Discovering Mount Langi Ghiran’s exciting Australian wines

I’ve been visiting wine regions and writing about wine for about 15 years now. In that time, I’ve had come upon countless discoveries. Those “Aha!” moments when I stumble across some producer who’s been working hard in their own unique site for many years, expressing wines that entice and reward the searcher. And I love how many new (to me) discoveries are still out there. Like Mount Langi Ghiran from Australia’s the remote Grampians region.

Started in 1969 by the Fratins, the estate is located in this cooler area of Western Victoria. They tend to 170 acres of estate vines, all own-rooted, planted in granite sands and red clay loam. The north-south valley helps protect their wines from the heat extremes, and the cold Southern Ocean winds get funneled in, keeping things lively and bright.

Credit: Mount Langi Ghiran

Chief Winemaker Adam Louder grew up just a few miles from the estate, and kicked off his career there in the cellar during high school before doing stints in Napa, Bordeaux, and other regions. He must really have his home turf dialed in, because these wines speak so clearly and honestly.

As a climber, I’m very familiar and attracted to cliff edges. And these Mount Langi Ghiran Cliff Edge wines do give me a shot of that verve and intrigue that warrants the name.

If served these three Mount Langi Ghiran wines double-blind, I like to think I would walk away with these three thoughts: 1) These wines are undoubtedly Australian. 2) They have a verve, depth, and vibrancy that indicates something special is going on here. 3) I would have guessed their prices to be doubled.

This was my first time with this producer, but it won’t be my last, as I’ll seek out these wines in the future. These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz Billi Billi - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Grampians
SRP: $16
Medium purple color. The nose has a juicy, dark blend of plums, blackberries, and blueberries, topped in notes of barbecue sauce, grilled steak with cracked black pepper, and notes of earth and dried violets. The palate shows a cool mix of tangy blue and juicy red fruits, mixed with complex notes of black tea, barbecue sauce, violets, pepper, and oregano. Juicy but fresh and balanced. So fun and spicy, this is a delicious summer grill out kind of Shiraz that’ll please most anyone. (90 points)

2021 Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz Cliff Edge - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Grampians

SRP: $28
Deep purple color. A rich but inviting aromatic display of roasted digs, plum cakes, blueberry jam, with black tea, violets, anise, and sandalwood. The palate is full but suave with integrated tannins and tangy acidity. The fruit is pure and vibrant (wild blueberries, red and black currants, roasted figs), and blends really well with these spicy tones of black pepper, paprika, and anise, with earth, dark chocolate shavings, and graphite. Delicious now but I’d love to see how this ages. (92 points)

2023 Mount Langi Ghiran Riesling Cliff Edge - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Grampians
SRP: $25
Medium yellow color. The nose is fresh and bright with lemon but also juicier tones of pineapple and honey, with some green herbs and mint, some talc and chalk too. The palate sports creamy depth and tingly acidity with flavors of lemon, papaya, and juicy white peach. There’s a good blend of saline, quinine, daisies, basil, all sorts of fresh, floral, pleasantly herbal tones. Very pretty, versatile, and shows a lot of complexity. Aussie Rieslings like this here are just wonderful, and the price point is great. From 45-year-old own-rooted vines. (91 points)

Diverse Australian Shiraz from Two Hands

Syrah is my favorite grape, and I love all of its great iterations.

In a world of increasing uncertainty and change, I find Two Hands wines to be refreshingly reliable. I first tried Two Hands in 2007 or so, and I was a newb and venturing into more “serious” bottles while trying to spend my money wisely. That’s when I tasted some of Two Hands’ Australian Shiraz, and I was hooked. A few years later, I shared a 2002 Ares Shiraz with friends, and the wine and experience was exquisite. It was such a memorable, singular bottle and time that I became a life-long fan.

That said, it had actually been a while since I opened a Two Hands wines, so I was excited to attend a virtual tasting with co-founder Michael Twelftree. When he and his co-founder decided in 1999 to pursue making great Aussie Shiraz and marketing it to the world, I wonder if they imagined it would turn out so well. As a lover and student of wine, I respect what this winery’s approach, from the consistency of quality (of course – that’s first), to the diverse lines of wine they produce, to the whimsical yet meaningful names, the label design and marketing. It seems like a team that take their work very seriously, but not themselves too seriously.

Coming from a background in construction, Michael fell in love with wine at an in-store tasting (just like me) and said, “this magical world of wine unfolded before me.” He continued: “We are always trying to think of everything we do through the consumer’s perspective.” Its a stated goal that rings true to me, as a consumer of these wines.

A long-time player in the U.S. market, he also acknowledged it can be difficult to convey regional differences in South Australia, from the purple-fruited but coastal-influenced McLaren Vale wines to the deeper, more concentrated juice from Barossa. But the more time you spend with these wines, especially when tasting them together, those regional nuances and signatures start to become evident. While I drink far more Syrah from France and the U.S., I love that Two Hands consistently provides Shiraz (and other wines), that speak so eloquently of their place.

While the winery has expanded to acquire new sites in recent years, I found the same quality and vibrancy in this recent tasting that I remember from years and years ago. The alcohol is kept in check, which makes these wines lively and refreshing, and the oak is also used sparingly and efficiently.

If you’ve never tried Two Hands, or if you’re of the opinion Australian wines just aren’t for you anymore, I’d urge you to reconsider. As long as this crew continues doing what they’re doing, there will always be a welcome spot on this Cornas-lover’s table for Two Hands wines.

