Showing posts with label Mendocino. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mendocino. Show all posts

Monday, September 18, 2023

California gems to welcome Autumn

Mid-September sunrise on the Potomac
I’m a big fan of the astronomical calendar for the seasons, and I love celebrating the Autumnal Equinox. So, at least in that sense, we’re still in Summer. It’s still been quite warm here in the Mid-Atlantic, and the hurricanes keep cranking, but the humidity is dropping and the cooler mornings are starting to arrive. I hope everyone is staying safe and enjoying September so far .

There’s plenty of delightful weather on the way, and I have some fresh, California wines that will keep things cool all Autumn long. Delicious Chardonnay abounds here, including one from one of my favorites (Smith-Madrone), a stunner from Three Sticks, and some relatively new-to-me wines (Ettore and Waypoint), and throw in a classic value from Ferrari-Carano.

But there are some awesome reds in here as well, from crisp a crisp and airy Waypoint Pinot, to another winner of a Zin from Frank Family. Lastly, I have the Lithology Cab from the Alejandro Bulgheroni Estate, which is a real treat if you’re looking to bury some shockingly-good Napa Cab in the cellar and enjoy the 2019 vintage. Check this one out.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Emmolo Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $22
Light yellow, slight green color. The aromas pop with gooseberry, lime, kiwi, green melon, along with wild mint, fresh oregano, sliced chives, and some floral perfume and honeysuckle. The palate is ripe and peachy and generous in texture, but shows racy acidity and a focused sense of clarity. White peach, limes, guava, the fruit is laced with cool tones of herbal tea, white pepper, celery seed, sliced green bell pepper. Those elements are nuanced and woven in really well with honey and minerals, lots of flowers. Summery for sure but year-round goodness in here. A steal and a complex value at the price point. (90 points)

2022 Conundrum Wines White Table Wine - USA, California
SRP: $16
Medium yellow color. Smells peach-keen with daisies, dandelion, hay, orange blossom (floral city!), along with notes of honey, circus peanuts, and some herbal hints. The palate has a rich and creamy texture but surprising acidity, with flavors of yellow plums, pineapple, lime zest, peach nectar, a tropical mélange of all sorts of goodness. White and yellow flowers mix with tones of chalk, celery seed, mint. Very pleasant with a tropical, breezy vibe that will keep summer going all fall. I’ve long been a fan of this perennially-changing, fun, ripe, experimental wine, and it’s nice to know this style is still going. Screaming value, crowd-pleasing, what’s not to love? Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Viognier. (89 points)

2021 Ferrari Carano Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. Yummy aromas of yellow apples, juicy pineapple, some lemon curd, with nuances of buttered biscuits, honey, tropical blossoms, with some hay and almond skin. The palate sports a delightful creaminess and moderate acidity, with a fun feel and pleasant balance. Yellow apples, kiwi, and lemon curd fruit, a fresh and juicy appeal, with notes of almond, bruised apple, nougat, along with some salty, floral complexities. Classic stuff, crowd-pleasing for sure, but balanced and delicious. Aged in stainless steel and 30% French oak. (89 points)

2019 Ettore Winery Chardonnay Zero - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
SRP: $32
Rich yellow color. Intense aromatic display, with bruised apples, white peach, orange marmalade, and apricot, along with saline, hazelnut, and a waxy, spicy, almost Jura-esque vibe, and it smells awesome. Rich and waxy texture yet vibrant acidity keeps this alive and kicking, with flavors of apricots, lemon marmalade, dried pineapple, and orange peel. There’s a lot of cool nutty, deep, honeyed tones, but the wine stays so fresh and tingly, with complex floral, saline, chalk dust, and herbal vibes. Perhaps a bit on the adventurous side, but it pulls it off so well and is delicious as it is interesting. (92 points)

2019 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $45
Rich yellow color. The lemon curd, orange peel, and yellow pear aromas are delightful, with notes of yellow and white flowers, inviting tones of biscuit dough, sea salt, crushed stones – love it. The palate is racy and spritely with a delightful texture and harmonious fruit (lemons, yellow pears, white peach). Nuances of white tea, honey, sea salt, slight nougat and graham cracker. Racy and precise, deep and age-worth, this has it all. Disclaimer, I’m a huge fan of this wine in general, but even if it was not my personal style, I don’t think you can argue that this is one helluva well-made Chardonnay. And the 2019 is singing, and will continue to do so in the cellar. Absurd value, easy buy. (95 points)

2021 Three Sticks Chardonnay One Sky - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
SRP: $70
Rich yellow color. The nose shows yellow pears, lemon curd, orange peel, along with a lot of yellow flowers, honey, chalk and limestone dust, along with nuances of almond, peanut skin, white tea, shaved ginger. The palate sports a bold texture with lip-smacking acidity, and flavors of yellow apples, lemon bars, along with crunchy green apples. The palate is gorgeous, with beautiful texture and focused acidity. The complexities are really impressive: smashed rocks, chalk dust, ocean spray, limestone, nuanced of saltine cracker and hay. The mouthfeel, flavors, balance, and finish are gnarly. A shockingly awesome Chardonnay that will age for a very long time. For the price? C’mon, this is nuts. (94 points)

2020 Waypoint Chardonnay Heintz Vineyard - USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $60
Juicy, deep yellow color. The aromas show a delightful mix of rich and vibrant, with lemon curd, orange peel, with white peach, almond biscuits, cinnamon crumb cake, flinty minerals, chalk dust, white flowers. The palate shows such creamy, lovely texture, balanced with pristine acidity and a clear mineral focus. Flavors of golden apples and lemon curd, mixed with all sorts of honey, graham cracker, almonds, hay. There’s also a lot of sea salt, crushed stones, minerals, all sorts of good stuff packed in here. The nuance and lip-smacking vibrancy of this wine, and the balance with the richness, really fires. Aged 18 months in 43% new French oak. (94 points)

2021 Waypoint Pinot Noir Terra de Promissio Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $60
Vibrant ruby color. So fresh and lively, with fresh raspberries, strawberries, sliced rhubarb, with notes of white pepper, clay, creosote, mint, dried rose petals, very cool! The palate is crisp and airy with a fresh appeal and nervy aesthetic despite the fine-grained tannins and solid structure. The juiciest and tangiest strawberries, red currants, and cranberry relish, mix so well with tones of oregano, mint, dried rose petals, all sorts of savory spices and nuances. Despite the depth, age-worthiness, and complexity, it maintains a cool, airy, vibrant appeal. Beautiful Sonoma Pinot. (94 points)

