International Grab Bag: New Releases Under $30

This week, I’ve got a round-up of recent samples from all over, all of which cost less than $30.

William Fèvre, known for ethereal Premier and Grand Cru Chablis, has an entry-level new release that offers a bit of everything I look for in a Chablis, and it’s a really solid buy at $25.

M. Chapoutier’s Domaine de Bila-Haut brand, always reliably good for the money, delivers again with their L'Esquerda red blend, a serious wine that brings a lot of complexity and aging potential.

Included in this report are a handful of wines from all over Italy (Veneto, Tuscany, Piedmont), all of which cost $30 or less.

Lastly, I tasted two whites and a pink from the Spanish region of Cariñena, all of which cost less than $15. It’s still summer, and these three wines pack a whole lot of goodness for their price points. Oh, and a “Game of Thrones” branded Pinot Noir, because… well…

All of these wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2017 William Fèvre Chablis Champs Royaux SEA Limited Edition - France, Burgundy, Chablis
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Aromas of white peaches, lemons, honeysuckle and seashells. Medium-bodied on the palate with a brisk and fresh appeal and plenty of acidity. Lemon curd and orange peel mix nicely with saline, seashells and ocean spray notes, with some dusty minerals that linger onto the finish. A lot of depth for an entry-level Chablis at this price point. (89 points)

2016 M. Chapoutier Côtes du Roussillon Villages Domaine de Bila-Haut L'Esquerda - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Dark and saucy black currants, juicy black cherries, along with complex elements roasted herbs, cracked black pepper, leather, cocoa. Plump and juicy with medium tannins and medium-low acidity. Black cherries, black currants, roasted fig, the fruit mixes with spicy black pepper, sage, grilled rosemary, with deeper notes of dark chocolate, espresso, vanilla and scorches earth. Put together so well, this should age nicely, too, but ready to go now. Syrah, Grenache and Carignan from a single vineyard, 40- to 60-year-old vines. (90 points)

N.V. La Marca Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore Luminore - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Congliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore
SRP: $25
Bursting nose of fresh lemons and limes, dusty chalk, notes of dandelion and baby’s breath. On the palate this is crisp and quite dry, light-bodied but texturally interesting. Lemon-lime, some melon peel, with notes of white flowers, cut flower stems, chalk dusty. Fresh and bright and a lot of fun. A step-up Prosecco that is not to be dismissed. (88 points)

2016 Pieropan Soave Classico - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
SRP: $20
Rich yellow color. Aromas of bruised yellow apples, creamy peach, with honeybutter, some nutty-salty notes. Plump texture on the palate with bright acidity on a medium-bodied frame. Apples and peaches play well off of floral perfume, whipped butter, notes of salt and almond. A bit lacking on the finish, but fun and tasty stuff. 85 Garganega and 15% Trebbiao. (86 points)

2016 Jermann Vinnaioli Pinot Grigio - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT
SRP: $30
Medium yellow color. Steely and salty aromas with grapefruit, green apples, honeysuckle and dandelion. Brisk and fresh, light and breezy, but some interesting creamy texture and minerality. Yellow and green apples mixed with floral perfume, magnolia flowers and honeysuckle. Fresh and fun, but it has a lot more skill and punching power than many Pinot Grigios from this region. Sourced from two vineyards in Collio. (90 points)

2015 Argiano Non Confunditur Toscana - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $23
Bright ruby color. Nose shows tart raspberries, red currant jam, spicy strawberries, with notes of tobacco leaf, rose petal and spicy pepper. On the palate, this is a medium/full-bodied wine with quite smooth tannins and moderate acidity. Flavors of tart red currant and raspberry mix with black pepper, spicy tobacco and scorched earth. Simple, fun, pleasant. Cabernet, Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah. (87 points)

2017 Rocca di Montemassi Renaissance Rosé - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $17
Very pale copper color. Smells of white cherries, watermelon, along with thistle, baby’s breath, a wild green herb and honeysuckle component that I find interesting, too. Medium-bodied, fresh and zippy but a pleasant plumpness on the palate, too. White cherries and wild strawberries mix with bright white flowers, wild green herbs and a spicy herbal tea note. Fresh, inviting, but showing complexity, too. A blend of Sangiovese and Syrah from Maremma. (88 points)

2014 Allegrini Palazzo della Torre Veronese - Italy, Veneto, Veronese IGT
SRP: $23
Rich purple color. I get aromas of roasted figs and plum sauce, with violets, vanilla and coffee grounds. Rich and plush on the palate with velvety tannins and fresh acidity. Flavors of roasted fig, black currant jam, topped in anise, espresso, black pepper and tobacco. Full, warm and rich, but also tangy. A blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Sangiovese, this is a solid value for this style and price. (88 points)  

2016 Renato Ratti Barbera d'Alba Battaglione - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba
SRP: $20
Rich purple color. Smoky aromas of charcoal, anise and graphite on top of generous black cherries and dark plums. Fresh and fleshy on the palate, fun stuff with medium acidity and plush tannins, but this shows a bit of complexity too. Black cherries, tart and crunchy red currants and plums mix with anise, violets, smoky tobacco, cinnamon. Fun and easy-drinking but not simple, this opens up nicely with some air. (88 points)