These wines (all 100% Shiraz) were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Two Hands Shiraz Angels’ Share - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $44
Concentrated purple color with a gorgeous nose of plum cake, blueberries, blackberries, doused in anise, black pepper, scorched earth, mint and cocoa – and the mix is really pleasurable. Full but smooth on the palate with chewy tannins, lively acidity, well-balanced. The fruit is ripe but nuanced and complex, with blackberries, blueberries, plum compote, mixed with interesting notes of black pepper glaze, anise, soy, sauteed mushrooms and earth. The depth is really nice but I really enjoy the refreshing and accessible feel as well. Aged 14 months in 12% new French oak, 14.2% alcohol. (90 points)

2020 Two Hands Shiraz Gnarly Dudes - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
SRP: $49
Deep purple. Tart but deep fruit on the nose (currants and blueberries), along with complexities of violet petals, clove and black pepper. The palate is structured well with smooth-edged tannins and a tart, crunchy appeal to set the stage for the juicy blueberry and dark plum fruit. Tar, violets, pepper, roasted herbs, smoked meats, but really fresh and lively throughout. Juicy but lip-smacking, this is a delightful Shiraz that should hold up nicely as well. Aged 12 months in 13% new French oak, 14% alcohol. (91 points)

2018 Two Hands Shiraz Bella's Garden - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
SRP: $79
Vibrant purple color. Deep and smoky on the nose, with a mix of tart blueberries and black currants, laced with potting soil, scorched earth, eucalyptus and mint, rocky-graphite tones. The palate shows smooth but structured tannins, balanced acidity, and plenty of tart plum, blueberry fruit and black currants, everything lines up really well together. Complexities of tar, chewing tobacco, beef brisket, pepper, paprika – there’s so much nuanced savory goodness in here. Finishes with spiced black tea and violets. Really beautiful stuff that is drinking great right now. Aged 17 months in 13% new French oak, 13.8% alcohol. (93 points)

2018 Two Hands Shiraz Lily's Garden - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $79
Gorgeous purple color. The layers of fruit on the nose are so enticing, with juicy black cherries, dark plums and wild blueberries, along with complex spiced tea, tar, violets, rose petals and earthy-clay tones. The palate is so lively and crisp, which keeps this wine racing forward, and it’s balanced with deep but tart fruit (black cherries, currants, dark plums), and a bed of smooth tannins. The spiced tea, rose petals, tar, black pepper and bacon tones are vibrant and nuanced. The elegance here is really something, and while this is already strutting its stuff, I’d love to see this in four years or so. Aged 17 months in 13% new French oak, 13.8% alcohol. (94 points)

2020 Two Hands Shiraz 'Yacca Block' Mengler's Hill - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley
SRP: $110
Deep purple color. Gorgeous nose of deep blueberry and tangy black cherry, laced with complex notes of mesquite, clay soil, black pepper, violet potpourri, clove and cinnamon, and just an airy and inviting appeal despite the depth and concentration. Full-bodied, nice concentration, vibrant acidity, the balance is delightful, long-aging but a lot to show. Tart blueberries and juicy blackberry fruit, so deep but fresh, and a lot else to unpack: black pepper, tar, violets, smoky earth and eucalyptus tones. This will age wonderfully, but a vibrant, beautiful Shiraz. From a higher elevation site in Eden Valley, this is aged 12 months in 20% new French oak (95 points)

2020 Two Hands Shiraz 'Coach House Block' Seppeltsfield Road, Greenock - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
SRP: $110
Concentrated purple color. The nose on this is really rocking and spicy, with these beefy, smoked sausage, black pepper, anise and paprika tones over top waves of tangy blueberries and black cherries. The palate has great grip and structure but the acidity sings, and the balance is on-point. A tart core of blueberries and blackberries, gorgeous fruit, mixed with complexities of leather, tar, anise, menthol and graphite. Hints of cocoa and smoked meat round out the finish. Concentrated but beautiful Barossa goodness, give this air and or five to eight years, but it’s a special one. Aged 12 months in 20% new French oak. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Vibrant & Delicious Australian Wines from Yangarra Estate

High Sands Grenache. Credit: Yangarrra Estate

Yangarra is one of those producers that has kept me interested in Australian wine when so many other American wine-lovers moved on.

I’ve found their wines boast plenty of sunshiny fruit, but I love the freshness, acidity and non-fruit complexity I get in these wines.

Located in the northeast part of the McLaren Vale, Yangarra is certified biodynamic and focused on the classic Rhone varieties. Grapevines have been planted on the estate since the late 1800s, but its modern history begins in 1946, when Bernard Smart planted unirrigated bush vine Grenache. This became known as the High Sands Vineyard (because of its sandy clay soil), and demand for the fruit from this vineyard grew and grew. Today, Yangarra’s vineyards comprise some 100 hectares, spread into 35 different blocks.

In 2001, Jackson Family Wines purchased Yangarra, and soon after local winemaker Peter Fraser took the helm. He uses wild yeast fermentation and judicious use of new oak, and the resulting wines have a purity of expression that I find really attractive.

I recently tasted through some Yangarra wines, and found across-the-board quality. The ceramic egg and skin-fermented Roussanne, as well as the High Sands Grenache, really stood out and wowed me. I received these wines as trade samples and tasted them sighted.

