Digging into Paso Roble's Broken Earth

I’ve only visited California’s Paso Robles wine country once, and toured a lot in a few days, and I have the fondest memories. I often wish to return to visit new wineries, relive the love, and score more waves on the nearby Central Coast.

The diverse soils, the hills, the microclimates, it all fascinated me, and helped explain why certain Paso wines just hit differently. And the wine folks who live there are scrappy, tough, really smart, and willing to experiment. All sorts of vines find their way in this varied terrain, and I’ve found lots of joy in Mediterranean white wines, Spanish reds, Italian blends, and other unexpected varietal wines.

Recently, Broken Earth rekindled that Paso spark for me. Broken Earth was established in 1973, and celebrates the heritage of the Continental Vineyard property, which was originally named Rancho Tierra Rejada, or “land of worked earth.” They have a large portfolio with what seems like a bunch of interesting wines. I was happy to taste through the trio of their “CV” wines – which are their allocated, higher-end wines made only in certain vintages.

These wines allow winemaker Chris Cameron to shine. An Australian by birth, he’s worked harvests for four decades and first showed up in Paso in 2007. And he’s got a lot of great fruit with which to work his blending prowess.

Also of note: they’re also a California Certified Sustainable Vineyard, and seem to take stewardship seriously, so that’s always a great thing. And as a big owl nerd, I’m a fan of any vineyard that utilizes owl boxes!

Check out these wines below, which I received as samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Broken Earth Winery Studium Red CV Reserve - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $80
Deep purple color. The nose is so inviting with black currant, fig paste, black cherries, accented with sage, tobacco, mint, along with deep stony, graphite, coffee grounds, and cocoa nibs. The palate is structured but silky with crisp acidity, smooth tannins, and deep flavors of mulled cherries and plum fruit. I get a lot of spicy herbs, black pepper, and barbecue sauce, with dried violets and hints of clove. Complex, saucy, savory, and a lot underlying minerals, earth, and graphite. A decant is a good idea if drinking now, but this will also age very well. (92 points)

2019 Broken Earth Winery Cabernet Franc CV Reserve - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP: $80
Bright purple color. A deep yet integrated nose of red and black currants and cherries, mixed with plenty of roasted red pepper, bay leaf, tobacco, black pepper, and grilled steaks – really cool stuff to sniff. The palate is full and suave and shows a solid core of tannins along with fresh acidity. I get black currants and saucy cherries, dark but crunchy fruit, and a host of fascinating savory tones: mesquite, sage, anise, black pepper, leather, incense sticks – there’s so much to parse through. Expressive with air but this will age wonderfully, and I’d like to revisit in like eight years. Excellent Paso Cab Franc! (93 points)

2019 Broken Earth Winery Cabernet Sauvignon CV Reserve - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $80
Dark purple color. The nose is a dense display of currant, plum cake, and roasted figs, but it opens to show savory spices, dried violets, potting soil, tar, tobacco, and some dark chocolate shavings. On the palate, this is rich and full but shows nice grip, balanced with lively acidity. The black cherry, wild blueberry, and plum compote flavors blend really well with the graphite, charcoal, spicy herbs, and earthy tones. Suave, full, but deep and vibrant. This really needs some time in the cellar to unfold, but even now it tells a great story. (93 points)

American wines to beat the heat

I hope you’re all enjoying the Summer so far. It’s been a hot and humid mess here in the Mid-Atlantic, and I’m doing more hibernating than usual.

With more of the same on the way, I’ve been enjoying some bright and crisp wines to share with friends and family of late. And with the Fourth of July coming up, this is always a great time of year to highlight some excellent American wines that would be good all Summer long.

Perfect summer wines from Troon.

To start things off, I have some wines from Troon, a biodynamic, envelope-pushing, and just downright fun producer that makes a wide range of offerings from the Applegate Valley in the south of the state. For this piece, I have three wines that I would gleefully crack open for guests this Fourth. We’ve got a lees-aged Grenache Blanc (adding all sorts of texture to this zippy grape), a most crushable red made in a Beaujolais style, and a fascinating rosé.

From California, I have a Mediterranean-style crusher from Paso Robles, and an excellent rosé from Three Sticks that I think would impress fans of higher-end, deeper, complex pinks.

Whatever you’re opening and enjoying, I wish you and yours a very happy Summer, and a safe and pleasant Fourth of July.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Troon Vineyard Grenache Blanc Extended Lees Aging - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Bright lemon color. A fresh and inviting aromatic display of green apples, white peach, and kiwi, along with almond skin, saltine cracker, and flinty minerals. Racy and taut on the palate but this has an incredibly deep texture, with this harmony between waxy and oceanic elements. Green apple, papaya, white peach, the fruit is mixed with nuanced tones of oyster shell, white pepper, and some green herbs and savory tones that need air to come out. A nerd’s wine but one that a casual fan would likely also find delicious. This spends 17 months in neutral French oak. (93 points)

2023 Troon Vineyard Ascendant Rosé - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Pale copper color. Complex and inviting on the nose, with red apple peel, white cherries, wild raspberries, topped in dandelion greens, honeysuckle, and sea breeze. The palate is punchy and juicy but racy with the acidity, making for a lip-smacking and balanced pink. Watermelon, red and white cherries, the ripe and tangy fruit blends well with nuances of mint, crushed shells, mountain stream, basil, and white pepper. A breezy, delicious rosé from Troon that should age well. 38% Cinsault, 33% Mourvèdre, 11% Grenache, 10% Counoise, 8% Carignan. (92 points)

2023 Troon Vineyard Grenache Glou-Glou - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Vibrant ruby color. A bright aromatic display of strawberries, cranberries, and wild raspberries, with spiced herbal tea, rose hips, and rhubarb. On the palate, this is crushable and bright with a brisk and pleasant appeal. Flavors of tart cranberry relish and red apple peel with some deeper cherry fruit, and a cool mix of spicy herbs, white pepper, rose petals, and dusty earth. Fun and fresh but can’t deny the balance and complexity. A great summer sipper that will win over a lot of fans at the barbecue, I wager. A blend of Cinsault and Grenache. (90 points)

2021 Paso Verde White Wine - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

Credit: Paso Verde

SRP: $25
Light yellow color with a slight spritz. Fresh and bright on the nose, with limes, white peaches, white and yellow flowers, with some salty-chalky vibes. On the palate, this is zippy and fun with bright acidity but some nice textural depth. Bright green apples, with limes, papaya, mixed in with some nice white flowers, dandelion, and some chalk dust and minerals. Crushable and fun but complex and balanced, too. Paso has such variety, that there’s always some cool iteration of an Old World style here, and this blend of Grenache Blanc, Verdelho, Vermentino, and Picpoul is a lot of fun. (90 points)

2023 Three Sticks Castenada Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $45
Pretty light strawberry color. The nose is super fresh and spritely, with crushed shells, talc, floral perfume, daisies, over tangy strawberries, white cherries, and crunchy red apples. The palate has this wonderful depth of texture, rich but vibrant with crisp acidity. Flavors of papaya, white cherry, watermelon, and red apples mix wonderfully with floral, mint, talc, limestone, and white tea elements. Lots of minerals and herbal nuances – very impressive depth and complexity. All estate grown Pinot and Chardonnay. (92 points)

Wines for Mother's Day and beyond

Credit: Halter Ranch

Mother’s Day is right around the corner and Summer is on the way, too. So, I wanted to share some bright and joy-giving selections I think would fit perfectly for this season.

I’ll start off with Halter Ranch, a California producer that came in hot on my radar, consistently providing deliciousness and excitement. From the Adelaida district of Paso Robles, which has been home to some of my personal favorite wines from the region. Their new 2023 rosés would be great Mother’s Day or Father’s Day gift, or to open at an upcoming party around such a date. Both of these wines are made from Grenache with a bit of Picpoul Blanc and Mourvedre. And with Summer coming up quickly, these wines (especially the sparkler) will be wise choices through all the coming heat.

If you’re looking for very high-quality Riesling, and like saving money, Smith-Madrone’s new release (the 2019) continues with their streak of excellence. It’s one of the best, not just from California, but from anywhere in the U.S. – my humble opinion, of course. It drinks great now since it’s been aged a bit, but don’t hesitate to lay some down for five to eight years, as this will improve in the long run.