2016 Seven Kingdoms Wines Pinot Noir Game of Thrones - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
SRP: $20
Pretty, deep ruby color. Aromas of strawberries, bright cherries, cola, some chai tea and cedar. Juicy and full with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Cherries and red currant jam flaors mix with some sweet tobacco and cedar. Big and boastful but shows some balance as well. A fun Pinot for early drinking. (86 points)

2016 Bodegas Virgen del Águila Agoston Viura & Chardonnay - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena
SRP: $9
Very pale color. Steel and bright on the nose with white flowers, lime pit, lemon wedges and sea salt. Zesty and bright on the palate on an easy-drinking frame with flavors of lemon-lime and green apple. Floral perfume, cucumber, white pepper flavors. Simple, fresh, fun summer sipper. (85 points)

2017 Grandes Vinos y Viñedos Corona de Aragón Garnacha Blanca - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena
SRP: $9
Pale straw color. Aromas of peaches, limes, oranges and lychee, topped with sea salt and honeysuckle. Precise and fresh on the palate with fun stony-salty qualities. Lemon, white peach and oranges mixed with floral perfume and a steel, zesty appeal. Lots of fun, showing some good complexity at this price point. (87 points)

2016 Bodegas San Valero Garnacha Rosado Origium - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena
SRP: $15
Almost neon cherry color in the glass. Loving the spicy aromatics of green herbs, white pepper, nettle, on top of watermelon, red cherries and pomegranate. Bright and crisp but super fruit, as the watermelon, raspberry and pomegranate fruit offer a lot to love. Stays fresh, with lots of spicy elements like herbal tea, nettle, rose hips. Delicious, fun, lots going on for the price. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Exciting New Releases from Oregon

I’m a huge Oregon wine-lover, and I’m always excited to taste whatever I can. The sample size this week is small, but the wines are all high quality examples.

The two new releases from Troon Vineyard (a Montepulciano and Sangiovese) are really exciting. Lighter style (11.5 and 12.5% alcohol), the grapes are sourced from a vineyard in Applegate Valley, fermented with wild yeasts, and aged 12 months in all old French oak. I’ve long been a big fan of Troon’s Rhone variety wines, but apparently they can excel with all sorts of varieties out there.

Elouan, a new Oregon Pinot Noir project from well-known California winemaker, Joe Wagner, deliver a whole lot of Oregonian Pinot goodness for the price.

And the new vintage of Gran Moraine Chardonnay is an incredible follow-up to the 2014 vintage, and it reinforces my impression that this is a stunning Oregon Chardonnay, one to watch in the future for sure.  

This wine were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Elouan Pinot Noir Missoulan Wash Reserve - Oregon, Willamette Valley

SRP: $40

Deep ruby color. Aromas of black cherries, red currants, rhubarb, clove, coffee, lovely mix of rich aromas. Full-bodied with medium acidity and velvety tannins, this is a chewy and bold style but the wine still stays bright. Rich cherry and raspberry jam flavors laced with coffee, clove, black tea. Bold and packed with deliciousness but also lively and complex. (90 points)

2016 Elouan Pinot Noir Klamath's Kettle Reserve - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Rogue Valley

SRP: $40

Deep ruby color. Aromas of jammy strawberries and cherries, with rhubarb, roses, coffee, warm spices, clove, vanilla. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, with velvety tannins, along with tangy cherries and jammy raspberries, along with complex elements of cinnamon, rhubarb, clove, coffee. This could use a few years, but it’s impressive now. (91 points) 

2015 Gran Moraine Chardonnay - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $45

Light yellow color. Complex aromas of limestone, wet river rocks, chalk dust, with honey, lemon curd, lemon meringue and salted almond. So vibrant and crisp on the palate, gorgeous texture and depth but stays brisk. Apricot, limes, lemon curd, the fruit is doused in saline, mineral, sea salt, white tea, honeyed biscuits and salted almond. Complex, deep, refreshing, delicious, this is insanely good stuff. The wine spends 16 months in a combination of French oak and stainless steel. (94 points)

2016 Troon Vineyard Sangiovese White Family Vineyard - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley

SRP: $25

Light ruby color. Bright aromas of chilled strawberries and red cherries, mixed with rose petals, violets, sage, wild herbs. Crisp acidity frames the palate so nicely on this medium-bodied wine (12.5% alcohol), dusty/light tannins. Bright cherries, raspberries, red apple fruit, topped with roses, clove, cinnamon, earth, soy and white pepper. A refreshing, brisk but serious Sangiovese. (91 points)

2016 Troon Vineyard Montepulciano White Family Vineyard - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley

SRP: $25

Bright ruby color. Spicy aromas of raspberry leaf, white and green peppercorns, rose hips, on top of red apple peel and crisp strawberries. Bright and refreshing on the palate with light tannins and an easy-going appeal, yet the flavors of quite complex. Strawberry, raspberry, red apple, along with complex herbal, spice, tobacco and potpourri. Wow, what can’t Troon do in Applegate Valley? (90 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Zachy’s Makes an Extravagant Splash in DC Wine Scene

New York-based wine importer, auction house and wine behemoth, Zachy’s, opened up shop here in Washington, DC, earlier this year, and I’m happy to have them as part of this dynamic wine scene.

They’ve been hosting tastings, seminars, auctions, and other wine events for a few months now, trying to attract savvy DC-area wine-lovers, of which there are many. I’ve been to a few events and have been impressed with the wines, the staff (some friends of mine), and service. For more info on Zachy’s DC branch and their wine sales, events, and storage facility, click here.