2017 Yangarra Estate Roussanne - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $35
Rich yellow color. Nose of apricot, lime, papaya, surprisingly vibrant fruit mixed with honey and orange blossoms. Plump texture, real depth on the palate, yet fresh acidity keeps the wine bright. Apricot, lime, green melon, pineapple, lots of fruit but it’s accented by honey, candle wax, white tea and ginger, notes of hay and salted almond. The balance here is really impressive, and the wine finishes clean and fresh. 13.5% alcohol, 100% Roussanne, aged 7 months in French oak, 10% new. (91 points)

2016 Yangarra Estate Roussanne Roux Beaute - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $50
Deep yellow, light orange color. The nose is wonderfully complex. It bursts with lemon curd, honeydew, white peach and lots of floral and spice notes (dandelion, mint, hay), even some subtle earth and desert after rain kind of notes – very cool. Medium-bodied (13.5%) with lovely freshness, beautifully integrated on the palate. Honeydew, lemon curd, peaches, and I love the complex floral tones, smashed rocks, minerals, hay, creosote – really complex and vibrant stuff. The textural depth adds all sorts of dynamics to this fascinating and delicious wine. This is all fermented in eggs, with half of the wine getting 137 days of skin contact. (94 points) 

2015 Yangarra Estate Grenache High Sands - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $100
Light purple color. Deep yet pretty aromatics of red and black raspberries, plums, red cherries, along with complex roses, violets, wild herbs and spices – a lot going on here. Full-bodied but velvety tannins, yet fresh acidity keeps it really lively. Tart cherries, raspberries, plums, the fruit is rich but tangy and laced with mint, eucalyptus, wild herbs, black pepper, rose potpourri, some coffee and cinnamon notes. There’s a deep, pervasive minerality here as well. Bold flavors but a lot of freshness and elegance. Very impressive stuff. From 70-year-old vines in sandy soils aged 11 months in old French oak. (93 points)

2016 Yangarra Estate Grenache Ovitelli - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $50
Deep ruby color. Such pretty aromatics of raspberries, red cherries, candied apple peel, along with a host of spicy, earthy, floral tones (rose petals, rhubarb, spiced chai, clay soil and dusty earth). Full-bodied on the palate with smooth tannins and medium acidity; there’s this effortless, balanced mouthfeel that is great. Flavors of raspberries, cherries and red apple, the fruit is juicy, rich but tart. Complex notes of earth, clay, spiced tea, rose hips, menthol and white pepper – such complexity in here. There’s a lovely briskness despite the richness. Deep, intriguing, lovely Grenache, fermented and aged exclusively in ceramic eggs. (92 points)

2014 Yangarra Estate Shiraz - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $35
Rich purple color. Nose boasts tart black cherries and currants, plums, lots of fruit but shows freshness too, and notes of black pepper glaze, violets, Turkish coffee and mint. Full-bodied, velvety tannins, moderating acidity, and plenty of juicy but tangy black and blue fruit (black cherry, cassis, blueberry). Notes of charcoal, coffee, vanilla, along with pepper, scorched earth and mint. Lots of depth and vibrancy in this wine — classic Yangarra style. All Shiraz, aged 13 months in ¼ new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Yangarra Estate Shiraz Ironheart - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $100
Deep purple. Deep aromas of black cherries, dark currants, roasted figs, along with violets, sweet cocoa, mint, menthol and warm clay. Full and rich on the palate with velvety tannins and medium acidity. Flavors of roasted figs, plum cake, black cherries, along with mint, pepper, violets, cocoa. There’s some earthy, dusty, spice rub mixed in here, too. A lot going on, and it’s bright despite its richness and depth. I’d love to taste this in five years. Aged 15 months in 45% new French oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

New Releases from Australia

When I first started getting into wine, I fell hard for Australian stuff. Inexpensive, fun, reliable, yummy, it allowed me to explore different regions and grapes without a lot of effort or money. While my wine purchases have moved away from Australia over the years, I never outgrew my love for Australian wine.

And that’s thanks to producers like Wakefield, and many others, make wines that are much more than just fruit and alcohol. I’ve reviewed Wakefield wines before (check them out here and here), and this crop of new releases reinforces my respect for this producer.

The Taylor family kicked off their winery in 1969, after purchasing a 430-acre vineyard near the Wakefield River in the Clare Valley region. These wines are known as Taylor’s in Australia but, due to trademark restrictions, they’re labeled as Wakefield in the Northern Hemisphere.

The Clare Valley wines all come from the Taylor family estate, where vineyards at more than 1,100 feet above sea level vineyards get plenty of sun but receive the benefit if large diurnal temperature swings. The St. Andrews wines come from the estate fruit grown in their terra rossa soil, while the Jaraman wines are blended with fruit from other sites. For this report I also tasted two vintages apiece of Wakefield’s flagship Cabernet, the Visionary, and Shiraz, the Pioneer. They’re expensive, but so, so good.

I’ve also included four other Australian wines, from Jansz, Tyrell’s, Torbreck and Chambers.