If you are, know, or love someone from Texas, I’ve a wine for you this week, a fascinating blend from the Hill Country’s William Chris Vineyards. One of the cooler Texas white wines I’ve tasted, and one that makes me want to explore more wines from this appellation.

For grill-out or summer-friendly reds, I’ve got two fun options A delightful red blend from Cormorant Cellars, and some Santa Cruz Mountain fruit that I shared with friends and we all thoroughly enjoyed. Also, if you’re looking for quality but want a bargain, I have a nice Rioja Crianza for you that would be an easy multi-bottle purchase.

I hope everyone has some nice wines (like these) on deck for the last days of Spring. Please let me know in the comments what you’re drinking lately.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

White

2023 William Chris Vineyards Mary Ruth - USA, Texas, Texas Hill Country
SRP: $36
Light yellow color. Super floral and peachy on the nose, with all sorts of tropical flowers and dandelion, with lime, pineapple, white peach, even some chalk dust and notes of flint and perfume. Ripe but fresh on the palate, brisk but pleasant juiciness, with white peach and ruby red grapefruit dominating. Lots of herbs and white pepper, wildflowers, some stony, mineral vibes. Totally delicious and a lot more complex than I was expecting. A fun blend of 25% Malvasia Bianca, 22% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Muscat Canelli, 16% Muscat Blanc, 11% Semillon, and 6% Blanc du Bois. (90 points)

2019 Smith-Madrone Riesling - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $40

Medium yellow color. The nose is so vibrant and sings with these harmonies of white peach, lime, papaya, backed up with white flowers, honey, almond skin, and hints of white pepper and celery seed. On the palate, this is racy and tangy but sports significant depth, and the balance is on-point. The papaya, white peach, banana, and lime fruit blend well with elements of chalk dust, limestone, honey, sea salt, and these deep nuances that need years to develop. Beautiful to drink now (due to it’s later release), and this will age for so many years. Another win for Smith-Madrone team! (93 points)

Rosé

2023 Halter Ranch Rosé - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $37
Beautiful watermelon color. The nose gushes with strawberries, raspberries, watermelon, along with salty, seashell tones, and plenty of breezy meadow, wildflowers, hay, and basil. Deep texture on the palate with brisk acidity and pure fruit flavors (strawberries, raspberries, white cherries). The non-fruit complexities really make this wine sing, and I get notes of mint, wildflowers, chalk dust, limestone, some green tea. Complex and rich but crushably delicious, too. (91 points)

2023 Halter Ranch Effervescent Rosé - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $50
Pale rose color with a light spritz. The aromas sport tangy red cherries, red apple peel, wild raspberries, mixed with complex tones of dandelion, white pepper, celery seed, some orange zest in there as well. Crisp and punchy on the palate with zesty acidity, fine bubbles, and a nice textural depth. The flavors of crunchy red apples, raspberries, and cherries blend well with notes of minerals, talc, white pepper, dried roses. Pure fun but also packed with complexity. Crowd-pleasing and should be a hit with wine nerd crowds, too. Don’t let the twist cap fool you, this is good stuff. (91 points)

Red

2021 Cormorant Cellars Red Black Ridge Vineyard - USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
SRP: $47
Vibrant deep purple on the nose. Aromas of saucy plums, tangy black cherries, with deep violets, leather, clove, spicy-herbal tones – a lot to unpack. So smooth and juicy on the palate, with vibrant acidity and suave tannins. An interesting mix of red currant, wild blueberry, and saucy black cherry fruit. A lot of complexities in terms of pepper, leather, earth, paprika, sage, but it stays so elevated and vibrant. I’d love to see this in five years, or give it a nice decant and let it sing. 73% Merlot, 24% Cab Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot from a dry-farmed, cool climate vineyard. (93 points)

2019 Bodegas Montecillo Rioja Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $14
Bright purple color. The nose sports ripe plum, tangy red currants, black cherry jam, supported by tobacco, leather, anise, and clove tones, and some cool graphite. Ripe and juicy on the palate with dusty-light tannins and fresh acidity. The fruit is saucy but tangy (red currants, red and black cherries) and mixed with nuances of earth, tobacco, charcoal, graphite, dried violet petals. Stays balanced and elegant, and shows a lot of complexity and class for a wine at this price point. (88 points)

California and Oregon wines for giving and holiday celebrations

It’s that rush before the holidays when things are crazy and time seems to fly by. There’s so much to do and plan, and wine-buying shouldn’t be an added stress. So, this week I have a group of wines from producers I think would make great gifts or bottles to open with your friends and family this holiday season.

I’m focusing on California and Oregon, from two producers I’ve known and respected for a while, to a new (to me) producer from a well-known region. In the spirit of giving and thankfulness, I’ve chosen producers I think make a solid effort toward environmental stewardship, and delicious wines.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

Halter Ranch

I have such fond memories of visiting Paso Robles. The place is beautiful, the people welcoming, and the wines – it’s just an embarrassment of riches. The diversity of grapes is impressive – whether the Bordeaux classics, or Italian varieties blended together in all shapes and sizes, to Spanish grapes that fit various nooks and crannies in the Paso terroir. Lots of little gems pop up if you go looking. There’s a real, true-blue feel to a lot of the winemakers, and it seems evident in a lot of wines. They’re not showy for the sake of it, they’re clear expressions of intent, style, and place. And whatever style you’re into, I bet you can find a cool expression somewhere in the larger Paso Robles region.

Take this new-to-me producer, Halter Ranch. I thought I had a pretty good understanding of a lot of the producers here, but I somehow missed this one. I’m glad that has been rectified. Halter Ranch tends to 200 acres of organic vineyards, walnuts, and olives. Sheep graze (and fertilize) the vineyard in classic fashion. And proprietor Hansjörg Wyss and winemaker Kevin Sass make at least 15 different expressions or blends from 20 different varieties of west-side Paso fruit. Looking at their lineup, there’s a lot piques my interest. These wines offer an enticing look at what these folks are doing.

2022 Halter Ranch Grenache Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $43
Light copper color. A beautiful nose of yellow apples, white peach, orange peels, with nuances of sea salt, crunchy limestone, white tea – deep but it has this airy, breezy complexity, too. The palate is crisp and bright on a medium-bodied frame with some lovely depth of texture. The flavors of white peach, lemon curd, and green apples play well off tones of ocean spray, floral perfume, some honey butter, and white tea complexities. I’m a big fan of Grenache Blanc for its bright yet expressive appeal, and this is a lovely take. Includes a bit of Picpoul and Viognier. (92 points)

2020 Halter Ranch Sparkling Picpoul Blanc Libelle - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $85
Bright lemon color with fine bubbles. The aromatic pop is so bright and floral, but shows layered depth, with lots of white and yellow flowers, chalk dust, with pie crust, over kiwi and green apples. The palate shows light body but plenty of creamy depth, and vibrant acidity, framing up the lemon, papaya, and green apple fruit. I love the racy, taut vibes, the minerals and chalk dust. The complexity is really delightful, and though it maintains this brisk appeal, there are a lot of layered, deeper elements to parse through. That flinty mineral element on the finish – lovely. A great idea for the holidays or in a blind tasting – I’d enjoy hearing the guesses from wine nerd friends. Picpoul made in the Champagne method. (92 points)

2020 Halter Ranch Cotes de Paso - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $55
Medium purple color. An expressive nose of raspberries and cranberry relish, with juicy black cherries, and nuances of violets, clove, warm clay, black pepper, and cedar and coffee grounds. Full-bodied but fresh and vibrant with a silky, pleasantly plush mouthfeel. Concentrated but clear fruit (raspberries, plums, cranberry relish, tart blueberries), and the fruit is mixed well with elements of spiced black tea, coffee grounds, roasted nuts, hints of cedar. Finishes with stony minerals and earth. A super cool blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, and Tannat. Paso’s got the goods! (92 points)

2020 Halter Ranch Ancestor - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District

SRP: $85
Deep purple color. A rich nose of blackberry, blueberry, tangy black cherries, tossed with spicy tobacco, earthy-sage tones, black pepper, and deeper elements of anise and mocha. Deep but vibrant, serious grip on the tannins but things are ironed out and seamed together nicely. A core of tart black currant and blueberries starts things off, and the non-fruit elements shine (black pepper, all sorts of soil and rocks, mineral/graphite accents, hints of barbecue sauce). A lot to parse through, this is focused and deep young but will age wonderfully, and those savory complexities will really pop. 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Petit Verdot and 20% Malbec. (94 points)

Troon Vineyard

Anyone who has read my wine writing over the past decade has likely heard about Troon, located in southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley. This producer casts a wide net in terms of varieties and styles, with a serious commitment to the land. Dick Troon first planted vines out here in 1972, and their unique terroir along the Kubli Bench provides a beautiful canvas for their wide variety of bottlings. They’re regenerative organic certified, practice biodynamic farming and winemaking, along with carbon sequestration efforts. And their wines are consistently awesome, and somehow not that expensive.