This fall, I attended a large tasting organized by Zachy’s at DC’s Longview Gallery. It was a massive event with hundreds of wines, and unfortunately I didn’t have the time or palate ability to taste and take notes on all of them. 

But here is a good spread of some epic wines...

2016 Peter Lauer Ayler Riesling Senior Faß 6 (Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer)
$28

Complex, deep aromatics. Crazy mineral depth, pristine fruit and floral tones. Wow, this is gorgeous young but will be phenomenal in a decade. (93 points)

2016 Peter Lauer Riesling Barrel X (Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer)
$21
Incredible how complex this wine is already. Acidity is precise, texture is intriguing, pure fruit and tons of mineral depth. Wow, this will be something special in a decade but really exciting now. (91 points)

2015 Lioco Chardonnay Estero (USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley)
$30
Another data point in support of my argument that Lioco Chardonnays are most excellent. This is pretty, vibrant, complex, fascinating stuff. Balanced between lighter body and intense acidity with complex fruit flavors, mineral and oceanic notes, some honey and nougat. Love it. (92 points)

2015 Lioco Pinot Noir Laguna (USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast)
$39
Tart red fruits, bright acidity, nice grip to the dusty tannins, lots of pomegranate, crunchy cherries, some complex spice tones. This has interesting development in the years ahead but so beautiful already. (93 points)

2016 Hamilton Russell Vineyards Chardonnay (South Africa, Cape South Coast, Walker Bay, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley)
$37
Buttery nose but also bright and chalky with lots of green and yellow apples. Zesty and chalky but lots of depth and richness as well, along with plenty of rich apple and apricot fruit. I’d love to cellar this for a few years. (92 points)

2016 Hamilton Russell Vineyards Pinot Noir (South Africa, Cape South Coast, Walker Bay, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley)
$50
Lots of spice and rhubarb on the nose, with tart red fruits and pepper. Crisp, bright, but solid tannins. Bright but ripe red and black cherries, some cola, rhubarb, grilled rosemary – very pretty stuff that will improve for 5+ easily. (93 points)

2014 Hirsch Vineyards Pinot Noir San Andreas Fault (USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast)

$68
Cool, crisp but lots of bright red fruits and spices. Precise acidity, very bright and spicy but also some textural richness. (93 points)

2013 Hirsch Vineyards Pinot Noir Reserve (USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast)
$90
Wow, so much more herbs and spices and savory elements here. Also lots of structured tannins, fresh acidity, and aging potential. Beautiful, balanced, wow. (94 points)

2012 Cobb Pinot Noir Emmaline Ann (USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast)
$73
Aromatic bliss of roses and red cherries. Airy and elegant but well-built, crisp on the palate with lots of bright red fruits and spicy herbs. Lovely stuff. (93 points)

2013 Cobb Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard (USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast)
$86
I love the depth of herbal, spice, floral and red fruit elements in this wine. Balanced, plenty of ripeness but so fresh and lively and, despite complexity and age-worthiness, easy to drink. (93 points) 

N.V. Buena Vista Champagne La Victoire (France, Champagne)
$60
Crisp, fresh, bright style with lots of tart green apples and pears, some almonds. Leaner style but well done. (88 points)

2013 Buena Vista Cabernet Sauvignon Carneros (USA, California, Napa, Carneros)
$70
For a rich and fruit jam-packed Cab this stays lively and goes down easy with some fun non-fruit complexity. (89 points)

2008 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Ardanza Reserva (Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja)
$35
So fresh and herbal with love red fruits and lots of complex pepper and spice. (93 points)

2007 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 (Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja)

$55
Spicy, tangy, structured well but also accessible – my notes say “wow” like three times. I’d love to bury a few bottles of this for a decade. (94 points)

2013 Zena Crown Pinot Noir The Sum (USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills)
$80
I’ve taken detailed notes on this wine in the past, and I stick by them – this wine is excellent. Love the briskness and depth, complex floral notes. Will only get better. (93 points)

2013 Zena Crown Pinot Noir Slope (USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills)
$100
Crisp but not lean, full of gorgeous flavors. Wow, I’d love to see what this does in five to eight years. (94 points)

2013 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Don Melchor (Chile, Maipo Valley, Puente Alto
$125
Wow, tobacco city! This has a lot freshness in it for such a young Melchor, but delicious stuff. (92 points)

2014 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Don Melchor (Chile, Maipo Valley, Puente Alto)
$125
Wow, a powerful young wine but so elegant and velvety even at this early stage. The violets, graphite, earth, savory spices – gorgeous. (94 points)

2015 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis (Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Roero)
$32
Peachy and floral with zesty citrus fruit, fun but not simple. (88 points)

2009 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Albesani di Neive (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco)
$198
Fresh and lively despite youth, so much earthy, savory complexity already but structure for the long haul. Beautiful stuff. (93 points)

2011 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto Vigna Le Rocche (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo)

SRP: $425
So floral and complex and earthy on the nose with tart, deep fruit and loads of spice. Deep tannins, brisk acidity, structure for aging is amazing. Still so pure and delicious at this young age. My wine of the night. (97 points)