2021 Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Rich purple color. Roasted figs, blackberry jam, tangy blueberries, with notes of smoky earth, sage, incense sticks, charcoal, anise – a lot of cool things. The palate sports exceptional balance with suave tannins, a rich feel, but a bright acidity. The fruit is tangy and deep, like farm fresh blueberry and blackberry jam, with crunchy currants, and that is woven together with threads of violet petals, black pepper, oregano, all sorts of earthy, stony, and mineral vibes. This is a perennially excellent Zinfandel, but this vintage in particular has such vibrancy and staying power. Bring on cooler nights and this wine. (93 points)

2019 Lithology Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $150
Such a deep but inviting purple color. The nose shows a dark core of black currant, blackberry, fig paste, and these classic Napa Cab nuances you love to sniff: dusty earth, pencil shavings, tobacco, some eucalyptus and violet tones. On the palate, you really start to grasp the depth and intricacy of this wine, with grippy but refined tannins and fresh acidity, setting an open stage for the tangy black currant and dark plum fruit. The non-fruit nuances show so much, with graphite, charcoal, and minerals on one hand, and coffee grounds, dark chocolate, sweet pipe tobacco, and clove on the other. The concentration and depth are a delight. Yes, it is very enjoyable to sip this wine this young, but this should be buried for five to ten at least. I love the 2019 vintage, and this expression is exquisite. Cab with Petit Verdot, Cab Franc, aged 22 months in French oak. (95 points)




Tuesday, July 24, 2018

Wine Reviews: Summer Sippers to Beat the Heat

It’s the middle of summer, so this week I’m highlighting a range of white and rosés, and an amber (or orange) wine to keep things cool.

The pink wave of American obsession with rosé is still going strong, and it seems each year I see more rosé wine than the last year. Especially during summertime, we love to drink pink wine. I’ve received a handful of rosé wines since I covered my first batch a few months ago, and found quite a few goodies.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

White Wines

2017 Trefethen Riesling DryUSA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll
SRP: $26
Very pale straw color. Aromas burst out of the glass with lemons, limes, chalk dust, cut flower stems, baby’s breath. Crisp and so zesty, dry and bracing but plenty of vibrant fruit (lime, peach, guava). Complex elements of chalk dust, limestone, mountain stream, honeysuckle. Add in some cucumber slices and a hint of tennis ball, with lots of minerals on the finish. A lovely dry California Riesling that I’d love to re-taste in four or five years. Sourced from Main Ranch Vineyard. (91 points)

2017 Chateau Montelena Riesling - USA, California, North Coast, Potter Valley
SRP: $27
Pale lemon color. A rich and plump aromatic display (orange, white peach, pineapple) along with yellow flowers, honeycomb, white tea, a stony-minty element as well. Plump and juicy fruit, this is richer and more tropical than I remember previous vintages, but it’s tropical and delicious (white peaches, cantaloupe, pineapple) with some drizzled lime on there. White flowers, chalky, spritely and fresh with some mineral and nettle notes and a honeyed finish. So surprised, year after year, at this wine. (91 points)


2017 Gamble Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Gamble VineyardUSA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. The nose boasts bright white and yellow flowers, with green apples and yellow pears, a hint of sea salt. Creamy texture on the palate, this is fresh and crisp with a tangy, salty hint. Green apples and pears, lemon curd, the fruit mixes with honeysuckle, chalk dust, mineral and a hint of lemon verbena. Bright but textured, almost velvety, loving the depth and freshness combo here. Fermented mostly in old French oak, with a bit of new, and some stainless steel. (90 points)

2017 Sanctuary Vineyards Albariño PearlUSA, North Carolina, Outer Banks
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Aromas of guava, peach, honey and floral tones, with sea salt notes. Rich and peachy with apricots and lemon, this is plumper, richer style but well done, interesting interpretation of this grape. Waxy, honeyed notes to the apricot and peach, but there’s still plenty of flowers and sea salt. Nice effort from North Carolina! (85 points)

Amber and Rosé

2017 Troon Vineyard Riesling Whole Grape FermentUSA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $20
Pale gold/amber color. Nose bursts with yellow flowers, honey, candle wax, almond, sea salt, topped on top of bright limes and apricot. Bright and crisp on the palate but the textural richness is awesome, and there are these chalky, dusty elements that I love. Flavors of limes and candied orange peel, mixed with almond, ginger, dried honey, wax. Complex, elegant, deliciousness. 11.6% alcohol, almost bone dry, this is an exciting and delicious orange wine. (92 points)

N.V. Amelia Crémant de Bordeaux Rosé Brut - France, Bordeaux, Crémant de Bordeaux
SRP: $20
Pale copper color. Subtle aromas of white flowers, tangy strawberries and white cherries. Crisp and bright on the palate with high acid and a light, tangy appeal. White cherries, red apple peel flavors. Steely and light, budget and picnic-friendly. Made from Merlot and Cabernet Franc. (85 points)

2017 Tasca D'Almerita Sicilia Le Rose di Regaleali - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $15
Deep copper color. Nose of nectarines, peaches, apricots, lots of blossoms and spiced white tea, a sea salt note. Punchy and juicy but tangy on the palate with crisp, salty, oceanic influences throughout. Juicy nectarines, blood orange, yellow plums, along with notes of roses and spiced tea. This is delicious rose of Nerello Mascalese, and a total steal at this price. (89 points)

2017 Copain Pinot Noir Tous Ensemble Rosé - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $25
Deep copper color. Aromas of roses, lilies, sweet melon, nectarine, with hints of sea spray and chalk dust. Crisp and lip-smacking acidity, so lively, with a nice streak of mineral, chalk and saline throughout. Tart red apple with juicy white peaches and cantaloupe. Tangy, spicy, with floral complexity that lingers on the finish. Delightful Pinot Noir rose. (89 points)

2017 Cambria Pinot Noir Rosé Julia's Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $18
Bright pink color. Nose boasts peaches, spicy wild strawberries, watermelon and some white pepper. Plump, richly-textured, and juicy on the palate with medium acidity. Lots of watermelon, strawberry and red apple fruit. Fruit-forward style with notes of roses, cherry blossoms. All Pinot Noir. (87 points)