All of these wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Wakefield Chardonnay - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $17
Vibrant medium yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd, yellow apples and key lime pie, with sea spray, limestone and toasted nut notes. Plush but crisp acidity, deep and honeyed texture, with plenty of yellow apples, limes. Notes of salty minerals, ginger, cream and toasted bread, this is rich and flavorful but precise, with impressive depth and minerality. (88 points)

2016 Wakefield Chardonnay St Andrews - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $40
Medium yellow color. Nose shows lemon curd, a burst of limes and white peaches, along with saline, white flowers, chalk, and subtle almond and honey butter. On the palate, this is pristine and vibrant, medium-full-bodied with crisp acidity. I love the lemons, limes and white peaches, matched with hay, saline, dandelion, along with nougat and honey. A very pretty, vibrant, compelling Clare Valley Chardonnay. Aged 10 months in 80% new French oak. (91 points)

2016 Wakefield Chardonnay Jaraman Clare Valley/Adelaide Hills - Australia, South Australia
SRP: $25
Deep yellow color. Smells of lemon curd and orange marmalade, along with notes of honey, salted almond and freshly-baked biscuits. Plump texture but moderating acidity, along with plenty of apricot, bruised pear and apples. Notes of cinnamon, almond, sea salt and ginger snap add complexity. Richly flavorful but vibrant, too. This spends eight months in 60% new French oak. (88 points)

2017 Wakefield Riesling - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $17
Light yellow color. Lovely notes of peaches, limes, apricot, along with complex floral, honey and chalky notes. Crisp, dry and so zesty on the palate on a light/medium-bodied frame. Pleasantly plump peach meets zesty limes and green apples, and I get notes of crunchy sea salt, honeysuckle, floral perfume. Juicy and fruity but brisk and fresh, too. (87 points) 

2017 Wakefield Merlot - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $17
Light purple color. Bright but juicy on the nose with sweet raspberries, red and black cherries, along with some violet petals, cola and coffee. Full but smooth with soft tannins and medium acidity. Juicy black cherries, tangy plums, raspberries, the fruit is juicy but fresh and mixed in with some coffee, violets and coffee. Smooth, easy-drinking, accessible, but well-made and vibrant. Aged in a mix of French and American oak, 10% new. (87 points)

2017 Wakefield Shiraz - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $17
Medium purple color. Aromas show sweet plums, blackberries and blueberries, with some eucalyptus, mint and violets. Full-bodied, smooth tannins, surprisingly fresh acidity. Crisp and juicy with blackberries, blueberries and black cherries, which fit well with the espresso, mint, dark chocolate, black pepper and vanilla tones. Delicious but vibrant, this has quite a bit of complexity at this price point. Aged 12 months in American oak. (88 points)

2013 Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon The Visionary - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $140
Dark purple color. Deep, wafting aromas of blackberries, boysenberry and blueberry, rich but crunchy, with mint, anise, wet earth, cedar forest, some vanilla and warm cocoa. Full-bodied with serious grip but the tannins show some velvetiness, too, and the acidity is great and the mouthfeel is lovely. Tart black cherries, black currants, plum skins, along with cocoa, anise, coffee, and complex tobacco, graphite, earth, forest floor. Beautiful, a fresher feel than the 2014, expressive in youth, although this can also age for quite some time. Aged 20 months in French oak. (93 points)

2014 Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon The Visionary - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $140
Rich purple color. Nose boasts tangy, concentrated currants, black cherries, blueberries, along with complex floral and earth tones, lots of clove and coffee and cinnamon sticks. Full and rich on the palate, but lively as well, with fine-grained tannins, moderating acidity, and plenty of tart black cherries, cassis, dark plums. Complex elements of violets, clove, bay leaf, earth, sweet vanilla and coffee. Serious time ahead for this one. Seems more structured and could use more cellar time than the 2013. Aged 20 months in French oak. (93 points)

2013 Wakefield Shiraz The Pioneer - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
SRP: $140
Deep purple color. Aromatically, I get waves of deep, dark fruit (blackberries, blueberries, black cherries) and complex bursts of eucalyptus, black pepper, espresso, violets, anise. Big and full on the palate, built well with tannins but the edges are fine and the acidity here is really inviting and refreshing. Suave blackberry, blueberry, black currant, mixed with coffee, anise, dark chocolate, eucalyptus, with an earthy, peppery finish. Long time ahead but beautiful young. Aged 20 months in French oak. (93 points)

2014 Wakefield Shiraz The Pioneer - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley SRP: $140
Deep purple color. Gorgeous fruit, blackberries and blueberries, juicy and ripe, with espresso, pepper, anise and earth, but I get deep floral complexity here compared to the 2013. Plump, rich, yet velvety, acidity provides some nice balance to the bold blackberry and blueberry fruit. Complex elements of violets, clove, earth, anise, black tea, dark chocolate, and there are lots of savory, earthy tones as well. Velvety but vibrant, this has many years of lovely evolution ahead. Aged 20 months in French oak. (93 points)

N.V. Jansz Wine Company Premium Rosé Brut - Australia, Tasmania
SRP $29
Pale copper color. Super floral on the nose with roses, daisies and honeysuckle, along with plenty of red apple, pomegranate and lemon fruit, some chalky notes thrown in as well. Crisp, so tangy and focused on the palate, but it has the depth to balance it out. Red apples, raspberries, strawberries, crunchy red fruit mixes with musky cologne, white pepper, rose hips, chalk dust, slight biscuits. Crisp but some residual sugar, harmonious, gluggable but complex, too. Champagne method bubbles made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. (89 points)

2017 Tyrrell's Sémillon - Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley
SRP: $25
Medium straw color. Bursting aromas of lime, apricot, topped in sea salt, this is also highly floral with magnolia petals, honeysuckle and white ta. Light and brisk on the palate, this is fresh and accessible with a mix of lime, green melon, apricot and white peach. Notes of cut flower stems, honeysuckle and baby’s breath. Fun, summery and fresh, a light-on-its-feet appeal, but some nice complexity and depth. (88 points) 