2015 Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto Toscana IGT (Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT)
$55
Earthy, dusty, rich texture, bold fruit, depth of non-fruit element. I’d love to let this sit for five to eight years. (89 points)

2014 Tenuta San Guido Bolgheri Sassicaia Sassicaia (Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Sassicaia)
$200
Love the vibrancy and relatively early-drinking appeal of this vintage at this point in its life. I’ve tasted and taken detailed notes on this before, and this bottle was also delicious, and went down so easily. (93 points)

2015 Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo Toscana IGT (Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT)
$35
Bright and spicy but dry and structured, really pretty red fruits and lots of floral/herbal/spice complexity. So good for the money. (89 points)

2015 Tenuta Sette Ponti Oreno Toscana IGT (Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT)
$90
Wow, this was fantastic. Super earthy and spicy aromatics with rich cherry, cedar, tobacco. So silky and velvety texture but serious grip and freshness for the cellar. Deep, rich, vibrant, complex – a really good one to forget about for five to eight to ten years. (94 points)
2014 Le Marquis de Calon Ségur (France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe)
$33
Super fun but also impressive structure and depth for a wine of this price point. Black cherries, earth, tar, floral – could improve for at least a handful of years easily. (89 points)
2014 Château Calon-Ségur (France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe)
$105
Still very young with strong grip, medium acid, tart currants, laced with sage, earth pepper. Impressive depth and concentration for the cellar. (94 points)

2008 Château Calon-Ségur (France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe)
$155
Great depth of spicy and herbal aromas (sage, bay leaf, pepper) on top of plums and red currant. Still grippy with plums, currants, herbs, leather. Long way to go still but showing nicely, although I’d decant this bad boy if drinking now. (93 points)

2009 Château Sociando-Mallet (France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc)
$60
Wow this is really showing well. Dark and rich but suave with pretty currant fruit and evolving tobacco/earth notes. (92 points)

2014 Château Malescot St. Exupéry (France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux)
$55
Nice grip, solid currant fruits, mixed with olive and graphite. Good now but lots of time ahead. (90 points)

2014 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste (France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac)
$80
So smooth despite density and structure. Lovely tart currant fruit and lots of earth. Obviously needs time but impressive. (91 points)

N.V. Allart & Fils Champagne (France, Champagne)
$40
Lean, apples, tart, simple but fun. (87 points)

N.V. J-M Seleque Champagne Brut Solessence (France, Champagne)
$50
Good amount of depth and precision on this wine, loaded with pears and biscuits. (88 points) 

N.V. Marguet Père et Fils Champagne Grand Cru Shaman (France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru)
$53
Crisp, lemon curd, dusty minerals and chalk, fresh biscuits. Solid. (89 points)

N.V. Bollinger Champagne Special Cuvée Brut (France, Champagne)
$62
Classic, zesty, toasty, always reliable and solid stuff. (89 points)

N.V. Tattinger Cuvee Prestige Rose Champagne (France, Champagne)
$80
Fleshy, tangy, brisk strawberries and raspberries, easy and fun, lacking a bit of oomph but delicious. (88 points)

Wine Reviews: New Releases from Oregon

Earlier this year I reviewed some exciting new releases Penner-Ash, and I’ve got a few more in this report. This producer never fails to get my palate fired up, and it’s nice to see them still going strong as they celebrate their 20^th vintage in 2015. There are a few Willamette Pinots from other producers thrown in as well.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2015 Penner-Ash Syrah - Oregon

SRP: $40

Medium purple color. Tart black cherries and plum aromas with some smoky, pepper, earthy notes along with tar, sweet violets and coffee. Silky on the palate but structured with medium acidity and tannins. Tangy black currants and crunchy plum fruit blends so well with pepper, black olive and tar, but I also flower pot and violet petals, some incense sticks. Good now but I’d cellar this for a few years or give it time because it really opens up and gets smooth and expressive. Aged 17 months in 30% new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Penner-Ash Pinot Noir Willamette Valley - Oregon, Willamette Valley

SRP: $40

Deep ruby color. Aromas of cool raspberries, black cherries, dusty earth, some rhubarb and rose petals. Medium-full-bodied with suave tannins and moderate acidity, the black cherry and sweet raspberry fruit is chewy but fresh. I get elements of eucalyptus, rose petal, sweet violets, hints of cedar and clove. Bold but vibrant, and a great intro this producer’s excellent Pinot Noirs. Aged 10 months in 30% new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Penner-Ash Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton

SRP: $65

Vibrant ruby color. Deep, dark aromas of cherries and rich blackberries, along with violets, clove, espresso, some mushroom, deep but awesome aromatics. Plush, balanced, lovely palate that combines bright acidity, structured tannins, with tangy black cherries and tart plum fruit. A delightful mix of violets, sweet pipe tobacco, sarsaparilla, cherry wood and clove, the flavors are rich but the wine is so lively. I’d love to bury this for five years. Aged 10 months in 20% new French oak. (92 points)

2015 Penner-Ash Pinot Noir Zena Crown Vineyard - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills

SRP: $65

Rich ruby color. Bursting aromatics of dark plums and cherries, a deep, complex earthiness pervades the nose with elements of fall leaves, loam, graphite, and throw in some violets and green herbs. Full on the palate with solid tannins (by no means harsh) but vibrant, crisp acidity. Black cherries and gushing plum fruit, so delicious, mixes with dried roses, pipe tobacco, black olive, and I get some rhubarb and cola notes as well. Complex, balanced, deep, lasting, memorable. Plenty of years of evolution ahead. (93 points)