I’m focusing on their Druid’s Red and White blends, which I think would be a great introduction into this producer’s approach and style. Like the seasons, the blends are different each year. They’re so food-friendly and crowd-pleasing, so they’d be a good call for holiday festivities.

2022 Troon Vineyard Druid's White - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. A tropical, floral bouquet with pineapple, lemon curd, kiwi, and papaya, topped in chalk dusty, crunchy sea salt and river rocks, with honey and almond skin. The palate has a smooth texture and crisp acidity with green and yellow pears and apples, along with kiwi, mixed with orange blossom, dandelion, some sliced cucumber, and sea salt. There’s a focused mineral presence underneath as well. This is so much fun. This vintage is a blend of Vermentino, Marsanne, Lagniappe, and other grapes. (90 points)

2022 Troon Vineyard Druid's Red - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley

SRP: $25
Vibrant purple color. The aromas show a tangy compote of plums, raspberries, and tangy blueberries, along with violets, potting soil, some light roast coffee, and all sorts of herbs and spices. The palate is super zesty and bright, with tangy wild raspberries and strawberries, saucy plums, cranberry jam. I enjoy the clay and earth tones, with violets and herbal tea. So fun and juicy, crushable yet complex. A great combination. An exciting kitchen sink blend of grapes like Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Tannat, Negrette, and others. (90 points)

Gamble

Maybe I’m biased because my parents are, technically speaking, mill keepers. In the rural foothills of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, they’ve rejuvenated an historic mill property from neglect and overgrowth over the past 15 years. That’s where I planted a failed vineyard, and spent countless days fishing, working the property, bird-watching, enjoying nature and family.

I’m always a supporter in wineries that take part in various charitable or actionable work on behalf of different conservation goals. And this brand is a supporter of the National Parks Conservation Association and a partner of one Napa Valley’s Bale Grist Mill State Park. This wine is delicious, reasonably-priced, and one worth sharing or gifting.

Gamble’s higher-end Napa Cabs are real gems. I’ve been a fan of them for many years, and they’re the type of Napa Cabernet that is delicious upon first taste and keeps rolling out the nuance and complexity over the course of hours or days. If you’re gifting a Napa Cab lover (or just buying for yourself), I’d go for two – one for this season, and one to bury and forget about for five to eight years.

Non-Vintage Mill Keeper Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California

SRP: $26
Light purple color. A warm and inviting nose of roasted figs, tangy red currants, sweet black cherries, along with scents of coffee, toffee, smoky earth, and chewing tobacco. The palate is ripe and plush but shows good depth and texture, with chewy tannins and fresh acidity. Plummy, saucy plums, juicy raspberries, and spiced cranberry relish. Notes of coffee grounds, dark chocolate shavings, and some cool earthy, tobacco, and sage tones. A crowd-pleasing, fun, but balanced Cab that’s a blend of vintages and Napa sites. (90 points)

2018 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60 

Rich purple color. Aromas of warm currant and fig compote, with tangy black cherries, vibrant and deep fruit, mixed with complex tones of peppered steak, dried violets, tobacco, and a host of rocky, mineral, smoky earth, and charcoal vibes to parse through. Suave, juicy, well-structured tannins, the palate is kept aloft by vibrant acidity, and I get flavors of black currants, roasted fig, and blackberries. The complexities of roasted red pepper, sage, grilled steak, and dried flowers offer a lot of deliciousness and intrigue. This has a long life ahead, and I really look forward to where these savory tones go, and to see this wine resolve into a beauty. Drink now with a good decant or let it sit for five or eight years. Includes 7% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot, 5% Cab Franc, and 3% Malbec aged in 40% new French oak for 20 months. (94 points)

California on the mind: special selections

California has been on my mind a lot lately. I’ve been following harvest reports and wineries as they prepare the 2022 vintage. And with the long-term drought, the recent heat wave, and now there’s a threat of flooding from hurricane leftovers? Sheesh! I hope you any California readers have been staying cool and well over this stretch.

So, this week, I have some really special wines from California to share – some chosen selections from producers I’ve grown to respect and appreciate.

Singer Wines at Baker Lane Estate really comes out swinging with two exceptional Rhone wines. Made by legend Stephen Singer, the wines from this west-facing site in the Sebastopol Hills speak with a crystal-clear voice to their place and grapes. If you’re looking for highly delicious yet nuanced Syrah and Viognier, these small-production wines are definitely worth your time and money.

Eden Rift makes some focused and singular Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, and it was a privilege to taste their 2019s. From the limestone-rich soils of the Cienega Valley, these are wines you taste and can just tell they come from a very special place. Especially considering the prices, the wines consistently overperform, and the 2019s are singing.

Sonoma is well represented here, including by Sonoma-Cutrer’s new Grand Brut Rosé, which certainly overdelivers for the price. LaPelle performs with a striking Bien Nacido Pinot Noir, and DuMOL’s Pinot offering is also delightful. Lastly, I also have a Paso Robles Cab that’s a whole lot of fun -- Tooth and Nail’s wines are reliably delicious and this Cab is like a chunky slab of rock-and-roll in the glass, for a solid price.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Sonoma-Cutrer Grand Brut Rosé Winemaker's Release - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $55
Deep copper color. A gorgeous aromatic display that combines raspberries, white cherries and tart yellow apples with richer tones of honey and biscuits and bracing elements of chalk and talc. On the palate, this is crisp and nervy, pure and racy, with a core of red apple, raspberry and white cherry fruit. The balance is delightful, and it has this deep but crunchy feel, with tones of biscuits, honey and hay tossed with seashells, minerals, flowers, combining for this ocean meets spring meadow appeal. Complex and nervy, this should age wonderfully and is one of the best California sparkling wines I’ve tasted in a while. 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay. (93 points)

2021 Singer Wine Viognier Baker Lane Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $75
Medium yellow color. Classic deep Viognier aromas, but it has a lot of unique twists and turns that are a delight to follow: banana, kiwi, white peach, with honeycomb and raw almond, notes of chalk dust and sea salt. On the palate – wow! – the acidity is racy and fresh (thankfully) which balances well with the deep, waxy texture and juicy papaya and pineapple fruit (a drizzle of lime in there, too). The floral tones are perfumed but nuanced, and tones of chalk dust and saline are welcomed. Creamy but fresh, a delightful Sonoma Viognier worth seeking out. From a cool, west-facing site that really shines through, this is 13.8% alcohol and aged five months in neutral oak. (93 points)

2019 Singer Wine Syrah Baker Lane Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $95
Deep purple color. The nose is delightfully spicy, with these paprika, red pepper flakes and black pepper dusted over a host of fresh blueberries and tart red plums – and it works so, so well. The tangy acidity sets the stage, dusty but structured tannins offer structure and grip, while the balance and freshness are on point. Tangy blackberries and red/black currant fruit mixes with lots of violets, clove, black pepper, with loamy earth and a hint of barbecue sauce and grilled meat. Spicy, fresh, floral, delicious, this will do wonders in the cellar, too. 15% whole cluster fermentation, includes 2% Viognier, aged 26 months in 450-liter puncheons, 13.8% alcohol. (94 points)