2017 Torbreck Shiraz Woodcutter's - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
SRP: $25
Medium purple color. Nose boasts blueberries and saucy black cherries, topped in pepper, barbecue sauce and smoke, some vanilla. Full but smooth on the palate, with chewy tannins and medium-low acidity. Delicious blueberries and blackberries, juicy and saucy, mixed with pepper, black olive brine, espresso, mint and sweet cocoa. Full, forward and smooth, but balanced and well-made stuff to drink over the next few years. All Shiraz, 15% alcohol. (88 points)

N.V. Chambers Rosewood Muscat - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
SRP: $16/375ml
Deep apricot, light brown color. Deep and inviting aromas of clover honey, graham cracker, crème brulee, orange marmalade. Rich and sweet on the palate with a velvety, creamy feel, but some medium acidity that keeps it from feeling too heavy. Flavors of apricot jam, orange marmalade, clove, graham cracker. Lovely depth and spice, a reliably delicious Aussie sticky. 17.7% alcohol, 233 grams/liter of residual sugar, this is aged solera style in old oak casks. (89 points)

This post first appears on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Hickinbothom's Clarendon Vineyard is Producing Killer Aussie Reds

Hickinbotham Clarendon Vineyard is the Australian jewel in the crown of California’s Jackson Family Wines. Purchased in 2012, the winemaking is a coordinated effort between Chris Carpenter (of Napa Cab fame) and distinguished Australian winemaker Charlie Seppelt. 

The site, which sits above the Onkaparinga River, has a long history, as vines were first planted in this area in the mid-1800s. Alan Hickinbotham established the company in 1971, planting dry-farmed Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz on these McLaren Vale slopes.

I recently received four 2015 reds from Hickinbothom, and was impressed yet again with these wines. Sure, they are packed with rich, dark fruit, but they show so much more than that. Depth, complexity, aging potential, vibrant acidity, complex non-fruit elements, these are fascinating wines that, I think, deserve serious respect. The Peake Cabernet was one of the most penetratingly beautiful Aussie wines I’ve tasted in quite a while.

I received these wines as samples and tasted them single blind.

2015 Hickinbotham Merlot The Revivalist - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $75
Light purple color. Nose shows tart but deep fruit (blueberry, dark plum, roasted fig) along with waves of eucalyptus, mint and earthy-tobacco notes. Full and structured with a chewy feel but underlying acidity keeps it fresh. Blackberry, tart blueberry, gushing fruit but so pure and vibrant. Notes of dusty earth, minerals, violets, eucalyptus and mint, with vanilla and coffee woven in well, and some sweet pipe tobacco on the finish. I’d love to bury a bottle of this for 6-10 years, the quality is that high, but it’s also delicious young. All Merlot. (92 points)

2015 Hickinbotham Shiraz Brooks Road - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $75
Bold purple color. On the nose: tart black currants, roasted fig, saucy blackberries, violets, eucalyptus, black pepper glaze, and some vanilla. Full-bodied with solid tannins for structure (but not harsh) and mildly fresh acidity. Blackberry, blueberry and cassis, the fruit is suave and delicious and loaded with violets, cocoa, black pepper, eucalyptus, dark chocolate, earthy and tar tones. Great stuff, but this needs a solid decant or, preferably, a few years of sleep. All Shiraz. (92 points)

2015 Hickinbotham Cabernet Sauvignon Trueman - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $75
Light purple color. Deep and gorgeous nose of rich plums and black currants, but the fruit is laced with complex notes of tobacco leaf, cigar shop, mint, bay leaf, leather, some cocoa and vanilla. Full-bodied with solid tannins, moderating acidity keeps it lively, and the fruit comes in waves: tart black currants, black cherry, chilled plums. Complex and earthy with notes of loam, roasted herb, spearmint chewing tobacco, notes of cedar and vanilla and mixed in but not dominant. Long life ahead here, but this is gorgeous stuff. (94 points)

2015 Hickinbotham The Peake - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $150
Light purple color. Wow, the aromas are fantastic: black cherries, currants, blackberries, loaded with fruit but elegant, too, and backed up with black pepper, bell pepper, iron, chewing tobacco, graphite and dark chocolate. So rich, structured well with serious tannic grip, but the wine maintains an effortless and velvety feel. Rich, plush, bold but not too dense, with roasted plums, currant paste, blackberries, the fruit is yummy but nuanced. Cocoa, graphite, loam, charcoal, grilled herbs and coffee, lots of complex elements here. Beautiful young but burying this wine for a decade and forgetting about it would be a solid move. This blend of 56% Cabernet and 44% Shiraz is sourced from the estate’s oldest vines, planted in 1971. (96 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Vibrant Victoria, Australia Wines from Fowles

We’re off to Victoria, Australia this week, with a look at a range of wines from Fowles.

Fowles is located in one of Australia’s coolest winegrowing regions, the Strathbogie Ranges in Victoria. Located about 80 miles north of Melbourne, this area is home to decomposed granite soils, low rainfall, and plenty of wind, which combine to form fresh wines with vibrant acidity.

Founder Matt Fowles is an avid hunter and gatherer, which is evident in the winery’s branding aesthetic. Fowles releases three lines of wines: Are you Game?, brighter and fresher-styled wines; Ladies who Shoot their Lunch, which Matt Fowles says are designed to be paired with wild game; and Farm to Table, richer wines to pair with farmed meats.