2016 Illahe Estate Willamette Valley - Oregon, Willamette Valley

SRP: $22

Light ruby red color. Smells of cherries galore, tart strawberries, rose petals, rhubarb and sweet incense sticks. Fresh acidity, dusty tannins, a crisp but bouncy and juicy Pinot packed with cherries, raspberries and strawberries. Rhubarb, roses, clove, root beer, black pepper. Juicy, almost chewy, but consistently fresh. Lovely now. Serious value. (88 points)

2016 Grochau Cellars Pinot Noir Commuter Cuvee - Oregon, Willamette Valley

SRP: $18

Light ruby color. Simple, pleasant aromas of raspberries, strawberry jam, cola. Soft tannins on the palate, medium-body, medium acidity. Flavors of candied red apple, raspberry jam, this is a fun and easy-drinking Pinot with some slight roses and spiced tea. Crowd-pleasing stuff for near-term consumption. (86 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

New Releases from Preeminent Oregon Producer Penner-Ash

Penner-Ash has earned wide consumer, restaurant and wine media respect for many years, and it’s easy to see why. For decades they have sourced fruit from some stunning Oregon vineyards: their estate vineyard in Yamhill-Carlton, Shea Vineyard, Hyland Vineyard in McMinnville, Zena Crown in Eola Amity Hills. Their wines are what one may call terroir-driven, they are vibrant, complex wines with all sorts of unique nuances. 

In a recent blind tasting of American Rieslings (detailed here), Penner-Ash showed quite well with their two Rieslings, a Willamette Valley AVA and one from a Hyland Vineyard-designated Riesling. So I was expecting goodness from the 2015 Riesling, and it delivered.  

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2015 Penner-Ash Riesling Old Vine Riesling Hyland Vineyard - Oregon, Willamette Valley, McMinnville
SRP: $35
Medium yellow color. On the nose, this bursts with white peach, lemon zest, apricot, an oily note, honeycomb, new tennis ball, yellow flowers – lots going on here! The palate is medium-bodied with brisk, mouth-watering acidity, and the wine feels near bone dry but shows plenty of ripe fruit (orange, lime, peaches). Balanced with saline, minerals, tennis ball, orange marmalade, a long, lingering finish. Complex, delicious, beautiful stuff. (90 points)

2016 Penner-Ash Viognier - Oregon
SRP: $30
Medium straw color with a slight spritz. So much floral explosion on the nose: honeysuckle, orange blossom, dandelion, along with honey, peach nectar, green pear and guava. Full-bodied and plump but not heavy due to the moderating acidity. Pulses with lime, guava and white peach, lots of floral perfume and orange blossom along with honeycomb, waxy notes, and a lingering sense of minerals and saline. Big but vibrant for Viognier, a very pretty interpretation. All stainless steel, sourced from vineyards in the Rogue and Columbia Valleys. (89 points)

2015 Penner-Ash Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $65
Pretty rose/ruby color. Takes time but opens up to show deep red currant, red and black cherries, rose petals, spicy white pepper, clove, tilled soil. Crisp acidity frames the palate so well, but the tannic structure provides plenty of support without being harsh, and the balance is superb. Graceful but tart red and black cherries, some cranberry, tons of spiced black tea, tobacco, rose petals, white pepper, sage and earthy, floral complexities that linger long on the finish. This is a tightly structured wine that will probably see its best days five years from now, and age beautifully, but this an impressive young Shea Pinot from Penner-Ash. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Zena Crown & Gran Moraine - Killer Oregon Pinot & Chardonnay

Winemaker Shane Moore. Credit: Zena Crown Vineyard.

The first time I tasted Zena Crown Pinot Noirs, I was amazed. I knew nothing about this producer, knew only vaguely about the quality of the vineyard, and knew that I enjoyed the fresh appeal of many 2013 Willamette Valley Pinots. But as I tasted and re-tasted these wines (in order to check my high level of stoke), I became more and more convinced that these are exceptional Pinots. So I jumped at the opportunity to re-taste these wines with Zena Crown winemaker Shane Moore during his recent visit to DC.

Zena Crown Vineyard is one of those recent purchases by California wine giant Jackson Family. Like Copain and Siduri (two stellar Sonoma-based Pinot Noir producers purchased by the Jackson Family in 2016 and 2015, respectively), Jackson Family has been fastening several Pinot Noir jewels into their corporate crown. As a big fan of both of those California producers, I was a bit worried at the purchases, fearing the wines I had loved would be altered to fit sales goals of the parent company.

The Zena Crown Vineyard in Oregon's Eola-Amity Hills appellation. Credit: Zena Crown Vineyard

But that doesn’t seem to be the case. Shane, who was installed as Zena Crown’s winemaker, says he feels Jackson Family has given him the power and the backing to move forward and make the best wines he can.

If I was on the board of Jackson Family Wines, I’d sure as hell let Shane run the show. His wines are fantastic, fresh, vibrant examples of the high quality Pinots and Chardonnays coming out of Oregon. (Especially with back-to-back-to-back solid vintages 2014-2016, there are going to be a lot of exception Oregon wines out there for years to come.)