2020 DuMOL Pinot Noir Wester Reach Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $80
Medium ruby color. So alive on the nose including red cherries, plums and raspberries, with a complex web of spice and floral elements (rose hips, rhubarb, cola, white pepper, tobacco, sage). The palate shows crisp acidity and smooth, structured tannins with a juicy, fresh appeal. The raspberry, red apple and cherry fruit is crunchy and zesty, and it mixes well with complexities of earth, rhubarb, tomato leaf, with nuanced cola, roasted chestnut and birch elements. Vibrant, forward but earthy and dusty. This should do nicely with three or four years in the cellar but it’s expressive already. A blend from vineyards including Flax Estate, DuMol Estate, Occidental Road and others, aged 12 months in 25% new French oak. (92 points)

2019 Eden Rift Chardonnay Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley
SRP: $42
Rich gold color. The aromas are so bright and spritely, with chalk dust, yellow flowers, meadow breeze, with lemons, limes and pineapple. Pure and crisp on the palate, a zippy yet creamy mouthfeel, delightful balance. The yellow apple, lime and papaya fruit blends well with flinty minerals, clover, honey, accents of almond and candle wax. Deep texture but stays racy and feels effortless throughout. So much Chardonnay goodness for the price. (93 points)

2019 Eden Rift Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley
SRP: $48
Bright ruby color. On the nose, this is airy and floral, and I get tart cranberry relish, pomegranate fruit and red cherries. Full of seasonings and spices (white pepper, clove, rhubarb, celery seed), and the combination is invigorating. On the palate, this is smooth and silky but structured, with lip-smacking acidity and a bright, balanced feel. Tangy raspberries and red apple peel, such pretty texture and mouthfeel, with elements of clay, rhubarb, dusty earth, rose petals and white pepper. This will age marvelously. (93 points)

2019 Eden Rift Pinot Noir Palmtag Block - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley

SRP: $78
Gorgeous ruby color. So breezy and floral on the nose, yet such depth, too: rose hips, rhubarb, white pepper, oregano and basil over top of crunchy cranberry and wild raspberry fruit. Crisp acidity and fine-grained tannins make for a pure and balanced wine, and the red fruit is vibrant and alive (cranberry, red apple, raspberry). Complex notes of rhubarb, rose petals, paprika and white pepper add a lot to ponder, and the mouthfeel is fantastic. Their first single-block Pinot, from between the flatter vineyards and the terraces. A real beauty that has a lot more to show in the cellar. (95 points)

2020 Tooth & Nail Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $26
Vibrant purple color. Juicy but pretty on the nose with cherries and plum sauce, along with savory and spicy elements of clove, anise, creosote and pepper – has a real grill-out vibe that is a ton of fun. Suave on the palate with enough acidity to keep it lively and a chewy but nuanced feel. Blackberry, raspberry and fig fruit meld well with tones of tar, roasted red pepper and graphite. Ripe and fun but quite complex and balanced as well. Aged 10 months in 25% new French oak, this bottle has an augmented reality character-driven label as well. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Delicious finds from California and Arizona

This week, I have a selection of American wines I find exciting.

For many years, I’ve been touting Arizona wines, and I’m here to do it again. I love a lot of Arizona producers, their DIY winemaking culture, the interesting mix of varieties and styles. One of my favorite activities in life is to go climbing and hiking in some Arizona mountains and come home to a delicious local red blend with a grilled steak. Aridus is a great entry into Arizona wines, as this Willcox-based producer has a lot of different bottles available in a bunch of markets.

I’m also a huge fan of amphora wines (grapes fermented on their skins in clay vessels). It’s been done all around the world in ancient winemaking cultures, from Georgia, Italy and Portugal. I spent a lot of time digging into the amphora winemaking culture in Alentejo a few years ago, and I’ve been keenly watching for New World producers who step up and make wines in this method and style. Behold! Beckmen Vineyards delivers with their “1Ingredient” wines. From Ballard Canyon, these wines are pure expressions of their grapes and place, but also of their fermentation method – as the wines offer this beautiful mouthfeel and elegant complexity. Check this out if any of this sounds interesting.

Booker is a Paso Robles producer I’ve known and respected for a while. Their wines are so exciting and delicious, and offer a ton of value, too. Paso is such a dynamic scene, and I always enjoy keeping up with what they’re doing out there – and Booker is a staple and legend for a reason.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Beckmen

2020 Beckmen Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 1ngredient – USA, California, Central Coast, Ballard Canyon
SRP: $50
Light orange color. Gorgeous nose of pineapple and lemons mixed with honeyed white tea. There are this complex notes of raw almond, breezy spring air and flowers, some candle wax and hints of sage and dusty earth. The palate shows crisp acidity, it’s refreshing but shows such a rich, dynamic mouthfeel, layered, chalky, briny – I love it. Lemon and quince fruit mix so well with these raw almond, green olive and salt brine tones. Honeyed, bright, spicy, there is a lot going on here. If you’re looking for an out-there but delicious Sauvignon Blanc, give this a look! Fermented and aged on the skins in amphora for 10 months. (92 points)

2019 Beckmen Vineyards Viognier 1ngredient – USA, California, Central Coast, Ballard Canyon
SRP: $65
Deep orange color. An inviting but also head-scratching aromatic display, with orange peel, honey, shaved ginger, lemon drops, pineapple, white tea – fascinating stuff. On the palate, this acidity is laser-focused, which becomes key in balancing these complex textural dynamics. Yellow apples, lemons, pineapple, laced with salted almonds, ginger, honeysuckle, with some mineral undertones. Delicious, intriguing, adventurous but clean, like a gateway band into a unique genre, this wine has a ton to offer. Fermented and aged on the skins in amphora for 10 months. (92 points)

2019 Beckmen Vineyards Syrah 1ngredient -­ USA, California, Central Coast, Ballard Canyon
SRP: $85
Light purple color. Wow, the nose is so floral and breezy, like red cherries, pomegranate and rose petals on a spring meadow. The earthy, savory, peppery vibes are delightful. On the palate, this sports dusty tannins and a crisp, nervy appeal. Tangy raspberries and currants, so pure and racy, light and crisp, yet there’s a lot of depth as well. Rose petals, violets, earth, pepper, sage, creosote, a lot going on here. There’s a stony, mineral essence and a post-rain high desert hike feel about this wine – a focused and singular Syrah. Aged 10 months on the skins and then an additional year in amphora. (94 points)

Booker

2020 Booker Vineyard White – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $65
Rich yellow color. The nose shows creamy pears and peaches, honey, graham cracker crumbs, with higher-toned notes of chalk and floral perfume. Creamy, waxy texture, but surprising acidity, with pears and honeyed apples. Notes of nougat, honey, hay, so plush, pristine and fun, a rare occasion of a lively Rhone white-based blend. Would love to see how this ages. What a cool mix of Viognier with 33% Roussanne, 10% Chardonnay, 7% Marsanne, aged in 60% new French oak. (92 points)

2019 Booker Vineyard Harvey and Harriet – USA, California, Central Coast, San Luis Obispo County
SRP: $30
Deep purple color. Wow, these waves of blackberries and blueberries with a smooth, inviting appeal, along with eucalyptus, violets and cocoa. Full and smooth on the palate with velvety but structured tannins, and the vibrant acidity is killer. Tart blueberries, tangy black currants, the fruit is tart and deep but laced with beefy, savory, peppery tones. Eucalyptus, white pepper, violets, tar, clove, there’s also this stony, mineral, earth depth. Fan-friendly but complex and nerdy, too – a win-win, and a lot of value. Cabernet Sauvignon with Syrah, Petite Sirah, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec, aged 18 months in 60% new oak. (91 points)

2019 Booker Vineyard My Favorite Neighbor – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $50
Bright purple color. Juicy and deep on the nose with blueberry pie, roasted figs, along with earth, smoky, beefy tones, with mocha and toffee – a lot going on. The palate shows a suave a smooth mouthfeel with lively acidity and dusty tannic structure. Black currant and blueberry fruit mixes well with complex tones of gravelly road, mesquite, coffee grounds, black tea. Concentrated and age-worthy, but vibrant as well. Gorgeous stuff. 77% Cab with 11 % Petit Verdot, 8% Petite Sirah, 3% Syrah and 1% Malbec, aged 18 months in 70% new French oak. (93 points)