2017 Sidebar Cellars Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $21
Deep copper/light raspberry color. Ripe peaches, juicy strawberries, some spiced cranberry relish, along with white flowers and white pepper note. Bold texture with plenty of fruit (white peaches, mango, strawberry) yet bright acidity. The fruit is so juicy and pretty but I love these white pepper and rhubarb elements as well. Delicious stuff. 100% Syrah. (89 points)

2017 WillaKenzie Estate Rosé - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
SRP: $21
Pale copper color. Super floral on the nose with cut stems, orange blossoms, lilies, nettle, along with peaches galore. Precise acidity from start to finish, dry and tangy, minerality throughout. White cherries, juicy peaches and nectarine topped in rose hips and orange blossoms. Floral, fresh, lovely balance and depth, this is very pretty stuff. Pinot Noir with 3% Pinot Meunier and 2% Pinot Blanc. (90 points)

2017 Veritas Vineyard Rosé - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $20
Medium watermelon color. Aromas of strawberries and white cherries, rose hips and roses, orange blossoms, honeysuckle. Medium-bodied on the palate with a plush and fruity appeal, raspberries and orange blossoms, honeysuckle. Floral and fruity, spicy and herbal, so fresh and lively but it sports significant depth. Lovely Virginia pink from Veritas. (88 points)

<85 points

2017 Concha y Toro Shiraz Rosé Casillero del Diablo - Chile
SRP: $8
Pale copper color. Aromas of strawberries and white cherries, along with roses, nettle, lemon meringue, crushed sweet tart candies. Light and bright with high acid, tart lemon and watermelon rind fruit. Notes of rose hips, rhubarb, sliced cucumber. Light and simple, a blend of Syrah, Cinsault and Carmenere.

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Saturday, May 26, 2018

Wine Reviews: California White Wines for Summertime

Well, I never go too long without another batch of new releases from California. I’ve been receiving all sorts of different California wines lately, and the white wines especially are piling up. It’s been hot and humid here on the East Coast, and a lot of fresh 2017s are headed out to consumers, so I’m stoked to offer up some new releases that will get you through the heat.

Sure, there are plenty of uninspiring California Sauvignon Blancs, but I didn’t find any here — just some serious wines and distinct styles. Paso Robles offers up a few strikingly crisp white wines, and it continues a long run of exciting white wines I’ve tasted from Paso over the past year or so. A killer Kerner from Lodi (California’s only varietal Kerner) makes a serious impression, as does the new vintage of one of my favorite California Rieslings, Smith-Madrone’s Spring Mountain. Lastly, a few Chardonnays round out this report.


Maybe I got lucky with these samples (which I tasted sighted), but I couldn’t find a mediocre wine in the lot. 


2017 Lucas & Lewellen Sauvignon Blanc - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $18
Medium lemon color. Aromas burst with white peach, lime and grapefruit, along with yellow flower petals and cut floral stems. Crisp and zesty on the palate but moderately creamy texture. Bright lemon, grapefruit and white peach fruit, mixed with dandelion, white pepper and lemongrass. Crisp and clean and Spring-y. Includes 10% Viognier. (87 points) 


2016 Chalk Hill Sauvignon Blanc - California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $33
Light yellow color. Nose boasts peaches, green and yellow apples, with honeysuckle, lilies, crushed limestone and river rocks. Zesty on the palate with medium/full body and plush texture as well, with clean, crisp, mineral elements. Sea salt, chives, lemon grass, along with some chalk dust and white flowers. Pure, vibrant, pleasant Sauv Blanc. (89 points) 


2017 Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $25
A wonderful follow-up to the exceptional 2016 vintage, this light gold-colored wine bursts with aromas of papaya, lime, apricot, sea salt, lemon verbena. A creamy rich texture (14.6% alcohol), yet the acidity keeps it lip-smacking. Pineapple, juicy white peach, drizzled with limes. Notes of dried honey, white pepper, mint, with elements of minerals and raw almond. Pretty, complex, balanced Napa Sauvignon Blanc that delivers for the price. Includes a bit of Sémillon and Sauvignon Vert. (90 points)


2017 Rombauer Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $24
Lively yellow color. Aromas of limes, grapefruit, white peach, on top of mint and honeysuckle. Plush and juicy texture, zesty acid throughout, flavors of peaches, grapefruit and lime. Notes of cucumber slices, white pepper, lilies, mix with deeper notes of whipped honey. Balanced, easy-going, summer-friendly wine, but it sports seriously complexity as well, and offers a lot for the price. (89 points) 


2016 Robert Mondavi Winery Fumé Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $22
Light yellow color. Smells bright and lively with lemon and sea salt and white pepper, but also notes of pineapple and honey. Full-bodied and creamy texture to the palate, but the acidity is bright and crisp. Yellow apples, quince, lemon curd, the fruit is mixed with white pepper, oregano, salted almond, honey and seashells. Rich but nuanced, this is always a reliably good Napa Sauv Blanc, but 2016 is something special. Includes Semillon, this wine is all barrel fermented and aged six months in French oak. (89 points) 


2017 FEL Pinot Gris - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Bursts with aromas of pineapples, peaches, limes, white flowers and honey. Rich textural depth but crisp throughout. Nectarine, peaches, green melon rind, limes, topped with salted almond, floral perfume, cut flower stems, sliced cucumber. Fresh, lovely, seems like a perfect sushi wine to me. (88 points)  


2017 J. Dusi Pinot Grigio - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $24
Pale straw color. Aromas of peaches, limes, nectarines, with honeysuckle and clover. Tart acid on a medium-bodied frame, this PG has a steely and salty appeal with tart green apples
and nectarine. Floral-spice notes, chalkboard, sea salt, this is so fresh (begs for oysters) but shows some impressive depth, too. This wine is not what you might be thinking – give it a shot. (88 points)

2015 Smith-Madrone Riesling - California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $32
Light yellow. Aromas of which peaches, salted limes, chalk dust, white tea and fresh tennis balls. On the palate this is juicy and zesty with live-wire acidity that kicks off the wine and finishes it. Gorgeous peaches, nectarines and limes, with complex minerals, ocean rocks, mountain streams. Lip-smacking stuff that leaves the palate salivating. Another great vintage of this Riesling, and t will surely age quite nicely for at least a decade. (91 points)