Shane is also winemaker at Gran Moraine, a Chardonnay and Pinot producer that kicked off in 2013. Made from Yamhill-Carlton fruit, these wines are lip-smacking and delicious. The Chardonnay was particularly impressive.

During dinner, Shane told me that his favorite Pinot Noirs come from Burgundy’s Volnay village. I love Volnay wines, too, so our palates align a bit more than I had predicted. Bright red fruit, complex earth and floral tones, bright acidity, moderate weight but plenty of tannic structure — these are the Pinots that make me swoon. As such, I’m a huge fan of Zena Crown’s 2013s. They’re accessible and crisp but offer plenty of depth and structure.

Below are my notes on the Gran Moraine and Zena Crown wines I tasted.

2016 Gran Moraine Pinot Noir Rosé of Pinot Noir - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $30
Pale strawberry color. Lively and crisp aromas of watermelon rind, honeydew, chalk dust and rose hops. The palate shows that lovely balanced contrast between a fleshy and juicy texture with crisp, lip-smacking acidity. Spicy floral tones mix with white pepper and nettle. Whole-cluster pressed and later the pale juice is blended back in with some carbonic macerated Pinot Noir. (90 points)

2014 Gran Moraine Chardonnay - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $45
Deep and fascinating aromas of mixed nuts, honeysuckle, lime and complex white and yellow floral tones. Wide-textured and some pleasant creaminess but lit up by intense acidity, the balance is pristine. Limes and apricots topped in butterscotch, floral perfume, toasted nut, sea shells, crusty chalk and a streak of minerals. Long finish. Gorgeous stuff. (94 points)

2013 Gran Moraine Pinot Noir - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $45
Pretty aromatic display of rhubarb, roses, herb garden and top soil, on top of pure red cherry and cranberry sauce. Silky and vibrant on the palate, light but structured very well with brisk acidity and crunchy, complex red fruits (cherry, pomegranate, cranberries). Notes of spiced tea, roses, anise and pine resin add lots of complexity. A vibrant and delicious Pinot for near-term drinking. (92 points)

2013 Zena Crown Pinot Noir Slope - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills
SRP: $100
What a beauty to sniff. Waves of bright and juicy raspberries, McIntosh apple peel and red currants, along with lots of rose petals, cola, rhubarb, spiced black tea… and a whole lot more to coax out as well. Bright and crisp on the palate with a blend of earth, mint, clove, white pepper, rhubarb and tobacco. So much depth and texture for a sub 13% ABV Pinot. Age-worthy for sure, this will be exceptional in a few years despite it’s early-drinking appeal, like a lot of 2013s right now. (94 points)

2013 Zena Crown Pinot Noir The Sum - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills
SRP: $75
More spice and darker fruit than the Slope, lots of broth and pepper but still fresh and lively. Palate shows gorgeous concentration despite its lightness, so much complexity and depth for a 12-something-% Pinot. Takes a bit more time to open up than the Slope, but it shows complex and delicious black cherries and raspberries, and a host of mushroom, earth, black tea and rose petal elements. This will do some wonders in five or six years. (93 points)

Zena Crown Vineyard - Superb Oregon Pinot Noir

Credit: Zena Crown Vineyard

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

This week, let’s dive into some serious Willamette Valley Pinot Noir: Zena Crown Vineyard.

These Pinots are sourced from a southwest-facing slope, a volcanic soil site that has been bottled as a vineyard-designated wine from heralded producers like Beaux Freres and Penner-Ash. This Zena Crown Vineyard outfit formed in 2013, a cooperative project between winemakers Shane Moore and Tony Rynders. Seventeen different blocks of Pinot Noir (planted to many different clones) comprise the Zena Crown Vineyard, and these wines show off Shane and Tony’s blending prowess, as each wine is a combination of various clones and plots. 

This is precise, vibrant, delicious Oregon Pinot Noir – full of racy acidity, lip-smacking mineral presence, tart but delicious red fruits, and loads of complex earthy, spicy notes. Each has its own personality, but they share serious structure, alcohol levels in the high 12% range, and invigorating acidity. These are Pinots share with wine nerd friends and engage in pleasant debate about whether that note on the finish is rooibos tea, eucalyptus, sage, white pepper — and everyone would be right. These wines pack that real sense of intrigue and mystique, but it’s by no means a purely intellectual exercise. They’re damned delicious.

These Pinots are stunning right out of the bottle, but time and air do wonders, as will serious cellar time. If I were buying in, I’d cellar a bottle apiece for at least four or five years, because there’s so much complexity to unwrap.

The wines all spend about 17 months in French oak, most of which (75-90%) are new, but that new oak is woven in wonderfully, softening the tannins a bit and imparting some flavors but by no means overtaking the fruit and non-fruit flavors. They’re stunning interpretations of Eola-Amity Hills Pinot and I imagine any Oregon Pinot enthusiast would be stoked to get their hands on some.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2013 Zena Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir Conifer - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills

SRP: $75
Rich ruby color. Aromas of bright raspberries, red currants and McIntosh apple peels, with rose petals, pine forest, mushroom and rhubarb. Wonderful balance on the palate, with sturdy tannins, a silky medium body, crisp acidity. Flavors of raspberry and dark cherry, the fruit is gushing but tangy, with notes of forest floor, tobacco, rhubarb and rose hips. Notes of light roast coffee and cedar blend in nicely. So much complexity, but so clean and crisp. A long life ahead, this will improve for 3-7 years easily. (93 points) 