2018 Booker Vineyard Syrah Fracture – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $98
Dark purple color. The nose shows a gorgeous mix of smoky, beefy, mesquite and leather over top of tart blackberry and currants, deep yet inviting. The palate shows structured tannins and gobs of fruit, but we have to talk about the acidity – marvelous! Keeps it fresh as the black currant and blueberry fruit washes over, along with notes of graphite, iron, black pepper, black olives, mesquite and roasted red pepper. Big but complex and nuanced, this will age wonderfully for a long time. Really impressive stuff Syrah that has earned its reputation. All Syrah aged 18 months in 65% new French oak. (95 points)

Aridus

2021 Aridus Sauvignon Blanc – USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $35
Pale lemon color. Smells like a mix of lemons, white peaches, with cucumbers, chalk dust, some white pepper – interesting! Which is a lot more than I can say for Arizona SB. On the palate, this has a cool mix of bright acidity and creamy texture, with lemons, grapefruit, orange peel, tossed with mint, white pepper, along with some honey and white flowers. Really pleasant and as weird as Arizona SB may sound, this is a wine worth checking out. (88 points)

2019 Aridus Viognier – USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $35
Medium yellow color. The nose shows rich yellow peaches and pineapple, along with honey, hay and some whipped butter. Rich and creamy (of course) but there’s also this salty, perfumed tones. Yellow apples, orange marmalade, pear butter, mixed with honey, graham cracker. But there are also these balanced elements of flowers and bright lemon zest. Delicious. Aged 19 months in old French oak. (88 points)

2019 Aridus Graciano – USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $46
Deep purple color. The aromas show a mix of smoky tar, jammy blueberries and blackberries, along with cocoa, anise, and these gravelly, earth tones. Chewy tannins on the palate, low acidity holds this back, but enjoyable ripe cherries and plums. Plum cake, cocoa, tobacco, this is sun-roasted Graciano goodness. Aged 16 months in oak. (87 points)

2018 Aridus Syrah – USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $46
Deep purple color. Smells of plum cake and black cherries, saucy and spicy with tobacco, mint, cocoa, anise, scorched earth. Smooth tannins on the palate with moderating acidity and a chewy feel with the black cherries and saucy plums. Peppery, smoky, coffee-y, with barbecue sauce and beef jerky. Lots of fun, ripe but nuanced, this is a great intro into what can be done with Syrah in Arizona. Includes 10% Viognier, aged in 50% new French oak. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

California Cabernets and Wolf Wines

I’ve recently returned from a wonderful trip to Portugal and am back to focusing on some goodies from California.

Napa Cabernet is classic for a reason, and I’ve got some solid ones this week.

Since opening in 2014, Hamel has been putting out some really exciting wines from Sonoma Valley and Moon Mountain District. This was my first time trying their Nuns Canyon Cab and, just, wow. Calla Lily comes out swinging with two delightful Cabs worthy of consideration and cellar space, followed up by Cliff Lede’s latest Stag’s Leap Cab offering.

This was my first time tasting wines from Napa’s Lobo Wines. The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir offered a lot more brightness and finesse than I was expecting, and the reds offer a lot of earthy, spicy vibes to enjoy. They planted their first Chardonnay vines in Oak Knoll about 20 years ago, and then found their 42-acre Atlas Peak property in 2007.While not inexpensive, these wines really deliver for the price.

Ram’s Gate makes another appearance here with two exciting wines. Their Chards and Pinots are delicious across the board, but this new Hyde Chardonnay is really something. And Paso’s Tooth and Nail keep on trucking with some burly but well-made red blends.

These wines were received as trade samples. For this report, I tasted the Cabernets below single-blind, and the rest of the wines sighted.

Cabernets

2018 Hamel Family Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Nuns Canyon - USA, California, Sonoma County, Moon Mountain District
SRP: $160
Deep purple color. Dark and saucy on the nose with a core of tart blueberries and deep black cherries, mixed with lots of eucalyptus, mint, chewing tobacco, some coffee and tilled soil, just a gorgeous aromatic display. Solid grip, vibrant acidity, built so well with tangy, crunchy blueberries and dark currants. The stony, graphite, charcoal, pepper and cocoa accents are really attractive, and there’s this focused, fascinating minerality underneath that is awesome. Fermented in a mix of concrete, steel and oak and aged 20 months in French oak, this has a mighty long life of growth ahead of it. (94 points)

2017 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Ultimate Red - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $65
Dark purple. The nose shows a warm, inviting mix of currants and blackberries, tossed with classic Napa Cab goodness like eucalyptus, cedar, coffee – a lot to unpack. Full but fresh on the palate with structured but suave tannins and lively acidity to balance it out – the mouthfeel is just gorgeous. Juicy black cherry fruit blends well with a mix of coconut shavings, cola and clove, along with tilled soil, rocky earth and graphite. There is a lot going on here, and it really needs some time, but the core of quality is so solid. Cabernet with Cab Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, aged 22 months in 40% new French oak. (92 points)

2016 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Audax - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $120
Vibrant purple color. Deep, concentrated yet lively aromas of tart plums, currants and cherries, tossed with roasted herbs, anise, cedar and cocoa – a lot going on and its all warm and inviting. Full-bodied, smooth but structured tannins, balanced with vibrant acidity. A tangy, juicy core of black cherries and blueberries, gorgeous fruit, mixed with cool notes of roasted red pepper, charcoal, coffee, and an underlying sense of gravelly earth and graphite. Really well done, this could use five years and will improve for many more. Aged 27 months in 50% new French oak. Cabernet with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. (93 points)

2019 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
SRP: $82
Bright purple color. The tangy blueberry and black cherry fruit aromas are backed up by incense sticks, cedar, cocoa, mint, pencil shavings and stony earth. Bold but smooth, structured tannins, moderating acidity, the balance is really nice. Dark but lively blackberry fruit, tossed with tar, gravel, loam, charcoal, along with nuances of coffee and cedar. Nice and deep, well-made, balanced, this could use at least a few years but already showing refinement and finesse. Includes a combined 18% Merlot, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot, aged 21 months in 38% new French oak. (92 points)

Lobo Wines

2020 Lobo Wines Chardonnay Wulff Vineyards - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District
SRP: $70
Light yellow color. Really interesting nose of lemons and yellow apples, with nice shots of sea salt and brine, topped with crushed walnut and whipped honey – really nice. Beautiful texture on the palate, shows a honeyed feel with medium acidity, paired with lemon slices, ripe white peaches and yellow apples. Chalky, flinty, salty, mineral undertones make this really exciting, while richer notes of nougat, whipped butter and honey add depth and enjoyment on the finish. Full maloactic fermentation, aged in 75% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Lobo Wines Pinot Noir Wulff Vineyards - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District
SRP: $N/A
Bright cherry color. Smells dusty and earthy in a very pleasant way, with rhubarb, white pepper, some beef jerky and rose hip tones, all over tangy cranberry and red cherries. Fresh and zippy on the palate with sweet raspberry and tangy strawberries, dusty tannins. Notes of roses, clove, pepper, earth, along with cedar and light roast coffee, woven in nicely. Juicy, tangy, spicy, elegant Pinot Noir here. (91 points)

2018 Lobo Wines Pinot Noir Wulff Vineyards - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District
SRP: $50
Deep ruby color. The nose is vibrant but sweet with red plums and pomegranate fruit, along with rose petals, clove, pepper, dried flowers. Smooth tannins, the acidity is zesty, it is balanced well with raspberry and black cherry, some cranberry relish, tangy but warm and silky. Clove, leather, dried rose petals, notes of savory spices and clay earth come out with time. Delicious now but could show some cool elements with a few years. Aged 11 months in 35% new French oak. (90 points)

2018 Lobo Wines Howl Wulff Vineyards - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District
SRP: $70
Lively purple color. Aromas of cherries and dark currants, laced with a fun host of black pepper, beef drippings, charcoal, with violets and dark, scorched earth. Tangy currants and blueberry fruit over a bed of chewy tannins and zesty acidity. The pepper, paprika, roasted red pepper, soy and balsamic glaze notes add spicy, savory goodness, which lingers long on the finish with the dark fruit. Already showing a lot of complexity, but two or three years (or sipping over a few days) will do this Syrah good. Syrah with 28% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot. (90 points)