2015 Robert Mondavi Winery Chardonnay - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $24
Medium yellow color. Aromas of green and yellow pears, with white flowers and chalk contrasting against honey, nougat and cinnamon notes. Juicy palate with plump texture but refreshing acidity. Crisp green apple with richer bruised pear and glazed apricot. Notes of toasted almond, honey and cinnamon mix well with bright flowers. Classic Napa chard for the price, and the 2015 is lovely. Mostly barrel fermented in French oak (16% new) and aged nine months on the lees. (90 points)


2016 Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Jackson Estate - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $32
Rich yellow color. Aromas of almonds, honey, bruised apple, along with sea breeze and white flowers. Rich texture and it’s creamy and bold but also fresh acidity. Bruised apple, lemon curd, yellow pears, along with flavors of almond cake, cinnamon. Underlying notes of minerals, sea salt and ocean breeze. Lovely, rich, nuanced. Aged 10 months in 40% new French oak. (89 points)


2016 Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Jackson Estate Camelot Highlands - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $38
Bright gold color. Bright aromas of sea salt, almond, lots of ocean breeze, along with rich elements of toasted biscuits and toffee. Brisk acidity on the palate aligns with a rich texture, all balanced nicely. Lemon curd, bruised apple, pineapple upside down cake, along with toffee, almond, toasted biscuits, but there’s also a streak of chalk and seashells. Rich but lively, too, there is a lot going on here! Fermented and aged in 41% new French oak. (90 points) 


2016 Sidebar Cellars Kerner - California, Central Valley, Lodi Mokelumne River
SRP: $25
Bright yellow color. Peaches and dried mango, honey, some olive oil and spicy herbal elements as well. On the palate, the acidity is pristine, and it’s balanced wonderfully with a rich texture – but, wow that acidity carries this wine from start to finish. Lemon, white peach, yellow plums, mixed with dried white flowers, wild clover, honeysuckle, and a salty-mineral element that is delicious. Very impressive stuff. (91 points) 


2016 Steele Wines Writer's Block Roussanne - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $18
Light gold color. Bright aromas of apricot, nectarine, lime, a brighter aromatic approach than I usually get from this grape, but also some nougat, honeyed tea, chalk dust elements. Rich texture on the palate, this is a creamy but zesty and crisp wine. Apricots, green apples and pears, nectarine, topped in raw almond, honey, chalk dust and white tea. Delicious but also complex and a steal at this price. The freshness of this wine is crazy when compared with so many honeyed, oily California Roussannes (many of which I love), but this is a very crisp example. Sourced exclusively from Las Lomas vineyard, which sits in sandy soils at 1,500+ feet elevation. The wine is aged nine months in oak, 20% new. (90 points)


2017 Opolo Roussanne - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $18
Bright lemon color. Surprising bright aromas of chalk, ocean breeze, lemons, with some richer pineapple and cantaloupe notes. Pleasantly medium-bodied (13.5% alcohol) with moderating acidity, this isn’t your typical fat Roussanne. Lots of pineapple, apricot, white peach, drizzled with lime, with notes of tropical flowers and honeyed tea. Rich in flavors but lively in style. (88 points)


2017 Pomar Junction Vineyard Sidetrack - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles, El Pomar District
SRP: $15
Straw colored. A burst of wildflowers and clover on the nose, along with papaya, lime, guava, and notes of crushed shells. Full-bodied (14.2%) with a waxy textural dynamic underlined by moderate acidity. Flavors of pineapple, papaya, drizzled with lime and complex notes of chalk dust, limestone sea rocks, lemon verbena, spiced tea. I was shocked to see the retail price; this is bold but complex and nuanced. A blend of Viognier, 35% Roussanne and 15% Grenache Blanc. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Thursday, September 28, 2017

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

This week is another hodgepodge of wines from around the world — mostly from California and New Zealand.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.


2014 Grgich Hills Chardonnay - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $43
Light gold color. Pretty aromatics of lemon curd, juicy white peaches, limes, green apples – rich and juicy fruit bit lots of crushed chalk, rocks, minerals, honey butter. Bold and juicy on the palate but vibrant, lip-smacking lovely balance. Tangy lime and lemon play off baked pear, guava, white honey, nougat, vanilla contrast with mountain stream and chalky, dusty minerals. Rich but zesty, with a long, crisp and lightly-toasted finish. A perennial performer when it comes to Napa Chards that I love, and this 2014 (like many other wines from Napa) is excellent. Aged 10 months in 40% new French oak. (92 points)

2014 Mount Veeder Winery Reserve - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $100
Bold purple color. On the nose: black currant, saucy plums, smoky charcoal, black pepper, violets and vanilla. The palate is full and supported by a deck of solid tannins, although some moderate acidity and juicy fruit help balance it all out. Black currant, tangy blackberries, roasted fig paste, the fruit melds with charcoal, vanilla, cedar shavings, cocoa powder, and dark roast coffee grounds. Complex, long, mineral and earth finish – those mountain vineyard qualities really show through in this wine. Delicious but this will really improve over the next four to five years easily, and hold for quite some time. Cabernet with 7% Malbec and 4% Petit Verdot, aged 20 months in all new French oak. This is a reliably excellent wine, vintage in and out, but the 2014 is gorgeous. (93 points)

2014 Franciscan Estate Magnificat - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of violets, sage, lavender, cola and cedar on top of plums and tangy black currants. Bold and punchy, chewy tannins, but surprising freshness. Plush but tangy black currants and blackberries, laced with cedar, cocoa powder, charcoal and iron. Notes of cedar, star anise and cola woven in nicely, with a deep, earthy finish. Lovely but could use two-to-four years of cellaring. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon blended with Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, aged 20 months in 70% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Shafer TD-9 - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Deep purple color. Rich waves of blackberry and black cherry on the nose, fig paste, violets, vanilla, rocky notes and potting soil. The palate is velvety and suave, solid tannic structure but so, so smooth, with moderate acidity. Black cherry, cassis, wild blueberry, gorgeous fruit, laced with graphite, violet petals, pencil lead, clove, and backed up with vanilla bean and coffee. Long life ahead but surprisingly gorgeous right out of the bottle. A blend of 56% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Malbec. Aged 20 months in all new French oak. (93 points)

2015 Parducci 85 - California, North Coast, Mendocino
$45 (available only at winery)
Light purple color. Lovely, warm, inviting aromas of roasted figs and plums, currants, cola, dark chocolate and earthy/charcoal notes. Plush texture despite solid tannins, medium acidity. Gushing black cherry and blackberry mixed with cola, roasted chestnut, vanilla, dark chocolate shavings. I get a complex mix of clove, cinnamon and earthy, rocky notes. Lovely now but I’d like to age this at least a few years, but it’ll improve for many. 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc, aged in 30% new American oak. A special release honoring this iconic Mendocino winery’s 85th anniversary. (91 points)