The Farm to Table brand wines can be found in the U.S. market for about $16 a pop, while the Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch wines should cost about $35 per bottle.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Fowles Wine Sauvignon Blanc Farm to Table - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes

Light gold color. Bursting aromatics of white peach, kiwi, orange slices, with honeysuckle and fresh laundry notes. On the palate, creamy but zesty, white peaches, limes and green apples blend well with honeysuckle, floral perfume, and sliced cucumbers. Flora, punchy, but fresh and tasty. (86 points)

2015 Fowles Wine Cabernet Sauvignon Farm to Table - Australia, Victoria, Strathbogie Ranges

Lively purple color. Nose of blueberry, juicy black cherries, violets, sweet coffee, menthol and cedar. Full-bodied with velvety tannins and medium acidity. Dark plums, boysenberry, blueberry jam, mixed with sweet coffee, dark chocolate, cedar, menthol and black tea. Juicy and plump but not simple, this could stand up to lots of hearty foods. (87 points)

2016 Fowles Wine Pinot Noir Farm to Table - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes

Ruby color. Aromas of rhubarb, rose petal, white pepper, on top of cool, crisp, chilled red fruits (strawberry, raspberry). On the palate, some light structure from the tannins but this shows a chilled, crisp vibe, with red cherries, tart red plums. I get notes of cola, rhubarb, menthol, some integrated cedar. Wow, color me impressed with this Victorian Pinot Noir. (90 points)

2016 Fowles Wine Riesling Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch - Australia, Victoria, Strathbogie Ranges

Light yellow color. Aromas of white peaches, lime juice, yellow flowers, chalk dust and quinine. On the palate, mouth-watering acidity, a salty, nervy aesthetic on this wine (which tastes dry or very near it). Lemon, lime, apricot, laced with chalky-mineral tones and spicy floral tea flavors. This would be so great with sushi or spicy seafood or veggie meals. (89 points)

2016 Fowles Wine Chardonnay Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Wild Ferment - Australia, Victoria, Strathbogie Ranges

Light gold color. Aromas of lemon curd, yellow apple, buttercream, sea salt, floral perfume. Medium+ bodied, plenty of refreshing acidity but also plush texture. Flavors of lemon crème and lime, yellow apples, mixed with almond, honeyed tea, buttercream, but also some sea salt and white flowers. Integrated and vibrant, immediately pleasurable but shows significant complexity. (88 points)

2015 Fowles Wine Shiraz Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch - Australia, Victoria, Strathbogie Ranges

Deep ruby color. Aromas of fresh black cherries, wild blackberry, notes of earth, loam and clay, with some black pepper and cedar. Medium-bodied, vibrant, lively acidity, moderate grip on the tannins. Flavors of plums, black cherry, along with cola, eucalyptus, pepper and cedar. Not “light” but more freshness and vibrancy that the term “Australian Shiraz” generally connotes. (89 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Fresh, Fascinating Wines from Australia's Bird in Hand

Credit: Bird in Hand. Adelaide Hills, Australia. 

We’re off to the Australia for this week, focusing on Bird in Hand wines. Hailing from the Adelaide Hills appellation, where their vineyards receive cooling influences from the Gulf of St. Vincent and the nearby Mount Lofty Range mountains, the wines are packed with fresh acidity in addition to gorgeous fruit. 

Founded in 1997 on what used to be a dairy farm, Bird in Hand wines are definitely worth checking out if you’ve long ago soured on heavy, low-acid, candied Australian wines.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Bird in Hand Pinot Noir Sparkling - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $25
A very pale copper color. Brisk and floral on the nose with white cherries, wild strawberries, red apple peel, baby’s breath, some sea salt. A vibrant and lip-smacking wine with vibrant tingly bubbles, but a whole lot of fruit: strawberry, juicy McIntosh apple, apricot and wild raspberries. Juicy but so vibrant, almost dry, with a complex mix of baby’s breath, lilies, sea salt, oyster shell, chalky mineral tones. An, intriguing and delicious Pinot Noir sparkler. (90 points)

2016 Bird in Hand Two in the Bush - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $16
Pale straw color. Aromas of peaches, lime, kumquat, drizzled with seawater, chalk dust and spicy tomato leaf. Medium-bodied with zesty acidity and pure green apple and lime fruit mixed with some richer papaya and guava nectar. There’s a great combination of sea salt, chalk dust and minerals that pervade the wine, and I get complex elements of floral perfume and spiced tea. Complex and gorgeous but you’ll also want a second glass because it’s so damn fresh and fun to sip. A blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Serious wine at a not-so-serious price. (90 points)

2015 Bird in Hand Chardonnay - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $25
Light gold color. Smells of limes, tangerines, white peaches with some almond, sea breeze and white floral tea notes. On the palate this shows precise acidity and plump texture on a medium-bodied frame. Lime drizzled on tangerines, peaches and yellow pears, the fruit is mixes with honey, almond, chamomile tea and chalk dusty. Fresh, vibrant, rich flavors of very nice balance. Indigenous yeast fermented and aged in 20% new French oak. (89 points)

2015 Bird in Hand Chardonnay Nest Egg - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $65
Light gold color. Aromas of kiwi, lime, apricot and bruised yellow apple, along with a combination of salty/chalk notes with richer buttered toast and nougat. On the palate this has a plush, lees-stirred kind of texture but precise acidity, which keeps it fresh and together. Lime, papaya, apricot, it mixes well with sea salt, lemon verbena and some almond and buttery notes. Delicious yet complex, rich yet vibrant. French oak fermentation, lees stirring, maloactic fermentation, so it’s a bold style, but it’s balanced well with vibrant acidity and delicious fruit and non-fruit complexity. (92 points)