2019 Lobo Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Wulff Vineyards - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $80
Deep purple. A warm nose of black cherries and saucy currants, with mesquite, pepper, coffee, dark chocolate shavings, forest floor. Full and suave on the palate, smooth tannins and the acidity is medium. Ripe black currants, cherry preserves, tangy black cherries, the fruit is mixed well with notes of violets, tobacco, toffee and coffee grounds. A sweet, chewy finish but stays lively and nuanced. Stainless steel fermentation, aged 18 months in 70% new French oak. Great to go now or hold for a few. (90 points)

2018 Lobo Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Atlas Peak
SRP: $95
Bright purple color. Wow, the nose is deep but lively with a cool blend of blueberries and tangy black cherry fruit, laced with warm black tea, tar, anise and cracked black pepper. Velvety but well-built tannins on the palate, vibrant acidity, with suave plums and blackberry fruit. Notes of magic marker, cocoa, mint and clove add a lot to ponder, and there are dusty, earthy, oregano, pencil lead and leather notes that really pop as well. A lot to unwrap, I’d give this five or six years, but it shows a lot of depth, personality and concentration. Aged 18 months in 75% new French oak. (92 points)

Others

2019 Ram's Gate Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard - USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $70
Medium yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd and yellow apples laced with notes of meringue, ginger, honey and nougat – a rich but inviting display. Creamy, deep texture with zesty acidity and gorgeous balance. Lemon and papaya fruit, rich but zesty, with complex notes of meringue, white flowers, sea salt, shaved almond. Pure, focused, crystalline, this will age wonderfully. One of the best Chardonnays I’ve tasted from this producer. (93 points)

2019 Ram's Gate Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $85
Deep ruby color. Aromas of bright cherries and raspberries, mixed with complex notes of cola, rhubarb, white pepper, notes of pepperoni and paprika. The palate shows a zippy and a dusty tannic frame over top of tangy raspberry and cherry fruit. Notes of rose petals, tobacco, pepper and spiced black tea add quite a bit of complexity. Balanced, vibrant, earth and minerals on the finish. Refined, pretty Carneros Pinot. (92 points)

2019 Tooth & Nail Wines The Stand - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $36
Dark purple color. Nose shows roasted figs, saucy plums, with coconut shavings, coffee, toffee, rich but nuanced and vibrant. The palate shows sweet tannins and moderate acid, a chewy and full texture wih notes of cocoa, coconut, black pepper, caramelized sugar. Fun and chewy but refreshing and complex as well, this begs for steak and grilled vegetable kabobs. Petite Syrah, Syrah and Viognier, aged 15 months in 1/3 new French oak. (90 points)

2019 Tooth & Nail Wines The Possessor - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $36
Deep purple color. The nose is full of fig paste, rich and saucy blueberries, smoky, beefy rontes, with cocoa, cedar, graphite and anise – a lot to unpack. Jammy and plush on the palate, chewy tannins, smooth acidity. Plums and blackberry jam mixes with notes of cocoa, toffee, anise and cocoa. A deep, but inviting wine. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Syrah and Malbec. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

New Releases from California and Oregon

Happy belated new year. I’m back this week with a round-up of new releases from California and Oregon for my first reviews of 2021. And I’m starting off with some good stuff.

Merry Edwards, whose wines I fell in love with on one of my first California wine trips, comes out swinging with four rocking single-vineyard Pinots from the 2018 vintage.

Paso Robles’ Rabble Wine Company puts out several brands. Aesthetic and marketing matters, and they seem to do a great job of it, while maintaining quality in the bottle that could make you a return customer.

Long-time readers will have seen Troon’s wines on here before, and I have a lot of respect for this producer and their wines. Always experimenting with different styles, grapes, this biodynamic winery puts out nerdy but pristine and highly delicious wines in so many styles it seems there’s something for everyone in their portfolio.

Some other new releases round out this report. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White wines

2018 Talbott Chardonnay Block 50 South Sleepy Hollow Vineyard ­- USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $60
Rich yellow color. The aromas are deep and suave, with bruised pears, yellow apples, with complex floral tones, cinnamon crumb cake, honeycomb. Plump texture on the palate but moderate acidity keeps it vibrant throughout. Juicy flavors of yellow pears and apples, with apricot jam, mix with complex floral tones (honeysuckle, orange blossom). Notes of honey, graham cracker and brown sugar contrast against a chalky element. Rich but vibrant and fresh, too, this should age nicely. (90 points)

2018 Rabble Wine Company “Stasis” Grüner Veltliner - USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
SRP: $41
Medium yellow color. Inviting aromas of yellow apples, limes, along with this pretty combination of floral and spicy elements (honeysuckle fresh ramps) with honey and chalky elements as well. Precise acidity frames the wine nicely on a zesty, focused frame with delicious yellow apple, kiwi and lemon fruit. A crunchy, salty, floral appeal, with honeysuckle, ginger, cucumber slices and celery seed tones. A lot going on, bright and complex, but it’s also so fun and crushable, too. (90 points)

2018 Grieve Family Winery Double Eagle White Wine - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $48
Medium yellow color. Rich aromas of honeydew, pineapple and yellow apple with honeyed, floral tones but also these vibrant tones of hay, chalk and mint. Plush texture on the palate, vibrant acid, with flavors of white peach, pineapple and lemon tart fruit. Notes of chalk, minerals, tomato leaf and sea salt add complexity. Nuanced, plump but fresh, this Sauvignon Blanc has lovely clarity and focus to it. (90 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Côtes du Kubli Blanc - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Deep yellow color. Aromas of lemon, orange, yellow plum, a rushing display with notes of sea salt, white tea, honey, all sorts of flowers. A juicy, creamy mouthfeel but, considering the blend, the acidity is really surprising, offer pleasant moderation for the yellow plum, orange marmalade fruit, lime notes, too. Honey, marzipan and floral tones add complexity. Lovely stuff to serve with savory dishes on a cold night. Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne fermented with native yeasts in Old French oak. (91 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Amphora Amber - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
An orange, light gold color. The nose is bright, with orange peel, lemon, has a natural but focused appeal with wildflowers, crushed sweet tarts, quinine and talc. On the palate, this shows chunks of pineapple, orange peel and preserved lemon, plump but shows some medium-low acidity as well. Complex notes of crushed shells, floral perfume and subtle notes of mint, tobacco and earth. Really enjoyable and unique. Fermented in amphorae, two with whole grapes, one with whole cluster. (90 points)

Red wines

2017 Rabble Wine Company Tooth & Nail Wines “The Stand” - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Deep, roasted figs, blackberries and black currant compote, with cedar, coffee, tar and sweet cocoa. Juicy and full on the palate with velvety tannins, surprisingly fresh acidity. Jammy blackberries, blueberries, roasted figs, laced with cocoa, coffee, graphite, scorched earth, pepper and tar, yet this forward, winter-hearty wine shows vibrancy throughout. 85% Petite Sirah, 14% Syrah, 1% Viognier, aged 15 months in 34% new French oak. (89 points)

2018 Rabble Wine Company Rabble Red - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $13
Medium purple color. Jammy aromas of cherries and plums, smoky figs, with vanilla and chocolate covered raisins. Ripe and juicy on the palate with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Flavors of blackberry and smoky figs mix with vanilla, chocolate and coffee tones. Chewy and forward but shows some vibrancy, and has a fan-friendly, disappear at a party vibe to it. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Petite Sirah. (86 points)

2016 Rabble Wine Company “Amor Fati” Syrah Murmur Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $60
Vibrant purple color. Ooh! The nose oozes olives (green, black, some pimentos and garlic cloves thrown in, and I love it) backed up by these tones of beef jerk over top of tangy, juicy cherries and red plums. Full-bodied but fresh with this zippy acidity and some solid but slightly dusty tannins. Vibrant but chewy fruit, cherries and blackberries, along with lots of tobacco, black pepper, leather, lots green olives. Undertones of rocky earth and mineral round out this lovely, complex Syrah that will reward age. Spends 18 months in 30% new French oak. (92 points)