2004 Parducci Petite Sirah True Grit - California, North Coast, Mendocino County
$50
Rich purple color. Love the smoky, savory aspects on the nose (grilled bell peppers, black pepper, mushroom, charred meat), on top of some black currant and blackberry compote flavors. Full and bold but has fleshed out with age, showing moderately-structured tannins with rounded edges and medium/low acidity. Black cherry and dark plum fruit is still holding on, but the fruit is doused in grilled meats, beef drippings and cracked black pepper, along with mushroom broth and fallen leaves. Gorgeous non-fruit complexity, but this wine isn’t done yet – it’s still put together well for at least five more years. Includes 3% co-fermented Viognier, aged in about 25% new French and American oak. (92 points)

2005 Parducci Petite Sirah True Grit - California, North Coast, Mendocino County
$50
Rich purple color. Concentrated aromas, but they open up to show more blackberry and black currant fruit, backed up by black pepper, grilled steak, anise and fennel. Full but suave, the tannins aren’t harsh but the grip is serious, medium-low acidity. Black currant and black cherry fruit is still there and delicious, but matched in intensity by a combination of pepper, leather, charcoal, beef brisket. Dry, structured finish with black olive and espresso. Time in the cellar ahead, but the fruit may fade before the tannins do. Still very impressive. Includes 8% Grenache, aged 18 months in old French and American oak. (90 points)

N.V. Locations Sauvignon Blanc NZ-6 - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $20
Medium straw color. Huge aromatic burst of ruby red grapefruit, guava, lime, along with sliced jalapenos and onion grass. Medium-bodied, bright and mouth-watering with lime, ruby red grapefruit and white peach flavors. Some honeysuckle mixes with sea salt, floral perfume, sliced bell peppers. More depth and dynamism that a lot of New Zealand Sauv Blancs in this price point. Impressive. The fruit comes from Wairau, Awatere and Waihopai valleys. (88 points)

2016 Discovery Point Sauvignon Blanc - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
Aromas of lemons, apricots, white flowers, sea salt, less of the spicy green Marlborough calling card (just a hint of white pepper), this is a brighter and oceanic aromatic profile, and I love it. On the palate, fresh acidity and juicy fruit (lemon, guava, green melon), along with white tea, honeysuckle, sea salt. Slight note of white pepper. A juicy, vibrant, oceanic, delicious Marlborough Sauv Blanc. (88 points)

2015 Discovery Point Pinot Noir - New Zealand, North Island, Wairarapa, Martinborough
The nose shows tart strawberries, raspberry jam, some rose hips, sage, mushroom, light roast coffee, an interesting display. Medium+ bodied, light-dusty tannins, moderate acidity. Black cherry and raspberry jam, along with cola, rose hips, sweet clove, caramelized mushrooms. Juicy, easy-drinking but also vibrant and quite complex. Good to drink now but this should do some interesting things over the next 1-2 years. (89 points)


2016 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Casillero del Diablo Reserva 
- Chile, Maipo Valley
SRP: $11
Bright ruby color. Aromas of smoky cherries and sweet plums, bell pepper, cola, sweet coffee, some cigar box. Light-medium bodied with soft tannins and medium acid. Tangy cherries and red plums mix with bell pepper and red peppers. Lean, a bit tart, but fun stuff for the price. (85 points)

Thursday, May 11, 2017

Showcasing Diverse Single Vineyards with California's Onward Wines



Faith Armstrong Foster. Credit: Onward Wines
Faith Armstrong Foster is a UC Davis-educated winemaker who earned her winemaking chops in Napa, but the vineyards that attract her rest well off the beaten path.

Her
Onward Wines brand, she explains, is about highlighting unique and fascinating sites in order to craft single-vineyard, single-variety wines. “The whole brand is about showcasing growers, and what they’re doing,” Faith said during a recent online chat and tasting.

It would perhaps be more accurate to describe these as “single-block” wines, as her contracts with growers relate to a specific part of each vineyard, meaning she deals with the same section of vines each vintage. “It’s about a particular part of a vineyard,” she said, which allows her to work with the grower on specific farming methods to suit the vines.

Her vineyard sources are diverse, spanning many appellations and microclimates. She makes several different Malvasias from a site called Capp-Inn Ranch in the Suisun Valley, located two valleys inland from Napa. East of Carneros, she described this site as similar in soil and climate to fruit she’s worked with in Carneros, and the result is a crisp, refreshing style of Malvasia with loads of floral and tropical fruit notes.

Faith also sources what is clearly some stellar Pinot Noir from a site called Hawkeye Ranch in Mendocino’s Redwood Valley appellation. The Redwood Valley is one of those Wild West kind of appellations, sparsely populated with vines, lacking big tasting rooms or tourist traps. I’ve traveled extensively in this area of Mendocino, and it absolutely gorgeous. Small, usually organically farmed, vineyards are nestled among untouched redwood groves, cold streams and the occasional pear orchard. She enjoys working with this site because, as she puts it, the lack of grapevine monoculture means the vineyard, “has a lot of capacity to maintain natural balance.” And she makes three different wines from this same site: a rosé, a still red and a rosé Petillant Naturel sparkling wine.

Lasty, I tasted her Casa Roja Carignan, a sandy soil site in Contra Costa County. These ancient vines, planted in the late 1800s, impart a deep sense of spicy minerality and exotic complexity. For the price, the wine is a stunning example of what this grape (an historic staple of California winegrowing) can do. Faith has several other wines in her portfolio that I haven’t tasted (but would love to) including a Cerise Vineyard Pinot Noir, a Redwood Valley Zinfandel, and a few others.

Overall, Faith’s wines take a minimalist approach, with quite low alcohol levels, brisk acidity, tart but tasty fruit, and a host of non-fruit elements that make the wines really pop. They are as delicious as they are fascinating.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.



