petit Verdot and 5% Merlot, aged 20 months in 90% new French oak. (89 points) 

2013 Cadaretta Syrah - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $35
Deep purple color. Smells of black cherries, blackberries, roasted plums, add in some smoke, spicy pepper, coffee and vanilla. Full and saucy on the palate with fleshy but grippy tannins and medium acidity, which adds a nice tart edge. Black currant and blackberry jam fruit blends nicely with smoke, charcoal and pepper. I also get some nice kicks of coffee, vanilla and warm mocha. Rich but quite complex, showing some aging potential in the near future. Includes 11% Mourvedre, 5% Grenache and 2% Viognier. Aged 21 months in French and American oak. (89 points)

2013 Cadaretta Windthrow - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $60
Vibrant purple color. On the nose: tart black currants and juicy black cherries, a real sense of leather (like a new leather jacket), pepper, sweet coffee and roasted nuts. Full and mouth-filling with medium strength tannins and a fresh shot of acidity that keeps it moving forward. Tart black cherries and blackberry jam mix with smoke, tar, leather and pepper. A woody, cigar lounge aspect and the oak is integrated quite well. Will be better in a few years but very nice stuff. 75% Syrah, 17% Mourvedre and 8% Cinsault. Aged 17 months in 1/3 new French oak. (88 points)