2019 Girasole Vineyards Pinot Noir - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $16
Medium ruby color. Aromas of raspberries, juicy cherries, with roses, cola, suave but shows some spicy, herbal tones as well. Juicy, smooth but fresh on the palate with soft tannins and medium acidity. Raspberry and cherry fruit mix with light roast coffee, nice tones of rose petals and save, nuanced toffee and cola. Fun, fresh, style, ripe but shows a lot of nuance and balance for the price. (87 points)

2016 Grieve Family Vineyard Double Eagle - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $88
Deep purple color. Aromas of juicy blackberries, blueberries, with tar, anise, roasted coffee and cedar, classic, deep, inviting Napa goodness. Full and suave on the palate with velvety tannins and fresh acidity, finely balanced. Ripe blackberry and smoky blueberry with plummy, sauce tones, backed up by complex graphite, mineral, charcoal and tobacco. Boastful but nuanced and fresh, too. Delicious, exciting stuff. Cabernet Sauvignon with 10% Petit Verdot. (92 points)

2017 Sebastiani Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $40
Light purple color. Aromas of smoky earth and mint chocolate chip over top spicy black currants, sweet plums, with pepper and black tea. Full-bodied on the palate with smooth tannins, medium acidity. Juicy and ripe with plush black cherry and plum fruit. Notes of cocoa, toasted coconut and coffee grounds are woven in well. A forward, yummy style, but it has some solid complexity and depth as well. (89 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Bucher Vineyard ­- USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $63
Aromas pop with raspberry and blueberry jams with spicy mint, menthol and clove, backed up by milk chocolate and rhubarb. Full but fresh with a slightly chewy texture and waves of plums, raspberry and blueberry fruit. Cola, rose petals, nuanced notes of toffee and roasted chestnut, complex floral and earth tones as well. Bold but beautiful, smooth and vibrant, and should be stellar in three to six years. (92 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Warrens' Hill Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Green Valley of Russian River Valley
SRP: $66
Cherries galore on the nose, vibrant and floral as well, with roses, violets, tobacco and sarsaparilla. Full-bodied, lively acidity, full of juicy cherries and red plums on a frame of dusty tannins. Complex notes of oregano, roses, coffee, clay and earth, with herbal and minty tones. Vibrant finish, harmonious and complex, the freshest, spiciest iteration in this mix, and it’s lovely. (93 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $63
Aromas of juicy cherries and plums meet notes of violets, cola and sweet oregano. Full-bodied with velvety tannins, a chewy texture with a concentrated feel, but stays vibrant with acidity as well. Deep cherry and roasted figs, wild blueberries, suave fruit mixes well with cola, sage and tobacco. Pretty underlying mineral and earth tones This could use some time, but it’s vibrant and exciting. (92 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Meredith Estate Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $72
The nose boasts sweet plums and deep black cherries, with rich tones of cola, cocoa and coffee. Full and chewy with moderate acidity and a deep core of black cherry and tart plum fruit. Saucy with notes of coffee, toffee, sarsaparilla, roasted chestnut and potting soil. Needs air and time to coax out the nuances, but it’s lovely and good for fans of the deeper style. (91 points)

2018 Troon Vineyard Syrah - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $30
Medium purple color. Aromas of suave black cherries, blackberries, with pepper, cocoa, mesquite, graphite and tilled soil. Full and fresh, nice tannic structure but velvety feel and vibrant acidity. Black cherries and blueberry compote mixes with all sorts of spicy tones (olives, pickling spices, mesquite, charcoal) with violet and cocoa tones. Integrated, lively, spicy, serious stuff for the price. (91 points)

2018 Troon Vineyard Syrah Whole Cluster Fermented ­- USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Medium purple color. So enticing on the nose, deep but vibrant with red and black cherries and currants, figs, and notes of pine, pepper, menthol and charcoal grill. Full-bodied and suave on the palate with bright acidity and a grippy but gorgeous, deep texture. Pretty blueberries and blackberry fruit mix well with complex notes of bacon fat, beef jerky, black olive, scorched earth. A silky, mineral-laden finish. This should age wonderfully over the next decade. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: New Releases from California

This week, we have another round of new releases from California. In recent weeks, I’ve received a lot of different wines (whites and reds) from all over the state, from good bargains for early drinking, to splurge-worthy wines that should be cellared for a few Presidential elections.

For me, Steele wine from Lake County has long been a reputable producer of value-driven wines of high quality and distinction. The current crop of releases keeps going on that same track.

There are a few wines from different Gallo brands in this tasting, and some wines from the Hess Collection as well. I also tasted four wines from Hestan Vineyards (a first for me). These “Stephanie” label wines are sourced from a 56-acre estate vineyard, and all four of these wines hail from that vineyard’s 2015 vintage. I found these four wines (treated the same way in the cellar), offered a nice look into their vineyard and style, and I think the wines are really pretty and offer a lot of value compared to many other Napa reds.

Lastly, Napa stalwart Shafer contributes three exciting wines. And the Relentless Syrah and Hillside Select Cabernet strut their stuff.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.


Whites

2018 Steele Wines Pinot Blanc Bien Nacido Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $20
Pale lemon color. Bright and juicy nose of kiwi, peaches and pineapple, with lots of floral tones (dandelion, honeysuckle, orange blossom). Nice creaminess on the palate, balanced well with bright acidity. Tangy and fresh but plump with lemon curd, pineapple and peaches. Topped in sea spray, floral perfume, cut flower stems, some hints of love and white pepper, too. Lovely stuff at a great price. Stainless steel-fermented (maloactic fermentation, too) and aged in old French oak. (88 points)

2017 Steele Wines Chardonnay Cuvée - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $24
Light gold color. Nose boasts yellow apples, apricot, guava, a tropical but zesty blend with honey, sea salt and wildflowers. Plush texture on the palate, crisp acidity, and there’s a nice mix of papaya, yellow pears, lime juice. Notes of chalk, sea salt, honey and graham cracker add complexity, and there’s this real sense of vibrancy, harmony and balance that is rare to find in a Chardonnay at this price point. Tons of value, highly recommended. Aged eight months in 20% new French oak. (90 points)

2018 William Hill Winery Chardonnay Winemaker's Series - California, Napa Valley, Coombsville
SRP: $50
Medium yellow color. On the nose, yellow apples, juicy pears, oranges, with cinnamon, salted nuts, hay and honeycomb. Medium+ bodied, creamy yet zesty acidity. Juicy green and yellow apples, lemon curd, the fruit is balanced with chalky, crushed shell vibes, and richer notes of nougat and pie crust. Rich and deep but balanced and vibrant as well. Sourced from Haynes Vineyard old vine Wente clone Chardonnay. (90 points)

2017 San Simeon Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $19
Deep gold color. The nose pops with honeybutter, candied pecans, peanut brittle and ginger, over top bruised apple and orange marmalade. Plump and creamy texture with medium acid, and plenty of juicy pineapple, yellow apple and orange marmalade fruit. Hedonistic elements of toasted pecan, honey and oak round out the finish. Rich, fun and yummy. Barrel-fermented (75% new French and American oak), and this goes through about 70% maloactic fermentation. (86 points)

2016 Maddalena Vineyards Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $15
Intense gold color. On the nose: hunks of pineapple, baked apple, with toasted nuts, nougat, whipped honey and cinnamon sticks. Plump and texturally rich with medium/low acidity. Honeyed, waxy and nutty with baked apple and pears and lemon bars. Notes of almond brittle and peanut as well. For fans of juicy, nutty, oaky Chardonnay. This sees 30% new American and French oak, and 35% maloactic fermentation, sourced from three vineyards in Arroyo Seco and the Santa Lucia Highlands. (85 points)

2017 The Hess Collection Chardonnay Panthera - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Rich yellow color. Aromas are rich and inviting, with pineapple, lemon curd, sea salt, ginger, cinnamon. Very pretty texture, plump, full, medium/low acidity but the wine stays lively. Lemon curd, yellow apple and pineapple, topped in ginger, cinnamon coffee cake, and honey tones, but also brighter elements of white flowers and crushed chalky. Bold but nuanced. Aged 18 months in 35% new French oak. (89 points)