2015 Bird in Hand Shiraz - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $30
Dark purple color. Smells like tart black cherries, gushing blueberries, black olives, charred earth and cracked black pepper. Full-bodied (14.5%), this is fleshy and dark with moderate tannic grip, no rough edges, and surprisingly fresh acidity. Plum, black cherries and boysenberry, juicy and dark with smoky tar, black pepper, black olive, charcoal. Vanilla and coffee are woven in well. Bold but elegant and wonderfully well-balanced, solid now but will improve for at least a few years. Aged 16 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)

2013 Bird in Hand Shiraz Nest Egg - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $85
Rich purple color. Gorgeous nose of currants, tart blueberries, blackberry jam, but not just fruit – lots of complex elements of graphite, anise, charcoal, black pepper, vanilla. Full-bodied with structured but rounded tannins and surprisingly vibrant acidity, which is one of my favorite aspects of this wine. Tart black cherry, blueberry and black currant mix well with anise, charcoal, violets, scorched earth and black pepper. Such freshness to balance out the bold fruit, and this has a lot of complex non-fruit elements going for it. Wow. Aged 18 months in French oak, this will improve for at least five or seven years. (93 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

This week we’re focusing on a bunch of wines from all over the world. Most of these wines are inexpensive, easy-drinking wines designed for early consumption, but there are some really impressive bottles in the mix.

We have some solid values from Côtes du Rhône, four interesting wines from the Spanish region of Cariñena, and a few more from Arinzano, a Spanish winery in Aragon that has a D.O. Pago designation and excellent wines to justify it. We also have a few others from Italy, Australia and Argentina thrown into the mix.  

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Trivento Torrontés White Orchid Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza

SRP: $11

Medium straw color. As the name would suggest, this is super floral on the nose, all sorts of white and yellow flowers along with lychee, peach and guava nectar. Light/medium-bodied with some tropical juiciness and moderate acidity. Lots of lychee and apricot with some lime juice, the fruit is laced with perfume and all sorts of orange and pear blossoms. Great picnic or party wine for the lover of floral white wines. A blend of Torrontes and 15% Pinot Gris. (86 points)

2015 Penfolds Shiraz Cabernet Max’s - Australia, South Australia

SRP: $25

Deep purple color. Aromas of blackberries and tart blueberry with some spiced coffee, pepper, and vanilla and cedar notes that are blended in well. Plump and juicy on the palate with some light/medium tannins and some moderate acidity, which helps keep it going. Black cherries and blueberry fruit is bold but stays vibrant, and the fruit is matched with notes of cracked pepper and espresso. Delicious but also nicely structured. 70/30 Shiraz/Cabernet aged 12 months in French and American oak. (87 points)

2015 Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon Max’s - Australia, South Australia

SRP: $25

Deep purple color. Smells like tart black cherries and some blackberry jam along with black pepper, coffee grounds and sweet eucalyptus. Full-bodied, chewy texture, medium/low acidity, approachable but some decent structure. Black cherries and blackberries, gushing fruit, a little tartness to it though, along with loamy soil, dark chocolate and cedar shavings. A fun, accessible Shiraz but shows some structure and depth. Aged 12 months in 10% new French oak.  (87 points)

2016 Concha y Toro Rosé Casillero del Diablo - Chile

SRP: $11

Pale pink color. Fruity and fresh on the nose with strawberries, rose petals, hints of white pepper. Medium-bodied with bright acidity and fresh fruit (strawberries, white cherries, red apple peel). This nationally-available rose is reliable, simple, fun. Syrah with some Cinsault and Carmenere. (85 points)

2016 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Blanc Samorëns - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône

SRP: $14

Medium yellow color. Aromas of peaches, apricots and limes with a white floral notes of honeysuckle and baby’s breath. Medium-bodied, slight creaminess but fresh acidity. This wine is packed with apricot and peach, and topped in some sea salt, honeysuckle, nettle, sliced cucumber. Good weight/freshness balance, a pleasant summer sipper for sure. A blend of Roussanne, Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Marsanne. (87 points)

2016 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Rosé Samorëns - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône

SRP: $14

Light pink. Nose of wild strawberries, white cherries, floral perfume, some lemongrass and white pepper. Crisp and vibrant with plump texture and fresh acidity. Tangy white cherries and bright strawberries, lots of white pepper, spicy herbs, honeysuckle and roses. A lot going on for the price. A blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 20% Cinsault. (87 points)

2015 Castello di Gabbiano Dark Knight - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

SRP: $17

Deep ruby color. Aromas of plum cake, red currant, sweet cherry, vanilla and cedar. Medium/full-bodied with moderate tannins and acidity. Juicy black cherries and saucy blackberry fruit mixes with tobacco, cedar, vanilla and bitter chocolate. Fun stuff but impressive structure. Cabernet Sauvignon with 30% Merlot and 20% Sangiovese, this is the debut vintage of this wine from Gabbiano. (87 points)

2016 Contrade Malvasia-Chardonnay - Italy, Puglia, Puglia IGT

SRP: $10

Medium straw color. Tons of tropical flowers and fruit blossoms on the nose with some kiwi and guava, too. Juicy, tropical, creamy, dry with some moderate acidity. Pineapple and mango fruit, drizzled with lime, and lots of floral perfume freshness. Not super complex but it does what it does very well. 90% Malvasia and 10% Chardonnay. (86 points)