2013 Zena Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir ∑ - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills
SRP: $75
Gorgeous aromas of red apple, red currants, juicy raspberries, along with roses, tobacco, dried leaves, cola, rhubarb, white pepper — wow. Medium-bodied with dusty but structured tannins and crisp, pure acidity. Red currants, red apple and tart raspberries blend wonderfully with fallen leaves, clove, mint, rose petals and tobacco. Lots of minerals and a deep sense of earthy complexity. So much flavor but so elegant with a gorgeous, long finish. Referred to with the sign indicating “the sum,” this is sourced from multiple vineyards and clones. 40% whole cluster fermentation. (93 points)

2013 Zena Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir Slope - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills
SRP: $100
Takes more time to open up, but I eventually get waves of black cherries, red currants, tilled earth, tobacco, roasted coffee and rhubarb, the aromas evolve drastically with air. On the palate, this shows such elegance despite a densely-packed tannic backbone, and the acidity is electric on a medium-bodied frame. The black cherry and raspberry fruit is loaded with potting soil, mushroom, black tea and bay leaf, and the coffee and cedar notes are woven in expertly. Lots of earthy/herbal complexity. This is the most concentrated and age-worthy of the wines, but at 12.7%, it’s still vibrant. I’d still like to bury it for eight years or so. An absolutely gorgeous Pinot. (93 points)

Wine Reviews: Pinot Noir from California and Oregon

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

You’ve likely been bombarded by media about Thanksgiving wine pairings. There’s no right or wrong way to do this. Just open up all sorts of bottles and let the crowd and food sort it out.

But, thinking back over the past few Thanksgiving meals, I can’t remember a dinner that lacked at least one California Pinot Noir. Willamette Valley, and of course Burgundy, will also do. For me, Pinot Noir exudes crisp autumn weather and makes me hunger for warm, hearty foods.

A lot of 2014 California Pinot Noirs are hitting shelves, and they’re tasting darn good — lots of freshness and red fruits but some show serious concentration.

This tasting includes a host of Pinots from Etude, which has been producing vibrant Carneros Pinot Noir for three decades. In recent years, they’ve expanded into a range of Pinot Noirs from other sites in California (and even a Willamette Pinot and a zinger from New Zealand). The wines taste so site-specific, and each stood out as unique in a single-blind tasting, but they maintain a house style focused on crisp acidity, juicy red fruit and lots of spice. This was my first time tasting the Willamette Valley Pinots from Lenne, a producer focused on two estate Pinot Noirs from a site near the town of Yamhill. (I’m impressed.) And we also have some late releases from Clos de La Tech and Holman Ranch.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single blind.

2010 Clos De La Tech Pinot Noir - California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
SRP: $42
Dark ruby color. Aromatically bursting with savory and spicy elements, like spiced coffee, old library books and black tea, on top of black cherries and raspberry jam. Full-bodied with some sturdy structure to the tannins, and the wine is framed by vibrant acidity. Dark, concentrated cherry and plum fruit, with dark chocolate, coffee, clove, smashed rocks, and a complex host of herbal and savory spices. Needs time to open up, or time in the cellar, but this is a bold yet complex Pinot. Impressive. Plenty of life ahead. Aged 12 months in 3/4 new French oak. (92 points)

2014 Etude Pinot Noir Bannockburn - New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Bannockburn
SRP: $60
Vibrant ruby color. Smells like cool raspberries and strawberries with cola, rhubarb, white pepper and sage — complex and gorgeous aromas. Maintains lively acidity and freshness throughout, while sporting structured but smooth tannins. Tart strawberries and wild raspberry fruit is pure and crisp, and laced with complex elements of raspberry leaf tea, savory mushroom, topsoil, rose petals, warm spices. Gorgeous silky texture on the palate. I had no idea a New Zealand Pinot made it into this single-blind tasting, and this had be perplexed as to its origin but totally swooning over its deliciousness and complexity. I’d love to taste this in three to five. (93 points)

2014 Etude Pinot Noir Grace Benoist Ranch - California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $45
Light ruby color. Sweet but tart red and black cherry fruit on the nose, along with rhubarb, cola and eucalyptus and pumpkin pie spice. Full-bodiedwith moderately bright acid, velvety mouthfeel but some grip from the dry tannins. Dark cherry and plum, the fruit is juicy but a bit compact, and needs time to coax out the sweet floral, cinnamon, cocoa and mushroom notes. A sense of graphite and stony minerality lingers on the finish. Very nice but it’ll be better in a few years. Aged 12 months in 1/4 new French oak. (89 points)

2014 Etude Pinot Noir Ellenbach - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $60
Deep ruby color. Aromas of sweet, chewy cherries and raspberry jam, with tobacco, cola and rooibos tea. Tart acidity, dusty tannins provide enough structure, and there are loads of sweet black cherries and raspberry jam flavors on the palate. Cola, rhubarb, rose petals, lots of other stuff going on, some clove and pine. Rich and chewy but stays fresh. Should evolve nicely over the next few years. (90 points)

2014 Etude Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $45
Deep ruby/light purple color. Smells like a mix of tart cherries and raspberry jam coated in black tea and spicy tobacco. Full-bodied but tart acidity, this is a richer, more extracted Pinot but the acidity keeps it vibrant. Red plums, raspberry jam, some darker cherry fruit, add in some earth, mocha and herbal spice tea. Gets significantly better with air — I’d like to revisit in two or three years. Aged 12 months in 1/4 new French oak. (90 points)