Reds

2016 Talbott Pinot Noir Sleepy Hollow Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $45
Medium ruby color. I like these aromas of spicy cranberries, tangy strawberries, with bright notes of white pepper, sweet roses and rhubarb. Medium+ bodied on the palate with soft tannins, and super fresh, zippy acidity. Juicy cherries, spiced cranberry sauce, sweet red plums, the fruit is mixed with rhubarb, clove, white pepper and roses. I like the vibrancy, and these mushroom, earth tones underneath. A lot of personality and freshness. (89 points)

2016 Maddalena Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $17
Vibrant purple color. Smells of sweet plums, blueberry jam, with violets, vanilla and mocha. Full and smooth, chewy and dark with velvety tannins and medium/low acidity. Blackberries and blueberry jam, bold and fruity but not too over-the-top. Notes of anise, dark chocolate and mocha. Juicy and fruit-forward but it holds itself together well for a wine at this price point. (85 points)

2016 San Simeon Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $26
Medium purple color. Nose shows tangy black currants, wild blueberries, with a nice kick of smoky earth, cracked black pepper and green herbs. Fresh acidity frames the wine quite nicely, accessible tannins, the balance is attractive. Tart black currants and black cherries, with notes of incense sticks, spice rub, cocoa and vanilla. Fun, early-drinking style, but it could actually improve for two or three years. Aged 36 months in a mix of new and old French and American. (87 points)

2016 Mount Peak Winery Zinfandel Rattlesnake - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $48
Bright purple color. Smells of sweet black cherries, plum cake, with sweet cocoa, anise, vanilla cookies. Rich and huge on the palate (16%), with chewy tannins and just enough acidity to carry itself. Jammy, juicy, with plums, raspberries, black cherries, roasted figs, with sweet pipe tobacco, coffee, vanilla, hazelnut crème. Lush and bold, but well-done and undeniably delicious. From mostly Monte Rosso Vineyard fruit. (89 points)

2017 Steele Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $28
Medium purple color. Juicy black cherries and smoky cherries on the nose, with charcoal, anise and black pepper notes. Medium/full-bodied, nice grip but the tannins have rounded edges, and the acidity is lively. Dusty, juicy ad pleasantly spicy, as black cherries blend well with nose of rose petals, charcoal, scorched earth and pepper. Smooth coffee and vanilla woven in well. Lots of depth, freshness, and this could even improve for a few years. Impressive Lake County value, per usual from Steele. Aged 18 months in 30% new French and America oak. (88 points)

2017 Steele Wines Cabernet Franc - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $20
Loving the spicy aromas here (oregano, sage, black pepper, clove) on top of juicy cherries and raspberries. Vibrant acidity frames the wine well, a medium-bodied frame, velvety but structured tannins, nicely balanced. Black cherries and raspberry jam topped in anise, pepper, cocoa. Fresh and delicious with a spicy, earthy, herbal, floral finish. Aged 14 months in 30% new French and American oak. (88 points)

2017 The Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Lion Tamer - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Medium purple color. Lush, inviting nose of sweet plums, red and black currants, and lavender, dark chocolate, coffee and vanilla. Full-bodied, velvety and suave with lively acidity, tangy red and black cherries, juicy but fresh fruit. Nicely integrated aspects of coffee, sweet green herbs, black tea, with nuanced vanilla and cedar. Lots going on, but really accessible now. Cabernet, 11% Petite Sirah, 8% Malbec. Aged in 33% new French and American oak for 20 months. (90 points)

2015 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Lot No. 1 - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $175
Dark purple color. Gorgeous, deep nose of currants, black cherries and plum skin, with eucalyptus, sweet pipe tobacco, scorched earth, vanilla – complex! Full and plush on the palate with smooth tannins, and delightful acidity, so the balance works out quite well. Rich, juicy plums, black cherries, black currants. The fruit melds well with complex graphite, charcoal, loamy and rocky earth, sweet pipe tobacco, mint, with notes of vanilla and cedar rounding things out. Long, lush finish. Lovely stuff that will do well with three to five years in the cellar and hold for quite some time. All Cabernet (a blend from various vineyards in Napa) aged 20 months in 97% new French oak. (93 points)

2017 Shafer TD-9 - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Deep purple color. Delightful nose, deep, rich and vibrant, with black cherries, blackberries, topped with scorched earth, graphite, and coffee. Full but smooth, suave and velvety tannins, but vibrant acidity, which keeps it lively. Pretty plum, currant and cherry fruit, with violets, earth and coffee. Complex, structured, deep, but also lively and downright fun to drink. This is delicious now but also could improve over the next handful of years. 62% Merlot, 22% Malbec, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 20 months in all new French oak. (92 points)

2016 Shafer Relentless - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $95
Deep purple color. So much to unpack on the nose, it’s kind of crazy. Gorgeous boysenberry, blueberry and blackberry fruit, tossed with waves of pepper, anise, clove, leather, charcoal and espresso elements. Obviously full-bodied and burly, this is big stuff but the acidity actually keeps it lip-smacking in spite of its richness. The freshest, sweetness blueberries and blackberries, and the fruit is laced with leather, pepper, spicy herbs, charcoal and rocky earth tones. Complex and rich, yet effortless and pure — a beautiful young Relentless that is built the long haul (a decade at least would do it good). Syrah and 10% Petite Sirah, aged 30 months in all new French oak. (96 points)

2015 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap DistrictSRP: $310
Deep, concentrated purple color. The aromas are dark and rich, and the wine needs time to show the full aromatic display: dark currants, plum cake, fig paste, along with violets, espresso, graphite, smashed rocks, scorched earth and vanilla. Full-bodied, grippy and young, but it shows moderating acidity, and it amounts to a bold, concentrated but smooth and integrate feel. Boysenberry, black currants and black cherries abound (exquisite fruit), and it’s matched with complex notes of charcoal, graphite, rocky soil, also vanilla, sarsaparilla and cedar. Concentrated for the long-term, but also already elegant and expressive. All Cabernet aged 32 months in 100% new French oak barrels. (95 points)

2015 Hestan Vineyards Malbec Stephanie Selection - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Dark, saucy purple. Lush aromas of raspberries and blackberries, topped in sweet cocoa, mint, eucalyptus and violets. Full-bodied, smooth tannins, this is velvety and sports crisp acidity, framing the wine nicely. Blackberries and raspberries, accented with coffee, violets, cedar and vanilla. Plush and juicy but it has a bright, floral aesthetic with subtle earth, iron and minerals. Delicious. Includes a 7% mix of Cab Sauv, Merlot and Petit Verdot, aged 28 months in 40% new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Hestan Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Stephanie - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $50
Dark purple color. A nice tart, dark core of black cherries, roasted figs and sweet pipe tobacco. Powerful but suave, with a chewy texture and medium/low acidity. Lots of dark currants, tart blackberries, laced with graphite, smoky charcoal, and cool mint and eucalyptus notes. Lots of depth, but the balance is impressive. Five years should do this well. Includes a combined 16% Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, aged 28 months in 40% new French oak. (89 points)

2015 Hestan Vineyards Red Wine Stephanie - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $85
Inky purple color. Bold aromas of black cherries and cassis, concentrated but suave, with lots of black pepper, smoky charcoal, cedar and pencil shavings. Serious concentration and grip on the palate with tart black currants and juicy black cherries. Complex notes of spicy pepper, wild herbs, eucalyptus, charcoal, violets and anise. There’s a lot going on here, deep and concentrated, but also fresh, this could easily improve for 5-8 years. 32% Petit Verdot, 22% Cabernet Franc, 21% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Malbec, aged 28 months in 40% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Hestan Vineyards Merlot Stephanie - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Medium purple color. Smells of juicy red and black cherries, dark plums, lots of violets, rose petals, sweet coffee, pleasantly earthy elements. Medium/full-bodied with lively acidity, moderate tannins. Smooth plum and currant fruit blend well with potting soil, cigar box, with cedar, smoke and violet elements as well. Nice concentration, but balanced and quite fresh, too. This could do well with a few years in the cellar. Includes 9% Petit Verdot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 28 months in 40% new French oak. (90 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.