2016 Onward Wines Malvasia Bianca Petillant Naturel Capp-Inn Ranch - California, North Coast, Suisun Valley
SRP: $24
Pale lemon color with lovely faint bubbles. Complex floral aromas (baby’s breath, orange blossom, honeysuckle) on top of guava, white peach and lime zest. Crisp, bright and nervy palate with a slight salty, chalky mouthfeel and a refreshing tingle from the bubbles. Brisk and bright with orange pith, lemon wedge and so many floral elements: dandelion, orange blossom, clean laundry, potpourri. Tons of fun. (89 points)


2016 Onward Wines Malvasia Bianca Capp-Inn Ranch - California, North Coast, Suisun Valley
SRP: $20
Pale lemon color. Bursts with aromas of guava, lychee, white grape jelly and lots of spicy floral elements. Medium-bodied with crisp acidity and flavors of juicy peaches and lychee with lime drizzled on top. So many floral elements: baby’s breath, dandelion, buttercups, honeysuckle. So, so floral, but it’s not one-dimensional. Crisp finish. (88 points)


2016 Onward Wines Pinot Noir Rosé Hawkeye Ranch - California, North Coast, Redwood Valley
SRP: $22
Pale copper color. Bright and fresh aromas of yellow and white flowers, cantaloupe, lime and wild strawberry. Zippy on the palate with a bright personality but some creamy, chalky textural elements. White flower potpourri, saline and white pepper top the tart strawberry fruit. Light but not simple, this has a bright mineral presence and long floral elements on the finish. (88 points)


2013 Onward Wines Pinot Noir Hawkeye Ranch - California, North Coast, Redwood Valley
SRP: $38
Vibrant ruby color. Aromas of crisp strawberries, raspberries, rose hips, with rhubarb and mushroom notes. On the palate this is crisp and lean at 12% but shows some dusty tannic backbone and crackling acidity. Juicy cherry and raspberry fruit mixes with rhubarb, sage, tar, gravelly earth. Brisk but enough depth, personality and complexity to pull it off, makes to entice the cellar for 2-5 years. Wow. (92 points)


2014 Onward Wines Carignan Casa Roja - California, San Francisco Bay, Contra Costa County
SRP: $30
Neon purple color. Gushing aromas of black cherries, red and black currant, tart blueberry, along with loamy soil, steak rub, coffee grounds. Full-bodied with some solid grip to the tannins but the acidity really helps a lot. Roasted plum, blueberry and black cherry fruit laced with tar, roasted chestnut, charcoal smoke. Complex, savory, spicy, really beautiful stuff with a long finish. This should do cool stuff over the next 3-4 years. (91 points)

Tuesday, November 29, 2016

Wine in the Wilderness - Exploring Humboldt's Lost Coast



No highways cut through here. Mountains drop precipitously into the Pacific Ocean. Everything is wet and the nights are long and cold. This mountainous coastal region of northern Mendocino and southern Humboldt Counties, called the Lost Coast, is the largest stretch of coastal wilderness in the lower 48 states.

I came here for the waves, the stoke, the mountains, the serene darkness of the forest. And, yes, the wine. They make damn good wine out here.

I visited Andrew Morris, the winemaker and proprietor of Briceland Vineyards, on a rare warm and sunny morning in November. The sun poked through after a terrible downpour that lasted all night (a local told me it rained four inches). My friend and I were forced to bail, soaked and frozen, from our flooded tent and sleep in our car. In the morning, we checked the surf, but the tide was dead high, making it impossible to reach our spot. So we grabbed some coffee and drove over the mountains to see Andrew. The drive east on Shelter Cove Road could be described using any or all of the following words: gorgeous, sketchy, stunning — holy shit, bro, you’re way too close to the edge! — mindboggling, etc.

When rainstorms come early, they can be a big threat to the grape harvest, but the grapes had been harvested more than a month ago. My brother, travelling buddies and I visited the Lost Coast in full-swing rainy season. But we lucked out, and only got one soaking wet night out of five. Even when it’s not actively raining, the Lost Coast is a wet place. The air tasted of mountain stream and I could watch individual droplets drift in the thick fog. Cold mountain streams cut through forests, waterfalls pour down rocks cliffs into the sea, dense fog packs narrow valleys, rich moss and ferns pad the ground while massive redwoods block out the sun. After a soaking wet October, mushrooms flourished in the woods. My brother is a mushroom foraging guru, so I just followed his lead and cooked the mushrooms he said were both safe and tasty. 

Hand-foraged mushrooms sautéed over a campfire, paired with Humboldt Pinot is an epic palate experience.

This is an extreme place in every way, and that’s why we came. The weather swings can be extreme. Ditto for the waves, which ranged in size from pumping 10 feet to death-defying 30 feet. My brother and I, lifelong surfing buds, caught some incredible waves, but also spent too much time underwater, getting worked by the cold, chunky surf and currents. Here, the surf is sketchier, the waters sharkier, the roads hairier, and the marijuana smells much, much better. In this environment (like all of the challenging regions home to great wine), growing wine grapes needs to be done with extreme care.

A “good vintage” in Humboldt, Andrew said, would start without a late spring frost, which can damage grapes during critical growing stages. A good vintage would have plenty of ripening days — a certain amount of days with proper sunlight, providing what is needed to fully ripen grapes. And while Humboldt gets fewer ripening days than California regions further south and inland, it’s still ahead of Burgundy. I hear they make some decent Pinot there. A good vintage would also end without an early appearance of autumn’s cold and rain. And, preferably, a good vintage would be free from forest fires, which break out during the dry season and threaten these small, rugged vineyards with smoke taint. Despite these pitfalls, when a finished Pinot Noir or Zinfandel from Humboldt makes it through, the result can be phenomenal.

Take Andrew’s Pinot Noirs, sourced from several single vineyards in southern Humboldt County. These wines are lower in alcohol (usually in the low 13% range) and packed with lip-smacking acidity. They’re incredibly fresh and food-friendly and lack any brazen new oak influences or baked, extracted flavors. The tannins are present and provide structure (combined with the acidity, this makes for great aging potential), but they’re very accessible in their youth. No dark roast coffee or caramel-cola stuff going on here. These are anti-Kosta-Brownes, and I’m stoked they exist.

Andrew studied winemaking at the UC Davis extension and apprenticed with his father-in-law, Joe Collins, Briceland’s founder and winemaker. Gradually, Andrew took the reins. With consummate attention to detail and high technical knowledge, Andrew wanted to keep the reputation of Briceland’s wines going strong.