2015 Contrade Negroamaro - Italy, Puglia, Puglia IGT

SRP: $10

Rich purple color. Dark and saucy aromas with juicy but spicy black fruit, some charcoal and smoke, grilled herb and sweet vanilla notes. Medium-bodied, smooth tannins but they provide some structure, moderate-low acidity. This is a chewy, fun wine with rich blackberry and black cherry fruit, backed up by some smoky herbs, roasted chestnut and vanilla. Good introduction to this grape, this seems made for a wide audience. (86 points)

2014 Bodegas San Valero Particular - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena

SRP: $15

Deep ruby color. Dark cherries and tart blackberries with lots of spicy and earthy complexity (pepper, olive, soy, violets). Medium+ bodied with suave appeal and dusty tannins, medium acidity. Tart black cherries and roasted plum fruit mixes well with notes of smoke, teriyaki, pepper, violets. Lots of fun but also impressive depth. 100% Cariñena. (88 points)

2013 Grandes Vinos y Viñedos Corona de Aragon Special Selection - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena

SRP: $14

Rich, deep ruby color. Aromas of tar red and black cherries and plums, incense sticks, tobacco and some clay earth. Medium-bodied with light but slightly bitter tannins and moderate acidity. Tart red and black plums meet bell pepper, cracked black pepper and soy sauce. A hint of sharpness but still rather pleasant, although not too complex. A blend of Cariñena and Garnacha. (85 points)

2014 3C Cariñena Premium Selection - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena

SRP: $10

Light purple color. Spicy black cherries and raspberries on the nose with roasted herbs, pepper, some sweet roses and coffee notes. Bold and juicy on the palate but nice freshness and moderate tannins. Crunchy plums and tart black cherry with loads of pepper, clove and cinnamon and some sweet herbal tones. Delicious texture, structured but fresh and easy to sip. 100% Cariñena. (88 points)

2015 Bodegas Paniza Cariñena - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena

SRP: $10

Light purple color. Strawberry and raspberries, darker roasted plum notes, including spicy herbs, sweet and savory notes. Juicy and fresh on the palate with light tannins, but enough for some structure, moderate acidity. Tart raspberry and black cherries mixes with some raspberry cheesecake topping, notes of black pepper, roasted herbs, spiced coffee. Fresh and easy drinking, this is a great cookout wine that should please many palates. 100% Cariñena. (87 points)

2016 Arinzano Hacienda de Arinzan Rosé - Spain, Navarra, Arinzano

SRP: $20

A deep watermelon color. Bright aromatic display of white flowers and dandelion but some darker cherry and strawberry jam richness as well, hints of pepper and tobacco. On the palate, this is richly-textured (14% alcohol), but some vibrant acidity keeps it balanced. Flavors of watermelon, ripe strawberry, red apple peel, laced with white pepper, tobacco, flower stems and green herbs. Bold but vibrant, complex and so, so delicious. 100% Tempranillo. (90 points)

2014 Arinzano Hacienda de Arinzano White - Spain, Navarra, Arinzano

SRP: $20

100% Chardonnay. Medium yellow color. Bright and vibrant aromas but also a lot of richness, with lemon curd, juicy apples, tart pears, integrated almond and cedar notes with sea spray and chalk. Plush texture but vibrant acidity on the palate, richer baked pear notes blend so well with lemon curd and tart green apple. Notes of floral perfume, minerals, chalk, also some nougat and honey. Complex, elegant, delicious, this is so good, but will get better. 40% maloactic fermentation, some new and old French oak. (90 points)

2012 Arinzano Hacienda de Arinzano Tinto - Spain, Navarra, Arinzano

SRP: $20

Rich purple color. Gorgeous nose of currants and red plums along with incense, charcoal, rose petal, lots of clay, tilled soil and tobacco barn notes – fascinating to sniff. Grippy tannic structure but such fresh acidity, it’s all pure and balanced. Raspberry mixes with red and black currant and the fruit is layered with pipe tobacco, eucalyptus, pepper, lots of earthy/spice and pine resin. Complexity is wonderful but it’s also so vibrant and easy to drink. Delicious now, but this could improve for more than a few years. A stunner at the price. (92 points)

2008 Arinzano Arinzano La Casona - Spain, Navarra, Arinzano

SRP: $40

Dark ruby color. Gorgeous aromatic display: humidor, mint, sage, rich earth, on top of bold but tangy currants and cherries. On the palate this is full and structured with solid grip from the tannins and pretty, vibrant acidity. Black cherry and red currant fruit, lively and refreshing fruit, and complex non-fruit elements: cigar smoke, charcoal, forest floor, tobacco, cedar, graphite. A blend of 75% Tempranillo and 25% Merlot, aged 14 months in 40% new French oak and then seven years in bottle. This has 5-8 years ahead of it easily, but gorgeous now, especially with lots of air. (92 points)

<85 points

N.V. Le Grande Courtâge Grande Cuvee Blanc de Blancs Brut - France

SRP: $18

Pale straw color. Smells of under-ripe green grapes, some chalk dust, bitter lemon and grapefruit pith. Tart and zesty on the palate with some white cherry, sour green apple and a cut floral stem note. Quite sharp, a bit too much bitter lemon and austerity for my palate. A blend of Chardonnay, Ugni Blanc, Colombard and Chenin Blanc. 

N.V. Le Grand Courtage Grande Cuvee Brut Rose - France

SRP: $18

Pale salmon color. Aromas of rose bush, sour cherries and under-ripe strawberries. Tart and brisk on the palate with foamy bubbles. Sour white cherries, under-ripe strawberries, the fruit mixes with notes of nettle and bell pepper. Unbalanced and quite weird. A blend of Chardonnay, Ugni Blanc and Gamay. 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.