2014 Etude Pinot Noir North Canyon Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $45
Bright ruby color. Aromas of chilled raspberries, juicy strawberries and pomegranate, mixed with rose hips, and some warm cinnamon spices — elegant and deep aromas that take time to fully develop. Medium/full-bodied with a dusty tannic structure, full of tingling acidity. Juicy black cherries and crunchy pomegranates blend with flavors of cherry wood, cedar, tobacco shop and allspice. Finishes long and crisp, more savory spices and mushroom and wet forest come out with air.. Great now but good near-term ager. 10 months in ¼ new French oak. (91 points)

2014 Etude Pinot Noir Yamhilll Vista Vineyard - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $60
Medium ruby color. Smells of juicy strawberries, tart red currants, dusty earth, leather and rhubarb. Fleshy texture will a full body and moderate acidity and medium tannin. Juicy raspberries and strawberry jams, with rose petals, sweet coffee, rhubarb pie and caramel. Finishes with earthy spice. Delish, ready to go, but could age in the near term. Aged 13 months in 1/3 new French oak. (89 points)

2014 FEL Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $70
Deep ruby color. Smells of sweet cherries and strawberries, along with rose hops, tobacco, pickling spices and more savory notes of tilled soil and mushroom. Medium-full-bodied with smooth but structured tannins and moderately crisp acidity for balance. The tart strawberries mix with richer black cherry notes – laced with elements of soy, mushroom, pipe tobacco and earth, along with some intermingled notes of cigar box and light roast coffee. Delicious stuff now but it should evolve nicely over the next few years. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 53% new. (91 points)

2012 Holman Ranch Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Carmel Valley
SRP: $35
Light raspberry color. Smells of tart strawberries, cherries, and red apple peel topped with pepper, rhubarb, fennel and cola. Fresh acidity, light-medium-bodied (12.8% alcohol) with fine tannins that still provide structure. A lighter, brisk approach but still plenty of texture and flavors. Sour cherries, watermelon, wild strawberries, the tart fruit is laced with notes of tobacco, pepper and dusty earth, just a hint of cola. Vibrant, fresh, tangy, showing wonderfully right out of the bottle. (89 points)

2015 Inconceivable Wines Pinot Noir The Fog Prince - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $25
Dark ruby color. Aromas of sweet red cherries, raspberry jam, cola, vanilla and sweet pipe tobacco. On the palate this shows light tannins, a slightly chewy texture and some fresh acidity. Sweet/sour cherries and tangy raspberries blend nicely with some cola, roses, toffee and espresso notes. An easy-drinking style but very delicious, and a good value. Aged 10 months in 60% new French oak. (88 points)

2013 Lenne Pinot Noir LeNez - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton

The whole giant nose on the label thing is kind of weird, but these are legit Pinots.

SRP: $30
Pale ruby. Aromas of sour cherries, tart blueberries and black cherries, along with sage and pepper and mushroom/earth. Medium-bodied, moderate acidity. Bright red fruit gushes across the palate (strawberries, wild raspberries) with notes of herbal tea, rose hips, spiced cranberry sauce, tilled soil and eucalyptus. Tart, vibrant, refreshing finish, yet this has a lot of concentration for the cellar. So pretty, and great value. Aged in about 1/4 new oak, 13% alcohol, this is a blend of each clone planted on Lenne’s estate vineyard. (90 points)

2013 Lenne Estate Pinot Noir - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $45
Pale ruby. Elegant, vibrant red fruit aromas with lots of rose hips, white pepper and such gorgeous floral complexity. Medium-bodied, so juicy and bright with some moderately grippy tannic structure and lip-smacking acidity. Tart cherries, raspberries, wild strawberry, the fruit is so damned vibrant and delicious, and laced with lots of roses, violets and white mushrooms. Velvety and sporting serious grip, this is also silky and elegant. An exciting Pinot Noir. More tar and cedar on this one (1/3 new oak) but it’s woven in expertly. Gorgeous stuff that will improve for four or five years easily. (92 points)

2014 Lenne Estate Pinot Noir - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $38
Bright ruby color. Juicy black cherries mix with red currant, topped with lots of violets, soil, hints of leather and cocoa. Medium/full-bodied with structured but accessible tannin and moderate but refreshing acidity. Very cool mix of black and sour red cherries, along with notes of roses, violets, chestnut and savory spice. Some cedar and cocoa from the oak, but it’s balanced nicely. A dusty mineral and soil element comes out with time. Delicious now but built for a solid life in the cellar. (92 points)

2014 Nielson by Byron Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $45
Deep ruby color. Aromas of chilled but juicy red berries (strawberry, cherry, raspberry) along with a complexity of herbal and spice elements (mint, white pepper, rhubarb). Full-bodied but smooth and velvety, the chewy tannins and medium acidity make this pleasant and approachable. Juicy cherries, raspberries and jammy strawberries, the fruit is juicy and ripe but not heavy. I get sage, violets, rhubarb and white pepper notes. Touched with cedar and vanilla, but those elements are woven in nicely. Rich, velvety but also bright and leaves the palate feeling refreshed. Aged 15 months in 40% new oak. (89 points)