Andrew and his wife Rosie of Briceland Vineyards.
In the 1970s, Joe Collins began experimental plantings in Humboldt, which was considered by many in the growing California wine industry to be too cold and wet to grow proper wine grapes. But small growers scoped out the right spots, the right grape varieties, and they made it happen. Briceland quickly developed several sources of high quality fruit, most of which are small parcels carved into the forest on steep slopes. By 1985, Joe Collins and Maggie Carey launched Briceland Vineyards.

Like most commercial outfits in Humboldt, this is a boutique operation. Andrew releases only 1,500 cases of wine per year, and about 75% of that never leaves the area. Briceland sells a lot of its wines in restaurants (of which there are few) and local shops. (If you’re headed to Shelter Cove, the General Store has an awesome selection of Briceland’s wines and a bunch of local brews — highly recommended). About 75% of Briceland wines come from Humboldt, while Andrew also works with some really good Mendocino fruit.

I’ve been a huge fan of Mendocino wines for years (and a big fan of the few Humboldt wines I’d tasted), so it was fascinating to taste Andrew’s Syrahs and Zinfandels back to back, one of each from Humboldt and Mendocino. The Mendocino stuff has a bit more richness and darker, sunshiny fruit, while the elegance and tart freshness of the Humboldt fruit really shines through.

There are two ways to get your hands on these wines. You could travel to the area, which will be epic, I guarantee it. Or maybe you could contact Briceland directly. But if you love the adventure of wine, and you’re open to this style, you’ll be thrilled. These wines range in price from about $21 for the white wines to $35 for some of the single-vineyard Pinots — all absurdly reasonable for the high quality of the juice.

Below are my notes on the wines I tasted with Andrew.

2015 Briceland Vineyards Gewürztraminer Ishi Pishi Ranch - California, North Coast, Humboldt County
An exciting, zesty, bone-dry version with tropical fruit and floral spice on the nose. Crisp acidity, medium-bodied with a slightly creamy mouthfeel and flavors of peaches, guava and honey to mix with minerals and white pepper. Delicious, lip-smacking, endless food pairing options. (89 points)

2015 Briceland Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Humboldt County - California, North Coast, Humboldt County
A vibrant and zesty Sauvignon Blanc with white pepper, lemon and peach aromas. Crisp and very bright with complex elements of salty spice to accent the lemon and green melon fruit. (88 points)

2014 Briceland Vineyards Arneis Spirit Canyon Vineyard - California, North Coast, Mendocino County
Smells of peaches, white flowers, lemon oil and a hint of pepper. So bright and clean on the palate with a salty appeal on top of lemon, orange peel and kiwi fruit. Delicious, nervy and intriguing. Not much Arneis in California, but Mendocino is home to some very good stuff. (90 points)

2014 Briceland Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, North Coast, Humboldt County
Very pretty aromas of tart and spicy cherries, mint and earth. Bright acidity and moderately structured tannins, the cherries are crunchy and delicious and laced with notes of sweet flowers, strawberry greens, clove and an underlying mineral freshness. An eye-opening wine. (90 points)

2013 Briceland Vineyards Pinot Noir Ronda's Vineyard - California, North Coast, Humboldt County
Aromas of gushing cherries and raspberries, lots of rose petal and eucalyptus, too. Lush palate with soft tannins and bright, crisp acidity. Waves of tar black cherries and strawberries, the fruit is laced with notes of spicy clove, wet leaves and mossy earth. Complex, vibrant, straight-up delicious. A uniquely Humboldt Pinot that hails from a 1,600 foot, South-facing slope planted in 1983. (92 points)

2013 Briceland Vineyards Pinot Noir Phelps Vineyard - California, North Coast, Humboldt County
Aromas of juicier, darker cherries with some raspberries and fresh herbal notes. Juicy and fleshy but structured tannins and crisp acidity. Flavors of cola, rhubarb and raspberry leaf tea accent the cherry and strawberry fruit. Lovely spicy complexity. (91 points)

2013 Briceland Vineyards Pinot Noir Alderpoint Vineyard - California, North Coast, Humboldt County
These Pinots keep on firing. This one shows more smoky earth, violets, savory spices on top of juicy cherries. Smooth, fresh and juicy with complex spice, leather and earth accents on top of tart strawberries and cherries, hints of cola and eucalyptus. (92 points)

2014 Briceland Vineyards Pinot Noir Alderpoint Vineyard - California, North Coast, Humboldt County
Sweeter cherry fruit than the 2013, with that same spicy/savory quality and smoky earth. Silky, smooth but tart acidity, the tart red fruit is complex and so bright. Notes of earth, clove, savory mushrooms. Wow, such a pretty wine. It opened up a lot (as friends and I drank the rest of the bottle with dinner). Huge hit. (92 points)

2014 Briceland Vineyards Zinfandel Ishi Pishi Ranch - California, North Coast, Humboldt CountyLove the aromas of tart red fruit and spice. Silky, fresh and spicy with rose petals, earth and spice. Wow. If tasted blind, I could see mistaking this for a Pinot but, when sipped after Briceland Pinots, this shows more sweet flowers and earth. Lovely stuff. (91 points)

2014 Briceland Vineyards Zinfandel Dark Horse Vineyard - California, North Coast, Mendocino County
This vineyard shows aromas of darker cherries and clove. The fruit is (relatively) darker than the Ishi Pishi, showing more black cherry and blackberry, but still so fresh with medium/light tannins. I get notes of clove, tobacco and cola. A vibrant Zinfandel, very interesting to taste back-to-back with the Ishi Pishi Ranch. (90 points)

2014 Briceland Vineyards Syrah Ishi Pishi Ranch - California, North Coast, Humboldt County
Gorgeous aromas of red and black currants topped in black pepper, roasted red pepper and charred herbs. Juicy and so darn fresh on the palate with moderate/light tannic structure. Red cherries, a touch of black cherry, topped in scorched earth, violets, black pepper, beef broth and cured meat. Delicious flavors, this is an intriguing and complex Syrah. (91 points)

2014 Briceland Vineyards Syrah Dark Horse Vineyard - California, North Coast, Mendocino County
Smells like juicy black cherries, leather and spicy pepper. Chewier texture than the Ishi Pishi Ranch, this shows bright acid and medium/light tannins. Red and black cherries topped with pepper, violets and baking spices. So fun and juicy but surprisingly complex. (90 points)

2012 Briceland Vineyards Noir D'Orleans Ishi Pishi Ranch - California, North Coast, Humboldt County
Smells of dark plums and currants topped in loam and spicy clove. Rich but fresh, tart and vibrant, structured nicely with firm tannins. Bright black currant and crunchy plums and notes of peppercorns, roasted red pepper, loamy earth and spiced coffee. Seems like a good one to bury for a few years. Dominated by Petit Verdot, with some other Bordeaux varieties. For those tired of heavy, oak-slathered California Bordeaux reds, try this zesty number. (90 points)

If you're interested, I put together a four-minute GoPro video of my surf adventures here: 


Sunday, August 7, 2016

Cali Reds for Summertime Grilling

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

It’s the dog days of summer in the mid-Atlantic, and it’s been hot and humid for as long as I can remember. When I’m done pounding H20 all day long, I generally uncork bubbles or whites or pink wine.

That said, if you’re firing up a grill, red wines should probably be involved, no matter the weather conditions. I recently tasted through a wide array of California red wines that should pair nicely with summertime meals, parties and grill-outs. From Petite Sirah to Zin blends to Rhone reds, there are some goodies in this report, many of which are reasonably priced. 

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind. 


2014 Chronic Cellars Purple Paradise - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $15
Medium ruby color. Jammy aromas of currants, plums and blackberries along with cola and coffee. Full and juicy with fleshy tannins and low acidity. A bold presence with saucy blueberry and jammy blackberries, backed up by cola, vanilla (lots of it) and caramel. High deliciousness factor for those with a Paso Robles sweet tooth predilection. 77% Zinfandel, 14% Syrah, 8% Petite Sirah, 1% Grenache. (85 points)


2014 Chronic Cellars Petite Sirah Suite Petite - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $16
Deep purple color. Smells of rick blackberries, plum skins, blueberry concentrate, some roasted red pepper and vanilla as well. Full and chewy on the palate with some structure in the tannic grip, low acid makes this feel a bit heavy, but the flavors are delish: blackberry, blueberry, boysenberry jam. I also get some toasted coconut, mocha and crème brulee. Tasty stuff. Includes 15% Petite Sirah. (85 points)


2014 Chronic Cellars Sofa King Bueno - California, Central Coast, Paso RoblesSRP: $22
Vibrant purple color. Smells of roasted plums, blueberry and raspberry jam, along with sweet coffee and vanilla. Full-bodied and saucy with moderate tannic structure and low acidity. Dense plums, blackberries and blueberries, the fruit is jammy and rich and laced with smoke, black pepper glaze, milk chocolate, coffee. A bit candied and chewy in style but good amount of deliciousness. A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Petite Sirah, Mourvedre and Tannat. (85 points)


2012 Oso Libre Zinfandel Osezno - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $38
Medium ruby color. Smells like a spicy mix of pepper, clove and all spice on top of juicy plums and red cherry fruit with notes of maple and brown sugar. Full-bodied on the palate but not heavy, this has a waxy feel to it with fleshy tannins and medium acidity. A cool mix of black and red cherries with roasted figs and dates. Interesting blend of maple and roasted chestnut elements with spicy clove and nutmeg, and this makes for a fun spice rack of flavors. Stays clean, not too hot, with impressive balance and complexity. From the La Vista Vineyard in Adelaida, this Zin is aged 20 months in new Hungarian and old French oak. (90 points) 


2012 Oso Libre Nativo - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $45
Light ruby color. More floral on the nose than the Osezno Zinfandel, with roses and violets on top of juicy raspberries, red apples, wild strawberry, topped in some sage and pepper. Full but so velvety and silky on the palate, smooth tannin frams the medium acidity. Red apple and juicy cherries mix with darker plum notes, while the fruit is juicy and vibrant it’s not jam jar in the slightest. I get complex waves of roasted chestnut, allspice, tar, rhubarb, rose hips. Full of flavor but so bright, refined, even, although this could develop with time in the cellar. 100% Primitivo (Italian clone of Zinfandel), this wine is aged 20 months in new Hungarian and old French oak. (91 points) 


2013 Edmeades Winery Edmeades' Folly - California, Mendocino County
SRP: $26
Bright purple color. Aromas of black cherries, gushing blackberry, cassis — a dark, loamy, iron-rich note, like charcoal and tar mixed with dark coffee, toasted coconut and cedar shavings. A concentrated wine on the palate, with dusty tannic structure and medium-low acidity. Juicy black cherries and blueberries, covered in dark chocolate and some espresso. Sweet vanilla and charcoal, coffee and caramel sauce make this a bold a lush wine. Rich, saucy, bold, sure this is delicious but it’s also pretty complex and structured. A blend of Zinfandel with 23% Syrah, 15% Merlot and 15% Petite Sirah aged in 15% new American and French oak. (88 points)  


2013 Edmeades Winery Petite Sirah - California, Mendocino County
SRP: $35
Purple pitch colored. Deep and saucy aromatics with dense blueberry and boysenberry jam, also some vanilla, milk chocolate, charcoal pit and espresso. Full-bodied and chewy on the palate, some grit to the tannins, medium-low acidity. Blackberry, blueberry jam, mixes with espresso, dark chocolate, graphite, vanilla and charred wood. A bold and extracted wine but it’s structured well and could stand up to a big-ass steak or a few years in the cellar, or both. Includes 7% Zinfandel, this spends 15% new French oak, and 85% used French and American oak. (88 points) 


2013 Murrieta's Well The Spur - California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley
SRP: $30
Smells sweet and juicy, dark but floral, with black and red berry fruit laced with smoke, herbs, dark chocolate and red licorice. Dusty-light tannins on the palate, some moderate acidity, this is a medium-full-bodied wine with a chewy, fruit-driven structure. Black cherries and currants mix with blueberry jam, and the fruit is touched with chocolate shavings, sweet barbecue sauce and some leafy, spicy elements. Fun stuff for the price. A blend of Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. (86 points) 


2013 Murphy-Goode Zinfandel Liar's Dice - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $21
Light purple color. Smells of sweet cherries, candied raspberries, strawberry jam – along with some cocoa powder, pepper and sweet cola. Full-bodied, some moderate acid, light tannins but a chewy mouthfeel. Flavors of sweet cherries, raspberries and red currant jam, the fruit is juicy and ripe but also shows a bit of tartness. Roasted chestnuts, sweet cola, cedar and coffee notes add some complexity. Fun stuff for early consumption; bring on the grilled food. Includes 4% Petite Sirah, this is aged 10 months in mostly American oak. (86 points)